Planning visits and stops for 18 days in Cambodia
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Original post
MA
Hi everyone! I’ve booked flights to Phnom Penh for August 26 (no layover in the Emirates as a precaution...). We arrive on Sunday, August 2 in the morning and leave on August 19 around 9 PM (also from Phnom Penh). We’re a couple traveling with three kids aged 9 to 16. Among the many questions I have about our itinerary, a few are standing out: If we arrive in Phnom Penh exhausted, I imagine we’ll need to stay one night there before heading to Siem Reap... but how much time should we spend there to enjoy Angkor in good conditions? Then, Mondulkiri or Battambang? (Because I don’t want it to be a total rush, changing accommodation every two days and praying that bus transfers or private drivers go as planned...). Where does Tonlé Sap Lake fit into all this? And if we end with a beach stay: is Koh Rong a must, or is there another spot? Also, what about the return logistics: should we spend the night before our flight in Phnom Penh to be safe... or do we do everything on August 19... like taking a boat and then the road from Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh, risking missing our flight if anything goes wrong? Anyway, a huge thank you in advance for your valuable tips and feedback!
ER Erwanploz Regular ·
Hi there,

Spending the first night in Phnom Penh is a good idea to recover from the long trip. And hiring a private driver the next morning to get to Siem Reap won’t be much more expensive than buying five bus tickets—around 70 €, I think. Alternatively, you could take a night bus to arrive in Siem Reap early in the morning and avoid wasting the morning on the road. Siem Reap is a really pleasant city that deserves at least 4 days, including three full mornings to visit the Angkor temples. A day trip to Phnom Kulen could also be interesting. From Siem Reap, you can spend half a day on the Tonlé Sap exploring a stilted and/or floating village. That said, you could also pass through several floating villages and observe life on the lake and along the Sangker River by taking the boat from Siem Reap to Battambang. Battambang or Mondolkiri? Personally, I prefer the second option, especially since the hilly landscapes around Sen Monorom are stunning during the rainy season. But it’s a bit out of the way for your itinerary: you’d need to go from PP to Sen Monorom (6h) and then Sen Monorom to Siem Reap (10h by bus), or break up the trip with a stop in Kampong Cham on the Mekong River. Kampong Cham is a lovely stop I highly recommend! If you go PP → SR → Battambang, a private car can then take you to Sihanoukville to catch the boat to Koh Rong. It’s a full-day trip and can now be done through the Cardamom Mountains via the new N10 road from Battambang to Koh Kong to Sihanoukville. It’s hard to give an exact duration since it’s so new, but the scenery is amazing. The other option is the classic route via Phnom Penh or slightly west of PP through Kampong Speu (if you have a private vehicle). I’d advise leaving Koh Rong the day before your return flight because boat connections between Koh Rong and Sihanoukville can be suspended this time of year if the weather’s bad, and travelers can end up stranded on the island for 24 hours. But you can always change plans last minute if the weather’s calm and leave Koh Rong the morning of your flight. Even with a breakdown or multiple delays, you’d still make it to the airport in time for your 9 PM flight. Weather-wise, August is the rainy season, but it’s not too bothersome—mostly short storms that cool things down in the late afternoon or at night, while the days are usually sunny. And these storms don’t happen every day; some years, you might go two weeks in August without a drop of rain! On the islands, it’s generally wetter, but you could still have sunshine the whole time or, conversely, rain for several days.
NO Noirenvoyage Regular ·
Hi Vanessa,

To add to the previous perfectly correct answer, I’d also suggest that in Siem Reap you shouldn’t miss Banteay Srey, the "temple of women," but also the Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre, where you can visit a conservation project for butterflies.

18 days is a bit short, otherwise I would’ve suggested a stop in Kampot before heading to the islands of Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem.

As mentioned above, allow some extra time for your return since the sea has its own schedule, and you might get stuck on the island due to the weather.

Happy travels!
Voyager Autrement est Possible Un Voyage à votre image Voyages en immersion et éco-responsables
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hello,

If you arrive in Phnom Penh exhausted, I imagine you’ll have to stay overnight anyway before moving on to (...) the return organization: the day before the flight to be sure... so another night in Phnom Penh...

?? Phnom Penh deserves more than the 2x1 transit nights you’re planning. Personally, I’ve never been able to stay fewer than 5 nights each of the 5 times I’ve been there. On the way in, you could, for example, be in Siem Reap by the evening of your arrival day, but at the end of your trip, I’d recommend spending at least 3 nights in Phnom Penh before your flight.

Siem Reap... but how much time should we spend there to enjoy Angkor in good conditions?

A minimum of 3 days to visit Angkor + at least 1 "rest day" to break up the 3 days for Angkor, since visiting it can be tiring. You could use that day, for example, to visit a village on the Tonlé Sap. That brings your stay to a minimum of 5 nights in Siem Reap, but planning 6 or 7 wouldn’t be a bad idea so you can also visit some interesting ruins a bit farther away.

Then Mondulkiri or Battambang? (...) ... and where does the Tonlé Lake fit into all this?

During the boat trip you shouldn’t miss between Siem Reap and Battambang.

and pray that bus transfers or driver arrangements go as planned...

We’re not in the 80s anymore—you don’t have to worry about that kind of thing in today’s Cambodia.

and what about the return organization: the day before the flight to be sure... so another night in Phnom Penh... or do we do everything on 19/8... boat then road between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh... at the risk of missing the flight if something goes wrong?

After reading my first answer, you shouldn’t have to ask that question anymore.

6 nights in Siem Reap, 3 in Battambang, let’s say 4 at the beach, 3 in Phnom Penh to finish, and you still have 1 night left to add wherever you like in the above. That keeps your travel timing on track while avoiding the "stress of changing your stay every 2 days".
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
6 nights in Siem Reap, 3 in Battambang, let's say 4 at the beach, 3 in Phnom Penh to finish, and you still have 1 night left to add wherever you want in the above. This keeps the trip timing intact while avoiding "the stress of changing accommodation every 2 days"

I agree with the timing—Phnom Penh deserves more than just a stopover, if only for the vibe. In my travel journal (see profile), there’s a great place to stay there, especially with teens (pool included).

For transport, buses and vans are reliable.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust
MA Mary75116 ·
Thanks so much, really!
MA Mary75116 ·
It's much clearer now!

I still have one unknown: the transit between Battambang and Sihanoukville (boat to Koh Rong). Overnight sleeper bus to avoid losing a travel day... but with 5 people, including 2 who are almost 6'3"... how does that work? A daytime trip to enjoy the scenery via the new national road... but it's still really long... or a stop a little past the halfway point... which initially appealed to me, but I can't find a concrete option. Accommodation spots are rare and very expensive (Canvas Orchid, Rainbow Lodge... Tatai Resort, plus reviews for the last two showing they're overpriced compared to the upkeep of the places and the food quality—I'm not obsessed about this, but it seems silly to "waste" a significant chunk of the budget for one night at a place we won't have time to fully enjoy on this trip...). Anyway, I'll keep researching to find options outside the mainstream web circuits... but I'd love to hear thoughts from those who've already been there! ;-) Thanks in advance!
ER Erwanploz Regular ·
The overnight bus is an interesting option (with a stop/change of bus in Phnom Penh) to arrive early in the morning in Sihanoukville, but from what I remember, the bunks aren’t very long, and someone who’s 1.90m tall will have to contort a bit to sleep comfortably! Plus, five tickets end up costing more than making the trip by taxi.

There’s also the option of stopping in Phnom Penh for an afternoon + one night and continuing to Sihanoukville the next morning. By taxi, by bus (5-6h from Battambang), or even by train (departure from Battambang at 3 PM, arrival in Phnom Penh at 10:30 PM). The next day, the PP–Sihanoukville trip takes 2.5h via the new highway.

Either way, that’s a lot of hours on the road! !
FL FloAsie ·
Hey! First off, hats off for the planning—August is *rough*, but you’ve got this. Here’s what I’ve picked up hanging around the area.

First, yeah, one night in Phnom Penh is a must after a 20-hour flight. You’ll be wiped. Grab a nice hotel in Riverside, rest up, then head to Siem Reap the next day.

For Angkor, personally, I’d say minimum 3 days, no joke. Not to stress you out, but with 3 kids in tow, one day’s too light, two days is tight, and three days is when it starts feeling *right*. You’ll catch sunrise at the temples, explore without rushing, and the kids will actually enjoy it. I’ve seen families try to cram it into one day… not a great memory, trust me.

Now, about the next stop—here’s the real talk: skip Mondulkiri with the family. It’s amazing, but it’s a 4-hour bone-rattling drive, barely any kid-friendly infrastructure, and honestly, what you’ll gain is mostly exhaustion. Battambang’s a way better call. It’s a smooth 3-hour ride from Siem Reap, the town’s charming, you can check out the caves, the Bamboo Train (kids *love* it), and it’s not touristy at all.

For Tonlé Sap, I’d say max 2 days—like a day trip from Siem Reap with a guide. Just double-check the timing in August, though; water levels vary a lot depending on the season.

So, my suggested route: Phnom Penh (1 night) > Siem Reap (3-4 nights) > Battambang (2-3 nights) > back to PP (1 night before your flight). That gives you breathing room, no stress, and the kids won’t lose it from changing hotels every two days.

Any questions about Battambang or anything else?
Flo — Expat Bangkok depuis 2019 · Thaïlande, Vietnam, Cambodge, Bali · Je réponds sur le budget, les visas et la logistique terrain
ER Erwanploz Regular ·
Hey Flo,

Which 4 hours of rough road are you talking about for Mondolkiri? I go there by motorbike from time to time, and the road is pretty decent for Cambodia—whether it's from Phnom Penh to Snuol, Kampong Cham to Snuol, or even the last stretch Snuol–Sen Monorom, even if the road gets a bit damaged just before Keo Seima. From Kratie to Snuol, the road is even excellent. And if you come from the north (Ratanakiri), the road is perfect and empty. The real issue is that they're not dual carriageways, so you often get stuck behind trucks and crawl along at 50-60 km/h! 😅
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hey! First off, kudos for the planning—August is *scorching*, but you’ve got this. Here’s what I noticed while hanging around the area.

First, yes, one night in Phnom Penh is a must after a 20-hour flight. You’ll be wiped. Book a nice hotel in Riverside, rest up, and then head to Siem Reap the next day.

For Angkor, personally, I’d say minimum 3 days, no joke. Not to stress you out, but with three kids in tow, one day is *way* too short, two days is tight, and three days is when it starts feeling relaxed. You’ll catch sunrise at the temples, explore without rushing, and the kids will actually enjoy it. I’ve seen families try to cram it into one day… not a great memory, trust me.

Now, about your next stop—here’s the honest truth: skip Mondulkiri with kids. It’s amazing, but it’s a 4-hour bone-rattling drive, barely any kid-friendly infrastructure, and what you’ll gain is mostly exhaustion. Battambang, though? Way better. It’s a smooth 3-hour ride from Siem Reap, the town’s charming, you can check out the caves, the Bamboo Train (kids *love* it), and it’s not touristy at all.

For Tonlé Sap, I’d say max 2 days—like a day trip from Siem Reap with a guide. Just double-check the timing in August, though; water levels vary a lot depending on the season.

Anyway, here’s my suggested itinerary: Phnom Penh (1 night) > Siem Reap (3-4 nights) > Battambang (2-3 nights) > back to PP (1 night before your flight). That gives you breathing room, no stress, and the kids won’t freak out from changing hotels every two days.

Any questions about Battambang or anything else?

Same note as Thailand: if you ever go to Cambodia, *don’t* follow your own advice and recommendations.
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi Erwan,

Hey Flo,

For the past few days, he’s been flooding us with incorrect info about Southeast Asia, proving that his supposed experience, profile, and signature are fake.

https://voyageforum.com/forum/ere-conseils-voyage-entre-ia-forums-gratuits-expertise-locale-d10788202/:

The silent infiltration of forums Free travel forums have gradually become marketing hunting grounds. Under the guise of "experienced travelers," tourism professionals, commission-seeking affiliates, or aspiring influencers testing monetization strategies now hide. These fake profiles master the community’s codes. They build credibility by answering dozens of basic questions before subtly slipping in their paid recommendations.

Several details suggest it’s actually a Vietnamese agency.
ER Erwanploz Regular ·
Oh, got it, that makes more sense now—thanks, Thierry!

That first sentence—"August is *so* hot"—had me confused, coming from someone who supposedly lives in Bangkok and should know the difference between the scorching heat of April and the much milder climate of early August. 😉 Same thing when I reread their other message about Cambodia: I was thrown off by them saying they go there 3-4 times a year ("it’s kinda my backyard," they wrote) but somehow not knowing the Thailand/Cambodia land border has been closed since last June! And then 24 messages posted in 24 different threads—like they’re casting a line everywhere hoping for a bite! !
SO Songsam Veteran ·
someone supposedly living in Bangkok

From the first day of their registration, they claimed in three replies—supposedly to build credibility—that they’ve been in Thailand since 2021, even though their signature says 2019...

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11466293#11466293 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11466294#11466294 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11466296#11466296

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