Do you think India has changed over the last 15 years?

Hi there,

The debate is open—no animosity or arguments if opinions differ. Let’s try to be objective, though it’s not easy.

Of course, India is close to your heart, and we only speak well of what we know... But this discussion could extend to other destinations, gain depth, and become richer if we broadened it... and it would fit perfectly in the "Travelers' Reflections" section.

Like the prince’s kiss to wake the Sleeping Beauty [:)]

Hello,

It all depends on how you see it

Personally, I see it as noise, color, a huge mess, a fair of everything and anything.

Poverty, opulence, filth, beauty, high tech, and no drinking water.

The impossibility of being alone, the crowds, a burst of energy but also eternal nonchalance. A people incomprehensible to a fundamentally rational soul.

Dishes full of flavor, foods you don’t want to know the taste of, traveler’s diarrhea...

I’ve been to India five times, maybe five months in total. From the mid-90s to the early 2010s.

From the very touristy (Rajasthan, Varanasi, Goa, Pondicherry...) to the much less so (Bhopal, Hyderabad, Gujarat...).

Often by car with a driver, some train trips, rarely by bus.

Mostly in a certain opulence—the maharajah’s palace was (and still is) very accessible—but also a few stops where, for lack of better options, you had to make do with what was available.

My feeling is that India hasn’t changed.

It remains as described, and the travel journals I read, the photos I see, don’t show me a different picture.

Sure, there are more local tourists than before, prices have gone up, smartphones have appeared in every hand, and India has its own Silicon Valley.

But still, I won’t be feeling like I’m in Switzerland or Norway when traveling in India anytime soon...

To broaden the perspective to other destinations, I’d say India is one of the few developing countries that has this effect on me.

Expanding on the topic mentioned in another discussion by Kate about "what’s bad for the tourist can be progress for the locals" (like a dirt track turned into tarmac), that’s absolutely true. But that doesn’t stop travelers who knew the place before from feeling nostalgic...

That’s why it’s sometimes better to avoid returning to places that evoke dazzling memories, especially when they were still off the tourist trail.

I think that’s maybe what draws us in! It’s seeing what doesn’t change, what endures through the centuries—this timelessness of India. Those contrasts Attila mentioned, I feel them too, and they comfort and satisfy me. I first went in 2005 and then made four more trips of 2–3 months each. I still find the same things. I’m happy for Indians that their conveniences are improving, because every people deserves a more comfortable life 😊

Hi everyone,

This is an interesting topic I’d love to address in a much more detailed and well-reasoned way, but time forces me to keep this short and superficial.

I’ve been traveling to India since 2007 and developed such a passion for the country that I spent 7 years studying it at university, conducting sociological fieldwork, and 17 years exploring it simply for the joy of discovery. I returned this summer after a 6-year break, and while trying to write about this trip in my travel journal, I found myself reflecting on this very question as I drafted a sort of preamble.

On one hand, I agree with Attila and Minadeaca that there’s a cultural core in India that doesn’t change and remains present with every visit. Yes, the chaos, the colors—even if that can feel like a somewhat superficial observation. I don’t mean this negatively but in the most literal sense: it’s what we notice first about Indian society, the image our Western traveler’s imagination expects to see, and indeed, India still delivers on that front. And that’s perfectly fine if that’s all you’re looking for.

But I completely share Marien’s perspective. When you dig deeper and step back a bit, India has changed a lot. It’s following its own unique path in the world’s evolution—not always for the better, mind you. I also agree with Minadeaca that these changes have brought modern conveniences and slightly less poverty, which I’ve witnessed firsthand, though the improvements are still limited and far from universal.

I’d love to expand on this, and I hope to do so in my travel journal if I ever finish it. Beyond the conveniences and the occasional better roads, it’s the mindset of the new generation that’s shifting. They’re drifting further from their roots, embracing a kind of Indian-style globalism where the middle and upper classes delude themselves into thinking India has become almost as developed and "clean" as the West: "It’s not like before—we have clean neighborhoods, we pay for our chai with a banking app on our smartphones, we now have our TGV and even sent a satellite into space. We’re a superpower now, as Modi says!" That’s what my friends and the Indian comments I read online keep saying. Without realizing that all of this only applies to maybe 20% of the population, while the rest of the country is still deeply entrenched in the colors, dirt, disorder, poverty, caste system, train accidents, and the ever-more horrifying rapes and honor crimes that continue to fascinate and baffle Western travelers.

I partly agree with the opinions shared by the contributors above.

Over the past thirty years, I’ve visited India 10 times, with my last trip in Oct-Nov 2023. Back in 2012, my wife and I decided to travel to the country by road in a camper van—a year-long journey to immerse ourselves in the real India, the kind of places tourists don’t usually go. Visiting the country so often tends to blur the changes over time. Between the 90s and today, of course, quite a few things have changed, and not always for the better. Far from the tourist trails, rural India hasn’t experienced the same rapid transformations as the big cities. Hitting the road in central India in 2024 doesn’t reveal many real changes—it feels like, aside from mobile phones, very little has evolved in the remote areas. I agree with Pagaljavab when he says that fundamental changes likely only affect about 20% of the population. That said, I have a special connection to this country, and every visit feels like a new adventure.

Hello everyone,

I wanted to respond to Attila, with whom I completely agree, but we’re not quite on the same wavelength. What I mean is that we don’t have the same evaluation criteria.

Pagaljavab’s reply is perfect. I couldn’t have answered as well, or as "scientifically." I refrained from responding because I realize I’m too emotionally involved to be objective, despite what I’d written.

Let me explain. What Attila describes—especially in her blog (from 2012!)—which she linked and I read very carefully, is the absolute reality of India. But even though she tells it with a lot of humor and a touch of irony, I can’t help but interpret it as mockery toward Indians. I live too closely with Indians to not know how sensitive they are, and if they read all that—especially her travel journal on her blog—they’d be extremely hurt and humiliated by the idea that someone is making fun of them.

I’ve used that same style, that kind of humor and descriptions myself. And to this day, I’m deeply ashamed of it.

I’m a bit like my daughter, who knows her kids’ flaws and biggest faults, can complain about them, call them out, or even make fun of them herself—but can’t stand the slightest criticism from others about her children, even if it’s completely accurate and justified.

Especially since many Indians are making huge efforts to change the image Western travelers have of them...

I couldn’t argue like Pagaljavab does (and asks). At best, I could make a non-exhaustive list of everything I notice in my daily life. But it’s this long list of small, everyday details that, when put together, make me say that India has changed a lot. I’m particularly thinking about the arrogance of young Indians and their disdain for Westerners, especially those who’ve had some education. It’s a bit like they’re taking revenge, almost 80 years later, for all the humiliations the English inflicted on them.

They’re convinced of their own greatness and superiority, and they make sure we feel it—and it’s pretty unpleasant to live with on a daily basis. Especially since they’re right about our own sense of superiority toward India, even as we’re in full decline.

I used to live happily in India, like a fish in water, and now I feel more and more unwelcome and in a very uncomfortable position.

Help, Pagal, you’ll say it better than I can.

I can’t help but interpret it as mockery toward Indians. I live too closely with Indians to not know how infinitely sensitive they are, and if they read all this—especially his travel journal on his blog—they’d be extremely mortified and humiliated that people are making fun of them.

This journal is one of the first I ever wrote. It was published on VF before COVID.

There were so many travel journals going on and on about the wonders of India—monumental or natural wonders, real or idealized spiritual marvels. These journals were filled with photos.

A few rare dissenting voices, but they were more focused on the food, the grime, the unbearable poverty for those who’ve never left Western comfort.

Why rewrite what already existed, I thought?

Plus, I was visiting places that weren’t very touristy. Maybe it wasn’t worth advertising them just to turn them into the next Rajasthan.

There was also a playful side to it. Could you guess the stages of a trip just from words?

I’m naturally a bit of a tease. I love laughter, joy, every shade of conversation.

The target audience was probably more the India-obsessed than Indians themselves...

If Indians feel humiliated or mortified, it’s because deep down, they recognize themselves in this journal.

You’ve got to be able to laugh at yourself.

As long as you can’t accept caricature, you’re far from nirvana...

Just my two cents.[;]

I really enjoyed reading this travel journal. And I recognized India so well—I often laughed remembering similar experiences.

There were many journals explaining at length the wonders of India, whether monumental, natural, or spiritual—real or idealized. These journals were filled with photos.

A few rare dissenting voices, but more focused on the food, the grime, the unbearable poverty for those who’ve never left Western comfort.

Why rewrite what already exists, I thought?

I completely understand the approach.

And then, I was visiting places that weren’t very touristy. Maybe it wasn’t worth advertising them so they wouldn’t turn into another Rajasthan.

I totally agree with that, and I do the same. A lot of travelers still don’t realize that raving about an unknown place is the worst thing you can do to it.

After that, I’m naturally a bit mocking. I love laughter, joy, and all the nuances of a conversation.

Yeah, I know that about you.

If some Indians feel humiliated or mortified, it’s because deep down, they recognize themselves in this journal.

Of course... And so?

You have to know how to laugh at yourself.

Laughing at yourself is one thing, but seeing others laugh at you is entirely different. Laughing at yourself can be a defense... Laughing so you don’t cry.

As long as you don’t feel capable of accepting caricature, you’re far from nirvana... That’s just my point of view.[;)

Phew! You reassure me—I thought it was a sweeping statement...[;)

Of course... So what?

seeing others laugh at you is a whole different thing

You’ve got to accept yourself with your flaws and qualities...

It’s not looking good with Modi, who’s stirring up the worst in India as a true nationalist populist.

Things are off to a bad start with Modi, who’s riling up the worst in India—just your typical nationalist populist.

That’s exactly what I’ve been trying to say about India’s shift. Modi’s the Messiah, the Savior of India—soon we’ll be calling him Mahatma Modi. With a heavy heart, I’m heading for the exit, bound for Thailand... but it’s not a sure thing.

Yeah, it’s definitely not a sure thing. Not sure Thailand doesn’t beat India when it comes to ramped-up nationalism.

Good luck with your future choices.

Yeah, it’s not looking great.

I meant for me... That I manage to make up my mind to leave India for good, at least for a long while. It’s a passionate thing. It’s like in a relationship when you know you’re heading straight for disaster by staying together even though nothing’s working anymore. But love...

Not sure Thailand’s any better than India when it comes to rampant nationalism.

That’s what I discovered when I decided to go to Thailand...

Good luck with your future choices.

Thanks

I had found some time to write a long reply about this very topic, but it got deleted... Oh well, maybe I’ll try again later if I feel up to it... But overall, everyone’s already said it all.

I had found some time to write a long reply that was actually about this, but it got erased...

This page-erasing issue keeps happening. That’s what I was explaining to François Bouchet, who was asking Solène how she loses her text... I think this discussion might interest you if you haven’t read it yet.

Oh well, maybe I’ll try again later if I feel up to it... But in broad strokes, everyone’s already said it all.

Too bad, but I’m the same way—when I’ve written a long post and it suddenly disappears, I rarely have the energy to start over.

I’ve had everything disappear even at the start of VF.

I feel like it happened when I took too long to post the message (usually while writing travel journals...).

It also happened when I accidentally hit a key.

What are you both writing on?

I think with a real computer, the chances of making a wrong move are lower. With a phone, tablet, or smartphone, a wrong gesture happens so fast! !

Here on my phone, but at least this time I understood why it got deleted. It took me a while to write my message, and when I sent it, I was disconnected. After logging back in with my username and password, I went back to the message, but the text was gone. This isn’t the first time it’s happened.

Hey,

I agree with Attila—it’s better to use a computer when you’ve got a long post to write. Phones or tablets work in a pinch for short texts, but things can crash anytime. When I’m on my iPad, I type my message somewhere else besides VF because I’ve lost too many posts before hitting send! !

I once had everything erased, even in the early days of VF.

Yes, it has nothing to do with the site reopening. It's a configuration issue from when it was built. Other sites have this problem, others don’t. In those cases, you return to the page where you left off, and it’s very convenient.

It also used to happen because of an accidentally pressed key.

Yes, it’s usually when you change pages either on purpose or by mistake—when your finger slips. I’m not talking about the cause because I generally know why I changed pages. What I regret is that when you go back, the text you’d typed earlier is erased.

What are you both writing on?

I always use a computer. I hate browsing the web on my phone. I can’t see anything—it’s too small, even though I chose the biggest screen possible. And for photos, it’s terrible if you like looking at beautiful pictures. Navigation is also much less comfortable than on a computer.

A wrong move happens fast!

Even with a keyboard and mouse, at a certain age... [;)]. My mouse is ultra-sensitive, and my finger often slips...