Parmi les nombreuses merveilles que recélent le Vietnam , un de mes coups de cœur
s'adresse tout particuliérement à la Baie d’Halong terrestre située à proximité de Ninh Binh/Tam Coc .
J' ai decouvert cet endroit en 2008 et j' y suis retourné derniérement , prenant à chaque fois un grand plaisir à parcourir ses alentours.
Cette region s'etalant entre Tam Coc , Trang An, Hoa Lu est tres jolie et il est vraiment dommage que de nombreux visiteurs n'y fassent qu un saut rapide pour la journée ou n y consacrent qu'un ou deux jours.
L' adorable petite receptionniste Than de l' hotel Le Duc Tuan de Tam Coc ayant quitté cet hotel suite à
son mariage , je suis allé dormir " Chez LOAN" , alléché par les commentaires enthousiastes, elogieux lus sur Voyageforum , et qui s'avérent totalement justifiés.
Loan secondée par son mari Baé est une vietnamienne absolument adorable , en permanence aux petits soins pour ses clients .
Alors voici un petit guide qui permettra aux visiteurs pressés d'entreprendre quelques jolies ballades à bicyclette , sans difficulté majeure car le terrain est plat
mais se révèle tape-cul sur certaines sections .
Mon point de depart est l'hotel " Chez Loan", situé à la sortie de Tam Coc sur la route conduisant à la pagode Bich Dong , un bon kilométre apres
l'embarcadére principal au centre de la bourgade .
Loan met à votre disposition des velos pour entreprendre ces promenades.
Elle denichera des petites motocyclettes pour les moins courageux.
Ballade N°1 : ( agréable, facile et necessite peu de temps )
En sortant de chez Loan tourner à droite direction la pagode Bich Dong .( beaucoup de visiteurs )
La route se termine dans un cul de sac ou vous attendent des vendeuses et leurs etals destinés aux touristes .
Une centaine de metres avant ce cul de sac et apres que la route se resserre dans un etranglement entre deux rochers ,
emprunter la petite route betonnée qui part à gauche .
Un peu plus loin sur votre gauche , un petit pont enjambe le fossé . Franchissez le , et suivez la petite route etroite longeant un piton à votre droite ,
quelques chevreaux seront peut etre en train de gambader sur ses pentes .
Derriere se cache une jolie petite pagode ou vous devriez rencontrer peu de visiteurs .
De temps un temps un groupe de touristes vietnamiens s'y rend en cheminant à pied depuis Bich Dong .
Derriere cette pagode il y a apparemment possibilité de monter à une petite grotte .
Revenir au pont et tourner à gauche en laissant Bich Dong derriére soi .
Vous serez peut-etre héler par des rameuses , à proximité se trouve un petit embarcadére discret .
La route serpente à travers un defilé , bordée à sa gauche par un large fossé rempli d'eau .
A la sortie du defilé , aller toujours tout droit , à votre droite surgit une sorte de cirque avec rizieres , entouré de pitons et
quelques rares habitations dispersées ici et là.
En fait cet itineraire va vous faire decrire une boucle à l interieur .
Attention : sur la gauche se trouve une piste avec une barriére + espéce de cabane vide .Ne vous y engagez pas .
Je pense qu'elle aboutit au penitencier pour femmes dont on devine les murs à travers la vegetation .
Ne faites pas comme Jacques " Larsay" qui , pour anecdote , avait atterri en plein dans leur camp de travail en suivant un autre itineraire .
D’où quelques explications à fournir aux "autorités" et quelques frissons vus les regards concupiscents de toutes ces dames & demoiselles
privées de compagnon .
La route se transforme en piste puis devient un chemin cahoteux .
Peut-etre serez vous arretés au ... péage "Bonbon " :Des jeunes enfants surgissent parfois pour en reclamer .
Un bambin haut comme trois pommes s'était planté résolument devant ma roue et pas impressionné du tout par mon bon
metre quatre vingt m'en reclamait un d'un ton ferme , le regard farouche .
Voilà un futur chef en herbe ??
Lorsque la boucle entame son retour vers l entrée du cirque , un petit chemin part à gauche mais en fait debouche
sur une petite pagode en refection sans grand interet . Le chemin principal s'elargit en une piste vous ramenant au niveau du defilé.
Reprendre à gauche pour regagner le cul de sac de Bich Dong .
La ballade est facilement faisable en deux heures , visite des pagodes incluse .
Ballade N°2 : ( c'est la plus belle mais plus eloignée)
De chez Loan , tourner à gauche pour retourner au centre de Tam Coc et à partir de la place des embarcadères prendre la longue ligne droite qui
améne à la route principale pour Ninh Binh .
Un gros village se trouve à gauche , guetter le panneau de sens interdit planté dans le terre plein central
et rejoindre la "route " qui court parallélement à cette ligne droite , vous y serez plus tranquilles .
Attention en traversant , les arbustes du terre plein central masquent les vehicules qui peuvent arriver lancés à toute allure .
Continuer tout droit jusqu'à atteindre la rue betonnée , partant à gauche qui traverse le bourg .
Prendre cette rue et maintenant , fastoche , c'est toujours tout droit pendant des kms !
A la sortie du bourg apparaissent des riziéres et un petit cimetiere .
A gauche les pitons de Tam Coc , à droite Ninh Binh se devine dans le lointain et en face de vous
se dresse la barriére de pitons derriére laquelle se blottit Hoa Lu .
Pour l'instant le coin est quelconque , les " merveilles" vous attendent plus loin .
La piste aborde une butte en fait un ponceau. .
Coté gauche , passé ce ponceau vous allez apercevoir une piste menant aux pitons et au flanc de ceux-ci , ainsi qu' un escalier
de 450 marches . Il monte à l'observatoire de Hang Mua coiffé d'un pagodon sous lequel est edifié une statue de la Vierge ..
Si vous souhaitez y monter , passer sous la barriére , la cabane adjacente etant souvent inoccupée , aller à la maison toute proche habitée par un gentil couple de gardiens agés.
Entrée = 20 000 dongs par personne . Confiez leur votre vélo pendant la durée de la grimpette .
Si le temps est vraiment brumeux , s'epargner la montée , vous ne verrez pas grand-chose comme cela a été mon cas .
La riviére en contrebas était visible mais coté Ninh Binh que du brouillard .
Retour à la route ( piste) principale . Traverser les deux villages consecutifs , le second est moins important .
La piste se termine au niveau d'une grande route toute large decrivant un arc de cercle .
Arrivé à cet endroit 3 options s'offrent à vous .
A/ Traverser la route et prendre la piste juste en face .
Elle vous méne à la jolie petite pagode de Ban Long.
De là rejoindre l'option B , la route passant tout pres.
B/ Prendre la route principale en courbe vers la gauche .
Pas mal de motocyclettes , bus , minibus de touristes l'empruntent suivant l heure et le jour mais
comme elle est large pas grand-chose à craindre .
Au bout d'un kilométre vous allez apercevoir un grand batiment avec toit typique coté gauche et un grand parking
coté droit .
Vous etes arrivés à Trang An , embarcadére aussi fréquenté sinon plus que celui de Tam Coc .
Les touristes sont majoritairement vietnamiens .Toutes les rameuses sont vetues d'une veste bleu ciel .
Continuer la route tout droit . vous apercevez le va et vient des barques coté gauche .
La route disparait dans un tunnel que je n ai pas emprunté . Sans lumiére , je ne souhaitais pas risquer ma peau
connaissant les fous du volant qui opérent dans le pays .
Et selon les informations obtenues ulterieurement , il aurait été vraiment imprudent de s'y engager .
Avant le tunnel , coté gauche une piste vous améne au bord de la riviére aux rameuses.
On apercoit un debarcadére un peu plus loin menant à ce qui semble etre une grotte .
L'endroit va vraisemblablement changer vu la presence d'engins de chantier .
Retour à la grande route toujours avant l' entrée du tunnel , mais coté opposé :
Deux panneaux sont plantés au niveau de la route avec les indications suivantes en rouge :" Ba Cua " et" Ban Quan , Bac San Dé Nui"
A droite en contrebas part une piste :
Ici commence l'acces au bonheur !!! Les alentours de de Trang An !
Vous allez vous retrouver dans un decor magnifique encore plus beau que lors de la ballade N°1 .
Suivre la piste qui serpente au milieu des pitons .
Elle se termine par un petit pont et 30m plus loin vous tombez sur une intersection en T .
( vous arrivez de la la branche verticale du T )
Deux panneaux portent les indications suivantes entre autres :
"Nha Hang Ba Cua" en vert/rouge & "Thach Ban Quan De Nui" en rouge/bleu
- Prendre à gauche , c'est la direction d' Hoa Lu , et au final vous aboutissez sur une grande route egalement en courbe .
A cet endroit vous trouverez des gargottes avec boissons et repas.
Je soupçonne que cette "nouvelle "grande route en partant à gauche ménerait à l'autre extrémité du tunnel . Point à confirmer
car je peux me tromper . Si Abalone ou Larsay me lisent ils auront peut-etre la réponse.
Si vous partez à droite depuis les gargottes , la route s'elargit et vous tomber sur des intersections avec des routes recemment construites
amenant du trafic à destination de Bai Dinh .
Je ne suis pas allé plus loin connaissant déjà le site de Hoa Lu et à vrai dire j etais incommodé par les bus/camions soulevant des nuages de
poussiére .
- Retour au petit pont du "T" . Et si je m etais dirigé à droite ? eh bien, je vais vous en parler dans l'option suivante " C"
C/ Prendre la route principale en courbe cette fois vers la droite.Elle passe entre les deux pitons .
Un peu plus loin cette route passe sur un pont tout neuf .
Passé ce pont , prendre la petite route etroite immediatement à gauche .
Avertissement : certaines sections sont en piteux etat , le bitume ayant fortement souffert .
J'ai mis le pied à terre pour menager mes pneus mais rassurez vous cela ne necessite pas
de parcourir à pied des centaines de metres .
Continuer tout droit , à un moment vous passerez devant un joli batiment /restaurant en bois sur votre gauche avant
d' aboutir au fameux "T" dont je parlais precedemment . ( vous arrivez de la branche horizontale droite du T )
- Continuer tout droit = direction Hoa Lu (= branche horizontale gauche )
- Prendre l’embranchement à gauche et le petit pont à 30 m ( branche verticale ) , vous atterrirez sur la grande route
disparaissant dans le tunnel à votre droite . A gauche vous vous dirigez vers l'embarcadére de Trang An et un km plus loin
avant que la route s'engage entre deux pitons et le nouveau pont , la pagode Ban Long puis à droite la piste retournant vers Tam Coc .
Toutes les branches de ce "T" constituent un endroit merveilleux .
Ballade N°3 (eventuellement )
En sortant de chez Loan tourner à droite direction la pagode Bich Dong .
Environ 400 m plus loin , prendre à droite une piste cahoteuse , en fait une levée de terre dominant les rizieres .
Elle decrit une boucle vous ramenant à la route principale et longeant une petite voie d'eau rectiligne sur la fin .
Autrefois quelques rameuses etaient presentes à cet endroit , on voit encore leurs barques en contrebas de la route .
Au fond de la boucle , vous pouvez prendre un chemin etroit qui s'enfonce encore plus loin mais vous serez obligé de revenir
en arriére et meme si le coin n’est pas désagréable , ce n'est pas le plus joli et parfois il faut soulever le vélo pour
franchir un obstacle .
Vous pouvez aussi suivre la berge opposée mais pareil on n'aboutit pas tres loin tout en mecontentant
les toutous ( les chiens) des habitants .
En debouchant à nouveau sur la route , pas tres loin part un petit chemin anonyme au milieu des riziéres , pas facile à trouver ,
qui vous raménera au village situé en face de chez à Loan .
J aime bien déambuler au milieu des ruelles de ce petit village typique .
Attendez vous à ce qu'on vous reclame des bonbons , ce qui n’était pas le cas deux ans auparavant .
Pour terminer , retourner au centre de Tam Coc et au niveau le l'embarcadére reperer le batiment portant
l'indication "WC " , coté opposé à l' hotel Le Duc Tuan .
Prendre la ruelle anonyme juste à sa droite et vous vous retrouvez sur la piste menant au temple de Tai Vi .
Franchi le pont sous lequel passe les rameuses , c'est toujours tout droit , passer sous un arbre dont le feuillage
surplombe la piste .
En arrivant sur le modeste parking devant Tai Vi , prendre la petite route à droite , elle vous aménera à un cul de sac
situé juste au bord de la riviére aux rameuses . quelques marches permettent aux barques d'accoster .
En face vous apercevrez Hang Mua et son pagodon /observatoire au sommet de la falaise .
Voilà , j' en ai terminé, en esperant que vous serez nombreux à avoir la chance d'apprecier cette splendide region.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
je precise bien que ce descriptif est destiné surtout à des personnes préssées et qui n'osent pas trop
se lancer seules de peur de s'egarer .
Avoue quand meme que les panneaux indicateurs sont quasi inexistants sur ces axes plus que secondaires .
Les noms des villages traversés ne sont pas non plus indiqués à l'entrée .
Et ce fameux tunnel que je mentionne , peux tu me dire ou il debouche ? meme les vietnamiens interrogés ont des doutes .
Merci pour ces itinéraires. Mon amie comptons bien les essayer aussi cet été quand nous serons sur place.
J'aurais une question sur un aspect de la région moins "original" que les ballades en vélo (vous me voyez venir...😊 ), à savoir les celles en barque. Si vous aviez à choisir entre l'embarcadère à Tam Coc et celui de Trang An, que me conseilleriez-vous?
Un certain guide d'origine française préconise la 2è (+ récent, trajet plus intéressant), mais je préfère de loin me fier au témoignage de personnes sur place.
Avis personnel : je pense que la promenade en bateau à partir de Tam Coc est la plus jolie mais
c est celle la plus frequentée par les visiteurs etrangers.
En se presentant tot le matin vous beneficiez de la tranquillité .
Sinon Loan peut te mettre en relation avec une rameuse pour un tour plus "intime" dans le secteur de ma premiére ballade . L'une d'elles etait venue recuperer un groupe de toulousains qui avaient apprécié le parcours .
Moi, j'ai fait la ballade en barque de Trang An (il me semble qu'en 2008, c'était la moins visitée.... ça a dû changer depuis...) ; c'était fabuleux, un vrai rêve... nous étions 3 barques sur l'eau (tous famille et amis). Nous n'avons rencontré personne!!!! si, des chèvres sur les pitons rocheux.
Nous n'entendions que le bruit des pagaies sur l'eau. Nous avions un ami vietnamien qui nous accompagnait c'est peut-être pour cela que nous n'avons eu aucune présentation de nappes, je ne sais pas....
En juin 2010, je dois faire les 2 ballades Tam Coc et Trang An, là, je pourrai faire la comparaison si comparaison il y a car c'est sa sensibilité personnelle qui parle dans ces cas-là.... et j'espère pouvoir acheter une nappe, soit dans le village soit sur la barque.
Je pense que pour les nappes.. large sujet ..privilégier les rameuses est un plus car il en faut du muscle et du courage pour effectuer le parcours, même si c'est à tour de rôle qu'elles le font..- et comme c'est sensiblement une fois par mois, si le jour est brumeux ou pluvieux.. le budget est bien maigre pour elles.
Quant aux fameuses nappes je n'ai jamais eu de mauvaises surprises - quoique j'ai pu lire à droite ou à gauche elles sont de bonne qualité, je les ai lavées et relavées et elles sont restées pimpantes -et puis, ça fait de superbes petits cadeaux pas bien chers pour les amis et la famille 😉😉😉
Je vais faire comme vous : je vais imprimer le texte de jeansellier pour m'en servir le moment venu, juchée sur mon vélo... quant aux indications qui seraient anémiques d'après Abalone, (mais peut-il en être autrement ?) je pense que je saurais les déchiffrer (même si c'est en mauvais vietnamien..) car c'est avec un repère de jeux de piste qu'on se perd le moins!!
plus que 14 ..😄😄
Amicalement - Kimtwo -
Le vent et les turbulences sont l'oeuvre de Dieu, mais la voile et le gouvernail nous appartiennent..
Voyager c'est aller de soi à soi, en passant par les autres (proverbe touareg)
J'ai toujours plaisir à vous lire.... Eh oui, plus que 14 (je rêve encore.... et je crois que je réaliserai lorsque je serai dans l'avion....)
J'ai eu l'occasion d'acheter une nappe dans le sud dans un petit village sur le Mékong. Elle est de très très bonne qualité, lavée et relavée, c'est vrai, et comme vous dites, pas chères au vu des prix en France !!!!( (ça, c'est moi que le dit et ça n'engage que moi...)!!!😉
Ce que je n'ai pas dit mais je rectifie (pas pour vous car nous me comprenez très bien...), si l'achat d'une nappe se fait dans le village et non sur la barque, bien entendu, il y aura pourboire..... pour la courageuse rameuse. Je ne concevrai absolument pas de ne rien offrir à cette personne car, c'est grâce à elle que nous bénéficions de ces instants magiques....
Mais là, le sujet est vaste et s'il-vous-plaît, pas de polémiques......
Chez nous, l'été est arrivé !!!! et chez vous aussi !!!! mais ne ne sommes pas encore à 40°!!!😉😉😉
Il est vrai qu'il est difficile de nommer les lieux tant les panneaux de signalisation ou le nom des lieux-dits sont inexistants. Néanmoins on a reconnu sans difficulté les ballades N°1 et N°3 que jean sellier décrit très bien pour les avoir pratiquées en mars dernier.
Seule différence : les péages "bonbon" ont été des péages "crayons de couleurs" en ce qui nous concerne : les gosses étaient ravis et nous ont laissés passer avec un grand sourire.
Larsay avait aussi posté d'excellentes promenades à faire aux alentours et les prix qu'il mentionnait pour les embarcadères de Tam Coc étaient toujours d'actualité.
A l'embarcadère de Tam Coc, beaucoup de touristes étrangers. A Trang An, principalement des touristes vietnamiens. Les chèvres sur les pitons rocheux sont présentes sur les 2 sites.😉
Merci pour ces impressions. J'en conclus qu'avec un peu d'organisation, les 2 peuvent être forts sympas. Je pense donc qu'on choisira au gré des rencontres et des envies du moment.
Pour la personne qui posait la question, nous partons de mi-juillet à mi-août. Bons voyages à tous!
Ce qui est marrant c'est que les gens en allant sur Bich Dong vous interpellent surtout en français quoique par deux fois des touristes vietnamiens m ont demandé si je n 'etais pas ....russe .
A croire que faire du vélo en short vous fait passer pour un touriste fauché et qu'il faudrait se deplacer en 4x4 avec chauffeur pour paraitre honorable . Mais le "Paraitre " je m'en moque , ce qui m'importe c'est de prendre du bon temps et de me sentir bien en parcourant la campagne .
Les crayons de couleur ! ou stylos , non aucune reclamation de ce genre .
Par contre le mot "dollar" est prononcé par des gamins ou meme des personnes agées .
Au niveau de Bich Dong , on est sollicité pour changer les euros métalliques contre des euros billets .
dans le village en face Loan , parfois des femmes demandent des bonbons ce qui n existait pas il y
a deux ans .
J avoue que je n aime pas trop ce genre de sollicitations car elles vont prendre de l'ampleur .
J ai beau leur montrer mes plombages et imiter le bruit de la roulette du dentiste , celà ne dissuade
guére , la gourmandise l'emporte et quand je vois des méres donner le bonbon sans precaution à de tous jeunes enfants j ai toujours peur que l un s'etouffe .
En fait, nous n'avions pas de bonbons mais suite à des voyages précédents à Sapa entre autre et au Cambodge, on avait prévu des crayons de couleurs, des cahiers de coloriage et des stylos.
Quand les gamins réclament des dongs, dollars ou bonbons, tendez leur une poignée de crayons de couleurs, ils sont super contents.
A Muong Phong près deDBP, au QG du general Giap, les gosses Thaïs nous abordaient pour nous vendre des racines medicinales ou des pilastres. Pour ne pas devoir les chasser brutalement, on leur donnait des crayons et des cahiers et un rapport s'établit aussitôt avec les mères qui vous regardent d'abord curieusement avant de venir bavarder avec vous sans essayer de vous vendre un souvenir bidon de la légendaire bataille.
Je ne cautionne pas non plus ce genre de sollicitations mais comme on devait passer la frontière vers le Laos et sachant qu'on allait traverser plein de villages thais, on s'était dit que si on ne voulait rien leur acheter, autant leur donner quelque chose qui peut-être leur serait utile éphémèrement.
Me voila une fois encore a TAM COC
Oui Jean tes ballades sont très bien décrites mais hélas il y a peu de panneaux de signalisation sur les routes et cela n est pas de ton ressort
Alors je joins à ton message un plan des lieux à visiter depuis chez LOAN
Ce plan est à l'échelle, tiré des images GOOGLE EARTH que tout le monde peut télécharger En ce qui concerne TRANG AN, il n y a pas d'illusion à avoir. Ce site existe depuis peu
L'embarcadère gigantesque ouvert depuis cette année n'a pas été fait pour une petite poignée de touristes en quète d'exotisme
Le parking, la route, la liaison avec la pagode de BAI DINH depuis NINH BINH, les hotels immenses en cours n'ont pas été faits sans etre programmés, sans etre réfléchis
Les grottes de TRANG AN - il y en a dix au total chacune avec un nom et un metrage bien identifié - ne sont pas toutes dans leur aspect initial naturel, elle ont été élargies pour permettre le passage des embarcations, mais c'est une réussite et la balade est tres agréable
Alors dans peu de temps surgiront les hordes de touristes, et alors ....
J ai connu TAM COC en 1997 a l'époque ou les barques etaient en bambous et l embarcadère en terre talutée; depuis 13 ans j'ai vu l' évolution du site mais j y prend toujours autant de plaisir à le visiter, a y retrouver des amis vietnamiens, ou à le faire découvrir a mes amis
Quelques compléments d informations au message de JEAN
Rectification sur le prénom du mari de LOAN: il s agit de BAY ( prononcer BA I ou BAILLI) ce qui signifie en vietnamien SEPT puisqu il est le 7 eme et dernier enfant d une famille nombreuse de Tam Coc
Des cartes de la région et du vietnam sont affichées chez LOAN, n' hésitez pas a les consulter, pour découvrir le nom de villages mais ces noms helas, vous ne les trouverez que rarement indiqués sur les routes de campagne
Un dernier point: vous pouvez rejoindre Trang An en vélo tres facilement depuis chez LOAN car tout est plat aucune montée
Loan peut vous envoyer le plan ci apres sur votre boite mail pour le dupliquer avant de venir à TAM COC
Bonne balades à vélo mais ne zapper pas les balades en bateau quelles qu"elles soient, elles ont chacunes leur charme
Ce n'est pas du tout une bonne idée de prendre des bonbons à distribuer aux enfants. Prends plutôt avec toi des stylos, crayons, tatoo à coller sur les mains et autres petites bricoles telles que stickers ou ou billes, mais surtout oublie les bonbons !!!
Quant à cet itinéraire à vélo, je le garde, il semble super !
Oui, c'est vrai ce que tu dis ; quand je dis bonbons, je pense aussi stylos, crayons, ballons. J'ai pour habitude d'en envoyer également de France à un ami au Vietnam qui fait la distribution chez les siens et les voisins. On est d'accord sur ce point là.
C'est bien stylos ou friandises pourquoi pas?
Mais ce n 'est pas la peine de vous charger de poids supplémentaires, vous trouverez ici de quoi satisfaire les plus démunis dans les campagnes tout en favorisant le commerce local.
La période où médicaments, jeans, crayons, bonbons étaient plus qu'une nécessité dans un pays sans ressource, est bien révolue;
Quelques fruits achetés sur place et pourquoi pas quelques friandises locales ou un petit jouet redistribués avec discrétion fera effectivement le bonheur des plus démunis
Le Vietnam a beaucoup évolué depuis quelques années et ce qui paraissait indispensable il y a dix ans est devenu totalement superflu dans la majorité des endroits visités
Donc ne surchargez pas vos bagages, ici les marchés regorgent de tout ....et vous payerez vos stylos beaucoup moins chers;
Et puis dans les plus petits villages il y a une foultitude de petites échoppes ou épiceries a chaque coin de rue a qui vous rendrez service ....
Ce n est bien évidemment qu'un conseil et vous ferez bien comme vous voudrez ... mais pensez tout de même a ce que vous achèterez dans nos grands magasins que vous amènerez ici a peut être déjà parcouru les 12000 kms dans l autre sens.🏴☠️😕
Merci à tous pour ces conseils et partage d'expérience ! Moi aussi j'ai imprimé itinéraires et carte, nous seront utiles sur place. Vivement juillet, qu'on se régale ! Nous aussi nous serons quelques jours chez Loan (merci Larsay) qui doit bien souvent avoir les oreilles qui sifflent. 😉
Bon weekend à tous
Hier alors qu'il faisait si chaud ici à Tam Coc à un moment où il n y avait plus de courant électrique pour raison de délestage, donc plus de clim dans les chambres, j'ai demandé à LOAN s'il n y avait pas de piscine à NINH BINH
Et avec son charme habituel et son merveilleux sourire elle m'a répondu POURQUOI NON, AU VIETNAM TOUT EST POSSIBLE et dans la demie heure qui a suivi je me suis retrouvé accompagné par toute la famille, dans un agréable bassin (BE BOI en Vietnamien prononcez BAIE BOYE) à l'eau claire bien rafraichissante un peu trop chaude a mon gôut
Le bassin n'est pas trop loin de l'hôtel, on peut y aller en vélo, c'est a 5 kms environ au bord de la route de NINH BINH à HUE, avant les 4 colonnes qui marquent l'arrivée à TAM COC
Attention rien à voir avec l'actuel complexe "hôtelier - piscine" en cours de construction; c'est un peu plus loin, en direction de NINH BINH, l'entrée se fait par une passerelle qui franchit un bras d'eau, cette passerelle étant signalée par un immense panneau sur lequel est inscrit "BE BOI"
Vous franchissez cette passerelle et vous arrivez à la piscine où il y a le choix entre le bassin de 25m par 10 ou un autre bassin couvert mais très aéré un peu plus petit avec des jets puissants, où l eau doit être surement plus fraiche puisqu'à l'abri du soleil. Coût 20.000 dongs par personne
Je passe l'information à tous ceux qui resteront plusieurs jours à TC , qui seront confrontés a une chaleur torride comme actuellement et qui trouveront peut être l'idée amusante de faire trempette
AVIS AUX GRINCHEUX Je sais bien qu'il y a autre chose à faire à TC que de se prélasser dans une piscine .....
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
Loan m avait effectivement remis ce plan mais il ne couvre pas le secteur de Trang An.
Je n 'ai pas vu de cartes affichées , elle en avait une autre mais vraiment succinte et manquant de precisions .
Je confirme que le nom de son mari s'ecrit BAY mais phonétiquement il faut prononcer BA-é
En deux ans je n ai guére trouvé de changements sur Tam Coc à mon grand etonnement mais je crois que ce n est que partie remise .
Quand tu es sur la grande route venant de Ninh Binh , tu passes à coté de la pagode Ban Long visible légèrement à ta droite .
Tu arrives un km plus loin au grand batiment de Trang An et au parking , tu continues encore tout droit
et un km plus loin la route s'engouffre dans ce fameux tunnel qui débouche je ne sais ou ???,
Effectivement tu n as pas pu voir de cartes affichées car elles datent d'une dizaine de jours et celle de la région de NINH BINH, renseignée depuis seulement depuis 3 jours
Hélas la nouvelle route qui va de HOA LU a BAI DINH ne figure pas encore sur la nouvelle carte
Quant au plan de LOAN, bien sur qu il ne couvrait pas la région de TRANG AN car ce plans encore une fois est tiré de l'imagerie de GOOGLE EARTH et hélas la définition dans le secteur de TRANG ANH et HOA LU n'est pas parfaite alors que l'embarcadère principal, la route de bich dong, le temple de Thai Vi, la montée de MUA CAVE, même la prison (hommes-femmes) sont nettement définies par photos satellites
Quant aux deux tunnels cités dans ton guide, je suppose qu'il s agit de ceux qui sont sur la nouvelle route qui joint NINH BINH à HOA LU, et qui passe devant l embarcadère de Trang An; je ne les ai pas trouvé si dangereux que cela d autant qu'ils sont encadrés de deux trottoirs pour les piétons, éventuellement pour les cyclistes qui se sentiraient en insécurité; Les deux tunnels ne sont pas très longs et la visibilité de jour est satisfaisante. Bien sur la nuit tombée je ne sais pas s'ils sont éclairés
Différent entre sur la prononciation de prénom de mon ami BAY, le mari de LOAN.
C'est un composé de Ba-é et Ba-î: ah que le vietnamien est difficile à parler.
Pour le changement de TAM COC en deux ans d accord avec toi, mais en 13 que d'évolutions et c'est mon 9 ème voyage ici, a peu prés tous les années depuis 6 ans
Tu arrives un km plus loin au grand batiment de Trang An et au parking , tu continues encore tout droit
et un km plus loin la route s'engouffre dans ce fameux tunnel qui débouche je ne sais ou ???,
D'après ce que tu décris, c'est le premier tunnel sur la route de Trang An à la pagode Bái Dính. 2 km plus loin, tu rencontreras le deuxième tunnel, à 4 km de la pagode de Bái Dính.Au mois de Mars dernier, c'était un piège pour les véhicules à 2 roues qui se retrouvent sur le dos, à cause de la boue laissée par les engins de chantiers.
Dans peu de temps, il faut s'attendre à des bouleversements concernant les axes de circulation. Le jour de la fête du Bouddisme du 6 au 8 Mars, il y a plus de 10 000 pélerins qui se sont rendus à la pagode et plusieurs milliers de véhicules de transports se retrouvent bloqués sur les 2 routes qui desservent la pagode Bái Dính. Tout le monde a dû marcher à pied pendant des km pour accéder à la pagode.
Il faut être au milieu de cette pagaille pour comprendre la nécessité d'entreprendre des travaux urgents.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
Merci pour les informations , donc pas de regret d'avoir poursuivi plus loin .
La boue il n y en avait pas fin avril mais de la poussiére soulevée par cars et camions !!! pouah !!
Esperons que dans le futur le secteur Baidinh sera dédié aux pélerins vietnamiens et que les autorités garderons intact le secteur rural de Trang An . Ainsi tout le monde sera content
La boue il n y en avait pas fin avril mais de la poussiére soulevée par cars et camions !!! pouah !!
Il suffit d'un peu de pluie pour que cette poussière se transforme en boue compacte.
Esperons que dans le futur le secteur Baidinh sera dédié aux pélerins vietnamiens et que les autorités garderons intact le secteur rural de Trang An . Ainsi tout le monde sera content
Ne t'inquiètes pas concernant les sites touristiques. Ils seront préservés, mais je répète encore une fois, on ne peut pas classer en parc national, car c'est un lieu de vie où les habitants doivent continuer à vivre et cultiver leur terre.
J'entends par ci et par là des voix qui s'élèvent contre le béton, mais il faut comprendre que le béton coûte moins cher pour un pays qui en produit lui-même et que cela répond aux intempéries incessantes auxquelles le goudron ne résiste pas, même si la mise en oeuvre des infrastructures en béton coûte plus cher. Les écologistes rêveurs ne connaissent pas tous les paramètres d'un développement en adéquation avec les intérêts régionaux, ils se contentent trop souvent de vouloir de faire copie collé des modèles venant d'ailleurs.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
Tout d'abord merci à tous pour toutes ces infos, cartes et conseils.
Devant annuler ma montée vers Sapa, je dispose de 2- 3 jours supplémentaires et donc je pense en profiter pour aller chez Loan.
Nous y serons début novembre.
Si je t'ai bien compris, tu ne recommandes pas plus les grottes de Trang Nang que celles de Tam Coc ? Et faire les 2 en si peu de temps sur place ?
Parce qu'en fait je me disais que les paysages, la campagne environnante, les rizières..., pour les balades en vélo, n'étaient pas forcément top en cette saison ?
J'y serai début novembre.
Qu'en penses tu ?
TRANG NANG ou TAM COC , ce que j en pense ....
Tu peux en rajouter au moins deux TRANG AN et la secrète non ouverte au public.
Si tu vas a TAM COC la ou tu penses aller loger, qui mieux qu' ELLE (chut! il ne faut pas la nommer ça agace certains) pourra te donner les bons tuyaux. ELLE est du coin, ELLE est ancienne rameuse, et ELLE parle le Français donc .....
Bon tu me demandes mon avis ; perso j aime les 4 ..... mais ELLE te dira ce que tu peux faire en fonction du temps que tu disposeras.
Les balades à vélo en Novembre sont toujours possible, il fait des superbes journées assez souvent.
A quel moment en Janvier serez vous dans le coin? Je suis en train de preparer le detail de mon 2eme voyage au Vietnam, et je serais a Tam Coc Chez Loan pendant 2/3 jours a un moment donne entre le 11 et le 28 Janvier. Au plaisir peut etre de vous rencontrer!
Et un grand merci a Jean pour ce carnet de route. D'apres vous, quel type de temps mi Janvier? (J'etais a Hanoi-Hue-Hoi An fin Jan-mi Fevrier 2008 et sous la pluie/ciel gris quasi tout le temps, mais genial quand meme).
Cordialement,
Noemi
"Chaque homme cache en lui un enfant qui veut jouer".
Nietzsche
Le carnet de route n'est peut-etre plus tout à fait à jour depuis mai dernier.
J ai cru comprendre que pour la balade N°1 , la piste cimentée est en cours de prolongement .
Alors , profitez en au plus vite avant qu'un jour les voitures y aient acces.
bonjour,
nous arrivons a Tam Coc le 10 janvier et nous ne restons malheureusement que trois jours
pour le temps je prie pour qu'il ne pleuve pas car nous avons prévu de faire tout en vélo 😠
bonne journée
Murielle
Je ne suis pas allé à Ken Ga car c'est plus loin et il m'aurait fallu emprunter les nouvelles routes
poussiereuses fréquentées par camions de travaux publics et cars de touristes qui se rendent aux anciennes pagodes et celle toute nouvelle située en haut d'une colline .
Sorti de cette zone il n'y a plus de pitons , c'est une plaine avec des cours d'eau , difficile de s'y reperer , aucun panneau indicateur et là il faut utiliser bacs et autres routes pour aller sur Ken Ga ( j' etais avec un mototaxi de Tam coc en 2008 , qui m'avait indiqué que Ken ga etait beaucoup plus loin mais on n apercevait pas les pitons .
Je sais que notre chère Loan de Tam Coc peut denicher un taxi qui t'y emmènera pour la journée.
Se rendre a Khen Ga en vélo, je ne vous le conseille pas non plus.
Le chemin le plus simple en partant de TAM COC, ou plutôt de VAN LAM est de retourner sur NINH BINH, emprunter la route nationale n°1 en direction de Hanoi (très empruntée et assez dangereuse) jusqu'à la rivière "Song Boi", la franchir et tourner immédiatement à gauche sur le chemin digue (plus calme mais plus étroit). Longer la rivière sur plusieurs kilomètres, pour arriver à un embarcadère au niveau du franchissement d'un petit cours d 'eau. La cabine où prendre les billets pour la promenade en barque est sur votre droite à coté d'un café restaurant et les bateaux sur votre gauche de l'autre coté du chemin digue , pour une ballade d'une heure trente à 2 heures incluant la traversée du village dit "flottant" de KENH GA et la découverte d'un site certe agréable mais plus éloigné des "pains de sucre" qui font la beauté de la région. C'est pas mal mais pour 2 à 3 jours à passer dans la région, il vaut mieux rester dans le secteur de TAM COC - VAN LAM, pour découvrir à vélo, les ballades de TAM COC, BICH DONG, THAI VI, HANG MUA, TRANG AN, THUNG NANH voire HOA LU et plus loin encore la pagode de BAI DINH.
A prendre un taxi ou une moto pour faire Khen Ga .... je pense qu'il est plus intéressant d'aller à PHAT DIEM, visiter la cathédrale ( si vous rencontrer le jeune prêtre qui y officie c'est un régal mais il ne parle pas le Français hélas)
Tous ces lieux ont déjà été cités par JEAN SELLIER dans son guide du vélo remis à LOAN et puis par LARSAY dans son long post que vous pouvez découvrir ici où également chez LOAN en français ou anglais.
Chez LOAN vous trouverez également de grandes cartes murales du Viet Nam et de la province de NINH BINH affichées dans sa salle de restaurant. C'est très instructif.
Merci pour vos réponses. La cathédrale de Phat Diem en effet serait plus intéressante et permettrait de diversifier les paysages. Je n'ai pas le guide du vélo de Jean Sellier à part cette page. S'il y en a un autre, je vais le demander à Loan, à moins qu'il soit quelque part sur ce forum, mais où? La fonction recherche ne marche pas bien en ce moment sur le forum. Est-ce qu'il faut une journée pour Phat Diem? Est-ce qu'il y a d'autres lieux à proximité de Phat Diem à visiter?
J'ai trouvé cette info sur une agence de voyages: <> Peut-on prévoir quelques villages en plus de Phat Diem pour la journée?
Combien environ coûtera le taxi aller-retour pour 2 personnes? Nous y serons début avril (les 4, 5 et 6), on espère avoir un temps correct pour faire du vélo au moins 2 jours sur 3, peut-être vaut-il mieux prévoir une journée avec des visites à l'intérieur de sites?
Et pour repartir à Hanoi le matin, est-ce qu'il y a un bus opentour qui passe à Ninh Binh?
Sylvie
Mes notes sur ces balades sont consultables en positionnant le filtre sur Google : voyageforum jeansellier
et là vous devriez y avoir acces , elles datent de Mai 2010.
Loan en a reçu une copie pour qu'elles les impiment à ses clients .
Phat diem et sa cathédrale sont au milieu d'une plaine.
Le mieux c'est d'y aller en empruntant les routes secondaires désertes passant sur des levées de terre .
pas de pitons en vue , des rizieres , des paysans , des buffles au milieu d'une immensité verte , sous un ciel bas c'est vraiment melancolique . Pareil , sur ces routes secondaires rien d'indiqué .
En taxi moto l'AR prend la matinée et si le gars connait bien il empruntera des sentiers à travers les rizieres au retour .
De Tam Coc prendre la ligne droite qui amene à l'axe principal Hanoi-Hue , le franchir et aller tout droit
ensuite tourner à droite sur une route pas bien large et frequentée .
Mon taxi-moto etait entré dans une bourgade , avait pris une rue à droite , puis une à gauche plus loin
et ensuite on a atterri au milieu des champs et rizières . Autant dire que les paysans sont surpris
de vous voir .
Nous avons fait quelques variantes et traversé des villages avant d'arriver à Trang An, aussi je ne saurai pas dire s'il y a des changements sur le circuit. Pour la ballade n°1 nous avons vu tout ce qui est décrit, y compris les enfants qui demandent des bonbons.
Sylvie
Merci pour ton guide, je m'en suis servi en Juillet et j'ai fait quelques ballades que tu proposes ainsi que d'autres involontaires car je me suis paumé 🤪 plusieurs fois. Par contre en Juillet il y avait pas mal de travaux pour aller à la pagode au 450 marches!
Pour ceux qui veulent faire la ballade en bateau il faut y aller très tôt le matin, les vendeuses en barques commencent tout juste à s'installer et on est moins importuné😠 et on croise les gens qui travaillent dans les rizières et sur la rivière (pécheurs, récoltes des graines de lotus...).
Pour les photographes, il y a de belles photos à faire au couché du soleil en allant dans les rizières situées à droite en sortant de chez Loan (bien marcher sur les digues afin de respecter le travail des paysans) juste après le petit village.
Loan est vraiment géniale et parle très bien le Français, par contre un inconvénient (si cela peut en être un) il y a principalement des Francophones chez elle!
Cela fait toujours plaisir de voir que mon "guide de balades " puisse servir à d'autres personnes mais je crains fort qu'il y ait eu pas mal de changements depuis et que le décor naturel en souffre.
Quels travaux font-ils du coté de la pagode aux 450 marches ? au pied des pitons il n'y avait que rizières et champs .
L'etablissement à Loan va finir par devenir l' annexe du consulat de France .
Mais cette vietnamienne est une fée pour ses clients !
Parmi les nombreuses merveilles que recélent le Vietnam , un de mes coups de cœur
s'adresse tout particuliérement à la Baie d’Halong terrestre située à proximité de Ninh Binh/Tam Coc .
J' ai decouvert cet endroit en 2008 et j' y suis retourné derniérement , prenant à chaque fois un grand plaisir à parcourir ses alentours.
Cette region s'etalant entre Tam Coc , Trang An, Hoa Lu est tres jolie et il est vraiment dommage que de nombreux visiteurs n'y fassent qu un saut rapide pour la journée ou n y consacrent qu'un ou deux jours.
L' adorable petite receptionniste Than de l' hotel Le Duc Tuan de Tam Coc ayant quitté cet hotel suite à
son mariage , je suis allé dormir " Chez LOAN" , alléché par les commentaires enthousiastes, elogieux lus sur Voyageforum , et qui s'avérent totalement justifiés.
Loan secondée par son mari Baé est une vietnamienne absolument adorable , en permanence aux petits soins pour ses clients .
Alors voici un petit guide qui permettra aux visiteurs pressés d'entreprendre quelques jolies ballades à bicyclette , sans difficulté majeure car le terrain est plat
mais se révèle tape-cul sur certaines sections .
Mon point de depart est l'hotel " Chez Loan", situé à la sortie de Tam Coc sur la route conduisant à la pagode Bich Dong , un bon kilométre apres
l'embarcadére principal au centre de la bourgade .
Loan met à votre disposition des velos pour entreprendre ces promenades.
Elle denichera des petites motocyclettes pour les moins courageux.
Ballade N°1 : ( agréable, facile et necessite peu de temps )
En sortant de chez Loan tourner à droite direction la pagode Bich Dong .( beaucoup de visiteurs )
La route se termine dans un cul de sac ou vous attendent des vendeuses et leurs etals destinés aux touristes .
Une centaine de metres avant ce cul de sac et apres que la route se resserre dans un etranglement entre deux rochers ,
emprunter la petite route betonnée qui part à gauche .
Un peu plus loin sur votre gauche , un petit pont enjambe le fossé . Franchissez le , et suivez la petite route etroite longeant un piton à votre droite ,
quelques chevreaux seront peut etre en train de gambader sur ses pentes .
Derriere se cache une jolie petite pagode ou vous devriez rencontrer peu de visiteurs .
De temps un temps un groupe de touristes vietnamiens s'y rend en cheminant à pied depuis Bich Dong .
Derriere cette pagode il y a apparemment possibilité de monter à une petite grotte .
Revenir au pont et tourner à gauche en laissant Bich Dong derriére soi .
Vous serez peut-etre héler par des rameuses , à proximité se trouve un petit embarcadére discret .
La route serpente à travers un defilé , bordée à sa gauche par un large fossé rempli d'eau .
A la sortie du defilé , aller toujours tout droit , à votre droite surgit une sorte de cirque avec rizieres , entouré de pitons et
quelques rares habitations dispersées ici et là.
En fait cet itineraire va vous faire decrire une boucle à l interieur .
Attention : sur la gauche se trouve une piste avec une barriére + espéce de cabane vide .Ne vous y engagez pas .
Je pense qu'elle aboutit au penitencier pour femmes dont on devine les murs à travers la vegetation .
Ne faites pas comme Jacques " Larsay" qui , pour anecdote , avait atterri en plein dans leur camp de travail en suivant un autre itineraire .
D’où quelques explications à fournir aux "autorités" et quelques frissons vus les regards concupiscents de toutes ces dames & demoiselles
privées de compagnon .
La route se transforme en piste puis devient un chemin cahoteux .
Peut-etre serez vous arretés au ... péage "Bonbon " :Des jeunes enfants surgissent parfois pour en reclamer .
Un bambin haut comme trois pommes s'était planté résolument devant ma roue et pas impressionné du tout par mon bon
metre quatre vingt m'en reclamait un d'un ton ferme , le regard farouche .
Voilà un futur chef en herbe ??
Lorsque la boucle entame son retour vers l entrée du cirque , un petit chemin part à gauche mais en fait debouche
sur une petite pagode en refection sans grand interet . Le chemin principal s'elargit en une piste vous ramenant au niveau du defilé.
Reprendre à gauche pour regagner le cul de sac de Bich Dong .
La ballade est facilement faisable en deux heures , visite des pagodes incluse .
Ballade N°2 : ( c'est la plus belle mais plus eloignée)
De chez Loan , tourner à gauche pour retourner au centre de Tam Coc et à partir de la place des embarcadères prendre la longue ligne droite qui
améne à la route principale pour Ninh Binh .
Un gros village se trouve à gauche , guetter le panneau de sens interdit planté dans le terre plein central
et rejoindre la "route " qui court parallélement à cette ligne droite , vous y serez plus tranquilles .
Attention en traversant , les arbustes du terre plein central masquent les vehicules qui peuvent arriver lancés à toute allure .
Continuer tout droit jusqu'à atteindre la rue betonnée , partant à gauche qui traverse le bourg .
Prendre cette rue et maintenant , fastoche , c'est toujours tout droit pendant des kms !
A la sortie du bourg apparaissent des riziéres et un petit cimetiere .
A gauche les pitons de Tam Coc , à droite Ninh Binh se devine dans le lointain et en face de vous
se dresse la barriére de pitons derriére laquelle se blottit Hoa Lu .
Pour l'instant le coin est quelconque , les " merveilles" vous attendent plus loin .
La piste aborde une butte en fait un ponceau. .
Coté gauche , passé ce ponceau vous allez apercevoir une piste menant aux pitons et au flanc de ceux-ci , ainsi qu' un escalier
de 450 marches . Il monte à l'observatoire de Hang Mua coiffé d'un pagodon sous lequel est edifié une statue de la Vierge ..
Si vous souhaitez y monter , passer sous la barriére , la cabane adjacente etant souvent inoccupée , aller à la maison toute proche habitée par un gentil couple de gardiens agés.
Entrée = 20 000 dongs par personne . Confiez leur votre vélo pendant la durée de la grimpette .
Si le temps est vraiment brumeux , s'epargner la montée , vous ne verrez pas grand-chose comme cela a été mon cas .
La riviére en contrebas était visible mais coté Ninh Binh que du brouillard .
Retour à la route ( piste) principale . Traverser les deux villages consecutifs , le second est moins important .
La piste se termine au niveau d'une grande route toute large decrivant un arc de cercle .
Arrivé à cet endroit 3 options s'offrent à vous .
A/ Traverser la route et prendre la piste juste en face .
Elle vous méne à la jolie petite pagode de Ban Long.
De là rejoindre l'option B , la route passant tout pres.
B/ Prendre la route principale en courbe vers la gauche .
Pas mal de motocyclettes , bus , minibus de touristes l'empruntent suivant l heure et le jour mais
comme elle est large pas grand-chose à craindre .
Au bout d'un kilométre vous allez apercevoir un grand batiment avec toit typique coté gauche et un grand parking
coté droit .
Vous etes arrivés à Trang An , embarcadére aussi fréquenté sinon plus que celui de Tam Coc .
Les touristes sont majoritairement vietnamiens .Toutes les rameuses sont vetues d'une veste bleu ciel .
Continuer la route tout droit . vous apercevez le va et vient des barques coté gauche .
La route disparait dans un tunnel que je n ai pas emprunté . Sans lumiére , je ne souhaitais pas risquer ma peau
connaissant les fous du volant qui opérent dans le pays .
Et selon les informations obtenues ulterieurement , il aurait été vraiment imprudent de s'y engager .
Avant le tunnel , coté gauche une piste vous améne au bord de la riviére aux rameuses.
On apercoit un debarcadére un peu plus loin menant à ce qui semble etre une grotte .
L'endroit va vraisemblablement changer vu la presence d'engins de chantier .
Retour à la grande route toujours avant l' entrée du tunnel , mais coté opposé :
Deux panneaux sont plantés au niveau de la route avec les indications suivantes en rouge :" Ba Cua " et" Ban Quan , Bac San Dé Nui"
A droite en contrebas part une piste :
Ici commence l'acces au bonheur !!! Les alentours de de Trang An !
Vous allez vous retrouver dans un decor magnifique encore plus beau que lors de la ballade N°1 .
Suivre la piste qui serpente au milieu des pitons .
Elle se termine par un petit pont et 30m plus loin vous tombez sur une intersection en T .
( vous arrivez de la la branche verticale du T )
Deux panneaux portent les indications suivantes entre autres :
"Nha Hang Ba Cua" en vert/rouge & "Thach Ban Quan De Nui" en rouge/bleu
- Prendre à gauche , c'est la direction d' Hoa Lu , et au final vous aboutissez sur une grande route egalement en courbe .
A cet endroit vous trouverez des gargottes avec boissons et repas.
Je soupçonne que cette "nouvelle "grande route en partant à gauche ménerait à l'autre extrémité du tunnel . Point à confirmer
car je peux me tromper . Si Abalone ou Larsay me lisent ils auront peut-etre la réponse.
Si vous partez à droite depuis les gargottes , la route s'elargit et vous tomber sur des intersections avec des routes recemment construites
amenant du trafic à destination de Bai Dinh .
Je ne suis pas allé plus loin connaissant déjà le site de Hoa Lu et à vrai dire j etais incommodé par les bus/camions soulevant des nuages de
poussiére .
- Retour au petit pont du "T" . Et si je m etais dirigé à droite ? eh bien, je vais vous en parler dans l'option suivante " C"
C/ Prendre la route principale en courbe cette fois vers la droite.Elle passe entre les deux pitons .
Un peu plus loin cette route passe sur un pont tout neuf .
Passé ce pont , prendre la petite route etroite immediatement à gauche .
Avertissement : certaines sections sont en piteux etat , le bitume ayant fortement souffert .
J'ai mis le pied à terre pour menager mes pneus mais rassurez vous cela ne necessite pas
de parcourir à pied des centaines de metres .
Continuer tout droit , à un moment vous passerez devant un joli batiment /restaurant en bois sur votre gauche avant
d' aboutir au fameux "T" dont je parlais precedemment . ( vous arrivez de la branche horizontale droite du T )
- Continuer tout droit = direction Hoa Lu (= branche horizontale gauche )
- Prendre l’embranchement à gauche et le petit pont à 30 m ( branche verticale ) , vous atterrirez sur la grande route
disparaissant dans le tunnel à votre droite . A gauche vous vous dirigez vers l'embarcadére de Trang An et un km plus loin
avant que la route s'engage entre deux pitons et le nouveau pont , la pagode Ban Long puis à droite la piste retournant vers Tam Coc .
Toutes les branches de ce "T" constituent un endroit merveilleux .
Ballade N°3 (eventuellement )
En sortant de chez Loan tourner à droite direction la pagode Bich Dong .
Environ 400 m plus loin , prendre à droite une piste cahoteuse , en fait une levée de terre dominant les rizieres .
Elle decrit une boucle vous ramenant à la route principale et longeant une petite voie d'eau rectiligne sur la fin .
Autrefois quelques rameuses etaient presentes à cet endroit , on voit encore leurs barques en contrebas de la route .
Au fond de la boucle , vous pouvez prendre un chemin etroit qui s'enfonce encore plus loin mais vous serez obligé de revenir
en arriére et meme si le coin n’est pas désagréable , ce n'est pas le plus joli et parfois il faut soulever le vélo pour
franchir un obstacle .
Vous pouvez aussi suivre la berge opposée mais pareil on n'aboutit pas tres loin tout en mecontentant
les toutous ( les chiens) des habitants .
En debouchant à nouveau sur la route , pas tres loin part un petit chemin anonyme au milieu des riziéres , pas facile à trouver ,
qui vous raménera au village situé en face de chez à Loan .
J aime bien déambuler au milieu des ruelles de ce petit village typique .
Attendez vous à ce qu'on vous reclame des bonbons , ce qui n’était pas le cas deux ans auparavant .
Pour terminer , retourner au centre de Tam Coc et au niveau le l'embarcadére reperer le batiment portant
l'indication "WC " , coté opposé à l' hotel Le Duc Tuan .
Prendre la ruelle anonyme juste à sa droite et vous vous retrouvez sur la piste menant au temple de Tai Vi .
Franchi le pont sous lequel passe les rameuses , c'est toujours tout droit , passer sous un arbre dont le feuillage
surplombe la piste .
En arrivant sur le modeste parking devant Tai Vi , prendre la petite route à droite , elle vous aménera à un cul de sac
situé juste au bord de la riviére aux rameuses . quelques marches permettent aux barques d'accoster .
En face vous apercevrez Hang Mua et son pagodon /observatoire au sommet de la falaise .
Voilà , j' en ai terminé, en esperant que vous serez nombreux à avoir la chance d'apprecier cette splendide region.
Cordialement à tous
Jean
Bonjour Jean,
Nous sommes trois voyageuses partis au Vietnam et nous avons suivi avec grand plaisir votre petit itinéraire!
Malheureusement, nous n'avons pas trouvé le pont neuf dans la partie C de la balade numéro 2!
Sinon nous avons passé une très agréable journée grâce à vous!
Dans tous les cas, merci d'avoir pris le temps de nous avoir fait partager votre expérience.
Cordialement!
Après 2 premiers carnets de voyage publiés sur VF consacrés à des régions indonésiennes peu touristiques "La traversée des Célèbes (Sulawesi) en photos" ou…
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Revenu depuis 4 mois d'un magnifique voyage au Vietnam, j'ai eu l'envie d'essayer de vous faire partager cette expérience magnifique en la couchant par écrit…
Voilà bientôt deux mois que nous sommes rentrés (voyage du 21/9 au 6/10), les impressions se sont un peu décantées, le tri des photos est en bonne voie et la…
Il y a un an, j'ai poste 2 longs messages "Grand tour du nord-est du Vietnam" et "Grand tour du NO du Vietnam". Depuis ce temps, je ne cesse de continuer a…
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rentals kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything fell into place—I told myself, now’s the time!
Preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or play it by ear?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela on this destination (the guide has been updated since).
---/---
You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(‘Beefsteak’ for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
June 2024.
While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way.
The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km.
It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.
In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?
And the answers?
Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan.
Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable.
But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give.
Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom.
A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain.
But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.
Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing.
And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality.
When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual.
No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.
This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.
Now, all that was left was to walk.
April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.
02 mars — Départ en bus de Latour à 6 h 50. Le trajet n’est pas direct : nous traversons Elne puis Corneilla. À Perpignan je change de bus pour un BlablaBus en direction de la gare routière nord de Barcelone. Avant d’arriver au Perthus, la police française nous arrête pour vérifier les papiers d’identité. Plusieurs personnes ne sont pas en règle, mais après environ un quart d’heure nous repartons. Nous sommes de nouveau contrôlés à La Jonquera : cette fois l’attente dure presque trois quarts d’heure pendant que la police identifie les personnes en infraction et attend qu’un véhicule vienne les récupérer. Le chauffeur essaie ensuite de rattraper le retard ; nous arrivons finalement à destination avec une demi‑heure de retard.
Je me rends rapidement à la station de métro Arc de Triomphe, située à 200 m : il faut traverser le pont le long du parking des bus, puis traverser un grand jardin ; la station se trouve à droite avant l’entrée du jardin. Le trajet vers l’aéroport n’est pas direct : je dois changer à Tomasso et prendre la ligne pour l’aéroport, où j’arrive à 13 h.
Au comptoir d’Emirates j’apprends que mon vol vient d’être annulé en raison de la guerre en Iran ; on me propose un autre vol pour le lendemain. Je dois attendre à l’aéroport jusqu’à 19 h avant d’être conduite à un hôtel ; le lendemain matin je prendrai un vol pour Vienne (avec une escale de 8 h), puis un vol Air India pour Delhi et enfin un vol pour Kolkata. J’accepte : je ne connais pas Vienne, ce sera une découverte imprévue.
À 19 h, un petit groupe est conduit à l’hôtel, à 35 minutes de l’aéroport, où l’on nous sert un léger dîner à notre arrivée.
03 mars — Un taxi vient me chercher à 6 h 30 ; le vol pour Vienne décolle à 9 h 30 et arrive à 12 h. Je suis libre jusqu’à 19 h ; le métro est direct pour rejoindre le centre‑ville. Le temps est agréable et pas trop froid, heureusement, car mes vêtements sont légers.
À la sortie du métro j’aperçois au loin la tour de la cathédrale Saint‑Étienne et je m’en approche : la toiture, faite de tuiles vernissées, est remarquable.
L’entrée est gratuite et l’intérieur, de style gothique et baroque au centre, est grandiose.
Non loin de là se trouve l’église Saint‑Anne
, également baroque, ornée de belles fresques
un concert de musique ajoute une atmosphère envoûtante à la visite.
Je poursuis ma promenade au hasard dans les rues piétonnes aux magnifiques bâtiments : je suis séduite par la ville.
Avant de repartir pour l’aéroport, je fais une halte dans un joli salon de thé. Mon vol partira finalement avec du retard.
Mercredi 4 mars — Delhi et petite frayeur bagages
Nous arrivons à Delhi peu après midi. Le passage à l’immigration est rapide et, bonne nouvelle, mon sac a été enregistré depuis Barcelone pour Kolkata. Je me rends donc au terminal de correspondance et arrive une demi‑heure avant l’embarquement : le vol se déroule sans problème. À l’arrivée, les bagages sortent vite… sauf le mien. Après avoir fait une déclaration, on me signale que mon sac est à Delhi — il faut aller le récupérer avant de prendre un autre vol. Je l’ignorais (ou l’avais oublié) : avec le retard accumulé, je n’aurais pas eu le temps de le récupérer et de prendre la correspondance.
Je prends un taxi pour l’hôtel Ichamati. L’accueil est chaleureux et la chambre propre, mais très petite. Sans mon sac, je me sens un peu désemparée — je n’ai rien pour me changer.
Ce soir je dîne avec Raja et ses amis dans un beau resto, une ancienne maison coloniale transformée en hôtel.
Nous sommes heureux de nous voir et passons une bonne soirée réconfortante.
This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one.
So, here we go...
After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we’re hoping this time the sun will shine in Puglia.
It’s not a sure thing, though—the weather’s been awful all over Europe in early May.
For those who’d like to (re)read the story without the digressions, it’s here.
Saturday, May 16:
This time we’re flying out of Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight times, and proximity all worked for us.
The airport (Ryanair) was recently renovated... but it’s still not very well organized. There are hardly any seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms cost money!!!
The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari a little late.
We quickly pick up our rental car, a very local-looking Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian roads... and their unique driving quirks (like the fact that the countless road signs along the streets and in towns are purely decorative 😏, and that Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).
About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli.
The owner isn’t there, but they’ve left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch.
We explore the property:
And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:
Sunday, May 17:
After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start inland.
After a hearty breakfast,
we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs.
We easily find a free parking spot on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.
We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).
From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.
Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner.
We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.
I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...
Here’s the classic route we took:
We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima.
The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night).
For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person).
We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express).
Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives.
After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport.
It turned out to be super useful!
After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening.
Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory).
Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that dot city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the "vintage" vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a colorful mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to the nearby Asakusa Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
After summer 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, here I am back in Swedish Lapland in summer 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, to tackle part of the Kungsleden trail too.
After much hesitation, my companion Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which is, from what we’ve read, stunning but very crowded (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: Sarek! This park is known as Europe’s last true wilderness—sounds like a dream, right?!
The downside of this choice is that there’s no way to resupply in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long treks either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part with the Sarek in mind.
Oh well, we’re motivated!
Our plan is to start in Abisko (classic), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official route and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad).
But at least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to bail on Sarek.
That adds up to 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day + 1 buffer day for weather hiccups.
So if you’re interested, come follow our overstuffed backpacks!
08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure
Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta)
08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri
08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja
08/06 – just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo
08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + round trip to Djalson Lake
08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure
08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden)
08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure
08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure
08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - Sarek or no Sarek?
08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen
Coming up:
08/13 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – Above the Skarki hut
We went to Albania in August 2025.
Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.
I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees.
We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.
Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors.
You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned.
The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents.
We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance.
After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine.
In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots.
In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.
And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations...
Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.
One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.
On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.
I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring.
So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings.
We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.
Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.
After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold.
We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength...
Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes:
🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman
🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...
🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great.
After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!
🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër.
After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!
But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing.
In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!
I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.
First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!
We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning.
And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.
For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.
Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.
With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hello,
Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...).
Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand.
For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken.
Comments and questions are welcome.
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s.
Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid.
Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.
Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior.
Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust...
What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.
Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.
After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold?
And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs.
The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.
Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!
That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos.
When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.
Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.
The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.
Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams.
The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*
Hi there,
Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo).
It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people.
At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.
Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.
The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it.
Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead.
We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!
That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉
I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.
Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá
We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.
Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento
The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air.
We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems.
We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.
Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley
This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect.
That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.
Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views
The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet.
In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.
Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall
We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill.
We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.
Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales
Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.
Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs
In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.
Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games
We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.
Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast
Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.
Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena
We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.
Day 11 – Road to Barú
A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.
Day 12 – Beach and relaxation
A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.
Day 13 – On to Santa Marta
Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.
Day 14 – Tayrona Park
We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.
Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá
Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.
Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip
Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.
That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle.
The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia.
Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.
If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change:
- I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly.
- Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.
Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany.
Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).
Another building near the square:
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory?
In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination).
So, read on... or don’t .
Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).
This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.
We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less).
This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro).
We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call!
Whose fault is it?
Storm Thérèse’s!
Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...
But even without Thérèse...
Saturday 21/03
Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia.
The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down.
It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.
We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter.
We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.
It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier).
So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours.
We found a huge parking lot... empty.
The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕.
So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.
The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon.
As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!
Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon!
Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded .
The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.
So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete.
The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛).
Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked!
Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.
Trip Planning
My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers.
I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.
The Trip
Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22
Departure
It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station.
The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots.
We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible.
We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher.
We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it.
I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes.
We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel.
After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room.
A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view.
It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want.
Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day.
Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive.
A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery.
We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all.
In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.
Tuesday, September 23
After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park.
The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds.
Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride.
We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park.
It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot.
We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos.
At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam.
The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock.
On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.
Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.
Wednesday, September 24
We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast.
When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer.
The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers.
You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes.
At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics.
Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua.
This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique.
There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water.
Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water.
Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics.
Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon.
We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano.
A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano.
When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring.
We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.
Thursday, September 25
After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano.
This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater.
Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment.
The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks.
You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach.
Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products.
We then head to the famous Papagayo beach.
The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue.
From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road.
Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover.
We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches.
We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks.
The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful.
We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.
Friday, September 26
We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit.
Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time.
The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here.
We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops.
We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice.
Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting.
We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.
Saturday, September 27
After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works.
Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down.
We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95.
We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach.
At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.
Sunday, September 28
We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious.
We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away.
We return the rental car and go to the airport.
A long line to check in our luggage.
The return flight is on time.
A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station.
We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases.
The rental is between the old port and the train station.
Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor.
The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular.
This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.
In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit.
I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual.
Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up...
We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...
As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??
The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.
In Addis... "our" A-350.
.....
After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.
By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later.
Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.
Welcome on board:
Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:
I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias??
As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...
On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!!
Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.
It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge.
Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...
Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.
Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??
A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:
Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!
When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me.
I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Just back from two weeks in Andalusia, and I wanted to share this experience with you—maybe it’ll help with planning a trip. I’ll start with a quick recap in this post and try to add photos and day-by-day details later (still sorting through them). Hope I don’t bore you too much! 😎
Trip details:
April 20 to May 4, 2019:
7 days on the Costa de la Luz (El Puerto de Santa María) in an Airbnb,
4 days at the junction of the Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical (Salobreña) in an Airbnb,
3 days at Cabo de Gata for some rest at a campsite in Los Escullos.
Two families of four, each with our own car: three 9-year-old boys and a 6-year-old girl. One family was more into city exploration (not us, but we’re working on it), and the other preferred relaxation and nature (that’s us). We speak a little Spanish.
Over 5,000 km, including 2,500 km for the round trip from Carcassonne.
The weather: Variable, but we expected better for this region in late April. The first week on the Costa de la Luz was sometimes chilly (< 20°C), and the second week was warmer but not excessive (< 25°C). At least we didn’t get much rain!
Our budget: Around 2600 € per family:
700 € for accommodations, about 50 € per night,
1000 € for meals and restaurants. We usually spent around 50 € per family at restaurants—we ate out for lunch (except for 2–3 picnics) and cooked at home in the evenings, trying to be back by 6 PM.
600 € for activities: Río Tinto, a flamenco show, visits to the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar, Oasis Park with meals, and a kayaking trip.
300 € for gas and tolls.
Preparation: A few months ahead with bookings for accommodations and tickets for the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar. We used a few travel guides—I like the *Évasion* guide for initial planning. *Géoguide* was okay, but our friends’ *Routard* was the most useful. We also spent three months brushing up on Spanish with Mosalingua (a great spaced-repetition method, max 10 minutes a day). Downloaded Maps.me and the Andalusia map in advance—essential. And we used Tricount to track shared expenses with friends—super handy.
What we did/saw:
3 city visits (Seville, Granada, and Cádiz) + Málaga for our friends (we vetoed Córdoba—too many cities for us).
4 white villages (Vejer de la Frontera, Arcos de la Frontera, Grazalema, Ronda) + Tarifa for our friends.
Beaches (Tarifa and Bolonia, Matalascañas, Nerja, Cabo de Gata).
Nature and fun moments: Doñana National Park, a kayaking trip along the rocky coast near Nerja, and the Wild West/animal park in the Tabernas Desert.
A little culture: Río Tinto mines, the archaeological site of Itálica, Columbus’s caravels, Nerja Cave for us, and the Picasso Museum in Málaga for our friends. Plus, seeing the ham-drying process in the Alpujarras (for our friends).
Our highlights
Nerja and the surrounding villages: The rocky coast was amazing, and we loved the kayaking trip, even if the water was freezing for snorkeling. The beaches are sheltered from the wind, the town is charming, and the cave is incredible.
El Rocío and Doñana National Park. El Rocío has a timeless, almost Wild West vibe—we could’ve stayed a day or two. The quiet and pine scents reminded us of the Landes region.
What we didn’t love as much:
Río Tinto mines: Not super exciting, and the guides’ nonstop chatter kind of ruined the "nature" experience.
Our little regrets (for next time):
Forgetting our passports and missing a day trip to Tangier from Tarifa.
Not having an extra day around Nerja to go snowboarding in the Sierra Nevada—just 1.5 hours away (the kayak guide suggested it).
Not spending at least one night in El Rocío to explore Doñana National Park at dawn.
Antequera with the Guadalhorce reservoir and the Caminito del Rey (but it would’ve meant 2 more hours of driving, and we didn’t have the energy).
My general impressions of Andalusia and Spain
Landscapes: A feeling of extreme concentration of a single activity in some areas—endless olive groves, wind farms on the Costa de la Luz (which I thought were well-integrated), rows of buildings along the Costa del Sol (yikes, glad we didn’t stop there), greenhouses around Almería (a shame to have frozen the coast for so many kilometers), and the massive industrial port of Huelva.
What surprised us compared to France was the lack of small hamlets—villages are clearly defined, and people cluster there, leaving vast landscapes without human presence. In France, you find houses scattered everywhere.
Roads: Relatively few tolls. Sure, rest areas aren’t as nice as in France, but the roads are in good condition, and our wallet was happy. The roads are pretty straight with countless bridges and tunnels—the upside (besides fast travel) is that there aren’t many secondary roads disrupting the scenery.
Tourism and activities: A huge variety and richness. Feels like everyone can find something they like, and 15 days barely scratched the surface. It’s amazing how quickly you go from the coast to snow-capped peaks (Sierra Nevada) or from farmland to desert (Tabernas). And the mix of European and Arabic architecture in the same city is really special.
One small regret: Not interacting more with locals. We didn’t luck out with our Airbnbs. But shopkeepers were great—very patient with my broken Spanish! :-)
Overall, I think our choice to stay on the Costa de la Luz and then near Nerja worked well. We could explore pretty easily (even if we logged a lot of kilometers), and the settings were fantastic. The 3 days of total relaxation at Cabo de Gata were perfect.
If you prefer shorter stops, you could try staying in El Rocío (easy access to Seville and great for an early visit to Doñana National Park) or maybe Grazalema for a hike in the mountains (weather-dependent). And of course, Tarifa for a day trip to Tangier or Gibraltar.
Sometimes fantasy and a change of scenery are right near home! I love exploring the four corners of the planet, but there can also be a whole world just a little farther than the end of your street—or even the tip of your nose! So I’ll share with you in pictures the beautiful kermesse of Ath, which we only discovered last August, even though we’re neighbors (we live in Lille).
I could have subtitled this travel journal: "Ferme eut’bouc tin nez va quer eud’dans"; it’s an expression in Picard language, literally “Close your mouth or your nose will fall in,” said to someone who’s amazed—and amazed I was!!!
Ooooooooh, giants!
Oh, how I love them! In the North, we have lots of these giants, like Reuze Papa and Reuze Maman in Cassel, or Gayant, Marie, and their children Binbin, Jacquot, and Fillon in Douai, and many more.
Huh? What? You don’t know what a Géant du Nord is?
Well, it’s a benevolent hero, a legendary figure, a protector, a symbol tied to a city that parades through it, walking and dancing during carnival or the local festival. The tradition is said to have originated in Portugal in the 13th century (at least that’s where we have the first records), then we see them in the Netherlands starting in the 15th century. In the North, the oldest are Gayant and Marie of Douai (16th century), but many new ones have appeared since the 1980s with the revival of carnivals. In practice, it’s a large character (or animal figure) several meters tall; the structure is made of wicker, the body is often papier-mâché, but the head can be wood, as in Ath (lime wood), and the clothes and accessories are made of fabric, leather, and wood. The flared robe (for both male and female giants) allows one or more carriers to slip underneath to move it using only their arms, shoulders, and legs—and even make it dance! There are over 1,500 giants in Belgium and 450 in Hauts-de-France, mostly in the Nord and Pas-de-Calais departments.
In Ath, there are giants—LOTS of them! I’ve never seen so many at once. And each one is carried by only one man at a time (except for Bayard, you’ll see why later), even though the structure weighs over 100 kilos—so the carriers take turns quickly! The Ducasse of Ath and its giants have been inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2008, as part of the "Processional Giants and Dragons of Belgium and France."
What’s more, the Ducasse of Ath is remarkable for its age and local roots; a procession was first mentioned in 1399, and today the many musical groups are still local (Ath and surrounding towns). The event is extremely popular: a good part of the population is there, all generations mixed together. Everyone knows the groups, floats, and giants, and each has their favorite! Originally, religious groups paraded, illustrating episodes from the Bible or the Golden Legend. Gradually, the parade became secular and kept evolving by adding new giants, historical figures, or allegories linked to local history (Ath, Belgian Hainaut, Belgium).
Finally, the beautiful floats are all pulled by magnificent draft horses, and that’s extraordinary! The town council itself rides in fine carriages that close the parade.
To wrap up this long introduction, know that the Ducasse of Ath lasts several days, but the highlight is the highly codified procession that takes place on the 4th Sunday of August (actually, the procession passes twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon).
So, let’s go!
On this Sunday, August 26th, we’re in Ath in the early afternoon to see the procession. What a popular enthusiasm! Everyone is wearing the city’s colors (purple, yellow, and white), often with a twisted fabric necklace. Everyone is happy, smiling, from the giggling toddler to the sprightly centenarian sipping beer with her rosy-cheeked cousin and the pretty freckled blonde niece. People call out to each other, laugh, hum, and congratulate each other all around.
People start positioning themselves at strategic spots along the route—wider areas where the giants stop to perform a dance to the tunes of the brass bands accompanying them. And there are brass bands—at least one per giant and float!
The wait passes quickly in this joyful atmosphere. Suddenly, the music grows louder, and here comes the first giant at last! It’s the "two-headed eagle," with a child (a real one) sitting safely on a little chair.
Present in the procession since the late 17th century, it originally had only one head (normal, right?) and accompanied the tailors’ guild. It gained a second head during the royal visit of 1854 (go figure why!). It’s 3.30 meters tall and weighs 115 kilos (without the child). All the men you see in white are carriers taking turns.
Its dance consists of spinning the bird around—you’d think that little kid up there must be getting dizzy!
Next is the "Neapolitan fishermen’s boat." It’s a magnificent float representing a ship, with handsome sailors clinging to its rigging. This float first appeared in the parade in 1856.
It’s followed by a human giant on stilts: "Saint Christopher of Flobecq," holding a flowered staff and carrying Christ on his shoulders (this time, not a real child!). It appeared in the 19th century, then disappeared from the procession before being reintroduced in 1976.
Now here come the "Blues," dressed in French uniforms. This group is the heir of the former cannon-arquebusier company, and they punctuate their parade with gun salutes!
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
A little sneak peek?
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
Ooooooooh, giants!
Oh, how I love them! In the North, we have lots of these giants, like Reuze Papa and Reuze Maman in Cassel, or Gayant, Marie, and their children Binbin, Jacquot, and Fillon in Douai, and many more.
What’s more, the Ducasse of Ath is remarkable for its age and local roots; a procession was first mentioned in 1399, and today the many musical groups are still local (Ath and surrounding towns). The event is extremely popular: a good part of the population is there, all generations mixed together. Everyone knows the groups, floats, and giants, and each has their favorite! Originally, religious groups paraded, illustrating episodes from the Bible or the Golden Legend. Gradually, the parade became secular and kept evolving by adding new giants, historical figures, or allegories linked to local history (Ath, Belgian Hainaut, Belgium).
To wrap up this long introduction, know that the Ducasse of Ath lasts several days, but the highlight is the highly codified procession that takes place on the 4th Sunday of August (actually, the procession passes twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon).
It’s followed by a human giant on stilts: "Saint Christopher of Flobecq," holding a flowered staff and carrying Christ on his shoulders (this time, not a real child!). It appeared in the 19th century, then disappeared from the procession before being reintroduced in 1976.
