Discussion · VoyageForum

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Original post

Larsay

GlobetrotterHanoi · 9,717 posts

2010-03-07

J’ai bien écrit « vus par Larsay », donc « subjectifs » ; par conséquent, ce poste invite uniquement les commentaires courtois ! 😏

SAPA

Pour embêter mon ami Fabworld, 😏 je suis allé passer 5 jours à Sapa, et n’ai pas regretté une minute.

Ce que j’ai aimé :

- Le cadre, magnifique. Ce n’est pas pour rien que les français avaient baptisé la région « Les Alpes tonkinoises » !

- Les vendeuses en costume tribal, H’mongs (costume noir) et Dao (grande coiffe rouge). Les râleurs qui se plaignent d’un harassement ne comprennent visiblement pas que la vente de produits artisanaux est la principale ressource de ces gens, pauvres et qui ne bénéficient que d’une récolte de riz par an (sauf dans la vallée longée par la route de Lao Cai). Un « non merci » avec un sourire suffit généralement ; sinon, vous dites « toi co roy » (prononcer « toï co zoï » - J’en ai déjà) et le manège s’arrête. J’ai d’ailleurs observé de nombreux touristes qui s’amusaient beaucoup à être entourés de locaux, tout le monde bavardant et riant ; hélas, j’ai également remarqué que les râleurs mal élevés étaient souvent des français, ce qui ne m’étonne plus depuis longtemps : en 11 jours entre Sapa et Bac Ha, j’en ai rencontré ma dose ! 😠

- Le grand choix d’hôtel. J’en ai visité beaucoup par curiosité. Voici mes préférés :

- BUDGET : Le Friendly Hotel, qui mérite bien son nom. Jeune patron très sympa et attentif à ses clients, excellent restau décoré comme un bistrot européen, et 12 chambres pour tous les prix : $10 (vue sur l’arrière), $15 (fenêtre ou balcon vue vallée et montagnes) et $20 (grandes chambres balcon même vue). Toutes les chambres ont un sèche-cheveux, la télé et un minibar (ce dernier pas dans celles à $10). Terrasse sur le toit avec tables et chaises longues, Internet gratuit. Location de motos et VTT ($10 – Même prix pour les 2 car les vélos reviennent souvent en mauvais état – ou ne reviennent pas du tout vu l’état des pistes).

- PLUS CHER : Le Holiday Sapa, ex-Royal View (attention : le Royal View est maintenant plus loin, à gauche avant le marché), qui méritait également ce nom vu que l’hôtel est à flanc de montagnes face au massif du Fansipan, donc vues époustouflantes imprenables de toutes les chambres. $30 (40 pour 3) pour une petite chambre avec fenêtre, $50 (60 pour 3) pour de grandes chambres avec balcon + fenêtre et cheminée, $55 (70 pour 3/4) avec balcon, et $80 (100 pour 3/4) pour des suites de 2 pièces avec une énorme terrasse.

- POUR LES AMATEURS DE CHALETS : un norvégien a repris une ancienne maison coloniale et l’a transformée en une copie conforme d’un Relais de campagne de luxe bien de chez nous, le Chapa Garden : 4 chambres très élégantes avec balcon (2 petites à $65, 2 grandes à 80) ; seul problème : pas de triple, il faut ajouter un lit supplémentaire à $15. Je n’y ai pas mangé, mais on dit le restaurant vraiment gastronomique. Jardin-terrasse. A noter qu’avec 4 chambres seulement, il est demandé de garantir la réservation avec une carte de crédit.

- Le grand choix de restaurants. On mange mieux à Sapa qu’à Hanoï, et c’est tout de même sympa de pouvoir déguster une excellente cuisine italienne un soir (le Delta), une aussi délicieuse indoue le lendemain (le Bombay), de la succulente viande d’Australie/Nlle Zélande le surlendemain (le T-Bone Steak), et de la cuisine locale le dernier jour (Chapa Restaurant), le tout dans la même rue et sans avoir à négocier son passage entre tous les tarés de Viets en moto de Hanoï.

- Le trekking. Alors là, j’ai été bien content, car j’ai constaté ce que je savais déjà : que l’on peut passer des journées entières de trekking autour de Sapa sans rencontrer un touriste (contrairement à ce qu’affirment tous les râleurs, qui sont d’ailleurs hélas beaucoup plus nombreux à écrire dans le Forum que les « bien-contents ! »). Même pour aller à Ta Van, mon ami guide Cédric nous a amené sur une piste empierrée qui part à gauche de la route goudronnée 1,5 km après Sapa ; on monte un long col (vues époustouflantes des montagnes et des hordes de touristes de la vallée) pour arriver dans un petit village Dao ; avant la dernière maison, on prend une petite piste à gauche qui continue a longer la vallée, et on arrive sur un large promontoire rocheux sur lequel sont disséminés ce que je savais exister par centaines dans toutes les vallées autour de Sapa : de gros rochers lisses couverts de pétroglyphes dont les plus anciens datent du XIe siècle ; preuve que nous sortons tous du même « tonneau », l’un est un homme stylisé avec un soleil en guise de tête : comme on retrouve la même figurine dans le Hoggar et le Tassili des Ajjers au Sahara, dans les Andes, et sûrement ailleurs, les fondamentalistes auront du mal à m’expliquer que…. n’est-ce-pas ? On arrive très haut au-dessus de Ta Van et descend à travers les rizières en terrasses ; retour par la vallée à pied ou par la route en moto-taxi («30 000 dong).

- Mes 3 amis guides (2 français et un suisse) de Sapatrek. Je ne les connaissais que comme–ça ; je viens de passer 5 jours avec eux et je peux dire que, contrairement à ce que prétend un certain membre du Forum –sans les connaître comme d’habitude ! ils connaissent très bien la région, et pour cause : ils sont mariés –ou en voie de…- avec des locales et parlent leur langue (Olivier m’a soufflé à parler et le H’mong et le Dao couramment au marché), et leurs femmes, qui parlent anglais, sont guides également. D’ailleurs, pour un trek de 2 jours, Olivier vous emmène carrément dans la maison de ses beaux-parents Dao à 3km de Ta Phin, et vous serez donc les seuls du coin ! Donc, pour le trekking, je recommande Sapatrek, de la même façon que je ne le ferais pas si quelque chose clochait !

Ils ne sont pas encore équipés pour des treks de 4-5 jours et plus, qui demandent un service logistique relativement important. M. Vu Van Huy de Trekking Adventure, avec lequel j’ai longuement bavardé, vous organise ça sans problème : cafeofsmiles@gmail/com – (84) 203 872 037 ; il parle anglais impec.

Ce que j’ai moins aimé

- La gueule rébarbative des vendeuses du marché, qui ne sont pas des H’mongs mais des Viets. Elles ne se plaisent visiblement pas à Sapa. Personnellement, je serais enchanté qu’elles retournent dans leur Delta ! Allez du marché couvert où elles sévissent au marché en plein air H’mong/Dao de la place de l’église, et vous me direz qui sont adorables et qui sont tout le contraire. J’ai d’ailleurs remarqué, a Sapa comme à Bac Ha, que la grande majorité des Viets sont suprêmement méprisants avec les locaux, qu’ils considèrent visiblement comme des sauvages habillés de nippes bizarres (j’ai assisté à Sapa aussi bien qu’à Bac Ha à de nombreuses scènes que mes contradicteurs ne pourront certainement pas nier). Un grand nombre ne sont pas beaucoup plus polis avec les touristes !

- Le bordel à la gare de Lao Cai. Visiblement, les « autorités » locales n’ont pas encore compris que le tourisme était une grosse source de revenus : les employés sont aimables comme des portes de prison locale, la plupart ne parlent pas un mot d’anglais, et toutes les annonces au haut-parleur sont en Viet ; j’ai passé 2 heures d’attente à secourir des touristes complètement perdus là-dedans, y compris 2 jeunes qu’une employée revêche dirigeait vers le mauvais train avec un aplomb remarquable. En plus, ils cadenassent la porte du quai entre deux trains et la plupart restent sur le quai pour ne pas être embêtés par les touristes perdus dans ce bazar. Visiblement, on dérange !!!!!!!! A noter que les portes des toilettes des wagons sont verrouillées 🤪 , donc bien prendre ses précautions avant .

Pour les fortunés, je signale que la société LIVITRANS a un train de luxe avec des cabines VIP de 2 lits (et un bar commun) pour 1 140 000 dongs et les autres de 4 lits à 420 000. Horaire : Hanoï-Lao Cai : départ 20h40, arrivée 5h : Lao Cai-Hanoï : départ 19h30, arrivée 4h30. livitrans115@vnn.vn

Les minibus Lao Cai-Sapa sont maintenant à 50 000 dong, les taxis à 300 000.

Pour ceux qui veulent louer une moto, M. Hai, très sympathique et parlant un anglais impec, diplômé de l’école de tourisme de Hanoï, et propriétaire du 2e restaurant à gauche de l’hôtel Thien Hai sur la place de la gare, loue des motos 125cc (Honda, Yamaha, Minsk) pour $10 par jour. Très sympa, ils vous gardent vos excès de bagages, vs offre une douche, ne vous fait pas payer l’Internet, et on n’y mange pas mal du tout pour pas cher. 0912 6600 030. Comme je suis gentil, si vous voulez louer une moto, vous me contactez et je vous le fais de Hanoï (tout de même plus sûr que de France).

Si vous devez coucher à Lao Cai, le Thien Hai, juste à droite de la gare, est fastueux, mais 450 000 dong pour une supérieure et 890 000 pour une grande suite. Sinon, tous les hôtels autour de la gare se ressemblent (le Terminus est OK). Il paraît qu’ils servent surtout d’hôtels de passe aux Viets locaux, les bars qu’il faut pour ces demoiselles se trouvant à la sortie de Lao Cai en allant sur Sapa. Vous ne pourrez pas dire que je ne vérifie pas tout (sauf les demoiselles) !!!!!

BAC HA

Alors, j’ai été soufflé ! Rien à voir avec Sapa pour un tas de raisons :

- Pas de touristes en semaine, à part quelques aventuriers. Ils arrivent le samedi soir ou le dimanche vers 10-11h pour le marché du dimanche (et repartent vers 14-15h).

- Des paysages époustouflants, complètement différents de ceux de Sapa. Les montagnes sont beaucoup moins hautes (point culminant 1800m alors que le Fansipan est à 3148m), donc, à perte de vue, leurs flancs sont couverts de terrasses à riz et maïs. J’ai passé 3 jours stupéfait du travail de Titan réalisé par les H’mongs Fleurs ; quel peuple admirable de courage !

- Le marché du dimanche. Je m’attendais à un Disneyworld avec un touriste pour deux h’mongs ; pas du tout ! C’est tout simplement renversant ! Imaginez des milliers de femmes habillées d’un costume époustouflant : ample jupe tout en minces bandes de tissu multicolores, corsage en tissu chatoyant mauve ou noir, et gilet/turban avec les mêmes bandes multicolores (plus des bijoux de toute sorte en argent) ; le gilet de certaines est couvert de perles de verre et/ou de résilles. Il faut de 4 à 6 mois pour faire un costume complet. Les hommes sont bien moins attrayants : habillés tout en noir, et beaucoup ont de sérieuses têtes d’alcoolique, ce qui ne m’a pas étonné du tout après avoir goûté à l’excellent alcool de maïs local (meilleur que l’alcool de riz de Sapa), qui doit faire au moins 40°. Donc, il y a beaucoup de touristes, mais ils sont noyés dans la masse. Gigantesque marché où on vend de tout. C’est surtout pour les locaux une occasion de se retrouver (il faut voir les ripailles dans les immenses restaurants ; ayant auparavant vu les étals de boucherie, je me suis abstenu !). Parmi toutes ces H’mongs, vous verrez quelques très belles femmes, grandes, minces, élancées, au fin visage, et habillées d’un très élégant pantalon noir, veste noire avec une mince ceinture rouge, et une petit turban multicolore à dominante rouge : ce ne sont pas des H’mongs, mais des Dao Kim Mien.

- Les balades à faire aux alentours. Pour faire une fois plaisir à mon ami Fabworld, j’ai loué une moto. C’est lui qui a raison et j’ai eu tort (pour une fois ! 😏) : se balader en moto dans les montagnes, c’est unique !

Voici le tour que j’ai fait le 1er jour : prendre la route qui monte sur Si Ma Cai (aucune pancarte indiquant « Can Cau », SMC est la principale bourgade avant la Chine) ; à 6km sur le long col montant sur Can Cau, piste avec panneau indicateur sur la droite montant au village de Lung Phin : elle est bonne sur 800m, après, c’est la galère. J’ai donc continué la route. Quelques kilomètres plus loin, nouvelle piste à droite avec panneau « Xa Lung Sui – 5km » : prenez-la, elle est bonne et les paysages ont magnifiques. Retour sur la route. Vous verrez sur la gauche une sorte d’esplanade avec un immense panneau en béton « Welcome to Si Ma Chai » : une piste prend sur la gauche : vous la prenez au retour pour un « trek » époustouflant. Continuer la route jusqu’à Can Cau (moche, mais il paraît que le marché du samedi est très chouette). Continuer ensuite jusqu’à Si Ma Cai –les panoramas deviennent extraordinaires. Curieuse ville où la vietnamisation va bon train (contrairement à ce que prétend un certain membre de ce Forum : il doit être aveugle, vu que, où que vous alliez en pays H’mong, tous les business et l’administration sont au main des Viets, à part quelques locaux-potiches dans l’administration, sans aucun pouvoir de décision, pour la forme). Grosse bourgade avec un énorme développement immobilier en train, destiné à y installer tous les Viets possibles et imaginables. A noter un hôtel presque fini, le Hong Ngung (tel : 0974 384 044), élégant si on en juge par le lobby de faux marbre blanc : chambres à 160 000/200 000 et 300 000 ; il faudra acheter un permis à Bac Ha pour y séjourner. Retour sur Can Cau et prendre la piste à droite du panneau en béton (petit panneau « Ta Van chu 2 km »). Alors là, j’ai été soufflé ! Vous continuez la piste après Ta Van Chu, jusqu’à ce que vous arriviez à un T : tout de suite avant, tourner à gauche au coin d’une maison avec 2 côtés en mur blanc ; la piste retourne sur Bac Ha parmi des paysages presque aussi époustouflants que ceux de Dong Van-Mao Vac, mais je vous préviens, certains passages sont très durs, complètement défoncés dans les descentes. C’est tellement extraordinaire que j’ai remis ça le lendemain !

2e jour : en grand historien, j’avais toujours rêvé d’aller à Pha Long. Pourquoi ? C’était le QG d’un personnage hors du commun, le général H’mong Chao Quang Lo.

L’épopée du général Chao Quang Lo

Au lendemain du coup de force japonais du 9 mars 1945 –massacre des garnisons françaises, sauf celles qui ont pu s’échapper en pays H’mong (où elles ont été receuillies au péril de la vie des locaux) ou en Chine (où les américains les ont désarmées et enfermées dans des camps sordides en tant que « Vichystes » alors qu’ils venaient de se battre comme des lions contre les Japs), les H’mongs locaux ont élu des comités régionaux chargés de l’administration, dont l’un, celui de Pha Long, dirigé par Chao Quand Lo. Les japs s’étant conduits comme à leur habitude lorsqu’ils sont arrivés là-haut, il organise la lutte armée et tient la région après l’évacuation des japs.

Lorsque les français ont évacué toute la Haute Région, de Lao Cai à Cao Bang, après le désastre de la RC4 en octobre 1950, les H’mongs ont refusé de nous suivre. Le Vietminh est arrivé et ne s’est pas beaucoup mieux conduit que les japs. Chao Quang Lo, après avoir essayé de leur expliquer en vain que les H’mongs n’avaient rien contre le Vietminh et reconnaîtraient une indépendance sous leur contrôle, mais tenaient à ce que ce soient les H’mongs qui administrent leur région, il n’a eu d’autre choix que de reprendre les armes –qu’il avait cachées. Le Vietminh a attaqué Pha Long le 30 octobre 1950, et a pris une énorme volée, Chao Quand Lo se révélant un extraordinaire chef de guerre. Il avait d’ailleurs à l’époque un jeune lieutenant qui se révèlera aussi talentueux dans « l’Art de la Guerre », au Nord Laos envahi par les Viets, le célèbre général Van Pao.

Ravitaillé par les français, Chao Quang Lo ne cesse de battre les Viets à plate couture ; en désespoir de cause, ceux-ci n’ont plus que le choix de demander aux chinois de les aider (la Chine était à l’époque la grande alliée du Vietminh). Voilà donc toute la région envahie par une nuée de sauterelles chinoises. Les H’mongs en ont massacré des milliers dans d’atroces batailles -les chinois ont fini par baptiser CQL « Le dragon terrestre »- mais ont succombé sous le seul nombre, et Pha Long a finalement été pris fin mars 1952 (donc après 3 ans de guerre féroce – quels guerriers, ces H-mongs !).

Chao Quang Lo s’est alors réfugié dans les montagnes et a continué la lutte. Il est mort d’une façon horrible en avril 1952. Les chinois avaient appris qu’il avait trouvé un petit chinois de 3 ans, abandonné et couvert de gale, et l’avait adopté. Ce fils, Tach Pao, avait plus de 20 ans quand les chinois l’ont persuadé de trahir son père adoptif, sous la promesse qu’ils le reconnaîtraient comme « Roi des H’mongs » ; il leur a donc indiqué la cachette de son père, qui a succombé après s’être battu comme un tigre et avoir failli rompre l’encerclement ; bien entendu, les chinois se sont ensuite débarrassés du fils.

Même maintenant, Chao Quand Lo est une légende parmi les H’mongs, à l’instar de son ancien lieutenant Van Pao. Ce dernier vit dans une ferme du Montana et a été récemment mis en prison pour ‘activisme’, vu qu’il protestait contre l’épouvantable massacre des H’mongs du Nord Laos, à coup de bombes, napalm, et gaz asphyxiants. Ca doit être pour le remercier des immenses services qu’il a rendus aux américains pendant la Guerre du Vietnam !

Hélas, je n’ai pas pu y arriver. La route est absolument épouvantable à partir de Si Ma Cai, et débouche sur la large vallée encaissée de la rivière Song Chay, où un grand viaduc en béton est en construction ; j’aurai pu traverser en bateau, mais il y avait encore 18km à faire. Prévu dès que le pont est fini, en passant une nuit à Si Ma Cai. Du coup, je suis retourné sur la piste de Ta Van Chu, aussi émerveillé que le 1er jour.

Les hôtels et restaurants de Bac Ha

- Le Sao Mai, longtemps le seul hôtel de Bac ha, est très bien. Dormir dans l’aile originelle 1, avec de grandes chambres à $20 ; il y a 2 autres ailes, l’une avec des chambres aux fenêtres opaques –une sale habitude au Vietnam, car ni vue ni lumière ($25) - et une toute neuve, complètement impersonnelle (($35). Internet, location de moto ($7), restaurant triste.

Le Sao Mai organise des treks super de 1, 2 et 3 jours où je suis allé en moto.Pour 1 jour, je recommande le Bac Ha-Lung Phin-Ta Van Chu ($20) ; pour 2 jours, le Bac Ha-Ta Van Chu-Lu Than en semaine ($45) et le Bac Ha-Can Cau-Ta Van chu-Bac Ha le samedi (pour le marché de Can Cau - $50).

- Le Cung Fu, tout neuf, et que je n’ai pas visité (pas eu le temps). Il parait qu’il est bien aussi, mais il donne sur des terrains vagues utilisés le jour du marché pour la foire aux animaux : buffles, chevaux, chiens, et oiseaux.

- Budget : Le Ngan Nga, en face du marché. Chambres correctes pour $10, et surtout patrons super sympas, mignonnes serveuses parlant anglais, et le meilleur restaurant de Bac Ha (terrasse sur la rue pour admirer les H’mongs Fleurs tout en se régalant).

- Autre restaurant : le Hoang Nge, juste en face du Sao Mai, dans une jolie maison en bois avec petite terrasse. Le patron, M. Nge, se présente comme l’Office du tourisme de Bac Ha. Il vous fait les résas de train et de bus, notamment le Bac Ha-Lao Cai -50 000 dong : 9h, 12h, 14h 9 (prendre ce dernier pour le train de nuit Lao Cai-Hanoi, mais il y a 4 heures rasantes à passer à Lao Cai avant de se battre à la gare. Taxi : $40).

Je vous signale qu’il y a un bus de nuit tout moderne Bac Ha-Hanoi (180 000 dong) qui part à 21h dans les 2 sens.

Une curiosité à voir à Bac Ha : le « château » du Roi-Chat (Vua Meo). Contrairement à ce qu’écrit le LP et le Routard, il n’a pas été « construit par les français pour complaire au chef H’mong Hoang A Tuong » (ils n’ont pas dû lire les explications en anglais hilarant), mais par ce dernier, un Tay, après avoir hérité de la fortune de son bandit de père, Hoang Yen Chao. Celui-ci, ayant compris qu’il y avait de gros sous à faire dans le coin, a acheté des terres qu’il faisait cultiver par des ouvriers agricoles H’mong Fleurs exploités à mort, et s’est lancé dans tous les trafics possibles et imaginables, dont les armes et l’opium. Le fils s’est fait construire ce grand palais baroque de plus de 10 000 m2, très bien restauré et en passe de devenir un musée local (entrée gratuite).

La plaie intégrale de Bac Ha 😠😕🏴‍☠️

Hélas, il y en a une, et de taille ! Les Viets ont trouvé le moyen d’installer sur la petite colline dominant la ville un haut-parleur qui gueule pendant 1 heure de 7h à 8h, 12h à 13, et 18h à 19h. Comme la ville est dans une cuvette, ça résonne tous azimuths. Même les locaux râlent, mais il n’y a rien à faire !

Pour aller à Bac Ha

- Train de nuit Hanoi-Lao Cai, puis bus public Lao Cai-Bac Ha (ou vous louez une moto chez M. Hai)

- Bus de nuit tout moderne Hanoi- Bac Ha (180 000 dong) qui part à 21h dans les 2 sens.

- Bus Sapa-Bac Ha (ou excursion organisée pour le marché du dimanche, départ de Sapa 7h30)

Je vous signale également que la route qui mène de Lao Cai à Coc Ly (marché du mardi, renommé mais il parait que ça ne vaut pas le détour) est fermée pour cause de construction de barrage (tout le Nord du Vietnam se couvre de barrages : Sonla, Lai Chau, Coc Ly, Ha Giang, etc.) ; le seul moyen d’y aller est de remonter jusqu’à 1km de Bac Ha pour redescendre ensuite 27km jusqu’à Coc Ly.

VOILA !

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

LA Larri Regular ·2010-03-07

Bonjour, Merci pour ce CR complet, très documenté et bien écrit. cela donne très envie d'y aller! larri

MA Mastya Regular ·2010-03-07

de gros rochers lisses couverts de pétroglyphes datant du XIe siècle ; preuve que nous sortons tous du même « tonneau », l’un est un homme stylisé avec un soleil en guise de tête : comme on retrouve la même figurine dans le Hoggar et le Tassili des Ajjers au Sahara, dans les Andes, et sûrement ailleurs, les fondamentalistes auront du mal à m’expliquer que…. n’est-ce-pas ?

C'est quoi que tu veux dire par la, Monsieur Larsay?

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-07

Je veux dire que, etant donne que les anciennes peuplades occupant par ex. le Sahara a l'epoque ou c'etait verdoyant ont grave les meme petroglyphes que les anciens peuples des vallees de Sapa (qui etaient la-bas avant les premiers occupants connus, qui n'etaient pas des H'mongs mais des Lolos), il y a de toute evidence une origine ancestrale commune expliquee par Darwin, le grand ennemi des fondamentalistes chretiens et autres sectes. Mais la n'est pas le sujet principal de ce poste, n'est-ce-pas 😉

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-07

Merci; j'aime bien les compliments 😏, mais ca va pas durer !!!!!!

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

PI Piff13 ·2010-03-07

chouette, j'y vais très bientôt 😉!!!

PI Piff13 ·2010-03-07

- Le bordel à la gare de Lao Cai. Visiblement, les « autorités » locales n’ont pas encore compris que le tourisme était une grosse source de revenus : les employés sont aimables comme des portes de prison locale, la plupart ne parlent pas un mot d’anglais, et toutes les annonces au haut-parleur sont en Viet ; j’ai passé 2 heures d’attente à secourir des touristes complètement perdus là-dedans, y compris 2 jeunes qu’une employée revêche dirigeait vers le mauvais train avec un aplomb remarquable. En plus, ils cadenassent la porte du quai entre deux trains et la plupart restent sur le quai pour ne pas être embêtés par les touristes perdus dans ce bazar. Visiblement, on dérange !!!!!!!! A noter que les portes des toilettes des wagons sont verrouillées 🤪 , donc bien prendre ses précautions avant .

Est-ce que c'est la même panique pour acheter ses billets de train Hanoi-Lao Cai ou c'est assez clair à la gare ? Merci Anne-Laure

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-08

Votre hotel a Hanoi se fera un plaisir de les acheter pour vous (ils touchent une comm) donc pas besoin d'aller a la gare pour les acheter. D'aileurs, les htls font tout : resas trains, bus de nuit, excursions (y compris Along) car chaque htl a un bureau d'agences dans son lobby.

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

MA Mastya Regular ·2010-03-08

OK, tu as raison c'est pas le sujet de ce poste mais c'est interessant aussi d'echanger sur la culture. Juste un point : tu dis que les premiers habitants des hautes vallees de Sapa ne sont pas des Hmong (ca, c'est sur) mais des Lolo. J'aimerai bien savoir quelles sont tes sources la-dessus, car selon moi, les premiers habitants du coin furent plutot de langue thai, comme les ancetres des Giay d'aujourd'hui, alors que les Tibeto-Birmans sont arrives plus tard, et peu nombreux, non?

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-08

Mais, c'est toujours un plaisir de parler d'une de mes grandes passions, l'Histoire, avec un membre du Forum !

J'ai bien ecrit a propos des Lolos "les premiers occupants connus", donc...Ces petroglyphes existaient quand ils se sont installes en petit nombre dans la region.

Donc, pour les details, VOILA !

En 1924, un francais en convalescence au sanatorium de Sapa decouvre des petroglyphes dans la vallee de la Muong Hoa. Il en informe l'EFEO de Hanoi qui envoie un archeologue russe renomme, Victor Goloubew. Celui-ci parcoure toute la region et decouvre des petroglyphes un peu partout. Il en trouve un avec une inscription en caracteres qu'il croit chinois et envoie a l'EFEO pour etre traduite; c'est en fait du Lolo, proche du chinois, et dit "Troisieme annee Hong-Tche de la grande dysnastie Ming", ce qui correspond a 1490. Elle est beaucoup plus vieille que les petroglyphes, donc on ne sait pas quelle population anterieure les a graves. En fait, des recherches faites par les archeologues de l'Institut de recherches archeologiques du Vietnam datent les plus anciennes du XIe siecle. Ils en ont repertorie 240, mais il y en a surement d'autres. Elles ont toutes ete photographiees et publiees dans un livre-photos couleur tres interressant, que j'ai lu chez mon ami guide Cedric -ce qui explique qu'il peut vous en montrer.

Sources:

- Roches gravees dans la region de Sapa par Victor Goboulew (1926 - Bulletin de l'EFEO) - Rapport entre les gravures rupestres de Sapa et certains faits ethnologiques et prehistoriques de Paul Levy, (BEFEO 1938). D'apres Levy, les pierres representent les terres occupees par les hommes dans les vallees (d'ou les lignes - pistes ? rectangles -rizieres ? etc.) en meme-temps qu'elles prefigurent ceux-ci dans les attitudes qu'ils prennent dans des ceremonies pour evoquer choses et etres d'un prestigieux passe" - Le livre de Cedric, dont je n'ai malheureusement pas note les references - Un vieil article du Gavroche intitule "Le secret des petroglyphes de Sapa" par Pierre Rossion.

Detail rigolo, l'un des petroglyphes, tres grand, represente dans le meme style -tres bien imite- un bodoi avec son casque a l'etoile jaune; date inconnue !!!!!!

Ceci dit, je ne suis pas du tout d'accord avec votre pensee que les premiers occupants du coin etaient de langue thai. Les thais ne se sont jamais installes dans les montagnes, et Sapa est a 1500 m. Ils ont toujours suivi le cours des grands fleuves -Riviere rouge et noire, Mekong, Menam, Salween- pour s'installer dans les plaines et developper leurs rizieres. Ces premieres populations sont des montagnards. Ils se peut que ce soient les memes que les arborigenes de Nouvelle-Guinee.

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

MA Mastya Regular ·2010-03-08

C'est tres interessant. J'ai ete voir le petit musee local vers le village de Ta Van, qui contient des agrandissements des petroglyphes, mais malheureusement donnent peu d'elements d'explication. Celles-ci sont donc les bienvenues. J'ai vu moi aussi le livre chez Cedric de Sapatrek, mais je n'ai pas non plus pris les references. Sur les populations de langues thai, d'accord avec vous qu'elles ne se sont pas installees sur les versants mais dans les vallees. Justement, vous parliez des vallees autour de Sapa, c'est pour cela que j'y ai fait allusion. D'ailleurs, a Ta Van, aujourd'hui, vous trouvez des Hmong en haut du village mais des Giay (de la famille thai-kaddai) en bas non loin de la riviere. Et ces derniers doivent etre installes la depuis fort longtemps. Il est possible en effet que les premiers habitants de la region soient effectivement affilies aux melanesiens, comme en Nouvelle-Guinee (on les reliait aux groupes de Negritos, qu'on trouve dans la peninsule malaise). Mais cela remonte a une prehistoire lointaine. De maniere generale, les groupes autochtones dans le nord de la region sont plutot des Mon-Khmers. On en trouve vers Lai Chau, Son La (Khmou, Mang, Xinh Munh...) mais je ne sais pas s'il y en a dans la province de Lao Cai.

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-08

Ben oui, mais justement, ces gravures rupestres sont de la Prehistoire, donc il est vraisemblable que ce sont les premiers occupants -des Proto-malais et autres a la peau noire que l'on retrouve aussi en Papouasie, Australie, etc. qui les ont gravees

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

FA Fabworld Veteran ·2010-03-08

Ah enfin voila des discussions interessantes !!! Le forum en est pauvre mais riche de meteo, horaires de bus et toutes les conneries habituelles.

Vous devriez vous rendre au coin du feu avec Michel Galey de Pan Hou village, vous auriez la la chance de prolonger votre conversation jusqu au bout de la nuit !!!

J ai eu la chance de faire le Tet avec les Lolo, ethnies en voie d instinction, il y a 2 ans du cote de Bao Lac. Super festif. Un mal de crane le lendemain comme jamais🤪🏴‍☠️

En tout cas merci Larsay pour ton recit.

Lilouvdw Regular ·2010-03-08

Merci Larsay pour ttes ces infos!!!! J'ai lu également en détail le périple que tu as fait au nord ouest et nord est. Je pars en novembre dans le nord du vietnam pdt 3 semaines suivies de 3 sem au laos.

En lisant et relisant plein de postes sur le vietnam je me suis dit que le nord me tentait vrmt plus mais je ne sais pas comment gérer ces 3 semaines pour ne pas courir: j'aimerais aller vers la baie d'along en partant de cat ba, cao bang avec ls 36 lacs, les chutes de ban gioc. j'aimerais aussi aller du côté du lac babe puis vers sapa, bac ha-lao cai et rentrer au laos par la frontière de dien bien phu. Bref, que de choses et avec un pti budget ben un chauffeur sera trop cher....

Que conseillerais tu? au niveau transports je ne réalise pas trop ce qu'il y a moyen de faire surtout que j'aimerais rester qq jours à chaque endroit pour faire des treks dans les alentours.

Merci d'avance pr ts les futurs conseils !!!!

Il faut vivre ses rêves et non rêver sa vie

Satoli Regular ·2010-03-08

Salut Sam!

Le bouquin sur les pierres s'appelle "The Sapa ancient rock field as seen from the angle of plastic arts", publié en 2007 par "The Gioi Publisher". Facilement trouvable au Tourist Information de Sapa pour 25$ (10$ pour ceux qui connaissent les mecs qui bossent là-bas 😏)

Après avoir lâché l'affaire pendant très longtemps, j'ai eu la surprise avec l'ami Larsey de tomber sur un site où il y a une trentaine des ces pierres en granit. Du coup je me suis replongé dans la lecture du bouquin et c'est fort intéressant mais il manque cruellement d'explications sur la significations des dessins. Bref à approfondir...

Ottlnpac Globetrotter ·2010-03-09

Hello,

Excellent "rapport" qui pourra etre utile a beaucoup.

J'ai, de tres loin, prefere Bac Ha a Sa Pa, je n'ai pas de souvenir de ce haut-parleur. Peut-etre est-ce l'habitude d'en avoir partout. On constate neanmoins un effort, ils ne commencent leur bruit qu'a 7 h. Chez nous, c'est entre 5 et 6 h (ca permet de se rendormir😉).

Amities du Sud, Pat

FA Fabworld Veteran ·2010-03-09

Y en a qui se sont se mis a la moto et qui en sont devenus des aficionados !!! 😉

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-09

Fabworld, ne titille pas mon amie Ottlnpac !!!! 😉

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

Ottlnpac Globetrotter ·2010-03-09

Y en a qui se sont se mis a la moto et qui en sont devenus des aficionados !!! 😉

Moi itou, par la force des choses. Ce n'est pas la moto que je n'aime pas, c'est le fait de contrevenir a la loi. Des que possible, je fais la demande d'un permis, je deteste ma situation actuelle "hors la loi".

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-09

Bon, voila l'explication donnee et adoptee par plusieurs archeologues qui connaissent bien ces histoires de petroglyphes, qu'on trouve partout dans le monde :

Goloubew avait remarque que les traits paralleles des premieres pierres qu'il a etudiees a Sapa presentaient une curieuse ressemblance avec les pistes et rizieres de la vallee en contrebas; il en a donc conclu qu'il s'agissait d'un grossier plan cadastral de cette vallee. Cette hypothese a ete renforcee par ce qu'il a trouve ds une autre valle, ou il y avait des rectangles isoles ou rassembles en grappes, joints par des lignes partant ds ttes les directions, resssemblant fort a des rizieres et maisons (rectangles) et pistes (lignes) y conduisant. Pour lui, le mystere restait les autres petroglyphes, notemment les personnages.

Quelques annees plus tard, le celebre philosophe Lucien Levy-Bruhl a publie un monument sur les fetes, croyances et rituels des aborigenes de Nlle Guinee et d'Australie. Ces peuples pensent que le monde mythique est aussi vrai que le monde reel, si bien qu'ils vivent a la fois par les sens (le Reel) et par les reves (Le Mythique). Les populations originelles des vallees de Sapa etant vraisemblablement du meme "tonneau", c'est a partir de ce livre que Paul Levy en a conclu ques les pierres de Sapa representent en un raccourci vivant les terres occupees par les hommes (le Reel), en meme temps qu'elles prefigurent ceux-ci dans les attitudes qu'ils prennent dans des ceremonies pour evoquer choses et etres d'un prestigieux passe (le Mythique)

Autre theorie, beaucoup plus fameuse, celle de chercheurs viets qui y voient une annonce d'un futur deluge destructeur (il parait que beaucoup de vietnamiens y croient. EST-CE EXACT ????), que la revue Le Monde des religions etablit pour 2012 (prenez donc vos precautions 😏 ). Du coup, il parait que beaucoup d'adeptes du millenarisme se pointent a Sapa pour enforcer leur lubie douce au vu des petroglyphes.

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-09

Les pts budgets, ca veut dire les bus publics, et c'est la galere, pas tellement pour aller ds les gds centres (Sapa, Bac Ha, Ha Giang, Cao Bang, etc.) mais pour rayonner apres, a moins de le faire en moto

Il y aussi la solution d'etablir un itineraire en 4x4 et de poster un message sur le Forum pour trouver des VF perts a la partager. Plusieurs VF l'ont fait avec moi (une fois, c'est moi qui les ai mis en rapport - 2 hhommes d'un cote, 2 filles de l'autre - pas de rapport au retour sur ce qui s'en est suivi 😏

Along, ca se fait en excursion organisee arrangee avec l'htl a Hanoi

Tam Coc, ca se fait tt seul en bus public

Sapa et Bac Ha se font facilement (train de nuit pour Sapa -trek- puis minibus Sapa-Lao Cai-Bac Ha et trek a Bac Ha avec l'htl, retour Bac Ha-Hanoi train de nuit de Lao cai ou bus de nuit Bac Ha-Hanoi)

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

FA Fabworld Veteran ·2010-03-09

C est dans ta tete que maintenant tu devrais faire de la moto. Tu decouvrirais des endroits inexplores de ton cerveau qui sont vachement utiles 😏

MA Mastya Regular ·2010-03-09

Interessants developpements, mais, sauf votre respect, quelque chose "cloche" selon moi : vous tirez la conclusion que ce sont des populations proches des Aborigenes australiens (ce qui est un peu different des "Proto-malais", vieille terminologie pour les populations austronesiennes qui ont plus tard essaime dans tout le Pacifique) qui ont grave ces pierres a la prehistoire, et d'un autre cote, vous dites que les plus vieilles datent du XIe siecle?

MA Mastya Regular ·2010-03-09

Salut toi! Ca fait plaisir de te lire!

Lilouvdw Regular ·2010-03-09

en moto? et faut-il être hyper expérimenté ou n'importe qui peut en faire?

Sur 21 jours en étant à Ha noi, baie along et sa pa avec trek aux alentours de bac ha et lao cai, est-ce envisageable? J'aurais vrmt aimé aller également au lac babe et aux chutes de ban gioc: combien de temps cela prendrait-il en bus? et quel trajet est le plus logique et facile? Le 4*4 avec d'autres ça risque d'être un peu complexe car ce voyage fait partie d'un tour du monde de 9 mois et donc nos dates de départ et d'arrivée à chaque endroit ne sont pas fixés.

Il faut vivre ses rêves et non rêver sa vie

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-10

La route logique est Hanoi-Babe-Cao Bang; le pb est le Hanoi-Babe en bus public, c'est faisable mais c'est la galerec'est la galere; a Cao Bang, vs prenez une excursion ds une agence sur Ban Gioc ou vs le faites en moto.

21 jours dans le Nord, c'est IMPECCABLE !

Faire tout en moto est du delire : les Viets n'ont aucun respect du code de la route, les rtes st souvent defoncees, pratiquement personne ne parle anglais ou francais hors des gds centres en cas de pepin, et de ttefacon, c'est illegal sans permis viet, donc, en cas de pepin avec les flics... Des courses de 1-2j ca va, un tour complet, je ne conseille pas du tout (un VF va surement vs expliquer que c'est sans pb; evidemment, il ne fait que ca a longueur d'annee, il connnait tres bien le pays -il vit ici depuis des annees- et il se debrouille pas mal en viet !)

je vois votre truc comme ca:

Hanoi 2-3j Along 2j/1nt excursion organisee (c'estl le + pratique qd on connait pas et ca suffit) Tam coc : 2j (bus public) Hanoi-Sapa: train de nuit Trek Sapa Sapa-Bac Ha : bus public 1/2 j Trek Bac Ha (je vs fais la resa htl + trek 2j) Bac Ha-Lao Cai-Ha Giang : bus public 1j HG-Dong Van-Meo Vac-HG (3j) : moto (mais il y a le pb du permis; "ils" vont essayer de vs imposer un guide) HG-Cao Bang : bus public 1j Ban Gioc : moto 1j CB-Babe : bus public CB-Cho Ra + moto-taxi Pac Ngoi (je vs fais la resa maison d'hotes + bateau, indispensable) 1j Babe (balade en bateau 1j) Babe-Hanoi : bus publics (1j entier de galere)

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

Lilouvdw Regular ·2010-03-10

Merci pour ce super itinéraire, j'y vois enfin plus clair mais par contre j'ai l'impression que ça va vrmt être rude niveau transport....qu'est ce que je pourrai retirer de ce parcours pr éviter trop de transport galère et rester plus lgts à chaque endroit: genre 3 jours au moins a SAPA.

Autre souci, enfin c'est pas un souci juste un impératif géog, je dois passer la frontière à DBF, cb de temps cela met il de hanoi?

N'est ce pas plus court/ facile de faire le parcours ds l'autre sens: d'abord en effet la baie d'along-babe-H giang-sapa- bac ha-lao cai et de là DBF? peut-être que je suis à côté de la plaque et que là les transports sont encore plus galère mais on ne sait jamais...

Pour le circuit en moto que tu proposes : à cb ça reviendrait avec chauffeur ( moto-dop?) et si on y va ( on sera deux en faite) par nos propre moyen , tu parles de routes peu sûres est-ce le cas de HG-Dong Van-Meo Vac-HG? Y a t'il moyen de se débrouiller ss chauffeur et de dégoter dans les environs des guest-house ou autre?

Merci bcp pour ton aide, pcq le lonely ça n'aide pas bcp à se rendre compte de ce qui est faisable question tps...

Il faut vivre ses rêves et non rêver sa vie

Lilouvdw Regular ·2010-03-10

hello larsay

de nouveau moi juste pour te dire que j'ai lu ttes tes expliquations sur tam coc et je pense bien y rester 3 jours...ça à l'air tellement beau!!! J'irai bien chez Loan d'ailleurs, tt ceux qui y sont passés n'en disent que du bien!

Il faut vivre ses rêves et non rêver sa vie

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-03-11

DBP-Hanoi, c'est une horrible route; en bus public, ca prend 14h ! Comme tu veux aller a Sapa, le truc a faire, c'est Dien Bien-Lai Chau (1 nuit au Lanh Anh) et Lai Chau-Sapa en bus public + trekking 2-3 j avec mes amis francais de Sapatrek (sapatrek.jimdo.com). Puis Sapa-Lao Cai en minibus, louerune moto a Bac Ha pour se ballader ds le coin, retour Bac Ha Lao cai minibus, Lao Cai-Ha Giang en bus public, louer une moto a HG, etc.

Je n'ai pas ecrit que la rte de Dong Van etait dure (en fait, elle est bonne) mais que il y a un pb avec le permis. L'htl que j'utiise a Dong Van est ferme; il en reste un, sans e-mail et aucun anglais parle. Il faudra faire une resa a l'avance, sinon...

Je ne connais les prix des motos avec chauffeur.

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

MA Mahiska Regular ·2010-03-14

Bonjour Larsay, merci beaucoup pour ce compte-rendu bien détaillé qui donne envie! Je pense qu'il me sera très utile.

BA Barefoot Veteran ·2010-04-08

Je viens tout juste de découvrir ton "rapport" sur Sapa/Bac Ha - je ne traîne pas régulièrement sur VF - que je trouve excellent. Heureuse de constater que ce que nous avons vu de Sapa et Bac Ha en Octobre dernier n'était pas un coup de chance. Je n'ai pas très bien compris pourquoi Sapa et Bac Ha étaient si décriés par certains sur VF, ni compris pourquoi ils appelaient ça "un cirque à touristes". On s'est promené dans les alentours de Sapa sans rencontrer un seul touriste, on a adoré l'ambiance du marché de Bac Ha un dimanche matin, pas vu de gosses faisant des acrobaties pour mendier quelques dongs ni de gosses au garde à vue dans les écoles des villages que nous avons traversés. Bien au contraire, on a partagé une récré avec les gamins, dessiné avec eux, partagé un déjeuner avec une Dao et que dire du cadre magnifique des rizières en terrasses... On revient de Mai Chau, superbe cadre aussi mais en toute subjectivité, on a préféré la vallée de Ta Van.

Y a-t-il d'autres "rapports" que tu as postés que je n'ai pas lu 😉? Pardon, cliquer sur "rechercher" d'abord avant de poser des questions...

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-04-09

2600 messages aux dernieres nouvelles ! Cliquez sur mon nom, puis sur "tous les messages de Larsay"; sinon, cliquez en bas de la page sur "Grandes boucles NE et NO du Nord Vietnam"

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

JU Julief79 Regular ·2010-05-05

Bonjour Larsay,

Encore une fois, un post qui me sera fort utile :-)

Je pensais faire (en octobre..je sais c'est loin :)

Nuit: train de nuit Hanoi -Lao Cai, minibus Lao Cai - Sapa, Jour 1 et 2 : puis une rando de deux jours avec les guides de Sapatrek (je sais pas trop encore quoi..j aimerais bien aller loin de la masse touristique, et faire quelque chose d assez sportif..) et nuit chez habitant, et retour en fin de journée à Sapa. Puis, je pensais me rendre à Bac Ha le soir même (fin pm, début de soirée). Nuit à Bac Ha. Jour 3: Marché de Bac Ha.. flaner autour, je sais pas trop encore..voir sur place. Puis bus pour Lao Cai en fin de journée, et train pour Hanoi.

Mes principales questions...(tout autres conseils sont aussi bienvenus :-)

Pour me rendre de Sapa à Bac Ha, y a t il encore des bus en fin de journée? Ou est-ce faisable en moto taxi? Une idée des prix, et du temps que ça prend?

Le nouveau bus dont tu parles entre Bac Ha et Hanoi, wahou, c'est tentant! Ça évite de poireauter à Lao Cai. Est-ce que ces billets s'achètent à l'avance à partir de Hanoi, ou je dois faire sur place à Bac Ha? Le nom de la compagnie? Et bon..question idiote...mais les bus de nuits , ça ressemble à quoi comme confort comparé au train de nuit? (ceux que j'ai pris dans mes précédents voyages étaient tous de bus 'normaux' avec des sièges..dure nuit hehe)

merci encore!! Julie

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-05-06

Pour ce qui est du trekking sportif, vs pouvez faire confiance a Cedric de Sapatrek !!!! Il me fatigue !

Sapa-Bac Ha, vs ne pouvez pas le faire apres le trekking, qui se ptermine vers 15-16h. C'est donc la moto-taxi (3 heures); comptez 250 000 dong (approx. 10 euros)

Ce sont des bus avec couchette; c'est impec ! Ca se reserve a Bac Ha avec l'hotel.

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

JU Julief79 Regular ·2010-05-06

super! merci! je vais donc prendre le bus couchette :-)

quand vous dites qu'il il n'est pas possible de voyager vers Bac Ha après la rando , vous voulez-dire en bus, ou ce n'est pas possible même en moto taxi? j'aurais pris un moto taxi direct après la rando.

en fait, je préferais dormir à Bac Ha, car les villages hyper touristiques, j'aime pas trop, et aussi, ça permet de visiter le marché tôt, avant l'arrivée des touristes vers 10-11h..

merci encore :D

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-05-07

Je voulais dire en bus. En moto-taxi, c'est OK. Partir vers 15h de Sapa car trop dangereux la nuit et il fait nuit vers 18h30 au Vietnam. Si vs avez besoin d'un htl a Hanoi, faites-moi signe, j'en connais des super a 2 pas du lac Hoan kiem, ou j'habite

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

Renaudsechet Globetrotter ·2010-05-09

Merci Larsay de m'avoir donné envie de trainer a bac ha je recomande l hotel hoang vu a bac ha, chambres qui valent le prix que j ai payé 150000VND, mais toutes les prestations étaient à des tarifs raisonnables et de qualité: ex: 12$ l'excursion accompagnée au marché de can cau, rando le midi, repas tres simple et balade sur la piste défoncée de ta van phu, location de moto comprise, guide tres sympa, petit bonus avec un anniversaire dans une auberge apres ta van phu (préparations de fête, auxquelles nous avons été adorablement conviés. on peut dormir dans cette auberge, mais il faut réserver a bac ha et obtenir un permis préalable, probablement à cause de la proximité de la frontière chinoise) j ai aussi bien aimé le resto du proprio, , a 100m de l hôtel, pour ses petits plats parmi les meilleurs de bac ha, et aussi pour nous avoir laissé squatter les fourneaux, pour le plaisir du partage et sans arrière pensée mercantile: j'étais avec deux amis thai, et deux des cuisinieres étaient du village thai de bac ha, on a juste préparé un tom kha gai, assez proche du canh chua vietnamien et passé un délicieux moment plein de complicité et d'hospitalité

au village thai de bac ha, on a eu droit aussi à un rincage de gosier de compétition pendant un mariage, d'abord arrêtés par les enfants, on a eu droit au tour des tables, aux petits plats et aux culs secs ravageurs, mes amis thais réalisant qu'a une pointe d'accent et quelques subtilités près, ils parlaient la même langue que dans leur dialecte isan natal, dialecte lui meme tres proche du lao

Apres avoir lu tes remarques larsay, j avais voulu prendre la piste de ta van phu, mais j'avais rebroussé chemin au bout de 30m avec déjà des remords vis a vis du loueur de moto tellement je trouvais la piste mauvaise, le même loueur qui nous a emmené le lendemain en revenant du marché de can cau, faire près de 20km sur cette piste en rejoignant les hauteurs de ban pho. les motos ont du prendre un coup de vieux, mais aucune n'a bronché, pas une crevaison, pas le moindre pépin technique, et l'excursion semble assez rodée ( pour les 12$ par personne, on était 5, sur 3 motos, debut avril 2010)

Merci encore Larsay de partager tout ça, ça reste parmi mes meilleurs souvenirs du vietnam

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-05-09

Merci du merci, ca fait bien plaisir entre 2 recriminations ou accusations debiles de "papier-colles" !!!! C'est vrai que M. Nge mene bien son affaire.

Il y a effectivement de mauvais passages sur la piste de Ta Van Chu, mais a cote de celle allant de Si Ma Cai a Phan Lang, c'est du gateau. J'ai toujours ete etonne de ce que les motos japs peuvent endurer sans broncher !

Bon, la prochaine fois, qui va surement arriver, vs me faites signe et on se voit a Hanoi; je connais beaucoup de choses que je n'ecris pas. Demain, je refais la RC4 Langson-Dong Khe-Cao Bang, apres avoir retrouve cet apres-midi les formidables fortifications francaises de Langson, concassees par les chinois en 1979. Impressionant ! Petit rapport suit of course 😏

PS. Les rincages de gosier de mariages, je connais, j'ai eu droit a un a Tam Coc : 450 invites, 40 litres d'alcool de riz et chaque table a tenu a ce qu'on fasse un "cul-sec" 🤪 Mais avouons-le, ca ne vaut pas les p'ts punchs blancs 🙂😉😛😏 (mon record, c'est 23 au restau Sud-americain a St Francois, fort bien passes avec une enorme cote de boeuf d'Argentine et une montagne de frites. Ca existe toujours ?), J'etais tres ami avec Eric Rotin et Jean-francois Rozan le proprio du Hamak; ils st tj en vie ?

Bon a bientot j'espere

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

JU Julief79 Regular ·2010-05-09

Merci pour le compte rendu! Moi aussi, je me suis fait tenter. Je vais rester un jour de plus à Bac Ha pour faire une excursion dans le coin.

J'ai contacté M Nghe par email, pour faire un tour de 1 jour vers Ta Van Chu. Le tarif qu'il me demande est 30$. C'est pas un peu excessif? De plus, pour le bus, il dit que c'est 17$, alors que Larsay parlait de 180 000 dong. Bon, perso, 17$ je trouve ça très peu cher...mais tout ça mis ensemble, je me demande..serait-il en train de tester mes capacité financière??

quand pensez vous? c'est réglo comme prix?

merci! :D

Renaudsechet Globetrotter ·2010-05-09

pour ta van chu, comme je l ai dit, on était 5 sur trois motos, soit au total 5x12=60$, ceci explique peut être cela j ai trouve mr ngh. plutôt moins roublard que la moyenne, mais vu la moyenne, ce n est pas difficile, pour le bus, je pense qu il est gourmand (si ça correspond au même trajet)

JU Julief79 Regular ·2010-05-09

merci, je vais voir sur place donc, et négocier un peu.. pour le bus, c est le bus couchette pour Hanoi.

Renaudsechet Globetrotter ·2010-07-11

quelques photos, prises avec mon telephone, en attendant que je m'occupe de celles de meilleure qualité prises avec un vrai appareil http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=162579&id=736932513&l=25d5d5d924

MI Mikabu Regular ·2010-07-23

Bonjour, Combien de jours êtes vous restés à Sapa et à quelle heure êtes vous arrivés au marché de Bac Ha ? Normalement on n'a que 2 jours pleins à consacrer à cette région + bien sûr les 2 nuits en train (ou pourquoi pas en bus ), ce n'est pas beaucoup et on hésite encore sur l'organisation pour en profiter au mieux. Ou bien on rajoute un jour mais du coup il faut rabioter ailleurs. Combien de jours est-il intéressant de rester à Hanoi ? Au fait aviez vous fait ce tour dans le nord seuls ou par une agence ? Merci pour votre reponse Cordialement Michèle

BA Barefoot Veteran ·2010-07-23

Bonjour,

2 jours à Sapa me paraissent un peu courts pour en profiter pleinement et je ne suis sans doute pas la bonne personne qui pourrait vous conseiller. Je passe rarement par des agences, sauf quand on a été faire un magnifique tour sur la baie d'Halong en passant par l'ile de Quan Lan, parce que je me contente surtout de passer par des amis qui ont des amis et parler viet facilite les choses. On avait pris un train de nuit, arrivée à l'aube à Lao Cai un dimanche matin, de là après un petit dejeuner tranquille on est allés directement au marché de Bac Ha. Il devait être à peine 8 heures du matin. Donc pas de tourisme en masse et chaleur supportable. Une rencontre géniale avec Khang, guide à ses heures perdues, qui se trouvait sur le marché pour des achats personnels. Nous avons ensuite séjourné à Sapa et avons rayonné autour de la ville pendant 3 jours en compagnie de Khang et sa famille avant de revenir sur Hanoi. Pour ceux qui disent que les vietnamiens sont de sacrés roublards et ne sont pas amicaux, Khang ne nous pas demandé un seul Dong, il a fallu batailler à chaque repas pour qu'il accepte notre invitation et il s'est toujours débrouillé pour nous trouver le meilleur moyen de transport possible au prix le plus bas.

Je connais mieux Saigon que Hanoi mais je pense que Larsay se fera un plaisir de vous répondre en ce qui concerne Hanoi et de vous diriger vers une agence compétente.

Bon voyage.

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-07-23

2 jours dans la region? . Je ne vois pas trop l'interet de faire un tel trajet pour y rester 2 jours. Enfin ! De plus, depuis mon dernier passage, il y a Sapa un tres erieux probleme recent avec les flics locaux qui se resume ainsi : interdit de sortir de Sapa sans un guide viet certifie -sous peine d'asmende et retour manu military a la case depart-, donc en passant par une agence locale, qui met tout le monde sur la meme piste (d'ou la legende qu'il "y a trop de monde a Sapa"). Actuellement, finies le ballades hors pistes avec mes amis francais de Sapatrek (ils ont du fermer leur site) ou avec des guides h'mongs ou Dao.

Ceci dit, c'est quand meme a faire. A votre niveau de temps, le mieux est de prendre un trek tout organise (AR train de nuit, transferts Lao Cai-Sapa, guide, hotel, Repas). Tous les hotels de Hanoi peuvent vs arranger ca sans probleme.

Bac Ha ne vaut le coup que pour le marche du dimanche (que vs pouvez faire en excursion organisee de Sapa) ou, QUAND ON A DU TEMPS et l'esprit d'aventure, pour faire du trekking (sensationnel) au nord de la ville.

Hanoi : 2j minimum. Si vs me donnez votre budget, je peux vs recommander ce qu'il faut

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

AM Amalia79 ·2010-08-01

Bonjour,

Desole de vous interpeller pour des details aussi bassement pratiques, mais l'un ou l'une d'entre vous pourrait-il m'eclairer sur les conditions climatiques actuelles regnant respectivement a Sapa et Bac Ha? Y'a-t-il d'ailleurs une difference notable entre les 2 dans ce domaine?

Nous sommes actuellement en train de remonter le Vietnam du Sud au Nord, ou nous avons surtout rencontre du temps (tres) beau et (tres tres tres) chaud. Bien sur, nous nous y attendions, mais pas a ce point je l'avoue. 😊

Merci beaucoup par avance. 🙂

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-08-01

"L'un" fera parfaitement l'affaire ! 😏 Il fait chaud, et il fait + chaud a Bac Ha qu'a Sapa car c'est moins haut et dans une cuvette alors que Sapa est sur une pente. Ceci dit, c'est pas le Sahara, n'est-ce-pas ? Me contacter absolument si vs voulez faire du trekking because probleme a Sapa et indispensable organiser a l'avance a Bac Ha

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

RA Raminou1305 ·2010-08-06

pour les pierres de Sapa et des environs y'a un spécialiste de l'EFEO qui bosse dessus depuis une dizaine d'année : philippe lefailler http://www.efeo.fr/biographies/notices/lefailler.htm

LA Larsay Globetrotter ·2010-08-06

Merci de l'info. Je le connais, j'ai passe pas mal de temps dans son bureau a regarder tout cela de plus pres, et j'ai la video qui a ete faite avec lui Cordialement Jacques

Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!

Yoxi37 ·2010-09-04

Bonjour !

Tout d'abord merci à Larsay pour toutes ces explications détaillées sur le Nord. Venant de la frontière chinoise à Lao Cai, je n'avais pas encore de guide à mon arrivée au Vietnam (il m'attendait bien sagement en poste restante à Hanoi, super plan !), et j'ai utilisé le poste de Larsay comme guide officiel.

MON EXPERIENCE DE BAC HA

Je ne suis pas allée à Sapa, parce que j'avais déjà passé pas mal de temps dans les hautes montagnes du Gansu au Yunnan chinois, donc envie de redescendre un peu sur terre... Mais j'étais curieuse de rencontrer des H'mong, donc direction le marché de dimanche à Bac Ha après une nuit dans la chambre au-dessus du restaurant de Mr Hai. Concernant Mr Hai, c'est en effet un contact à avoir, sympa et de bon conseil, et quand on est un peu perdu en arrivant dans un nouveau pays, c'est vraiment agréable !

Bac Ha : chambre double à 100.000 VND, dans l'hôtel juste à gauche du Ngan Nga, très correct vu le prix. Location de moto à 130.000 VND/jour.

Nous avons adoré la petite ville de Bac Ha, animée le dimanche et somnolente la semaine (le midi il n'y a plus personne dans les rues, les gens roupillent ou regardent la télé). En effet pas du tout touristique, les touristes du dimanche sont perdus dans la foule. Par contre on les voit de trop loin à cause des flashes sous le nez des H'mong : tout le monde prend des portraits des H'mong sans leur demander leur avis et personnellement ça me met mal à l'aise... Mais bon ça n'a pas l'air de les déranger outre mesure, ils doivent être habitués. N'empêche, j'aimerais pas qu'un Vietnamien vienne me mettre son objectif sous le nez quand j'achète mon poisson le dimanche matin au marché...

Les gens sont ADORABLES. Depuis une semaine que je suis au Vietnam, aucun problème d'arnaque, contrairement à ce que m'avaient raconté des gens croisés en Chine. Evidemment on paye plus que les vrais prix vietnamiens, mais on a plus d'argent qu'eux, de toute évidence... Et en marchandant, on fait descendre les premiers prix exorbitants à des tarifs raisonnables, tout ça dans la bonne humeur, avec le sourire ! Après l'absence totale de sourires pendant un mois en Chine, ça fait tellement de bien...

A Bac Ha, nous avons sympathisé avec une serveuse du Ngan Nga, Hué, qui nous a emmené voir le spectacle des écoliers avant le retour à l'école. Naïf, frais et festif comme nos kermesses de juin dans les maternelles : une soirée donc on se souviendra.

La balade à moto conseillée par Larsay : que du bonheur, une journée magnifique. La piste principale est facile, celle de Tan Va Chu beaucoup moins, il faut avoir fait un peu de moto avant pour s'en sortir. Je la déconseille vraiment aux débutants ! Mais quand on se débrouille, c'est le paysage le plus beau de toute la route à mon avis. Et sur le chemin, tout le monde nous sourit et nous crie "hello" de bon coeur. On s'est abrités chez des gens pendant une averse, on leur a donné des petits gateaux en échange d'un morceau de toit et toute la famille est sortie pour nous voir, même si nous ne pouvions pas communiquer.

Bus Bac Ha/Hanoi : Un conseil, le réserver auprès de l'hôtel même s'ils prennent une commission de 20.000 VND / billet, parce qu'on a essayé de prendre les billets nous-mêmes et le bus était déjà plein... Donc bloqués un jour de plus. Quant au confort : des couchettes avec couverture, par contre difficile de dormir tout du long parce que ça tourne sec sur la route ! Mais pour un bus de nuit, c'était grand luxe.

A l'arrivée à Hanoi, faire attention aux taxis : nous en avons pris un dont le compteur tournait inégalement et à une allure folle et nous l'avons arrêté avant d'arriver à destination. Nous avons discuté le prix, un peu en colère, et le conducteur tout tremblant nous a fait une ristourne. Première impression d'Hanoi un peu rude, mais depuis aucun problème. Il faut juste savoir quels taxis prendre : ça doit être indiqué dans les guides (mais à ce moment-là le mien était encore en poste restante !).

Voilà, première semaine de ma vie au Vietnam, et je peux dire que j'ai rarement été aussi agréablement surprise par un pays. Je pense que la suite sera à la hauteur et que ce sera dur de partir.

Charlotte

http://carnetdegares.canalblog.com

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Attila 18 hours ago

Amazing Kyrgyzstan!

This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.

But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rentals kept making me postpone the project.

And then, everything fell into place—I told myself, now’s the time!

Preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.

A bit of Kazakhstan? Not in the end.

The south or not? Yes, in the end.

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To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela on this destination (the guide has been updated since).

---/---

You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?

Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.

Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek! (‘Beefsteak’ for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)

You’ll find here a post with some practical info.

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Muriel18 18 hours ago · Attila

Two weeks under the Puglia sun

After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we're hoping this time the sun will be out in Puglia. It’s not looking great since the weather isn’t great across Europe at the start of May.

Saturday, May 16: This time we’re flying from Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight schedules, and proximity all worked for us. The airport (Ryanair) was recently redone... but it’s not very well organized—there are very few seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms are pay-to-use!!! The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari with a slight delay.

We quickly pick up our rental car, a very locally styled Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian (high)ways... and their unique driving quirks (notably, the countless road signs in towns and along roads seem to be purely decorative 😏, and Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).

About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli. The owner isn’t there, but they left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch. We check out the property:

And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:

Sunday, May 17: After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start with the inland areas. After a hearty breakfast,

we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs. We easily find free parking on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.

We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).

From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.

Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.

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Geotravelch 18 hours ago

Trek dans les montagnes Fann

J’ai eu la chance d’effectuer un trek de 10 jours dans les montagnes Fann en juin 2026 et voici quelques impressions de ce magnifique voyage.

Les montagnes Fann sont facilement accessibles depuis Douchanbé. Il faut compter 4h30 de route (par exemple jusqu’à Ruknobode). De là il y a encore une heure trente pour arriver au départ des treks.

Prendre un guide local est très appréciable. Cela permet d’avoir des apports culturels, d’être certain de ne rien manquer et de pouvoir profiter pleinement des marches et des paysages.

Il y a plusieurs treks possibles avec des niveaux de difficultés différents. Le nombre de jours est également modifiable. La haute saison démarre à la mi-mai et se termine en octobre. Les paysages sont variés et offre chaque jour de nouvelle choses à voir.

Nous étions accompagnés de 3 ânes, qui portaient la tente, la nourriture et nos affaires personnels. Il est également possible de « réserver » des ânes supplémentaires pour porter les enfants en bas âge.

Les principaux points d’intérêts étaient les lacs Koulikalon (7 lacs), Ziyorat & Chukurak, les cols aux alentours et les villages de Guytan, Gazza et de Vorui Chérif (Saint Vorû). Ce dernier est vraiment typique. C'est un village sacré, perché à 2200 mètre d’altitude et il offre de splendides vues sur les montagnes. De plus, il a conservé un cachet historique. Il est entouré de montagnes, de jardins terrasses magnifiques et peut être le point de départ de nombreuses marches.

Mon guide, Rémy (Fayziddin), parfaitement bilingue peut être facilement atteignable (+992 93 804 88 77). Il habite à Saint Vorû et organise des voyages sur mesure.

Bon voyage et à disposition en cas de questions.

https://www.facebook.com/share/193EQTes95/ https://www.instagram.com/fayziddinfakhriev?igsh=dmFtN3UyaHc5eWRq

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RichardXI 18 hours ago

Page by Page on the Assisi Way – 1,200 km on Foot

Preamble

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In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?

And the answers? Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan. Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable. But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give. Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom. A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain. But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.

Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing. And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality. When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual. No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.

This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.

Now, all that was left was to walk. April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.

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Zigomar67 18 hours ago

Argentine and Chilean Patagonia from El Calafate to Ushuaia

This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one. So, here we go...

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Fabhyène 2 days ago · Chalembert

3 weeks in Laos, at a relaxed pace

This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... Now that I’ve just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to pay tribute to this destination we fell in love with.

Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!

I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to get her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can sneak away at any time without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!

Anyway, since I like maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I’m still working), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.

In broad strokes, it was very classic:

We first “settled in” in Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just measured in km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping at the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We finished with the Bolaven Plateau.

A few practical tips: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having collected our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. It was quick, but we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too many in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t leave from Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), for Bangkok and then Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. However, there’s now a high-speed train (TGV) between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!

With that introduction out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang

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Holigirl 3 days ago · Solene40

South Africa in safari mode: February/March 2026

Hi everyone,

With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo. But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip. And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.

So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays: - 3 nights in St Lucia - 1 night in Hluhluwe - 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini) - 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini) - 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti) - 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve - 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie

All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.

I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).

To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.

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Montagnard74 4 days ago

Turkey 2026: Riviera, Antalya, and Cappadocia

Hi everyone!

If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!

Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with: Zero preparation. Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.

Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?

The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!

The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.

So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!

So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!

A little sneak peek?

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Calisson94 5 days ago

Return to Swedish Lapland: Trek on the Kungsleden and Crossing the Sarek

After summer 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, here I am back in Swedish Lapland in summer 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, to tackle part of the Kungsleden trail too.

After much hesitation, my companion Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which is, from what we’ve read, stunning but very crowded (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: Sarek! This park is known as Europe’s last true wilderness—sounds like a dream, right?! The downside of this choice is that there’s no way to resupply in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long treks either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part with the Sarek in mind. Oh well, we’re motivated!

Our plan is to start in Abisko (classic), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official route and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad). But at least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to bail on Sarek.

That adds up to 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day + 1 buffer day for weather hiccups.

So if you’re interested, come follow our overstuffed backpacks!

08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta) 08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri 08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja 08/06 – just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo 08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + round trip to Djalson Lake 08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure 08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden) 08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure 08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure 08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - Sarek or no Sarek? 08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen Coming up: 08/13 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – Above the Skarki hut

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Caroki 5 days ago

Three weeks in Albania with two older teens

We went to Albania in August 2025. Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.

I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees. We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.

Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors. You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned. The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents. We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance. After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine. In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots. In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.

And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations... Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.

One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.

On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.

I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring. So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings. We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.

Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.

After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold. We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength... Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes: 🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman 🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...

🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great. After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!

🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër. After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!

But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing. In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!

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Attila 5 days ago · ReneVoyageur

Albania in Autumn Colors

A new work assignment means our vacation dates can't stay the same.

We had planned to go to the Canary Islands, but flight prices are skyrocketing with this new holiday schedule.

So, I’m looking for an alternative to Gran Canaria and El Hierro and found two round-trip flights with Wizz Air to Tirana.

398 €, including baggage and seats—perfect!

Plus, the departure and return times are great, which is pretty rare for a low-cost flight!

All that’s left is to rent a car, plan the route, and book accommodations.

With two weeks, we’ll have to make some choices!

Here’s the final itinerary: Shkodra (2 nights), Valbonë (3 nights), Tirana (1 night), Lake Ohrid (1 night), Korçë (1 night), Përmet (1 night), Gjirokastër (1 night), Himarë (2 nights), Berat (2 nights), and Krujë (1 night).

A mix of countryside and small towns, a bit of the Mediterranean, and some mountains!

Late October isn’t the best season, so let’s keep our fingers crossed for the rest...

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6cha38 6 days ago

Our family trip from Denver to Yellowstone – a recap

Hi there,

I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.

First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!

We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning. And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.

For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.

Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.

With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.

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Fabhyène 6 days ago

Draw Me Your Japan...

Hi there!

I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.

Let’s start with the shotengai...

Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that dot city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.

It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the "vintage" vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a colorful mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to the nearby Asakusa Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area). In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)

In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:

And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:

To be continued...

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Attila last week

Storm in the Canary Islands

15 days across Gran Canaria, El Hierro, and a dash of Tenerife under the storm Thérèse!

The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...

(The version without discussions is here)

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Bibouns51 last week

Off on a winter adventure in the American West!

Day 1 – February 14

We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...

But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.

"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?

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Montagnard74 last week

CAPE VERDE 2025: 3 weeks, 4 islands.

And we still haven’t seen everything! Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.

I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.

As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!

Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.

So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:

Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)

São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...

Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.

And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...

That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)

Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!

It starts here:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10790234;a=10790234

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Songsam 2 weeks ago

Far from the daily grind*

Hello, Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...). Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand. For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken. Comments and questions are welcome.

* train ** interiors or exteriors

All aboard!

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Jojoone1 2 weeks ago

From the Awakening to Travel to Morocco in the 90s

As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s. Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid. Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.

Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.

Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.

After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.

Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!

That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.

Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.

The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.

Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*

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Elis 2 weeks ago · Djalma

9-Day Trek in the Balkans

Hi there, Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo). It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people. At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.

Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.

Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range. Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.

Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.

I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France. Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.

Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.

The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.

We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.

The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it. Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead. We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!

That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉

To be continued... 😉

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DrCarter 2 weeks ago · Djackx67

Two-week family trip to Colombia in August with 8-year-olds

Hi everyone,

I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.

Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá

We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.

Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento

The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air. We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems. We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.

Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley

This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect. That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.

Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views

The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet. In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.

Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall

We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill. We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.

Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales

Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.

Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs

In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.

Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games

We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.

Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast

Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.

Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena

We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.

Day 11 – Road to Barú

A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.

Day 12 – Beach and relaxation

A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.

Day 13 – On to Santa Marta

Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.

Day 14 – Tayrona Park

We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.

Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá

Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.

Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip

Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.

That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle. The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia. Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.

If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change: - I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly. - Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate!

Antoine

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Gaura 2 weeks ago · Fabhyène

Visiting Bologna in Photos

Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany. Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).

Another building near the square:

But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.

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Muriel18 2 weeks ago

Gran Canaria... a trip that wasn't exactly thrilling

Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory? In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination). So, read on... or don’t .

Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).

This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.

We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less). This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro). We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call! Whose fault is it? Storm Thérèse’s! Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...

But even without Thérèse...

Saturday 21/03 Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia. The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down. It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.

We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter. We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.

It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier). So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours. We found a huge parking lot... empty. The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕. So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.

The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon. As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!

Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon! Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded . The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.

So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete. The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛). Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked! Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.

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Jcpo 2 weeks ago · AlineP

A Week in Lanzarote in Late September

Lanzarote Travel Journal

Trip Planning My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers. I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.

The Trip

Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22 Departure It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station. The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots. We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible. We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher. We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it. I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes. We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel. After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room. A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view. It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want. Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day. Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive. A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery. We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all. In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.

Tuesday, September 23 After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park. The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds. Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride. We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park. It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot. We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos. At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam. The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock. On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.

Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.

Wednesday, September 24 We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast. When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer. The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers. You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes. At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics. Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua. This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique. There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water. Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water. Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics. Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon. We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano. A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano. When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring. We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.

Thursday, September 25 After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano. This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater. Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment. The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks. You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach. Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products. We then head to the famous Papagayo beach. The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue. From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road. Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover. We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches. We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks. The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful. We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.

Friday, September 26 We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit. Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time. The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here. We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops. We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice. Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting. We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.

Saturday, September 27 After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works. Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down. We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95. We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach. At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.

Sunday, September 28 We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious. We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away. We return the rental car and go to the airport. A long line to check in our luggage. The return flight is on time. A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station. We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases. The rental is between the old port and the train station. Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor. The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.

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Jojoone1 2 weeks ago · Songsam

All Over Thailand

You can post your personal photos in the following thread: https://voyageforum.com/forum/quelque-part-en-thailande-d10655574/

This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style. All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.

All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert. However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.

I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it. I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.

There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.

I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.

Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course. Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious. Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs. It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons. That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.

It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.

You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.

Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field. A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.

Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.

You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.

If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.

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Puma2A 2 weeks ago

In MIKUMI and SELOUS, Southern Tanzania (June 2024)

Hi everyone,

I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular. This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.

In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit. I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual. Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up... We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...

As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??

The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.

In Addis... "our" A-350.

.....

After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.

By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later. Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.

Welcome on board:

Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:

I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias?? As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...

On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!! Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.

It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge. Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...

Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.

Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??

A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:

Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!

When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me. I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉

...

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Olive842 3 weeks ago

From Avignon to Casamance Without Flying

Hi there,

Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.

It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected. Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel. I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability. So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.

I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:

Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras

Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya

Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat

Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott

Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou

To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog: From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations

Happy reading, and safe travels!

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Sinforosa 3 weeks ago

Back in Tunisia (live account)

Hi there,

On this forum, I shared my first trip to Tunisia from mid-February to early March (https://voyageforum.com/forum/impressions-tunisiennes-en-direct-d11460662/), a stay I enjoyed so much that six weeks later, I’m back in Tunisia for a full 15 days (I return on April 27).

This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.

In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.

Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while. When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).

The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing. The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.

I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.

Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.

The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).

At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.

TO BE CONTINUED....

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Amnesix77 3 weeks ago · Sandrita24

Andalusia with family (and two families) by car, late April 2019

Hi everyone,

Just back from two weeks in Andalusia, and I wanted to share this experience with you—maybe it’ll help with planning a trip. I’ll start with a quick recap in this post and try to add photos and day-by-day details later (still sorting through them). Hope I don’t bore you too much! 😎

Trip details:

April 20 to May 4, 2019:

7 days on the Costa de la Luz (El Puerto de Santa María) in an Airbnb,

4 days at the junction of the Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical (Salobreña) in an Airbnb,

3 days at Cabo de Gata for some rest at a campsite in Los Escullos.

Two families of four, each with our own car: three 9-year-old boys and a 6-year-old girl. One family was more into city exploration (not us, but we’re working on it), and the other preferred relaxation and nature (that’s us). We speak a little Spanish.

Over 5,000 km, including 2,500 km for the round trip from Carcassonne.

The weather: Variable, but we expected better for this region in late April. The first week on the Costa de la Luz was sometimes chilly (< 20°C), and the second week was warmer but not excessive (< 25°C). At least we didn’t get much rain!

Our budget: Around 2600 € per family:

700 € for accommodations, about 50 € per night,

1000 € for meals and restaurants. We usually spent around 50 € per family at restaurants—we ate out for lunch (except for 2–3 picnics) and cooked at home in the evenings, trying to be back by 6 PM.

600 € for activities: Río Tinto, a flamenco show, visits to the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar, Oasis Park with meals, and a kayaking trip.

300 € for gas and tolls.

Preparation: A few months ahead with bookings for accommodations and tickets for the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar. We used a few travel guides—I like the *Évasion* guide for initial planning. *Géoguide* was okay, but our friends’ *Routard* was the most useful. We also spent three months brushing up on Spanish with Mosalingua (a great spaced-repetition method, max 10 minutes a day). Downloaded Maps.me and the Andalusia map in advance—essential. And we used Tricount to track shared expenses with friends—super handy.

What we did/saw:

3 city visits (Seville, Granada, and Cádiz) + Málaga for our friends (we vetoed Córdoba—too many cities for us).

4 white villages (Vejer de la Frontera, Arcos de la Frontera, Grazalema, Ronda) + Tarifa for our friends.

Beaches (Tarifa and Bolonia, Matalascañas, Nerja, Cabo de Gata).

Nature and fun moments: Doñana National Park, a kayaking trip along the rocky coast near Nerja, and the Wild West/animal park in the Tabernas Desert.

A little culture: Río Tinto mines, the archaeological site of Itálica, Columbus’s caravels, Nerja Cave for us, and the Picasso Museum in Málaga for our friends. Plus, seeing the ham-drying process in the Alpujarras (for our friends).

Our highlights

Nerja and the surrounding villages: The rocky coast was amazing, and we loved the kayaking trip, even if the water was freezing for snorkeling. The beaches are sheltered from the wind, the town is charming, and the cave is incredible.

El Rocío and Doñana National Park. El Rocío has a timeless, almost Wild West vibe—we could’ve stayed a day or two. The quiet and pine scents reminded us of the Landes region.

What we didn’t love as much:

Río Tinto mines: Not super exciting, and the guides’ nonstop chatter kind of ruined the "nature" experience.

Our little regrets (for next time):

Forgetting our passports and missing a day trip to Tangier from Tarifa.

Not having an extra day around Nerja to go snowboarding in the Sierra Nevada—just 1.5 hours away (the kayak guide suggested it).

Not spending at least one night in El Rocío to explore Doñana National Park at dawn.

Antequera with the Guadalhorce reservoir and the Caminito del Rey (but it would’ve meant 2 more hours of driving, and we didn’t have the energy).

My general impressions of Andalusia and Spain

Landscapes: A feeling of extreme concentration of a single activity in some areas—endless olive groves, wind farms on the Costa de la Luz (which I thought were well-integrated), rows of buildings along the Costa del Sol (yikes, glad we didn’t stop there), greenhouses around Almería (a shame to have frozen the coast for so many kilometers), and the massive industrial port of Huelva.

What surprised us compared to France was the lack of small hamlets—villages are clearly defined, and people cluster there, leaving vast landscapes without human presence. In France, you find houses scattered everywhere.

Roads: Relatively few tolls. Sure, rest areas aren’t as nice as in France, but the roads are in good condition, and our wallet was happy. The roads are pretty straight with countless bridges and tunnels—the upside (besides fast travel) is that there aren’t many secondary roads disrupting the scenery.

Tourism and activities: A huge variety and richness. Feels like everyone can find something they like, and 15 days barely scratched the surface. It’s amazing how quickly you go from the coast to snow-capped peaks (Sierra Nevada) or from farmland to desert (Tabernas). And the mix of European and Arabic architecture in the same city is really special.

One small regret: Not interacting more with locals. We didn’t luck out with our Airbnbs. But shopkeepers were great—very patient with my broken Spanish! :-)

Overall, I think our choice to stay on the Costa de la Luz and then near Nerja worked well. We could explore pretty easily (even if we logged a lot of kilometers), and the settings were fantastic. The 3 days of total relaxation at Cabo de Gata were perfect.

If you prefer shorter stops, you could try staying in El Rocío (easy access to Seville and great for an early visit to Doñana National Park) or maybe Grazalema for a hike in the mountains (weather-dependent). And of course, Tarifa for a day trip to Tangier or Gibraltar.

More details and photos to come soon!

Laurent

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Fabhyène 4 weeks ago · Sinforosa

She Sees Giants Everywhere! (Ducasse of Ath, Belgium, August 2018)

Sometimes fantasy and a change of scenery are right near home! I love exploring the four corners of the planet, but there can also be a whole world just a little farther than the end of your street—or even the tip of your nose! So I’ll share with you in pictures the beautiful kermesse of Ath, which we only discovered last August, even though we’re neighbors (we live in Lille).

I could have subtitled this travel journal: "Ferme eut’bouc tin nez va quer eud’dans"; it’s an expression in Picard language, literally “Close your mouth or your nose will fall in,” said to someone who’s amazed—and amazed I was!!!

Ooooooooh, giants! Oh, how I love them! In the North, we have lots of these giants, like Reuze Papa and Reuze Maman in Cassel, or Gayant, Marie, and their children Binbin, Jacquot, and Fillon in Douai, and many more.

Huh? What? You don’t know what a Géant du Nord is?

Well, it’s a benevolent hero, a legendary figure, a protector, a symbol tied to a city that parades through it, walking and dancing during carnival or the local festival. The tradition is said to have originated in Portugal in the 13th century (at least that’s where we have the first records), then we see them in the Netherlands starting in the 15th century. In the North, the oldest are Gayant and Marie of Douai (16th century), but many new ones have appeared since the 1980s with the revival of carnivals. In practice, it’s a large character (or animal figure) several meters tall; the structure is made of wicker, the body is often papier-mâché, but the head can be wood, as in Ath (lime wood), and the clothes and accessories are made of fabric, leather, and wood. The flared robe (for both male and female giants) allows one or more carriers to slip underneath to move it using only their arms, shoulders, and legs—and even make it dance! There are over 1,500 giants in Belgium and 450 in Hauts-de-France, mostly in the Nord and Pas-de-Calais departments.

In Ath, there are giants—LOTS of them! I’ve never seen so many at once. And each one is carried by only one man at a time (except for Bayard, you’ll see why later), even though the structure weighs over 100 kilos—so the carriers take turns quickly! The Ducasse of Ath and its giants have been inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2008, as part of the "Processional Giants and Dragons of Belgium and France."

What’s more, the Ducasse of Ath is remarkable for its age and local roots; a procession was first mentioned in 1399, and today the many musical groups are still local (Ath and surrounding towns). The event is extremely popular: a good part of the population is there, all generations mixed together. Everyone knows the groups, floats, and giants, and each has their favorite! Originally, religious groups paraded, illustrating episodes from the Bible or the Golden Legend. Gradually, the parade became secular and kept evolving by adding new giants, historical figures, or allegories linked to local history (Ath, Belgian Hainaut, Belgium).

Finally, the beautiful floats are all pulled by magnificent draft horses, and that’s extraordinary! The town council itself rides in fine carriages that close the parade.

To wrap up this long introduction, know that the Ducasse of Ath lasts several days, but the highlight is the highly codified procession that takes place on the 4th Sunday of August (actually, the procession passes twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon).

So, let’s go!

On this Sunday, August 26th, we’re in Ath in the early afternoon to see the procession. What a popular enthusiasm! Everyone is wearing the city’s colors (purple, yellow, and white), often with a twisted fabric necklace. Everyone is happy, smiling, from the giggling toddler to the sprightly centenarian sipping beer with her rosy-cheeked cousin and the pretty freckled blonde niece. People call out to each other, laugh, hum, and congratulate each other all around.

People start positioning themselves at strategic spots along the route—wider areas where the giants stop to perform a dance to the tunes of the brass bands accompanying them. And there are brass bands—at least one per giant and float!

The wait passes quickly in this joyful atmosphere. Suddenly, the music grows louder, and here comes the first giant at last! It’s the "two-headed eagle," with a child (a real one) sitting safely on a little chair.

Present in the procession since the late 17th century, it originally had only one head (normal, right?) and accompanied the tailors’ guild. It gained a second head during the royal visit of 1854 (go figure why!). It’s 3.30 meters tall and weighs 115 kilos (without the child). All the men you see in white are carriers taking turns. Its dance consists of spinning the bird around—you’d think that little kid up there must be getting dizzy!

Next is the "Neapolitan fishermen’s boat." It’s a magnificent float representing a ship, with handsome sailors clinging to its rigging. This float first appeared in the parade in 1856.

It’s followed by a human giant on stilts: "Saint Christopher of Flobecq," holding a flowered staff and carrying Christ on his shoulders (this time, not a real child!). It appeared in the 19th century, then disappeared from the procession before being reintroduced in 1976.

Now here come the "Blues," dressed in French uniforms. This group is the heir of the former cannon-arquebusier company, and they punctuate their parade with gun salutes!

To be continued: the giant Samson!

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Mathews last month · Voyajou

A Brief A to Z of Peru

Foreword This text has been proofread many times. Sorry if some points in this A to Z have already been covered on this forum. Text and drawings by the author.

Peru is still a very vast country, with so much to see, and obviously this text can't list all the attractions of the country.

*Abiseo (River) A national park that's very hard to access and doesn’t seem open to visitors. Includes the Gran Pajaten site (see below). Personally, it really sparks my imagination (not visited personally)

*Aguas Calientes the town next to Machu Picchu, more precisely below the archaeological site. As far as I know, you can only get there by train. Reminds me of the market where stalls line both sides of the tracks near Bangkok. I love it

*Altiplano: somewhere the "heart" of the Andes. I was able to trek across it on foot, starting from Caracollo in Bolivia, and of course, it’s vast plains to explore. This is where people live in a very rural way. Andean populations are quite austere compared to those in the lowlands or on the coast. You really have to appreciate the harshness of life to live there. Life is anything but superficial. I set a compass heading and found myself walking west toward the expanse of water near a place called La Joya. For pitching the tent, the nights were still chilly

*Canyon del Colca One of the deepest canyons in the world. Personally, I hiked down and back up on foot. The toughest stretch I’ve ever covered in my life.

*Ceviche More or less the national dish. A marinade of fish, shellfish, and lime. But you can find it in some restaurants in Europe, France, and certainly in Belgium or Switzerland. In the small restaurants of Pisco, you can eat excellent ceviche

*Cerro Sechín: Mostly bas-reliefs. A site little known to travelers in the Casma province. The first vestiges of a pre-Inca civilization with iconography similar to that of Chavín (not visited personally)

*Chan Chan A large city of the Chimú civilization and relatively vast to visit. You can see adobe walls with bas-reliefs. Visit from Trujillo, take a colectivo. Plan for the whole day

*Charango: a small guitar widely used in Andean music

*Chauchilla A necropolis near Nazca where you can see mummies exposed on the ground. YouTubers can do paranormal experiments there. And for anyone wondering about the fate of the soul and body after death, here’s the answer: the body remains after death. You can imagine your own flesh and body exposed to the winds of the Pampa and before eternity... (not visited personally)

*Chavín de Huántar (Lanzón) The site’s appeal lies in its mountainous surroundings, the Lanzón stela, and the sculpted heads on the façades. What few people know is that the Chavín civilization began its expansion centuries before the Incas. Unfortunately, you can’t get too close to see the Lanzón—the day I was there, it was protected by grilles. To get there: minibus from Huaraz or trek from Olleros. Then cross a high pass (over 5,000m). If you do it solo on foot, be careful—the path isn’t obvious from Olleros

*Chullpa: funerary tower, notably at Sillustani in the Lake Titicaca region

*Chimú: pre-Inca civilization whose center was Chan Chan.

*Chola/Cholitas (Bolivia): typical clothing style of women from the Andean plateaus

*Chompa: pronounce it *Chompaaa!* A common term for a wool sweater with vicuña patterns, often knitted from alpaca wool. If you dress like this, it’s a bit kitschy around the edges

*Cuy That one isn’t a guinea pig like in Guyana but an actual guinea pig. During a trip to Peru, I was hiking near a village north of Quillabamba (the terminus of the train line that passes through Aguas Calientes), and I was invited to stay in a house. The family raised a few of these pets. Apparently, the locals eat them. Since I’m not much of a meat-eater, it doesn’t really tempt me. How about you?

*Pacific Coast or how to talk about a place you haven’t visited? Except for the coast near Pisco and San Andrés, I haven’t visited any coastal cities. But that doesn’t mean these places lack interest or poetry. For fans of clichéd images, pelicans, seabirds, and fishing boats appear by the sea.

*Gran Pajaten: also closed to the public. Features anthropomorphic bas-reliefs. (not visited personally)

*Huaca. Visit the Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna, especially near Trujillo. However, you can skip them—Chan Chan is still more interesting. Don’t forget to spend time visiting Chan Chan

*Huacachina A small oasis in the desert near Ica. Yes, we’re talking about an oasis because for those who’ve never traveled to Peru, the coastal strip along the Pacific is almost entirely desert, from north to south. Peru is territorially made up of three different regions: the desert coast, the Altiplano stretching north to south with mountain ranges (the Cordilleras), and the Amazon basin to the east. (not visited personally)

*Inca Kola It’s neither Coca-Cola nor Pepsi but a unique cola with a slightly orange color. Tastes like bubble gum

*Intiwatana: a carved rock shaped like a parallelepiped. Is it a sundial?

*Ballestas Islands: a highlight in Peru, though very touristy. You can only get there by boat from the port of San Andrés, a few kilometers from Pisco. It’s a surreal place to me—actually islets with cavities where sea lions and fur seals live. Since it’s a protected area, you’re not allowed to disembark. Guano is harvested there, which can be used as fertilizer.

*Kuelap: a fortress built by the Chachapoyas people. Rarely visited by travelers. (not visited personally)

*Larco Museum: an iconic museum in Lima with a large collection of pieces from archaeological and pre-Columbian sites. From what I remember, it has many pieces from the Moche civilization. As for the Moche statuettes, the prudish might look away. Probably a veneration of the god Priapus without knowing it.

*Nazca Lines Discovered by German archaeologist Maria Reiche, they stretch for kilometers. The designs in the desert around Nazca depict animals and cabalistic signs. The question I ask myself is why the creators of these lines represented a monkey and a hummingbird—species endemic to the tropical forest, not the desert plains around Nazca.

*Machu Picchu: means "old mountain" in Quechua. There’s also Wayna Picchu. The ruins of the site emerge from a sort of small plateau above Aguas Calientes. When the mist rises above the site and the bend of the Urubamba River, it’s truly magical... Also the starting point of the Inca Trail.

*Coca tea A decoction/infusion of the coca plant, meant to ease altitude sickness or *soroche*

*Chullo A rough translation would be a Peruvian wool hat.

*Moche: a civilization established in the Moche Valley, hence the term *Mochica*. What characterizes this civilization are the distinctive clay pieces representing faces and erotic statuettes

*Papa a la Huancaína A local potato dish

*Pisac: a typical market near Cusco

*Pisco Sour: perhaps the Peruvian equivalent of the *caipirinha* you drink in Brazil.

*Puya Raimondii A Bromeliaceae that still looks like a cactus, endemic to the Altiplano

*Quechua The language spoken by the indigenous people of the high plateaus (as well as Aymara in Bolivia)

*Quipu A knotted string used for counting. Widely used by the Inca administration.

*Sacsayhuamán (Q’enqo, Inca Bath) From Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, take the streets that climb above the city. Sacsayhuamán is called a fortress and is made up of large stone blocks. You wonder how the Incas could cut such huge blocks to assemble them—just like some streets in Cusco. The Q’enqo block is enigmatic; no one really knows what it represents.

*Savia Andina An Andean folk group.

*Tambo (=> Ollantaytambo) The Inca emperor (Atahualpa, Manco Capac) had the mission of controlling a vast empire. An empire that was still very extensive. Hence the importance of these *tambos* or relay stations. Napoleon created the civil code; the Incas invented the *tambos* and *quipus*.

*Tawantinsuyu: the Inca Empire

*Tinku: a warrior dance practiced mainly in Bolivia

*Golden Tumi: a sacrificial weapon. Often featured in Peru travel guides. See illustration

*Terra X: a documentary series from the German TV channel that aired on Arte. Some episodes focused on pre-Inca and Inca Peru. I must have some old recording tapes. In memory of Gottfried Kirchner as a source of inspiration.

*Uros: I checked—it actually refers to the people who live on these floating islands. Even if it’s touristy, it’s a must-visit because it’s incredible how people can live on islets made from nothing. Take the boat from Puno

*Vicuña, llama, guanaco: camelids characteristic of the Altiplano

*Wayna Picchu The young Picchu mountain. In the first minutes of *Aguirre, the Wrath of God*, you see Klaus Kinski—well, Aguirre—making his way along the Inca Trail. Werner Herzog must have broken his back filming those sequences.

*Zampoña: pan flute

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