Voyage 15 jours à Lesbos (Grèce)
by Christianede
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonsoir,
Nous avons choisi d'aller sur Lesvos sans trop se rendre compte . Nous sommes bien au courant de la situation dramatique des émigrés mais sans vraiment réaliser où cela se passe, je voyais cela plus vers l'Italie.Désolée pour mon ignorance impardonnable.Quelqu'un peut-il nous renseigner ? Que faut-il craindre ou non et quelles précautions devons-nous prendre? Est-il quand même possible de se déplacer en voiture sans danger? nous voudrions quand même visiter un peu mais que devons-nous éviter de faire?
J'ai essayé d'avoir quelques renseignements sur les endroits à ne pas rater mais pour je ne sais quelle raison je n'ai pas eu de réponse. j'ai toujours été satisfaite de vos conseils et plus que jamais j'ai besoin d'aide étant donné la situation là-bas. D'avance je vous remercie pour l'attention que vous voudrez accorder à ma requête.
Bien à vous, Christianede
Danger de quoi?? des gens qui ont fui la guerre pour essayer de vivre sans les bombardements? pourquoi ça représenterait un danger pour vous ou pour les autres touristes?? Je ne comprends pas trop. Les réfugiés ne provoquent pas de problème, ils ne volent pas et n'agressent pas les gens. Ce sont des gens comme vous et moi qui veulent vivre en paix et essayer de rejoindre l'Europe pour mettre leur famille à l'abri.
Les précautions à prendre seraient plutot à l'égard des touristes anglais qui vont sur l'ile pour se "bourrer la gueule" et passent leur temps dénudés à déambuler dans les rues et à avoir des attitudes très peu orthodoxes..
Sinon sur Lesvos vous trouverez de l'ouzo Plomari, très connu dans toute la Grèce. Il y a un chateau à visiter, c'est une ile riche en faune et flore (oiseaux sauvages notamment) et aussi un lieu de pélerinage. Elle a également de magnifiques plages et une belle foret où se ballader.
Les précautions à prendre seraient plutot à l'égard des touristes anglais qui vont sur l'ile pour se "bourrer la gueule" et passent leur temps dénudés à déambuler dans les rues et à avoir des attitudes très peu orthodoxes..
Sinon sur Lesvos vous trouverez de l'ouzo Plomari, très connu dans toute la Grèce. Il y a un chateau à visiter, c'est une ile riche en faune et flore (oiseaux sauvages notamment) et aussi un lieu de pélerinage. Elle a également de magnifiques plages et une belle foret où se ballader.
Bonjour,
Elenitsa a parfaitement raison. Les migrants ne sont pas des pestiférés, elle l'explique très clairement et simplement. Il n'y a pas de danger avéré. Elle a aussi raison concernant la fréquentation britannique qui n'amène pas que du beau ou bien...
Lesbos est une île fort agréable avec une hôtellerie digne de ce nom, du moins pour les établissements que j'ai pu fréquenter.
Louez une auto et partez en promenade sans avoir de listes de sites à voir, c'est encore mieux.
Kalo taxidis !
Elenitsa a parfaitement raison. Les migrants ne sont pas des pestiférés, elle l'explique très clairement et simplement. Il n'y a pas de danger avéré. Elle a aussi raison concernant la fréquentation britannique qui n'amène pas que du beau ou bien...
Lesbos est une île fort agréable avec une hôtellerie digne de ce nom, du moins pour les établissements que j'ai pu fréquenter.
Louez une auto et partez en promenade sans avoir de listes de sites à voir, c'est encore mieux.
Kalo taxidis !
Nos parcours jacquaires et romieux ICI
Bonjour,
Elenitsa a parfaitement raison. Les migrants ne sont pas des pestiférés, elle l'explique très clairement et simplement. Il n'y a pas de danger avéré. Elle a aussi raison concernant la fréquentation britannique qui n'amène pas que du beau ou bien...
Lesbos est une île fort agréable avec une hôtellerie digne de ce nom, du moins pour les établissements que j'ai pu fréquenter.
Louez une auto et partez en promenade sans avoir de listes de sites à voir, c'est encore mieux.
Kalo taxidis !
Bonjour Eze et Elenitsa,
Merci pour cette réponse rapide et rassurante.C'est sans doute assez choquant de justement choisir un endroit où il y a tant de misère pour passer ses vacances mais nous n' avions pas réalisé lors du choix.Nous sommes à Petra. Nous comptons louer une voiture et sillonner.J'ai fait une recherche sur les différents endroits à ne pas rater sur internet. Il y a pas mal de choses intéressantes. Pouvez-vous me renseigner sur la possibilité de faire aussi quelques randonnées avec jolis points de vue. Je n'ai pas encore trouvé quelque chose sur internet à ce sujet et cela pourrait me faire gagner du temps si vous connaissez l'endroit.
Bien à vous Christianede
Elenitsa a parfaitement raison. Les migrants ne sont pas des pestiférés, elle l'explique très clairement et simplement. Il n'y a pas de danger avéré. Elle a aussi raison concernant la fréquentation britannique qui n'amène pas que du beau ou bien...
Lesbos est une île fort agréable avec une hôtellerie digne de ce nom, du moins pour les établissements que j'ai pu fréquenter.
Louez une auto et partez en promenade sans avoir de listes de sites à voir, c'est encore mieux.
Kalo taxidis !
Bonjour Eze et Elenitsa,
Merci pour cette réponse rapide et rassurante.C'est sans doute assez choquant de justement choisir un endroit où il y a tant de misère pour passer ses vacances mais nous n' avions pas réalisé lors du choix.Nous sommes à Petra. Nous comptons louer une voiture et sillonner.J'ai fait une recherche sur les différents endroits à ne pas rater sur internet. Il y a pas mal de choses intéressantes. Pouvez-vous me renseigner sur la possibilité de faire aussi quelques randonnées avec jolis points de vue. Je n'ai pas encore trouvé quelque chose sur internet à ce sujet et cela pourrait me faire gagner du temps si vous connaissez l'endroit.
Bien à vous Christianede
Bonjour,
Il y a des randonnées référencées sur le site de Wikiloc :
https://fr.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/find.do?t=&d=&lfr=<o=&src=&act=1%2C&q=lesbos
Je vais tenter de trouver le temps pour retrouver traces de nos balades.
Il y a des randonnées référencées sur le site de Wikiloc :
https://fr.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/find.do?t=&d=&lfr=<o=&src=&act=1%2C&q=lesbos
Je vais tenter de trouver le temps pour retrouver traces de nos balades.
Nos parcours jacquaires et romieux ICI
Bonjour Christianede,
vous ne verrez jamais aucune barque de réfugiés-migrants accoster à Pétra, elles arrivent entre Skala Sikaminia et Eftalou d'où un bus les emmènent aux deux hotspots de Mytilène (Moria et Kara Tepe) à 70 km de là.
Pour randonner: 25 sentiers de randonnées et VTT autour de Molyvos-Petra-le mont Lepemtinos.
Carte gratuite à l'OT de Molyvos ou livre (en anglais et néerlandais): at foot in North Lesbos.
La signalisation a été refaite en 2016 et les sentiers réaménagés.
Pour louer une voiture: le top c'est Billy's rent a car à Anaxos qui vous livre le véhicule à l'aéroport: ses véhicules ont été renouvelés en 2015 mais crise migratoire et disparition du tourisme occidental depuis 2 ans obligent, il sont comme neufs.
Que voir depuis Petra: Molyvos et sa glycine bien sur, l'ouest de l'ile jusqu'à Sigri (musée et parc de la forêt pétrifiée), la côte nord: Mantamados, Tsonia, Skala Sykaminia, le musée de l'huilerie industrielle à Agia Paraskevi, les grands monastères (Ypsilou, Leimonos, Perivolis)...
Fin mai sortira la brochure The other Egean en grec, anglais et turc qui reprend ces informations avec les dates de toutes les manifestations de l'ile (gratuite à l'OT de Molyvos).
A Petra même: s'acheter une bougatsa chaque matin à la boulangerie Ambrosia, s'engraisser aux loukoumades à la pâtisserie Tzalikis et goûter au bar de ligne servi avec des fleurs de courgettes farcies chez Christos.
Presque pas de Français dans cette partie de l'ile, quelques couples gréco-belges qui revendent leurs rooms ou magasin pour retourner en Belgique, de rares touristes nordiques et néerlandais (et bien sur des Anglais qui se finissent à la bière sur le port de Molyvos, mais ils dorment toute la journée).
Pour parler français, vous trouverez une petite communauté de couples franco-grecs et des philhéllènes qui se sont fixés à Plomari et autour du golfe de Géra dans le sud de l'Ile.
Seule précaution à prendre dans l'ile: il a beaucoup neigé cet hiver et les routes de montagne ont beaucoup souffert (voire disparu sur certains tronçons). Attendez-vous à de gros nids de poule ou à des parcours non asphaltés.
Bon voyage.
Bonsoir Glykofilousa,
Merci pour vos précieuses informations qui nous permettrons de gagner du temps en allant au bon endroit avec de bons documents. Les petites gourmandises nous intéressent aussi, nous aimons manger local.
Nous partons du 22 mai au 3 juin si vous avez d'autres suggestions nous sommes preneurs.
Le château de Molyvos, oui, mais la glycine où se trouve-t-elle?S'agit-il de la jolie plante aux magnifiques grappes fleuries?
J'ai lu que Eftalou et le port de Skala Sikaminas étaient jolis mais dans les conditions actuelles faut-il éviter? Enfin, en vous relisant je crois que vous dites qu'il n'y a pas de problème. Je suppose qu'il en va de même pour faire un petit tour le long des plages grecques et ou turques et aller voir les dauphins ...
Le petit train touristique pour voir les villages est-ce à faire de même les sources chaudes de Polichnitos? Pour l'ouzo , la visite de la distillerie Plomari est-elle la plus recommandée? Trouve t-on des magasins vendant des objets en bois d'olivier partout ? Les petits sites comme Temple de Mesa et Pont de Kremasti et thermes de Mytilène valent-ils le détour?Parmi les villages à voir : Mithymna-Agiassos-Kalloni et parmi les plages Kalloni-Sikaminos et Tsonia comme vous l'avez indiqué.
Je crois que les 15 jours seront bien occupés.
Christianede
Bonjour,
encore quelques informations:
-la glycine est une tradition des villages de Lesbos héritière de la période ottomane: elle protège les commerces et leurs clients de la chaleur. A Molyvos; c'est la rue principale qui monte au Kastro, à Pétra c'est la rue commerçante autour de la place, à Agiassos c'est la rue des potiers et des artisans du bois (une variante: le gros platane avec une source au milieu de la place: à Plomari, Antissa, Skalochori). Au printemps elle embaume, en mai-juin, les chatons font le buzz en grimpant sans pouvoir redescendre, en été, elle donne de l'ombre pour boire un café.
-Eftalou: plage de sable gris longée par la route, quelques hôtels à vendre. A mon avis, son seul intérêt réside dans les sources chaudes: soit la piscine collective, soit les baignoires moins chaudes.
Le bâtiment communique avec la mer pour se refroidir. Eftalou est aussi le point d'une randonnée côtière qui mène à Skala Sikaminia (9km) d'où on peut revenir en bateau au port de Molyvos (10€).
La randonnée est côtière; plus une piste qu'un chemin, on longe la mer mais pas vraiment de plages (quelques grèves de galets). Depuis 2015, le coin est devenu fréquenté et les Grecs l'appelle "les plages du débarquement": vous y verrez des MIKO (humanitaires) avec leurs jumelles, des gardes-côtes grecs et des policiers Frontex. En général, les bateaux de réfugiés sont maintenant récupérés en mer (pêcheurs, OTAN, Frontex, garde-côtes) et débarqués à Skala Sikaminia.
Vous pouvez faire l'objet d'un contrôle d'identité sur la piste (chasse aux passeurs) mais comme on n'a jamais sa carte d'identité, il suffit de dire que l'on est touriste .
-Skala Sikaminia: c'est le port de Sikaminia, 3km plus haut (très beau petit village) et l'épicentre des arrivées des réfugiés puis des migrants en 2015 (600 000). Pas de plage, deux tavernes et quelques pensions cheap qui logent les humanitaires.
Eviter la taverne i mouria (le murier) et préférer sa voisine côté chapelle. La première vous amène une bouteille d'eau en verre sans rien avoir demandé (arnaque à 1 € mais quand même).
-Tsonia: un de mes coups de coeur sur l'ile: c'est la "red beach" de Lesvos: plage de sable rose volcanique, dans une baie abritée du vent avec une mer très chaude. On y arrive à partir du village de Cleio et une descente à travers les oliviers. Et surtout la taverne : i folia tou koukou (le nid du coucou) et ses homards aux spaghettis.
-le petit train touristique: au départ, il desservait une boite isolée qui a fait faillite. Reprise en 2016, sans le petit train qui s'est reconverti en moyen de transport collectif. Je l'ai connu avec cinq wagons, il en restait deux en 2016. 6€ par personne pour faire Petra-port de Molyvos (bus: 1,60€; taxi 7€ la course à 4). A mon avis on peut zapper le train qui ne roule pas la nuit de toutes façons. Et un soir sur deux , on est à Molyvos.
-Temple de Messa et pont de Kremasti: à visiter en même temps que le musée de l'huilerie industrielle à Agia Paraskevi. Le temple est l'ancien sanctuaire fédéral des cinq cités antiques de l'ile avec une petite chapelle paléochrétienne au milieu. Un musée de site expose les sculptures et la frise ionique du batiment. Le pont de Krémasti est une construction d'époque ottomane accessible par la route ou un sentier balisé au milieu des oliviers (encore un coup de coeur).
-l'ouzo: il y a 21 distilleries à Lesvos regroupées sous cinq labels. Celle de Plomari est aussi un musée qui se visite mais il y en a une à Petra dans la rue piétonne qui vous montrera la distillation et vous fera goûter.
-Acheter des souvenirs: Lesvos est une ile de menuisiers spécialisés dans les coffres sculptés et le travail du bois d'olivier: vous aurez le plus grand choix à Agiassos (ils sont tous installés au rez de chaussée de l'église). Dans les boutiques de Pétra et Molyvos, pas sur que les couverts ou saladier en bois d'olivier proviennent de Grèce. Pareil pour les produits alimentaires (huile d'olive, ladotyri) ou les céramiques traditionnelles: privilégiez les boutiques des coopératives agricoles et les échoppes des fabricants (Agiassos et Mantamados).
-Sources chaudes de Thermi (au nord de la ville de Mytilène: elles coulent à l'air libre dans des piscines au milieu des ruines et des grands hôtels abandonnés d'une ancienne station thermale.
On peut s'y baigner gratuitement mais c'est à la fois lugubre et très photogénique.
-A éviter: Skala Kallonis: port sardinier très venté sur le golfe du même nom, hôtels all-inclusive fermés et plage sale. Pour voir les oiseaux du golfe, les sites d'observations sont accessibles à partir de la route principale. En mai-juin, les cigognes blanches et noires élèvent leurs petits et il y a une ou deux bandes de pélicans qui font escale avant le Danube (quelquefois, on en voit à Pétra qui suivent les bateaux de pêche). Cette année, pour reconstituer les stocks épuisés, les salines vont remettre des marais salants en service, les habitants m'ont dit que les flamands roses s'arrêtent aussi, au lieu d'aller à Limnos.
-Dernier coup de coeur: le monastère du périvolis au pied d'Antissa: église entièrement peinte de fresques et surtout ce jardin d'arbres fruitiers et de jasmins odorants, si le pope est là , il sert l'ouzo qu'il distille lui même.
Pour conclure: à Lesvos, quand on s'assoit à la table d'un café ou d'une taverne, on vous apporte un pichet d'eau avant même d'avoir commandé. C'est une ile volcanique, très arrosée en automne et en hiver et l'eau du robinet est de source. Vous repérerez les attrappe-touristes à ce détail. refusez la bouteille et demandez un karafaki, ils comprennent immédiatement.
Ne jamais demander à votre logeur, "are you lesbian?". Le mot a le même sens qu'en français, on dit "Mytilinios". Il vous apportera tous les renseignements nécessaires et passera du temps pour vous satisfaire.
Pour sortir des sentiers battus, essayez d'assister à la danse des chevaux. L'ile élève une petite variété de chevaux de travail qui sont dressés à danser avec leur cavalier debout sur la selle. Même si les grandes panigiria ont lieu en juillet, vous serez invités à une fête de village ou à un mariage pour assister au spectacle.
Bonnes vacances.
Bonsoir Glykofilous
Je vous remercie vivement pour ces renseignements très précieux dont nous tiendrons compte pour organiser notre séjour.J'avais lu que le village de Kallonis était joli à visiter ?avec aussi l'observation des oiseaux.
Pourriez-vous me dire comment on fait pour être invités à un mariage ou une fête de village? Y a-t-il beaucoup de fêtes de village ou de mariages en mai? Les gens vous y convient-ils simplement? Peut-on connaître les endroits et dates de ces événements auprès de l'office du tourisme?...
Bien à vous, Christianede
Bonsoir Eze,
Je me suis inscrite sur le site Wikiloc. C'est super mais comment choisir dans autant de propositions? Pourriez vous effectivement retrouver quelques ballades qui vous ont plues,
Merci d'avance pour le temps que vous y consacrerez.
Bien à vous, Christianede
Bonjour,
Kalloni: on peut zapper: le bourg est un gros centre agricole qui fournit tracteurs, tuyaux d'irrigation, nourriture pour animaux... pour tout l'ouest de l'ile. Seul intérêt du village: l'hopital local (au cas où). Le golfe est à 5 km: zone natura 2000 donc protégée de toutes constructions: marais salants, roselières, marais "gâts" sont le royaume des oiseaux (pareil pour le golfe de Géra).
Les sites d'observation et les sentiers sont accessibles par la route de Mytilène qui longe le golfe.
Seule Skala Kallonis présente un intérêt: port sardinier, conserverie, une petite place centrale avec quelques tavernes mais c'est perdu au milieu des roseaux et le vent souffle. On peut cependant partir à la pêche en mer (payant et en s'arrangeant avec un pêcheur): bar, dorades, homards et ...sardines.
Fêtes de village: j'ai regardé: une le 15 mai (celle de l'archange Michel à Mantamados) et une le 27 juin à Agia paraskevi: la fête du taureau. Les autres sont en été. Un peu prévisible puisqu'elles durent trois jours et demandent une longue préparation (vous verrez la taille des cuisines dans les monastères). En plus , elles reprennent toutes les rites agraires antiques liés aux récoltes et aux semailles. Donc rabattez-vous sur une fête privée. A Molyvos (chez le coiffeur) et à Pétra (au collège), il existe un groupe de musiciens et chanteurs qui vont travailler tout l'été dans les tavernes et les mariages ou les fêtes. Demander à votre logeur d'assister à la danse Ta Xyla (LA danse de l'ile que tout le monde apprend dès la maternelle) ou à la danse des chevaux (horos ton alogon). Comme vous serez traités comme des rois, il sera tenu de vous indiquer une fête ou vous faire inviter à un mariage pour la partie repas et danse. Par tradition, les étrangers invités donnent une petite somme pour le voyage de noces. Au pire, la taverne Triena sur le port de Molyvos, offre un spectacle de musique grecque une fois par semaine, mais c'est plus conventionnel.
Pour reprendre en photos toutes ces infos, je vous indique 4 sites qui parlent de l'ile:
-theotheregean.com: dans l'onglet publications: la brochure 2016 sur les activités de l'ile et la carte des sentiers de randonnées autour de Petra et Molyvos.
-lesvosgreece.gr: un guide touristique de l'ile: dans l'onglet "island" puis "municipalities": une série de photos et une suggestion d'activités village par village. Dans l'onglet "activities", choisir "therapeutic spa" pour les bains thermaux en piscine.
-lesvos.com: un site commercial mais avec plein de photos (on clique dessus): villages, plages, musées, églises...
-petrifiedforest.gr: à l'ouest de Pétra, les paysages volcaniques se succèdent jusqu'à Sigri et la forêt pétrifiée: c'est un géopark contrôlé par l'université de l'Egée: constructions interdites (même sur les plages, rare en Grèce), sites balisés (42 panneaux explicatifs parsèment toute l'ile), musée à Sigri qui explique la formation de la mer Egée et les éruptions géantes qui ont façonné l'ile. L'ouest de l'ile reste encore terra incognita pour les touristes avec plein de petits villages à découvrir.
Un dernier coup de coeur: la caldeira intacte du village d'anemotia: énorme cratère recouvert d'oliviers , le fond est une plaine verdoyante où tout pousse, le village s'est ihstallé à mi-pente pour ne pas gaspiller les terres et s'est spécialisé dans le veau bio. A déguster à la taverne.
Bonnes vacances.
Bonsoir,
Franchement super d'avoir tous ces renseignements pour mieux profiter de notre séjour.
Encore un tout grand merci à vous et à voyageforum qui nous permet de tels échanges.
Christianede
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What tips can you give me for dealing with a car rental scam attempt in Lithuania?
In our case, it’s the Avis-Budget agency in Vilnius trying to scam us.
We rented a car at Vilnius Airport for 2 weeks on July 28, 2019, to return it in Tallinn on August 11. We brought it back on August 11 at the airport, in perfect condition, and with a full tank at the gas station right by Tallinn Airport.
On the parking lot, the receptionist’s booth was closed. So we had to leave the car in the lot and go to the counter inside the airport. The person at the counter told us their colleague had gone for lunch! But they refused to come out and do the inspection with us because they were alone at the counter. They told us we could leave and that everything was fine!!!!
Two days later, we got an email from Avis-Budget with two invoices saying the car was damaged—scratched on both sides—and charging us for a full tank of gas. That’s two bills totaling 800 €!!!! Coincidentally, the deposit was 900 €!
It’s clear this isn’t over!! Have any of you been through the same nightmare? How did you handle it? Thanks in advance!
In our case, it’s the Avis-Budget agency in Vilnius trying to scam us.
We rented a car at Vilnius Airport for 2 weeks on July 28, 2019, to return it in Tallinn on August 11. We brought it back on August 11 at the airport, in perfect condition, and with a full tank at the gas station right by Tallinn Airport.
On the parking lot, the receptionist’s booth was closed. So we had to leave the car in the lot and go to the counter inside the airport. The person at the counter told us their colleague had gone for lunch! But they refused to come out and do the inspection with us because they were alone at the counter. They told us we could leave and that everything was fine!!!!
Two days later, we got an email from Avis-Budget with two invoices saying the car was damaged—scratched on both sides—and charging us for a full tank of gas. That’s two bills totaling 800 €!!!! Coincidentally, the deposit was 900 €!
It’s clear this isn’t over!! Have any of you been through the same nightmare? How did you handle it? Thanks in advance!
I’m spending 2 weeks in Crete in September and will need a rental car.
I usually go with Europcar, but comparing their offer to what Aegean Rentals has, I see Europcar is charging no less than 400 € more for the same car and similar insurance!
I’d love to hear if others have experience with Aegean Rentals, and if so, whether it was a good one?
Hi,
We’re heading to Greece in early October and will be staying in Kineta, north of the Saronic Gulf, and renting a car.
Is it feasible to visit Acrocorinth, Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidaurus in a single day?
Thanks for your recommendations!
Hi there!
I’m sharing our itinerary for May/June 2027—23 days. This is our first time in Greece, so we’re starting with the must-see spots. We’re planning another trip later to explore the north, Thessaloniki, Macedonia, and some islands.
- Athens, 4 nights - Corinth area, 2 nights (Heraion of Perachora, Canal, Acrocorinth) - Nafplio, 3 nights (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Methana peninsula) - Gefira, 2 nights (Monemvasia) - Areopoli, 2 nights (Mani). Maybe add an extra night and stay on the peninsula??? Based on my calculations, the Mani loop is about 100 km—doable in a day, but it’d be a quick trip. - Sparta or Pikoulianika, 2 nights (Mystras) - Dimitsana, 2 nights (Lousios Gorge, monasteries) - Olympia, 2 nights (via Lagkadia?) - Delphi or Arachova, 3 nights (via the west coast, Galaxidi bridge) (Delphi, Hosios Loukas Monastery) - And back to Athens.
This is just a rough draft for now. We’re planning to stay in hotels or book through Booking.com. What do you think? Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!
- Athens, 4 nights - Corinth area, 2 nights (Heraion of Perachora, Canal, Acrocorinth) - Nafplio, 3 nights (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Methana peninsula) - Gefira, 2 nights (Monemvasia) - Areopoli, 2 nights (Mani). Maybe add an extra night and stay on the peninsula??? Based on my calculations, the Mani loop is about 100 km—doable in a day, but it’d be a quick trip. - Sparta or Pikoulianika, 2 nights (Mystras) - Dimitsana, 2 nights (Lousios Gorge, monasteries) - Olympia, 2 nights (via Lagkadia?) - Delphi or Arachova, 3 nights (via the west coast, Galaxidi bridge) (Delphi, Hosios Loukas Monastery) - And back to Athens.
This is just a rough draft for now. We’re planning to stay in hotels or book through Booking.com. What do you think? Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!
Over the past twenty-five years, I’ve traveled the roads between France and Moldova a good ten times, sometimes via Central Europe, other times via the Balkans.
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
Proof: https://etreounepasetrebretillien.com/2018/03/19/moldova-mea/ 🤓
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
Proof: https://etreounepasetrebretillien.com/2018/03/19/moldova-mea/ 🤓
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
hi
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
Maya and Sullivan
Maya and Sullivan
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
What are the main sights to visit on Rhodes itself or the surrounding islands, and what’s the weather like? We’re leaving on May 18th.
Hi everyone,
We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Crete between mid-August and early September, renting a car, quickly exploring a few spots in the east, and focusing on the west, southwest, and south.
I’m worried about the heavy tourist crowds. Is it really more noticeable than elsewhere in Greece? Is there a way to avoid the crowds without missing out on the iconic places, which I imagine are stunning in Crete? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences!
Hi,
I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina?
Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.
Thanks!
Patrice
Thanks!
Patrice
Hi everyone,
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city. I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint Visit the Baroque gardens St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit National Theatre Discover the Cumil statues Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie Michael’s Gate Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid Head down to the Blue Church Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge There you go—10 km and a packed day! What do you think?
Thanks, Stéphane.
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city. I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint Visit the Baroque gardens St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit National Theatre Discover the Cumil statues Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie Michael’s Gate Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid Head down to the Blue Church Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge There you go—10 km and a packed day! What do you think?
Thanks, Stéphane.
Hi,
I’m renting a car in Greece (Heraklion).
Should I get extra insurance?
What’s driving like with the Greeks?
Thanks for any tips!
Hi there,
we’re heading to Crete from May 8th to 15th, staying at a hotel in Agia Pelagia, 20 km from Heraklion, on half-board, so we’ll be back every evening. What daily itinerary would you recommend? We love hiking and discovering local cultures...
Thanks in advance!!
Hello,
We’re heading to Prague with so much excitement from June 10th to 20th. I’ve got three main questions for those who live there or have visited:
- What are your thoughts on what to pack clothing-wise? What’s the weather usually like at this time of year? We’re a bit sensitive to the cold—we live way down in southern Andalusia and are used to the *calor* 😎... Should we pack rain gear? Are we likely to get a lot of rain (which we’re dreading a little, but we couldn’t choose other dates)?
- I’ve seen there are "passes" for various attractions, museums, and sites, including one that’s valid for 10 days but costs a whopping 160 € per person—that’s an average of 16 € per day. Do you think it’s really worth it? We won’t be spending our days rushing between every indoor site; we also love wandering the streets and discovering things a bit "at random." If we do two paid visits a day, that’ll probably be the max... Can we make it worth the cost with that? Of course, we want to visit the castle and take a boat trip as a minimum. Are the sites included in these passes iconic, or are they more "minor" attractions? Does having the pass help us skip long lines?
- Finally, a question about communication: I speak French, obviously, plus Spanish and English fluently, but very little German (haven’t practiced in ages), and no Russian or Czech at all. My husband knows a few words of Russian, but it’s "Cuban" Russian—about the same level as my current German 🙂 !! Can we still get by without too much trouble? We don’t want to spend 10 days not saying a word to anyone and communicating only with gestures!!
Thanks for your valuable tips and opinions.
hi,
I'm looking to rent a small car, not too expensive, for Crete in April. Do you have any great tips? Thanks in advance! Best regards
I'm looking to rent a small car, not too expensive, for Crete in April. Do you have any great tips? Thanks in advance! Best regards
Hi there!
We’re heading to Crete (Heraklion) as a couple and I’d like to rent a car.
1) Do we need an international driver’s permit?
2) Are rentals super expensive?
Thanks everyone!





