Hello everyone!
July 5, 2025: Argentina Update
As I do every month, here’s an overview of the situation in Argentina—useful if you’re planning to visit in the coming weeks!
Vibe, economy, general situation, tips for tourists, and more...
Latest news for anyone thinking of visiting Argentina this year:
- Mixed outlook
- Current economic and social situation in Argentina
- Our friend Cristina
- What’s new for tourists?
What’s new? The parallel exchange rate and the official BNA rate are almost the same—just 2% higher for the parallel rate, which won’t really change your trip!
Pay as much as possible in cash—discounts are still common at bars, restaurants, and even hotels. Even if it’s not advertised, always ask!
You can still withdraw cash via Western Union, as before.
Paying with a Visa or other card is still possible, and the CCL rate is even above the parallel rate today, meaning +3% compared to the official rate. However, you won’t get discounts when paying by card.
As always, **do not** withdraw money from ATMs—the fees in Argentina are still outrageous.
Also, don’t forget that winter break in Argentina starts today, Friday, July 4, in 10 provinces for two weeks, until Sunday, July 20.
On Friday, July 11, it begins in 9 more provinces until Sunday, July 27, and finally, in the last 4 provinces (including Buenos Aires and the city of Buenos Aires—the most populated), it runs from Friday, July 18, until Sunday, August 3.
In short: 3 zones, each with two weeks off, stretching over 4 weeks total.
In previous years, I’d have warned you: “Be careful if you’re traveling, as buses, flights, and often accommodations are at high occupancy.”
But this year, poorer and middle-class Argentines aren’t traveling because “No hay plata,” and those who can afford it are heading to Brazil, Chile, or even Miami for cheaper parties and shopping—Brazil can be twice as affordable!
So, in Argentina, the top destinations for these staggered winter breaks are Bariloche (first place), followed by Ushuaia, San Martín de los Andes, and Villa La Angostura. Mendoza comes in fifth, then El Calafate, and finally Salta and Córdoba. As you can see, wealthy Argentines travel in winter to see snow—it’s chic to be cold and go skiing!
Bariloche is the most expensive, while Córdoba is the cheapest. Same services, for example, a flight plus 7 days plus a hotel in the same category: Bariloche is 2.5 to 3 times pricier than Córdoba or even the sierras of Córdoba.
Yet, there’s plenty of availability. Most people don’t have the money (and you might say Patagonian winter destinations aren’t exactly middle-class friendly either), but with fewer Brazilians or Chileans taking advantage of “cheap” Argentina, space is freed up.
Brazilians alone used to make up 50% of Argentina’s international tourism—so there are suddenly fewer people on flights and in hotels!
For these destinations, hoteliers are hoping for (at best) a 70% occupancy rate, though 50% would already make them happy.
Why?
1- Lack of foreign tourists,
2- The middle class preferring to visit the old aunt in Posadas (to show family loyalty and spend as little as possible),
3- The wealthy opting for Bariloche, Punta Cana, Búzios, or Miami, which drastically lowers domestic occupancy rates and increases the outflow of USD abroad. +66% of Argentine tourists traveled abroad in the first five months of 2025. Six million Argentines vacationed abroad between January 1 and May 1, 2025.
To read the full article, check it out here:
https://www.petitherge.com/2025/07/05-juillet-2025-situation-de-l-argentine.html
Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.
First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.
After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.
After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.
From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.
I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.
Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.
After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.
Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.
After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.
After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.
From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.
I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.
Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.
After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.
Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
Hi everyone,
My husband and I are planning to explore Ecuador in the coming year, and to make the most of the trip, we’d like to do it with a rental car. We already have a rough idea of the route we’d take, and I’m reaching out to the community to help us refine this journey. Here’s the plan:
Day 1: Flight to Quito
Days 2 and 3: Exploring Quito
Days 4 and 5: Picking up the rental car and driving to Otavalo and Laguna Cuicocha
Day 6: Drive to Papallacta via Cayambe to enjoy the hot springs in the evening
Days 7 and 8: Drive to Lasso via Malachi – Excursions in Cotopaxi National Park. Laguna Limpiopungo
Days 9 and 10: Laguna Quilotoa
Day 11: Drive to Baños via Latacunga/Ambato to enjoy the hot springs in Baños
Days 12 and 13: Hiking in the Chimborazo Reserve
Day 14: Hiking in Sangay National Park
Day 15: Drive to Guamote to arrive by late afternoon
Day 16: Guamote market in the morning. Drive to Cañar in the afternoon
Day 17: Guided tour of Ingapirca, then drive to Cuenca
Day 18: Visit Cajas National Park early in the morning
Day 19: Exploring Cuenca
Day 20: Returning the rental car and flight to Quito or driving back to Quito (depending on cost)
Day 21: Relaxing in Quito
Day 22: Flight back to France
We won’t be doing any ascents—just hikes in the parks (we’re walkers, but we’re feeling our age and prefer to take it easy now!).
We’d love to hear your thoughts, critiques, or advice... Thanks in advance. Looking forward to reading your replies! martine
We won’t be doing any ascents—just hikes in the parks (we’re walkers, but we’re feeling our age and prefer to take it easy now!).
We’d love to hear your thoughts, critiques, or advice... Thanks in advance. Looking forward to reading your replies! martine
Hi everyone,
I’d love to see jaguars in the wild in Brazil. I’ve heard it’s possible in the Pantanal. Do you know any local agencies that offer this kind of excursion, or can we go on our own? I’d also like to get an idea of the price, since French tour operators charge a fortune. Could you share any tips or your own experiences? Thanks in advance!
I’d love to see jaguars in the wild in Brazil. I’ve heard it’s possible in the Pantanal. Do you know any local agencies that offer this kind of excursion, or can we go on our own? I’d also like to get an idea of the price, since French tour operators charge a fortune. Could you share any tips or your own experiences? Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Argentina where I’ll be arriving at Buenos Aires EZE airport. I’ve seen that there are buses to the city center, but you need a card to board them. Does anyone know the name of the card, and if so, where can I buy it? Thanks, and have a great day!
I’m planning a trip to Argentina where I’ll be arriving at Buenos Aires EZE airport. I’ve seen that there are buses to the city center, but you need a card to board them. Does anyone know the name of the card, and if so, where can I buy it? Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone,
With a friend, we’re planning a big trip to South America from January to mid-April 2026.
Our planned itinerary:
Argentina Chile Brazil (for Rio’s Carnival) Peru Then heading to Costa Rica to wrap up the trip.
We don’t have a precise route yet, but here are the key stops we’d absolutely love to include:
Iguazu Falls (Foz de Iguaçu) Patagonia (especially the Perito Moreno Glacier) Atacama Desert Rio Carnival Machu Picchu
This is our first time taking a trip of this scale, and we’d love some advice from more experienced travelers. To narrow it down, here are the main things we’re worried about:
1. Travel agency
For a trip this big, do you think a travel agency is helpful, or is it better to organize everything ourselves? If so, which ones would you recommend for a tight budget? We were considering G Adventures for parts of the trip. Any feedback on them?
2. Practical tips and money
For luggage, would you recommend a small rolling suitcase or a big backpack?
About payments: Is it easy to pay by card, or is cash the way to go? If cash is king, how do you manage your budget—do you use services like Western Union for transfers? Currency exchange: Is it easy to exchange money on the spot? Which places are best for that? For costs, what’s a reasonable monthly budget for average travelers?
3. Accommodation
Is it easy to find hotels/hostels on the fly, or is it better to book a few days/weeks in advance (especially in high season)?
4. Transportation
Same question for buses: Can you buy tickets the same day, or should you book a few days/weeks (or even months) ahead for certain routes? Any recommendations for reliable companies between these countries and within them?
5. Phone service
How do you handle mobile networks, especially when crossing borders? Do you need a SIM card per country? Are there plans that cover multiple countries? Are eSIMs available? What’s the best way to set it up? Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! We’re all ears for any great tips, hacks, or pitfalls to avoid.
Argentina Chile Brazil (for Rio’s Carnival) Peru Then heading to Costa Rica to wrap up the trip.
We don’t have a precise route yet, but here are the key stops we’d absolutely love to include:
Iguazu Falls (Foz de Iguaçu) Patagonia (especially the Perito Moreno Glacier) Atacama Desert Rio Carnival Machu Picchu
This is our first time taking a trip of this scale, and we’d love some advice from more experienced travelers. To narrow it down, here are the main things we’re worried about:
1. Travel agency
For a trip this big, do you think a travel agency is helpful, or is it better to organize everything ourselves? If so, which ones would you recommend for a tight budget? We were considering G Adventures for parts of the trip. Any feedback on them?
2. Practical tips and money
For luggage, would you recommend a small rolling suitcase or a big backpack?
About payments: Is it easy to pay by card, or is cash the way to go? If cash is king, how do you manage your budget—do you use services like Western Union for transfers? Currency exchange: Is it easy to exchange money on the spot? Which places are best for that? For costs, what’s a reasonable monthly budget for average travelers?
3. Accommodation
Is it easy to find hotels/hostels on the fly, or is it better to book a few days/weeks in advance (especially in high season)?
4. Transportation
Same question for buses: Can you buy tickets the same day, or should you book a few days/weeks (or even months) ahead for certain routes? Any recommendations for reliable companies between these countries and within them?
5. Phone service
How do you handle mobile networks, especially when crossing borders? Do you need a SIM card per country? Are there plans that cover multiple countries? Are eSIMs available? What’s the best way to set it up? Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! We’re all ears for any great tips, hacks, or pitfalls to avoid.
Hello,
For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?
We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?
How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?
Best regards,
Odile
For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?
We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?
How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?
Best regards,
Odile
Hi,
we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general.
For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges.
Thanks in advance.
Raf.
Hi everyone,
I’m planning my trip to Brazil in March 2025 (finally!) and I’d love to hear your thoughts on Ilha Grande and Paraty. We’ll be arriving from Rio and departing from Paraty (heading to São Paulo). How can we best organize these transfers—can we book the different transports on the spot? How much time is ideal to stay in these two places to enjoy them without doing long hikes? Do you have an estimated budget? Thanks for your feedback! Dominique
I’m planning my trip to Brazil in March 2025 (finally!) and I’d love to hear your thoughts on Ilha Grande and Paraty. We’ll be arriving from Rio and departing from Paraty (heading to São Paulo). How can we best organize these transfers—can we book the different transports on the spot? How much time is ideal to stay in these two places to enjoy them without doing long hikes? Do you have an estimated budget? Thanks for your feedback! Dominique
Hi, I’m heading to Brazil soon and wanted to know the price of drinks in restaurants/hotels—like wine, beers, or cocktails—just to budget. Also, is there any risk with ice cubes? Thanks!
Hi everyone,
We’re making a family dream come true: spending a month in Brazil from July 19 to August 20. We’ll land in Rio and spend 6 days there (we’ve finalized a home exchange for a lovely apartment in the Copacabana neighborhood). After that, we’re heading to Minas Gerais by rental car for 11 days (Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, and the Inhotim Institute), then the Costa Verde, and finally 2 days in São Paulo.
We’ll be traveling with our three kids, ages 17, 14, and 9, who are real travelers and good hikers. Goes hand in hand, right? 😄
For now, we’ve planned to visit Ilha Grande (4 days) and then Paraty and its surroundings (3 days). What do you think? Ilha Grande appealed to us for its hikes and beaches, but couldn’t we do that along Paraty’s coast? I’ve read mixed reviews about Ilha Grande...
Thanks for your tips, opinions, and anything else! !
We’re making a family dream come true: spending a month in Brazil from July 19 to August 20. We’ll land in Rio and spend 6 days there (we’ve finalized a home exchange for a lovely apartment in the Copacabana neighborhood). After that, we’re heading to Minas Gerais by rental car for 11 days (Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, and the Inhotim Institute), then the Costa Verde, and finally 2 days in São Paulo.
We’ll be traveling with our three kids, ages 17, 14, and 9, who are real travelers and good hikers. Goes hand in hand, right? 😄
For now, we’ve planned to visit Ilha Grande (4 days) and then Paraty and its surroundings (3 days). What do you think? Ilha Grande appealed to us for its hikes and beaches, but couldn’t we do that along Paraty’s coast? I’ve read mixed reviews about Ilha Grande...
Thanks for your tips, opinions, and anything else! !
Hello,
After putting off my trip to Chile (and Argentina) for several years (protests plus Covid 19/20/21...), I’d love to know what the average cost is now for a journey from north to south? (Public transport and "ordinary" hotels) If you have any recent info, thanks for taking the time to reply...
😉 Best regards,
Cruzo.
After putting off my trip to Chile (and Argentina) for several years (protests plus Covid 19/20/21...), I’d love to know what the average cost is now for a journey from north to south? (Public transport and "ordinary" hotels) If you have any recent info, thanks for taking the time to reply...
😉 Best regards,
Cruzo.
Hi everyone, I know arachnophobes will get why I’m asking this: is it reasonable to hope to travel for a month in this country without running into a tarantula? And a follow-up question—since I’m traveling with a friend who’s terrified of seeing a snake—do you often come across reptiles?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
Hi everyone,
I just got back from a trip to Colombia and wanted to share my experience with you—maybe it’ll help some of you out.
I met a French guy living in Bogota who offers airport transfer services, so you can arrive with total peace of mind and confidence.
He’s really friendly, punctual, and can even drive you around for your sightseeing trips in Bogota.
He’s just starting out, and I promised I’d mention him, so here it is!
Have a great day.
I’m heading to Argentina for a month in September. Any tips on exchanging money? Can you still exchange currency on the street like before the political events?
Thanks for your great tips
Hi there,
Three years ago during a trip to Java (no, I didn’t post in the wrong forum!), I came across the address of former miners who had switched to “tourism” and organized nighttime ascents of the Kawah Ijen volcano and descents into the crater.
So I was thinking—maybe there are miners on the salt flats too, either former or still active, who do the same thing. If you’ve had an experience like this, I’d love any tips you can share.
Thanks in advance.
I’ve seen some info about this route, but not nearly enough, so I thought I’d share what I did for anyone interested.
Cayenne - Saint-Georges: From Cayenne’s bus station, the TIG No. 8 bus goes to Saint-Georges. It’s a minibus run by a contractor you can call ahead to reserve a seat. I managed to get a spot the same day. It was parked on the other side of the river, across from the main bus stops. Price: 40 €, departures at 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, and 3 PM except Sundays, depending on driver availability.
Saint-Georges - Oiapoque: Once in Saint-Georges, cross the river by canoe for 10 €. The canoe made a first stop on the opposite bank, then a second in the center of Oiapoque. To enter Brazil, you’ll need to get your passport stamped. This can be done at the federal police station, less than 1 km from the dock, heading into Oiapoque.
Oiapoque - Macapá: From Oiapoque, there are buses or taxis. Not knowing when the next bus would come, I didn’t want to wait, so I went back to the dock and took a 4x4, a kind of shared taxi, for 250 reals. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 2 AM in Macapá. If I had to do it again, I’d take the bus—apparently, it has reclining seats and travels overnight to arrive the next morning.
Macapá - Santana You need to get to Santana to take the ferry to Belém—tricky on a Sunday... After waiting for a bus that was taking forever, I took a *carretera pirata* (unofficial taxi) on the advice of a local Brazilian. It took me to Santana for 10 reals (vs. 5 for the bus). The ride takes about 15 minutes from Macapá to Santana’s port. You can do this the same morning.
Santana - Belém I bought tickets directly at the port when I arrived from one of the many agencies. I slept in a no-frills little hotel right by the port, run by a charming elderly couple, and boarded the next day at 9 AM. You’ll need a hammock to sleep if you’re not taking a cabin. The fare is 250 reals—it’s listed as 300, but they gave me a "discount" without me even asking. The trip takes 24 hours to Belém. There’s a small snack bar for those who didn’t have time to pack food.
Article on the topic (in French): https://la1ere.franceinfo.fr/guyane/macapa-belem-au-fil-de-l-amazone-1302076.html
Hope this helps someone avoid some of the hassle I went through!
Cayenne - Saint-Georges: From Cayenne’s bus station, the TIG No. 8 bus goes to Saint-Georges. It’s a minibus run by a contractor you can call ahead to reserve a seat. I managed to get a spot the same day. It was parked on the other side of the river, across from the main bus stops. Price: 40 €, departures at 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, and 3 PM except Sundays, depending on driver availability.
Saint-Georges - Oiapoque: Once in Saint-Georges, cross the river by canoe for 10 €. The canoe made a first stop on the opposite bank, then a second in the center of Oiapoque. To enter Brazil, you’ll need to get your passport stamped. This can be done at the federal police station, less than 1 km from the dock, heading into Oiapoque.
Oiapoque - Macapá: From Oiapoque, there are buses or taxis. Not knowing when the next bus would come, I didn’t want to wait, so I went back to the dock and took a 4x4, a kind of shared taxi, for 250 reals. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 2 AM in Macapá. If I had to do it again, I’d take the bus—apparently, it has reclining seats and travels overnight to arrive the next morning.
Macapá - Santana You need to get to Santana to take the ferry to Belém—tricky on a Sunday... After waiting for a bus that was taking forever, I took a *carretera pirata* (unofficial taxi) on the advice of a local Brazilian. It took me to Santana for 10 reals (vs. 5 for the bus). The ride takes about 15 minutes from Macapá to Santana’s port. You can do this the same morning.
Santana - Belém I bought tickets directly at the port when I arrived from one of the many agencies. I slept in a no-frills little hotel right by the port, run by a charming elderly couple, and boarded the next day at 9 AM. You’ll need a hammock to sleep if you’re not taking a cabin. The fare is 250 reals—it’s listed as 300, but they gave me a "discount" without me even asking. The trip takes 24 hours to Belém. There’s a small snack bar for those who didn’t have time to pack food.
Article on the topic (in French): https://la1ere.franceinfo.fr/guyane/macapa-belem-au-fil-de-l-amazone-1302076.html
Hope this helps someone avoid some of the hassle I went through!
Hi! We’re planning to spend a month (February or March 2026) in southern Chile, starting from Santiago (Lake District, Torres del Paine Park, Punta Arenas).
Can we do this itinerary by car, or do we need to take internal flights?
Has anyone done this trip and can give us some tips?
Thanks!
Fabienne and Jérôme
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Colombia this summer. I’ve been reading a lot about safety in Colombia—everything and its opposite.
For those of you who know Colombia, currently, would you say it’s a country where you can travel safely? I don’t plan on going to narco or paramilitary zones. What about the political situation? I’m traveling as a couple, without any tour organization.
I just signed up and I’m still figuring out how this forum works—I didn’t know where to look for answers.
Thanks.
Hi there,
Assuming our flight takes off, we’re leaving on September 10th... On the 30th, we need to go to Valparaiso by bus—round trip in one day. I tried booking tickets on either Turbus or Pullman from the Alameda station, but neither site lets us enter our nationality because it’s not listed in the dropdown. Is it really necessary to book the bus tickets online, or can we just grab them the morning of—or even 48 hours ahead at the station? Thanks! Odile
Assuming our flight takes off, we’re leaving on September 10th... On the 30th, we need to go to Valparaiso by bus—round trip in one day. I tried booking tickets on either Turbus or Pullman from the Alameda station, but neither site lets us enter our nationality because it’s not listed in the dropdown. Is it really necessary to book the bus tickets online, or can we just grab them the morning of—or even 48 hours ahead at the station? Thanks! Odile
Hi there!
I’m heading to Morro de São Paulo in the first half of September.
I’ll spend a day in Bahia and then take the fast ferry to Morro from the Terminal Turístico Náutico. I’ve heard this ferry can be canceled depending on sea conditions. Locals from Bahia, can you tell me if cancellations are common in early September or if it’s usually not a big deal?
After Morro, I’ll spend a few days in Boipeba.
My question is about the return trip to Bahia to catch my flight home.
Is it better to go back through Morro to take the ferry in the opposite direction, or can I leave directly from Boipeba to Bahia?
I want to avoid long trips and bus rides.
If there’s no way around a road trip, I could take a taxi, Uber, or something similar.
Obrigado pela ajuda for helping me optimize my route: Bahia → Morro / Boipeba → Bahia! :)
I’m heading to Morro de São Paulo in the first half of September.
I’ll spend a day in Bahia and then take the fast ferry to Morro from the Terminal Turístico Náutico. I’ve heard this ferry can be canceled depending on sea conditions. Locals from Bahia, can you tell me if cancellations are common in early September or if it’s usually not a big deal?
After Morro, I’ll spend a few days in Boipeba.
My question is about the return trip to Bahia to catch my flight home.
Is it better to go back through Morro to take the ferry in the opposite direction, or can I leave directly from Boipeba to Bahia?
I want to avoid long trips and bus rides.
If there’s no way around a road trip, I could take a taxi, Uber, or something similar.
Obrigado pela ajuda for helping me optimize my route: Bahia → Morro / Boipeba → Bahia! :)
Hi everyone,
Our travel plans to Brazil in October are moving forward. Now we're looking for the best way to put it all together. Starting from Montpellier, probably connecting through CDG, arriving in Salvador de Bahia, stopping in Belo Horizonte, then a flight to Rio, and the return trip. How can we manage to finalize such a circular flight? Thanks in advance for your tips.
Best,
Serge
Hello,
On our way back from Punta Arenas, we’ll be staying in Santiago for 4 days before heading home.
Could you recommend any places to stay and neighborhoods in Santiago that are budget-friendly, please?
We’d also like to visit Valparaíso despite some safety concerns. Is it better to hire a guide or book a organized tour from Santiago? Or can we plan it independently?
Can this be done in a day?
Thanks,
Odile
Hi there,
We’ll be in Argentina for 24 days starting mid-September 2025. I’m not sure where to go for this time of year—is Patagonia doable? Iguazu without a doubt, Salta, Peninsula Valdes to see the wildlife? Can we see penguins at that time? We love hiking, thanks for your tips!
Hi,
I’d love to spend a night in the park to enjoy it without rushing, but I’m shocked by the prices and the poor quality of the accommodations I’ve found on Booking. Are there any other more reasonable options on-site (aside from tents and hammocks, which aren’t for us...)? Also, is it risky not to book ahead for a trip in March? Thanks for your feedback!
Hi there,
I’m sharing a link to the online site for all gas stations in Chile.
It can be really useful because it shows not only their locations but also the current prices per liter. The site is run by Chile’s National Energy Commission.
https://www.bencinaenlinea.cl/
This info is especially important for those traveling through remote and isolated areas like the high plateaus of the far north, the Austral Highway, Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego.
Have a great trip and stay safe out there!
Thierry
I’m sharing a link to the online site for all gas stations in Chile.
It can be really useful because it shows not only their locations but also the current prices per liter. The site is run by Chile’s National Energy Commission.
https://www.bencinaenlinea.cl/
This info is especially important for those traveling through remote and isolated areas like the high plateaus of the far north, the Austral Highway, Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego.
Have a great trip and stay safe out there!
Thierry
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Thanks for your help!
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Thanks for your help!
Hi there,
I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca.
From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
hi,
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me. What do you think? What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Best regards,
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me. What do you think? What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Best regards,
Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition)
Hi fellow travelers,
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ
And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!
Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ
And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!
Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé
