A Ouaga il y a une circulation intense de mobylettes et de véhicules de toute sorte en plus ou moins bon état, dans des nuages de poussière.
Au milieu de ce traffic, des 4x4 rutilants, à la carrosserie étincelante, se taillent la route. Les vitres fermées, font présager de l'utilisation de l'air conditionné.
Ces 4x4 portent les insignes des ONG de toute la Terre, et de l'UNICEF.
Je pense que les salaires et les villas du personnel international qui se dévouent pour le Burkina doivent être au niveau de l'éclat de ces 4x4.
Alors pensez à acheter des cartes de Noel pour à l'UNICEF et aider à mettre de l'essence dans ces beaux véhicules et entretenir les beaux fromages de ce cirque humanitaire.
Les Africains à qui j'en ai parlé, n'aiment pas non plus cette charité arrogante.
Celà dit, il ne faut pas mettre toutes les ONG dans le même sac et je ne pratique pas l'autoflagellation: En autres j'ai pu admirer au Mali les pompes à main qui permettent d'approvisionner en eau, population et bétail.
De même combien d'expatriés se dévouent dans la brousse par une chaleur intense et dans un cadre de vie rudimentaire.
Je suis entièrement d'accord avec vous je suis rentré hier d'un voyage au Sri Lanka et j'ai vu la même chose, Unicef dans une splendide villa, et 4 4X4 tous neufs devant la villa.
D'autres ONG aussi vivent dans de splendides demeures avec piscine, à nous écoeurer de donner de l'argent pour cela.
Pendant ce temps là, les gens vivent encore 15 mois après le tsunami dans des camps ou des cabanes en bois, malgré tous les millions d'euros récoltés.
plus jamais je n achèterai leurs cartes de voeux
Oui mais tu sais les 4/4 c'est super pratique surtt à Paris où on passe bcp de temps ds les voitures c'est important d'avoir un habitacle confortable et spacieux.
Dieu sait combien je ne suis pas un chantre de l'humanitarisme et de la charité qui confine souvent à l'expiation du pêché d'être occidental, mais ce genre de message est je crois de nature caricaturale et risque de faire passer les ONG pour ce qu'elles ne sont pas.
90% d'entre elles (et l'unicef y compris) font un boulot formidable sur le terrain et sont composées de personnels plus qu'impliqués dans ces causes auxquelles ils croient.
qu'il y ait des excès, sûrement. mais ils sont peut-être dus à des problèmes organisationnels tout simplement : je suis directeur financier de l'UNICEF (imaginons, hein, je le suis pas en vrai), mes équipes à Ouagadougou ont besoin de quatre véhicules : je vais pas aller sur place écumer les marchés de véhicules d'occase dont je ne connais pas la fiabilité, j'achète et envoie quatre 4x4. Et un 4x4 neuf aujourd'hui ça a l'air conditionné (je hais l'air conditionné, je préfère largement ouvrir les fenetres, mais je constate : tout véhicule neuf a l'air conditionné).
bref, de là à dire que c'est bien, non. je dis juste que je ne pense pas que ça relève de la volonté de vivre dans l'opulence et la polution, mais simplement du fait que comme dans toutes les grosses structures, certaines ONG ne mettent plus parfaitement en adéquation leurs moyens avec les réalités du terrain et restent assez occidentales.
Cela ne doit pas porter préjudice à l'image qu'on a des gens qui travaillent là bas, peu d'entre nous feraient leur boulot.
Je ne suis pas non plus directeur financier de l'Unicef (tout juste administratrice sur une mission d'une ONG française) mais je rejoins complètement Soledad33. Pour travailler correctement en Afrique, il faut avoir un 4x4 et un 4x4 en bon état. Certes, en ville, il serait possible de s'en passer, mais les ONG n'ont pas forcément les moyens (même si elles te donnent une impression de richesse indécente) de multiplier les véhicules. Alors oui, nous nous déplaçons en ville avec des 4x4... et s'ils sont récents, ils sont équipés de la clim. C'est comme ça.
On peut aussi choisir d'utiliser des véhicules d'occasion trouvés sur place, mais dans ce cas il faut être conscient que les coûts d'entretien et de réparation sont énormes. Sans compter que ces véhicules seront régulièrement immobilisés, retardant d'autant les activités. Le matériel, même neuf, souffre beaucoup et tous nos 4x4 (Toyota Land Cruiser HZJ78, c'est le standard habituel chez les ONG françaises) ont le moteur refait avant d'atteindre les 100.000 km. Quand on sait que ces engins peuvent normalement passer les 400.000 km sans problème, ça donne une idée de la façon dont ils sont malmenés.
Autre information à prendre en considération : les ONG (et a fortiori les agences UN comme l'Unicef) disposent de conditions privilégiées auprès de Toyota et achètent leurs 4x4 bien moins cher que le grand public.
Encore une fois, je ne travaille pas à l'Unicef et ne connais pas leurs conditions, mais quand tu parles des salaires du personnel des ONG, sache que la plupart d'entre eux ont un statut de volontaire et non de salarié et que leur indemnité d'expatriation se situe en moyenne entre 650 et 850 € par mois.
Une dernière remarque : ce n'est pas parce qu'un expat est basé en brousse dans un cadre de vie rudimentaire qu'il fait forcément du bon travail. Le monde de l'humanitaire (un sacré cirque, je suis d'accord avec toi là-dessus !) a ses glandeurs, ses arrivistes, ses voleurs... comme le reste de la société. Il n'en reste pas moins qu'il contient aussi sa part de gens motivés et dévoués et que dans l'ensemble le résultat est plutôt positif.
A +
je pense quand même que l'argent récolté pour aider les peuples en difficulté ne doit pas servir en priorité aux 4X4 climatisés... Allez voir le site http://solidaritecroixdusud.site.voila.fr et vous comprendrez que les ONG sont les premières servies, lorque l'on donne de l'argent nous sommes assez naifs pour penser qu'il est destiné aux populations dans le besoin, mais lorsque l'on va dans les pays par exemple touchés par le tsunami, on s'apercoit des dérives des ONG, et que 15 mois après malgré les millions d'euros récoltés, ce n'est pas la population locale qui en profite mais hélas maintenant tout le monde croit avoir fait sa BA en donnant de l'argent, mais la misère et les sans abris sont bien toujours là. Par contre les grosses ONG sont très bien logées et font toujours des projets.... A méditer
Personnellement c'est ce que j'ai vu en mars 2006 au Sri Lanka
Chamee
Tu nous donne un éclairage interessant sur les ONG; je suis tout à fait d'accord sur le fait que le moindre déplacement en dehors de la capitale ne peut se faire qu'en 4x4 sous peine de rompre les essieus ou de s'embourber.
Mais il y a 4x4 et 4x4: Le 4x4 des villes et le 4x4 des champs.
Ceux de l'Unicef ou de l'ONU sont rutilants et sans aucune rayure ou bosse, ils bravent même la poussière, je ne pense pas qu'ils transportent des médicaments ou qu'ils voient la brousse sauf en week end.
Dans le flot de 4x4 à Ouaga (gouvernement, ONG, corps diplomatique, tour operateurs) on les remarque entre tous, ils sortent vraiment du lot, la classe!
J'ai remarqué plusieurs ONG: Terre des Hommes, Aide Autrichienne, Aide Allemande, Aide Japonaise.......... elles affichent un profil raisonnable.
L' image donné par l'ONU ou l'UNICEF à Ouaga serait celle des Petit Frères des Pauvres visitant un quartier pauvre de Naples en Cadillac. Quand on fait appel à la charité publique, on pourrait afficher un profil plus bas et se sentir plus responsable des fonds récoltés. Cette arrogance rappele celle du Paris Dakar. Et je doute que les fonctionnaires de ces organisations Onusiennes touchent les rémunérations que tu annonces.
Oui les ONG font un travail formidable. Je garde toutefois un dent contre l'UNICEF, pourtant prix Nobel de la Paix. As t'on entendu un murmure de protestation de la part de l'UNICEF quand son organisation mère l'ONU a organisé la mort de centaine de milliers d'enfants Irakiens pendant le blocus du pays.
"C'était le prix à payer" d'après Madeleine .
Quant au travail en brousse, je ne sais s'il est plus ou moins efficace que le travail en ville. On peut dire simplement que les personnes en brousse sont un témoignage plus positif que les agents du cirque humanitaire ONUSIEN.
En pleine chaleur à 40 °C et plus, même la nuit, je demandais à une coopérante en brousse comment elle pouvait dormir dans cette fournaise:
Elle s'enroulait dans des draps mouillés!
en y repensant, c'est vrai que tous les 4x4 avec des autocolants "unicef" etaient tous flambants neufs, à part ca, je n'ai pas vu l'endroit ou les membres des ong etaient logés mais en même temps vu le prix des loyers, je ne pense pas que le "luxe" dans lequel certains d'entre eux vivent coute tres cher...
cependant, ca fait deja depuis 1998 que je ne cotise plus a ce genre d'organismes tout simplement pour les memes raisons citées ci dessus excepté a MSF" car quoi qu'on en dise, au final les beneficiaires sont les personnes qui vivent dans la detresse meme si un chirurgien demsf peut se payer une villa en espagne et n'en profite qu'une courte periode dans l'année (apres tout les efforts qu'ils font vallent bien ce qu'ils gagnent)...
n'est ce pas elisabeth ??
Avec de la volonté tout est possible.
Je cherche un ou une partenaire pour faire le Tour Du Monde
J'arrive de cette destination depuis la France et par mes propres moyens !! je suis a la retraite et en profite pour visiter l'Afrique de l'Ouest avec mon épouse en vieux 4x4 et tout en bivouak et camping sauvage !! entre Mauritanie/Mali/Niger/Benin/Togo/Burkina/re Mali/Sénégal/ re Mauritanie/Maroc et route retour sur la France 21.382kms !!
Tout ça pour vous dire que j'en ai aussi vue dans d'autres pays, de ces 4x4 qui brille et qui sentent le neuf !!! pour ce qui est de ces ONG du Burkina, il y a beaucoup trop de "projet" sur le bord des routes qui ne servent a rient (tentative d'échange d'une case ronde, contre cabanne en parpaing carré) par contre c'est le pays le mieux fourni en eau !! il y a des pompes a main ou a pied dans tout les villages !! ce qui est trés bien pour moi, car c'est toujours ce qui fait peur de manquer en brousse !!
Aller les ONG !! on vous attend dans les pays voisin pour y faire fleurir partout des pompes a eau manuelle comme au burkina !!
PS: a Ouaga il faut rouler (pour ceux qui ont la clim) les glaces fermées a cause de la polution poussiereuse, de jour pa trop visible a par ceux qui porte des masques sur le nez, mais le soir tombé, dans les codes, il est dur d'y voir un vélo a 30m, sans lumiere comme tout les autres !!!! ces 2 "rails" de 2 roues est apellé "le chemin de fer", c'est a voir !!
Encore un travail pour les ONG : équiper tout ces 2 roues en lumiere
je ne discute pas ton experience du burkina faso, mais meme sans avoir fait 21 000 kms et baroudé dans mon 4 x 4 pendant des milliers de km, (puisqu'on s'est deplacés en camionette toyota)
Je suis tombé sur des villages comme menegou ou les forages ne fonctionnent plus et ou les bébés ont des yeux completement fermés par la conjonctivite.
ou des villages reculés comme du côté de Baagré où les femmes doivent faire 7 km a pied pour rapporter un canari d'eau...
venez voir sur cette adresse par exemple :
http://recherche.infirmiere.free.fr/voyages/burkina/galerie-photos/imagepages/image167.html
Je ne suis pas tout a fait d'accord avec ton impression d'opulence des pompes a eau
Il est vrai qu'il y a beaucoup de missions humanitaires au burkina, mais c'est peut etre qu'il y en a un grand besoin aussi ?
probablement aussi dans les pays voisins, les problemes n'ont pas de frontieres
Avec de la volonté tout est possible.
Je cherche un ou une partenaire pour faire le Tour Du Monde
Super !! quel voyage et quel courage !! il y a plein de coin que j'ai reconnu sur ces photos !! continuez comme ça !!!!
PAPY (déjà en manque)
C'est vrai ?
Comme le burkina est petit !!!
a quel endroit es tu deja allé la bas ?
en ce qui me concerne, pas reelement de manque car je vais suivre mes reves jusqu'au bout, je vais me trouver un terrain au burkina et je vais y faire construire une petite maison pour aller y vivre quelques mois dans l'année ...
faison connaissance, on pourait peut etre un jour s'y rencontrer ?
Avec de la volonté tout est possible.
Je cherche un ou une partenaire pour faire le Tour Du Monde
Tu as raison de douter que les fonctionnaires des agences onusiennes touchent des rémunérations de volontaires ONG. Ce sont des mondes différents. Structure, moyens, mandat : tout sépare les UN des ONG. Les comparer, c'est mettre au même niveau le marché de Rungis et un supermarché de petite ville de province.
Je le répète : les montants que je donne sont ceux des indemnités des volontaires. Sans avoir une idée précise des salaires offerts par les UN, je pense qu'ils tournent autour du décuple. Effectivement rien à voir...
A +
😎 SALUT !!
Je suis donc entré au Burkina par le Sud puisque j'arrivais du Togo !! poste frontière Togo>> Burkina>>Bitou/Tenkodogo/Garango/Tpéssé/Kombissiri/OUAGA/Kaya/Yako/OUAGA ici nous receptionons nos enfants qui arrivent de France pour passer 15 jours avec nous /Bobo Diolasso/Banfora/Gaoua/Diébougou/casse du parre-brise retour à Bobo pour réparation Bobo/Pâ/Djipologo/Bozo/Léo/Nebbou/Pô/Songo et retour à Pô/Tiébélé/Ziou/Zabré/Dassanga/Sela/Tentodogo/Dourtanga/Ourgay/Komin-Yanga/Fada Ngourma plein Sud sur Pama/vers l'Est par les réserves animalières Tindangou/Tambarga/Arli les falaises/Namounou/Diapaga/Kantchari et retour à OUAGA (nos enfants rentrent en France par avion) nous poursuivons par Koudougou/Débougou/Nouna/ à 30kms de la frontière au village de BOMBOROKUY nous casserons le disque d'embrayage !! bled où il n'y a pas de mécano pour ce genre de travail, nous y resterons une semaine pour réparation et ensuite c'est le MALI !!!!!
Voilà !! voilà !! notre périple du Burkina, pour les photos (superbes) j'ai reconnu la route de l'aéroport et le carrefour du grand marchand de pneus à OUAGA/ Les taxis brousse chargés de vélos/ le plant d'eau où il y a tous ces zébus/ la tôle ondulée où mes amortiseurs ????/la beauté des femmes Peuls / et tous ces sourires volontaires ......
De quoi comptes tu vivre au Burkina ?? retraite ??
😎 SALUT !!
Je suis donc entré au Burkina par le Sud puisque j'arrivais du Togo !! poste frontière Togo>> Burkina>>Bitou/Tenkodogo/Garango/Tpéssé/Kombissiri/OUAGA/Kaya/Yako/OUAGA ici nous receptionons nos enfants qui arrivent de France pour passer 15 jours avec nous /Bobo Diolasso/Banfora/Gaoua/Diébougou/casse du parre-brise retour à Bobo pour réparation Bobo/Pâ/Djipologo/Bozo/Léo/Nebbou/Pô/Songo et retour à Pô/Tiébélé/Ziou/Zabré/Dassanga/Sela/Tentodogo/Dourtanga/Ourgay/Komin-Yanga/Fada Ngourma plein Sud sur Pama/vers l'Est par les réserves animalières Tindangou/Tambarga/Arli les falaises/Namounou/Diapaga/Kantchari et retour à OUAGA (nos enfants rentrent en France par avion) nous poursuivons par Koudougou/Débougou/Nouna/ à 30kms de la frontière au village de BOMBOROKUY nous casserons le disque d'embrayage !! bled où il n'y a pas de mécano pour ce genre de travail, nous y resterons une semaine pour réparation et ensuite c'est le MALI !!!!!
Voilà !! voilà !! notre périple du Burkina, pour les photos (superbes) j'ai reconnu la route de l'aéroport et le carrefour du grand marchand de pneus à OUAGA/ Les taxis brousse chargés de vélos/ le plant d'eau où il y a tous ces zébus/ la tôle ondulée où mes amortiseurs ????/la beauté des femmes Peuls / et tous ces sourires volontaires ......
De quoi comptes tu vivre au Burkina ?? retraite ??
PAPY
Tu y as passé combien de temps au total ?
Comment je compte y vivre ?
J'ai pensé y monter une petite boite d'informatique, de toutes manières, pour l'instant il n'est pas question d'y vivre toute l'année, mais seulement quelques mois dans l'année
Avec de la volonté tout est possible.
Je cherche un ou une partenaire pour faire le Tour Du Monde
😎 Tout ça en 29 jours, je n'avais qu'un laissez-passer pour le véhicule d'un mois et un visa de trois mois !! sont pas capables d'accorder leurs violons entre police et douanes !!!!
😎 Tout ça en 29 jours, je n'avais qu'un laissez-passer pour le véhicule d'un mois et un visa de trois mois !! sont pas capables d'accorder leurs violons entre police et douanes !!!!
PAPY
tu as couru autrement dit ?
tout comme mon ami qui nous a conduit au burkina... il nous a fait voir plein de choses sans qu'on ait vraiment le temps de regarder...
lors de mon voyage au maroc, un type qui etait chirurgien en suisse et qui a tout plaqué a 50 ans pour venir vivre tranquile dans un oasis en plein desert m'a dit un truc que j'ai verifié et que j'aplique desormais :
il m'a dit : c'est lorsqu'on ne fait plus attention au temps qu'on ouvre les yeux, il faut se pauser quelque part pour vraiment voir comment les gens y vivent...
je vais voir si il avait raison...
Avec de la volonté tout est possible.
Je cherche un ou une partenaire pour faire le Tour Du Monde
Merci pour le clip, je me suis bien marré.
La charge est vraiment très grosse; en arrière plan il y avait le drapeau américain, peut être une allusion aux Evangélistes si actifs en Afrique?
salut papy
Je suis à ouaga et je voudrais savoir comment tu as trouver la route est du burkina tindangou-arli-namounou et éventuelle prolongation vers le W tansarga pour aller au niger
Arnaud
Pour moi c'est le sud (et pas l'est) frontière du Ghana
Bon goudron pour rejoindre Tindangou
Pour rejoindre le parc d'Arli, depuis Tindangou c'est de la piste, parfois c'est même de la "farine", nous faisons un nuage de poussières
Nous avons vu des éléphants au parc d'Arli (par accident) car nous étions en pleine réparation du radiateur du 4x4 de location de ma fille qui est venu avec sa petite famille nous rejoindre pour 2 semaines ..
La piste continu jusqu'au goudron de la N4 à Kantchari
Il y a des falaises avant Arli, où nous avons passé la nuit, les falaises de Gobnangou, après Arli son belle aussi ..
Si non c'est un mélange de forêt et de savane, pas grand monde dans ce coin
Nous n'avons pas fait un tour dans le W, ça nous aurait pris un jour ou deux de plus, nous avons le temps !! pas les enfants ..
Tout ce coin est vert jusqu'au Niger
Attention = pour entrer au Niger, ce n'est pas sur qu'il y a délivrance de visa frontière, mieux l'avoir avant
Bon périple dans ce joli coin ..
Nous sommes en 2012.. Malheureusement c'est toujours d'actualité...
L'(unicef a fait des dons de 4X4 au loto national et à la télé...
J'ai la preuve en photos...
Et les enfants?? Que deviennent-ils dans cette histoire..?
J'ai gardé le souvenir de mes missions en Afrique de l'Ouest dans un pays envahi par des réfugiés du Liberia et de Sierra Leone .
Les camps de réfugiés en peripherie des villes de brousse etaient facilement reperables , les cases de terre et de chaume etant recouvertes de baches plastifiées couleur " Bleu ONU" .
Regulierement je croisais de gros 4x4 blancs avec lettres ONU ou UNICEF marquées en grand sur les cotés , et puissantes antennes radio à l'avant . Quelles etaient les activités des types à bord , la plupart africains ? eh bien , tourner en rond en consommant leur budget essence , patrouiller , faire semblant de s'interesser aux problemes sans agir . Intrigué , j avais mené mon enquete aupres de la population !
Un jour j'avais demandé si je pouvais loger dans leur camp moyennant finances , ayant appris qu'ils avaient des chambres libres pour m'eviter des aller-retour quotidiens avec une ville distante ou je logeais .
Refusé pour des pretextes futiles , ces messieurs n'aiment pas trop qu'on aille regarder leur business de pres.
Par contre s'ils ont besoin de vous , ils savent venir vous trouver en s'imaginant que vous etes à leurs ordres
Alors quand je vois en periode de fetes ces stands UNICEF vendant des cartes de voeux , je pense à tous les gogos
qui s'imaginent que leur argent ira dans la poche des démunis .
Hello everyone on this forum!
I know in advance that what I'm about to say here won't please everyone, but honesty is a virtue, isn't it?
Here's the thing: for many years now, I've noticed a habit in French-speaking posts of using abbreviations left and right, as if to show that we're "in the know." Let me explain with a few examples:
- - In discussions about Peru, I see "Aguas" for "Aguas Calientes." And if it's Mexico, well, it'll be "Aguas" for "Aguascalientes"!
- - For Guatemala, "travelers" will say "Guaté." Come on, saying "Guatemalas" would maybe be the undeniable sign that you know nothing about the country???
- - Back from Indonesia, many will talk about how familiar they've become with the country's language: "bahasa." Of course, everyone will know what you're talking about, but it still gets on my nerves because the language (one of the many languages) of Indonesia is "bahasa Indonesia." "Bahasa" actually means "language," and you'll find this word of Indian origin ‘Bhāṣā’ (it's Sanskrit originally) outside Indonesia too: in Thailand, for example, any language will be "phasa" as in "phasa thai" (official Thai), "phasa isan" (what's spoken in northeastern Thailand), "phasa angkrit" = English, etc.
Am I an incorrigible nitpicker? Maybe. But I'd also find it ridiculous if a foreigner came and told me they visited "Monte" during their trip to France, when it was actually Monte Carlo.
I read a lot in English and don't think I've encountered such a habit among English speakers.
Who’d like to share their best and worst travel memories in a few lines?
For me, it’s watching the TAJ MAHAL at sunrise and getting chased by dogs at the top of a mountain pass in GREECE on the way back from ISTANBUL.
THANKS GUYS
This is my 15,000th post, and it's a message I would have preferred never to write.
Patrick—Yangguizi—won’t be returning from his trek in Uganda. His health betrayed him in the mountains.
Like many of you, I laughed until I couldn’t anymore at his travel stories. I met him in Shanghai, then in Istanbul... We scoured restaurants—he was an incredible expert on world cuisines. We relived Korea, China. Always brilliant, so sharp, so funny, so down-to-earth. Being even a little bit his friend was something to be proud of. I think I envied him.
Patrick is still out there, of course...
He found his happiness running across the world. He’s on his path. He never doubted that "the traveler doesn’t even know if he’ll return one day."
Not sure this would’ve suited him, but his departure devastates me.
Alright,
Farewell, you foreign devil. Safe travels.
hello to all travelers with their eyes wide open to the desert...
I’ve always wondered what I was "doing" on this earth. And why my father, who died a few months after I was born—a former youngest French resistance fighter—joined the First Saharan Motorized Company in Atar and spent the rest of his life repairing army engines in Algeria, Mauritania, Senegal, Mali (which didn’t exist under that name back then), Morocco, and finally Algeria, where my mother was born and raised. (Believe me, it’s not "cool" being the child of a soldier in a country occupied by France, and even less so the child of a "pied-noir.")
Of course, I never got an answer: the dead don’t talk, and the army doesn’t either.
But here’s the thing—I had photos...
So naturally, one day I hit the road. I wanted to see, to understand.
It’s thanks to VF that I was able to do a little research on crossing the Morocco-Mauritania border, and I’m grateful to its members, just as I’m grateful to all those who welcomed me on the road for 14 years.
For the past few weeks, I’ve been wondering if I should talk about this or not...
It turns out the Mauritanians changed my life by asking for my help... And that started as early as February 2012... (Did I owe them something? No answer to that question.)
Ah, the irony—they saw me coming. But when you’re handed sick children and begged to do something, what would you have done? I’d worked in a hospital, so I knew a bit about the rules to follow. I didn’t hesitate.
And well, over all these years, I met doctors, surgeons, and together we organized care, evacuations of children, training for surgeons—even trying to stop children from having to travel outside their country. It was never easy. I’d like to thank those who supported us, as well as *La Chaîne de l’Espoir*, *La Fondation Face au Monde*, and everyone who built bridges between our two countries.
Unfortunately, despite the constant efforts of Mauritanian doctors and surgeons, some children couldn’t be helped in time. Today, I want to talk about four siblings—orphans of their mother—suffering from congenital glaucoma causing irreversible blindness. Their case was entrusted to me in 2020, just weeks before the big lockdown. We couldn’t do anything for them then, but when their father asked me for a gift, I rushed to my computer and wrote a story.
Through a tale, the children take a great journey, explore their country, and fulfill a dream. I never thought this book would be published—it was, in 2023.
This book pays tribute to Mauritania. It’s a message for those who know nothing about the hardships of life there, carrying both the harshness and beauty of an immense desert where you can travel by 4x4, bike, on foot, or by camel in complete safety. It bears witness to the kindness of Mauritanians toward travelers.
As a woman traveling alone in my vehicle—a now-rusted old Mercedes that no longer runs—I had the most beautiful encounters of my life there (I’ve seen other parts of the world...). The blind children of Choum, Atar, Nouadhibou, and Nouakchott will forever be in my heart.
Volunteer readers transcribed the book into a free audio version for the visually impaired. It’s available in sound libraries in France, the *Fondation Valentin Haüy*, and the Swiss Romande library.
I made my last trip to Mauritania in my old 4x4 to distribute the book everywhere, especially to its heroes and the school for the visually impaired in Nouakchott.
After that, I thought it was time to close the chapter because I no longer have the means or the strength to travel.
My publishers chose this title for it: *The Blue Eyes of the Desert*.
This publication helped a mission of Swiss volunteer ophthalmologists come to operate on glaucomas in Mauritania. I’m thrilled because they come back every year!
This adventure is ending, yes—everything must come to an end—but ultimately, it was born here, on the VF site!! So yes, I had to say it: THANK YOU!!!!!
Hi everyone,
I’m Loulou, a French expat who’s been living in Southeast Asia for about fifteen years, currently in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. A passionate walker at heart, I’ve trekked in Nepal (Thorung La, Mardi Himal), India, Vietnam, and I’m still planning new hikes (Char Dham, Langtang, Annapurna).
I’ve just published my first travel journal, recounting three months of walking and encounters across India. A portion of the sales goes to an educational center I support in Kep, for children whose parents work in the salt marshes.
I’m also working on a second book about Nepal with a musician friend, focusing on the Mardi Himal trek—two independent perspectives on the same journey.
Happy to swap stories with you about the Himalayas, India, Southeast Asia, or just the urge to hit the road and walk far from home.
Safe travels,
Loulou
Hi! It was totally by chance that I stumbled upon VoyageForum (an ad online and a story lol), and I’ve been reading some really old posts from 2011 about Thai massage schools—discussions on how to get by, accommodation, prices, etc. It reminded me of my own experience: I kept things simple by staying with a local family during my entire trip. I only shared all the expenses with them, which, I’ll admit, was super cheap… and I often traveled with them, which naturally opened a lot of doors for me. To start, at the school in Salaya, my Thai friend immediately connected me with Teacher Phong (the school’s mentor and teacher of teachers, a former monk). I was supposed to join a group session with other foreigners, but for some reason I don’t know, I got two days of private lessons for free with this expert… incredible! And on top of that, he loved France! It was an amazing experience. I "discovered" massage by chance—the Thai family just told me: "Try it, you’ll see!" (I’d had a pretty intense massage in the capital before 😅… but the next day, I felt unbelievably great!))
Every morning, I’d take a taxi (chosen by the Thai family at prices that beat all the competition) to this school—I’ve forgotten the name of the little village now… right in the heart of the countryside. Then, in the evenings, I’d keep practicing massage on all the family members… and they’d teach me Thai at the same time!))
Since then, I’ve practiced a bit, with lots of positive feedback. Following Teacher Phong’s advice—he thought my pressure was deep, firm, and precise—he strongly encouraged me to take this seriously.
I love Thailand so much. It’s a whole different way of living… and it’s a real blessing, even if I couldn’t live there full-time. Anyway, that was an unforgettable memory, and sometimes the Thai family and I still say hi—from 2011, 2013… right up to today!
"It seems to me that poverty would be less painful in the sun" wrote Aznavour...
Not sure...😕 Who can prove that people in hot countries are happier than others?
What do you think?
Is it better to live in Montpellier than in Lille?
Are the Pygmies happier than the Inuit?
Are Canadians less happy than the people of Louisiana?
Are there more French expats in hot countries?
And your travels? Do you choose your destinations based on the climate?
Do you rejoice when a bit of sunshine appears?
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Hello everyone,
Controversial topic? Not necessarily—maybe just a reflection on a world to come.
I spent the last 15 days of August on a cruise in Greenland, from Kangerlussuaq to Tasiilaq.
I was utterly amazed by this unique world of rock and ice, the little houses in every color, a simple life that’s also complicated by isolation and climate, among other things...
I carry in my heart the kindness of the people I met, the raw and gentle majesty of the icebergs, the colors of the sky...
So, I can’t even imagine a massive presence of raw material prospectors, heavy machinery requiring roads to be built—if that’s even possible—changing their way of life... putting sled dogs out to pasture!
Do fast food and Greenland’s northern lights really mix?
I wouldn’t trade my memories for an ESTA!
All opinions are respectable, which is why this isn’t a controversy—but I’m sorry, I have a soft spot for *my* Greenland.