California! Nevada! Utah! Oh!
FR

Translated into English.

VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Day 24: Wednesday, June 5 ("Washoe Lake State Park" near Carson City - Dyer)

Route.



Contrary to what’s shown on the map, I took Route 120 (direct, pencil line) from Lee Vining to Benton. I think the display is because it’s winter and this road is currently closed (so it’s not accepted as a route).

I start the day by heading back to the historic villa district in Carson City, where I’d passed through quickly when I arrived.

"Bliss Mansion": built in 1879, 15 rooms, all wood, constructed by a lumber operator.



"Governor's Mansion": built in 1909, the governor’s residence.



"Orion Clemens House": built in 1864, home of Mark Twain’s brother.



Next, I head toward Genoa via Route 206, to the "Mormon Station State Historic Park" (20 km south of Carson City).



This is the first permanent non-native settlement in Nevada. It was a place where pioneers on the "California Trail" could trade, restock (there was a mill nearby), and repair (blacksmith) before crossing the Sierra Nevada. It remained an important trading hub in this fertile region until the railroad was completed.

The park and the cabin.



The statue of "Snowshoe Thompson," a Sierra legend and the father of skiing in California.



Born in Norway’s Telemark region, "Jon Torsteinssen Rue," known as "Snowshoe Thompson," carried mail between Placerville (California) and Genoa (Nevada) in winter from 1856 to 1876 on skis he made himself (3 meters long, with a pole for propulsion). He reportedly made the California-Nevada trip in 3 days and only 2 days the other way. His story is told in the cabin (exhibit room, small museum).

Then I take US-395 (Minden, Gardnerville) to "Topaz Lake," which is shared by California and Nevada.



A little farther, the road follows the "Walker River" (West Fork) gorge. This river flows from the Sierra to Walker Lake in the Great Basin.



Before reaching Bridgeport, there’s a view of the Sierra Nevada.



After lunch in Bridgeport, I planned to visit "Chemung Mine," an abandoned gold mine that operated from 1909 to 1938. You follow the reservoir north (Route 182), then, when the reservoir narrows, turn right onto a dirt road (Masonic Road). After about ten kilometers, you can’t miss the mine.



I should clarify: this is an ABANDONED mine (not a town). No one maintains it, and there’s no upkeep to prevent deterioration. I saw a sealed mine entrance, but the ore-processing building (huge) is collapsing in on itself, and it seems dangerous to go too far inside. Either way, I wouldn’t dare walk on the remaining bits of floor.





You can’t really learn much about ore processing from these ruins, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a building this dangerous with no protection (aside from, maybe, a "danger" sign, which isn’t really protection anyway). Incredible... in a certain way!

I head back down the dirt road, which offers beautiful views of the Bridgeport Reservoir (on the Walker River’s East Fork) with the Sierra Nevada in the background.



Back in Bridgeport, I go for a soak at "Travertine Hot Springs." I leave town on US-395 south, then after about 700–800 meters, turn left onto "Jack Sawyer Road," which leads there (about 2 km). On the parking lot, there’s an RV and three cars. The first pool is right near the parking lot.



After walking about two hundred meters, I find two more pools fed by a channel—a narrow gorge carved into a long mound.



Now, the two (or three) pools at the end of the channel.





Farther down the site, there’s at least one more pool.



I stopped exploring there and enjoyed the pools fed by the channel (hot bath temperature) with a view of the Sierra Nevada.

While I was at "Travertine Hot Springs," the sky, which had been clear and bright all morning, started to cloud over. It kept darkening, and the end of the day felt dim (like night was coming too early).

I continue south on US-395 and stop at the viewpoint over "Mono Lake."



After Lee Vining (where I’ll be back soon), I take Route 120 toward Benton, then re-enter Nevada. After skirting "Boundary Peak" (in the clouds), I arrive in Dyer via Route 264.

Night at "Esmeralda Campground" in Dyer.

The two evenings when I really felt like I was far from everything during my time in Nevada were: - This one in Dyer Valley - The one at Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. The sense of isolation for people living in these places must be something truly unique.
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Hi Sandrine, you're mixing things up. The question you're asking isn't about "Death Valley" but "Valley of Fire State Park," a state park in Nevada. Referring to a little brochure you can get at the park's Visitor Center, the road leading to the start of the hike is called "White Domes Road" or "Scenic Drive."

The recommended parking lot for "Fire Wave" is marked P3; it's pretty large.

Looking at your question, you can do a loop hike (shorter than mine) like this: -Walk south from P3 along the road for about 1 km. You'll find yourself near "Stripped Rock," "Pastel Canyon," and parking lot P2 (very small, from what I remember). -Take a left into "Pastel Canyon." Follow it for about 500 meters, and you'll reach "Fire Wave." -After seeing "Fire Wave," return to P3 by following the (well-traveled) trail connecting the two spots (about 1 km as well). My distances are rough estimates; it'll be really hot in July.
SA Sandrinech25 ·
Hi Michel,

Yes, that was a mistake you perfectly corrected ;-) Thanks for your tips! Happy future travels!
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Day 25: Thursday, June 6 (Dyer - Crowley Lake)

Route.



I came here for the rock formations at the site called "The Sump." So, I backtrack to the intersection of Highway 264 and Route 773 (Nevada 264 on the map). I turn right onto Route 773 and drive between 500 meters and 1 km. A track turns off to the right, crosses a very small wash (doable in a sedan), and arrives, after 1 to 2 km, near a much larger wash. I park. I get out and walk into the wash (sandy) and head upstream under a clear blue sky and rising heat. It’s impossible to get lost, and the approach takes about 45 minutes. I won’t see anyone during the entire hike, though a 4x4 is visible in the distance near the site.

I arrive near the site.



I keep moving forward in the wash and turn around.



Exploration is entirely improvised, with hesitations and backtracking, as there’s quite a bit of relief and a sometimes very crumbly ground to navigate carefully.









A slightly different area with distinctly white rocks.





I find a few isolated formations.





I manage to reach a high point from which I can see a whole section of the site in a row.





When I look back toward the starting point of the hike, the horizon is dominated by the "White Mountains" (White Mountain Peak and Boundary Peak, both over 4,000 meters high).



After this site, I head off in search of "Fish Lake Valley Hot Springs" (Fish Lake Valley is the official name of the Dyer Valley), hoping to take a dip like yesterday. From the intersection of Highway 264 and Route 773, I drive the 9.5 km indicated and find "Willow Road," the track that should lead there. But once on it, several tracks branch off—I didn’t note any specifics (poor preparation) and don’t know how far the hot springs are. I give up. I resume the planned route: Dyer, enter California, Oasis, a small pass, Deep Springs.



The road climbs toward another pass, "Westgard Pass," near which the turnoff to "Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest" is located. The access road starts at 2,100 meters and climbs to nearly 3,000 meters.
IT Iterfacimus ·
Hi Michel, Thanks for this travel journal—I’m following it with interest. You’re bringing back so many great memories for me! Reading you, I’d book a flight ticket right now to go back 😉
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Day 25: Continued

On the climb, I try to pay attention to the vegetation layers mentioned on a small sign. There’s "Utah Juniper" at the lower level, then "Pinyon Pine" a bit higher up. These are the two species found everywhere in Nevada’s forests.

The road keeps climbing, and the forest disappears completely.



We then reach a plateau with a bare section and another covered by a forest on the mountainside, made up entirely of a single species: "Great Basin Bristlecone Pine."



The road leads to the far end of the plateau. "Schulman Grove" (Parking, Visitor Center) is to the left, a few hundred meters from the intersection.



I’m at about 3,000 meters elevation. There’s a second site, "Patriarch Grove," accessible via a 10 km dirt road, but it’s closed (barrier, elevation reached: 3,700 meters, snow). Three hikes are offered; I’ll walk a few hundred meters on the "Bristlecone Cabin Trail," a hike the ranger at the Visitor Center advised against because it’s on a north-facing slope with icy snow. The slope where this hike is located.



I get up close to my first "Bristlecone pines"—the only species that adapts to these altitude and climate conditions. They’re the oldest trees in the world.







On another hike, the "Methuselah Trail," you can see the oldest tree (around 4,700 years old), but you can’t identify it—no sign distinguishes it from the others to prevent vandalism. I only walk part of the "Bristlecone Cabin Trail" before switching to the "Discovery Trail," which is shorter, developed, has explanatory signs, and is snow-free since it faces southwest. As the photos show, there isn’t a high density of trees; the root system is spectacular when visible, which is often the case.









The close-ups of the wood are just as impressive—these trees grow (very slowly) on extremely rocky soil.







All that’s left is to head back down to the intersection and then to Big Pine. From there, I take US-395 and drive to tonight’s stop: "Crowley Lake BLM Campground," in the sagebrush steppe at the foot of the Sierra. It’s a very basic campground, but it offers a view of Crowley Lake (photo tomorrow).
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Hi Fabien, Following your suggestion about the lizard photo in my post "Day 17 continued"—where you thought it might be a banded gecko—I started looking through image databases. It’s not easy because some details match while others don’t. The searches jump from one species to another, and in the end, the closest match (and one that fits the distribution area) is: "Great Basin Collared Lizard" or "Desert Collared Lizard," scientifically known as "Crotaphytus Bicinctores."

Just a suggestion, and I’m no more of an expert than you are.
SN Snakeyes Regular ·
Well spotted!

... side question: we love sharing this trip with you... but aren't you planning to find a travel companion to share these great moments with? 😇

As our late traveler friend Christopher McCandless so wisely said: happiness is only real when shared!
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Day 26: Friday, June 7 (Eastern Sierra)Route.



This morning, it's sunny but cold. In "Mammoth Lakes" (a town), I pick up some tourist info at the Welcome Center. I start by heading to "Twin Lakes"; it's on the edge of town at the end of "Lake Mary Road," which in winter ends near "Twin Lakes" (the road isn’t plowed at higher elevations). The shores are mostly snow-covered, and there’s wind on the lake, though I don’t really feel it in a small cove.



At the lake’s lower outlet, the wind (coming from the south) sweeps down from the Sierra and funnels through the valley where the two lakes are—it’s fierce and freezing.



I head back toward town; people are walking around with skis on their shoulders. I take "Mammoth Scenic Loop Road" to join US-395. A little farther on, I do the "loop of the lakes" (Route 158); the first two lakes (June Lake and Gull Lake) are calm.





The road changes direction, and the third lake (Silver Lake) is in a wind-swept valley (like "Twin Lakes").



About ten kilometers later, I’m in Lee Vining. I just saw (inclusion refused) that the number of photos per travel journal is limited to 300, effective March 9, 2020. I’ve gone over—I’ve posted too many. I’ll figure out what to do.

Written on March 11, 2020. I can’t continue this travel journal because I can’t include any more photos going forward. The trip lasted 33 days, with day 33 being the return flight day. I’ll write up day 33, but days 26 (only the start is written) through 32—seven days in total—will be missing. Six of those seven days all have the same theme: the Sierra Nevada. I want to think about how to write it and the total number of photos before I start. I plan to get to it within a week at the latest. I’ll edit this post to add the name of the travel journal and see if it works on the site.
MO Monike1 Regular ·
Wow, Death Valley is so beautiful—it's really one of my favorite parks. And the advantage of visiting in May is that the temperatures are much more bearable. We went there in August and hiked Golden Canyon in 48°C, and six years earlier, Natural Bridge in 52°C. Thankfully, we had brought water! I’ve always told myself I’d go back in the spring (now that I’m retired). Thanks for these amazing photos and this really interesting trip report.
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Day 33: Friday, June 14 (Montara Lighthouse - France)

I wake up at 3 AM and I'm ready to leave 10 minutes later. I open and close the youth hostel gate without any trouble. I chose this accommodation for an easy trip to the airport: 19 km north on Route 1, then 11 km of highway to "San Francisco Airport." The signage to the rental car return center is well done. At 3:40 AM, the car is returned; I barely have time to note the mileage on the odometer and grab my luggage. At that hour, the rail link to the airport terminal isn't running; a bus replaces the train. I don’t have a clear memory of the return trip: everything went according to schedule, smoothly (2-hour-40-minute layover in Montreal, arrival at Paris CDG on June 15 at 6:30 AM). I got home in the early afternoon.
GL Glll2012New Veteran ·
Hello

I just saw (inclusion refused) that the number of photos per travel journal is limited to 300, effective March 9, 2020: I’ve exceeded it, I’ve uploaded too many.

I’m new here too—this is news to me! So if you stay for a month, that’s 10 photos per day. Even if you only visit one site a day, it’s really hard to summarize things so briefly.

The point of the travel journal and the visual info it contains becomes pretty weak. Or else you’d have to create multiple journals, so the hidden goal (reducing photo volume) won’t be achieved.
DI Diamina Globetrotter ·
Hi Michel,

About ten kilometers further on, I’m in Lee Vining. I just saw (inclusion refused) that the number of photos per travel journal is limited to 300, effective March 9, 2020: I’ve gone over, I’ve added too many. I’ll figure out what to do.

Written on March 11, 2020. I can’t continue this travel journal because I can’t include any more photos in the rest.

I’m shocked by this limit.... Is VF trying to discourage forum members from keeping travel journals? I think we deserve an explanation!!

Anyway, Michel, thanks for this travel journal and for your perseverance.
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Hi Michel, This limitation is counterproductive! The photo quality was already degraded... And now, on top of that, we're limited to 300 photos—it's total nonsense. For a 30-day trip, with 2-3 sites visited per day, that means we’re basically allowed just 3 photos per site, including explanatory ones (routes, info signs, etc.). So we’ll be back to the old travel journals where we had to split everything into multiple parts. That’s what I’d encourage you to do, because your travel journal is fascinating!
MA Masterpo Globetrotter ·
This limitation is counterproductive!

By definition, when you limit production, yes, it's counterproductive. But that doesn't make it a bad thing.

The photo quality is already degraded...

Increasing the number of photos won't improve it.

Now, on top of that, we're limited to 300—it's total nonsense.

Yes and no. Some people don’t hesitate to dump their entire SD card as-is, posting one shot, then the same scene ten meters to the left, then ten meters to the right. Often with no comments at all. Reducing the number of photos will probably curb that kind of excess.

The text isn’t affected, and that’s really what makes a travel journal interesting anyway.

For a 30-day trip, with 2-3 sites visited per day, that means we’re only allowed 3 photos per site.

That’s already a lot. That’s 10 photos a day. Basically, one per hour. I think that’s enough.

Including explanatory photos (routes, info signs, etc...)

True, those are really useful.

We’ll go back to the old travel journals where we had to split things into multiple parts.

That’s definitely one solution. Is it a good one? I don’t know, but it’s a solution. And splitting things up when a trip has really distinct sections—why not?

That’s what I’m encouraging you to do, because your travel journal is fascinating!

Yes. The issue here is different. While I don’t think it’s unreasonable to apply this limit to new travel journals created with full awareness, I do think it’s excessive and unfair to limit journals that have already been started.
VO VoyageForum Globetrotter ·
Hello,

I'm shocked by this limitation.... Is VF trying to discourage forum users from creating travel journals? I think we deserve an explanation!!

No, Diamina, VF is just trying to survive... It's better to have travel journals limited to 300 photos (which seems very reasonable to me) than no site at all... When a travel journal has over a thousand photos, it takes up more than 1 GB of data on the site's servers for that single journal, not to mention the bandwidth costs to send those photos worldwide and the backup system costs that protect the photos in case of a disaster with the main servers. The situation is very critical right now for VoyageForum (we're not a mega-corporation...) and everyone needs to do their part. This means that members should simply preselect their best photos before publishing them on the site to reduce the hosting costs of their travel journals.

If VF's financial situation returns to normal, we can increase the limit or even remove it. But right now (and this is even more true with the impact of coronavirus on the tourism industry; advertisers/sponsors who pay for the site's hosting are pulling out...), we have no choice but to cut costs.

That said, we in no way want to discourage the publication of new travel journals (the amount of text remains unlimited and the 300-photo limit per journal seems reasonable to summarize a trip). Our goal is simply to better share the remaining space on our servers among all members who want to publish a travel journal, while slowing the growth of hosting costs (servers, bandwidth, backups). Unfortunately, some members seem to have thought our resources were unlimited (especially those who post over a thousand photos per journal without any preselection), which is why we need to set a limit today. Even the massive photo site Flickr is in serious financial trouble... We need to stop thinking that the internet is free and unlimited... 😕 For every click on a site, every page, every photo, every text displayed, there has to be someone paying for the hardware and staff resources used behind the scenes.

Best regards,

François, administrator and founder
VO VoyageForum Globetrotter ·
Hi Guillaume,

The photo quality is already degraded...

But what is this completely false claim? VoyageForum is one of the sites that applies the least compression to photos—so much so that it's practically imperceptible. Try a 4K screen (or a tablet with a high-DPI resolution) and open/enlarge a nice photo from a travel journal by clicking on it. The photo that appears will have a resolution of 2000 pixels wide (the actual photo file) to ensure the sharpest possible display for your screen... Show me another site the size of VoyageForum (or even bigger) that offers as much in terms of quality (imperceptible compression) and photo resolution... 🤪 We far exceed the highest standards for photo display. But apparently, that's still not enough for you... 🤪

This limitation is counterproductive! ... If now, on top of that, we're limited to 300, it's total nonsense.

Yeah, total nonsense... You have no idea... 🤪

Best regards,

François, administrator and founder
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Thanks for the explanations. When, in another thread, a prominent member predicted, among other things, the end of VF as a consequence of Covid, they weren’t far off the mark 🤪😕

I take back what I said, and everyone will adapt to these new rules for the good of the community.
DI Diamina Globetrotter ·
Hi François,

Sorry about the VoyageForum situation, and thanks for the explanations. Is there any way to help? It’d be a shame if VF disappeared. Starting a subscription... who knows, members might chip in... Even if everyone puts in just 1 €, with over a million members... and even if it’s only half, that should do it, right?🤪
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Hey Diamina, Great idea, but I’m wondering. 1 million members, but how many are active, and how many will be ready to contribute? Opening the fundraiser doesn’t cost anything, and we might get a nice surprise.

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