Après des semaines (des mois...) de lecture quotidienne des discussions sur le Japon – un grand merci à toutes les contributions ! – j’ai quelques questions sur les détails de mon itinéraire. Nous allons partir à deux pour un petit mois, de mi-mars à mi-avril 2010, et ce sera notre premier voyage au Japon (et premier vrai voyage tout court en fait !).
Voici l’itinéraire que j’ai prévu, avec une arrivée à Osaka et un départ de Tokyo (billets déjà achetés) :
7 nuits à Kyoto avec excursions à Osaka et Nara.
2 nuits à Hiroshima avec visite de Miyajima (et Kurashiki sur le trajet Kyoto-Hiroshima).
2 nuits à Kanazawa
2 nuits à Takayama
1 nuit Inuyama (principalement pour le festival du 1er week-end d’avril et le château)
1 nuit à Magome ou Tsumago
Puis départ pour Tokyo (avec passage à Matsumoto en route) pour 11 nuits (dont excursions d’1 jour à Nikko, Kamakura, Takaosan et de 2 jours à Hakone).
Est-ce que ce parcours vous semble logique pour un 1er voyage, sachant qu’on aimerait avoir un bon aperçu de la diversité du pays entre grandes villes, temples et campagne, le tout sans trop se presser ? Si vous avez des conseils sur des excursions ou visites à ne pas rater... :) J’ai volontairement omis Koyasan (un peu hors budget) et Himeji (rénovations). J’hésite encore entre un JR pass 7 ou 14 jours, il faut que je calcule...
Sinon, j’en profite aussi pour quelques questions plus précises :
- On espère profiter du festival de Kamakura, le 2e dimanche d’avril. Quelqu’un l’a déjà fait ? Est-ce que ça vaut le coup ou mieux vaut-il éviter la foule et y aller en semaine ?
- Même chose pour le Yayoi festival de Nikko. On rentre en France le 16 donc on va rater la grande parade du 17 avril mais y a-t-il des célébrations toute la semaine ? Si quelqu’un a des infos là-dessus ou sur d’autres festivals dans le coin, je suis preneuse ! :)
- Enfin, est-ce que vous auriez un hébergement à me conseiller pour notre nuit à Tsumago avec budget limité ?
Bonjour,
Je ne suis pas certaine que Takayama mérite deux nuits mais si vous arrivez un soir et repartez un matin, pourquoi pas. Pour le festival de Nikko, à priori, il commence dès le 13 avril. Par contre, je te conseille de prévoir une nuit sur place et d'en profiter pour aller jusqu'au lac Chuzenji et de faire une promenade dans le coin, c'est vraiment très agréable et le voyage en bus jusque là-haut également. Tu auras également l'occasion d'y voir des singes en liberté dans les arbres.
Pour le reste, cela me parait très bien. Comme tu passes beaucoup de temps à Kyoto et Tokyo, je ne crois pas qu'un JR pass 14 jours soit intéressant mais je te laisse faire tes calculs sur hyperdia.com!
Merci beaucoup pour ta réponse !
Pour Takayama, effectivement, on a prévu d'arriver en fin d'après-midi et de repartir tôt le matin donc ça nous fera une grosse journée sur place.
Pour Nikko, j'avoue que l'idée d'y passer la nuit me tente ! Je me demande du coup si l'étape à Hakone vaut vraiment le détour. J'ai un peu peur que le parcours touristique soit justement un peu trop "touristique"... Il y a peut-être une excursion à la journée qui nous permettra d'avoir une vue sympa sur le Mont Fuji...
Je vais réfléchir, et jeter un oeil sur les ryokan à Nikko (surtout si on finit par zapper Hakone, on pourra se faire plaisir avec un ryokan sympa) 😉
Je ne peux rien te recommander à Nikko, nous avions décidé de nous offrir un peu de luxe en allant au Kanaya Hotel et on a beaucoup regretté!
Par contre, je trouver dommage de laisser de côté Hakone et surtout le téléphérique au-dessus de la vallée d'Ohwakudani avec arrêt en haut et vue sur le Fuji s'il fait beau. Comme tu iras depuis Tokyo je suppose, tu pourras organiser ton déplacement en fonction de la météo mais franchement, c'est super même s'il a fallu me pousser fort pour que je prenne le téléphérique - très fort -
Sinon, j’en profite aussi pour quelques questions plus précises :
- On espère profiter du festival de Kamakura, le 2e dimanche d’avril. Quelqu’un l’a déjà fait ? Est-ce que ça vaut le coup ou mieux vaut-il éviter la foule et y aller en semaine ?
- Même chose pour le Yayoi festival de Nikko. On rentre en France le 16 donc on va rater la grande parade du 17 avril mais y a-t-il des célébrations toute la semaine ? Si quelqu’un a des infos là-dessus ou sur d’autres festivals dans le coin, je suis preneuse ! :)
Bonjour,
Je n'ai aucune attirance (ou réticence) particulière envers l'équitation, mais j'ai beaucoup apprécié de voir le yabusame (archerie à cheval) à Nikko, et à Tokyo. Sauf erreur de ma part, il y en a également au festival de Kamakura. Je pense que c'est une raison suffisante pour y aller.
Un festival au Japon, c'est une expérience à ne pas manquer. La foule est bon enfant, pas du tout stressante, et c'est à la fois le Japon d'aujourd'hui et celui d'hier.
Quel dommage, rater la parade de Nikko.. mais vous n'avez pas le choix, et vous allez vous rattraper à Kamakura. Votre itinéraire est excellent - on voit bien que vous avez travaillé le sujet avant de remettre votre copie 🙂
PS : je suppose que vous passerez à Shirakawa-go sur le trajet Kanazawa-Takayama ? ce qui justifie alors l'étape 2 nuits /un jour à Takayama.
Sheepie, suite à ton premier message, je m'étais replongée dans mes guides et c'est vrai que ce serait dommage pour Hakone. On va garder l'excursion de 2 jours et essayer de trouver une chambre pas trop chère sur Nikko pour à la fois profiter des festivités, des temples et des balades.
Marathon, je crois que nous allons malheureusement aussi rater le yabusame. D'après le site de Kamakura, ça a lieu le 3e dimanche d'avril. Le 2e dimanche, on aura quand même droit à une cérémonie avec des danses qui vaut sûrement le détour aussi ! 🙂
Pour Shirakawa-go, on n'avait pas prévu de s'y arrêter... même si ça nous tentait. En fait, on sera en plein dans notre JR pass, donc on voulait en profiter et ne pas payer le trajet supplémentaire en bus et "compenser" par la visite du village de Hida-no-Sato.
Pour vous, Shirakawa-go est à ne pas manquer ? On sera pile dans le coin, c'est vrai que ce serait dommage... Je vais calculer tout ça !!
Il y a vingt ans, Shirakawa-go était un peu hors du temps, car difficile d'accès, pas classé par l'Unesco, et quasiment inconnu des étrangers.
J'avais couché dans une AJ de rêve dans une gassho-zukuri, et j'avais été invité à prendre le thé dans un des villages par des habitants tellement intéressés par le passage d'un étranger.
Je suis retourné récemment, et c'est maintenant un site très/trop aménagé et balisé pour les touristes, et accessible par autoroute. Cela fait clairement doublon avec Hida-no-Sato (où je ne suis pas allé), et aujourd'hui, je ne critiquerai pas le fait de choisir le musée plutôt que le site authentique.
Shirakawa-go, ce sont plusieurs villages successifs, et l'idéal, c'est d'avoir loué une voiture. Peut-être que ça sera pour un autre voyage, où vous visiterez le Japon des petites routes de montagne.
Merci beaucoup pour ces précisions ! Je vais continuer à réfléchir, ça pourrait effectivement nous servir de prétexte à un autre séjour au Japon... avec Kyushu, Hokkaido et toutes les autres destinations qui nous font envie ! 😉
J'ai zappé le chateau d'Himeji la semaine dernière quand j'étais au Japon pour la même raison des rénovations. Sauf qu'à l'Auberge de jeunesse deux jours après j'ai vu les photos prises par deux australiens qui y étaient la veille. Aucune réparation apparente, ça m'a juste fait regretter de pas m'être arreté vu la beauté du site! J'ai pas pu y repasser parce que j'étais déjà bien trop short sur Kyoto (3jours et 5 nuits seulement). Sur le chemin Hiroshima / Kyoto c'est quand même rapide d'y passer, avec un JR pass c'est gratuit, si je devais retourner dans le coin, du coup je le tenterai... Je me suis à moitié rattrappé avec un passage improvisé et agréable au chateau de Matsumoto mais c'est je pense moins impressionant.
Sinon ton parcours est extra, vous allez vous éclater.
Donc pour info, et si j'ai bien compris, à partir du 16 nov. et jusqu'à la fin des travaux (en 2014), les visiteurs ne peuvent pas entrer par la porte est du château (mais sûrement par une autre !).
Pendant la construction des échafaudages (du 12 avril 2010 à janvier 2011), les visiteurs ne pourront pas entrer dans l'enceinte principale du château.
Enfin, d'avril 2011 à mars 2014, l'enceinte principale restera ouverte aux visiteurs en fonction des travaux effectués.
On y sera avant le 12 avril donc on aura sûrement la chance de voir le château sans échafaudages, cool ! Je me renseignerai à la dernière minute au cas où le planning des travaux aurait changé.
Merci encore pour ton message, on avait fait une croix sur le château à cause des rénovations et effectivement, ça aurait été dommage ! 😉
Ravie que ton voyage se soit si bien passé, ça donne envie !! :)
héhé, si j'avais su tout ça avant, j'y serais passé... :-)
Tant pis, une autre fois car ça m'a tellement plu comme pays et comme culture que j'y retournerai! Vivre là bas doit être super difficile mais comme "touriste" voyageur c'est juste génial.
Juste un petit message suite à mon retour d’un mois au Japon pour remercier à mon tour les membres de VF pour toutes les informations précieuses que j’ai réunies grâce à eux pour préparer mon voyage. C’était la première fois qu’on partait aussi loin, aussi longtemps et par nos propres moyens et tout s’est déroulé à merveille !
Un conseil à ceux qui hésitent encore à partir seuls au Japon : foncez ! Tout y est très clairement indiqué (romaji, anglais...) et les Japonais très accueillants. Sans parler japonais, on s’en est très bien sortis avec l’anglais et un petit guide de conversation FR/JP.
Au niveau du programme, on a fait le parcours classique (un peu trop peut-être...) pour un premier voyage : Kyoto et environs (dont Nara), Hiroshima et Miyajima, Kanazawa, Takayama, Magome/Tsumago, Hakone, Tokyo et environs (dont Nikko, Kamakura, Takaosan).
Comme ça a été conseillé récemment sur le forum, à refaire, je caserais sûrement moins de temples dans le programme. Après Kyoto, Nara et Kamakura, je n’ai pas pu apprécier Nikko à sa juste valeur. Malgré un temps très souvent pourri (froid et beaucoup de pluie), on beaucoup apprécié chaque étape ! Gros coups de cœur (entre autres) pour Miyajima, le sanctuaire Fushimi-Inari à Kyoto et Tokyo.
Pour revenir sur quelques questions qui reviennent souvent sur le forum :
- Pour le musée Ghibli (à faire absolument pour les amateurs !), on a acheté nos billets dans un Lawson à Kyoto fin mars pour une visite début avril et aucun souci. Une personne du magasin nous a aidés à utiliser la borne (infos ici : http://www.lawson.co.jp/loppi/ghibli/english.html).
- On est partis du 21 mars au 16 avril (ou presque...) pour la saison des cerisiers, en commençant notre parcours à Kyoto et en finissant à Tokyo. À Kyoto, la floraison commençait seulement mais à Tokyo à partir du 05/04, c’était la pleine floraison donc un spectacle magnifique dans les parcs d’Ueno et Shinjuku notamment.
- On a pris le JR pass de 7 jours en concentrant le plus gros de nos déplacements sur une semaine. À Kyoto, on a pris le bus et le train en achetant les billets à l’unité (très facile, bornes en anglais), et à Tokyo, on a tout de suite pris des cartes Suica pour éviter d’acheter les billets à chaque déplacement.
- On a pas mal dormi dans les Toyoko-Inn souvent recommandés sur le forum et ailleurs. Je les recommande à mon tour et conseille la carte de membre à 1500 yen (de mémoire) très vite rentabilisée quand on envisage d’y dormir souvent et qui donne notamment droit à des réductions le dimanche et à une 11e nuit gratuite (ou réduite si chambre double). On a fait ceux de Kanazawa, Nagoya et Asakusa Komagata (à Tokyo) et en avons été très satisfaits.
- Niveau budget, on n’a pas tenu précisément les comptes mais je pense qu’on a tourné autour de 5500/6000 euros (dont 1200 euros pour les billets d'avion) pour deux tout compris (avant la chute de l’euro 😕), sachant qu’on a choisi des hôtels plutôt économiques, idem pour les repas, mais sans se priver sur les visites ou les déplacements.
- Enfin, si vous avez l'occasion d'assister à un matsuri, foncez ! On a eu la chance d'être à Kamakura lors du festival du printemps et ça reste un de mes meilleurs souvenirs. On en prend plein les yeux et il y règne une super ambiance !
Bref, on a passé un excellent séjour et on en a pris plein la vue ! On pense déjà à y retourner, peut-être à l’automne, cette fois...
Merci encore aux contributeurs de la section Japon et bons voyages à tous !
Sympa ce ptit message du retour. Content que vous soyez aussi ravis par votre voyage, cet enthousiasme me rappelle le mien. La photo des cerisiers en fleurs est assez géniale en passant... Et je comprends pour Miyajima, l'île de rêve pour peu qu'il n'y ait pas trop de monde pour pouvoir apprécier ce calme dans un tel lieu...
Vous avez vu Himeji ou pas au final alors? Avec ou sans échafaudages? ;)
A+
On a bien vu Himeji, et... sans échafaudages ! Seulement, on n'a pu que le voir, pas le visiter tant il y avait de monde. Le hasard a voulu que ça tombe sur une des rares journées ensoleillées de ce début de printemps et tout le monde a dû en profiter. Du coup, 3 heures d'attente annoncées pour entrer dans le château. On s'est contentés de la visite d'un bâtiment annexe et d'une balade à l'extérieur mais c'était très sympa quand même ! :)
Pour Miyajima, c'est vrai que ça doit être encore plus magique d'y passer la nuit et d'en profiter une fois le flot des touristes passés. On a quand même pu échapper aux groupes en faisant la balade du Mt Misen (on a même eu droit à quelques flocons au sommet...) et la descente par le Daisho-in, très joli temple où on n'a croisé personne.
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
I’m heading to Yunnan in February 2027.
We’ll be traveling exclusively by train since my daughter gets car sick.
Our itinerary includes:
Kunming
Jianshui
Dali
Shaxi
Lijiang
Shangri-La
I’d love any tips, especially other places to visit (without winding roads) or great hotel, guesthouse, or minsu recommendations.
Thanks!
Claudine
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
I’m planning an itinerary for Hokkaido but I’m struggling to decide if late May to early June will be the right time.
Too early for the flower fields but…
What do you think?
Hi,
Our trip is planned for 20 days in Japan next April. We have a free subscription that would allow us to use 35 GB (I’m a bit confused), but we also need to be able to make phone calls with a French couple traveling with us for a few days, and that seems impossible due to cost... Any solutions for using GPS while keeping those 35 GB? Used to traveling in Southeast Asia, we usually rely on local SIM cards. Is it easy to do the same in Japan?
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Tialou
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
Hi,
I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed).
I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years.
Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.?
I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku.
Thanks.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
Has anyone taken the bus recently, especially the Busda bus from Dongsi subway station to Mutianyu or the special tourist bus from Qianmen to Mutianyu? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback!
I’m traveling solo to China on September 18th and I’m completely overwhelmed by all the info out there.
This isn’t my first trip, but it’s still tough to make choices, so I’m open to outside perspectives.
This time, the plan is southern Kyushu with a slightly more off-the-beaten-path twist.
I’m not sure if you’ll be able to help since I’m skipping some of the classics in Kyushu, but you never know.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether this itinerary is realistic in terms of time spent in each place, travel time, and the overall pace of the road trip. Just to note, I already have my translated driver’s license.
Here’s the itinerary:
- **Day 1:** YAMAGA / overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto
Depart from Osaka by train early in the morning to Kumamoto, pick up the rental car, then drive to Yamaga for a visit. Overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto.
- **Days 2–4:** HITOYOSHI / overnight in Hitoyoshi
Drive to Hitoyoshi for 3 days and 3 nights, including a visit to the town, nearby waterfalls, a walk along the Kuma River, a tea producer visit, and some craft activities.
- **Day 5:** AYA / overnight in Miyazaki
Drive to Aya, visit the town, craft activities, the forest, and the suspension bridge.
- **Day 6:** AOSHIMA - NICHINAN COAST / overnight in Miyazaki
Udo Shrine + Aoshima + scenic drive along the coast.
- **Day 7:** MIYAKONOJO / overnight in Shibushi
Drive to a waterfall, then continue along the Nichinan Coast if there’s anything left to see, or visit Kojima Island.
- **Day 8:** SHIBUSHI
Walk around the port and along the Osumi Peninsula coast, maybe as far as the Kishira/Hetsuka coast, or visit a black pork producer, a market gardener, or a tea producer. Overnight at a farm?
- **Day 9:** KANOYA / overnight in Kagoshima
Visit Ogawara Waterfall, Nishiharadai Park, and Kannon Cave, then Sugawara Shrine, followed by the drive to Kagoshima.
- **Day 10:** KAGOSHIMA / overnight in Kagoshima
Explore the city + whisky distillery in Hioki.
- **Days 11–12:** KOSHIKISHIMA / 2 nights in Koshikishima
- **Day 13:** AKUNE OSHIMA / overnight in Akune
Ferry, then drive to Akune Oshima with a stop at Sendai Taki.
- **Days 14–15:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Amakusa
Drive via Nagashima and visit Shimoshima (Amakusa).
- **Day 16:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Fukuoka
Drive back toward Kumamoto with stops along the way, return the rental car, then take the train to Fukuoka.
- **Days 17–18:** FUKUOKA CITY / overnight in Fukuoka
Possible half-day excursion to Nokonoshima, Munakata, or Nanzoin.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Too ambitious?
I could add an extra day but would prefer not to if it means less rushing around.
Hi everyone,
To simplify logistics, I'm considering renting a car for 5/6 days in the Japanese Alps before heading to Kyoto solo.
Is driving difficult or even risky in this region?
Thanks for your feedback!
Tara
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I saw there are several "authentic" villages about 90/100 km from Beijing.
Including: Lingshui, Liuliqu, Sangyu, Miaoying, and Cuandixia.
Has anyone visited any of them? I was thinking of choosing Cuandixia—what do you think?
Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone!
It seems there’s a flea market in Tianjin that’s way more interesting than the one in Beijing. I’ve been searching online but can’t find the right one… The one I’m looking for is called gu wan shi chang (my PC won’t display the Chinese characters…). Does anyone have the address and has anyone been there before? The one in Beijing has lost a lot of its charm over the past 10 years, so I wanted to find another. Thanks!
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change?
thanks
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
I haven’t found what I’m looking for despite my searches!
For a 15-day trip next spring, I’d like to buy a card (preferably an eSIM, but a physical SIM is fine too) that also lets me make calls in the country (to contact a hotel, a tourist spot, etc.).
You can easily find options just for data, but I haven’t come across any that include calls, texts, or even MMS.
Could you recommend something?
hi there
I’m planning a trip in September—here’s my rough itinerary. What do you think? Is it easy to rent a car to get around between my stops? Thanks so much!
Philippe
StopNightsFull daysSeoul44Gurye (Jirisan)43Suncheon43Namhae43Gyeongju21Seoul1—