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Ireland - Day 9 - Part 1

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Distance to cover: 282.3 km Estimated driving time: 05h56 Estimated time for activities: 05h35

Attractions visited: Kylemore Castle, Lough Inagh, Cong Abbey, Ashford Castle, Aasleagh Falls, Doolough Memorial, Bunlahinch Bridge, Silver Strand, Bertra Strand, Famine National Monument, Murrisk Abbey, Burrishoole Abbey, Rockfleet Castle, Kildownet Cemetery, Kildavnet Tower, White Cliffs of Ashleam, Doogea Beach, Minaun Mount.

9.1 The Bard Dens Hostel - Kylemore Castle (53°33'34.2"N 9°53'31.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/byWtQUBB9Sr 4.4 km - 00h06 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: 13 €

Kylemore Castle, a neo-classical style castle, was built in the 19th century. It’s located on the shores of a lake and surrounded by dense forest. It’s a major tourist site.

The site also includes a 3-hectare garden and a Benedictine abbey.

The castle has a tragic past. Henry Mitchell is said to have built it for his wife, Margaret. Shortly after its completion, the couple tragically lost their daughter. Margaret was so heartbroken that she passed away, leaving her husband in deep despair.

He had a miniature cathedral built in her memory, as well as a mausoleum where he buried her body. He asked to be buried near his wife when he died.

However, he sold the estate, unable to live in a place that reminded him of such sad memories.

The castle was abandoned for several years until the Benedictine Sisters took it over and opened a Catholic school for girls.

To fund the restoration and upkeep of the estate, they also allowed visits to some rooms in the castle, the garden, and the abbey. A fee of 13 € per person is required.

The suggested time for the visit is about 1h30. For us, we only made a short stop. The site was closed when we passed by because it was very early in the morning.

For photography lovers, there are currently renovation works underway outside the castle, and several scaffolds are installed, covering a large part of the castle.

9.2 Kylemore Castle - Cong Abbey (53°32'25.2"N 9°17'12.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/gj58D8HPMKB2 63.3 km - 01h08 - Duration: 01h00 - Price: Free

After visiting Kylemore Castle, we took the N59 road, which runs along Lough Kylemore, one of the largest lakes in the Connemara region.

We then took the R344 road, which winds through the Inagh Valley, offering stunning landscapes.

Lough Inagh (53°31'00.6"N 9°44'15.0"W) is a beautiful lake located in this valley, nestled at the foot of the Twelve Bens mountain range.

We got back on the N59 and made a short stop in Recess. I took the opportunity to photograph the Connemara Giant monument. It’s located in the parking lot facing Joyce’s Craft Shop.

Legend has it that if you touch the giant’s hand, he’ll protect you.

We then continued our journey (via the R336 and R345 roads) toward Cong to visit the abbey and Ashford Castle.

Cong Abbey was founded in the 12th century by Turlough O’Connor, the High King of Ireland. A monastic site had already been established in the same location in the 7th century.

The ruins still showcase the magnificence the site once had. Finely sculpted arches remain in the four corners of the inner courtyard.

Over time, Cong Abbey served multiple purposes. It was used as a hospital, a refuge for the poor, and even as a hiding place for the O’Connor family.

A small path starts from the back courtyard of the monastery and leads to the ruins of the monks’ fishing house. It’s actually a small stone house built on a platform above the river.

A trapdoor was installed in the floor to allow the monks to fish, and a small fireplace was even set up to keep them warm in winter.

Ashford Castle (53°32'04.7"N 9°17'02.7"W)

You can reach Ashford Castle via a path that starts near Cong Abbey.

A river flows behind the abbey. Just cross the pedestrian bridge over the river and turn left. A small path runs along the river and quickly leads to the castle.

This impressive medieval-style castle was built in the 13th century on the shores of Lough Corrib. It has since been converted into a luxury hotel.

It has hosted many famous figures, including King George V and his wife, writer Oscar Wilde, U.S. President Ronald Reagan, and Prince Rainier III and his wife.

The castle has belonged to several notable families and was later purchased by investors for the hefty sum of 50 million €.

It has undergone several transformations and expansions over the centuries.

The interior of the castle is only accessible to guests.

Several activities are offered, such as golf, fishing, and a visit to Ireland’s falconry school. Cruises on Lough Corrib are also available.

9.3 Cong Abbey - Aasleagh Falls (53°37'06.0"N 9°40'15.6"W) https://goo.gl/maps/JZoQLyCtpJA2 39.5 km - 00h50 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

This lovely waterfall is located near the village of Leenane, specifically on the Erriff River, just before it flows into Killary Harbour fjord.

There’s a small parking lot near the waterfall on the R335 road.

You can view it from the bridge over the river, but there’s also a path that takes you right to the base of the falls.

It’s set in an enchanting landscape—a great spot to wander around or have a picnic.

9.4 Aasleagh Falls - Doolough Memorial (53°39'58.2"N 9°46'53.7"W) https://goo.gl/maps/cJoWiFJzNb82 14 km - 00h17 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Killary Harbour, located in County Mayo, is Ireland’s longest fjord. The R335 road runs along it, offering breathtaking views.

However, be cautious—this road is quite narrow, and there are plenty of sheep grazing by the roadside.

We drove to the Doolough Memorial, which honors a tragic event that took place on the night of March 30, 1849.

That night, over 400 Irish people died during the Great Famine. They had been summoned to appear at an old hunting lodge the next day, and if they refused, they would lose all state aid.

They had to walk 20 km to get there. But exhaustion, hunger, cold, and illness took their toll. They perished.

To commemorate this event, a stone cross was erected by the lake, bearing a quote from Gandhi:

« How can men feel themselves honoured by the humiliation of their fellow beings? » (How can men feel honored by the humiliation of their fellow human beings?)

9.5 Doolough Memorial - Bunlahinch Bridge (53°43'06.2"N 9°53'19.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/PgrTowRjKB12 11.4 km - 00h17 - 00h05 - Price: Free

This stone bridge is located near the village of Killadoon. It served as a footbridge for pedestrians who wanted to cross the shallow river at this spot.

It’s the largest slab-stone pedestrian bridge in Ireland, measuring 50 meters long.

It likely dates back to the mid-19th century, which may coincide with the arrival of a Protestant evangelist colony that built a church and school by the river.

9.6 Bunlahinch Bridge - Silver Strand (53°38'59.0"N 9°52'51.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/JsZjwcJMXK52 9.8 km - 00h17 - 00h30 - Price: Free

Silver Strand is a stunning sandy beach near Killadoon. It’s considered one of Ireland’s most beautiful beaches.

Surrounded by mountains and high sand dunes, it’s very popular with families.

From the parking lot, you’ll need to walk several hundred meters across the soft sand to reach the sea.

This spot offers a magnificent view of the Inishtruk, Inishbofin, and Clare islands.

We didn’t get to see the sunset over Clew Bay, but it’s said to be the perfect place to watch it.

Ireland - Day 9 - Part 2

9.7 Silver Strand - Bertra Strand (53°47'18.3"N 9°39'40.6"W) https://goo.gl/maps/KAL9GYHdMnR2 17.3 miles - 00:34 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

We just passed through the small town of Louisburgh (53°45'46.5"N 9°48'33.9"W), which is located on the banks of the Bunowen River, as our next destination was Bertra Beach.

However, I took the opportunity to shoot a short video of the colorful houses and shops lining the main street.

Legend has it that the town was named in memory of the founder’s uncle, who fought in the Battle of Louisbourg in Nova Scotia in 1758.

Bertra Strand is very popular for hiking, birdwatching, and kitesurfing.

It’s actually a crescent-shaped beach that juts out into the ocean. This year, it was awarded the Blue Flag, a symbol of outstanding environmental quality.

We were supposed to walk to the end of the beach to get a view of the sea on both sides, but the rain and wind got the better of us.

Instead, we admired it from a distance.

9.8 Bertra Beach - Famine National Monument (53°46'48.6"N 9°38'23.0"W) https://goo.gl/maps/9rmLD2hc9EP2 1.9 miles - 00:05 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

This monument is located in Murrisk, near the Croagh Patrick Visitor Centre. It honors the Irish who left their country during the Great Famine around 1840 in hopes of finding a better life.

It’s a symbolic sculpture of a ship carrying a multitude of human skeletons. Their suffering is strikingly real.

At the time, Irish emigrants were required to bring their own food, though no more than 6.6 lbs per person. The crossing could take over a week.

Unfortunately, most were too poor to afford food.

Hunger, exhaustion, and disease led to the deaths of many passengers.

9.9 Famine National Monument - Murrisk Abbey (53°46'46.8"N 9°38'20.4"W) Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

A short road (maybe a hundred meters), perpendicular to the R335, starts near the Famine Monument and leads directly to this abbey. It faces Clew Bay.

This 15th-century abbey is now partly in ruins.

Our visit was cut short by heavy rain, but we still explored the site and discovered, among other things, a section of wall with a lovely pointed window.

Several old gravestones remain in the cemetery, including those of the O’Malley family, the abbey’s founders.

9.10 Famine National Monument - Burrishoole Abbey (53°53'54.4"N 9°34'17.3"W) https://goo.gl/maps/ECq2n6hyGUm 14.8 miles - 00:29 - Duration: 00:45 - Price: Free

After visiting Murrisk Abbey, we hit the road toward Burrishoole Abbey.

However, we made a quick stop in Newport, a small village on the shores of Clew Bay, founded in the 18th century.

Just before entering the village, there’s a small parking lot (GPS coordinates: 53°52'59.8"N 9°32'47.9"W) offering a stunning view of the Brown Oak River flowing gently under an impressive viaduct with several arches.

We could also see a large church built in 1914 atop a hill overlooking Newport.

Burrishoole Abbey is definitely one of our favorite spots. It’s set back from the main road, near the Burrishoole River. The place is incredibly peaceful—you can really feel a sense of inner calm.

This abbey was founded in the 15th century by Sir Richard de Burgo, surprisingly without the Pope’s approval. He had the archbishop’s consent but didn’t realize he needed the Pope’s seal of approval.

He built it for a Dominican order, became a friar himself, and lived there until his death a few years later.

By the 18th century, the abbey had fallen into disrepair, and the roof even collapsed. However, the building’s structure is still well-preserved, and you can see the choir, nave, low tower, south transept, and the cloister where the monks walked and meditated.

The cemetery is also lovely, with several gravestones dating back centuries—the oldest from the early 17th century.

9.11 Burrishoole Abbey - Rockfleet Castle (53°53'45.7"N 9°37'37.6"W) https://goo.gl/maps/ihuqVYNH1YE2 3.4 miles - 00:07 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

Rockfleet Castle (also known as Carrickahowley) is a 4-story fortified tower built in the mid-16th century.

Standing 59 feet tall, it was restored in the mid-20th century. It’s located on the shores of Clew Bay in County Mayo.

It once belonged to Richard Burke, who had to give it up to his ex-wife, Grace O’Malley, a famous Irish pirate, after their divorce.

It seems you can visit the inside of the castle. As for us, the door was locked when we went.

However, after some online research, I gathered that you can get the key from a nearby farm.

9.12 Rockfleet Castle - Kildownet Cemetery (53°53'01.2"N 9°56'41.6"W) https://goo.gl/maps/uEriTpqY5oD2 26.9 miles - 00:50 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

The drive between Mulranny and Kildownet Cemetery offers stunning views. You’ll see beautiful secluded beaches and countless small islands.

In some places, the road is lined with dense shrubs forming a hedge adorned with gorgeous rhododendrons.

Sheep are everywhere on this narrow, winding road—they’re often right in the middle of the road. Drive carefully!

The old Kildownet Cemetery is located on the Atlantic Drive, a road along the southern coast of Achill Island. Its seaside location offers a breathtaking panorama of the bay.

You’ll also find a ruined church that’s been partially restored. It’s said to have been founded in the 7th century.

In 1894, thirty young Irishmen traveling by steamship to Scotland for the potato harvest drowned in Clew Bay when their boat capsized in a sudden gust. They were buried in this cemetery.

A memorial was also erected here in memory of 10 young men from Achill Island who died in a fire in Scotland in 1937.

They had also gone to Scotland for the potato harvest. During the night, their cabin caught fire, and since the door was padlocked from the outside, they all perished.

Ireland - Day 9 - Part 3

9.13 Kildownet Cemetery - Kildavnet Tower (53°52'51.2"N 9°56'45.3"W) https://goo.gl/maps/zyipC4VxRjN2 0.3 km - 00:01 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

Kildavnet Tower is located 300 m from Kildownet Cemetery. It is said to have been built in the 15th century by the O'Malley clan, a famous family from Achill Island.

Grace O'Malley is said to have taken advantage of the tower's strategic location in Clew Bay to grow wealthy by imposing taxes on ships passing through her waters, earning her the title of pirate queen.

9.14 Kildavnet Tower - Viewpoint (53°52'38.0"N 9°57'59.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/JV7fPPhW7Eu 1.8 km - 00:04 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

We continued our journey along the Atlantic Drive toward Ashleam Bay.

We stopped by the side of the road to admire the southern coast of Achill Island. This area is incredibly wild.

The cliffs have been eroded by a raging sea, and the green pastures are dotted with rocks that must have crumbled over the years.

There are few houses, but plenty of sheep.

9.15 Viewpoint - White Cliffs of Ashleam (53°53'56.4"N 9°59'50.0"W) https://goo.gl/maps/zNeLHVq38RE2 3.5 km - 00:07 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

A few stops are possible along the Atlantic Drive to admire Ashleam Bay.

This bay is actually made up of steep rocky cliffs that jut out into the ocean. You can also admire a lovely little pebble beach nestled at the foot of the cliffs.

And, oh surprise, sheep... spotted with pink, blue... Sheep fighting over a pretty ewe...

9.16 White Cliffs of Ashleam - Doogea Beach (53°55'10.2"N 10°01'01.0"W) https://goo.gl/maps/EEa1nG6bWwP2 3.7 km - 00:06 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

There’s a small parking area by the road that offers a stunning view of Dooega, an old fishing village, and its beach, which was awarded the Blue Flag in 2017.

You can see it all at the end of the video in section 9.15.

9.17 Doogea Beach - Minaun Mount (53°57'26.7"N 10°01'35.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/JZa9wGruTon 10.1 km - 00:15 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

The summit of this cliff, standing at 466 m, offers a splendid panorama of Achill Island. You can see Croaghaun and Slievemore mountains, Achill Head, Keel Bay, and Trawmore Strand.

However, to reach the summit, you have to take a very narrow road (with a rather steep slope) that winds along the edge of a precipice.

There’s no escaping the sheep... They’re everywhere on the road.

When we passed through, visibility was partially reduced by the fog that was starting to envelop us. Still, we really enjoyed the view of this beautiful region.

9.18 - Minaun Mount - West Coast House B&B (53°58'33.9"N 10°06'47.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/Z7LYzoxtPZo 17 km - 00:23

This B&B is actually a large bungalow situated on a small hill overlooking the village of Dooagh.

Its privileged location offers an unparalleled view of Croaghaun Mountain and the rugged landscape of Achill Island.

The establishment has 5 rooms. Ours was clean and comfortable. Small, but with all the amenities and enough storage space.

The toilet, shower, and sink were located in a separate room within our bedroom.

Wi-Fi and breakfast are offered free of charge. The breakfast provided is said to be very hearty and varied: traditional Irish breakfast, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, etc.

However, since we had to leave the next morning before the scheduled breakfast time, our host quickly prepared a tray with sandwiches, cereal, and juice for us.

We obviously really appreciated this kind gesture.

We’re definitely more than satisfied with all the services offered by this establishment.

Ireland - Day 10 - Part 1

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Distance to cover: 264.2 km Estimated driving time: 04h44 Estimated time for activities: 05h15

Attractions visited: Keel Strand, Keem Bay, Moyne Abbey, Rosserk Friary, Enniscrone Cliff Baths, Queen Maeve's Tomb, Glencar Waterfall.

10.1 West Coast House B&B - Keel Strand (Trawmore Strand) (53°58'27.4"N 10°04'36.6"W) https://goo.gl/maps/NbM3Y6rtXBk 3.1 km - 00h06 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Keel Strand, also known as Trawmore Strand, is a 4 km-long beach.

It’s popular with water sports enthusiasts, including surfers who come to ride the crashing waves.

Signs indicate that swimming is only allowed in certain parts of the beach due to the possible presence of powerful rip currents.

10.2 Keel Strand - Keem Strand Viewpoint (53°58'09.9"N 10°11'36.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/oPP4xmZgJh82 8.3 km - 00h14 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

A few viewpoints along the way, including this one, offer stunning views of Keem Bay. You’ll see it for yourself in the video in the next section.

10.3 Keem Strand Viewpoint - Keem Bay (53°58'02.5"N 10°11'44.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/YsyuXPLg5vu 0.5 km - 00h02 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Keem Bay is accessible via a narrow, winding road. This part of Achill Island feels truly authentic and almost uninhabited. We were alone on the road, seeing nothing but sheep.

The stunning Keem Beach is nestled at the foot of towering cliffs, including Croaghaun Mountain to the east and Moyteoge Head to the west.

Its stretch of white sand contrasting with the turquoise ocean waters leaves no one indifferent. It’s always a joy for us to discover such beautiful places.

Note that there are also a few hiking trails in this area.

Basking shark fishing was thriving here in the 1950s and 60s. Their liver oil was exported for use as a lubricant in the aerospace industry. Fishing was done using traditional boats called *currachs*.

10.4 Keem Bay - Moyne Abbey (54°12'08.1"N 9°10'37.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/Yb6oRvdHxjp 106 km - 01h48 - Duration: 01h00 - Price: Free

One of the routes we took from Keem Bay to Moyne Abbey was absolutely spectacular. Both sides of the road were lined with towering rhododendron hedges. The purple flowers made the landscape even more beautiful.

This majestic abbey is located in a field behind a farm. For some, it might be tricky to find, but a small sign by the road points out its location.

There’s no official parking space, so we left our car on the shoulder.

To get there, you first have to cross a pen with a few animals. A sign on the fence clearly warns to watch out for the bull. Not exactly reassuring!

I couldn’t tell if the bull was among the animals. I certainly wasn’t going to be the one to take the first step into what I already considered an arena.

Alain went first. I hugged the stone wall and followed closely behind, trying to be as discreet as possible.

In my head, I’d already planned it all! If the bull was there and came toward us, I’d climb the wall.

Luckily, we made it through without any issues. The animals were pretty laid-back and just watched us.

Was the bull in the pen? I have no idea, and since we had to take the same path back, I preferred to pretend it didn’t exist.

It was raining heavily when we visited, but we were determined to see this abbey, which is still in remarkable condition despite being built in the 15th century.

It’s actually a Franciscan monastery, built in the Gothic style by the powerful de Burgo family. You’ll find a church, a cloister, and living quarters.

You can explore the inside of the abbey. There are two floors that are still accessible today, but since it’s a ruin, caution is advised.

You can’t help but marvel at the beauty and serenity of this place. The cloister walkways, where the brothers prayed and meditated, are among the most beautiful in Ireland.

In 1590, Sir Richard Bingham, the English governor of Connacht, set fire to the monastery. The brothers were persecuted.

Despite this sad event, the community of brothers lived there until the end of the 18th century.

Ireland - Day 10 - Part 2

10.5 Moyne Abbey - Rosserk Friary (54°10'18.1"N 9°08'35.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/geMVGAF48Zu 3.1 miles - 00h09 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

This Franciscan monastery, built in the Gothic style, was founded in 1440 by the Joyce family. Like Moyne Abbey, it was burned down by Sir Richard Bingham in 1590.

Despite the fire and the ravages of time, it’s remarkably well preserved.

The monastery consists of a nave, two chapels, and a bell tower. Several rooms can be visited, including the dormitory, refectory, and kitchen, which are located on the second floor.

10.6 Rosserk Friary - Enniscrone Cliff Baths (54°12'59.3"N 9°05'42.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/iz5Tg5f6ifJ2 15.2 miles - 00h28 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

The stunning Enniscrone Beach, over 3 miles long, is popular not only for the healing properties of its waters but also for its seaweed, which is renowned for its therapeutic qualities.

Along the edge of this beach, a white building with "Cliff Baths" written on it catches visitors' attention.

Built in 1850 by the Orme family, it looks like a castle.

However, it actually served as thermal baths. At the front of the building, there was a large pool carved into the rock, which filled with water at every tide.

During the hot summer months, mothers would bring their children to bathe there, earning it the nickname "The Baby Rock."

It’s no longer in use today.

10.7 Enniscrone Cliff Baths - Queen Maeve's Tomb Car Park (54°16'13.5"N 8°35'05.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/unzFw6SZnfQ2 35.2 miles - 00h51 - Duration: 02h00 - Price: Free

This is actually a prehistoric cairn located at the top of a tall mountain. The cairn is a massive pile of stones over 33 feet high, containing a tomb.

Legend has it that this is the tomb of Queen Maeve, a famous figure in Irish mythology.

There are two trails to get there. We chose the easier one since steps and walkways were built to make the climb to the top of the mountain easier.

Apparently, the other trail is steeper and slippery.

However, "easy" doesn’t mean the summit is easily accessible. It’s actually about a 2-hour round-trip hike with a steady climb.

When we were there, the fog was very dense, and the wind was clearly raging. That didn’t stop us from continuing the climb to the top.

On a clear day, the view is simply stunning. At the summit, the fog was so thick we felt lost in it.

On our way back, the fog had mostly cleared at the base, allowing us to enjoy the beauty of the surroundings.

10.8 Queen Maeve's Tomb Car Park - Glencar Waterfall (54°20'19.3"N 8°22'09.1"W) https://goo.gl/maps/it8W78FDaTv 12.7 miles - 00h24 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

Glencar Waterfall is located near Glencar Lough. It’s easily accessible via a short wooded trail.

At 49 feet high, it’s truly impressive and is considered one of Ireland’s most beautiful waterfalls.

Nearby, there’s a staircase that takes you to a higher level, allowing you to view the waterfall from a different angle.

The place is absolutely enchanting, with lush greenery all around.

10.9 Glencar Waterfall - Erne Manor B&B (54°28'41.7"N 8°08'17.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/4zesZRYEFbJ2 24.6 miles - 00h42

We spent the night at this Bed & Breakfast near Ballyshannon. It’s a beautiful large house secured by a gate requiring an entry code.

The interior of the house is stunning and very well designed. Our room was tastefully decorated, the bed was very comfortable, and it had an en-suite bathroom.

Breakfast is included in the cost of the stay, as is Wi-Fi. The meal is served on the second floor.

There’s also a lounge area with several armchairs, a pool table, and an outdoor terrace offering a great view of the area.

I have to share a little anecdote about our arrival. We had just finished a long hike in the fog, and our shoes and clothes were soaked.

When we arrived at the B&B, our host immediately came out and invited us inside.

I insisted that we change our clothes and shoes before going in, but our host asked us to come in anyway.

So we did. When she offered to show us around the house, I took off my boots. That’s when I experienced the most embarrassing moment of my life.

My socks were wet and smelled really bad. Every step I took left a mark on the spotless floor.

The smell was so strong it filled the air around us.

I’ve never been so mortified in my entire life!

After that impromptu tour, I quickly headed back to the car to get rid of those smelly boots and socks, then took a shower to regain my dignity!

Ireland - Day 11 - Part 1

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Distance to cover: 255.3 km Estimated driving time: 05h30 Estimated time for activities: 06h45

Attractions visited: Duff River, Creevykeel Court Tomb, Classiebawn Castle, Rossnowlagh Beach, Fintra Beach, Muckross Head, Muckross Beach, Slieve League Cliffs, Glencolmcille Folk Village, Malin Beg, Glengesh Pass, Assaranca Waterfall, Maghera Beach and Caves, Ardara Mountains.

11.1 Erne Manor B&B - Duff River (54°27'36.8"N 8°22'47.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/Sr6k4QDWivy 18.9 km - 00h16 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

We made a short stop here to admire the waterfalls along this river. There’s a parking area by the side of the N15 road near the bridge.

The trail starts on the other side of the road, close to the bridge, and follows the Duff River. The first waterfalls are accessible after a short walk.

This river is popular among kayakers. It’s 23 km long and features class 2 and 3 rapids over a 500 m stretch, as well as a 3 m waterfall.

The Duff River is also well-known for salmon fishing.

11.2 Duff River - Creevykeel Court Tomb (54°26'20.6"N 8°26'01.7"W) https://goo.gl/maps/dZPBocvDNDp 4.2 km - 00h03 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

This site is easily accessible since it’s located near the N15 road, with a large parking area.

It’s actually a monument dating back to the Neolithic period, several thousand years BC.

This cairn, about 50 m long, consists of an oval courtyard, a burial chamber, and three other chambers where prehistoric bones and tools were found.

You’ll notice that at the entrance to the small path leading to the site, ribbons, scarves, and similar items have been hung from the tree branches.

11.3 Creevykeel Court Tomb - Classiebawn Castle Viewpoint (54°27'48.4"N 8°27'58.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/k7h96Af7JZ42 17.3 km - 00h22 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

This Victorian-style castle was built in the 19th century and sits on a hill along the Atlantic coastline. Behind the castle stands the majestic Ben Bulben mountain.

It features, among other things, 4 reception rooms, 10 bedrooms, and 5 bathrooms, with the rest of the buildings reserved for kitchens and staff quarters.

It’s closed to visitors, but given its enchanting setting, a quick detour is a must for photos.

11.4 Classiebawn Castle Viewpoint - Rossnowlagh Beach Viewpoint (54°32'51.1"N 8°12'47.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/SvvhHKPZcjq 30.9 km - 00h28 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Rossnowlagh Beach, stretching 3.5 km, is one of Ireland’s best surfing beaches. It’s also been awarded the Blue Flag for its excellent water quality.

Since the bay is funnel-shaped, waves can reach up to 7 meters high, especially in winter.

You can park your car directly on the beach, but be careful—your car might get stuck in some spots, and the incoming tide can quickly cover the beach.

11.5 Rossnowlagh Beach Viewpoint - Fintra Beach (54°38'07.1"N 8°29'17.9"W) https://goo.gl/maps/r7s9XsVQciF2 51.5 km - 00h50 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Fintra is a stunning 1 km-long beach accessible via a very steep road that offers a magnificent view of Donegal Bay.

There’s a parking lot at the bottom of the road, right next to the beach.

It’s surrounded by high dunes.

It recently received the Blue Flag certification, awarded when the following criteria are met: environmental education and information, water quality, environmental management, and safety and services.

11.6 Fintra Beach - Muckross Head (54°36'31.0"N 8°35'29.8"W) https://goo.gl/maps/ogd3fgFns8y 8.5 km - 00h15 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

Muckross Head is located at the end of a very small peninsula. You’ll find a rocky platform that’s accessible at low tide.

It’s actually rocky cliffs formed by horizontal layers of sandstone and stones that have eroded to different degrees, creating an overhanging structure—making it an excellent spot for climbing.

Ireland - Day 11 - Part 2

11.7 Muckross Head - Muckross Beach (54°36'52.5"N 8°34'39.1"W) https://goo.gl/maps/is1gFEfc3xQ2 0.9 miles - 00:04 - Duration: 00:15 - Cost: Free

There are two beaches on the Muckross Head peninsula, located close to each other.

This one has parking and restrooms and is ideal for swimming. When we were there, there was a paddleboarder.

11.8 Muckross Beach - Muckross Beach 2 Viewpoint (54°37'02.3"N 8°35'03.0"W) https://goo.gl/maps/oSbQgzX6EFp 0.5 miles - 00:02 - Duration: 00:15 - Cost: Free

This second beach at Muckross Head is in a wilder setting. It’s perfect for surfing.

We didn’t go directly to this beach. Instead, we observed it from two viewpoints along the road.

Here are the GPS coordinates for the second viewpoint: 54°37'02.5"N 8°35'24.1"W.

11.9 Muckross Beach 2 Viewpoint - Slieve League Cliffs (54°37'38.8"N 8°41'04.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/Ec51VixNo152 9.3 miles - 00:32 - Duration: 02:00 - Cost: Free

The Slieve League Cliffs, over 600 meters high, are the second-highest cliffs in all of Europe. They plunge dramatically into the Atlantic Ocean.

There are two parking areas: one at the base and another at the top of the cliffs. When we arrived at the first parking lot, the road was blocked by a barrier. We just opened it and closed it behind us.

Not all vehicles can access this road to the top of the cliffs—it’s very narrow, and you have to navigate tight turns.

We took this road and parked at the second lot at the top. There’s a small restaurant on-site.

A viewpoint has been set up, offering a breathtaking panoramic view of these massive cliffs.

Two large rocks jut out into the small bay. They’re nicknamed the Giant’s Chair and his Table.

Actually, we weren’t quite at the top of the cliffs here. However, a trail starts near the viewpoint, running along the cliff tops and leading to the highest point.

We hiked a large part of this trail but didn’t go all the way to One Man’s Pass, a narrow ridge leading to the cliffs’ highest point.

One Man’s Pass is not recommended in strong winds—there’s no safety barrier or railing along the edge of the drop.

Our efforts to climb toward the summit were truly rewarded with spectacular views of the entire area: the cliffs, the ocean, the lakes, and Donegal Bay.

An experience just as enriching, if not more so, than the Cliffs of Moher. We were charmed by this typically Irish landscape.

Near the parking lot, there were also sheep in a small pen, and we could interact with them. I had a lot of fun holding one and feeding another with a bottle.

11.10 Slieve League Cliffs - Glencolmcille Folk Village (54°42'25.2"N 8°44'28.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/KUAqQhBXdzp 9.8 miles - 00:27 - Duration: 00:15 - Cost: 5 €

This is a reconstruction of a small, typically Irish village from past centuries, showing the daily life of people from that era—like agricultural work and household chores.

The village houses have thatched roofs and are exact replicas of homes from the 18th to the 20th century.

Just to clarify, we didn’t go inside the site. Instead, we headed to the other side of the street, across from the village, where there’s a stunning beach.

A trail has been set up there, and the hike is very pleasant in this area because the scenery is truly exceptional.

11.11 Glencolmcille Folk Village - Silver Strand - Malin Beg (54°39'55.8"N 8°46'38.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/qAHB2hk6TVH2 4.7 miles - 00:12 - Duration: 00:15 - Cost: Free

If this is paradise, then we’d love to linger a while.

Malin Beg is undoubtedly a stunning bay in a natural and rather wild setting.

The beach is worth the effort. You have to descend a long staircase to walk on the white sand of this magnificent beach. It’s surrounded by high, green hills.

The turquoise water is incredibly clear!

11.12 Malin Beg - Glengesh Pass (54°43'14.1"N 8°29'04.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/7RppK9CCSYp 16.2 miles - 00:38 - Duration: 00:15 - Cost: Free

The R230 road winds through a mountain pass connecting the towns of Glencolmcille and Ardara.

Actually, this road is really narrow, and the tight turns keep coming one after another.

Fortunately, there are a few stops along the way where you can fully enjoy the stunning landscape.

Ireland - Day 11 - Part 3

11.13 Glengesh Pass - Assaranca Waterfall (54°45'30.6"N 8°30'49.0"W) https://goo.gl/maps/FVtGZRw7ZXo 7.6 miles - 00h18 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

When heading to Maghera Beach, you can admire this lovely waterfall since it's easily accessible, located right by the road.

It's not very impressive compared to other waterfalls we've seen earlier in Ireland, but if you're in the area, it's worth checking out.

11.14 Assaranca Waterfall - Maghera Beach and Caves (54°45'44.3"N 8°31'37.6"W) https://goo.gl/maps/HwGEoMwfXeG2 0.7 miles - 00h02 - Duration: 00h45 - Price: 3 € (parking)

After visiting Assaranca Waterfall, we continued our journey (about 0.6 miles) to Maghera Caves.

A 3 € parking fee is required. A local family manages the parking lot.

It's best to check the tide times before heading there because if the tide is high, the caves might not be accessible.

Before starting our hike, we put on our rubber boots just in case there was water in the caves.

Our walk begins on a trail that winds through huge white sand dunes and first takes us to the beautiful Maghera Beach.

As soon as we arrived, we noticed the tide was quite low, and we’d get to explore a few caves. They’re located to the left of the beach.

Apparently, there are over twenty caves, as well as several arches and tunnels. Most of them can be visited by kayak.

We entered one of them. A long tunnel led us into the darkness. We could stand upright inside this tunnel.

Since we hadn’t brought our flashlights, we knew we couldn’t continue exploring in total darkness.

We walked along the beach by the cliffs. Some sections are truly stunning with their shapes and colors.

11.15 Maghera Beach and Caves - Ardara Mountains (54°44'45.4"N 8°33'34.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/qMwioZEHwWE2 2 miles - 00h07 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Most people who visit Maghera Caves turn back once they’re done.

But we continued on a narrow little road that winds up into the Ardara Mountains.

We made it to the mine at the top of the mountain and came back down the same way.

The valley is lush and green, with a beautiful river featuring a series of small waterfalls flowing near the road.

Be careful—the road is very narrow and steep. However, traffic is light. We were the only ones on the road.

On our way down, we spotted the sand dunes and Maghera Beach in the distance at the foot of the valley.

11.16 Ardara Mountains - The River House Hostel (54°57'02.9"N 8°21'30.3"W) https://goo.gl/maps/PAFKQ8E53V82 25.2 miles - 00h56

We only spent one night at this place. The welcome was very warm, and we immediately felt at home.

We got a nice big family room even though it was just my partner and me.

The bathroom is en-suite and includes a toilet, sink, shower, and toiletries.

There’s a large hallway with comfortable sofas. Games and books are available for those who want them.

There’s a kitchenette with all the necessary amenities. A continental breakfast was included in the price of our package.

Free Wi-Fi is available.

There are restaurants and supermarkets nearby.

11.17 Different landscapes along the way

Here are some images we captured from the car during our 11th day of exploring Ireland.

We didn’t note exactly where they were taken, but you’ll see not only typical Irish landscapes but also a big hare, some sheep, and a ram that took its time letting us pass on the road.

Ireland - Day 12 - Part 1

Videos are embedded in the text. Please click on the image or link to start the video.

Distance to cover: 199.95 km Estimated driving time: 03h41 Estimated time for activities: 08h00

Attractions visited: Errigal Mountain, Dunlewey Church, Grianan Aileach, Benone Beach, Downhill Beach, Downhill Demesne & Mussenden Temple, Tunnel Brae, Dunluce Castle, Giant's Causeway.

12.1 The River House Hostel - Errigal Mountain Viewpoint (55°01'23.3"N 8°09'01.1"W) https://goo.gl/maps/3R4A92RjNEK2 22.8 km - 00h25 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

This mountain, standing at 749 m, is part of the Derryveagh mountain range. It’s located in the northwest of the island, right in the heart of Glenveagh National Park.

You can see it from very far away on the road. It looks like an extinct volcano. We can go around this mountain range via two roads, either the N56 or the R251. We chose the latter since it offers an excellent view of the mountain and the lakes at the foot of the range.

Once we reached the village of Money Beg, we turned right onto a small road that runs along Dunlewey Lake. We were content to observe it from the side of this road.

However, it’s possible to reach the summit of Mount Errigal via the southern slope. The trail has a fairly steep elevation gain and is mainly recommended for experienced hikers.

12.2 View Point Errigal Mountains - Dunlewey Church (55°01'09.5"N 8°06'42.0"W) https://goo.gl/maps/ju3yLTyaR5n 3.8 km - 00h09 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

This 19th-century church sits at the base of Mount Errigal in a stunning valley. It’s surrounded by a multitude of rhododendrons that enhance the landscape.

Today, only the ruins remain, but since the structure is well-preserved, it’s still possible to fall under the charm of this church.

Built from white marble and blue quartzite, it was reportedly erected by Jane Smith Russell in memory of her late husband.

Its location offers a superb panoramic view of the mountain range, the valley, and the surrounding lakes.

12.3 Dunlewey Church - Dunlewey Viewpoint (55°01'29.2"N 8°06'56.1"W) https://goo.gl/maps/tCmYGCVGsA52 1.4 km - 00h04 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

This viewpoint is located on the R251 road at the foot of Mount Errigal. It offers a splendid panoramic view of Poisoned Glen valley, where Dunlewey Church is located, the Derryveagh mountain range, and Dunlewey Lake.

Why does such a beautiful valley have such a name? It seems a translation error caused this mix-up—the Irish word *neamh* means "heaven," while *neimhe* means "poison."

12.4 Dunlevy Viewpoint - Grianan Aileach (55°01'25.1"N 7°25'38.9"W) https://goo.gl/maps/fb49q3dsH4o 65 km - 00h58 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

This is actually a prehistoric circular fort, commonly called a "ringfort." It has undergone many transformations over time and is said to have belonged to a royal dynasty.

The fort was occupied until the 12th century, until it was invaded by the Normans. The fortress was later destroyed by the King of Munster.

In the 19th century, an archaeologist discovered the ruins of this fort, and a restoration of the site followed. Since the site remained intact, all that was needed was to reinforce the foundations using the stones that had fallen around the fort.

The fort’s enclosure is accessible through a small opening in the walls. Stairs then lead to the upper levels of the fort.

Since the fort is located on a high hill, it offers a panoramic view of the entire region.

12.5 Grianan Aileach - Benone Beach (55°10'06.6"N 6°52'32.1"W) https://goo.gl/maps/kKc3z698D5G2 54 km - 00h55 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Benone Strand is a very popular beach in Northern Ireland because it’s easily accessible. You can enjoy several water activities here.

It’s located between Downhill and Magilligan beaches. These three beaches form an 11 km stretch.

This beach has been awarded the Blue Flag certification for the quality of its services and environment.

Lifeguards are present during the high season.

When we passed by, it was raining heavily. So, the video doesn’t really do justice to the beauty of this beach, which is exceptional in good weather.

12.6 Benone Beach - Downhill Beach (55°09'58.2"N 6°49'16.7"W) https://goo.gl/maps/dRASo3BXJVM2 4.8 km - 00h06 - Duration: 00h15 - Price: Free

Downhill Beach is located at the foot of the cliffs where Mussenden Temple stands.

In fact, it’s part of an 11 km beach stretch that also includes Benone and Magilligan beaches. These beaches are Blue Flag certified.

Behind this beach is Tunnel Brae, which was built into the cliff to allow trains to pass through. There’s even a viewpoint where you can see this famous tunnel.

When we passed by, it was raining heavily. So, the video doesn’t really capture the beauty of this beach, which is exceptional in good weather.

This beach was a filming location for *Game of Thrones*. In the series, the place is known as Dragonstone.

It’s here that the Seven Idols of Westeros were burned by the Red Priestess Melisandre.

Ireland - Day 12 - Part 2

12.7 Downhill Beach - Downhill Demesne & Mussenden Temple (55°09'51.1"N 6°48'37.7"W) https://goo.gl/maps/Y52QvrHjrAw 0.75 km - 00h02 - Duration: 02h00 - Price: £5

There are two entrances to access this park. The first is located 750 m from Downhill Beach and is easily recognizable by its two immense columns topped with lions (Lion's Gate).

The second, Bishop's Gate (55°09'36.2"N 6°48'24.3"W), is about 1.3 km from the same beach.

The site is managed by the National Trust of Downhill Demesne, and the entry fee is £5.

We went to Bishop's Gate to start our visit. The weather was gloomy when we were there. It was raining heavily, but since we had an umbrella, we decided to brave the bad weather.

I imagine it must be really pleasant to walk through these meadows when the sun is shining. But with the rain and wind, the walk was rather quick, and our exploration was more rushed.

The first building we saw was a manor built at the end of the 18th century for the 4th Earl of Bristol: Downhill House.

In 1851, a fire destroyed a large part of the building, but reconstruction work took place about twenty years later.

However, after World War II, the site fell into disrepair. It was the National Trust that acquired the manor in 1980. Work was undertaken to make the place safe and accessible to the public.

The manor is truly imposing, and even though only ruins remain, the structure still standing gives a sense of the grandeur this building must have had in its day.

We then continued our hike to Mussenden Temple. It sits on the edge of a cliff, facing the Atlantic Ocean, and offers a magnificent panorama of the surrounding beaches.

It was built in 1785. Based on the Temple of Vesta in Italy, it served as a library.

Next, we visited the walled garden. In the past, fruits, vegetables, and flowers were grown here. Today, only apple trees and a picnic area remain.

Near the garden stands a round tower that was once used as a dovecote.

We then retraced our steps and took a slight detour to the cenotaph, a memorial erected for the brother of the Earl Bishop.

12.8 Mussenden Temple - Tunnel Brae ViewPoint (55°10'01.4"N 6°47'44.4"W) https://goo.gl/maps/5uzuNFdnsyq 3.7 km - 00h06 - Duration: 00h30 - Price: Free

We took a short hike along a small trail on the cliff edge to get a stunning panoramic view of not only the west side of Tunnel Brae—a tunnel carved into the cliff for trains—but also Mussenden Temple, Downhill Manor, and the beach.

12.9 Tunnel Brae Viewpoint - Dunluce Castle (55°12'38.5"N 6°34'46.7"W) https://goo.gl/maps/D4Uk1gcLqkA2 23.2 km - 00h28 - Duration: 00h45 - Price: £5

This castle was built in the early 16th century by the MacQuillan family. However, by the mid-16th century, the MacDonnells had driven them out and taken possession of the castle.

They further fortified the castle by installing cannons and other defenses.

In the early 17th century, Dunluce became the seat of the Earls of Antrim, and a small town grew up around it.

The castle was built on the steep edges of a rocky promontory. A bridge connected it to the mainland, making it nearly invulnerable.

Unfortunately, in 1639, a storm partially destroyed the castle. Some rooms, including the kitchen, collapsed into the ocean. The castle’s owners decided to abandon the site.

Today, only ruins remain, but several rooms, towers, and ramparts are still standing.

The view of the coast and cliffs from the castle is truly spectacular. It’s a dreamy place.

This castle was used as a filming location for *Game of Thrones*. In the series, it’s Pyke Castle, home of the Greyjoy family.

12.10 Dunluce Castle - Giant's Causeway (55°14'00.3"N 6°30'59.9"W) https://goo.gl/maps/EZfBFEfAnG52 7.2 km - 00h09 - Duration: 03h00 - Price: £10.5 (see note below)

The Giant’s Causeway is a major geological formation featuring over 40,000 basalt columns. Some reach up to 12 m in height. This site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The highest concentration of these formations starts at the shoreline, at the foot of the cliffs. At low tide, you can walk on this stone pathway for several hundred meters until it disappears underwater.

According to legend, an Irish giant once wanted to fight a Scottish giant. Since there were no boats large enough to transport them, the Irish giant built a causeway using stone columns to connect the two countries.

The Scottish giant accepted the challenge and crossed the sea to Ireland via the causeway.

Since the Scottish giant was much larger and stronger, the Irish giant’s wife had a brilliant idea: she disguised him as a baby.

When the Scottish giant arrived in Ireland and saw the "baby," he thought, *If the child is this big, what must the father be like?*

Terrified, he immediately returned to Scotland, taking care to destroy the causeway behind him.

Today, only these stones remain, forming the Giant’s Causeway.

Several other basalt formations are grouped around the main causeway. Be careful—the columns are uneven and can be slippery.

You can walk to the Giant’s Causeway (about 800 m) or take the shuttle service for £1 per trip.

We followed a small trail that gradually climbs the cliff to see more basalt formations. The view was just as enchanting on the other side.

We reached a viewpoint called the Amphitheatre, in the heart of the red cliffs. It’s named that because the cliff, with its multiple basalt columns, forms a semicircle.

We had to turn back because significant erosion had closed the trail.

From the main path, you can access the top of the cliff via a long staircase, but it was closed during our visit.

We returned toward the Visitor Centre and took the trail along the top of the cliffs. It offers a different but equally interesting view of the Giant’s Causeway and the surrounding cliffs. Worth doing if you have time and energy left! :)

P.S. Access to the site itself is free. However, if you use the site’s parking lot, it’ll cost £10.5 per person, which also gives you access to their shop and a 15-minute film.

So, following the advice of others who visited before us, we parked at the Bushmill’s Railway parking lot for £6.60, saving £14.40—about $24 CAD in our pockets.

12.11 Giant's Causeway - Portrush Holiday Hostel (55°12'33.1"N 6°39'27.2"W) https://goo.gl/maps/a77AXKbgWg82 13.8 km - 00h19

We only spent one night here and had a double room with a shared bathroom. However, we did have a sink in our room.

It’s a hostel offering comfortable and budget-friendly accommodation. Several types of rooms are available, including double rooms, family rooms, and dormitories that can sleep up to 10 people.

The location is great—just a few minutes’ walk from beaches, restaurants, shops, and several popular attractions in the area.

Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the property, and street parking is free.

Breakfast is free and includes bread, cereals, milk, jams, orange juice, tea, and coffee.

The shared kitchen is fully equipped, so you can prepare meals on-site.

There’s also a dining room and a lounge with leather sofas and a large digital TV.

The property is secured with a keypad entry system.

Ireland - Day 13 - Part 1

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Distance to cover: 181.4 km Estimated driving time: 03h45 Estimated time for activities: 09h45

Attractions visited: White Park Bay, Ballintoy Harbour, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Larrybane Quarry, Kinbane Castle, The Dark Edges, Torr Head, Caves of Cushendun, Glenariff Waterfalls, Hidden Village of Galboly, Cranny Falls, Belfast.

13.1 Portrush Holiday Hostel - White Park Bay Viewpoint (55°13'48.8"N 6°23'32.9"W) goo.gl/maps/4Pe65WtwNo32 21.9 km - 00h30 - Duration: 00h15 - Free

The coastal route of the Giant’s Causeway (Causeway Coastal Road) offers multiple opportunities to admire breathtaking landscapes.

About twenty kilometers from Portrush, two viewpoints (Magheracross and White Park Bay Viewpoints) have been set up, offering a stunning view of White Park Bay.

This bay features a long white sand beach bordered by high dunes and steep cliffs.

The valley, with its deep green hue, stretches out to the horizon.

The White Park Bay Youth Hostel is located in this bay.

This site has been under the care of the National Trust since 1938 and remains one of the most natural spots on Northern Ireland’s coastline.

13.2 White Park Bay Viewpoint - Ballintoy Harbour (55°14'39.7"N 6°22'08.3"W) goo.gl/maps/meQaJwA5xgu 2.6 km - 00h03 - Duration: 00h45 - Free

The road leading to Ballintoy Harbour is really narrow. Though it’s not very long, it’s quite steep with lots of tight curves.

We went there very early in the morning, so we were the only ones on the road. I doubt two vehicles could pass each other there.

It’s only at the very end of this road that you finally catch sight of Ballintoy Harbour, one of the most picturesque spots we saw in Northern Ireland.

We’re not the only ones who’ve been charmed by this landscape’s beauty. This place was used as a filming location for *Game of Thrones* Season 2.

In the series, it’s actually the port of Lordsport on the Isle of Pyke, where Theon Greyjoy lands to reunite with his father.

Several basalt islands have formed, giving the landscape a supernatural feel.

The huge cave in the cliff was reportedly used for building and repairing boats.

Sheep Island, across from the harbour, was once used in the summer to graze sheep. Nowadays, seabirds have taken over the island. We spotted quite a few during our visit.

Among others, we saw a common eider with its chicks, another eider, and some birds I couldn’t identify. Maybe you can tell me? :)

13.3 Ballintoy Harbour - Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Car Park (55°14'22.4"N 6°20'53.9"W) goo.gl/maps/MmPFf2o3et42 2.3 km - 00h05 - Duration: 01h00 - Price: £7

This pedestrian rope bridge connects Carrick Island to the mainland of County Antrim. It’s a hugely popular attraction, drawing over 300,000 visitors annually.

At 20 meters long, it hangs 30 meters above the ocean.

The bridge has existed for over 350 years and was originally used by fishermen who discovered that Carrick Island was a key spot for salmon migration.

In its early days, the bridge consisted of just a handrail and a few wooden planks spaced out here and there. Fortunately, the National Trust has invested a significant amount of money to modernize it and make it safer.

When we visited, it was raining quite a bit. We arrived early, and the site wasn’t open yet.

From the car park, a trail runs along the cliff and leads to the bridge. Along the way, we stopped often to admire the view. The steep cliffs meet the emerald-colored sea, and birds constantly swoop around while their cries echo in the distance.

We only explored the site and didn’t cross to Carrick Island. However, I filmed some crossings from the Portaneevy viewpoint (GPS coordinates: 55°14'02.2"N 6°19'42.2"W) near the site.

Access to the site is free. Crossing the bridge costs £7. Since this year (2017), it’s no longer possible to book in advance—you have to buy a ticket at the entrance starting at 09:30, and it’s valid for a specific time slot on the day of purchase.

13.4 Carrick-a-Rede - Larrybane Quarry (55°14'28.1"N 6°21'04.3"W) On foot - Follow the trail to the left of the car park when facing the sea. 0.25 km - 00h04 - Duration: 00h15 - Free

After visiting the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, we headed to Larrybane Quarry, about 250 meters from the main car park. Actually, this quarry serves as extra parking during peak times.

It was formed by numerous dynamite blasts in the area. In the 19th century, limestone was extracted here and burned in kilns that can still be seen along the coast today.

The site’s natural beauty is surprising.

The path continues toward the sea. I ventured there and discovered incredible cliffs. I wonder how they’re still standing with all the fractures time and erosion have caused.

This site, like many others in Northern Ireland, was a filming location for *Game of Thrones*. It was actually Renly Baratheon’s war camp in Season 2, Episode 3.

In that episode, Catelyn Stark meets King Renly. You can see King Renly and his wife Margaery sitting while watching a fight between Brienne of Tarth and the queen’s brother.

13.5 Carrick-a-Rede - Kinbane Castle (55°13'45.5"N 6°17'29.1"W) goo.gl/maps/HniYMiTefsS2 6.6 km - 00h09 - Duration: 01h00 - Free

This castle was built in 1547 on a strategic promontory. Despite its strong position, it was besieged multiple times, and each time, the fortress’s occupants were unfortunately massacred.

Today, only ruins remain. However, the castle is listed as a historic monument and is protected.

To reach the castle, you have to descend a long staircase and then follow a small path leading to it.

The castle itself isn’t very impressive due to its ruined state, but its location is what truly amazes you.

The promontory juts out into the sea, and you can see a huge cave that was reportedly used to hide the castle’s occupants.

The promontory sits at the foot of magnificent steep green cliffs. This site is relatively unknown and not very crowded, but its location makes it well worth a visit.

13.6 Kinbane Castle - The Dark Edges (55°08'04.7"N 6°22'50.3"W) goo.gl/maps/bGzhKFib8M62 15.4 km - 00h16 - Duration: 00h30 - Free

Dark Edges is a small road lined with strangely shaped trees. Their branches and leaves intertwine to form a dome over the road. The place is truly fascinating.

Actually, these trees are beech trees planted by the Stuart family in the 18th century to impress visitors approaching their Georgian manor.

There’s even a legend that says at dusk, a ghost—the Grey Lady—walks the road and disappears after passing the last tree. Many believe it could be Cross Peggy, James Stuart’s daughter, or one of their servants, both of whom died mysteriously.

This avenue was also used as a filming location in *Game of Thrones* Season 2, Episode 1.

It’s on this avenue, the Kingsroad, that Arya Stark fled King’s Landing disguised as a boy. She boards a wagon with Yoren, Gendry, Hot Pie, and others heading to join the Night’s Watch.

Ireland - Day 13 - Part 2

13.7 The Dark Edges - Torr Head (55°11'45.5"N 6°03'48.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/WnwyiXoc3nG2 15.8 miles - 00:31 - Duration: 00:45 - Price: Free

In this area, the roads are quite narrow. One of these roads leads to Torr Head. It actually ends at the foot of this hill.

At the top of the hill stands a coastguard station. Built in 1822, it was abandoned in the 1920s.

We took the path leading to this station. The hike is short but requires some effort since the slope is quite steep.

I don’t know if it’s always like this in this region, but I can tell you the wind was blowing very hard during our visit.

At the top, the view is truly spectacular. You can see the Scottish coast when you look out toward the ocean.

When you look inland, you can only marvel at the lush green meadows and the steep cliffs lining the coastline.

The ruined building near the parking area is an old customs post.

13.8 Torr Head - Cushendun Parking (55°07'40.5"N 6°02'35.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/fZcBh1QJksA2 6.5 miles - 00:19 - Duration: 00:15 - Price: Free

I invite you to join us as we explore a few sections of the Torr Road (Torr Rd) from Torr Head toward the town of Cushendun. The landscapes are simply breathtaking.

The village of Cushendun is located at the mouth of the Dun River at the foot of the Glendun glacial valley.

This picturesque coastal village was created by architect Clough Williams-Ellis at the request of Ronald McNeill, an MP who became the first Baron of Cushendun in 1927. Many artists have been inspired by the beauty of this place.

It faces Scotland. A distance of about 14 miles by sea separates Cushendun from the Mull of Kintyre, a Scottish headland.

The village has a long white sand beach, perfect for a walk or a picnic.

A large part of Cushendun village and its coastline has belonged to the National Trust since 1954. In 1980, the site became a conservation area.

A statue near the bridge pays tribute to a goat named Johann. The story goes that this goat always grazed in that spot. Unfortunately, in 2001, foot-and-mouth disease struck, affecting agriculture and tourism. This goat was the last to die from it.

13.9 Cushendun Parking - Caves of Cushendun (55°07'27.1"N 6°02'14.0"W) https://goo.gl/maps/V43oRJqJe982 0.5 miles - 00:03 - Duration: 00:30 - Price: Free

The Cushendun Caves are very old, formed by erosion over a period of more than 400 million years.

Easy to access, they can be explored freely, and there’s no entry fee. To get there, just take the small path to the right of the bridge. The site is at the end of this path.

Among other things, you’ll find two gigantic rock cavities. Their height is truly impressive—you can easily stand up inside them.

The tunnel of one of these caves leads to another opening facing the sea.

The second cave also has an opening at the other end, but access is blocked by a barrier. So, you’ll have to turn back.

This site was also used as a filming location for episode 4 of season 2 of *Game of Thrones*.

You can see Melisandre, the Red Priestess, in a cave near Renly Baratheon’s camp. She gives birth to a shadow creature that quickly disappears in a cloud of black smoke.

13.10 Caves of Cushendun - Glenariff Waterfalls (55°01'04.7"N 6°05'53.9"W) https://goo.gl/maps/uvnEoXEf5pS2 9.4 miles - 00:22 - Duration: 01:00 - Price: Free

Here are some images of different panoramas seen along the road between Cushendun and the Glenariff Waterfalls.

There seem to be two options for hiking to the Glenariff Waterfalls: starting near the Glenariff Forest Park Visitor Centre (paid parking) or from the trail behind Larah Lodge (free parking).

For our part, we started our hike on the trail beginning at Larah Lodge.

We first crossed a small bridge and took the first trail on the left to reach the first waterfall.

Actually, it’s more like small cascades flowing gently along a rock. The site is very pretty.

We then backtracked to take another well-maintained trail that follows the Glenariff River. The hike takes place in a lush forest. Other waterfalls can be seen along the way.

However, the Ess na Larach waterfall is the most impressive. It’s located toward the end of the trail, in a completely enchanting setting.

13.11 Glenariff Waterfalls - Hidden Village of Galboly (55°03'21.7"N 6°00'38.5"W) https://goo.gl/maps/Qh6PMsV7YnM2 6 miles - 00:12 - Duration: 01:00

Various panoramas seen along the road between the Glenariff Waterfalls and the hidden village of Galboly.

This village is located in the Glencloy Valley. It’s not visible from the road since it’s surrounded by trees.

In the mid-19th century, about sixty people lived there, mainly farmers. A hundred years later, only six inhabitants remained.

The villagers are said to have abandoned the village due to changes in farming practices and mechanization.

Additionally, the supply of drinking water was a real problem since residents had to fetch water from a source near the coastal road.

We left our vehicle in the parking area along Garron Road (A2) and continued on foot into the valley to reach the village.

The hike starts opposite the parking area. Just follow the path traced in the valley. There’s a gate that you must open and close immediately behind you to prevent the sheep from escaping.

We first climbed a rather steep slope. At the top of this slope, there’s another gate. During our visit, it was open. We entered this section of the valley and followed the stone wall.

After a few minutes of walking, we finally spotted the first building (Lower Galboly), which was a farm. As we approached, the other buildings of the village were revealed one by one.

The buildings no longer have their original roofs. At the time, they had thatched roofs.

Even though this village is in ruins, it has a certain charm. You just have to look beyond appearances and imagine what life was like here nearly two centuries ago.

For those who wish, the hike can continue to the top of the mountain. I walked a little further, enough to get an overview of the village.

The higher you go, the more sensational the panorama becomes, offering a magnificent view of the entire region.

13.12 Hidden Village of Galboly - Cranny Falls (54°59'50.8"N 6°00'51.7"W) https://goo.gl/maps/czk9kpZhSGP2 7.7 miles - 00:14 - Duration: 00:30

Various panoramas seen along the road between the hidden village of Galboly and Cranny Falls.

I read that the trail leading to Cranny Falls, about 2.5 miles round trip, starts in the town of Carnlough, right next to the Harbour Light Café (GPS coordinates: 54°59'34.5"N 5°59'23.2"W).

Actually, I think you have to go over the wall overlooking the main road and head toward the hill.

After some research, I also understood that there’s another parking area closer to the waterfall (GPS coordinates: 54°59'37.3"N 5°59'39.8"W).

For our part, we drove there via Waterfall Road. We parked along the road since there’s no available parking.

There’s a sign indicating the location of the waterfall. We just had to follow a short marked trail along the river.

The waterfall is located in a beautiful forest. The vegetation is very dense.

It flows into a limestone ravine, and the water gently cascades over several tiers.

13.13 Cranny Falls - Etap Hotel Belfast (54°35'31.3"N 5°55'57.6"W) https://goo.gl/maps/6myi7TdZcuu 36.4 miles - 00:57

Various panoramas seen along the road between Cranny Falls and the Etap Hotel in Belfast.

We stopped, among other places, on a road where a *Game of Thrones* billboard had been placed along the side.

It explains that some scenes from episode 7 of season 6 were filmed in this area (Sallagh Braes).

In this episode, it’s the Riverlands region. You see a group of peasants led by Septon Meribald building a wooden sept.

Sandor Clegane, whom Arya Stark had left for dead, was taken in by the septon and is seen participating in the work.

However, he wanders off to cut wood in the forest. Suddenly, he hears screams coming from the camp. He rushes to the scene to find the group massacred and the septon hanged.

That’s when he uses his axe not to cut wood but to seek justice.

We arrived at the Etap Hotel in Belfast at the end of the day. We were very well received by the staff present upon our arrival. We spent one night there.

It offers excellent value for money and is located in the city center, close to several tourist attractions.

We managed to find free parking near the hotel. They’re a rare commodity. However, the hotel can give you the address of a parking space at a preferential rate.

Our room is small, sure, but it suits us perfectly. The bed is comfortable, and all amenities are available: bathroom, shower, air conditioning, TV, and Wi-Fi.

The hotel has 146 rooms spread over 6 floors. The reception is open 24 hours.

Pets are allowed for an additional £5 per animal per day.

Breakfast buffet is available for an extra charge.

Visit to Belfast Duration: 02:00

Belfast is the capital of Northern Ireland.

Since we arrived in the city late in the day, we had little time to visit it. However, we fell in love with it.

We set off on foot from the Etap Hotel, where we would spend the night, to explore the surroundings.

Historic buildings follow one another at a rapid pace. Many of them date from the 19th and 20th centuries and are Victorian in style, with unparalleled beauty.

We would have loved to have the opportunity to explore this magnificent city further, but at least what we saw completely charmed us.

Ireland - Day 14

Videos are embedded in the text. Please click on the image or link to start the video.

Distance to cover: 177 km Estimated driving time: 01h50 Estimated time for activities: 08h00

14.1 Etap Hotel Belfast - Ibis Hotel Dublin (53°19'06.2"N 6°22'19.9"W) https://goo.gl/maps/5bjgU8oFNdp 177 km - 01h50

Our last day in Ireland. We left Belfast very early to head to the Ibis Hotel in Dublin. We’ll spend our last night in Ireland there.

Since it was early, our room wasn’t ready yet. However, we were able to leave our car in the hotel’s parking space since the reception gave us a pass to hang on the rearview mirror.

We took the tram from the station near the hotel to get to Dublin’s city center.

Of course, you can’t explore all of Dublin in just one day. Still, we managed to discover part of this charming city on foot, by boat, and by bus.

14.2 Exploring Dublin on foot

The city of Dublin is split in two by the River Liffey, which runs through it. A promenade has even been built along this waterway.

Several bridges span the river, but the Ha'penny Bridge—officially called the Liffey Bridge—is the oldest metal bridge in the city. It was built in 1816.

Back then, crossings were made by ferry. However, since they were poorly maintained and needed renovations, William Walsh, who managed the fleet, decided to build this bridge instead. He was allowed to charge half a penny to each person who crossed it. The toll was abolished three years later.

We strolled along O'Connell Street, one of the main thoroughfares in the city center and one of the widest avenues in all of Europe.

Highly frequented, it features not only many historical monuments but also restaurants, bars, and various types of accommodation.

A sculpture stands right in the middle of this street. It’s actually the Spire, a gigantic 120-meter-tall column that’s said to be the tallest sculpture in the world. Its height helps us get our bearings in the city!

We also visited Temple Bar, a famous district in Dublin’s historic center that includes many bars, restaurants, cultural centers, and shops. Very touristy, the area is perfect for getting a taste of Dublin’s cultural scene.

14.3 Exploring Dublin by boat

To get a different view of Dublin, we decided to take a cruise on the River Liffey.

Tickets can be bought directly on-site at the ticket office on the promenade (Bachelor Walk) or on the Dublin Discovered Boat Tours website at: http://www.dublindiscovered.ie/. The ticket costs 15 € per person.

We sat comfortably, and the large windows gave us an excellent panoramic view.

The cruise lasts about 45 minutes. A guide is present, narrating the tour with fun facts and pointing out various landmarks and buildings along the river.

14.4 Exploring Dublin with the Hop On Hop Off bus

What better way to discover Dublin’s most popular attractions than by hopping on this bus?

The ticket costs 25 € per person and allows you to board and disembark as many times as you want within 48 hours.

The ticket also gives you discounts at certain establishments and even a free beer in some bars.

The tour of the different attractions is narrated in several languages.

Since we were short on time, we did the full route without any stops. Still, it allowed us to see Dublin’s main tourist spots.

The route takes nearly 3 hours and covers around twenty attractions.

For more info, here’s their website: https://citysightseeingdublin.ie/.

14.5 The Temple Bar

Located in the Temple Bar district, this Irish pub is a must-visit in Dublin. We went there during the day, and it was already packed.

The decor is typically Irish and very cozy. A musician was already warming up the atmosphere for the many listeners during our visit.

14.6 Ibis Hotel Dublin

After spending a wonderful day in Dublin’s city center, we took the tram back to our hotel.

The Ibis Hotel Dublin is located near the highway, making it easy to get to the airport or reach the city center by tram. It has ample parking.

The hotel’s decor is very modern. Our room was comfortable and included a bathroom with a shower.

The hotel also has a restaurant and a bar.

Wi-Fi is available free of charge throughout the property. However, breakfast is not included in the package price.

We can recommend this hotel without hesitation. The staff is very attentive and quick to respond to our needs.

-- END --

Hi there! 🙂

It really did take a lot of prep before, during, and after the trip.

I hope all the effort I put into this summary will be helpful for anyone planning to visit Ireland.

Have a great day!

Wow, so much info!

Thanks for this travel journal—I’m planning a trip to Ireland for mid-April, and I’m sure I’ll find tons of useful tips in your post. 😉

Hi ITW88,

Thanks so much for your interest in my travel journal! I hope it’ll be really helpful as you plan your next trip! 🙂

Have a great day!

Amazing travel journal!! Truly a journey in itself from your armchair—enough to inspire plenty of trips. I’ve visited this country twice (well, I’m closer than you are), but these pages and videos really make me want to go back.

Incredible work, but I’m sure it’s done with passion and joy.

Best regards,

Bernard_BAYLE

Hi Bernard,

Thank you so much for your kind comments!

Absolutely, if the distance weren’t so great, Ireland is a country I’d definitely revisit—it has so many amazing attractions.

But there are so many other places to discover too!

And yes, it takes a lot of passion and perseverance to summarize and turn such a trip into videos.

Still, as you put it so well, it’s pure joy to rediscover the places we’d visited.

Have a great day! 🙂

Anne

What a fantastic travel journal! Since I’m currently planning our upcoming trip to Ireland for next summer, I feel like I’m going to get tons of great tips from this. Thanks in advance! :)

Hi Charlotte,

I hope you’ll find all the information in this travel journal. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you need any additional details.

I’ll do my best to help!

Have a great day!

Anne