Je prépare un voyage de 17 jours en Namibie pour Avril 2011. Après avoir regardé ce qui m’intéresserait le plus, j’ai tracé un premier itinéraire approximatif, tout en étant assez précis.
Toutefois, à ce niveau, je m’interroge sur la faisabilité de certaines étapes, notamment en raison de l’état des routes gravillonnées. Dans la mesure où je louerai une voiture « classique » (2x2), je voudrais avoir des renseignements sur l’état des routes secondaires, non goudronnées.
Par exemple, je prévois une étape Swakopmund – Nauklunft, représentant environ 300 km de routes non goudronnées. Il est recommandé de ne pas rouler à plus de 80 km/h sur ce genre de route, mais une telle moyenne est-elle vraiment tenable (au-délà des ralentissements nécessaires), ou faut-il compter une moyenne inférieure ???
Pour 17 jours, je prévois un itinéraire d’environ 3600 km, soit environ 210 km par jour. D’après vos expériences, est-ce un itinéraire raisonnable ?
Par avance, merci pour toutes vos réponses sur vos expériences liées à l’état de la route en Namibie.
Je suis un peu plus rassuré sur l'état des routes qui semblent tout à fait praticables pour une 2x2 ... En revanche, je crois comprendre qu'il faut vraiment compter sur des moyennes "tranquilles" de 50 à 80 km/h ...
Du coup, je serais tenté de me dire que je peux aller sans trop de crainte sur les routes gravillonnées, mais d'éviter de prévoir des longues étapes ... Qu'en pensez-vous ?
Par avance, merci pour vos commentaires ... 🙂
et bravo aux auteurs du site cité plus haut !
La plupart des routes namibiennes sont très roulantes en voiture normale.
La lettre devant le numéro de la route indique le genre de véhicule qui peut l'emprunter sans problèmes (B et C pour une 2x2 si mes souvenirs sont bons)
Il vaut mieux rouler à moins de 80 et dégonfler un peu les pneus.
Sinon, la moyenne est toujours très bonne car il n'y a pas de villes ou de villages, ni de circulation. Vous pouvez donc compter facilement sur un 65/70km de moyenne. J'ai ainsi parcouru la distance de Sesriem à Fish river canyon en une petite journée (pas de goudron) sans aucun souci🙂
Un conseil : prendre de l'essence dès que vous voyez une station car comme les villages et les véhicules, les pompes à essence ne pullulent pas😉
Merci pour cette réponse qui vient confirmer ce que je commençais à penser ...
ça roule bien mais ne compter sur des grosses moyennes ...
Merci aussi pour l'info sur le trajet sesriem - fish river canyon en une journée, c'était également l'un des gros trajets que j'envisageais sans savoir si c'était réaliste ...
La plupart des routes namibiennes sont très roulantes en voiture normale.
La lettre devant le numéro de la route indique le genre de véhicule qui peut l'emprunter sans problèmes (B et C pour une 2x2 si mes souvenirs sont bons)
Il vaut mieux rouler à moins de 80 et dégonfler un peu les pneus.
Sinon, la moyenne est toujours très bonne car il n'y a pas de villes ou de villages, ni de circulation. Vous pouvez donc compter facilement sur un 65/70km de moyenne. J'ai ainsi parcouru la distance de Sesriem à Fish river canyon en une petite journée (pas de goudron) sans aucun souci🙂
Un conseil : prendre de l'essence dès que vous voyez une station car comme les villages et les véhicules, les pompes à essence ne pullulent pas😉
Surtout pas garder une pression normale comme sur nos véhicules !! goudron ou gravel road..
un pneu dégonflé ( même légèrement) s'echauffe plus et ammène plus facilement à la crevaison ou a l'éclatement.
Par ailleurs le véhicule de loc du touriste/voyageur est souvent un peu plus chargé..
Effectivement ne pas compter dépasser les 80 km/H sur les gravels avec une berline. Attention au amas de petits graviers ou de sable qui peuvent "déporter" le véhicule brusquement et être attentif aux "nid de poule" qui parfois sont très prononcés. Etre très prudent lorsque la route est en gravels et sinueuse ou dans les courbes : risque de dérapage.
Les gravels ne sont pas des routes de graviers comme on l'entend ici mais plutot un mélange de graviers, de cailloux et de sable plus ou moins damés
Il ne faut pas dégonfler les pneus sur les gravels !! au contraire (risque de crevaison accentué). Dégonflage seulement sur du sable mou (et il vaut mieux les éviter en berline..)
Merci pour le compliment ! Si le site peut servir aux voyageurs, c'est parfait, c'est fait pour !
On roule assez facilement en 2x2 sur les routes de la Namibie, sauf bien sur dans les fins fonds du kaokoland mais de toute facon je pense que vous ne l'avez pas inclus dans vos 17 jours.
Pour les routes secondaires, il vaut mieux se baser sur une moyenne de 50-80 km/h. En sachant qu'elles sont souvent entretenus, ca roule assez bien. Il faut bien rester vigilant, surtout sur les pistes de sable ou ca peut glisser legerement. Vous inquietez pas, vous allez vous adapté selon vos sensations de conduite.
Il n'est pas forcement obligatoire de supprimer les longues etapes sur les routes gravillonnés, ca passe assez vite car on croise de beaux paysages. (maximum 300-350 km avec des pauses apres ca risque de vous fatiguer)
pour infos, notre record de la plus longue étape/journée sur les deux mois : 800 km au Botswana ! moitié piste-moitié goudron (desert du Kalahari)
Si vous postez votre itineraire, on pourra vous donner une moyenne du temps de conduite sur les troncons que l'on a emprunté. Les autres forumistes vous aideront aussi sur le reste.
Bonne préparation !
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Merci pour tous ces commentaires, ça aide vraiment ...
Arroukatchee, voici le premier itinéraire que je m'étais concocté ...
Les chiffres correspondent au total de km, et entre parenthèses, le nbre de km de pistes.
Toutes les remarques sur l'itinéraire sont les bienvenues ... Je me pose pas mal de questions sur certaines étapes, sur certains crochets à faire sans vouloir trop en rajouter non plus et garder du temps pour profiter des différents endroits ...
1 - Aéroport – Waterberg, 278 (21)
2 - Waterberg – Etosha NP (Okaukuejo camp), 263 (21)
3 - Etosha NP – Etosha NP (Halali camp), 50 (50)
4 - Etosha NP – Twyfelfontain, 362 (153)
5 - Twyfelfontain – Spitzkoppe, 300 (270)
6 - Spitzkoppe – Spitzkoppe, 0
7 - Spitzkoppe – Swakopmund, 140 (40)
8 - Swakopmund – Naukluft, 300 (270)
9 - Naukluft – Nauklunft, 0
10 - Naukluft – Sesriem, 120 (120)
11 - Sesriem – Sesriem, 130 (130)
12 - Sesriem – Quikvertree forest, 510 (187)
13 - Quikvertree forest – Fish river canyon, 150 (95)
14 - Fish river canyon – Fish river canyon, 85 (85)
15 - Fish river canyon – Bukkaros, 380 (110)
16 - Bukkaros – Hardap Dam, 190 (50)
17 - Hardap Dam – Aéroport, 280 (10)
A noter qu'à la lecture de vos réponses, je vais changer les étapes 12 et 13 et descendre au Fish River Canyon en passant du côté de Betta et pas loin des Tirasberg et suivre toute la piste C27 ... ça a l'air qd même plus sympa que de rejoindre la route B !!!
Plusieurs questions qui m'empêchent de boucler l'itinéraire ...
- Twyfelfontain : 1 jour ou 2 ?
- Fish river canyon : des randos sur 1 journée sont-elles possibles ? Si pas possible de faire des randos, 2,5 jours là-bas, ça fait trop non ?
- Luderitz : le crochet vaut le coup ?
- Brandberg mountains : inrattable, ou aller au Spitzkoppe suffira ?
Merci pour tous ces commentaires, ça aide vraiment ...
Arroukatchee, voici le premier itinéraire que je m'étais concocté ...
Les chiffres correspondent au total de km, et entre parenthèses, le nbre de km de pistes.
Toutes les remarques sur l'itinéraire sont les bienvenues ... Je me pose pas mal de questions sur certaines étapes, sur certains crochets à faire sans vouloir trop en rajouter non plus et garder du temps pour profiter des différents endroits ...
1 - Aéroport – Waterberg, 278 (21)
17 - Hardap Dam – Aéroport, 280 (10)
- Luderitz : le crochet vaut le coup ?
- Brandberg mountains : inrattable, ou aller au Spitzkoppe suffira ?
Encore une fois, merci pour tout commentaire.
Florian
1 - Aéroport – Waterberg, 278 (21)
Ton avion arrive à quelle heure ?
En Avril c'est le début d'automne (nuit vers 20h00 local) - + petite saison pluie ?
17 - Hardap Dam – Aéroport, 280 (10)
Ton avion part à quelle heure ? H- 2 pour retour loc + transfert et H-2 pour l'aeroport ?
- De mémoire, les campsites du Spitzkoppe les plus éloignés de l'entrée (en contournant la montagne par la gauche) ne sont pas accessibles en berline car le chemin est parfois trop "cabossés"..mais cela a peut être été amélioré... C'est là que tu as les meilleurs spots avec coucher de solei.
- A Sesriem, pour aller jusqu'au Sossusvlei et notamment à Dead Vlei, il te faudra prendre (et payer) une navette 4x4 pour les 5 ou 6 derniers kilomètres absolument impraticables en berline.
Juste pour chipoter : Je ne vois pas trop l'intéret de passer 2 nuits au Fish River Canyon car tu fais les 3 ou 4 points de vue accessibles en berline en une demi journée largement (ils sont regroupés sur un kilomètre, c'est donc faisable l'après midi de ton arrivée. Pour aller plus loin, tu ne passeras pas en berline. Quand aux randos, si cela n'a pas changé, il est interdit de descendre dans le canyon en libre. Il faut te renseigner si tu veux absolument randonner dedans.
Tu pourrais donc consacrer cette journée (si tu ne randonnes pas) ailleurs, peut être à Etosha si tu es friand d'animaux sauvages.
Himba,
J’arrive à 7h40 et je redécolle à 20 heures pour le retour.
Bien qu’il me faudra consacrer du temps à la prise / dépôt de voiture et les formalités d’arrivée et de départ, J’ai qd même assez de temps de disponible durant ces journées pour faire les trajets indiqués … en plus, ce sont des routes faciles avec finalement pas trop de km …
Je suis assez serein par rapport à ces 2 journées …
Ericarole,
Ton message me fait encore plus douter de l’intérêt d’aller au Fish River Canyon. D’un côté, ça a l’air magnifique et il serait con de pas le voir … D’un autre côté, ça fait descendre très au sud et faire bcp de bornes juste pour un site et, comme tu le dis, 3 ou 4 points de vue.
Aller au Fish River Canyon me motivait carrément s’il était possible de randonner sur une journée. Hors, tu confirmes ce que j’ai lu dans le Lonely Planet, comme quoi il est impossible de faire des randos sur la journée …
Du coup, je sais vraiment pas … Je crois que je devrais aller à Luderitz et après aller au Fish River Canyon qu’un jour … Et peut-être rajouter un jour dans le nord (Etosha ou Twyfelfontain) …
Loin de moi l'idée de te dissuader : C'est un lieux magnifique.
Je pense que les randos sont faisables avec un guide, le tout c'est de savoir où se renseigner. Essaye avec NWR.
Luderitz a fait beaucoup de déçus...mais je n'y suis pas allé
Pas de soucis Ericarole, tu ne me dissuades en rien, tu me donnes ton avis, et tous vos avis sont très intéressants ...
Ils m'ont d'ailleurs permis de boucler mon itinéraire hier soir ...
Au final, je ne passerai qu'un jour au Fish River Canyon, je n'irai pas à Luderitz, je prendrai la route C27 pou faire Sesriem-Fish River Canyon, et enfin, je passerai 3 jours à Etosha en changeant de camp à chaque nuit ...
Merci à tous pour vos commentaires.
Maintenant, je passe aux réservations !
Himba,
J’arrive à 7h40 et je redécolle à 20 heures pour le retour.
Bien qu’il me faudra consacrer du temps à la prise / dépôt de voiture et les formalités d’arrivée et de départ, J’ai qd même assez de temps de disponible durant ces journées pour faire les trajets indiqués … en plus, ce sont des routes faciles avec finalement pas trop de km …
Je suis assez serein par rapport à ces 2 journées …
...Du coup, je sais vraiment pas … Je crois que je devrais aller à Luderitz et après aller au Fish River Canyon qu’un jour … Et peut-être rajouter un jour dans le nord (Etosha ou Twyfelfontain) …
Tant mieux 😉
je pense moi que la première journée est conditionnante du reste du voyage... Aeroport/ Waterberg dans la 1ère journée en avril ... tu ne sera pas détendu .....😇
et la dernière souvent la plus stressante..
Luderitz est une petite bourgade de bord de mer - jolie mais sans plus -c'est surtout un gros centre diamantifère.
C'est surtout très venteux et frais 😉
Les amis voyageurs ont deja apporté pas mal d'infos, je suis d'accord avec eux sauf pour le Fish river canyon.
Il n'y a pas que Hobas au Fish river canyon, en effet les randos doivent etre en groupe, 80 km en 4-6 jours, il faut absolument avertir a l'entrée du fish river canyon (partie Hobas) que vous faites le trek, car ils peuvent si vous n'etes pas a Ai Ais apres 5-6 jours , lancer les recherches ; )
Si vous souhaitez faire une journée de rando, il faut aller du coté de Ai Ais ou le camping se situe dans le bas du canyon et vous pouvez donc parcourir le nombre de kilometres que vous souhaitez (dans le bas du canyon)
Photos Ai Ais (je recommande cette étape, c'est trés beau, vous ne serez pas decu)
Je suis d'accord avec les autres, la partie Hobas pour les points de vue prend 1-2h max.
Jour 4 et 5, Twyfelfontain une seule journée suffit.
Si vous gardez l'etape Quivertree forest, sachez que le Brukkaros se situe pas tres loin, vaut mieux le faire a la suite.
Il faudrait arriver en fin aprem au Quivertree forest pour le coucher de soleil et la nuit , ensuite partir le lendemain vers le mont Brukkaros pour une rando au sommet. Je placerai cette etape apres le fish river canyon sur la route du retour.
Pour le brandberg, vous pouvez passer a coté, mais il est bien situé pour faire une étape. Je pense que le Spitzkoppe est mieux adapté mais j'ai cru savoir qu'une journée suffisait d'apres les autres forumistes. Dans tous les cas, le Brandberg prend une journée aussi.
Je suis d'accord aussi sur le fait de passer par le Betta restcamp pour rejoindre le fish river canyon, cette route est trés belle.
Pour Luderitz, vous pouvez gagner du temps a ne pas faire le detour comme vous etes passé avant a Swakop: c'est juste la cote. Les lieux sont differents mais parfois il faut faire des choix question timing. vous pourrez toujours vous adapter sur place.
Quelques étapes vont etre plus longue que les autres mais ca reste réaliste. Il faudra ne pas se lever trop tard le matin pour en profiter.
Si vous avez d'autres questions, n'hesitez pas !
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Je prends bonne note pour Twyfelfontain : je ne vais y passer qu'un nuit et visiter en arrivant l'après-midi et en partant le lendemain matin.
Du coup, je ferai une halte au Brandberg moutains, façon de couper le trajet en deux jusqu'au Spitzkoppe, et de voir de près le massif.
Pour ce qui est du Fish River Canyon, je vais peut-être aller passer la nuit à Ai-Ais plutôt que Hobas. Je vais y réfléchir, ça fait de la route en plus ...
Voici le dernier itinéraire :
1 - Aéroport – Waterberg, 278 km (dont 21 km de pistes)
2 - Waterberg – Etosha NP (Namutoni camp), 363 (93)
3 - Etosha NP – Etosha NP (Halali camp), 50 (50)
4 - Etosha NP – Etosha NP (Okaukuejo camp), 50 (50)
5 - Etosha NP (Halali camp) – Twyfelfontain, 362 (153)
6 - Twyfelfontain – Brandberg, ?? (70)
7 - Brandberg – Spitzkoppe, ?? (270)
8 - Spitzkoppe – Spitzkoppe, 0 (rando journée)
9 - Spitzkoppe – Swakopmund, 140 (40)
10 - Swakopmund – Naukluft, 300 (270)
11 - Naukluft – Nauklunft, 0 (rando journée)
12 - Naukluft – Sesriem, 120 (120)
13 - Sesriem – Sesriem, 130 (130)
14 - Sesriem – Tirasberge (C27), 240 (240)
15 - Tirasberge – Fish river canyon, 365 (207)
16 - Fish river canyon – Bukkaros, 380 (110)
17 - Bukkaros – Aéroport, 350 (40)
Ça me semble pas mal ! 😎
Mais voyez vous un endroit où je passe trop vite ?
Je ne sais pas où tu souhaites t'arrêter dans le Tirasberge. Je m'étais posé là : http://www.ranch-koiimasis.com/die_ranch_en.html
supers souvenirs. Mais renseignes toi auprès d'eux si tu peux faire la piste entre la D707 et leur ranch avec une berline. De mémoire, c'était sableux. Le paysage est magnifique lorsque tu prend cette piste.
Effectivement, je n'ai pas repéré pour le moment d'endroits où dormir sur cette route ...
Et effectivement, les photos du Ranch et des environs sont magnifiques ...
Au pire, je m'étais dit qu'il serait possible de passer une nuit dans la voiture, paumé dans la pampa ... 😕
ça se fait, non ?
Oui ca se fait, on l'a fait plusieurs fois durant les 2 mois, faut juste trouver le bon coin sur le bord de la route ou de la piste.
On trouve beaucoup de petites aires de repos en Namibie.
Ca permet de profiter des choses simples comme par exemple le coucher du soleil sous un arbre dans les sud de la Namibie (sur la B4)
En plus, ca permet d'economiser une nuit de camping : )
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Au pire, je m'étais dit qu'il serait possible de passer une nuit dans la voiture, paumé dans la pampa ... 😕
ça se fait, non ?
...C'est quand même pas trop conseillé. De plus la plupart des terres au bord des routes sont cloturées.
Y a assez de camps privés pour y trouver son bonheur...A ne faire qu'en cas d'urgence
Oui a faire en cas d'urgence et surtout se placer pas trop proche de la route.
Comme il y a les clotures, parfois il y a des renfoncements qui ressemble a des zones d'arret parking comme en France.
C'est utile lorsque le soleil tombe et que l'on a pas de camping proche.
Il est preferable de stopper que de rouler la nuit, je le dit juste par experience, beaucoup d'animaux traversent les routes.
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Bonjour,
Peut etre que les contraintes sont differentes pour une 2x2, mais pour un 4x4, le degonflage est conseille, aussi bien par les loueurs, que par les nombreux locaux a qui j'ai pu parler. A mon avis, c'est certainement la meme chose pour les 2x2, la bande de roulement doit pouvoir se deformer au passage sur les cailloux. D'ailleurs, en deux mois, la seule fois ou j'ai creve, je n'avais pas degonfle les pneus - ca se ressent d'ailleurs tres bien en confort de conduite -
Concernant la vitesse, 80 km/h avec un 2x2, a moins d'etre un namibien, ou d'etre sur une route bitumee, c'est de la folie pure. Une crevaison a cette vitesse, et le retournement est pour ainsi dire certain.
Les routes Namibiennes sont en bonne etat, a 95% sur les pistes frequentees. C'est la tout le probleme. La vigilance diminue, et au detour d'une tournant, ou sur une belle ligne droite, c'est la catastrophe.
Si vous avez les moyens pour un 4x4, surtout si vous partez seul, ca vaut vraiment la peine. Je ne parle meme pas de l'autonomie, de la possibilite de faire des provisions pour 15 jours, de la tente de toit (4 scorpions a Klein Aus, 2 a Sesriem !!!).
Merci pour ce témoignage ...
Je tacherai d'être prudent sur la route et de changer mon style de conduite par rapport à la France 😊
Pour ce qui est du type de véhicule, c'est justement parce que je pars seul qu'un 4x4 m'est impossible au niveau financier ... Du coup, une petite voiture et on verra bien ... j'ai fait ça en Afrique du Sud sur 3 semaines, ça m'allait bien ...
Concernant les scorpions, cela fait plusieurs fois que je lis des témoignages / récits de voyage et que les gens parlent de scorpions ... voir des scorpions de 20 cm 😕
C'est clair qu'avec 17 nuits en camping, je peux m'attendre à quelques surprises ...
Je débute une préparation psychologique et réfléchit à des techniques de vérification du matos ... et à une trousse de secours de qualité ...
Inch'Allah !!!
Papa sous ma chaise, maman pres du barbecue, toto pres du sac poubelle. Le premier, qui m'a pique deux fois a la main alors qu'il remontait peinard le long de ma jambe, a fini sous ma pompe droite, et n'est pas sur la photo. Apres je n'ai utilise que la tente de toit.
C'est vrai que le 4x4 est cher, mais on peut rouler a 70/80 en securite, pourvu que l'on aie une bonne discipline de conduite. J'ai mis 8 heures pour faire Sesriem-Klein Aus, en faisant plein de pauses pour les photos. J'etais liquide a la fin.
Enfin, un 4x4 (hilux), c'est 1800 km sur un plein + route plate, de l'eau fraiche en tout temps, des fruits, qui ne pourrissent pas, des produits laitiers, une glaciere avec des bieres fraiches. Ca compte qd on est creve par la route. Ca permet de voir pas mal de coins recules, sans se soucier des stations services, du ravitaillement etc...
Ca peut valoir le coup d'emmener des copains...
Note: Pour avoir passe plusieurs mois en Afrique du Sud, les routes n'ont rien a voir avec la Namibie (qui encore une fois, a de bonnes routes si on compare avec l'afrique centrale)
Aucune crevaison en 13500 km en deux mois en Afrique australe avec une 2x2 gonflé a la normale.
On a juste subit une crevaison lente sur un pneu qu'on a réparé avec une bombe anticrevaison qu'on a acheté sur place(c'etait arrivé au 4 eme jour sur les 60)
Chacun a son experience, chacun a sa chance ou sa malchance !
Question scorpion: un seul croisé en deux mois en camping (tente au sol), attention ce sont souvent les plus petits les plus dangereux (petite pince = gros venin et vice versa)
Restez vigilant dans tous les cas mais profitez en quand meme !
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Bonjour Michelle,
arf nan, pas de carnet, je n'ai aucun talent pour raconter un voyage. Ca sent la depeche AFP a plein nez des que je couche trois lignes, et apres, ca m'enerve... :). La famille m'a fait un peu la tronche qd je leur ai dit "La Namibie, c'etait bien" pour tout resume de voyage, mais bon. Heureusement il y avait qd meme les photos.
Je repars pour une experience plus serieuse vers Hartmann possiblement en 2011 au plus tard en 2012, je tacherais d'embarquer au moins qq avec une bonne plume.
Merci au fait pour les info sur le Gamsberg. Hakos est un peu rustique - camp site-, la vue est epuree, c'est le moins que l'on puisse dire. Mon site prefere dans ce coin a ete Corona. Un endroit vraiment splendide, le guest house bcp de cachet, et pas cher en plus. Meme si arrivant trop tard, je n'ai pu y passer que la matinee. Pour les courageux, il y a une ferme 15 km avant Hakos, qui possede le seul acces au plateau du Gamsberg (j'ai oublie le nom, au besoin demander a Hakos). Si fin de saison des pluies, 4x4 leger obligatoire pour y acceder, ou bien standard Hilux avec deux personnes (un qui conduit, l'autre pour quider dans les passages difficiles). En tous les cas, se renseigner sur l'etat de la piste... J'ai du faire demi tour a 800 metres de l'arrivee... rageant.
Caml
Bonjour ,
Je reviens de plus de deux mois en Namibie . Il n'est peut être pas possible de tout voir en 2 semaines , mais quelques remarques :
Les pistes sont très bonnes en général (pour info les routes sont limitees à 120 km/h , les pistes en B ou C à 100 km/h) et toutes praticables en 4x2 , sauf la C43 sur 100 km au nord de Sesfontein (définitivement une erreur de numérotation!)
- Dans l'Etosha NP , la zone la plus interessante est autour de Okaukuejo . Halali est dans une zone très boisée où on ne voit pas grand chose . Première nuit à Namutori , puis traversée tranquille vers Okaukuejo par la piste directe avec quelques détours (éviter les rhino et élan loops , sauf miracle on ne voit rien) , puis 2 nuits là , avec la moitié de la nuit à regarder la vie autour de la mare , et la journée à explorer les nombreux points d'eau autour , vous ne le regretterez pas !
- Le Waterberg est un beau plateau avec de belles falaises , mais en tant que parc animalier , assez décevant (végétation épaisse)
- Par contre le nord ouest (Opuwo - Epupa falls) est surement la région la plus interessante de Namibie : Paysages somptueux et tribus Himbas et Herreros pour le moins dépaysantes . Les Epupa falls sont un cul de sac , sauf pour qui dispose d'un très bon 4x4 , mais c'est un lieu magique qui vaut bien un aller retour
- Sesriem peut se faire facilement comme Twyfelfontein , dans la demi-journée , de préférence le matin au lever du soleil
NB : le jour , c'est 6h - 18h , pas 20h
Bon voyage
Jean-Marc
Un brin de folie est comme l'argent: ça ne fait pas le bonheur, mais ça aide!
Salut !
"La famille m'a fait un peu la tronche qd je leur ai dit "La Namibie, c'etait bien" pour tout resume de voyage, mais bon."
T'exagère un peu j'espère ...🙂
Que veux-tu dire par "Hakos, la vue est épuree" ?
Nous l'avons choisi en partie pour le côté" observation du ciel ", je suppose que c'est le "désert" tout autour de Hakos ? Y as-tu logé ? Comment est l'accueil ?
Je rectifie la bourde de mon dernier message où la veille de ton départ je te disais"Chançarde !" 😊🙂 🙂
Tout à fait Himba, mon voyage est pour Avril, et il m'avait bien semblé noter fin de journée vers 20 heures.
Merci jmcombret pour les différentes suggestions. J'ai repris le guide ce matin pour voir s'il ne serait pas intéressant de pousuivre au nord après Etosha, et cela me semble compliqué comme certaines routes n'ont pas l'air en très bon état (tel que tu le dis) ... de plus, les Epupa Falls sont inatteignables avec la 2x2 qui m'attend ...
Billets d'avion OK, résa voiture OK, j'ai préparé les résa auprès du NWR et NACOBAT (prochaine étape) ...
ça prend forme tout ça ...😎
Au bout d'un moment, il va qd même falloir que je referme tous ces guides et laisse tout ça de côté ... je pars dans huit mois et je m'y vois déjà !!!! 😐
Bonjour
Deux heures de difference de coucher du soleil entre été et hiver sous les tropiques , cela ne correspond pas à mon expérience personnelle . Mais il me semble en effet avoir entendu dire qu'ils avaient , pour faire comme l'Afrique du Sud , une heure d'été et une heure d'hiver .
Les Epupa falls sont facilement accessible en 4x2 en passant par les C35 , C41 . La C43 au nord d'Opuwo est très bonne . Si les Epupa Falls sont un cul de sac en 4x2 , c'est que la piste suivant la Kunene vers Ruacana Falls est difficilement praticable , même en 4x4 .
A vous de voir
Jean-Marc
Un brin de folie est comme l'argent: ça ne fait pas le bonheur, mais ça aide!
Bonjour !
J'ai pris un camp site a Hakos, et j'y suis reste 30 minutes. Cela ne m'a pas plu. Les emplacements etaient un peu trop petits pour le 4x4 et la tente - impossible d'avoir qq chose a peu pres horizontal -, a une distance suffisante du barbecue, et puis l'arrivee d'eau ne fonctionnait pas. Ce jour la, j'avais vraiment besoin d'eau potable.
Ce que j'entends par "epure" est une forme polie pour ennuyeux. Le relief, depuis Hakos, est une succession de massifs erodes, de formes relativement homogenes, avec une vegetation/arbustes tout secs, rase, genre arretes de poisson. Le tout ne capte pas le regard, et donne une sorte d'absence de perspective (vu que tout est semblable). De plus, avec l'altitude, le soleil est tres brillant, et ecrase tout. Bon c'est mon opinion apres tout. Pour l'observation du ciel, je pense que c'est certainement un bon endroit.
L'accueil est sympa, le B&B est un peu vieillot.
Pour ma part, lorsque je repasserais dans le coin, j'irais soit a la ferme depuis laquelle se fait l'acces au plateau du Gamsberg, ou bien au Corona Guest farm (vraiment tres bel endroit)
Bonne journee
Alex
Les routes namibiennes ont l'air assez bonnes, mais nous partons debut octobre, donc debut saison des pluies. Est ce que les pluies et donc les pistes…
Voyager en 4x4 › Afrique du Sud / Namibie · 35 replies
J ai l intention de faire un road trip en afrique du sud et namibie arrivee et depart de johannesbourg j ai l intention de louer une voiture economique est ce…
Voyager en camping-car › Botswana / Namibie / Afrique du Sud · 1 reply
J’ai besoin de quelques conseils.J’ai un petit camping-car qui n’est pas 4x4 mais assez haut sur roues.J’ai choisi un itinéraire mais j’y serai fin octobre et…
Pourrait on me dire si Windhoek / outjo / ombika est faisable en une journée? Quel est l'état de cette route? De même quel temps faut il compter Ombika / outjo…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 19 replies
Je prepare mon voyage en Mars en Namibie, et j'aurais besoin de conseils. C'est certainement la question récurrente du Forum: 4x4 ou citadine? A lire les…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?