Après mon voyage en Asie entre Bangkok et Lhassa, je ferais bien un petit tour par nos belles montagnes. Le but serait de partir de chez moi à Genève pour arriver à la mer Méditérrannée.
J'aime: rouler le plus possible en altitude!
Je déteste: les routes fréquentées...
Du coup, si vous pouviez m'aider pour trouver un itinéraire calme passant par les montagnes, ce serait sympa!
En tout cas, je te conseille vivement l'Assietta entre Susa et Sestriere ainsi que l'Agnel, le Sampeyre et la Fauniera. Pour ces deux derniers cols, il est très rare de rencontrer des véhicules motorisés.
Voilà, je reste à ta disposition pour d'autres renseignements.
Richard
Effleurer et non s'affairer. Faisons le serment d'effleurer et non point d'empoigner - et alors les êtres nous livreront ce qu'ils sont, ce qu'ils consentent à être, progressant vers nous à l'allure qui est la leur, parfois sur un mode vivace, parfois sur un mode lent.
La première fois que j'ai fait ce voyage, j'avais juste dix huit ans et j'avais préparé mon voyage sur le sol de ma chambre en étalant mes cartes Michelin par dessus mes révisions du Bac...
Depuis Genève, j'avais longé votre riviera lémanique par le nord, pour me faire les jambes jusqu'à Martigny, de là tourné à droite direstion le grand St Bernard, puis encore à droite direction Champex (raide, raide !!!) descendu sur Bourg St Pierre, revenu à Martigny, poussé jusqu'à Saxon au bout d'une fameuse ligne droite et de là encore à droite direstion le col du lein et encore une fameuse grimpette... De là le col des planches n'est qu'une petite formalité et il y a plein de coins pour camper sauvage. Le grand st bernard et ses tunnels, son hospice au sommet, la longue descente jusqu'à Aoste. Remontant la Dora Baltea vers Courmayeur, le col St Carlo est incontournable, puis le petit st bernard et encore une longue descente vers seez en tarentaise. L'Iseran est très long et ouvre les portes de la hautes montagne. Plongeon sur la haute maurienne et remontée vers le mont ceniset l'Italie voisine. Attention dans la descente, prendre la petite route à gauche en directioon de montecenision et novalesa (dans ce sens c'est très facile, le contraire l'est beaucoup moins mais je pense que tu sauras apprécier l'endroit à sa juste valeur). Une fois rendu à Suse, la route de crête Suse-Sestrières (qui t'a déjà été indiquée par d'autres connaisseurs) est à ne rater sous aucun prétexte, neige exceptée. Le Montgenêvre doit être plus calme désormais et une petite rando jusqu'à Névache s'impose sur l'autre versant. Pouquoi ne pas te poser dans un des campings de la vallée pour aller, via le col de l'échelle, faire le col sommeiller qui te fera tutoyer les nuages du haut de ses 3000m.
De Briançon, prendre la route de l'Izoard, puis du col Agnel goudronné depuis 1989 et plonger sur la vallée varaita. Monter le Sampeyre et au sommet prendre soit tout droit vers la vallée maira, soit prendre à gauche par la route de crête (attention, il te faudra peut-être pousser un peu, le goudron n'est pas encore arrivé là-haut - en tout cas lors de mon dernier passage en 1992 il n'y en avait pas) en prenant tout droit au Sampeyre, tourner à droite une fois arrivé dans la vallée jusqu'à Ponte Marmora et passer en vallée Stura par le col del Mulo. Au sommet je sais, mais je ne l'ai pas faite, qu'une route stratégique par vers l'ouest vers la frontière avec la France. D'après les dires, elle serait carossable sur la majeure partie.
Rejoindre Borgo san Dalmazzo puis partir direction Limone piemonte et le col de tende (pas goudronné mais info datant de 1992). Au sommet, prendre à gauche après les casematespar une route plus que tranquille qui te conduira via les cols de la boaire, des seigneurs, de la vielles selle, de collardente presque jusqu'à Vintimille d'où tu n'auras qu'à tourner à droite pour rallier Nice.
Te souhaitant bonne réception de ma recette alpine et un excellent voyage. Tiens moi au courant si tu veux quelques suggestions pour un itinéraire Nice-Genève, il y a quelques passages à ne pas rater.
Cyclocampinguement et amicalement.
Salut,
C'est un bel itinéraire certes, mais toi qui aimes les routes peu circulées, Il y a des portions qui le sont tout de même!!!
De Bourg-St Maurice à St Michel de Maurienne c'est pas la petite route tranquille, la montée vers Val d'Isère c'est pas que du bonheur...
Les grosses routes en fond de vallée on préfère les descendre.
Donc nous de Bourg St Maurice, avons descendu la vallée de l'Isère par la petite piste cyclable jusqu'à Aime puis Moutier(tu peux passer par Notre Dame du Pré) De là, il y a des petites routes qui mènent au pied du col de la Madeleine
Fais l'ascension puis, La Chambre - Col du Glandon - Col de La Croix de Fer - Col du Mollard - Albiez le Jeune - Montricher Albanne - Albanette - (c'est rock and roll mais tranquille) - Valloire etc etc...
Penses au cache-nez et pelle à neige si tu pars en cette saison😏
Bonne route..
Ouaip! Je me demande aussi si c'est une bonne idée de partir maintenant, car on est à la periode où certains cols peuvent être fermé... Une chute de neige et je suis bloqué comme un c... dans une vallée.
Bref, faut que je réfléchisse vite. Mais les infos seront dans ma petite tête pour l'année prochaine si jamais.
la fermeture hivernale des cols est évidemment un problème. J'avais rencontré de la naige au col de la Bonette vers le 15 septembre il y a 2 ans et cette année j'ai rencontré de la neige dans les Pyrénées vers la fin septembre à 1250 m.
Le printemps il faut te méfier car la neige prend du temps à fondre, certains cols s'ouvrent tard dans la saison. Une année, alors que les cols alpins étaient encore fermés, j'ai fait Genève Nice en passant par Grenoble et le Vercors, ensuite le Mont Ventoux, la Provence, le Verdon et tu finis dans les alpes, à l'arrière de Nice.
Toutefois je suis un fan de la route des grandes Alpes qui te laisse en fait quelques possibilités de variation.
Bonne route.
Christian
Salut,
C'est un bel itinéraire certes, mais toi qui aimes les routes peu circulées, Il y a des portions qui le sont tout de même!!!
De Bourg-St Maurice à St Michel de Maurienne c'est pas la petite route tranquille, la montée vers Val d'Isère c'est pas que du bonheur...
Les grosses routes en fond de vallée on préfère les descendre.
Donc nous de Bourg St Maurice, avons descendu la vallée de l'Isère par la petite piste cyclable jusqu'à Aime puis Moutier(tu peux passer par Notre Dame du Pré) De là, il y a des petites routes qui mènent au pied du col de la Madeleine
Fais l'ascension puis, La Chambre - Col du Glandon - Col de La Croix de Fer - Col du Mollard - Albiez le Jeune - Montricher Albanne - Albanette - (c'est rock and roll mais tranquille) - Valloire etc etc...
c'est à peut près l'itinéraire que nous avions choisi, en faisant quelques incartades aux trajets officiels de la route des grandes Alpes. En dehors des motos, sur certains cols nous n'avons rencontré que 2 ou 3 voitures durant l'ascension.
La meilleure période semble être au mois de juin. L'été, c'est trop rempli de voitures. Et avant, certains cols risquent d'être encore fermés. Ce qui a failli nous arriver l'an dernier. Les derniers cols avaient ouvert la semaine précédant notre départ.
Voir mon récit sur [ lien "http://www.aventures-a-velo.carnetsderoutes.info/route-grandes-alpes/"]http://www.aventures-a-velo.carnetsderoutes.info/route-grandes-alpes/
Leonick
camera embarquée sur l'ironman de Lanzarote, récits de voyages en vélo,
Agenda des épreuves d'endurance
il est vrai qu'en été cette route est souvent tres fréquentée
ensuite si on veut eviter ces routes, forcément on emprunte des routes + difficiles et non goudronnées
je vais étudier vos récits et idées et peut etre les intégrer
le glaude
Claudio de la Faverges.
Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste.
plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger
en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
Si tu n'es pas avare d'un ou deux petits crochets pentus supplémentaires, tu peux envisager le passage (en été) par Joux Plane entre Morzine et Samoens (Haute Savoie), la route est très raide mais peu fréquentée.
Plus au sud, tu as le bel enchainement (sauf pour les mollets), Col des Saisies, Cormet de Roselend, Iseran à partir de Flumet, ou sinon tu peux enchainer plein sud sur la Madeleine suivie du Glandon.
Dans les hautes Alpes, le passage par l'Izoard est fortement recommander surtout pour les paysages fabuleux de la Casse déserte. Ensuite à Guillestre, tu as le choix entre l'Agnel, Vars ou le Parpaillon (apparemment ouvert aux cyclos et pas aux voitures). Evite le col de Larche, bcp de camions à mon souvenir.
A partir de la vallée de l'Ubaye, tu n'auras que l'embarras du choix entre 3 cols magiques que sont la Bonnette, la Cayolle et Allos. A toi de voir si tu préfères terminer par la vallée de la Tinée ou les Gorges du Verdon.
Potasse bien, et tiens nous au courant !
@ pluche
Wirly
Vue, Ouïe, Toucher, Odorat, Goût, Amour et Pardon sont les 7 merveilles du monde.
Encore merci à tout le monde pour les précieux conseils.
J'ai tenté, mais pas réussi. Le froid a eu raison de ma volonté après 2 jours... Je crois que j'étais très fatigué, ce qui n'est pas franchement idéal pour commencer un périple comme ça au début de l'hiver. (Aller jeter un coup d'oeil sur mon blog pour vous rendre compte du fiasco cyclovince.over-blog-org)
Mais je me vengerai, c'est promi. Je me réjouis du printemps prochain, pendant lequel je réessaierai.
Voyager à vélo › France › Provence-Côte d'Azur · 17 replies
J'avais déjà posté il y a quelques jours ("Itinérant à travers les Alpes"). J'ai réfléchis depuis, cherché des solutions, préparé un itinéraire. Je compte donc…
Voyager à vélo › France › Provence-Côte d'Azur / Suisse · 5 replies
Je pense faire le trajet Genève-Arles à vélo, mais je n'ai pas encore décidé quel engin utiliser. Je ne sais si l'achat d'un VTT ou un VTC ou un trekking est…
Voyager à vélo › Belgique / Suisse / France › Provence-Côte d'Azur · 10 replies
Je me prends 3 semaines en juin pour rallier Genève depuis Bruxelles, et puis Genève-Marseille. Des idées d'itinéraires? (sachant que j'aimerais éviter trop de…
Voyager à vélo › France › Provence-Côte d'Azur / Suisse · 9 replies
Voilà, nous voulons partir de Genève et nous rendre à Sisteron à vélo, j'ai déjà l'itinéraire "la route du Rhône" est ce le meilleur ou il y en a d'autres..?…
Voyager à vélo › France › Rhône-Alpes / Provence-Côte d'Azur / Suisse · 15 replies
En mai juin 2020 nous envisageons de partir de chez nous en Provence pour rejoindre la Suisse en passant la via rhona.Bien sur nous attendrons une periode sans…
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.