J’ai réalisé ce voyage avec mon père (65 ans) sans porteur ni guide. Niveau équipement, j’avais notamment :
- Un appareil photo numérique Sony RX100 et ses 2 cartes mémoire (64 GB et 32 GB);
- Un GPS GARMIN 550 avec une carte des sentiers du Solukumbu trouvée là : http://www.nepal-trilogy.de/index.php/de/nepal-garmin-karten-everest-annapurna-langtang-gps-etrex.html ;
- Un chargeur solaire Brunton restore : a permis de recharger les 2 accus de mon GPS chaque jour
- 6 accus de rechanges pour l’appareil photo et 4 pour la frontale
- Un sac de couchage Tundra (The North Face)
- Une douille voleuse à baïonnette achetée à Namche Bazaar et qui permet de charger les appareils électroniques au niveau de l’ampoule électrique puisqu’il n’existe pas de prise de courant dans les chambres.
Le problème de l’acclimatation nous a obligé à de courtes étapes les premiers jours car, pour réduire les risque de MAM, il ne faut pas que le dénivelé entre l’endroit où l’on se réveille le matin et celui où l’on se couche le soir soit supérieur à 400 m. Pour ceux qui habitent Paris, il est possible de réaliser un test d’hypoxie à l’hôpital Avicenne où le professeur Richalet dirige le service des explorations fonctionnelles.
Jeudi 24 octobre 2013 :
- Départ de Roissy CDG à 22 h (coût : 690 € / pers).
Vendredi 25 octobre 2013 :
- Arrivée à Delhi à 9h35
- Décollage à 13h10 pour une arrivée à Katmandou prévue à 14h55
- Change euros en roupies népalaises juste avant la sortie de l’aéroport
- Direction en taxi pour le bureau Nepal Tourism Board (11018, Bhrikuti Mandap, Kathmandu) pour obtenir le certificat TIM’S (il faut 2 photos d’identité + copie passeport + 1 975 NPR (20 $)) mais fermé dès 14h le vendredi (fermé le samedi). J’ai donc bien fait de prendre une journée de sécurité à Katmandou pour régler ce problème ! A noter qu’aucune agence de voyage contactée par mail n’a accepté de s’occuper de cette formalité dans la mesure où nous réalisons le trek en individuel. Par contre, il semblerait possible d’obtenir ce certificat sur place à Lukla car j’y ai croisé des individuels qui ne s’étaient pas préoccupés de cette formalité à Katmandou et qui cherchaient à prendre contact avec les services de police locaux pour l’obtenir mais je ne sais pas s’ils l’ont obtenu ;
- Direction l’hôtel Khangsar Guest House (coût : 15 $ par pers Thamel tél : +97714260788). Il est possible de confier gratuitement des bagages durant la période de trek. Le propriétaire, très sympathique, est un ancien guide dans la région de l’Everest.
Samedi 26 octobre 2013 :
- Visite du Garden of the dream (200 RN) puis direction le bureau TAAN dans le quartier Magalaon pour le certificat TIM’S ;
- Direction en taxi (800 RN) Budhanilkantha (statue couchée entrée libre mais il est interdit aux non hindous de descendre au pied de la statue)
- Puis à pied (mais il est possible de prendre un taxi jusqu’à l’entrée du parc) vers le monastère tibétain Nagi gompa (entrée du parc : 250 RS) : la promenade est longue et le monastère ne vaut pas forcément le déplacement.
- Vers 15 h, direction la pagode d’Ichangu Narayan en taxi (1 000 RN) : bien mais sans plus. Du coup on ira visiter le site de Swayambhunath (taxi : 200 RN et 200 RN pour le site) qu’on connaît déjà ;
- 7h : retour à Thamel et au Khangsar Guest House.
Dimanche 27 octobre 2013 :
- Départ de l’hôtel à 6h pour l’aéroport (taxi : 400 RN)
- Départ pour Lukla à 7h45 (coût de l’aller retour : 320 $ / pers durée : 30 min) : prendre une place à gauche de l’appareil pour la vue mais les nuages étaient nombreux donc je n’ai pas vu la chaîne himalayenne ;
- Etape Lukla (2 850 m)-Namche Bazaar (3 550 m) : 8h (arrêt possible avant à Jorsale ou Monjo (payer le droit d’entrée du parc : 3 000 RN) : la montée finale pour atteindre le village de Namche Bazaar fût difficile !
- Guesthouse : 300 RN / nuit et autant pour la douche chaude : nous avons pris une lodge située sur les hauteurs du village pour éviter d’avoir à affronter la montée des escaliers en pierre le lendemain, au petit matin...
Lundi 28 octobre 2013 :
- Etape acclimatation Khunde-Khumjung : levée à 6h30 pour Syangboche avec une belle vue sur le Thamserku.
Nous atteignons le village à 8h pour prendre un mint tea. Surprise : il y a une piste d’atterrissage avec un hélicoptère qui s’apprête à décoller avec des touristes à bord qui vont sauter en parachute.
- Arrivée à Kunde avec la brume dès 9h30 puis descente jusqu’à Khumjung pour voir le fameux scalpe du Yéti à la gompa (en fait, après analyse, il s’agirait d’une peau de chèvre).
- Retour à Namche vers 13h en passant par l’hôtel japonais. J’en profite pour acheter une douille voleuse (280 RN) qui me permettra de recharger les piles de mon GPS.
Mardi 29 octobre 2013 :
- Etape Namche (3 550 m)-Tengboche (3 860 m) : 5h. Sentier facile jusqu’à Phunki Thanga c'est-à-dire avant la montée qui mène à Tengboche.
Le Kongde Ri au petit matin :
L'Everest pointe le bout de son sommet :
Nous arrivons vers 11h30, juste bien pour prendre une douche et déjeuner. Nous avons passé la nuit dans la lodge qui est tout de suite à droite après la montée, c'est-à-dire en face du monastère. C’est une lodge immense sur deux étages, extrêmement bruyante. Après avoir passé une nuit là dedans, on prendra soin, par la suite, de ne choisir que des lodges de petite taille ;
- Le monastère est l’un des plus importants de la vallée : il est possible d’assister à une cérémonie mais interdiction de prendre des photos ou de filmer. En faisant le tour du monastère par la gauche, il y a des petits édifices en pierre construits à la mémoire d’alpinistes décédés en montagne.
Mercredi 30 octobre 2013 :
- Etape Tengboche (3 860 m)-Pangboche (3 990 m) : 2h. Arrivée à Pangboche à 9h30 : on pose nos sacs et direction le camp de base de l’Ama Dablan (la plus belle montagne de la vallée !).
Un bélier à la crinière de lion :
Nous arrivons à 13h après pas mal d’hésitations compte tenu de l’altitude élevée (4 580 m) et des maux de tête qui deviennent lancinant. Arrivés la haut, nous découvrons un village de tentes, des gens un peu partout qui vaquent à leurs occupations, un troupeau de yacks impatients de redescendre, un hélicoptère qui atterri et redécolle aussitôt avec trois types à son bord qui s’apprêtent à sauter en parachute. Bref, Disneyland là où on l’attend pas.
- Retour au village à 15h puis diner avec un groupe qui attend depuis maintenant 18 jours de pouvoir faire l’ascension de l’Ama Dablan à cause du vent important en altitude. Ils préfèrent rester au village où les conditions de vie sont apparemment plus agréables pour patienter plutôt que d’attendre au camp de base.
Jeudi 31 octobre 2013 :
- Etape Pangboche (3 990 m)-Dingboche (4 400 m) : 2h45 Arrivée à Dingboche à 10h15.
Pour s’occuper, après une « douche sceau d’eau », direction le chemin de Nangkarthang jusqu’à 4 570 m puis redescente et aspirine…
Vendredi 1er novembre 2013 :
- Etape Dingboche (4 400 m)-Chukhung (4 750 m) : 2h.
On pose les sacs et départ pour le Chukhung Ri (5 560 m) : la montée est interminable et même périlleuse sur la toute fin car le « sentier » est instable ;
Samedi 2 novembre 2013 :
- Etape acclimatation Chukhung (4 750 m)-Camp de base Island Peak et lac Ambulapcha- Chukhung : 6h.
Exercice d'alpinisme au camp de base de l'Island Peak avant l'ascension :
La vue sur le lac depuis le camp de base est incroyable : une impression de bout du monde.
Le Lohtse au couché du soleil :
Dimanche 3 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Chukhung (4 750 m)-Kongma la (5 535 m)-Lobuche (4 930 m) : la montée vers le col comporte quelques passages difficiles compte tenu de la neige mais ces passages sont praticables sans crampons.
Après un pique-nique chorizo près des lacs qui se trouvent au pied du col, nous atteignons le Kongma La vers 13h pour un départ vers 7h. Attention, le sentier n’est pas facile à repérer car il passe entre le plus grand lac et le deuxième des trois lacs. Or, le lac le plus important ne se voit pas lorsqu’on arrive à ce niveau là et il faut donc prendre le temps de bien repérer chaque lac pour ne pas se tromper de sentier.
- Arrivé au col, la vue vaut le coup : il est possible de voir le village de Lobuche en contrebas mais aussi le superbe manteau neigeux qui s’étend entre nous et le fameux village…
Deux jours auparavant, j’ai questionné des guides, porteurs et propriétaires de lodge pour savoir si le col était ouvert ce à quoi on m’a répondu que oui, le col est ouvert depuis quelques jours : cool ! Sauf qu’arrivés au col, il n’y a plus vraiment de sentier mais une simple trace réalisée par un randonneur passé quelques jours auparavant. On commence à l’emprunter : on descend un moment puis on arrive face à un précipice ! On rebrousse chemin en contournant ce problème, on retrouve des traces qu’on suit puis plus rien. Du coup, il a fallu improviser. La neige était suffisamment glacée pour supporter mon poids par moment mais pas toujours ce qui a rendu la progression lente et difficile si bien qu’arrivé au pied de la moraine, la nuit commence à tomber. On débute la traversée de la moraine mais il n’y a pas vraiment de sentier et la neige est bien présente ce qui complique l’exercice. La neige recouvre les pierres et lorsqu’elle cède sous notre poids, il est arrivé qu’on s’enfonce jusqu’au genou. La nuit est désormais tombée et la frontale de peu d’utilité.
Très vite, on est rejoint par deux asiatiques qui randonnent en ultraléger : on commence à les suivre mais on tourne en rond : eh oui, car chaque monticule est recouvert de neige uniquement côté nord, là où le soleil ne la pas fait fondre. Du coup, on essaie de se frayer un chemin en évitant la neige mais cela est loin d’être simple car on ne peut pas anticiper notre parcours en regardant au loin puisqu’il fait nuit ! La fatigue et le froid nous contraignent donc à camper dans la moraine. Nous laissons nos compagnons d’infortune poursuivre seuls puisqu’eux, ils n’ont pas le choix : ils doivent atteindre le village pour passer la nuit car ils n’ont pas l’équipement nécessaire pour dormir à la belle étoile. C’est l’occasion pour nous de tester nos sacs de couchage et le Tundra de The North Face rempli parfaitement son rôle. En réalité, il fait certes plus froid que dans une chambre de lodge mais c’est supportable.
Lundi 4 novembre 2013 :
- Au petit matin, le réveil est frais et nous attendons que le soleil nous atteigne pour nous réchauffer et commencer à émerger
- Il nous aura encore fallu 2h pour sortir de la moraine et atteindre Lobuche ! ;
- Du coup, nous utilisons une des deux journées de sécurité que j’avais pris au cas où pour nous reposer, manger et sécher nos chaussures.
Mardi 5 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Lobuche (4 930 m)-Gorak Shep (5 160 m)-Kala Pattar (5 600 m). Grasse matinée avec un départ à 7h30 sur un sentier sans réelle difficulté si ce n’est la présence de glace un peu avant Gorak Shep mais ça va, rien qui puisse nous surprendre maintenant ! Arrivé à 9h30 tranquillement, petit thé et départ à 11h15 pour le Kala Pattar avec juste un petit sac pour le pique-nique et l’eau.
Une lodge, le Kala Pattar et le Pumori (7 161 m) :
On arrive au sommet un peu trop tôt pour le couché de soleil et du coup on attend tranquillement au soleil à l’abri du vent. Mais il y a de plus en plus de monde au sommet et ça devient pénible du coup, nous entamons la descente car il n’est pas nécessaire d’aller au sommet du Kala Pattar pour voir l’Everest. A mi-pente, la vue est tout aussi belle (en fait, quasiment identique) et il est donc possible d’avoir la confirmation que l’Everest...
Le problème de l’acclimatation nous a obligé à de courtes étapes les premiers jours car, pour réduire les risque de MAM, il ne faut pas que le dénivelé entre l’endroit où l’on se réveille le matin et celui où l’on se couche le soir soit supérieur à 400 m.
Salut.
Je suis étonné que vous ayez fait Lukla Namche en une seule étape car c'est surtout ce premier jour que le MAM se fait sentir pour une grande majorité. De plus vous n'avez pas fait de journée de repos total à Namche!!
Personnellement en faisant à peu près le même parcours que vous ( D'abord Namche-Thame Renjo la -Gokyo) j'ai fait Lukla Namche en 2 jours et j'avais un peu mal à la tête à Namche.. J'ai donc observé une journée de repos à Namche. Ensuite plus aucun symptôme sur le reste du parcours.
Bonjour,
Il est vrai que cette étape se réalise le plus souvent en deux jours mais je ne suis pas certain que c'est pour des raisons d'acclimatation. A mon avis, c'est davantage à cause de la longueur de l'étape. En effet, il semblerait que le respect des 400 m max de dénivelé positif n'ait d'importance qu'au dessus de 3 000 m. Or, entre Lukla et Jorsale, on ne dépasse pas 3 000 m d'altitude.
Pour ce qui nous concerne, nous n'avons pas eu de maux de tête à Namche Bazaar mais seulement lorsque nous avons atteint le camp de base de l'Ama Dablan à 4 580 m ce qui n'est pas très grave puisque nous sommes redescendus au village de Pangboche à 3 990 m d'altitude.
En y repensant, nous n'avons jamais ressenti de symptôme du MAM la nuit et c'est ça le plus important.
Mercredi 6 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Gorak Shep (5 160 m)-Dzonglha(4 830 m) : 5h30. Départ à 8h tranquillement en reprenant le même sentier jusqu’à Lobuche puis à l’intersection, il faut rester sur la même rive : Dzonglha est indiqué sur un gros rocher. Ensuite, le sentier est en balcon en direction du Taboche Peak et du Cholatse avec un lac vert laiteux à ses pieds. Arrivée à 13h30.
Jeudi 7 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Dzonglha(4 830 m)-Cho la(5 420 m)-Gokyo(4 750 m). Départ à 7h sur un sentier agréable tracé dans la neige puis commence la montée et la marche sur le glacier. Arrivée au col vers 10h.
La descente est comme prévue : raide, enneigée et parfois verglacée.
Fin de la descente à 11h, pause pique-nique puis direction Dranag sur un sentier étroit creusé dans la neige.
Petite pause thé puis traversée de la moraine pour atteindre Gokyo. Le sentier est bien marqué donc pas de problème d’orientation. Par contre, c’est pénible surtout sur la fin pour franchir la paroi ouest de la moraine : arrivée à Gokyo épuisés à 16h30.
Vendredi 8 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Gokyo (4 750 m)-Gokyo Ri (4 750 m)-Gokyo (4 750 m). Journée tranquille avec grasse matinée : départ à 9h pour le Gokyo Ri grimpé d’une traite jusqu’à 10h45. Belle vue sur la moraine du Ngozumpa, l’Everest, le Lohtse, le Makalu et les lacs 2 et 3 de Gokyo, rien qu’ça !
Samedi 9 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Gokyo (4 750 m)-Gyazumba tsho-Gokyo : la journée. Départ 7h pour le 6ème lac de Gokyo. Il y a beaucoup de neige et la progression est rendue difficile par l’étroitesse du sentier qui oblige à poser un pied sur le sentier et le second sur le rebord de glace pas toujours stable. Nous atteignons le 4ème lac sans trop de problème...
mais le 5ème, c’est plus compliqué car le sentier est devenu une sente puis une trace puis quelques empreintes dans la neige puis plus rien... Il a donc fallu se frayer un chemin dans la neige avant de pouvoir atteindre le 5ème lac.
De là, sur le bord de la moraine, il est possible de contempler, paraît-il, la plus belle vue de l’Everest dans une ambiance de no man’s land où on sent bien qu’on est invité à ne pas y rester trop longtemps. Prendre des photos dans ce contexte est peu évident car tout mérite d’être pris en photo : la perspective de la moraine, l’Everest en gros plan ou avec la moraine au premier plan, le Cho oyu (8 201 m), le Gyachung Kang (7 952 m), les lacs…
Et puis l’heure tourne et le soleil se rapproche des montagnes à l’ouest : nous n’avons plus assez de temps pour le 6ème lac n’y l’envie d’ailleurs car, pour cela, il faudrait se frayer un chemin dans la neige et ça fini par être épuisant. C’est au 5ème lac d’ailleurs que je croise un type qui va vers le 6ème lac pour y camper : c’est sans doute ce qu’il faut faire mais s’il n’y avait pas eu tant de neige, l’aller retour dans la journée était faisable. Retour à Gokyo à 16h les pieds trempés.
Dimanche 10 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Gokyo (4 750 m)-Renjo la (5 410 m)-Lungden (4 380 m). Le sentier est bien défini du début à la fin et il n’est pas possible de se perdre car le sentier est creusé dans la neige. Techniquement, la montée ne présente aucune difficulté mais on était crevé et ça nous a parut une éternité. La vue est sensiblement la même que depuis le Gokyo Ri mais, depuis le Renjo La, il est possible d’avoir sur la même photo l’Everest, le Lohtse, le Makalu et le 3ème lac de Gokyo !
Nous avons choisi de réaliser la « haute route de l’Everest » dans le sens contraire des aiguilles d’une montre à cause de ce col. En effet, dans l’autre sens, l’acclimatation est sans doute moins progressive et cela, nous avons pu l’observer au col. Nous avons croisé un groupe d’Allibert Trekking : il y avait deux femmes en pleurs exténuées et un type qui s’est mis à vomir un peu partout complètement désorienté et qui tenait debout uniquement parce que deux guides le tenaient par le bras. C’est lorsque nous sommes arrivés à Lungden (vers 15h35) que nous avons aussi compris la difficulté de ce qu’ils venaient d’endurer. En effet, la descente est interminable alors à la montée, quelle épreuve ! Même avec des porteurs, le dénivelé est quand même costaud.
Lundi 11 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Lungden (4 380 m)-Thame (3 800 m) : 2h30. Descente sans difficulté : nous croisons les participants du solukhumbu Trail partis de Jiri il y a 8 ou 9 jours (http://www.philippe-bourgine.com/skt_recit.asp) : pas facile l’épreuve !
Arrivés à Thame vers 11h30, nous irons sur les hauteurs pour pique-niquer et ensuite visiter le monastère (47 moines). J’avais pensé poursuivre vers Thengpokharka (4 400 m) voire Ngole mais l’arrivée des nuages nous a inciter à retourner bien tranquillement au village.
Mardi 12 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Thame (3 800 m)-Kongde (4 250 m). Alors là, journée épique à plus d’un titre. Départ à 7h30 sur un sentier bien sympathique au milieu d’une forêt de rhododendrons mais avec un dénivelé peu évident : c’est bientôt la fin de notre périple et la fatigue est bien présente.
C’est une étape très surprenante car plus on avance et plus on se demande par où on va passer tellement ce chemin est improbable.
Il faut savoir que ce sentier a été créé par les propriétaires des lodges de Kongde. Après avoir passés plusieurs torrents parfois glacés, des escaliers de pierres eux-mêmes recouverts de neige puis de glace, nous arrivons à une altitude similaire à celle de Kongde (sans pour autant avoir atteint le village) sur ce sentier que nous voyons d’en bas depuis plusieurs heures.
A partir de là, on se dit qu’on est presque arrivé : eh bien non, d’une part, les lodges sont encore loin et d’autre part, le sentier est totalement impraticable sur certaines portions car recouvert d’une épaisse couche de glace et même d’un torrent entièrement glacé, rien qu’ça. Alors, bien entendu, avec des crampons, pas de problème mais sans, c’est une autre histoire. D’ailleurs, le parcours du solukhumbu Trail, qui devait passer par Kongde, a dû être modifié cette année à cause de la glace d’après ce que j’ai pu lire sur leur site.
- Du coup, il a fallu casser la glace avec une pierre de sorte à créer des encoches pour caler les pieds sauf que c’est extrêmement fatiguant et juste périlleux ! Bref, nous finissons par atteindre les lodges vers 15h persuadés d’en avoir fini avec cette journée.
C’était sans compter sur le tarif des chambres. Eh oui, une chambre coûte normalement 200 RN autrement dit pas grand-chose mais là, c’est une autre histoire : entre 165 et 200 $ ! Au début, je n’avais pas bien compris mais c’est bien de dollars que cette jeune fille adolescente habillée en rose fluo me parle avec un aplomb et une insolence assez surprenante, se sentant même obligée de rajouter : « douche comprise ». Sans blague ! Comme si c’était normal de transporter une telle somme en liquide dans les vallées du Khumdu. Et oui, ces lodges sont dites « de luxe » ce qui explique sans doute l’absence du moindre touriste lorsque nous y sommes passés… On en oublierait presque la vue sur l’Everest !
- Du coup, il a fallu entamer l’étape du lendemain jusqu’à Tok Tok. Ce sera l’occasion, une nouvelle fois, de marcher de nuit à la lumière de la frontale sur un sentier peu marqué (ce qui a grandement compliqué la progression). D’autant plus que le sentier Thame-Kongde-Tok Tok ne figure pas sur mon GPS. Tout pour plaire cette journée ! Arrivés à Tok Tok à 18h30 (vivants).
Mercredi 13 novembre 2013 :
- Etape Tok Tok-Lukla (2 850 m) : journée sans embuche : arrivée à 11h30. Par contre, impossible de trouver du thé de rhododendron.
Jeudi 14 novembre 2013 :
- Retour à Katmandou : vol à 7 h : prendre une place à droite de l’appareil pour pouvoir admirer la chaîne himalayenne. Ce n'est pas une piste de décollage mais une piste de lancement !
- Visite de Bhaktapur (en taxi : 800 RN entrée : 1 100 RN/pers) en suivant le parcours du Lonely Planet
- Visite du temple de Changu Narayan (taxi : 1 400 RN avec retour sur Thamel ensuite entrée : 100 RN/pers) : ces temples se ressemblent tous un peu à vrai dire ;
Il n'est pas rare de tomber sur des scènes d'éviscération lors de la visite de ces temples :
- Restaurant : Everest Steak House comme à chaque retour de trek pour son célèbre Chateaubrillant : une pièce de bœuf de la taille de mon bras !
- Hôtel Trekker’s Home (coût : 14 $ par pers Thamel) (le Khangsar Guest House était complet).
Vendredi 15 novembre 2013 :
- Direction le temple Gokarna Mahadev en taxi (coût : 700 RN) Visite du temple :
- Direction à pied vers le monastère de Kopan (durée : 1h) visite du monastère.
- Visite de Bodhnath (s’y rendre à pied : 40 min 150 RN pour la visite du stupa) : l’un des plus grands stupas du monde ;
- Passage par le stupa de Chabahil :
- Visite de Pashupatinath (relier à pied : 20 min coût : 1 000 RN mais pas de visite possible du temple pour les non hindous) :
Intéressant essentiellement pour les cérémonies de crémation et peut être aussi pour le temple de type mongol qui se trouve sur la droite au sommet des marches.
- Direction Katmandou.
- Hôtel Trekker’s Home.
Samedi 16 novembre 2013 :
- Direction Kirtipur (en taxi : 650 RN mais il semble difficile de trouver un taxi dans cette ville et le notre nous incite à le conserver toute la journée ce que nous ferons car nous ne verrons que peu de taxis. Après négociation, nous passerons de 3 000 à 2 300 RN) : visite des monuments. La ville est agitée par des manifestations politiques pour les prochaines élections.
Toujours aussi étonnant ces scènes de sexe sculptées sur les étais des temples :
- Puis le temple de Dakshinkali : il était conseillé de le visiter le samedi pour pouvoir assister à des sacrifices d’animaux mais nous n’en verrons aucun.
- Puis passage rapide à Pharping puis Chobar.
- Hôtel Trekker’s Home.
Dimanche 17 novembre 2013 :
- Vol à 10 h : le taxi pour aller à l’aéroport demande 1 000 RN : il en aura 400 ! Ne pas perdre de vue que le périple ne sera terminé qu’après le transit à l’aéroport de New Dehli qui est lamentable avec un temps d’attente absolument hallucinant !
Merci pour ce récit et les photos superbes. J'étais allé seul dans le Solu Khumbu (Kala Patar et Gokyo ri) en 2002 et je n'imaginais pas qu'il était possible de sortir de cette façon des sentiers battus et des foules qui me faisaient peur. Du coup, ça me donne l'envie d'organiser quelque chose là bas d'autant plus que je dois m'y trouver probablement en novembre 2014 sans projet pour l'instant! Merci donc!
bonjour Boz,
j' étais dans le même avion que toi au retour sur Paris et suis le responsable du retard au décollage à Delhi car il me manquait un coup de tampon sur mon passeport.
Je me suis promis de ne jamais remettre les pieds dans un avion d' Air India, l' an prochain ce sera la Turkish Airlines ou les compagnies du golfe.
Nous avons fait à peu près le même trek.
Pour les à-côtés sympathiques, je rajouterai le Sumder Peak depuis Thame ou mieux encore le Sumder Pass ( sans chemin ) pour joindre la vallée du Nangpa-La à Thame par Thengpo ( vallée du Thabsi-Lapsa ).
Comme ça ce ne sont plus les 3 mais les 4 cols.
Un autre à-côté superbe, c' est le camp de base de l' Amphu-Lapsa depuis Chuckung : tu prends le chemin du camp de base de l' Imja-Tse et au bout du grand vallon, à la fourche, c' est la piste de droite : ça ouvre tout le panorama sur le Nupse et le Lhotse.
A noter que les cartes Schneider, les seules fiables viennent enfin de sortir en couleurs avec les itinéraires et les lodges : au 50000 ème, c' est le top, un peu cher mais impeccable, qui plus est on peut y accéder sur le net :
http://icaci.org/map-of-the-month-122013/
Superbe compte rendu, un itinéraire assez alpin, un magnifique thar de l'Himalaya (le fameux bélier héhé).
Les vues sont toujours aussi belles dans le coin de Gokyo!
Quand je parlais du transit à Dehli, je parlais surtout du temps d'attente pour passer le controle bagage qui a été extrêmement long au point d'arriver dans l'avion à la toute fin de l'embarquement.
Pour le camp de base de l' Amphu-Lapsa, je crois que c'était à mon programme mais je n'ai pas trouvé le sentier ou plus exactement, il était recouvert de neige.
Mais c'est vrai que la visite des vallées adjacentes peut permettre de découvrir toujours plus de lacs, cols, crêtes... C'est sans fin !
C'est donc un thar de l'hymalaya ! A vrai dire, au début, je l'ai vu de profil et ça ressemble énormément à un fauve, genre lion. C'est quand il a tourné la tête vers moi que j'ai vu ses cornes de bélier. C'était déjà plus rassurant :)
Quand je parlais du transit à Dehli, je parlais surtout du temps d'attente pour passer le controle bagage qui a été extrêmement long au point d'arriver dans l'avion à la toute fin de l'embarquement.
Pour le camp de base de l' Amphu-Lapsa, je crois que c'était à mon programme mais je n'ai pas trouvé le sentier ou plus exactement, il était recouvert de neige.
Mais c'est vrai que la visite des vallées adjacentes peut permettre de découvrir toujours plus de lacs, cols, crêtes... C'est sans fin !
Le chemin de l' Amphu était effectivement un peu planqué :
Un grand merci pour ce récit complet et ces belles photos !
Cela donne envie de partir ...
Peut être pourriez-vous m'éclairer sur certains points ?
Voilà: Nous partons faire un trek dans cette région en février. Ce trek dure 12 jours pour moi et peut aller jusqu'à 2 semaines supplémentaires pour mon mari. Pas évident, je sais. Dans l'idéal, je voudrais faire le parcours classique jusqu'au Khalapattar puis Cho La , Gokyo retour Lukla. Certains disent que c'est possible en terme de timing, d'autres non. On verra. Tout dépendra de la météo bien sûr. Nous avons pris un guide et un porteur pour faire ce trek. L'idée première était que mon mari une fois de retour sur Namche continue le trek. Pas mal de questions à ce niveau là: Peut il trouver un guide sur place pour faire Island Peak , ( peut être pas très judicieux car il serait contraint de repasser par le même chemin, du moins au début). Ou encore poursuivre le trek par le Rolwaling en tentant l'ascension du Pacharmo ? La aussi un guide serait indispensable. Ou encore rejoindre Lukla par Chukung puis la région du Makalu ? Autre idée, retourner sur Katmandu et démarrer un autre trek (ex Langtang). Je précise qu'il n'est pas loin de l'âge de votre père mais il est habitué aux treks en haute altitude.
Encore une autre option: que nous fassions ensemble la route classique jusqu'au Khalapattar avec un "détour" par Chhukung puis Kongma La , mon mari pourrait poursuivre sa route vers Gokyo.
Comme je ne pourrai faire qu'une partie , que me conseillerez-vous ? la région de Chukung avec passage du Kongma La ou bien celle des lacs Gokyo ?
Bref, beaucoup d'hésitations
Merci d'avance pour vos précisions.
L'étape entre Lukla et Namche en une journée n'a t'elle pas été un peu dure ? Si non , on l'envisagerait bien...
Nimou, les trekking-peaks comme le Parchamo ou l' Imja-Tse sans permis ce n' est pas évident.
En Novembre un Catalan sans permis cherchait un guide à Chuckung : on lui a proposé un package à 1000 USD, package qu' il a évidemment refusé...et il est rentré à la maison.
Le Parchamo est plus délicat que l' Imja-Tse car le camping est quasi-impératif, donc une agence s' impose encore plus.
Et les contrôles existent, en particulier dans la Rolwaling car il y a très peu de passage, donc facile à contrôler.
Merci de m'avoir répondu.
Je sais que les trekking peaks ne sont pas envisageables sans permis et qu'une agence s'imposent pour ce type de parcours.
A la réflexion , on s'orienterait peut être vers une montée vers le Kalapattar avec un détour via chukung puis le Kongma la si celui-ci est praticable. Je rejoindrais Lukla ensuite par le sentier "principal" et mon mari poursuivrait sa route via le Cho la , si praticable lui aussi , puis Gokyo, Renjo La Thame.
Je ne sais pas si c'est une bonne idée car j'aurais aimé faire le trek vers Gokyo, mais il faut faire un choix puisque je n'ai que 12 jours de trek au total.
Entre la partie Chhukung + Kongma La et la partie Gokyo + Cho La , que faut il privilégier ?
Je retiens que le trek Thame Rolwaling requiert l'organisation d'une agence car pas de lodge en chemin et passage de glaciers, même chose sans doute vers la partie ouest de Chhukung au Makalu Barun Park . Il est difficile d'avoir des infos sur ces 2 parcours qui ne concerneraient que mon mari et qui ne va pas sur les forums...
-déja si vous avez 2 gros sacs, autant prendre 2 porteurs au départ de Lukla car le porteur pris en route si vous vous séparez saura qu' il est indispensable et fera monter très largement son prix.
-pour le Barun soyez prudents, l' Amphu-Lapsa et le Mingbo-La sont plus proches de l' alpinisme que du trekking classique.
-12 jours c' est court pour rajouter un col car l' acclimatation va être très juste : on peut parfaitement profiter du coin en faisant "Lobuche-EBC-Gorashep puis Gorashep-Kalapattar-Dzonghla et enfin Dzonghla - Pheriche direct -Pangboche" sachant que vous pouvez redescendre directement de Dzongha avec votre porteur pendant que mr attaque le Cho-La avec l' autre porteur avec le guide..........tout cela évidemment si les conditions sont correctes.
Merci encore pour vos précisions. On étudie l'idée du 2ème porteur.
Je dispose sans doute d'un lapse de temps trop court pour rajouter le Cho la + Gokyo , à moins de courir , mais comme je me suis fait une assez méchante fracture au bras en descendant le Kili cet été, je vais être prudente !
En revanche , il me semble que rajouter Chhukung au trajet est chose possible. De là plusieurs options se présenteraient à nous le lendemain. (Chhukung ri ? ... Bref à voir) . Cette partie du trek en vaut elle la peine ?
J'abandonne aussi l'idée du Kongma la .
Personnellement j'ai beaucoup apprécié les lacs de Gokyo. Loger à Gokyo et faire une journée vers le 5 ième ou le 6 ieme lac en longeant le Ngozumba. La vallée de La dudh Kosi menant aux lacs de Gokyo est également magnifique.
Un trek relativement facile de 8 jours sans besoin de rentrer de Lukla en avion sur KTM consiste à rejoindre l'Arun vallée vers Tumlingtar puis Hille et rentrer en bus à KTM
Oui c'est justement là mon souci. C'était bien l'idée première de rejoindre Gokyo après le Kala Pathar , mais je crains ne pas avoir assez de temps, d'où l'idée de "zapper" ce bel endroit et aller vers Chukkung à la place. De là faire un aller retour au camp de base d'Island Peak ou Chhukung ri (si nous avons assez de force !).
En gros si nous choisissons cette dernière option , mon mari pourrait ensuite se diriger seul vers les lacs Gokyo Renjo pass etc... (Tant pis pour moi ! snif !)
Alors que s'il nous est possible de combiner ensemble Kal Pathar par la route directe (pas de Kongma la par exemple) et Gokyo , lui pourrait ensuite rejoindre l'Arun vallée.
Il faut qu'on investisse dans une carte vraiment détaillée car ce que j'ai est très flou. On ne voit pas comment rejoindre cette vallée. De Chukkung ?
Merci pour vos précisions
Ce n'est que mon avis mais je zapperais plus facilement le Kalla Patar.. ( trop de monde à mon goût) Je ferais Namche- Gokyo -Cho La- Dingboche Chukung-lac Imja Tsho..
On ne voit pas comment rejoindre cette vallée. De Chukkung ?
Chukkung-Namche- Monjo Surkhet -Kirawali- Tiu.-..Salpa vers Tumlingtar
S' il y a affluence au Kalapattar le plus simple est de remonter la moraine du camp de base de l' Everest, évidemment de ne pas prendre la descente au camp de base si tu fais de l' agoraphobie, mais de tirer à gauche et de remonter sur la croupe jusqu' à 5550 : c' est au moins aussi bien que le Kalapattar et archi-tranquille.
L' approche du BC est superbe et hors saison le camp est déserté.
J'avais effectivement pensé à commencer par Gokyo puis Cho la. Il me semblait que c'était presque plus logique dans ce sens.
On a quand même envie d'approcher l'Everest. C'est la raison pour laquelle on voudrait faire le Kala pathar.
Comme la météo risque d'être incertaine à cette époque avec des cols peut être infranchissables , on y sera dans la 2ème quinzaine de février, nous avons opté pour l'autre sens.
Y a t' il beaucoup de monde durant cette période ?
Pourquoi pas si la vue est semblable ? Je ne fais pas d'agoraphobie mais qui aime la foule surtout pendant un trek ?
On avait choisi cette période en partie parce qu'on pensait qu'il y avait moins de monde... Zut zut alors !
L' agoraphobie, c' était de l' humour pour répondre aux poncifs mille fois rabâchés " et il y a plein de poubelles au BC, et il y a plein de monde au Kalapattar, et bla-bla-bla ".
Tiens, voilà le Kalapattar en pleine saison touristique : pas de quoi stresser !
J'y suis allé à cheval sur Février /Mars il semble que l'affluence commence en Mars.. Les statistiques concernant le nb de visiteurs sont affichées à l'entrée du parc les records sont Octobre et Avril. je crois 10.000 trekkers et alpiniste dans le Khumbu durant ces mois-là..
Pour info j'ai commencé par l'ouest :Thame Lungden Renjo la -Gokyo entre Thame et Gokyo je n'ai croisé que 3 personnes en sens inverse venant de Gokyo..les loges à Lungden étaient totalement vides. Le Renjo la était assez enneigé faut donc partir très tot pour franchir les différents cols ( neige dure!) Vers Chukung puis le camp de base du Lhotse et celui de l'Island peak je n'ai cette fois dépassé qu'un groupe d'une dizaine de Japonais qui montait à l'Island peak c'était vers le 10 mars.
Et bien tout ceci est rassurant !
Alors nous allons tenter le Cho la après le Kalapathar ou l'EBC pour nous diriger vers Gokyo....
Si cela est impossible, nous descendrons à Dingboche , puis à Chhukung pour voir les lacs et le CB d'Island Peak.
Mon mari envisage maintenant de prendre l'avion de Lukla à Katmandu en même temps que moi. Il prévoit un trek de 12 jours dans la région du Langtang Helambu en autonomie.
Qu'en pensez-vous ?
Je prends la discussion en route mais pour ma part, ce qui m'aura le plus marqué sur ce trek, c'est le Kala Pathar et les lacs de Gokyo. Je pense qu'il est possible d'aller sur ces deux sites en 12 jours mais c'est très juste. Et sans compter de journée de sécurité.
Pour ce qui concerne la "foule de trekkers", je n'ai rien vu de tel.
Merci pour cette info. Ce sont les 2 endroits "prioritaires" pour nous.
Espérons que nous pourrons réaliser ce périple.
En terme d'étapes je pensais (en gros):
J1 : Lukla / Pakding (ou plus loin ?)
J2 Pakding/Namche
J3 Namche (adaptation) ou adaptation plus haut ? ex Tingboche
J4 Pangboche
J5 Periche ou Dingboche
J6 Dingboche/Lobuche
J7 Lobuche/ Gorashep/ Kalapattar dans l'après-midi
J8 Gorashep / Dzongla
J9 Dzongla/ Cho la/ Gokyo (très longue journée)
J10 Gokyo (Gokyo ri ? les lacs , absolument magnifiques sur les photos surtout le 6ème)
J11 Descente vers Namche
J12 Descente vers Lukla
Je suis bien sûr très consciente que c'est la version "optimiste". Les jours 9, 10 , 11 et 12 seront chargés , je sais. J'ai tenu compte des étapes classiques proposées par les agences ainsi que sur ce forum.
Si la météo ne le permet pas car ce sera durant la 2ème quinzaine de février , le J8, nous descendrons vers Dingboche , J9 Chhukung...puis retour vers Lukla.
Si nous réussissons à faire l'option 1 , mon mari pourra ainsi faire un 2ème trek ailleurs (Langtang Halambu ?) car il lui restera encore 2 semaines au Népal. Pas moi.
Si on ne parvient pas à rejoindre Gokyo , on tentera l'option 2 et il poursuivra ensuite seul vers les lacs Gokyo par la vallée.
N'hésite-pas à me dire ce que tu en penses ! Merci d'avance
le j3, ballade indispensable plus haut sur la journée (thame ar par exemple)
le j4 à Pamboche me semble un peu présomptueux. Je pense plus simple d'aller dormir à Devoche (20' sous le monastère, au milieu des arbres)
le j7, l'aller retour lobuche - K patar dans la journée est totalement possible, probablement mieux qu'aller passer une mauvaise nuit à GoraShep, au vu de l'acclimatation.
le j9 dzongla - gokyo est possible, attention toutefois à la traversée du glacier de Gokyo dans la journée avec des gués parfois difficiles (plus faciles le matin).
le j10 nécessite un choix ou alors une grosse journée (compter 3h30 pour l'AR à Gokyo ri, 2h30 si en top forme). il faut compter qq heures en plus pour les lacs.
le j11 est une très longue journée (attention à la dernière montée de 400m 2h avant namche... après 6 à 7 h de marche).
Merci de m'avoir répondu.
Ce programme est bien sûr modifiable.
Bien sûr qu'une "ballade" sera prévue le J3.
Je ne sais pas si Pangboche est "présomptueux"; Je me suis contentée de recopier plusieurs programmes donnés par les agences. Encore une fois, c'est de l'approximatif. Devoche pourquoi pas ...
Oui j'avais bien précisé que pour le jour 10, on aurait un choix à faire entre Gokyo ri et les lacs. Je pencherais pour les lacs, d'après les retours que j'ai lus. Peut être serait il préférable d'ailleurs de dormir plus bas , à Machermo par exemple ?
Jour 1 : j'aurai fait Lukla-Namche le même jour pour 2 raisons : ça fait gagner 1 journée et en plus ça fait 1 nuit d'acclimatation. Avant Namche, on ne dépasse pas les 3 000 m donc il n'y a pas vraiment d'acclimatation.
Jour 2 : balade à proximité de Namche : 2ème nuit d'acclimatation.
Jour 3 : Namche-Tengboche.
Jour 4 : Tengboche-Pangboche : étape très courte mais difficile de faire autrement à cause de l'aclimatation (possibilité de faire l'aller retour au camp de base de l'Ama Dablan.
Jour 5 : Pangboche-Dingboche.
Jour 6 : Dingboche-Lobuche.
Jour 7 : Lobuche-Kala Pathar-Lobuche.
Jour 8 : Lobuche-Dzongla.
Jour 9 : Dzongla-Cho La-Gokyo : grosse journée (ne pas sous-estimer la traversée de la moraine, surtout la fin).
Jour 10 : soit le Gokyo Ri qu'il est possible de coupler avec le 4ème lac, soit les lacs 4, 5 voire 6 si les conditions le permettent.
Jour 11 et 12 : direction Lukla.
Le problème de ce genre de parcours c'est qu'il ne laisse pas de marge de manoeuvre en cas de pépin (tourista, une étape non terminée, problème d'avion pour le retour à Katmandou à cause de la météo).
Merci pour ces infos.
Effectivement, j'avais remarqué que vous aviez fait Lukla/Namche dans la même journée. (Compte rendu très intéressant et superbes photos d'ailleurs). Si nous y arrivons , cela nous permettrait d'ajouter une journée d'acclimatation plus haut. On a vu que l'étape courte de Namche à Tingboche permet de monter au C de b d'Ama Dablan.
Si nous optons pour cette étape, croyez-vous qu'il soit possible de faire le lendemain Tengboche/Dingboche ; ce qui nous permettrait d'ajouter une 2nde journée d'acclimatation à Dingboche?
Si les conditions le permettent, que nous conseilleriez-vous: Gokyo ri ou le 5ème, voire le 6ème lac ? (beauté, difficulté...)
Avec 12 jours, j'aurai 1 journée entière de sécurité pour le retour. Vol très tôt le matin de Lukla. Lendemain à Katmandu ou journée de sécurité. Vol international pour moi le surlendemain.
Pas simple, mais il me tarde d'y être !
Nous aurons un guide et un porteur.
Tengboche est à 3 860 m et Dingboche est à 4 400 m : ce n'est donc pas possible pour des raisons d'acclimatation car le dénivelé est de 540 m sauf à être peu sensible aux symptôme du MAM (maux de tête notamment).
Le Gokyo Ri seul ne rempli pas une journée alors que la visite des lacs prend toute la journée : je pense que le Gokyo Ri vaut le coup quitte à rejoindre le lac n° 4 ensuite.
La vue de l'Everest depuis le lac n° 5 est belle mais assez lointaine : si vous avez pu l'observer depuis le Kala Pathar, peut-être est ce suffisant.
Je peux comprendre l'intérêt d'un porteur mais le guide, sur un parcours comme celui là, pas sûr qu'il ait une utilité...
Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces précisions.
J'ai réservé ce trek par une petite agence locale car j'ai un timing assez serré; c'est la raison pour laquelle nous avons un guide. Peut être sera t' il utile pour le passage du Cho La ?
L'avantage de Gokyo Ri serait qu'il nous permettrait éventuellement de dormir plus bas de façon à ce que la journée de marche du J11 soit moins longue. D'un autre côté le paysage autour des 5ème et 6 ème lacs a l'air vraiment féerique...
Jusque là nous avons été très peu sujets au MAM , mais qui sait ?
Ca devait être marrant à voir ce "village de tentes" comme tu dis, cette communauté éphémère. Ca doit aussi être le moyen de faire de belles rencontres.
Récits de voyage et conseils pour la préparation d'un tour du monde sur http://tour-monde.fr/
merci Arnaud pour ce récit de ton trek . les photos sont superbes .
Ca m'a rappelé mon trek il y a déjà 11 ans . j'ai envie d'y retourner car en 2011 je suis arrivée en plein semaine lorsqu'il y a eu Lukkla de bloqué durant une semaine donc une autre direction pour moi.
Merci et bravo pour le compte-rendu.
J'ai fait le trek de Lukkla au Camp de base de l'Everest; mais pas nécessairement par les mêmes étapes.
J'avais 63 ans alors. J'en ai 67 maintenant.
Gaétan
Grand Merci pour cet excellent recit plein de details comme je/on les aime, et superbes photos!
Cela me donne envie d'y retourner cette fois pour la rando sur ces si nombreux sentiers, la derniere fois mon programme etait coupe entre le Nepal et l'Inde donc pas eu le tps ...je regrette bien depuis!
Encore merci!
"Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants" Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Je me suis promis de ne jamais remettre les pieds dans un avion d' Air India....
35 ans de voyages entre la France et le Népal, mon épouse et moi même avons mis une crois définitive sur cette compagnie préférant payer un peu plus et transiter par le golf persique...😕
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Pour plus de détails et de photos, cliquer ici: si belle la terre Depuis toujours (enfin disons depuis que j’ai eu l’âge de découvrir l’album de Tintin au…
Nous avons fait le trek (randonnée) de Langtang du 10 au 17 septembre, le premier et le dernier jour étant l’aller de Kathmandou et le retour – donc 6 jours de…
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
Bonjour tout le monde, nous voici rentrés d'un RT USA organisé par nos soins du 31/07/2026 au 26/08/2026.
La destination : Le Sud-Ouest USA avec le Texas, l'Arizona et le Nouveau-Mexique. 7000 kilomètres effectués à la louche.
L'Auto : Une Chevrolet Equinoxe pour deux en passant par BSP Auto et Avis. Et dedans 2 valises, un sac de voyage, deux valises cabines, la glacière de chez Walmart, le matos photos et les bouteilles d'eau (pack de 40).
Le trajet : Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo et Dallas pour finir avec départ sur DFW.
Les voyageurs : Deux séniors bien avancés dans l'âge (73 et 75) mais toujours en activité (pas épuisante physiquement) (pour rester vivants et financer les voyages), autonomes physiquement à 100%, intellectuellement beaucoup moins, passionnés des USA, pays où tout est possible, plus marcheurs que randonneurs, plutôt hôtels à partir de 3 étoiles que motels de bord de route, plutôt restos Italiens que nourriture US, adeptes des arrêts fréquents pour les photos, plutôt musées que rien, Plutôt sieste que marches forcées. Pas trop râleurs, juste ce qu'il faut pour rester français au pays du grand Satan qu'ils disent.
Pas trés doués pour les langues, Anglais des rues (mais bien pratique), Espagnol nul pour moi hormis : " Hola ! Una Cerveza por Favor ! " Cela fait court. Madame comprend tout mais refuse de parler.
Le coût du RT : Environ 12 000 euros avec les vols AF, Auto, Essence, cadeaux, visites et tutti quanti. Bien maitrisé puisque 13500 euros prévus au départ.
Le bilan positif : Un régal avec les longues routes à perte de vue. Des Musées à découvrir. Le constat de la présence Hispanique et de son Histoire importante dans ce secteur de l'Amérique. Des locaux adorables. Des touristes plus ou moins sympas. Un accent Texan abominable et difficile à comprendre. Des stations Gas qui sont de véritables magasins avec nourriture préparée et autre alcools vendus en Arizona et Nouveau-Mexique et des employés au top ! Toujours prêts à rigoler !
Le bilan négatif : La chaleur tout au long du séjour...43° sur Dallas en fin de séjour. Impossible de sortir dans les rues. Beaucoup de "Homeless" dans les rues de l'Hyper Centre de Dallas. Les breakfasts Hôtel toujours les mêmes. On s'y fait.
Donc, positif certes mais le concept commence à fatiguer. Il se pourrait que le modèle RT autonome soit repensé pour le prochain. SI celui qui est en haut nous prête vie.
Pour la suite, attendons les premières photos triées et passées à la moulinette.
Le dernier carnet sur le Turkménistan date de 2019. Voici donc un court retour sur ce vaste pays désertique qui se visite un peu plus facilement qu'auparavant.
C'est mon premier carnet. Si vous avez des questions, n'hésitez pas. Le pays s'ouvre lentement mais il est possible de visiter des sites où vous serez tout seul. En 5 jours, j'ai vu 2 hongkongais, quelques allemands et un chilien au cratère, 10 chinois dans un bazar de la capitale, et c'est tout !
Il est possible de visiter le Turkménistan depuis l'Ouzbékistan. Le plus simple et le plus économique est de se rendre en taxi jusqu'à la frontière depuis Boukhara. Le trajet prend un peu plus d'une heure.
Le passage de la frontière est assez long puisque de nombreux Turkmènes ramènent des objets achetés en Ouzbékistan afin de pouvoir les revendre au Turkménistan. Par exemple des couches, des produits pour bébés ou des produits de beauté.
Il m'a fallu plus de 2h30 pour franchir la frontière. Il est obligatoire pour visiter le Turkménistan d'avoir un guide et de passer par une agence de voyage. Les agences britanniques proposent souvent des séjours de trois, cinq ou sept jours à plus de 1 500 ou 2 000 euros.
Mais si votre budget est plus limité, il vous suffit de contacter quelques agences turkmènes directement par mail qui vous feront une proposition entre 700 et 1 300 euros pour trois à sept jours. J'ai pris un séjour de 5 jours de Turkmenabat dans le Nord-Est du pays jusqu'à Dashoguz dans le Nord. L'objectif est de visiter les principaux sites classés à l'Unesco, dont Merv, et les sites archéologiques comme Nisa ou Gonur Tepe.
Votre guide sera également le chauffeur. Il viendra vous chercher à la frontière. Les formalités sont très longues car les douaniers doivent multiplier les tampons et l'obtention du visa que vous avez préalablement demandé à votre agence de voyage nécessite plusieurs contrôles. Mais le passage se fait relativement aisément même si chaque étape est assez longue.
Une fois de l'autre côté, première surprise, l'autoroute est très récente jusqu'à Turkmenabat. Une très longue file de camions s'étend sur plusieurs kilomètres du côté turkmène afin de pouvoir passer la frontière et aller en Ouzbékistan. En effet, selon mon guide, les camions turkmènes transportent du gaz, du coton (pas à cette saison puisque la récolte a lieu en septembre), mais ont surtout un réservoir plein car le prix du carburant est beaucoup moins cher au Turkménistan. Un plein pour une voiture vaut à peu près 3 euros, ce qui est défiant toute concurrence.
Depuis le poste frontière de Farap, l'objectif est d'atteindre la ville de Mary qui abrite dans sa banlieue, à une trentaine de kilomètres, le site classé à l'UNESCO de Merv. Cette cité est connue comme étant une fondation d'Alexandre le Grand au IVe siècle avant Jésus-Christ sous le nom d'Alexandrie de Margiane. Plusieurs forteresses sont visibles.
Après plus de trois heures de route, nous déjeunons dans un restaurant turc qui s'appelle Aladdin. Plusieurs citations du président sont visibles sur l'autoroute, mais la route est de qualité et on avance aisément. Ce sera de loin la meilleure route du pays. ça se gâtera largement par la suite.
Les ronds-points sont particulièrement intéressants puisqu'on y retrouve des emblèmes de la culture turkmène, soit le chien, soit un tapis, soit le cheval Ahal Teke soit des symboles musulmans, même si la présence d'artefacts islamiques est assez réduite.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Il arrive souvent qu'on nous demande quoi visiter en Belgique .
Et les réponses ramènent le plus souvent à Bruges , Gand, Anvers et Bruxelles , avec raison , ces villes valant la peine d'être visitées 😉 .
Toutefois, la Belgique, bien que petite , ne se limite pas à ces 4 villes .
J'habite l'une d'entre elles ( Bruxelles) , passe avec plaisir du temps dans les trois autres , mais j'ai envie d'aborder d'autres coins moins connus , qui pourront compléter le séjour de ceux qui ont envie d'en voir un peu plus , ou de voir autre chose .
C'est qu'entre deux voyages , j'aime bien visiter l'un ou l'autre coin du pays où j'habite .
D'où l'idée d'un carnet de balades .
La plupart des endroits dont je vais parler peuvent être visités en faisant l'aller-retour le même jour , au départ de Bruxelles , que ce soit en transports en commun ou en voiture .
Dans l'ordre chronologique des sujets abordés :
- Le barrage de la Gileppe ( province de Liège) -message 2 , page 1
- Le domaine de La Hulpe ( Brabant wallon ) - message 3 , page 1
- Malines ( province d'Anvers ) message 4 , page 1
- La côte - message 5 , page 1
- Le Westhoek , au départ de La Panne - message 6 , page 1
- Le Zwin, au départ de Knokke - message 7 , page 1
- Lier ( entre Malines et Anvers ) - message 8 , page 1
- Mons (Hainaut) - message 9 , page 1
- La région de Florenville . - message 12 , page 1
- Les Cantons de l'Est - message 13 , page 1
- Dinant - message 18 , page 1
- Le jardin japonais d'Hasselt - message 24 , page 2
- Louvain message 29 , page 2
- Louvain-la-neuve - message 32 , page 2
- Ostende - message 42 (page 3) et message 166 (page 9)
- Les floralies de Grand-Bigard . - message 43 , page 3
- Le bois de Halle -message 44 , page 3
- Les pralines - message 54 , page 3
- Charleroi - message 68 , page 4
- Namur - message 92 , page 5
- Le Bois du Cazier ( Marcinelle) - message 95 , page 5
- Les couques et les gozettes - message 96 , page 5
- Liège - message 99 , page 5
- Tournai - message 115 , page 6 .
- Audenarde ( Oudenaarde ) - message 121, page 7
- Jardin botanique de Meise - message 124, page 7 .
- Tongres ( Tongeren ) - message 125 , page 7 .
- Château de Beersel ( Brabant flamand) - message 126, page 7 .
- Bruxelles confinée ( messages 150 et 154 , page 8 )
- L'hôpital Notre Dame à la Rose , à Lessines ( messages 161 et 162 , page 9 ) .
- Westende ( message 167, page 9)
je complète cette liste au fur et à mesure de l'avancement du carnet ...
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!
The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not the south?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or go with the flow?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
You’ll find here a post with some practical information.
And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.
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As a supplement, the route track.
Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
January 2026
Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
I’d been wanting to discover Sulawesi for years. But then life happened—COVID, the cost of flight tickets, you name it. Long story short, years went by, but we finally set off as a family for a three-week trip in southern Sulawesi: Rammang Rammang, Rantepao, Sengkang, Bira, and Selayar.
I like to spend a good amount of time in the places I visit, giving myself the chance to really get to know the area and meet locals. So no island-hopping this time—just the south. But when I say "just," it’s not restrictive at all, given how rich this island is in landscapes, little encounters, and magical moments.
Wednesday 07/08 - Thursday 07/09:
We left Montpellier for what was supposed to be five flights, though we only took four to start, landing in Jakarta.
We picked up our luggage there to catch a flight to Makassar the next day. That’s the only way we could get an affordable ticket (702 €).
I won’t bore you with the flight details—there’s not much to say. We arrived at 7 PM and considered heading straight to Makassar that evening. But we opted for a recovery night before taking off again. Good thing we did, because my son’s suitcase was missing...
First contact with the locals was a bit stressful—a trip without your luggage isn’t exactly fun. But right away, a woman reassured us: the suitcase was just enjoying some extra time in Singapore. Maybe it was doing some last-minute shopping. Anyway, nothing serious—it was supposed to arrive at 9 AM the next day. That gave us some breathing room since our flight wasn’t until noon.
So off we went to our hotel (Days Hotel & Suites) near the airport. It was cheap (40 € for three rooms—my kids are older and need their space), but it wasn’t worth much more. The place had definitely seen better days. But no big deal—we were only there for the night, and... we got to watch France beat Morocco in the World Cup live at 3 AM. That’s what really mattered!
Friday 07/10: In search of the lost suitcase
First challenge of the morning: finding our missing suitcase. They sent us to the airport basement, to the staff entrance. We were greeted with smiles, and an airport employee led me through the underground corridors back to the baggage claim. Right on time at 9 AM, the suitcase arrived, just like they’d promised. We were finally complete!
Off we went to change terminals, grab a well-deserved meal, and board our fifth flight to Makassar.
Little side note: I struggled for a while trying to book domestic flights directly on the airlines’ websites with no luck. Without meaning to advertise (though I guess I am a little), I realized it’d be easier to use sites like tiket.com or Traveloka. That turned out to be a great choice—I even ended up booking hotels through them later in the trip.
12:40 PM: We were on our way to Makassar. First good news: we were the only tourists. Well, the only European tourists on the flight, anyway.
No, you’re not dreaming—the bag is full of... potato chip packets.
To each their own souvenirs, I guess...
When we arrived in Makassar, a driver was waiting to take us straight to Rammang Rammang: 250,000 IDR (12 €) to our guesthouse (Rammang Rammang House). Forget about meeting people on the bus—we were headed straight to the first stop of our trip, and it was already stunning.
My kids’ guesthouse:
Ours:
View of the little lake:
But not everything is straightforward around here.
I wanted to get a local SIM card for internet and calls. I found them expensive at Jakarta’s airport (20 € for 20 GB), so I decided to wait. Well, no luck in Rammang Rammang either. You can’t just buy one from the local shop—you need a Telkomsat store (they have the best coverage). So we’d have to wait for Rantepao to get Wi-Fi... When I say "local shop," I mean the little shack around the corner. No big deal—we’d find one easily in Rantepao for 5 € and 25 GB. So there we were, offline, just the four of us enjoying the amazing view.
Saturday 07/11: Rammang Rammang
We woke up early to the sound of wedding music blasting through the village (everyone’s invited!). Off we went to explore the area.
A little walking, a little boat ride (shared with a French tourist and a Polish one—yes, there *are* tourists here, just not many; 750,000 IDR for up to 8 people) through a lovely canal, and we discovered the karst site. It was peaceful and beautiful.
The river:
The karst site:
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Okay, Palermo—we know it. We go there to marvel at the architectural wonders born from the Arab-Norman-Byzantine-Gothic mix. And rightly so. We also go to treat our taste buds to all kinds of delights, both savory and sweet. Again, rightly so. We go to succumb to the charms of Palermo’s women, their sun-kissed skin glowing with golden highlights. Still, rightly so. And all while fantasizing about a mafia we’ll never actually see. Anyway.
But you’ll also find street art everywhere, even in the historic center. Sometimes, you just need to step a few meters away from the main tourist highways like Cassaro, Via Maqueda, or the main arteries of the Ballarò, Capo, or Vucciria markets to stumble upon some amazing murals. Duck into one or two slightly grimy alleys, weaving past trash and crumbling walls, and you’ll find real gems.
For example, just 50 meters south of the main artery of the Mercato del Capo, there’s a great spot with dozens of murals in a tiny neighborhood of run-down mini-houses. You’ll find plenty more south of the Mercato di Ballarò, in the Albergheria (the grittier side, not the one near Cassaro). There’s some in Ballarò itself too, but it’s hard to spot when the market’s in full swing with stalls everywhere. La Kalsa isn’t left out either, nor is Vucciria—just step away from the restaurant-packed streets.
Here are a few examples that really caught my eye.
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary:
27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)
-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)
-->7 days in Tokyo
The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots...
decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring
research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan
book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later
reserve rental cars
order yen
check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life!
Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats.
Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited.
Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Before Our Departure
Preparing for this trip started 9 months before our departure in June. For those planning a similar itinerary, it’s important to book accommodations well in advance, especially in the Okavango and Savuti campsites—otherwise, you might not find any availability.
Introduction
After visiting Zambia three years ago and Namibia and western Botswana a year and a half ago, this year we chose Zimbabwe (Hwange NP) and the northern half of Botswana.
Our flight from Paris was to Victoria Falls with Ethiopian Airlines, with a layover in Addis Ababa. We rented a 4x4 from Bushlore in Kasane, complete with two rooftop tents since there are four of us on this adventure. Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4 and, most importantly, gave us a rundown of the vehicle and its equipment. Pay close attention to what they tell you—it could be crucial if something goes wrong, as it did for us during the trip.
Our Itinerary
We arrived on June 12th at noon. At Victoria Falls Airport, we got our double-entry visa right away—I’d already pre-booked it online on the site https://www.evisa.gov.zw/.
Since our vehicle was in Botswana, we had to cross the border from Victoria Falls into Botswana for the first time.
The next morning, Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4. After completing the formalities, we headed toward Zimbabwe and the town of Victoria Falls.
We woke up early the next morning to be at Victoria Falls at sunrise. The scenery was stunning, but since it was the start of the dry season, the Zambezi was still high, so the falls had a strong flow. This made it hard to fully appreciate their beauty.
In the early afternoon, we left for Hwange NP, where we stayed for 4 days. Two days at Gwango campsite near Dete, followed by two days at Robins Camp. We expected to see more animals at Robins, but that wasn’t the case. In Hwange, we didn’t spot any predators, but we did see plenty of mammals (buffalo, elephants, giraffes, zebras, and antelopes).
After a few days in Zimbabwe, we crossed back into Botswana at Pandamatenga. We stopped at Nata Lodge for a good night’s rest—driving on the dirt roads is exhausting.
We left Nata and headed toward Nxai Pan. The road was sandy but manageable. We made a small detour to admire some beautiful baobabs at "Baines Baobabs." Then we continued to our campsite, Nxai Pan South Camp. Keep in mind that many campsites in Botswana aren’t fenced (except for the shower/toilet areas), so animals can roam freely within the camp. Take precautions, especially after dark.
After our stop in Nxai Pan, we headed to Maun. We decided to break our journey in Maun before heading to Moremi and the Okavango Delta for three reasons: first, we needed to stock up on supplies and fuel for the next 5 days; second, our fridge had broken (luckily, Bushlore has a branch in Maun); and third, the drive from Nxai to our camp in Xakanaxa in the delta would’ve taken too long. I always avoid driving after dark.
We arrived at our Xakanaxa camp on June 21st in the early afternoon. Not wanting to waste time, we booked a boat ride on the Okavango Delta, leaving at 4:00 PM for a 2-hour sunset cruise. For those interested, to the right of the Xakanaxa X1 site, there’s a sign for boat rides. The organizer is very professional and offers prices that are nothing like those of the lodges.
It was a beautiful ride through the delta with a stunning sunset. Being on a boat is much more relaxing than driving on the dirt roads. That didn’t stop us from doing self-drive safaris the next morning and late afternoon, though.
Then came the time to leave the delta and head toward Savuti, a much drier region. And that’s when the toughest part of our trip began. First, we decided to go up via Khwai. The rainy season was over, but the area was still marshy. We had to cross a few small water patches, testing the depth to make sure we could get through. Luckily, a sign on the road pointed us toward a drier route. We reached Khwai without any issues, but then we made a major mistake. Instead of taking the main track toward Mababe Gate to reach Savuti Camp, we took a straight path north and then a right turn to get to our camp. Bad call—we got stuck in the sand, with one rear wheel buried halfway and a front wheel off the ground. We were genuinely scared we wouldn’t get out, especially since we were on a deserted track, 20 kilometers from our destination, with night falling in two hours. This is where paying attention to the vehicle instructions really paid off—we had to use the jack to get out of the mess. The result: we arrived at Savuti campsite just before dark (Distance: 146.3 km, Duration: 9 hours, 56 minutes, and 3 seconds, Average speed: 14.7 km/h, tracked with Osmand). At reception, the staff couldn’t understand how we’d gotten there—we hadn’t passed through any of Savuti’s reserve entry gates.
The next morning, no one felt like driving, so we did a game drive with a guide. I don’t know if it was some kind of reward, but the outing was amazing. We saw three lions and, best of all, a pack of African wild dogs that we had time to admire and photograph. The next day, we did a short self-drive and found one of the lions from the day before drinking at a waterhole. That was the end of our Savuti adventure.
Now we’re heading to Kasane. We returned our vehicle and settled in for our last two nights there. The next morning, since we no longer had a car, we decided to do one last early-morning game drive in Chobe NP. It turned out great—we followed two brother lions and saw plenty of other mammals. The only downside of Chobe is the number of tourists, which was a change from the other parks we’d visited. That said, we’re tourists too, so...
In the evening, we took one last boat ride on the Chobe River to end on a high note with a beautiful sunset.
After a good night’s sleep and plenty of wonderful memories, landscapes, animals, and emotions, it was time to leave. We left early in the morning with the same taxi company as before to cross the border into Zimbabwe one last time and head to the airport, where we took off to return to France.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context
This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda.
Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda
Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs.
This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast.
Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday.
We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠
We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁
We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes.
Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing.
Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop.
On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Bonjour,
De retour sur le forum - et première rédaction d'un espèce de carnet de retour de notre 4ème voyage en Indo.
Contexte : une trentaine de jours, en scooter et en duo, sur Florès (et une petite incursion dans l'archipel de Solor, plus précisément à Lembata (chut, faut pas trop en parler !!!), qui donne envie d'en faire beaucoup plus là bas malgré les infrastructures sporadiques), en partie dans des destinations déjà bien connues du forum (la classique Ruteng / Bajawa / Riung / Moni voir baie de Maumere) ... et qui ne parlera pas du PN de Komodo ou de Wae Rebo, puisque nous n'y sommes pas allés 🏴☠️.
Texte en anglais (issu d'une autre plateforme). Sans nul doute, des traducteurs intelligents ou pas marcheront à merveille en cas d'anglophobie 🤪.
Disponible à toute fin utile pour des détails ou infos.
Equippement : Yam' Nmax 155 ; 2x saccoches cavalières (25L) + sac de selle (30L) + saccoche tunnel (15L pour le matos photo) ; casques et vêtements d'enduro amenés depuis la France.
Itinéraire : boucle depuis Labuan bajo jusqu'à Pulau Lembata ; juillet-août 2026
Road conditions graded from A (excellent) to D (very bad, at least for a Scooter… a CRF/KLX or even honda ADV would do better on that)
D1 : Labuan Bajo – Reok via Ranggoe, Rego & Tagol (130km ; 5hrs). Section LBajo – Rego (90 km ; B) is quite good tarmac, despite a lot of elevation with many small valleys and passes. Rego – Tagol (10km ; D) is a stone road (not gravel), some ascents & very poor condition ; necessary to lower tyre pressure. Tagol – Reok port (22km, quality depends considerably from D to B). Reok port – Towncenter : B. Night @Iffah Homestay (100k for fan room, mandi attached, no breakfast), simple but clean. Notes : path to danau Sano Limbung was closed ; access to Tiwu Pai & Wae Kuli (waterfalls) not permitted in july 2026.
D2 : Reok – Riung via Pota (105km ; 3h-3h30). The road is very narrow in some part, thanks to the uncut bushes (lowering visibility hence extra caution as animals/people can suddenly appear in a turn…) but generally good condition except many eroded sections and some unpaved ones. Grade C/B. 2 nights @Mentos (285k for AC room)
D3 : Boat tour in Riung (booked directly with a captain, 800k for two for private boat incl. lunch and NP fees) + sunset from Watu Mitong Riung (should not be missed).
D4 : Riung – Muku Saki via Mbay (around 100km ; 3h30). Quality varies from A in the vicinity of Mbay to eroded sections (C) in secluded places. Night @Sao Paolo Homestay (250k for fan room with mandi, maybe overpriced but nice house and great food). Note : if you happen to pass by Mbay on Saturday, the market is well worth a stop (cheapest Ikat on the trip : you’ll be asked normal prices providing you’re OK in Bahasa…)
D5 : Muku Saki – Tanjung Kajuwulu (near Ndete) (90km, 3h). Many patholes, eroded (C). Night at Déjà Vu Homestay (220k for a matress on the floor & outside mandi/toilets ; I woud define this as a tourist trap – the quote we had for food was double priced too…)
D6 : Tanjung Kajuwulu – Waiterang (east of Maumere, 55km , 1h30). Pathholes till maumere, then All good (TransFlores), C/A. Night at Sunset Cottage (new concrete room, very serene place ; 270k for AC with bathroom ; much prefered Sunset over Lena House (more customers, more built up).
D7 : Waiterang – Larantuka via Boru and Eputobi (TransFlores ; grade A ; 115km / 2h40). Particularly liked the drink stalls (marked as Rest Area Eputobi) and the out of order aquatic park just before Larantuka (obyej wisata waiplatin). Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay, which is not advertising itself as Larantuka Beach Homestay as some contributor signals here and on goole maps review. Best breakfast of the trip (Cumi Cumi !!!) ; 275k for AC room with bathroom.
D8 : Local Boat (Kapal Kayu) from the main port to Lembata (Lewoleba). Departure 8am ; price 60k/head + 50k for the bike. Stop enroute on Adonara (where we did not stop due to fights between communities). Night @Elmany Homestay (275k for AC room with bathroom, fan room with shared bathroom also available). Whole afternoon at Pantai Hadakewa, fantastic place (good snorkeling, great views of Ile Api aka Gn Lewotolo). Road condition : A (did not expect the TransLembata to be that good…).
D9 : Loop around Ile Api (50km, 2hrs), anticlockwise. Stops enroute at Situs Tulang Paus (whale squeletton), pantai Jotona, pantai Wena (we expected to snorkel from there, but wind was very strong that day), situs Watu Nale, Selat Sonia. The western coast is far less interesting. Road conditions : bad (C) on the eastern side (up to Riangbeda), good (B/A) afterwards. Night @Elmany Homestay.
D10 : Lewoleba – Lamalera via the western and south coast (70km, 2h30). Good road (B) for roughly the first 55km (up to Tapobali), then eroded track for the last 15km (in some parts steep and dangerous) up to Lamalera (D/C). Notes : 1/ Kuma resort denied us the entry for some drink ; 2/Pantai Waijarang « complex » is abandonned but closed with fences ; you can still sneak in ; 3/ some reports advise to skip Bukit Cinta (foreigner entry fee) for Bukit Doa Watomiten (stations of the cross) ; well Bukit Cinta has also been abandonned (well spent money…sic) but remains opened with structures falling (quickly) appart. Night @Lamalera Inn (200k per head including meals ; very basic fan room + attached mandi). Planned 2 nights, spent only one, as it’s the only tenant I had difficulties with (only interested in money, initially stated crazy prices, starts loud music at 6am … and drinking moke at 8am…)
D11 : Trip to Wulandoni for the Barter Market (Saturday only). Bad road (C) along the coast. Had to report at the Kantor upon arrival, which quite surprisingly asked 100k per person (foreigner) to go inside the (outside) market. Other « local » tourists (a group from Jakarta) were not asked to pay. Well, since a market is a public space and not a zoo, we refused payment and enjoyed the activity from the kopi stall next to it. Returned then to Lamalera for the catches of the day, then to Lewoleba via the mountain road (45km, 2 hours). First 10km to Puor is in very bad condition and uphill (D/C). The remaining is on a newly constructed road (A). Note : Air Panas Sabutobo is abandonned and falling apart (again…) but there are still some water pipes along the river that you can enjoy (depending how lucky you are, just with the forest sounds as companion). Night @Elmany Homestay
D12 : Chill day alond the northern coast (Batu Payung, Pantai Hadakewa with lot of snorkeling, drove till Wailolong and backtracked to Pantai Lewolein for more snorkeling (nice canyons there !) and another fantastic sunset over Ile Api (see GMaps pictures)). Night @Elmany Homestay
D13 : Monday weekly market at Pada, southwest of Lewoleba. Renowned but honnestly dont plan any itinerary specifically for it, just an ordinary Kampung weekly market. Returned to Larantuka and Flores with the 12pm local boat (the same boat that leaves from Larantuka at 8am). Same prices as the first leg. Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay
D14 : Larantuka – Waiterang along the northern coast (100km, 3h) via Pantai Kawaliwu, Tewuk Lewokluok (trail is easy to find, very nice snorkelling in a lagoon), Pantai Lato (to my opinion the most beautiful beach on Flores and you’ll be the only visitor, as opposed to Pantai Koka) and Pantai Hia, until rejoining the TransFlores near Nebe. Grade C on the costal eroded road / track. 3 nights @Lena Guesthouse (booked ahead as it fills up quickly, but we prefered its neighbour Sunset Beach Guesthouse)
D15 : Snorkeling trip organised by Lena Guesthouse (200k per head excluding NP fees and lunch)). The drop-off near Pulau Babi is a very nice spot.
D16 : scooter day trip around the Egon Range (too lazy to hike it…), through nice Sikka villages (route : Watublapi, Umauta, Bola, pantai Doreng, Nakatoli, foot of Gn Egon, Air panas Blidit). The track from Natakoli to the foot of Gn Egon is very steep, damaged and wet (with moss) ; I would recommend not to attempt that in case of bad weather.
D17 : Waiterang – Moni (130km, 3h30, transflores grade A/B) via Pantai Koka (refused to pay the mafia entry fee…) and Jopu (some rumah Adat Lio). Stopped at Museum Bikon Blewut, south of Maumere. Very nice artefacts (especially wooden statues from Papuan, great ikat collection) although very disorganized and sadly non-visited (hence masterpieces fall into oblivion). 2 Nights @Liahz Lodge (150k for fan room, basic bathroom… but right next to Air Panas Liasembe (free, no closing time) !!!).
D18 : Sunrise from Kelimutu with a nice weather (stayed until 8.30am). I don’t know if the sunrise is really worth it (lot of people ascending and watching the sunrise – a lot but nothing compared to e.g. Gn Bromo), nearly everyone going down around 7am, then there is virtually nobody. Trip (20km one way, good road B) to Kampung Adat Nggela (Lio). Although the village is habited and mostly out of the beaten path, I have mixed fillings due to the fact that most ladies (some are pushy) try to sell you (bad) pieces of ikat.
D19 : Moni – Ende via Detusoko paddy fields, Kampung Adat Saga (Lio) and Puncak Ndona ; 75km 2h30. We really liked Saga (nice setting on the mountain, friendly villagers, no selling, mix between traditional and more modern houses in that lively village). Sunset from Bukit Raja, on the peninsula with a 360 view on Gn Iya, Gn Meja Kota Ende and the mountains behind. Note : at the end of the road (search for Gunung Meja Tourist Info Center), there is a (sand) track leading to the path. 1/ only intend the track if you have off road driving experience ; 2/ dont trust the walking time stated by Maps.me. Took us 45mins on a steady pace to reach the summit. Night @Hoja Homestay, 300k for a comfortable AC room with bathroom.
D20 : Ende – Bajawa, via Air Panas Mengeruda ; grade A, 120km, 3 hours. Note : don’t plan to short in Mengeruda (Soa), very easy to spend a half day there, especially if playing with local kids. Stay @Cinnamon GH, 250k for double with fan and hot shower (cheaper options with shared hot shower availlable).
D21 : First day in Bajawa : Watu Nari Wowo (Avatar Hill, sic…), Kampung Adat Ngada Tololela & Gurusina (very very friendly people, complementary views of Gn Inerie & Wolo Deru). Sunset from Puncak Manulalu (well… Heaven’s door Bar & Restaurant)
D22 : Second day in Bajawa : Kampung Adat Ngio (hardly visited, best view on Gn Inerie), Air Panas Malanage, Kampung Adat Bena (the most visited Ngada village (after Bela ?) in the area, we went there at the end of the afternoon to avoid tours, early morning would be fine too), and Gunung Wolobobo for a terrific sunset
D23 : returned to Gunung Wolobobo for sunrise with Gn Ebulobo in the distance (search for a track on the eastern slope, near the communication antenna). You can circuit the rim to the usual viewpoint (westside, sunset spot), the path is easy to find. Then took again the road to Aimere, visiting Kampung Adat Belaraghi enroute (the setting is maybe less rewarding than all the previous villages). 56km ; 1h30. The road to Belaraghi is fine, except the final part.
D24 : Aimere – Ruteng (105km, 3h30). Nice detour by the paddy fields of Wodo (southwest of Golo Loni) of Sunset from Golo Curu (nice encounters with locals). Night @Tange GH, 130k for room with outside (private) bathroom, no breakfast.
D25 : Surroundings of Ruteng (paddy fields north and east of ruteng ; Maps.me has funny tracks starting from Kenda), and the rather pleasant city itself (pasar, churches, lapangan). We finally skipped Liang Bua.
D26 : Ruteng - Labuan Bajo (130km, 3h30). No visits of the waterfalls close to the TransFlores (entry fee (with bule prices) + mandatory guide etc…). Sunset from Bukit Hercadi with very few locals (Bukit Sylvia & Bukit Amelia, just south, were packed). 2 nights @Wellamas Homestay, away from the harbour and its advantages/disadvantages. 230k for comfortable AC room with hot shower.
D27 : New road to Golo Mori Convention Center (another big money well spent…), with nice views on the strait separating Flores from Pulau Rinca. Some empty beaches (e.g. Pantai Pasir Pajang ; we were there on a weekday perhaps frequented by people from LBajo only). 30km (40 mins) one way, perhaps the fastest road of Flores…
D28 : Morning on the peninsula north of Labuan Bajo before taking a flight to Jakarta in the afternoon. On Google maps, the asphalt road only goes to Teras Langit ; it now (august 2026) continues to Puncak Basok and is still in progress towards the eastern part of the peninsula. On the way back, two other nice Bukit where you can enjoy nice views on the bay (and the resorts…) : Bukit Lontar & Bukit Beta. Note : we only found one public (and nice and quiet) beach in the area ; tagged as Sunset Point Beach on Gmaps. All the rest was closed by fences ; they are privately owned (although the Indonesian consitution grants the coastline as public space).
We're a family of five: one dad, one mom, and three kids aged 10, 15, and 18.
Before diving into each stop in more detail, here are a few general thoughts:
We wanted to sample a bit of everything Japan has to offer in terms of landscapes, accommodation, and transport. We were after walks, temples, restaurants, shopping, and some downtime—but no "all-inclusive experiences" or museums for this first visit.
Three medium-sized (60x42x25) canvas suitcases, plus a duffel bag and a few small backpacks. 23 kg in the hold on the way out, 60 kg on the way back. 36 kg of shopping, without even trying. I think this is the maximum suitcase size if you don’t want to stress on the Shinkansen: they fit easily in the overhead racks.
Round-trip with Cathay Pacific, layover in Hong Kong: no need to collect luggage in Hong Kong—we checked it in at departure and picked it up in Tokyo, and the same on the way back (checked in Osaka, picked up at our final destination). This let us explore Hong Kong without worrying about our bags. Food and entertainment were pretty good—meals included a little Häagen-Dazs on each flight, and the entertainment had way more Asian cinema than you’d find on a Western airline, which was a nice way to see how much weight Western culture carries in Asia.
The original plan was to fly directly from Ishigaki to Hong Kong, but due to Typhoon Dolphin, we had to cancel the Ishigaki leg. Cathay didn’t bat an eye about swapping the Ishigaki-HK flight for an Osaka-HK one, even though it was twice as long.
We were a bit too attached to the idea of ending the trip with some beach time and replaced Ishigaki with Shirahama. It was a mistake—we should’ve visited Hiroshima or spent a little more time in Tokyo instead.
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
Hello and welcome aboard this new travel journal!
We’re heading off to Ireland together—a country I’ve wanted to explore for a very long time.
The moment has finally arrived.
We’ll be traveling as a family—my wife, my husband, and our 7-year-old daughter.
Here’s our itinerary:
24/07: Flight from Marseille to Dublin, overnight in Dublin
25/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
26/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
27/07: Pick up rental car, drive to Dingle, overnight near Tralee on the peninsula
28/07: Visit the Ring of Kerry
29/07: Adare, Bunratty Castle, Galway, overnight in Outheragh, near Galway
30/07: Cliffs of Moher, overnight in Outheragh
31/07: Connemara, overnight in Outheragh
01/08: Drive to Sligo via Westport and Downpatrick Head, overnight in Sligo
02/08: Slieve League, Silver Strand Beach, Glencolmcille, overnight in Sligo
03/08: Drive to Derry via Glenveagh National Park, overnight in Derry
04/08: Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Portrush, Derry, overnight in Derry
05/08: Drive to Belfast, visit Belfast, overnight in Lisburn (Belfast suburbs)
06/08: Game of Thrones filming locations: Dark Hedges, Carrick-a-Rede, Ballintoy, etc., overnight in Lisburn
07/08: Drive to the Wicklow Mountains, visit Wicklow Mountains National Park, overnight in Blessington
08/08: Drive back to Dublin and return to Marseille.
Cost breakdown:
Flights:
Outbound flights with KLM via Amsterdam for 3: 175 € + 40,000 Flying Blue miles (so essentially a free ticket)
Return flight with Aer Lingus for 3: 489 €
Rental car:
10 days booked with Enterprise via Carigami: 443 € including zero-excess insurance.
Accommodation:
Dublin: 3 nights at Maldron Hotel New Cross: 394 €
Tralee: 2 nights in a caravan (Ocean Trail Oasis): 292 €
Outheragh: 3 nights Airbnb, family room with private bathroom: 430 €
Sligo: 2 nights at Clayton Hotel: 456 €
Derry: 2 nights at Belfray Inn: 255 €
Lisburn: 2 nights at Temple Golf Club: 232 €
Blessington: 1 night at Baltyboys Lodges B&B: 158 €
That brings our total to 3,325 € for three.
On the ground, visits, fuel, and food cost around 2,500 €.
So this was quite an expensive trip.
A few price examples:
1 liter of unleaded fuel: 1.89 €
3-day pass in Dublin: 18 €
1 scoop of ice cream: 5 to 6.5 €
Castle visit: 15 € per person
A coffee: 3-4 €
A glass of wine at a restaurant: 8-10 €
A half-pint of Guinness: 7-12 €
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of our adventure in Ireland:
Our decision is our decision. And it’s firm and final. Next winter, our plane will spread its great wings toward the island of Ceylon! "Wait a minute... Ceylon... Ceylon... that name rings a bell, but I can’t quite place it on the globe Grandma gave me for Christmas! Ceylon... Oh right, I’ve got it: Ceylon is the name of my tea!" Exactly. But the name on your pretty tea box is also the one used until 1972 for this island nation, a speck on the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent: Sri Lanka!
For this new adventure, I’m exceptionally leaving my Flo behind, cowardly replaced by a double dose of testosterone. To write the book of this journey with me, I’m bringing along my brother, who’s used to this kind of thing, and... a guest star: My model of resilience. My dad! All aboard! Or rather, all aboard our tuk-tuk! Yes, you read that right: A real tuk-tuk, a little colorful rolling box that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea? Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads overlooking the vastness of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of vehicle. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that allow foreigners to rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our two-square-meter rolling box. Plus, adopting this mode of transport is a surefire way to connect directly with the locals, who’ll surely be curious to see a foreigner driving their iconic vehicle. Not to mention the... let’s say... spicy anecdotes it might generate. I mean, heading into a subtropical zone with my jet-black dad and his unpredictable digestive flora while deliberately choosing the tuk-tuk as our *only* means of transport? That’s the winning combo for an unforgettable adventure! "More seriously, Dad, Sullivan, I’m already loving the idea of living this adventure together, the three of us—brothers and father..."
So, does the intro to this new adventure get your salivary glands going? Yes? Too bad. Because unfortunately, the program handed out by the lady at the entrance has been slightly... let’s say *crumpled*. Some might even say "scrunched up and nearly tossed in the trash." First, six days ago, as the countdown echoed in us like a call to adventure, Cyclone Ditwah grabbed Sri Lanka, played with it like a rag doll, and left it battered on the ground. The toll is devastating: over a thousand dead, thousands of homes wiped out by relentless rains, roads and railways swallowed by massive mudslides. A country wounded once again, after the civil war, the 2004 tsunami, and the post-Covid economic crisis.
But as if this weather disaster wasn’t enough to shake our unbreakable adventurer spirit, fate decided to mess with us further by cutting our trio down to two. The victim? My brother, violently turned away because of a simple date on his passport that didn’t match the border officials’ expectations. Return to sender!
So now it’s just the two of us allowed to board the Qatar Airways Airbus A380 for this trip. If he were here, Denis Brognart would say, "And in the end, only one remains!" Except I know you’ll be with us, following our adventures! Right?
Hello everyone, I’m happy to welcome you to this new travel journal.
We’re heading to Costa Rica together—a Central American destination that dreams are made of for many French travelers and attracts crowds from France.
It was the country’s wild nature and safety that convinced us to go, since we’re traveling with our 7-year-old little one.
We didn’t have much vacation time in February 2026 (only 12 days), so we optimized as much as possible.
Here’s the itinerary:
Wednesday, February 11: Flight from Marseille to San Jose via Paris and Atlanta
Thursday, February 12: Pick up the car, drive to Poas Volcano, visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens
Friday, February 13: Poas Volcano and drive to Manuel Antonio
Saturday, February 14: Manuel Antonio National Park
Sunday, February 15: Nauyaca Waterfall and Playa Linda
Monday, February 16: Drive to Monte Verde and Santa Elena Reserve
Tuesday, February 17: El Tigre Waterfall Reserve and Treetopia Park
Wednesday, February 18: Monte Verde Reserve with a guide and drive to La Fortuna
Thursday, February 19: Sloth guided tour, Observatory Lodge Park
Friday, February 20: Arenal Volcano National Park, Termalistas del Arenal hot springs, and night tour
Saturday, February 21: Return to San Jose, flight to Paris via Atlanta
Sunday, February 22: Arrival in Paris and flight to Marseille.
That gives us a solid 9 days in the country.
Budget breakdown:
Costa Rica is an expensive country, but no more so than France. However, almost all hikes and waterfalls are paid entry, which can really add up.
For meals, sodas (6–10 €) are cheaper than restaurants (10–20 € per dish).
Flights:
We chose Delta Airlines for the price: Marseille to San Jose was 740 € per person (modifiable, with checked baggage and seat selection included).
Other direct flights from Europe were priced between 1200 € and 1600 € with more restrictive conditions.
That’s 2220 € for the family.
Accommodations:
Alajuela, first night: 139 € (1 night) at Rodeo Estancia Boutique Hotel, with personalized airport pickup, transfer to the hotel, and a briefing from Vert Costa Rica agency the next day.
Poas: 66 € (1 night) at Cabañas Tierra Fértil (entire apartment).
Manuel Antonio: 394 € (3 nights) at La Palapa Ecolodge (hotel in the jungle).
Monte Verde: Chalet Aloha Monteverde Cloud Forest (2 bedrooms): 125 € (2 nights).
La Fortuna: Arenal Dream Garden (1 bedroom): 217 € (3 nights).
Total: 941 €.
Car rental:
I went through Vert Costa Rica agency (Vincent is a French expat who set up the agency in Costa Rica and makes great YouTube videos with useful tips).
I rented a 4x4 that was delivered to the hotel the day after arrival and returned at the airport before the flight. The total was 772 €, including full insurance (zero deductible), a child seat, and a phone with a Costa Rican SIM and WhatsApp. The rental company was Poas Rent a Car. The vehicle was well-maintained—no complaints.
Gas: 100 € for the whole trip (3 fill-ups).
Activities:
To get discounts, I bought the pass offered by Vincent, which paid for itself after just one activity. It cost me 30 € (promo since I rented the car through him).
Prices are for 3 people. I’ve added stars to rate them:
La Paz Waterfall Gardens ****: 112 €
Poas Volcano National Park *: 33 €
Manuel Antonio National Park ****: 35 €
Nauyaca Waterfall ***: 25 €
Santa Elena Reserve **: 45 €
El Tigre Waterfall Reserve ****: 141 € (with meal)
Treetopia (ziplining, suspension bridges) **: 250 €
Guided tour of Monte Verde Reserve ***: 113 €
Sloth guided tour (with breakfast) ***: 115 €
Arenal Observatory Lodge (with meal) ****: 102 €
Arenal Volcano National Park *: 34 €
Termalistas del Arenal ****: 20 €
Night tour ***: 116 €
Total: 1171 €.
Meals: 600 €
My favorite restaurants:
Poas: Food court Mercaditas in Fraijanes
Manuel Antonio (near La Palapa): La Langosta and also El Patio
Near Nauyaca Waterfall: Ricar2 el Avión
Between Manuel Antonio and Monte Verde: Soda D’Calle
Santa Elena: HG’s Food
Guadalupe (between Monte Verde and La Fortuna): Soda Río Piedras
Arenal Observatory Lodge restaurant
Arenal Oasis Ecolodge restaurant
Other expenses: 300 € (groceries for breakfast, drinks, ice cream, souvenirs, etc.)
Total overall: 6065 € (about 2020 € per person).
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of this beautiful trip.
Les ronds-points sont particulièrement intéressants puisqu'on y retrouve des emblèmes de la culture turkmène, soit le chien, soit un tapis, soit le cheval Ahal Teke soit des symboles musulmans, même si la présence d'artefacts islamiques est assez réduite.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
A little sneak peek?
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
The karst site:
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
