Bonjour tout le monde!
Nous partons en couple en Afrique du Sud du 06 octobre au 06 novembre 2015.
Ce n'est pas notre premier grand voyage mais bien la première fois que nous louons une voiture de location durant tout un séjour.
Pas trop dur la conduite à gauche? Je redoute un peu (surtout en quittant Jo'bourg après 14h de vol 😕).
Voici notre itinéraire durant ces 32 journées. On sait qu'il est conséquent, vous semble-t-il réalisable? Des choses vous paraissent peu intéressantes, d'autres que nous aurions oubliées?
Ma 6 : Jo’bourg -> 4h ->Sabie : nuit à Sabie
Me 7 : Sabie aventure : nuit à Sabie
Je 8 : Sabie aventure et environs (Mac Mac Pool, Pilming’rest, Graskop : nuit à ? (Voir sur place)
Ve 9 : Panorama Road (Canyon) -> Echo Caves (grottes) (?) : courses et nuit à Phalaborwa
Sa 10 : Phalaborwa -> Safari -> Balule Camp (Kruger) : nuit à Balule Camp
Di 11 : Balule Camp -> Safari dans le parc : nuit à Balule Cam
Lu 12 : Balule Camp -> Safari -> Skukuza Camp : nuit à Skukuza Camp
Ma 13 : Skukuza (activité matinale ?) -> Hazyview et orphelinat éléphants ou aventure (?): nuit à Hazyview
Me 14 : Hazyview -> Kruger (Safari) -> Crocodile Camp : nuit à Crocodile Camp
wha quel détail !
Pour ma part c'est un planning prévu de 23jours avec une location de voiture entre johannesbourg et le cap. J'imagine donc que le tiens est tout à fait faisable.
En revanche pour la conduite à gauche, je suis plus expérimenté. C'est vrai que c'est pas simple surtout au départ (et évidemment quelles fois en sortie de parking, dans les virages...). Mais si tu restes vigilent et prudent, ça va le faire.
Tu peux viser la location d'un véhicule automatique, ça soulage grandement en ville :-)
Merci, ce me rassure déjà un peu. C'est difficile d'évaluer le temps et les distances.
La voiture est déjà louée, c'est une petite compacte manuelle... On fera avec 🙂 !
Personnellement, j'enlèverais une nuit à St Lucia.
Je supprimerais le séjour à Eshowe Ulundi ou alors pour les fans j'irais à Uqweqwe voir la tombe de Napoléon IV...
Gagner une journée ce serait pour profiter du Golden Gate NP.
Voir si tant qu'à être à Graff Reinet je ne tenterais par le Camdeboo NP.
Voilà une première impression...mais quel beau trajet ! En plus en prenant le soin de rester quelques jours sur des étapes. Je l'ai quasiment fait mais en plusieurs fois...
Ma 20 : Sainte Lucia et lac -> 1 h -> Réserve Hluhluwe -> 2h -> Ulundi ou Eshowe : nuit à Ulundi ou Eshowe
Me 21 : Ulundi ou Eshowe (visite du village ?)-> 3h30 ou 4h15 -> Bergville et environs : nuit à Bergville ou environs
Je supprimerais le séjour à Eshowe Ulundi ou alors pour les fans j'irais à Uqweqwe voir la tombe de Napoléon IV...
De ce que je comprends du projet présenté, l'idée est de démarrer tôt le matin de St-Lucia, de visiter le parc dans la journée, de ressortir en fin de journée et de trouver rapidement un coin où dormir avant la tombée de la nuit. Difficile donc de zapper cette étape.
En ce qui me concerne par contre (j'ai la même idée de trajet mais en août) je n'arrive pas à trouver de camping dans ce coin (je vais en effet tâcher de camper un maximum lors mon voyage, sauf s'il gèle dur la nuit ! 😐 ). Il y a bien un backpackers à Eshowe mais comme je pensais plutôt passer par Melmoth et la R68 puis le R602 jusqu'à Ladysmith avant d'arriver à Bergville, ce serait un détour. A moins que la ville vaille vraiment la peine (je parle d'Eshowe !).
En ce qui concerne le trajet pour aller jusqu'à Bergville, que conseillez-vous ? Serait-il intéressant de trouver de petites routes qui couperait le détour qu'oblige à faire mon trajet par les R68 et R602 et qui permettrait de profiter du paysage ?
En voyage je ne sais pas toujours où je suis, mais je ne suis jamais perdue...
En fait, je zapperais totalement Eshowe, Ulundi et même Bergville.
J'essaierais de rester le plus tard possible dans le Hlhluwe Umfolozi en logeant le soir soit au restcamp d'Umfolozi soit juste à côté puis je filerais vers le Drak avec comme étape possible un stop du côté d'Estcourt ou Moï River (midlands meanders) puis le NP.
Hluhluwe, Eshowe, Greytown Moï River Estcourt. Avec le bout de N pour se rapprocher d'Eshowe.
par ce chemin c'est moins de 5 heures entre Hlhluwe et Moïriver, en traversant le KZN.
Bonjour,
J'essaierais de rester le plus tard possible dans le Hlhluwe Umfolozi en logeant le soir soit au restcamp d'Umfolozi soit juste à côté puis je filerais vers le Drak...
En fait, en ce qui me concerne, tout le problème est là ! 😕
J'aimerais bien rester le plus tard possible dans le parc en logeant idéalement au Mpila. Mais cela supposerait que je fasse dès maintenant les réservations, ce qui est difficile étant donné que je ne sais pas encore combien de temps je resterai dans la région de St-Lucia et combien de temps je consacrerai au parc Hluhluwe Umfolozi. Et j'aimerais bien me laisser une certaine flexibilité.
Ce que j'aurais voulu en fait, c'est trouver quelque chose, comme tu le dis, "juste à côté" de la sortie du parc (idéalement un camping mais je suis ouverte à d'autres options). Mais je ne trouve pas. D'où ces choix de Ulundi ou Melmoth (ou Eshowe encore plus loin) qui correspondent, en fait, à ce que je trouve de plus proche de la sortie.
Je retiens également que ta recommandation est de "filer" le plus vite possible au NP, sans passer par le "chemin des écoliers". J'en conclus que la région pour toi n'a pas le potentiel qui mériterait que l'on s'y attarde.
Merci encore à toi.
En voyage je ne sais pas toujours où je suis, mais je ne suis jamais perdue...
Le parcours est superbe. J'enlèverais seulement une nuit à Hermanus pour faire étape à Franschoek. Que l'on soit amateur de vin ou non, c'est une jolie étape avec d'excellentes adresses.
Pour le Lesotho, regardez Malealea, une belle étape pas trop compliquée d'accès, sur la route qui traverse le pays et qui constitue une très bonne base pour partir en rando à pied/cheval pour quelques jours. Sinon l'autre point de chute classique est Semonkong, connu pour ses chutes mais aussi plus compliqué d'accès.
Avez-vous envisagé la réserve privée pour une ou deux nuits ?
Merci à tous pour vos suggestions, j'en prends bonne note 😉 !
On essayera de faire une journée supplémentaire au Golden Gate NP.
Franschoek à l'air pas mal mais j'ai bien peur qu'il faille deux jours à Hermanus si on veut être certain de voir les baleines et faire l'activité requin non? Au fait faut-il réserver à l'avance pour cela?
Et merci pour le Lesotho, je vais m'y attardez un peu sur le pays, je n'y connais encore rien.
Je ne vois pas de quoi vous parlez concernant la réserve privée.. quelle réserve?
Concernant Hermanus, l'activité requins prend une bonne demi-journée. Une agence que je conseille qui vous remboursera intégralement en cas de no-show et qui propose des tarifs intéressants : http://www.sharkcagediving.net/
Ensuite pour les baleines, tout dépend de votre intérêt car il s'agit simplement d'arriver à Hermanus et de trouver un spot sur les falaises et d'attendre.... On peut donc aussi bien y rester une heure ou une journée.
Si les baleines ne s'approchent pas des falaises d'Hermanus, une croisière peut être une bonne idée (bien que pas donné). elles durent 2 h et peuvent être réservées sur place.
En bref avec 2 jours pleins, vous êtes larges. Planifiez les requins pour le premier jour afin de garder un jour de report en cas de mauvais temps (cause d'annulation fréquente).
Les réserves privées autour du Kruger sont des concessions privées avec des lodges. Généralement elles proposent des formules tout inclus avec logement (confortable), repas et deux game drives en jeep (3-4h) avec ranger et tracker. C'est une autre manière d'aborder le safari qui peut être complémentaire d'une visite en selfdrive des parcs (augmente vos chances de voir des fauves). Il existe des réserves de ce type à tous les prix mais elles commencent à 150 euros la journée par tête. Un bon exemple : http://www.elephantplains.co.za/
mais j'ai bien peur qu'il faille deux jours à Hermanus si on veut être certain de voir les baleines et faire l'activité requin non? Au fait faut-il réserver à l'avance pour cela?
Oui ! ne serait-ce que pour les aléas météo (on ne sort pas tous les jours pour les requins, cela dépend des courants, du vent, de la houle).
On doit réserver. Prendre leurs coordonnées pour une réservation par téléphone sur place ?
Les RP. Il y a les parcs nationaux et les réserves privées qui sont des espaces privés. Les meilleures sont en bordure directe du Krüger, dans le Maputaland, dans Addo, au Swaziland.
Le choix se fait en fonction de ses attentes et de son porte monnaie.
Le choix d'une Rp se fait selon ses attentes et son budget (les prix sont très variables) mais aussi en fonction de sa taille !
5000 Ha par exemple, avec des lions, il y a forcément nourrissage...c'est donc plus un zoo amélioré qu'un espace réellment naturel.
Quelques exemples sur ce que je raconte sur mon premier carnet.
Non pas de réserves privées nous concernant. Les prix sont trop élevés pour nous, nous allons nous concentrer sur le Kruger avec pas mal de nuits en tente.
J'avais repéré le parc Tembe et la région aux alentours nous tentait bien (Kosi Bay surtout!) mais elle à l'air difficile à atteindre avec une simple voiture comme celle que nous louerons non ?
En fait on hésite à tenter cette zone et enlever 2 jours à St-Lucia, cela en vaudrait la peine vous pensez ? En sachant qu'on veut pas être trop serré niveau temps non plus..
Merci pour le site Shark Diving. Nous prévoirons donc 2 jours pour Hermanus!
Je réfléchis à un prochain voyage Lesotho / Swaziland / Kruger, je suis donc avec intérêt cette discussion et m'y incruste 😊 .
Pour moi pas d'urgence, le voyage serait prévu soit en août / septembre 2016 soit en mars / avril 2017 😊. (entre temps, nous aurons fait un petit tour en Namibie en avril 2015 🙂). Mais je commence tout doucement à m'intéresser à ces 3 pays.
Sur 15 jours, j'avais dans l'idée (assez vague pour le moment) de faire 4/5 jours au Lesotho avec une entrée au sud ouest pour remonter vers le nord (Malealea, Semonkong, Maliba), 3 jours au Swaziland (Mkaya Game Reserve, Hlane Royal NP), et 3 jours au Kruger (à définir) pour revenir par le Blyde River Canyon.
Je vois que tu conseilles plutôt les réserves privées du Swaziland à celles du Kruger. Est ce que, selon toi, je devrais rajouter une journée au Swaziland et en enlever une du Kruger ? Ou est ce que tu conseillerais plutôt de totalement zapper le Kruger ?
Hlane est une petite réserve qui vaut une halte d'une nuit (à mon avis) sur la route entre Maputaland et Krüger.
Mkhaya vaut une halte de 2 nuits pour y voir les rhinos et peut-être à pied ! Mais pas de lions...par contre des hyènes curieuses !
Les Rp en bordure du Krüger sont le top. Shindzela (immersion totale mais pas de luxe, à la frontière du Krüger), King's camp, Djuma et N'Khoro (à la frontière du Krüger) ont été mes destinations. Les RP de Thornybush sont peut-être un poil au dessous point de vue immersion (Chapungu et Kwa Mbili).
Une pépite (pas donnée) DANS le Krüger au camp Shonga...camp Shawu est encore mieux !
J'essaie d'intéresser les gens à Tembe dans le Maputaland (un bon compromis)...Pas loin, il y a Phinda mais le prix...
Plus haut dans le Marakele, une bonne piste et idem pour Madikwe mais il y a du monde (sans excès) et des animaux !!! Avec de bons plans point de vue tarifs.
Donc...2 nuits au Swaziland à Mkhaya et 2 Rp de 2 jours en bordure ou dans le Krüger...C'est aussi une question d'argent mais dans tous les cas, on en a eu pour notre argent !
Malgré le luxe et la beauté de certains lodges cités, ma préférence irait à Shindzela. Pas pour une question de sous (quoi que 🤪) mais pour l'immersion totale 😉 😎
Antoine, désolée de cette digression à ton post d'origine.
Je continue mes recherches...
Pour le Lesotho je pense à ce trajet :
J1 : Entrée par Ficksburg (en provenance de Golden Gate NP) -> route jusqu'à Semonkong.
J2 : Semonkong Activité
J3 : Semonkong -> Malealea (on aimerait passer par la route à gauche après Moitsupelis plutôt que devoir remonter jusque Maseru), possible sans 4x4 ?
J4 : Malealea
J5 : Malealea -> Quitter le Lesotho par Telle Bridge et route vers Graaf-Reinet.
Tout ça vous semble possible avec une petite voiture en étant prudent evidemment 🙂 ou faut-il adapter le trajet ?
Merci !
Je ne suis pas le meilleur conseiller pour le Lesotho...je ne suis allé que du côté de Katse, du Maliba et sur la route des crêtes vers la Sani Pass, désolé.
Bonjour Antoine,
super la vidéo, les images et le montage.
L'été prochaine je pars en vacances en Afrique du Sud, je serais intéressé par les infos suivantes :
où as tu fait de la tyrolienne ?
Quel club de plongée à Sodwana Bay ? En es-tu content ? matos, moniteur, la ou les plongées elles-mêmes
Quel village au Lesotho (passage de la danse) ? Plus globalement, le Lesotho faut-il le détour ?
merci d'avance
Lionel
Nous avons fait la tyrolienne dans le Drakensberg, ça s'appelait Canopy Tour ou un truc comme ça. Pas mal du tout, un rien cher peut-être.
A Sodwana Bay c'était la basse saison, nous avons juste tenté le snorkeling mais avons été déçus car la mer était trop agitée et la visibilité quasi nulle. En haute saison ça peut le faire mais à la période à laquelle vous y allez, ça risque d'être vraiment froid (une bonne combi donc 😉).
Le Lesotho est vraiment pas mal, très différent (pauvre et très montagneux). Tout dépend ce que l'on recherche, le dépaysement y est plus grand qu'en ADS. Nous avons été à Semonkong (belle cascade) et à Maléaléa (c'est là que nous avons vu cette chorale animée).
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Nous partons de fin décembre à fin janvier en AFS. Arrivée Joburg, départ du Cap. Nous sommes attirés entre autre par le Lesotho et Kgalagadi. Notre idée est…
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!