In the midst of Kenya's wildlife, October 2025
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
PU
Hello everyone,

After sharing some safari photos from southern Tanzania, I’d like to show you those from our latest safari in Kenya in October 2025.

First, I’d like to thank Sylvie56, whose previous travel journals about this country inspired our trip choices. Thanks also for the info you sent us via PM. THANK YOU!

The following account is from a simple wildlife enthusiast. You won’t find anything here but images of landscapes, mammals, and birds. The stated purpose of this trip was purely and solely wildlife-focused. (It was in no way a discovery of the country or its people).

This stay/safari began (and ended) in Nairobi, with flights between France and Kenya operated by Qatar Airways departing from Nice.

Over two weeks, we first visited the reserves of Tsavo West and Tsavo East, then after a long road trip, the two reserves of Buffalo Springs and Samburu.

= Please wait until the end of the journal to ask any specific questions (or send them via PM) to keep the story flowing without interruptions or off-topic comments.

Thanks for your understanding.

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Previous Kenya safari trip in 2017, here:

http://www.image-nature.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=162&t=61119

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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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- Thursday, October 9, 2025-

It’s around 1 p.m. We’re getting ready to enter the TSAVO WEST wildlife reserve in southern Kenya. The sky is overcast...



Reminder: Click on each image to enlarge it, if needed.

At 7 a.m. this morning, in the courtyard of the « 67 Airport » hotel in Nairobi, we met the person who would be our driver-guide: Simon, and the vehicle that would transport us for the next 14 days. Then, we drove for 6 hours along the main road between Nairobi and Mombasa, which is overrun with trucks. Driving in Kenya is pretty nerve-wracking, but Simon turned out to be very cautious throughout our stay. Still, we’re relieved to leave that road behind and head onto the quieter tracks of Tsavo West.

Originally, we were supposed to start with Tsavo East, but overbooking at a lodge led to a change in our itinerary.

There are four of us “tourists” on board: This time, a couple of friends is joining us. For them, it’s a total first—both Africa and the world of wildlife safaris. For us, after several trips to neighboring Tanzania, this is our 4th Kenyan trip. It’s also a return to the “roots” of our passion, since our very first safari in Africa—already in Kenya—dates back to... thirty-nine years ago... We were still young then!! It was right after the release of *Out of Africa*....!!

When you start a safari, you always wonder what the first animal you’ll see will be... Well, this time, it’s a group of plains zebras standing right in the middle of the track.



The itinerary we’ll follow over these two weeks is based on personal wishes (though approved by my three fellow passengers). The red earth of the first two reserves is the reason I chose Kenya this year: Before I hit the age limit for safaris 😕, I wanted to see the famous red elephants of Tsavo. This one isn’t quite red enough for my taste yet...



We’d already visited Tsavo West back then, but my memory has faded a lot—especially the mountainous aspect of this reserve. All the vegetation is very dry, though some trees are surprisingly green...



First encounter with a fringe-eared oryx!! It’s on my “secret list.” For my wife and me, despite our many previous safaris, it’s a first, so these are my first photos of this animal.... We love oryxes (all types) and hadn’t seen one since... a long time (2017!).



Notice the tuft of black hair at the tips of its ears—that’s what gives this variant of the beisa oryx its special name, one we’ll encounter again at the end of our trip.



Then a Coke’s hartebeest.



And... finally, the one that had become an obsession for me: I’d seen them in Tanzania before, but too briefly to get a decent, presentable photo!! It’s the lesser kudu, a species in its own right, a smaller-scale portrait of the greater kudu (with significant differences). Another mammal that was on the “secret list” etched in my brain!!





Around 2:30 p.m., we arrive at the lodge that will host us for the next two nights: "Ngulia Safari Lodge Kwaheri".

From the restaurant: An adult male black hornbill (and a table thief!!!).



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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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In front of the lodge terrace, several waterholes attract groups of Elephants.



Just before 4 PM, we head out again for the late afternoon safari. A magnificent Defassa waterbuck strikes a pose as we pass by.





And, on a rocky outcrop overlooking the surroundings... a lone lioness seems to be lounging!!



We stay a long while, watching her poses.





The shadow of the surrounding mountains creeps over our exploration area..... This female impala is on edge, especially since she has a little one by her side.



In front of the lodge’s restaurant, a wooden structure stands. Tonight, a piece of meat is hung there!! Personally, I’m not a fan of this kind of interaction with nature. But since it’s there, might as well make the most of it. A spotlight illuminates the area, and just as we finish our meal... a leopard (a regular here) arrives and, in one leap, is within reach of its meal!!



For about twenty minutes, the feline devours the meat, not leaving a single scrap....!!



And it vanishes into the night as quickly as it appeared.

When we went to bed, I realized that around two hundred buffaloes had come to settle against the lodge walls—a position they’d leave around 5 AM!! For a first day of safari, it was (for me) an amazing day: seeing an oryx, a lesser kudu, a lioness, and a leopard right off the bat... What luck!! Let’s hope it lasts!!

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- Friday, October 10: Second day of safari without changing lodges. Breakfast at 6 AM, departure at 6:30. The weather is gorgeous.



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MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hi Alain,

Glad I can follow the story without regularly forgetting the new updates 😉.

Please wait until the end of the travel journal for any specific questions related to it (or send a PM), to try and keep the story flowing without interruptions or going off-topic.

Now, I’ll keep quiet
SI SimonL Regular ·
Hi Alain, and thanks for this lovely start to your travel journal.

It helps me pass the time because in six weeks, my wife and I are heading to southern Tanzania. What I love about this journal on Kenya is that it brings back such great memories. During the Covid period, which had been raging for a year, all non-European borders were closed. We were "depressed." Then, in June 2021, the fog lifted, and Africa became accessible again. Without hesitation, I searched like an addict craving my fix of wildlife encounters in Africa. We returned to Kenya, a place we had discovered in 2013. Over two weeks in June 2021, we visited Meru-Samburu Parks, then Tsavo West, and finally Tsavo East. We had some amazing encounters, which you can see in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9jjqhmyTlM&t=5108s

Looking forward to the rest, Alain.

Have a great day, Loïc
CH Christi56 ·
Love this travel journal—it looks amazing!
PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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Thanks to all three of you. 🙂

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A peaceful scene: a solitary Hippopotame accompanied by a pair of Oies d’Égypte and a calm waterhole... not for long...!!!



Across from us, at the top of the hill, a cloud of dust: dozens of Buffles heading toward this waterhole... REALLY impressive!!



For half an hour, more and more kept arriving—there must be hundreds!!



What’s funny is seeing the Hippopotame not moving—completely unfazed??



We continue... There’s more than just buffaloes to see in Tsavo ouest 😉 A Circaète à poitrine noire.



A male Impala.



And again, some Oryx à oreilles frangées.



Here, you can clearly see the distinctive black tufts at the tips of their ears.



Then, a Aigle bateleur des savanes.



And a Pintade de Numidie.



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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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I had come to these Tsavo reserves (West and East back-to-back) to see red elephants!

I discover zebras "red"??



We quickly understood why, with the color of the "road"!! 😉



A Loustalet’s bustard.



A lesser kudu shows us the sophisticated decoration of its "costume"!





On our way back to the lodge for lunch, we find the lioness no longer on her rock but lying in wait for a zebra leg???

Further on, a family of warthogs.



In the afternoon, we head to a special area of Tsavo West dedicated to the protection of black rhinos. It’s a huge enclosure guarded by numerous rangers equipped with military weapons for anti-poaching efforts. Unfortunately, within the time we had, we didn’t encounter any rhinos. That afternoon, no one seemed to have seen them...

A red-billed hornbill.



On the way back, in the middle of the track, yellow-throated francolins are taking a dust bath!!!



This morning, October 11, we left Ngulia Lodge after two nights there to move to another accommodation, still in Tsavo West. (Consequence of the booking issue mentioned at the start)

We take a very little-traveled but very pleasant track.



Then we have a rare encounter that delighted our whole group, including Simon, who hadn’t seen one in a long time!! And neither had we!!!

An African pygmy falcon, or African pygmy falcon (the smallest raptor on this continent).



Next, we stop to visit Mzima Springs: a big disappointment for me!! We had seen this place 30 years ago during our second stay in Kenya. It was a beautiful, clean, and well-maintained spot... It’s completely different now. The vegetation is overgrown everywhere, and many large broken trees are scattered all over. ... Avoid.

I’m forced, to comply with this forum’s rules (max 300 images), to make many shortcuts and limit the number of images I share. I’m sorry about that.

Puma2A

About Ngulia Lodge (which wasn’t my first choice), it’s a perfectly decent place, both in terms of the food offered and the cleanliness of the rooms. It has one flaw in my opinion: it’s at the end of a dead-end track. When you leave or return from a safari, for the last few kilometers leading to the lodge, there’s no alternative route. You have to use the same track. The first fork is 5/8 km from the lodge. We had to travel this stretch of road 8 times... which eventually became monotonous. (Purely personal opinion, of course)

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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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During this morning, we were lucky enough to spot the Kilimanjaro massif in the distance, with its summit clear—a rare sight 🙂. In this photo, Kilimanjaro is about 90 km away...



Then, another encounter with a group of fringe-eared oryx. This time, there are very young ones too...



We’ve seen far more animals than the number of photos shown here suggests (still hoping to stay within Carnet’s 300-image limit).

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The "Kilaguni Serena Lodge", where we arrived around noon, is a very large establishment—not exactly my favorite style. Still, it’s very comfortable, clean, the food is great, and the menu offers plenty of variety. The staff we met were friendly, polite, and always smiling. What else? 😉

From a safari perspective, this lodge is a great starting point for exploring many directions, which is a big plus. Originally, we were supposed to spend three nights here, but due to overbooking, our safari agency had to make last-minute changes. So, we’ll only stay one night.

= It seems that with the prices to access the Masai Mara, many clients and agencies are now turning more toward the two Tsavo reserves (East and West).

From the lodge’s dining room and lounge, there’s an incredible view—both far and near—of a watering hole popular with the region’s animals.







During the afternoon safari... It’s not gray, but not quite the red I’d prefer, but this one has a great stance and impressive tusks... (personal taste)



Near one of the region’s many lava flows, we met two klipspringers at close range.



You can see the sharp, vertical hooves of this animal, so agile among the rocks.



Since arriving in Tsavo East, we’ve often seen dik-diks, but always too briefly for me to react in time... 😕 Finally, here’s a male dik-dik...



The female (hornless) is always nearby—they’re loyal couples and stay close together...



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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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Then, we encountered a young Grant's gazelle that seemed to have lost its group.



And the HOLY GRAIL of this day...!! Despite a massive backlight 😕 A leopard on the prowl.







😏 😉 😏

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- Sunday, October 12:

Today, we left Tsavo West Reserve to head to Tsavo East.

In the morning light, under a very gray sky, we met a group of impalas that weren’t shy at all.



We reached the lava flow (seen the day before), which the track crosses:

And there, a surreal scene unfolded before us... First, an oribi that seemed to be staring at something.



Further on, a young leopard was resting... (not the same leopard we saw yesterday!)



Actually, it was two oribis harassing this young leopard with their whistles...!!



We guessed that the pair of oribis might have had young hidden nearby and were trying to drive the danger away. Clearly, the leopard wasn’t comfortable on this lava, which could damage the pads of its paws. Meanwhile, the oribis were in their ideal environment, given their agility on the rocks.



Twice, we saw the leopard yawn so wide it looked like its jaw might dislocate... Maybe it was really tired???



To be continued... 😎 ??

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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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(Sorry for the lack of sharpness in these images, taken at 600mm with my lens. Fortunately, there are "bean-bags" in the vehicle to support/stabilize the camera gear.)



Finally, the leopard decides to head off to a quieter spot!!!



It (she?!) disappears into the lava chaos. We can hardly imagine the relief of the klipspringers....!!



On the way toward the reserve exit, we come across some "red" zebras...





And one of the beauties of African nature: a male bushbuck.







A baboon on its "garden chair"!



As we follow a dry riverbed through the vegetation, we spot a group of hippos "at the beach"



It’s pretty surprising since their skin is very sensitive to the sun—there must be a waterhole just out of sight below.

This marks the end of our very enjoyable visit to Tsavo West.

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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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After a few kilometers of driving and hitting the heavy traffic again on the main road Nairobi / Voi / Mombasa, we arrived at one of the entrances to the Tsavo East reserve.



Tsavo East is a vast expanse of red earth and low or sparse vegetation.



My dream has come true!!





Seeing and photographing the red elephants of Tsavo East was the main motivation behind choosing to return to Kenya. This wish had been growing in my mind for a few years now... And now, here we are!!!



We’d already had the chance to see white elephants at one of the watering holes in Etosha, Namibia, and now I can capture images of these red elephants... 😏 I almost shed a tear.





A stop to stretch our legs at Mudanda Rock: A curious, long, straight geological formation that acts like a natural barrier between two "worlds"!!



We climb to the top easily, which gives us a view over Tsavo East.





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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
Around 1 p.m., we checked in and had lunch at "Sentrim Camp Tsavo." We’ll be staying here for 3 nights. I must say, it’s exactly the kind of lodge that suits me perfectly. It’s a small place with no obvious luxury. The bungalows, half solid structure and half canvas, are comfortable, clean, and well-ventilated. The food is excellent. The staff is polite, friendly, and always smiling.

That said, what can I say about some guests—Italians in particular—who have no respect for their neighbors’ peace and quiet?! Putting that aside, we’ll keep very fond memories of this lodge and its staff.

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There’s a watering hole right near the camp with visitors throughout the day, and a platform to observe them more easily.



Some "visitors" are particularly majestic... (even without being colorized in red!!).



Around Sentrim Camp.

We spotted some Gerenuks (Giraffe Gazelles) (the female doesn’t have horns).





Its characteristic stance for reaching foliage at a higher level than other gazelles.



A Buff-crested Bustard.



A Kori Bustard.



Just as the sun dipped below the horizon, we witnessed a calm herd of elephants passing by. A truly unforgettable moment for me!!





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- Monday, October 13:

From this day on, we’re changing our morning routine for breakfast. We’ll just grab a quick coffee and a biscuit at the lodge to wake up. The cook prepares bags with everything for a hearty breakfast, which we’ll enjoy somewhere along the way on the hood of the vehicle.

A Grant’s Gazelle (female—both sexes have horns).



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BL Bluequark Veteran ·
These photos are amazing! Thanks so much for this travel journal. And those red elephants—what can I say? I totally get why you were so excited to see them.
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Well, Alain, now I’m jealous—I only saw some ugly marabou storks and a lone, sad hippo at the Sentrim watering hole 😅. Luckily, I wasn’t expecting much since we were there in the middle of the rainy season 😅.





But I loved it anyway 😊 (and thankfully, I also saw the red elephants in the park, a cheetah mom with her three cubs, and so much more. Thanks for bringing back these memories 😊).

Christelle
PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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Hello, and Thank you both for stopping by here.

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- Monday, October 13:

From this day on, we’ll do things differently in the morning for breakfast. We’ll quickly grab a coffee and a biscuit at the lodge to finish waking up. The cook prepares bags with everything for a hearty breakfast, which we’ll enjoy somewhere along the way on the hood of the vehicle. ...!

Morning encounters:

A Von der Decken's hornbill (adult female).



A pink-rumped bushshrike, also called pink-rumped gonolek.



A Fischer's starling or Fischer's starling.



A Rüppell's vulture.



A white-browed coucal.



We really enjoy stopping to observe and photograph all the birds we come across. It’s an important part of a safari. However, we don’t have any ornithological expertise (I’m even a bit at odds with ornithologists...). It’s Simon who identified them each time. My partner writes down all the names in a notebook, and when we get back, I double-check on the "oiseaux.net" website. I have to admit that Simon has never been wrong in his identifications. Kudos to him.

It’s great to have the names of the species shown in the photos, especially in French (on a French-language forum), but for me, you can still admire the beauty of a specimen without knowing its name....!!

After about 2 hours of driving on the tracks heading north, we reach a place I never imagined existed in Tsavo East...!!



We’ve arrived at the banks of the Galana River, near the Lugard Falls. This is where we’ll have breakfast “on the beach”—or rather, on the rocks by the shore (Beware of crocodiles, as they say here!).



When you’ve been driving through an arid area for 2 hours, you don’t expect to arrive at such a wide river, in a place this beautiful and peaceful. It’s a wonderful surprise and discovery of this trip.



There’s even a bridge that lets you cross to the opposite bank and potentially continue out of Tsavo East to the north of the reserve.



Along the banks, with binoculars, we spotted some birds, a few hippos, and lots of crocodiles.

After heading back south on the track, an unexpected encounter...

Ostriches!!



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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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Change of track for the return trip... :) We're following a tiny stream. The discoveries continue. In the shade of a palm tree, ...







In the shade of another palm tree, 250m further, two more lionesses.



It's likely there was a whole group of lions scattered in the fairly dense bush nearby, but we couldn't spot any other specimens.

A pair of Pink-rumped Tchagras in deep discussion, or... a courtship display!!



Still by the stream, a Woolly-necked Stork.



Further on, a Martial Eagle (a juvenile)



Late morning, as we're near the lodge... A group of Grant's Gazelles: one male, two females, and a young male on the right.



A Grey-winged Hawk.



- After "lunch", at the lodge's waterhole:

A female Defassa Waterbuck and her calf (the white crescent for identification is clearly visible on the rumps of both animals)



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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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For 2 hours this morning, we observed a large group of lions. Anyway, the track was blocked by other vehicles whose passengers were trying to see the lions. They were in "clusters" of 2, 3, or 4 individuals, scattered in a very dense environment, made up of tall grass and thick, tight bushes. 😕 I’m only sharing 4 slightly more "readable" images. We mostly saw females, accompanied by males barely out of adolescence. But we think we only saw part of the group.





When we’re stopped like this for a long time, focused on one thing, I make a habit of regularly looking in the opposite direction, just in case!! And sure enough... "bingo", a hyena arrives from the other side of the track. Luckily—for her—she sniffed out the lions and turned back without them noticing her.



The day was coming to an end when a lioness (wearing a GPS tracking collar) stood up, signaling the group’s departure.





The sun had set behind the mountain range to the west when they left: I counted 21... But they didn’t all pass where I was counting them... so the group was even larger (probably between 25 and 30).

That’s the end of a great safari day in Tsavo East. ...

- Tuesday, October 14:

While enjoying a little coffee, we could see at the lodge’s watering hole 3 beautiful tusks, carried by 2 elephants... ??!



The sky had turned quite dark when we spotted—not too far—near a watering hole, a large group of lions, and this time there were cubs and a big male with a GPS tracking collar. The image is very poor; it’s just to show we saw them.

Was it the same group we saw the day before... ???? 😐



It’s still a bit dark, but... these two female lesser kudus are stunning and so close! My best opportunity to capture the species...





We barely avoided the downpour, but we got to see the rainbow... 😏 😏



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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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Fringe-eared Oryx (red-tinged with dust)!!



A Black-faced Sandgrouse.



A Scarlet Bee-eater. 🙂 😏

A Tawny Eagle.



And a strange encounter... Right on the track, on a small bridge, a lioness with a full belly, digesting.

It was the next day, when we found her there again, that we understood why she was there... (To be continued!!)

We didn’t see many, which is pretty surprising...!!?

A Marabou Stork.



Finally... 😏 comes the moment for breakfast on a hill overlooking the plain. I got a lovely surprise:

The movie "Out of Africa" was the starting point, 40 years ago, for our love of African nature. I adore its music, and I’d mentioned I’d love to hear it... in the right setting, during the safari. Our friends had it recorded on their smartphone, and I sipped my coffee with the music playing. Moving 🙂

(Don’t worry, there were no animals in sight, nor any other vehicles. No one was disturbed).

Another beautiful encounter... in color!!?





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PU Puma2A Veteran ·
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We arrived at an elephant dusting bar/beauty salon in Tsavo East … (There must be other similar spots in Tsavo East)



What’s great is that its close neighbors get to enjoy the dusting just as much...





The makeup is really stunning!! You’ve got to admit, the result is worth the effort ???



The dust can’t replace the good nourishing milk from its mom!!



A Tawny Eagle.



Finally, a Little Bee-eater! 🙂



A Zebra enjoying a good scratch:



The morning continues with its share of discoveries. It’s an amazing raptor, very tall on its legs, rarely seen in flight …



A Secretary Bird (specialized in catching snakes).



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