Pour un rapide présentation, nous sommes un jeune couple français (22 et 23 ans) qui souhaitons partir à la découverte de la Namibie et du Botswnana, avec un passage aux chutes de Victoria, en aout 2012. Je compte environ 30jours bien que le circuit peut etre réductible ou extensible selon l'itinéraire et le budget.
En lisant le forum et vos nombreux conseils, je me suis adréssée à Tourmaline pour avoir une proposition de circuit clef en main. (voir itinéraire proposé en pièce jointe)
J'aimerai donc avoir vos commentaires et remarques sur cette proposition de circuit.
Sur combien de jours devons nous étaler notre voyage ? ( en restant dans le budget, et en partant découvrir les éléments incontournables sans que celà soit trop répétitif)
Le budget serait grand max de 3000 euros pour deux en tout sur place, hors aérien ( voiture, essence, parcs, nourriture, camping ... etc). La location d'un 4X4 des agences que j'ai contacté coute environ 100 euros par jour, ce qui me parait cher. on me propose bien souvent une voiture classique 2X4 pour moins cher.
Quel est votre avis ? Est ce suffisant ?
Je vous remercie pour vos réponses et espère que cette discussion servira également à d'autres.
Les parcs et réserves du Botswana ne sont pas faisables en 4x2, je connais moins bien la Namibie, mais effectivement Etosha et Fish River Canyon sont jouables.
Cela signifie que pour le Botswana avec l' itinéraire proposé vous ne verrez pas grand chose voire rien (Kalahari, Okavango, Moremi, Chobe, etc..) à moin de payer dans chaque endroit des suppléments conséquents pour vous faire emmener dans des véhicules adaptés (cela fonctionne pour Okavango et Moremi à partir de Maun, pour les autres j 'en doute vu leur localisation géographique).
Dans ces conditions j' aurais tendance à vous suggérer soit de vous cantonner à la Namibie et à ce qui peut y être fait en 4x2, soit de prendre un 4x4 et réduire considérablement la durée de votre séjour en vous concentrant sur ce qu 'il y a de mieux, quitte à avoir quelques parcours de liaison sur du bitume un peu longs.
Pour ce qui est de louer un 4x4, € 100 par jour ne me parait pas très cher sauf si c' est un véhicule non équipé (tente de toit, matériel de camping, etc...). Dans tous les cas - je ne sais pas à quel point vous connaissez ce domaine - ne louez pas un SUV mais un vrai 4x4 avec deux gammes de vitesses et si possible un blocage de différentiel, les SUV ne sont absolument pas adaptées aux pistes des Parcs et Réserves du Botswana (sable assez profond).
Autre suggestion: si j' ai bien compris vous avez une formule type "bed and breakfast". Pourquoi ne prenez vous pas un 4x4 avec tente de toit (Toy Hi-Lux ou similaire) pour faire du camping ? A moins que vous ne détestiez dormir avec des bestioles à proximité, cela permettrait sans doute de reporter une partie de votre budget hébergement sur un véhicule adapté à votre projet..
Bon voyage..
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Aïe ... J' voudrais pas te casser le moral, mais çà me semble mal parti tout çà !!!
Les 3 000 € que tu sembles vouloir alloué à ton voyage, correspond à la seule location du véhicule sur 30 jours !
Autre paramètre qui risque de contrarier tes plans : le temps dont tu disposes d' ici le mois d' Août .
D' autres sur le Forum t' ont précédée et ont déjà vu leurs réservations refusées par manque de place !
Pas rassurant tout çà ... mais autant le savoir avant de peut-être trop s' investir dans un projet qui ne pourra voir le jour en 2012 .
Pour une idée précise du budget, tu peux consulter la page que je lui est personnellement réservée : ICI (voyage de 30 jours Namibie & Botswana, , un peu similaire au tien, sur une base de 4 personnes en 4X4 équipé camping) .
30 jours avec 3000 euros, cela te ferme la porte des parcs du Botswana où le 4x4 est OBLIGATOIRE.
Mais sans casser vos reves et en restant dans votre budget, vous pouvez sillonner la Namibie en véhicule routier classique (sauf le Kaokoland) et faire quelques extras en 4x4 (pour aller au fond de Sesriem voir Dead Vlei par ex) et en conbinant camping et petits lodges. Vous ferez quand même super voyage car il a tant de belles choses a voir.
Par contre l'extension aux chutes va vous faire bcp de kilomètres sans pouvoir trop profiter du reste du fait de manque de 4X4 (à reflechir sur un vol interieur windhoek/Vic falls mais je ne connais pas les prix.
Sinon, l'Afrique du Sud est aussi un fabuleux pays avec de tres vastes parcs animaliers carrossables et des paysages magnifiques.
Autre élément qui milite en ce qui vous concerne pour la seule Namibie en 4x2: je crois (je ne suis pas sur, n' étant pas concerné, je suis un petit vieux, je n' ai jamais eu ce genre de problème), je crois qu 'un certain nombre de loueurs de 4x4 en Afrique Australe exige un âge sensiblement supérieur au votre...
A vérifier..
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Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Alors première chose, il est possible de louer un véhicule à moins de 25 ans, celà dépend des agences mais certaines acceptent sans problème. J'ai eu une proposition très intéréssante pour un 4x4 à 1500 euros pour 30 jours tout compris, sinon, une voiture 2X4 classique m'est proposé à 690 euros par Tourmaline pour la meme durée.
Je suis d'accord sur le fait qu'il est dommage de faire des kilomètres inutilement pour se voir fermer les parcs du Botswana sans 4x4. Il est effectivement possible de payer un extra via les lodges pour partir en 4x4 ( j'ai cru comprendre qu'il faut compter 100 euros par day drip par personne). Si on part du principe que l'on fait 3 day drip au botswana, celà nous fait rajouter 600 euros, et dans ce cas autant prendre un 4x4 directement.
Pour ce voyage, nous voulons découvrir des paysages variés et bien evidemment la richesse de la faune et la flore notamment au niveau des animaux sauvages ( il parait que le Botswana est plus "sauvage" "authentique" "riche en vie sauvage" que la Namibie, est ce que celà est vrai ?)
Par conséquent, en prenant en compte vos réponses, mon budget et la propo de Tourmaline (qui je précise ne comporte que la première nuit en B&B , le reste en camping) , nous avons 3 solutions pour un budget d'environ 1200 par personne, hors nourriture, essence et frais des parcs :
1) Nous concentrer uniquement sur le Namibie, environ 30 jours avec un 2X4
- -> Quels sont pour vous les endroits à ne pas rater ?
2) Realiser le circuit optimal Namibie/Botswana/Chutes Victoria avec location d'un 4x4, en se restreignant sur les activités, et réduire le nombre de jours pour payer moins en location (20 jours environ, est ce que ça peut le faire ?)
Je pense que dans ce cas je vais devoir tout de meme revoir le budget à la hausse...
3) Réaliser un circuit optimal Namibie/Botswana/Chutes Victoria avec location d'un 2x4 et participation à des excursions en 4x4 via les lodges au Bostwana. (+600 euros environ)
En lisant les forums, j'ai tout de meme peur de passer à coté d'endroits magnifiques en oubliant le Botswana, je pense par exemple à Chobe et Okavango... Peut etre est il possible de supprimer les chutes de victoria de notre itnéraire, (ce qui nous éviterez de nous rendre jusqu'à KASANE), et aller au Botswana uniquement quelques jours pour le delta d'oKAVANGO et le parc de Chobe? Qu'en pensez vous ?
Enfin, Tourmaline m'a proposé un cricuit de 30jours, un de 26 jours.
La première propo comprend Kalahani, Ghanzy, Makgadikgadi, Maun. La seconde annule les endroits cités precdemment et met à la place Waterberg et Runda.
Etant donné que je ne connais pas vraiment le pays, que pensez vous de ces deux options ?
Nous avons conscience de l'urgence de la réservation, je suis tout de meme rassuré que les agences et organisateurs de safaris ont des propositions à nous faire.
Dernière chose, je suis entrain de me poser la question du kenya ( les vols sont beaucoup moins chers) mais l'organisation d'un safari individuel tel que nous le concevons pour la Namibie semble plus compliqué... Avez vous des infos à ce sujet ?
Je vous remercie sincèrement du temps que vous nous consacrer pour vos réponses.
Je crois que le Botswana est plus intéressant sur le plan animalier, la Namibie (en particulier le Nord) plus intéressante sur le plan humain, également plus diverse sur le plan des paysages (Fish River Canyon, Namib, Skeleton Coast, etc..).
Je ne suis pas fana d' Etosha, je le trouve un peu palôt par rapport notamment à Moremi et Chobe, et puis (mais c' est une autre histoire), comme Etosha est plus facile d' accès et ses camps plus accessibles que pour les Parcs du Bots, on y rencontre des hordes de touristes qui me gâtent un peu le plaisir (comme les hordes de Jap à Uluru ou sur la Grande Barrière en Australie). Mais je suis un vieil emm..., et puis disons le simplement, je suis quande même plus aisé qu 'un couple de jeune gens.. Ce point de vue m' a d' ailleurs valu sur un autre forum l' inimitié indéfectible (qui au bout du compte m' honore) d' une personne de mon âge et qui trouvait mon point de vue politiquement totalement incorrect...mais j' assumme totalement, je ne suis pas réellement démocrate et ne souhaite pas visiter le monde avec les mimile du coin..
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Cela étant et à la réflexion, vous êtes jeunes, vous aurez dans votre vie un million d' autres occasions de revenir, ne serait-ce que comme moi à la retraite ou mon camarade P.. (nos véhicules partagent un container arrivant demain d' Europe à Walvis Bay) en y laissant un véhicule afin que l' Afrique Australe et Est deviennent une cible de vacances pendant un ou deux ans...(à 50 ou 60 ans, mais même à 40, c' est plus facile sur le plan financier)...
Je réfléchis en tapant sur mon clavier, et j' arrive à la conclusion qu 'il vaut mieux un pays bien "fait" que deux ou trois baclés..
Le passage par le Botswana est onéreux, prend du temps, est un peu "monoproduit" (tout en étant extraordinaire), aller voir les Vic Falls vaut la peine quand vous faites un grand tour du Bots...(venant de Maun, Moremi, Chobe - ou l' inverse), sinon depuis la Namibie c' est un très long détour (quoique certains disent - et je les crois - qu 'on ne consacre pas assez de temps à la bande de Caprivi, je vais me ratrapper en Mai mais cela fait pas mal de km si ce n' est pas marié avec le Bots)...
Conclusion perso: restez en Namibie, ne ratez pas les beaux endroits (je ne sais pas si on peut aller au Kakaoland en 4x2, j' y vais pour au moins deux ou trois semaines en juillet)...vous prendrez gôut à cette partie de l' Afrique et vous reviendrez en AFS, Bots, Zambie, etc.. en prenant votre temps.
Je crois que c' est pour vous et compte tenu de votre budget (ce qui n' est absolument pas péjoratif) la meilleure solution.
Essayez quand même d' avoir un "bon" 4x2 genre Crossover avec une bonne garde au sol (Toyota Condor ??), cela vous aidera quand même...
Vous parlez du Kenya...superbe mais beaucoup d' autres problèmes, notamment de sécurité, les seuls voyages abordables sont genre 15 jours dans un silo à touristes sur la côte, ce n' est pas la perception que j' ai de vous, si vous voulez vraiment en profiter, c' est comme le Bots, il ne faut réellement pas mégoter..Attendez d' avoir gagné un peu plus de sous pour vous payer un autre voyage (ycompris lac Natron pour les flamands roses, Masai Mara, et tant qu 'à faire faites un tour au Ngorongoro et finissez à Zanzibar..).
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Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Bonjour Julie,
Juste quelques remarques d'ordre pratique :
- fais attention avec les devis proposés par les TO : il s'agit de prix d'appel soumis à disponibilité : ce qui veut dire que si les campings sont déjà pleins, ils vous basculeront ailleurs et le plus souvent les prix seront plus élevés (et ça tu ne le sais qu'après avoir payé l'acompte) ; c'est arrivé à bon nombre d'entre nous même avec des délais de réservation plus importants; prévois donc une marge financière supplémentaire au cas où.
- 100 euros p/personne le day trip dans chobe ? pour m'être penchée sur la question, il ne me semblait pas que c'était si cher ?
- renseignes-toi sur les nouvelles mesures d'accès aux parcs du bots pour les selfs drivers (désolée je ne maitrise pas correctement les liens comme rivière fox) en surfant sur le forum botswana;
J'ai oublié de dire qu'un exclusif namibie peut être tout aussi extraordinaire qu'un combiné "vite fait" si tu recherches un dépaysement à la fois "paysages" et "animalier". C'est évident qu'Etosha n'est pas aussi sauvage que les parcs du botswana mais si c'est une première expérience safari pour vous vous ne devriez pas être décus...
Oui il y a du monde mais ça reste subjectif quand même. L'effet dont parle Bolobolo se vérifie notamment dans les camps où le midi et le soir tout le monde vient s'entasser pour voir le spectacle de nuit au point d'eau. Au début nous avions regretté de ne pas avoir pu dormir dans ce parc, mais avec le recul on se dit qu'on était certainement mieux à dormir à l'extérieur dans des camps plus intimistes. En tout cas, la majorité des voyageurs ne semblent pas avoir trop "coincé" sur sa grosse fréquentation; après c'est une question de chance, nous, nous avions été seuls la plupart du temps sur les pistes et au max 2 autres véhicules avec nous le matin aux points d'eau .
Je rejoins donc (mais ça n'engage que moi) les autres avis : restez en namibie si vous craignez d'être "juste" pour ajouter le botswana; pistes (hors kaololand) faisables en 2x4, paysages somptueux, animaux sauvages partout dans le pays (sauf buffles), il y a vraiment de quoi faire;
Mais c'est un choix difficile !
Au fait j'ai remarqué que votre discussion n'apparaissait pas sur les forums Namibie et Botswana, juste Afrique australe ? Est-ce normal ? Vous auriez pleins d'autres avis de connaisseurs (en plus de bolo et ericacole bien sûr 😉)
Je viens de regarder sur le site d' Audi Camp (un des moins chers sinon le moins cher à Maun):
Les prix sont sensiblement au dessus de € 100/jour pour Moremi en "day trip" si on est à 6 (ce qui à mon avis n' est pas idiot, il y a déjà 160 km AR jusqu' à South Gate, plus les km dans la réserve, sans doute au total 250km...imaginez le prix en taxi ? et une fois de plus le Bots n' est pas donné)...
Quant aux autres réserves (CKGR, Chobe), Audi Camp ne propose pas de "day trips" compte tenu de l' éloignement (n' oubliez pas que c' est en grande partie de la piste, que la vitesse est limitée à 40 kmh dans les parcs (moyenne maxi 20 kmh à condition de ne s' arrêter ni pour manger ni pour regarder les bestioles ni pour le reste)...
Le petit tour en avion au dessus de l' Okavango coûtait il y a 4 ans plus de € 100 par personne pour 15 ou 30 mnutes, le tour en Mokoro (que je trouve personnellement inintéressant si c' est juste une journée, car on arrive et repart à des heures où les bestioles dorment dans leur coin, en plus le Mokoro est totalement inconfortable) est à € 80, environ € 250 si vous voulez passez une nuit dans le Delta...
Pour ce qui est d' Etosha, je ne vois guère l' intérêt de dormir dans le parc (sauf peut être une nuit à Halali pour voir les animaux au trou d' eau, mais dans ce cas évitez soigneusement le resto et la boutique, c' est vraiement cantine aussi bien pour la prestation que pour la fréquentation)..Autrement il y a de "petits" lodges très sympa près des entrées Sud et Est (désolé, je suis fâché avec les noms), avec des emplacements dédiés pour planter votre toile...
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Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Si j'ai un commentaire, c'est "quelles belles perspectives".
Par contre, je serais tenté de dire "qui trop embrasse mal étreint" : en effet, le circuit proposé par ton T.O. te fais changer de campement tous les jours, et parcourir un nombre non négligeable de kilomètres. Si il y a bien une chose que j'ai appréciée en Namibie, c'est le calme et le silence (*) : alors à quoi bon essayer de la faire au pas de course.
Par ailleurs, et comme le souligne Eric (Bolobolo..), entre la problématique du prix du séjour au Bots, celui de la location du véhicule (rapport à l'age), et le fait que vous avez la vie devant vous pour revenir en Afrique australe, il me parait pertinent de vous limiter à la Namibie pour cette première (?) expérience en Afrique australe, et de la réussir. Dans ce cas, en 30 jours comme en 26, voue aurez le temps de profiter des paysages différents au nord et au sud, et de la faune, et sans exploser votre budget.
S'il est certtain que la location d'un 4x4 (avec ou sans tente sur le toit) vous ouvrira quelques portes pour encore mieux profiter de ce séjour, beaucoup de lieux sont accessibles en 2x4. Dans un cas comme dans l'autre, la prudence est une exigence absolue sur les piste.
Enfin, et c'est parce que je l'ai en projet quelque part, pourquoi ne pas envisager un A/R Windhoek/Vic Falls en avion pour finir votre séjour ? (dans la mesure ou le budget le permet encore bien sur).
* : c'est vrai qu'en aout, certains lieux touristiques (Etosha notamment) sont très fréquentés, et par quelques indélicats, bruyant et irrespectueux. Victime de son succès ..
Faut toujours écouter les vieux sages...😉
Bolobolobolo parle juste.
Faites un beau voyage en Namibie dans les cordes de votre budget. Vous ne pourrez en revenir qu'avec plein de belles images dans la tête et des merveilleux ciels étoilés dans les yeux. Plus tard, lorsque votre tire-lire sera remplie et si vous en avez toujours envie, vous ferez le Botswana et les Chutes.
Avec une petite voiture et tente, il y a beaucoup de choses à faire et à voir. La Namibie offre des paysages somptueux et variés.
Commencez par le sud et Fish River Canyon, comme vous avez du temps, vous pouvez envisager un trek avec guide.
Prenez le temps aussi a Sesriem et avant par la D707 et quelques jours dans les camps des ranchs autours du Tirasberge.
Les gravels sont tout à fait carrossables, il faut juste conduire à vitesse modérée (risque de sortie de route et dérapage si on va trop vite)
Walvis bay (sortie bateau) Cap cross, le Brandberg, le Spitzkoppe... le centre nord et
Finissez par quelques jours à Etosha où vous aurez tout le loisir d'approcher la faune africaine (Lions, elephants, Rhino....). Passez-y vos soirées blottis l'un contre l'autre en admirant le spectacle des points d'eau éclairés...
Merci à tous pour vos commentaires, vous etes extra !! 😉
Nous avançons dans la reflexion grace à votre aide.
Si nous restons sur l'option Namibie, pouvez vous me dire si (du coté Namibien), nous pouvons nour rendre en 2x4 à :
- Bwabwata
- Kaudom
- Mahongo
- Mamili
- Mudumu
Tous ces parcs sont à la frontière du botswana et ressemblent fortement à ce que l'on peut trouver dans ce pays voisin qui semble un peu plus sauvage. Plus on cherche, plus on se rend compte que c'est ce type d'environnement que l'on souhaite expérimenter (décor moins aride et riche en vie sauvage)... ça a l'air plus "aventurier" !!!
Si pas, des suggestions ?
Il s'agit de la première fois que je poste sur ce forum, je ne sais pas si je peux bouger la conversation de rubrique 😕
Merci pour votre considération qui m'est d'une aide précieuse.
Je ne te conseillerai pas de t'aventurer avec un petit véhicule non 4x4 du côté de la "péninsule" Namibienne qui termine la bande de caprivi. Je ne l'ai pas pratiqué mais j'ai lu cela : The road to Shakawe in Botswana is sandy in places and can make for difficult driving, just like the D3511, which runs along the Linyanti Swamps. Especially in the rainy season, one should prefer to travel in a 4x4.
La D3511 c'est celle qui mène à Mudumu et Mamili.
Donc route de sable en VL normal, c'est pas fait pour nous...galère assurée
La réserve de Mahongo sans 4x4 ne doit pas être praticable (mais je peux me tromper)
Quant à Bwabwata c'est le nom du parc que traverse la route de la bande de caprivi de Bagani à Kongola. Tu ne sortiras pas de cet axe goudronnée en VL normal : donc oublie.
Passez-y vos soirées blottis l'un contre l'autre en admirant le spectacle des points d'eau éclairés...
Je suis à 200% d'accord avec toi (sorry de contredire Bolo 😕😊) le point d'eau le soir - et encore le matin - c'est, pour moi presque la moitié du plaisir du parc !
Il y a du monde au trou d'eau, c'est sûr mais les gens se taisent - en général !
J'ai vu des groupes arriver au trou d'eau avec leur guide à des moments où il n'y avait presque aucun animal !
Je pensais que c'était bien triste pour eux d'avoir raté le spectacle féérique qui avait eu lieu qlq heures plus tôt et qui recommencerait le soir alors qu'ils seraient de retour dans leur lodge hors parc ! 😕 😕
Toi Eric, qui avais " dû plaire aux dieux africains" tu avais été gâté le soir à Halali ! 😎
Pour nous lors de nos 2 voyages ce fut toujours à Okakuejo que nous avons eu un spectacle sans cesse renouvelé.
😉
Pour Khaudom, on ne laisse entrer QUE les 4x4, exclusivement en convois de deux véhicules au moins...
Je pourrai t' en dire plus vers le 10 mai, j' y serai allé à ce moment (Un def 110 et un 130 avec deux petits vieux plutôt expérimentés).
L' intérêt de Khaudom (s' il y en a un) est que l' on est autorisé à descendre de son véhicule à tout moment (j' avoue que j' ignorais que ce n' était pas forcément permis dans les autres parcs, jusque là je ne me suis pas privé....et je n' ai pas franchement l' intention de changer).
Les avis sont toutefois partagés (www.4x4community.co.za), Khaudom manifestement un bush très dense laissé à l' état de nature et il semble qu' y voir des bestioles demande de la patience, si tant est qu 'on en voit.
Sinon, je vois que les avis des "anciens" se rejoignent plus ou moins..
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Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Khaudom a été décrit à plusieur reprises comme un parc wild-wild-wild : non seulement les pistes sont très sablonneuses, mais les infrastructures sont quasi inexistantes. C'est donc un parc que l'on fait en autonomie complète. Si ma mémoire ne me joue pas des tours, j'ai aussi lu que les campements ne sont pas clôtures comme à Etosha : on partage donc le camp avec la faune locale, et en particulier les éléphants qui sont à la recherche d'eau à cette période. A faire certainement mais en 4x4, et à plusieurs véhicules.
Michelle, si tu nous lis, tu n'as pas un lien magique vers quelque carnet traitant du sujet ? 😉 Moi j'ai "pioché" les photos ci-dessous. Si elles restent, ça donne un idée .....
Exact pour les "unfenced camps", mais c' est banal au Bots (CKGR, Chobe, etc..). Nous ne faisons pas partie du bol alimentaire des carnivores et pour les gros herbivores il suffit de ne pas interférer et d' éviter d' emporter des oranges aux éléphants.
Et merci pour les photos cela me conforte dans ma décision d' y aller. Pour le sable, si c' est partout comme cela c' est plutot moins qu' a Khutse et qu' en Australie...
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Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
+1 pour faire un beau voyage centré sur la Namibie. En 2x4 sans problème si le budget ne permet pas le 4x4.
Arroukatchee a parcouru le Botswana en 2x4, a raté plein de trucs et a été déçu.
- Bwabwata : la route goudronnée passe à travers
- Kaudom : non ! Voir les autres commentaires. Un carnet là.
- Mahongo : oui par la route le long de l'Okavango. Ensablement peu probable, mais au pire il passe du monde pour un coup de sangle. Non pour la route Ouest.
- Mamili : sous les eaux depuis 2/3 ans. Il faut plutôt un sous-marin qu'un 4x4
- Mudumu : je ne vais le découvrir que cette année. Mais 4x4 obligatoire à priori.
Plus on cherche, plus on se rend compte que c'est ce type d'environnement que l'on souhaite expérimenter (décor moins aride et riche en vie sauvage)... ça a l'air plus "aventurier" !!!
Plus aventurier sans doute. Mais ça serait vraiment dommage de négliger les paysages merveilleux de Namibie !
Faut toujours écouter les vieux sages...😉
Bolobolobolo parle juste.
Hello,
Tant que tu ne parles pas des vieux singes, on peut être à peu près d' accord, cela état il n' est pas totalement indispensable de souligner mon âge canonique..LOL..
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Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
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Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana / Zambie · 13 replies
Après avoir largement profité de ce forum pour préparer notre voyage, voici une modeste contribution relatant notre parcours estival de 29 jours en Namibie,…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana / Zimbabwe · 45 replies
J'envisage un voyage avec ma femme en Namibie Botswana et Chutes Victoria du 13 avril au 1 Mai 2017 soit 17-18 jours sur place. Nous sommes attirés par les…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.