Hi, you really made me laugh with your post—it reminds me of some friends I traveled with for 15 days in China back in 2006, who were also thrown off by the behavior of the Chinese. Actually, you just have to do like them and take it with a laugh, otherwise it’s true that it can be annoying. You didn’t mention the spitting and other "emphatic" throat-clearing—was that out of modesty, or have they calmed down?
Zai jian.
As for me, before leaving for China, I was advised to visit other Asian countries and avoid China. Yet my trip in April 2017 following a Beijing-Hong Kong itinerary and last April’s trip between Shanghai and Guiyang were absolutely enchanting.
But I understand your impressions, and yes, some of their behaviors can be shocking. However, you should also weigh in the positives: no one will try to scam you, you always feel safe (my girlfriend often walked alone at night), they have a fabulous railway system, they’re respectful (they don’t stare, and how many times did they offer my partner a seat?), and so much more. I suppose these qualities are even more pronounced in Japan, but compared to other countries I’ve visited, China is in a league of its own.
Two personal stories that show their kindness: the time we were stranded in a small town and the bus driver cut off another bus to let us board and take us to our destination. And another time, when I had a persistent cough (I have bronchitis/asthma issues), some students came to our rescue in a pharmacy to help us pick the right medicine and dosage.
Should I also mention the richness of their architecture and the diversity of their landscapes? That tips the scales even more toward the positive!
Yet I don’t travel in luxury. We’re always backpacking, staying in hostels, and avoiding taxis. In big cities, I love taking buses and the metro. In Beijing and Shanghai, I make sure to ride during rush hour—every time, I love the atmosphere. Biking in big cities or crossing the street on a red light (I know, it’s a bad habit) feels safer than back home in Montreal, where cars drive much faster.
At the office, when I say I’m going back to China, I hear "Again?!" Yes! Because every time I go, I discover something new.
We’ve never had communication issues, and I don’t speak Mandarin. Still, we visit many villages and always manage to make ourselves understood—our goal isn’t philosophy, just finding a bus, food, and a place to sleep 🙂
Next year, I’m heading back for 5 weeks, mainly to visit Yunnan. I can’t wait.
Of course, there are positives: safety on the streets and elsewhere, you can leave your bags without worrying too much, and you don’t feel stared at or "hassled" for a few dollars just because you’re a tourist (a memory from a trip to Morocco where kids from the village ran after us asking for money).
"The Chinese spend their time spitting. They clear their throats so loudly that conversation becomes inaudible—it sounds like a rototiller, or someone cleaning out a gutter, or the last few liters of water draining from a Jacuzzi. They suck in their cheeks: *Kurrrkh!* Then they grimace, position their teeth, and lean forward. You expect a jet of at least five meters, like a cowboy in the pampas, but no, they don’t put any force behind it. They rarely spit more than a few centimeters away. They don’t just spit far—they spit downward; that’s the key cultural difference I took a year to figure out in China. It’s not a clean shot right into the spittoon—it’s a dribble that trickles outside the disgusting receptacle. They double over when they spit, bending their knees and arching their backs as a prelude. There’s nothing aggressive about it. It’s almost silent. They let the glob drop and carry on their way. Of course, it’s an overcrowded country, and it’s impossible to hock a loogie without hitting someone."
Paul Theroux – *Riding the Iron Rooster* (1986)
Chinese people spit less than they used to. There was an awareness campaign before the 2008 Beijing Olympics that actually worked. That’s a good thing. But I see more people spitting in Brussels than I ever did in China (where I haven’t been back since 2014)
Despite my love for China, I have to admit I don’t agree with a few points mentioned:
they don’t stare
Ohhh, yes they do 😛
When I took a bus in Guilin, there was a man who sat right in front of me, and for the entire ride, he just kept this expression: 😮
He spent a good 10 minutes staring at me with his mouth open! And I’m talking about Guilin—not some remote village in the Chinese countryside where foreigners might be rarer. It made me laugh inside because, honestly, Guilin is full of tourists, so his reaction surprised and amused me!
Another story: during my visit to the Summer Palace, I took a break to eat, and in front of me was a Chinese family with several kids. One little boy spent the whole time I was eating trying to take my picture. Sometimes I’d turn my head away, laughing, so he couldn’t get the shot. When he finally succeeded, he was so proud and laughed with the other kids... I finished eating, walked up to him, crouched down to his level, and took a picture of him with my camera... Poor kid!!! He was so embarrassed!!! But his family and everyone around us was laughing a lot!
(The photo’s blurry because 1) I’d just bought a new camera I didn’t know how to use yet; 2) I took the picture quickly since the little guy was so embarrassed, and I didn’t want to prolong his suffering.)
So yeah, people do stare, but you shouldn’t take offense—it can actually be funny in the end 🙂
No one will try to scam you
In touristy areas, you still need to be careful. For example, in Xi’an, the cashier—who was super rude—didn’t give me my change after I bought my ticket to see the Terracotta Army... She just tossed my entrance ticket at me while yelling. I realized 5 minutes later! I went back to her, and as soon as she saw me approaching, without me even saying a word, she handed me the correct change right away—still acting just as rude!
But that was one of the very few bad experiences I had in China.
Generally, I found people in the south much friendlier than those in the north, where the big-city vibe was much stronger: people were more closed-off, less chatty, etc. But they were always ready to help, for example.
Hi Eric, you had a bad experience during your trip to China; unfortunately, you got off lightly: every day, tourists of all nationalities are scammed in China’s big cities like Beijing or Shanghai.
The method is always the same—scammers use well-rehearsed tricks: first, they lure you in with young people posing as students who offer you free tea (a Chinese welcome tradition, or so they say). Once they’ve hooked you, they take you to a bar slightly off the main streets and offer you tea for free. Next, they suggest a supposedly higher-quality tea, and at the end, they tell you it’s not free—the price ranges from a few hundred dollars, and they make sure to lock the doors so you can’t escape.
They hold you there until you pay the $200 or $300 they demand. If you don’t have the cash, no problem! They come with a portable card reader, just like in a French shop, and force you to pay with the credit card you have on you.
Every day, hundreds of tourists fall victim to these scams—whether it’s the "welcome tea" trick, karaoke girls who claim they’ve filmed you, or other schemes.
I’ve visited China—maybe I’ve seen more sites than you—and I can tell you, I’ve never encountered people as racist anywhere else. And I’ve been traveling the world for thirty-five years by car, sailboat, train, and bus.
For example, at the two Novotels in the Chinese capital, there isn’t a single day when tourists don’t come to complain about the scams they’ve suffered during their visits.
You were very lucky not to have been scammed and held against your will. The most recent people who told me about this "welcome tea" scam were two big, strong guys from a Nordic country who couldn’t do anything against the four thugs who followed them in, locked the door, and demanded payment.
As for the rest of your comments, I can confirm the mindset in the big cities—they spit everywhere, and government officials and the police are the most racist toward foreigners (I experienced this in Guilin and along the Li River). But if you venture into the countryside, people are like anywhere else in the world—wary of foreigners, and it’s up to you to earn their trust.
I hope you’ll get the chance to visit other, more welcoming countries. If you like hiking, I recommend Nepal and Pokhara, or the temples of Angkor in Cambodia and its lake with the nearby fishing villages. Or Halong Bay and Saigon (a walk around the lake in the city center) in Vietnam, Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia with its tea plantations in the north and its strait in the south, with the Perhentian and Tioman Islands. Or Sumatra with its orangutan rehabilitation village and Lake Toba, one of the largest craters and a tragedy in this planet’s history.
You’ll see that Asia has a thousand facets, and China isn’t a model for tourism. It’s a country that has known every form of monarchy and communism—a nation of slaves under dictatorship, gasping for air. You’ll need to be patient and wait a few decades before it wakes up.
Safe travels,
Apart from the suckers who still think young Chinese women chat with them for their good looks, I don’t see who gets scammed by the tea ceremony in China 😏. Every time, it’s the same guys who get lured into hostess bars by 20-year-old girls while they’re pushing 50 😄😄.
Apart from the suckers who still think young Chinese women talk to them for their good looks, I don’t see who gets scammed by the tea ceremony in China 😏 Every time, it’s the same guys who get lured into hostess bars by 20-year-old girls while they’re pushing 50
Anyway, let’s get serious again.
Plus, it’s a scam as old as it is well-known, and it’s hardly practiced anywhere except Tiananmen Square in Beijing—I read one single account of it happening in Shanghai, never anywhere else.
For my part, I’ve been to China six times and I really hope to go back! Sure, the food is very spicy in some regions, but in guidebooks, you can find a few Chinese words like "no spice," and besides, almost everyone has a phone with a translator. Sure, politeness is different from what we’re used to in France—you just have to remember that we’re on the other side of the world, and they don’t necessarily think the same way we do... More than once, I’ve had to ask for directions (I speak a little Chinese), and they bent over backwards to help us. More than once, we’ve been invited to have tea or even a meal in the countryside. Just to clarify, we travel as a couple. Admittedly, tourist spots are paid, but there are so many non-touristy yet far more authentic places to discover. Don’t stick to the cities—you’ll see the difference!
You forgot to mention the Chinese who try to scam you at every street corner. It’s not just because you’re foreigners—it’s simply the rule there. Scamming and swindling, a culture of money at any cost and without morals.
Between taxis with rigged meters, the tea house scam where you walk out with a bill for several hundred dollars for three cups of tea (and watch out if you refuse to pay), fake products sold as original brands, food scandals where they sell you plastic as real food, pickpocketing in public transport (one camera and one iPod gone), etc., etc...
I think they have the biggest range of scams in the world. Budding scammers could easily go to China for training...
I had the chance to spend a lot of time there for work, and I won’t be going back under any circumstances....
Hello,
I just read your post about China.
I couldn’t resist writing to you.
We went solo four years ago for three weeks in Yunnan. Unfortunately, a health issue forced us to return after just 48 hours. But in those 48 hours, we managed to see everything you mentioned.
1. The food—wow. I’ve never seen people eat so messily. They throw all their trash on the ground. It’s unbelievable.
2. English? We’ve traveled solo all over the world and always managed with English (even in South America, we made ourselves understood). Forget about it in China—they don’t speak a word of English. If you want to take a taxi, brace yourself—none will stop because they’ve spotted you as a foreigner, and since they don’t speak English, they just keep driving. We met some Belgians who waited nearly two hours for a taxi. They finally got one with the help of other foreigners. We took a bus. The receptionist had written everything in Chinese for us to show the driver or someone on the bus. No one bothered to look at our paper, just turned away with their masks over their mouths.
3. They don’t know how to talk. It’s a competition to see who can speak the loudest. They yell nonstop. It’s exhausting. They’re disrespectful, always in a rush. Even during our layover in Frankfurt, we were stunned by the noise the Chinese travelers made. A young German woman warned us: *You haven’t seen or heard anything yet...*
4. It’s true—they cut in line constantly. It happened at the airport. And we could tell you so many more stories...
In short, after 48 hours, we formed the exact same opinion of the Chinese as you did. We had to cut our trip short, but we don’t regret it, and I’ll never go back to China.
Hello forum,
Did you, like us, experience the same things in China?
We spent a good twenty days there in August. I won’t be going back.
Part of the trip was solo around Chengdu, then we joined a guided tour for 12 days (Beijing, Pingyao, Xi’an, Guilin, Xingping, Yangshuo, Shanghai, Wuzhen) and extended our stay by 4 extra days to visit Zhangjiajie.
The landscapes were stunning, and we have unforgettable memories... but we were really disappointed by the following:
- The food: way too spicy. No flavors, little taste. I’m speaking generally because we did try some good steamed dumplings, smoked pork, and dumplings...
But overall, we were blown away by Thailand, Cambodia, and India—Chinese cuisine didn’t impress us at all.
- The behavior of the Chinese: disrespectful, rushed, aggressive.
You have to fight constantly—we were pushed, crowded...
At the entrance to the Terracotta Army (or other sites), it’s a human tidal wave... and I mean that literally. We were carried by the crowd without our feet touching the ground. It was like a situation where you have one bowl of rice and 20,000 starving people diving for it...
You’re at a ticket counter, and they cut in front of you.
You’re in line for boarding, your suitcase ready to go on the conveyor belt, and someone shows up out of nowhere to put *their* suitcase down... even though they have a plane ticket with *their* seat number and won’t be leaving before you!!!
You’re getting on the bus, and someone else shoves past you so they don’t end up behind you.
It’s like these people only think about themselves. I didn’t see a single one let someone else go first or even ask politely—as if manners and respect were completely foreign to them.
It’s honestly draining, exhausting...
- Communication: In every country we’ve visited, in Asia or Europe, we’ve always managed with English, a few words of Italian, French, or Spanish.
In China, I’ll be blunt—if you don’t speak Chinese, you’re screwed.
And yet, a pair of kids around ten or twelve years old asked us in English where we were from :)
- Understanding: Here’s the rule. Even if your interlocutor speaks a few words of English and says they understand you... make sure they *really* do, because 9 times out of 10, they don’t. Out of pride or cluelessness, they’ll give you a big smile and nod, but in reality, they didn’t understand a word of what you said.
Several times with our group, in the evening at a restaurant, if we hadn’t been helped by someone at another table who spoke a little English, we’d still be there. The classic example: the waiter brings one menu (for 10 people at the table), and we’re all trying to explain that we want 4 or more menus. Five minutes later, he’s still staring at us with that same blank smile...
In 3- or 4-star hotels, you go to them for a hot water or air conditioning issue. Three or four of them stand there beaming at you. You try to explain with photos or a translator, but in the end, you leave because your problem isn’t fixed.
They don’t know how to talk—they just yell... on the bus, at the hotel...
We were also surprised to find that self-service laundromats were almost nonexistent. We got scammed once at a hotel with an astronomical bill!
As for flights, we went with Air China and returned with Austrian Airlines—no comparison. No service and *inedible* food with Air China. With Austrian, multiple services, a decent meal, and smiling flight attendants.
I don’t know if you’ve had the same experience with this country, but I’m not at all eager to go back. Whereas if someone offered me India, Thailand, or Vietnam tomorrow, I’d go in a heartbeat!!!
That’s just my take for whoever’s interested. I’ve also traveled all over different regions of China. I don’t speak Chinese. Sometimes it’s tough to make myself understood, but never, ever have I felt scammed. It’s possible that taxis charge tourists a bit more. Maybe. But at least it’s done with kindness and a smile. Maybe because my hair’s turning gray.
Try to picture a Chinese traveler on their own crossing France—it might help you see things differently.
Don’t waste your time replying to people who’ve posted just ONE message on this site. That goes for the person you replied to as well as the next one (whose style and comments are *really* similar 😄😄).
Ah, okay, so the number of posts guarantees a user's credibility on a forum.
Wow...
Some users have dozens of contributions, and yet their posts are so shallow....
Instead of looking at my number of contributions, check my registration date on the forum. Who’s to say I didn’t decide to change my username or email address in the meantime for reasons that don’t concern you.
I’m starting to think about a trip to Japan, though I haven’t yet decided on the exact duration or itinerary, and I have a few questions for those who know the country well or have traveled there recently.
First, about getting around: what do you think are the most economical and reliable ways to travel across Japan and move between cities? I’m thinking of trains, overnight buses, domestic flights, regional passes, etc. I’m not necessarily looking for the fastest option, but rather a good balance between cost, simplicity, and reliability.
I also have a question about the return ticket. Since I don’t yet know how long I’ll stay in Japan—or even if I’ll return directly to France (I might continue to another Asian country)—is it mandatory to have a return or exit ticket before entering Japan? Would a ticket to another Asian country suffice?
Regarding accommodation, I usually prefer staying in youth hostels rather than hotels. Are hostels easy to find all over Japan, including outside Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka? And what’s the average budget per night for something clean and well-located?
Finally, I’d like to get an idea of the overall budget for the trip. Is Japan still relatively affordable when traveling simply, or do expenses add up quickly? I’m mainly thinking about:
transportation between cities;
local transportation;
youth hostels;
food;
potential domestic flights.
My plan is to travel fairly freely, without necessarily booking everything in advance, so I can adjust my itinerary or stay longer in places I like.
If anyone has traveled this way in Japan, I’d love to hear about your experiences, tips, and maybe an idea of the daily budget to expect.
Hi there,
I’m planning my trip for May. Here’s my itinerary for 4.5 days in Seoul:
May 5: afternoon at Mangwon Market, Mangridan-gil, Han River
May 6: Gyeongbokgung, Tongin Market & Seochon, Bukchon, Insadong, Jogyesa Temple, and Ikseon-dong
May 7: Namdaemun Market, Deoksugung Palace, stroll along Cheonggyecheon, Seoullo 7017, Hongdae
May 8:Changdeokgung + Changgyeonggung, Gwangjang Market, Jongmyo Shrine, Jongno Boulevard for the big parade
May 9:Morning in Gangnam, Bongeunsa, Namsangol Hanok Village, N Seoul Tower Plaza
What do you think of this itinerary? Is there anything I should add, remove, or swap out? I tried to keep travel time to a minimum, but I might be missing something. I’d love to hear all your thoughts—thanks!
Philippe
According to my calculations, I’ll be in Zhangjiajie on Monday, November 16th. I adjusted my itinerary to avoid the weekend.
I’m wondering:
1- Do I need to book the park entrance in advance (like, is there a visitor limit?)
2- I plan to take the elevator and maybe a cable car (I’ll walk the rest—I’m in good shape). Should I book those too, or can I sort it out when I arrive?
3- On Wednesday, November 18th, I’m aiming for Tianmen Mountain. Same question—do I need to reserve? I read it’s under construction right now. And apparently, it’s line C.
3 bis - Also, is it possible to go all the way to the top by bus only, without the cable car, and finish on foot?
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
Hi everyone, I’m preparing for a one-month trip in October. I’m traveling solo and would love to explore the countryside, but I’m also wondering if there are any themed urban hikes or walks. In Japan, I did some themed city tours, especially by bike.
Thanks for any tips you can share!
Marie
Hi,
Our trip is planned for 20 days in Japan next April. We have a free subscription that would allow us to use 35 GB (I’m a bit confused), but we also need to be able to make phone calls with a French couple traveling with us for a few days, and that seems impossible due to cost... Any solutions for using GPS while keeping those 35 GB? Used to traveling in Southeast Asia, we usually rely on local SIM cards. Is it easy to do the same in Japan?
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Tialou
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
I’m currently in the process of booking my hotels.
I have a question about these two apps. I’m planning to use trips.com to book my trains (if I understood correctly, that’s the best way to do it).
Is there any advantage to booking hotels with trips.com, or can I keep using Booking? (I’m used to the interface.) My hidden question is whether it’ll work smoothly when I’m there (for new bookings or retrieving the ones I’ve already made).
I’ve booked my flight ticket to China, arriving in Hong Kong and departing from Chongqing.
I have 27 nights there.
Here’s my draft itinerary:
Hong Kong arrival (minimum 3 nights + 1 night for Macau)
Shenzhen (1 night – immigration, day and night city visit)
Guangzhou (2 nights – 2 days of sightseeing)
Yangshuo (3 nights – 2 full days)
Passing through Guilin (0 nights – 1 day)
Longsheng or Longji Rice Terraces Green (2 nights)
Sanjiang (1 night)
Kunming (1 night)
Dali (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Lijiang (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Shangri-La (1 night)
Chengdu (2 nights – 1 full day for Buddha)
Zhangjiajie (4 nights – 4 days)
Chongqing (2 nights)
I have an efficient travel style (I wake up very early and generally move quickly).
I don’t want to see the Stone Forest in Kunming because it looks too much like the Tsingy in Madagascar.
What do you think?
Thanks for any kind of feedback.
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
For April or May 2027, we’d like to find a student guide if possible to show us the best spots and services and guide us around the country for 2-3 weeks on our first trip there.
We’re missing key info to plan this trip, especially recommendations from people who’ve enjoyed places that aren’t necessarily touristy but more intimate.
Thanks in advance
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
Hi,
I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed).
I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years.
Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.?
I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku.
Thanks.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change?
thanks
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
I haven’t found what I’m looking for despite my searches!
For a 15-day trip next spring, I’d like to buy a card (preferably an eSIM, but a physical SIM is fine too) that also lets me make calls in the country (to contact a hotel, a tourist spot, etc.).
You can easily find options just for data, but I haven’t come across any that include calls, texts, or even MMS.
Could you recommend something?
