Bonjour à tous, savez-vous si on peut dormir au monastère d Dzogchen ou s'il faut redescendre à Manigango ?
Même question pour le Gompa Darjay.
Merci beaucoup pour votre aide !
Je suis a Garze, en périple depuis Lanzhou (par Labrang, Zoige, barkam, Larung Gar, Seda) n'hésitez pas si vous avez des questions sur ces coin-là,
Camille
Alors... À toutes fins utiles :
J'ai pu dormir dans une petite pension (une chambre dans une famille) au village qui se trouve au pied du monastère de Dzogchen. L'endroit est magnifique. Monastère immense, tout neuf, mais quel site dans cette vallée déserte au pied des monts enneigés. Le village a énormément de caractère.
Coup de cœur particulier pour Gompa Darjay (prononcer "tadji Gompa") et surtout pour le petit monastère attenant oû l'on peut dormir. Tenu par 3 moines des plus accueillants, un charme extraordinaire, au milieu d'une large vallée cultivée. Pas un bloc de béton à l'horizon, pas un bruit de chantier, le rêve pour passer plusieurs jours (à moins d'être chaudement habillé, fin avril il fait encore très froid) !
En partant, j'ai descendu la vallée à pied sur une vingtaine de kilomètres par un petit chemin loin de la route et qui traverse de très beaux petits villages. Derniers kilomètres pour rallier Ganze en stop.
J'ai vu ton message un peu tard. A toutes fins utiles pour les suivants, il existe aussi une gueshouse au niveau du monastère (c'était le cas en 2014). Confort rustique: bâtiment en béton récent mais déjà un peu délabré. Pas de salle d'eau bien sûr, juste un robinet dans la cour et des latrines à l'extérieur de la cour du bâtiment.
Voilà voilà!
Bonjour camille
je reponds un peut tard sans doute mais tant pis , je rentre d'un voyage dans toute cette région et suis entrain de remplir mon carnet de voyage sur VF
Oui, tu peux dormir à Dzogchen et y prendre le repas , il y a un petit hôtel bans le village avant d'arriver au monastère , je l'ai vu mais n'y suis pas resté , j'étais à Manigango au Pani Manigango Hotel le seul autorisé aux étrangers . rutique mais sympa et de là je te conseille d'aller au lac LHatso à environ 20 Km de Manigango sur la route de Dergé
a ta dispo pour plus de renseignements
bonjour, je vois que tu as mentionné larung gar, tu n'as pas eu de contrôle policier interdisant l'acces? nous avons demandé des renseignements sur les bus a tagong et on nous a dit que le lieu etait interdit aux etrangers.
Nous n'avons eu aucun contrôle en allant à YACHEM GAR , nous ne sommes pas allés à Larun Gar
au cour de notre presence dans cette zone en oct 2016 il y avait effectivement des "mises dehors" à Larun gar où il devrait y avoir environ 2500 moines de refoulés , c'est tout ce que je peux te dire
bonne soirée
Bonjour,
Non bizarrement je n'ai pas été arrêtée par la police, pourtant omniprésente à l'entrée de la petite route montant au Larung Gar. Ils n'ont pas pu ne pas me voir portant... Je n'ai vu aucun autre étranger. Il y avait pas mal de touristes chinois. Je suis montee a l'hôtel sur la crête (je ne me rappelle pas du nom) : là, la none de l'accueil m'a refoulée : hotel interdit aux étrangers. J'ai donc passe la journée sac (heureusement petit) sur le dos à crapahuter. En fin d'aprem j'ai rejoint le village au nord. Là, la police m'est rapidement tombée dessus, fort courtoisement mais fermement : poste / questions / rappel de l'interdiction d'aller au Larung Gar (hé hé mon pote, trop tard j'en viens !) et demande express de quitter la ville le lendemain à la première heure. Pour finir ils m'ont conduite (en voiture de police blindée) dans une guest house pour passer la nuit. Là, une jeune chinoise (qui parlait anglais !) m'a demandée comment j'avais obtenu l'autorisation de dormir ici, ses amis anglais s'étaient fait dégager la veille... Bref pas très organisée la police, ou alors j'ai vraiment eu de la chance !
Super interessant. En effet on voit a ta description qu'ils sont quand meme tendu.
Je pense comme tu le dis qu'ils ne sont pas tres organise (ce qui m'etonne pas trop), ce qui explique que tu sois passe entre les mailles au moins quelques heures. Par contre on voit que la nonne ne prend pas de risque de loger des etrangers. C'est quoi que t'appele le village a nord, "Sertar"?
C'est peut etre plus facile de passer lorsqu'on s'arrete pas a Sertar mais passe par Luho.
Si t'as des photos a partager de Larung Gar... Je me demandais si les travaux etaient tres visible ou non sur place, etant donne qu'il y a quand meme du tourisme chinois.
Je suis effectivement arrivée par le sud, en auto stop depuis Markang, j'ai dormi chez des gens je ne sais pas trop où, quelque part vers l'intersection entre la route principale (Markang / Luhuo) et la route qui mène à Sertar au nord. Je suis donc arrivée au Larung Gar assez tôt (vers 7 heures du matin) et par le sud. Peut-être que cela m'a aidé, je ne sais pas.
voici quelques photos, qui ne sont pas de bonne qualité, je voyage sans appareil, juste avec mon téléphone...
Je pense clairement que c'est parce que t'es passe par le sud (et en plus tot le matin) que t'es passe. C'est ce qu'on comptait faire aussi mais on serait peut etre pas arrive aussi tot et apres le probleme c'est pour dormir.
Par Sertar, c'est peut etre faisable aussi mais c'est un point plus facilement controlable pour la police.
Surtout quand tu t'y arrete pour changer de bus ou dormir. Facile alors pour la police de t'arreter.
Merci pour les photos. C'est pas tres gaie tout ca, j'espere que la population va trouver des alternatives, je ne pense pas que le gouvernement changera ses plans.
Bonjour,
Je n'ai vu aucun touriste étranger dans les endroits décris plus haut. J'ai vu des étrangers uniquement à Tagong.
Je ne comprends pas trop pourquoi ne pas vouloir croiser d'étrangers, nous en sommes bien nous, lol ;)
Sur mes traces ?... ah, mais je ne suis pas un guide... Ecoute je ne sais pas trop quoi te dire... Si tu ne veux pas préparer ton voyage toi-même il faut t'adresser à une agence.
Et si tu ne veux pas croiser d'étranger, c'est rigolo de t'adresser à ces mêmes étrangers pour avoir des infos sur où aller...
Je peux juste te dire comment j'ai préparé le mien. Je connaissais mon point d'entrée, Labrang, mon point de sortie, Chengdu, et la durée, 3 semaines. Bien en amont, une grande partie du plaisir réside là, 'ai acheté une carte de la région, glané des infos ici et là, pas mal sur ce forum dont je remercie au passage tous les contributeurs. ça m'a permis de rêver, de me raconter des histoires, d'entourer sur la carte les quelques endroits qui me semblaient fantastiques. je n'ai arrêté aucun parcours à l'avance puisque plusieurs inconnues dans l'équation : l'état des routes, les temps de trajet, les coups de coeur ou déceptions à prévoir.
Je voyage avec le minimum vital dans un sac aussi léger que possible, pas de bivouac : ni l'équipement ni les compétences, et une chose qu'un ami m'a dit il y a fort longtemps : "voyager, c'est fraterniser avec la providence."
Ce qui est facile au Sichuan : l'autostop marche très bien. On peut dormir à peu près n'importe où : tu trouveras toujours une chambre à louer chez les gens ou dans les monastères.
Ce qui est difficile : la langue ! échaudée par un précédent voyage en Chine, j'avais fait traduire avant de partir par une amie sinophone quelques mots et phrases clé sans lesquelles les choses peuvent devenir vraiment compliquées, voir infernales. genre "ou est la gare de bus ? à quelle heure part le bus, etc."
J'ai eu mon lot de surprises, merveilleuses, et quelques sueurs froides aussi. le frisson du voyage qui est finalement comme une drogue ;)
Je voulais seulement des infos des astuces ou conseils. J'ai traversé le Sahara seul à vélo. J'ai pas besoin de guide. Le forum sert à cela non ? Je monte à litang et derge. Bonsoir excuse moi de t'avoir déranger
Et je crois que Je t’ai donné les infos que j’ai pu. Simplement t’indiquer « un treck de 10 jours », bah désolée je sais pas.
Je te souhaite un bon voyage.
Vois mon carnet de voyages sur VF : "de kangding à Dergé , les monastères historiques du Kham il t'en dira plus que tout sur cette region
bon voyage
DOBLEDOU
Bonjour de Dergué ou je dois avoir rencontré la seule tibétaine (une policière) parlant anglais. Le gouvernement a le projet de détruire la vieille ville comme partout au Tibet pour améliorer les conditions sanitaires.... J'ai pris tunnel de 5 ou 6 km à 4300 m...
Bonjour à tous, savez-vous si on peut dormir au monastère d Dzogchen ou s'il faut redescendre à Manigango ?
Même question pour le Gompa Darjay.
Merci beaucoup pour votre aide !
Je suis a Garze, en périple depuis Lanzhou (par Labrang, Zoige, barkam, Larung Gar, Seda) n'hésitez pas si vous avez des questions sur ces coin-là,
Camille
Bonjour Camille
je souhaite partir au monastère Dzogchen en juillet et août 2020
comme tu as déjà été dans cette région j'espère que tu auras ce message pour me donner des indications
Merci d'avance
mahalia
Bonjour Mahalia,
Quelle bonne idée, ce coin du monde est vraiment magnifique et surprenant.
Comme je le disais plus haut, dans la région je me suis déplacée essentiellement en auto stop, qui marche très bien, parfois en bus quand il y en avait. Pour Dzogchen il n’y a pas de bus, en tous cas à ce que j’en ai compris.
On peut dormir vraiment partout, les tibétains eux-mêmes voyagent beaucoup (essentiellement pour des pèlerinages semble-t-il), on trouve des chambres à louer chez l’habitant, il suffit de demander.
La communication n’est vraiment pas facile. Avec les Tibétains on s’en sort toujours à peu près car ils sont très aimables et ont a coeur d’essayer de te comprendre et t’aider dans la mesure du possible. Avec les Chinois, en tous cas ceux qui officient dans les gares de bus, c’est souvent plus compliqué... si tu as la possibilité, je te conseille de demander à un Chinois de t’ecrire dans un carnet quelques phrases types qui pourront te sauver de bien des situations (a quelle heure part le bus ? Où est la gare de bus ? Aujourd’hui ? Demain ? Je cherche un hôtel, etc.)
Précision enfin qu’en tant que femme, ça l’a carrément fait de voyager seule.
Bonjour,
Juste pour préciser on peut aller a pas mal d'endroit en minibus. On a aussi fait un peu de stop mais vraiment pas souvent. On est reparti en minibus de Dzongchen, mais c'est vrai que quand on a demande a la guesthouse, la femme nous disait qu'il y en avait pas...
Et comme dit Camille c'est complique d'avoir une vrai conversation si tu parles pas chinois ou tibétain ;)
J'ai écrit des récits de voyage si tu veux avoir une idée : récits de voyages sichuan / kham / amdo
merci beaucoup,
je vais lire les récits de voyage
je souhaite me rendre dans la région de Dzachoukha qui fut le lieu de vie d'un Maitre tibétain "Patrul Rinpoché" que j'affectionne tout particulièrement.
Je souhaite me rendre à Karchong Khormo Olou, le lieu de sa naissance et celui de sa mort.
Je souhaite également visiter la grotte de Yamantaka où il est resté longtemps en retraite qui je crois est située au dessus du Monastère Dzogchen,
le mur de Mani à Palgué
Je me permettrai de vous poser quelques questions
mon voyage est prévu pour juillet et aout.
Qu'en est il de la nécessité de voyager avec un guide chinois ?
est toujours une obligation ?
Bonne journée
Mahalia
En dehors du Tibet central, pas d'obligation d’avoir un guide. Comme tu seras entre le Sichuan et le Qinghai, tu peux normalement voyager seule, en prenant en compte les conditions évoquées précédemment : presque personne ne parle anglais dans ces régions donc ce n’est pas forcément évident pour le transport et pour trouver des lieux spécifiques si tu ne parles pas la langue. A minima, il faut essayer de faire écrire en chinois ou en tibétain le nom des lieux où tu souhaites te rendre.
Tu peux aussi envisager de prendre une agence juste pour une partie de ton voyage par exemple, pour t'aider à trouver les lieux que tu recherches. Plusieurs agences locales sont répertoriées ici : https://tibetecotravel.com/responsible-tour-operators-in-tibet/ Kham Utpala, Jimpa Travel et Gesar Tour sont à minima de bonnes références (le site de Gesar Tour ne fonctionne plus, à vérifier si ils exercent encore car ce serait les plus proches).
Le mur de Mani à Palgué est probablement celui que l’on a appelé sur le blog le Bage Mani (autre difficulté : la plupart des lieux ont des noms chinois et tibétain différents et les translitérations des deux peuvent être très variées !). Ce n’est pas très loin du monastère de Sershu (à ne pas confondre avec la ville de Sershu), lui même à qq heures de route de Yushu (Jyekundo).
Pour répondre à ton autre post, depuis la France tu peux envisager de prendre un vol international directement pour Chengdu puis partir par la route vers Kangding puis Gandze, etc., ou prendre un vol interne pour Yushu. La première solution est a priori mieux pour l’acclimatation à l'altitude; si tu prends un vol intérieur, prévois un peu de temps pour t’acclimater là-bas.
Je te souhaite un très beau voyage !
Reviens ici à ton retour pour partager les détails pratiques à jour :)
bonjour,
merci d'avoir pris la peine d'écrire et mis des photos, tous ces renseignements sont bien utiles et m'aideront.
Le mur à Mani se trouve au nord de la région Dzachouka à 80 km au nord du Monastère de Dzogchen et Sechen
Je vais en effet faire traduire par écrit en chinois et tibétain pas mal de choses pour tenter d'avoir des réponses sur les directions.
Est il possible de dormir chez l'habitant ?
Quel temps fait il en juillet et aout ?
L'endroit où je souhaite aller se trouve à environ 4000 m d'altitude.
je me passerai de guide humain cependant connaissez vous un guide écrit pour bien repérer les routes
Merci +++
En dehors du Tibet central, pas d'obligation d’avoir un guide. Comme tu seras entre le Sichuan et le Qinghai, tu peux normalement voyager seule, en prenant en compte les conditions évoquées précédemment : presque personne ne parle anglais dans ces régions donc ce n’est pas forcément évident pour le transport et pour trouver des lieux spécifiques si tu ne parles pas la langue. A minima, il faut essayer de faire écrire en chinois ou en tibétain le nom des lieux où tu souhaites te rendre.
Tu peux aussi envisager de prendre une agence juste pour une partie de ton voyage par exemple, pour t'aider à trouver les lieux que tu recherches. Plusieurs agences locales sont répertoriées ici : https://tibetecotravel.com/responsible-tour-operators-in-tibet/ Kham Utpala, Jimpa Travel et Gesar Tour sont à minima de bonnes références (le site de Gesar Tour ne fonctionne plus, à vérifier si ils exercent encore car ce serait les plus proches).
Le mur de Mani à Palgué est probablement celui que l’on a appelé sur le blog le Bage Mani (autre difficulté : la plupart des lieux ont des noms chinois et tibétain différents et les translitérations des deux peuvent être très variées !). Ce n’est pas très loin du monastère de Sershu (à ne pas confondre avec la ville de Sershu), lui même à qq heures de route de Yushu (Jyekundo).
Pour répondre à ton autre post, depuis la France tu peux envisager de prendre un vol international directement pour Chengdu puis partir par la route vers Kangding puis Gandze, etc., ou prendre un vol interne pour Yushu. La première solution est a priori mieux pour l’acclimatation à l'altitude; si tu prends un vol intérieur, prévois un peu de temps pour t’acclimater là-bas.
Je te souhaite un très beau voyage !
Reviens ici à ton retour pour partager les détails pratiques à jour :)
En juillet/août vous devriez avoir beau temps, il peut faire frais du fait de l’altitude, le plus simple c’est d’adopter la technique des couches ! (manches courtes/manches longues/polaire).
Côté guide papier, le Lonely manquera un peu de détail. Le Footprint Tibet est assez complet mais date de 2009 donc les routes ne sont plus à jour (ça nous a valu de petites surprises en Amdo)... Si vous trouvez autre chose, je suis preneuse :)
Hi, does anyone know if it's possible to get a SIM card in Tibet in 2025? If not, how can I use the internet there with a French phone? Thanks and have a great…
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
I’m heading to Yunnan in February 2027.
We’ll be traveling exclusively by train since my daughter gets car sick.
Our itinerary includes:
Kunming
Jianshui
Dali
Shaxi
Lijiang
Shangri-La
I’d love any tips, especially other places to visit (without winding roads) or great hotel, guesthouse, or minsu recommendations.
Thanks!
Claudine
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
I’m planning an itinerary for Hokkaido but I’m struggling to decide if late May to early June will be the right time.
Too early for the flower fields but…
What do you think?
Hi,
Our trip is planned for 20 days in Japan next April. We have a free subscription that would allow us to use 35 GB (I’m a bit confused), but we also need to be able to make phone calls with a French couple traveling with us for a few days, and that seems impossible due to cost... Any solutions for using GPS while keeping those 35 GB? Used to traveling in Southeast Asia, we usually rely on local SIM cards. Is it easy to do the same in Japan?
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Tialou
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
Hi,
I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed).
I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years.
Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.?
I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku.
Thanks.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
Has anyone taken the bus recently, especially the Busda bus from Dongsi subway station to Mutianyu or the special tourist bus from Qianmen to Mutianyu? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback!
I’m traveling solo to China on September 18th and I’m completely overwhelmed by all the info out there.
This isn’t my first trip, but it’s still tough to make choices, so I’m open to outside perspectives.
This time, the plan is southern Kyushu with a slightly more off-the-beaten-path twist.
I’m not sure if you’ll be able to help since I’m skipping some of the classics in Kyushu, but you never know.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether this itinerary is realistic in terms of time spent in each place, travel time, and the overall pace of the road trip. Just to note, I already have my translated driver’s license.
Here’s the itinerary:
- **Day 1:** YAMAGA / overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto
Depart from Osaka by train early in the morning to Kumamoto, pick up the rental car, then drive to Yamaga for a visit. Overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto.
- **Days 2–4:** HITOYOSHI / overnight in Hitoyoshi
Drive to Hitoyoshi for 3 days and 3 nights, including a visit to the town, nearby waterfalls, a walk along the Kuma River, a tea producer visit, and some craft activities.
- **Day 5:** AYA / overnight in Miyazaki
Drive to Aya, visit the town, craft activities, the forest, and the suspension bridge.
- **Day 6:** AOSHIMA - NICHINAN COAST / overnight in Miyazaki
Udo Shrine + Aoshima + scenic drive along the coast.
- **Day 7:** MIYAKONOJO / overnight in Shibushi
Drive to a waterfall, then continue along the Nichinan Coast if there’s anything left to see, or visit Kojima Island.
- **Day 8:** SHIBUSHI
Walk around the port and along the Osumi Peninsula coast, maybe as far as the Kishira/Hetsuka coast, or visit a black pork producer, a market gardener, or a tea producer. Overnight at a farm?
- **Day 9:** KANOYA / overnight in Kagoshima
Visit Ogawara Waterfall, Nishiharadai Park, and Kannon Cave, then Sugawara Shrine, followed by the drive to Kagoshima.
- **Day 10:** KAGOSHIMA / overnight in Kagoshima
Explore the city + whisky distillery in Hioki.
- **Days 11–12:** KOSHIKISHIMA / 2 nights in Koshikishima
- **Day 13:** AKUNE OSHIMA / overnight in Akune
Ferry, then drive to Akune Oshima with a stop at Sendai Taki.
- **Days 14–15:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Amakusa
Drive via Nagashima and visit Shimoshima (Amakusa).
- **Day 16:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Fukuoka
Drive back toward Kumamoto with stops along the way, return the rental car, then take the train to Fukuoka.
- **Days 17–18:** FUKUOKA CITY / overnight in Fukuoka
Possible half-day excursion to Nokonoshima, Munakata, or Nanzoin.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Too ambitious?
I could add an extra day but would prefer not to if it means less rushing around.
Hi everyone,
To simplify logistics, I'm considering renting a car for 5/6 days in the Japanese Alps before heading to Kyoto solo.
Is driving difficult or even risky in this region?
Thanks for your feedback!
Tara
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I saw there are several "authentic" villages about 90/100 km from Beijing.
Including: Lingshui, Liuliqu, Sangyu, Miaoying, and Cuandixia.
Has anyone visited any of them? I was thinking of choosing Cuandixia—what do you think?
Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone!
It seems there’s a flea market in Tianjin that’s way more interesting than the one in Beijing. I’ve been searching online but can’t find the right one… The one I’m looking for is called gu wan shi chang (my PC won’t display the Chinese characters…). Does anyone have the address and has anyone been there before? The one in Beijing has lost a lot of its charm over the past 10 years, so I wanted to find another. Thanks!
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change?
thanks
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
I haven’t found what I’m looking for despite my searches!
For a 15-day trip next spring, I’d like to buy a card (preferably an eSIM, but a physical SIM is fine too) that also lets me make calls in the country (to contact a hotel, a tourist spot, etc.).
You can easily find options just for data, but I haven’t come across any that include calls, texts, or even MMS.
Could you recommend something?
hi there
I’m planning a trip in September—here’s my rough itinerary. What do you think? Is it easy to rent a car to get around between my stops? Thanks so much!
Philippe
StopNightsFull daysSeoul44Gurye (Jirisan)43Suncheon43Namhae43Gyeongju21Seoul1—