Traversée du Massif Central à vélo jusqu'à Sète (France)
by Itou
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
cherche a savoir si la grande traversee du massif central(clerment ferrand) jusqu a sete soit 666 km peut elle se faire en autonomie et quelles sont les conditions pour rouler merci prevue entre le 18 avril et le vendredi 28 avril(date importante pour moi).merci d avance et si quelqu un est interresse .........
J'ai fait la partie Aubrac/Sète, en passant par les Cévennes. C'est l'idéal pour le camping sauvage si tu prévois des saccoches assez grandes pour avoir des provisions pour plusieurs jours.
Par contre dans le massif central et l'Aveyron il peut faire très très froid...
Par contre dans le massif central et l'Aveyron il peut faire très très froid...
C'estde la balle cette traversée. Evolution de paysage et décors du nord au sud du massif central, exceptionnel.
Je l'ai fait la première année que le guide est sorti. Maintenant le chemin est balisé. Il faut avoir le guide au cas ou le balisage manque. Nous l'avions fait en 13 jours. 10 est possible a un rythme tout de meme soutenu. Sachant que les sentiers empruntés ne sont pas trop technique (exe^pté qques portions). Totale autonomie possible avec bivouac de reve garantie. Dans ces régions il est facile de piquer la tente tous les soirs ds les champs.
Seulement au mois d'avril tu risque de trouver la neige, surtout cette année. Renseigne toi tout de meme avant. Peut etre prévoir des déviations par route si necessaire.
Dans tous les cas, vas y c'est génial. Bon vent laurent
Dans tous les cas, vas y c'est génial. Bon vent laurent
Une rencontre à l'air sympathique.... 2-3 et 4-5-6 juillet 2011
http://eurovelogex.over-blog.fr/
j'ai fait la partie Saint Flour à Sete l'été dernier, nous étions deux (en couple), en autonomie, et nous avons alterné camping ou gite selon l'envie.
cette traversée est magnifique!
elle alterne des passages trés technique...
http://photo.pinkbike.com/photo/528/pbpic528183.jpg
au milieu de traversées parfois trés roulantes...
http://photo.pinkbike.com/photo/527/pbpic527939.jpg
ça reste quand même du vrai VTT, et le faire "chargé" apporte un plus indeniable!
un copain qui l'a faite l'année précédente a réalisé un site trés bien fait et trés complet a ce sujet: http://rodmontp.free.fr/gtmc/gtmc.htm
bonne balade! 🙂
ça reste quand même du vrai VTT, et le faire "chargé" apporte un plus indeniable!
un copain qui l'a faite l'année précédente a réalisé un site trés bien fait et trés complet a ce sujet: http://rodmontp.free.fr/gtmc/gtmc.htm
bonne balade! 🙂
Salut !
J'ai fait Dieppe-Nîmes et Le Havre-Nîmes il y a qq temps. Je garde un excellent souvenir de mon passage par le Massif Central. Certes il y a les montées, mais quelle récompense à l'arrivée au sommet. Sans compter les magnifiques descentes.
J'ai bivouaqué sous la tente dans les campings. Au mois de septembre il n'y avait pas grand monde. Il est vrai que les soirées et les petits matins sont frisqués.
J'ai fait Dieppe-Nîmes et Le Havre-Nîmes il y a qq temps. Je garde un excellent souvenir de mon passage par le Massif Central. Certes il y a les montées, mais quelle récompense à l'arrivée au sommet. Sans compter les magnifiques descentes.
J'ai bivouaqué sous la tente dans les campings. Au mois de septembre il n'y avait pas grand monde. Il est vrai que les soirées et les petits matins sont frisqués.
Je l'ai fait ...mais en VTT 😉
Je confirme pour avril, il y a de très grands risques d'y avoir de la neige, en particulier sur le secteur du Mont Lozère et Mont Aigoual. Très peu de gites ouverts à cette saison, parfois vite complets si jamais un groupe de cyclotouristes est de passage. Attention au vent, qui peut ralentir la progression et le kilométrage envisagé.
Compte-tenu de ces variables, prévoir de l'hébergement autonome au cas où, c'est à dire tente, réchaud et nourriture pour au moins 24h00.
Et des fringues étanches et chaudes, façon Islande...
🤪
A part ça, les paysages sont fantastiques -surtout entre la Lozère et le plateau du Larzac si on aime les grands espaces.
L'arrivée dans l'Hérault est une claque, les gens roulent comme des dingues, le cheminement à travers les vignes comme le front de mer sont sans intéret Par contre, j'ai trouvé du charme à la ville de Sête 😉
B&R
Je confirme pour avril, il y a de très grands risques d'y avoir de la neige, en particulier sur le secteur du Mont Lozère et Mont Aigoual. Très peu de gites ouverts à cette saison, parfois vite complets si jamais un groupe de cyclotouristes est de passage. Attention au vent, qui peut ralentir la progression et le kilométrage envisagé.
Compte-tenu de ces variables, prévoir de l'hébergement autonome au cas où, c'est à dire tente, réchaud et nourriture pour au moins 24h00.
Et des fringues étanches et chaudes, façon Islande...
🤪
A part ça, les paysages sont fantastiques -surtout entre la Lozère et le plateau du Larzac si on aime les grands espaces.
L'arrivée dans l'Hérault est une claque, les gens roulent comme des dingues, le cheminement à travers les vignes comme le front de mer sont sans intéret Par contre, j'ai trouvé du charme à la ville de Sête 😉
B&R
" Trois vélos ? Mais tu n'as que deux jambes ! " (remarque incrédule d'une néophyte du cycle, découvrant mon garage)
confirmation de Bikeandroll ... superbe itinéraire pour VTT ... avec des risques de neige sur les secteurs les plus haut ... confirmation aussi d'un relatif manque d'intérêt pour la dernière partie.
Le choix que nous avions fait : Clermont (Ferrand) - Clermont (d'Hérault) et le tour du lac de Salagou.
Un bon guide, le "CHAMINAT", décrit l'itinéraire, les temps de roulage, les gîtes possibles, etc...
bonne rando
michel mathieu
www.lethieu39.fr
Salut Itou
Pour ce qui est de le faire en autonomie, il n'y a aucun doute là-dessus comme te l'ont déjà écrit certains. J'ai fait Paris-Toulouse sous le très mauvais temps de la fin décembre (gros verglas et pluie quasi incessante) et j'ai fait une petite partie de ton itinéraire en passant par Clermont-Ferrand. Je voulais le faire entièrement en autonomie mais pour plusieurs raisons, je n'y suis pas arrivé. mais ces raisons n'avaient rien à voir avec l'impossibilité de planter sa tente. Au contraire, c'est hyper accessible. Alors vas-y.
Nous aurions presque pu nous croiser. Je repars de Paris vers le sud-ouest mais dans quelques jour et je repasse par le massif sauf que je suis en train de me dessiner un itinéraire qui passe un peu plus à l'est. J'arriverai à destination un peu avant ton départ.
Bonne route.
Pour ce qui est de le faire en autonomie, il n'y a aucun doute là-dessus comme te l'ont déjà écrit certains. J'ai fait Paris-Toulouse sous le très mauvais temps de la fin décembre (gros verglas et pluie quasi incessante) et j'ai fait une petite partie de ton itinéraire en passant par Clermont-Ferrand. Je voulais le faire entièrement en autonomie mais pour plusieurs raisons, je n'y suis pas arrivé. mais ces raisons n'avaient rien à voir avec l'impossibilité de planter sa tente. Au contraire, c'est hyper accessible. Alors vas-y.
Nous aurions presque pu nous croiser. Je repars de Paris vers le sud-ouest mais dans quelques jour et je repasse par le massif sauf que je suis en train de me dessiner un itinéraire qui passe un peu plus à l'est. J'arriverai à destination un peu avant ton départ.
Bonne route.
Darryl
--
https://twitter.com/Cycl0pathe
il y a encore beaucoup de neige et la température est inférieure à zéro depuis quelques jours dans le sancy! ça peut encore tomber jusqu'en mai. Même si la température s'élève un peu, le vent peut accentuer la sensantion de froid alors prudence!
Sinon je voudrais partir de clermont ferrand pour aller jusqu'à Séte, en cyclotouriste, en traversant les différents massifs montagneux. Quelqu'un a-t-il une route, une expérience à partager?
Sinon je voudrais partir de clermont ferrand pour aller jusqu'à Séte, en cyclotouriste, en traversant les différents massifs montagneux. Quelqu'un a-t-il une route, une expérience à partager?
Bonjour à tous,
Quelqu'un peut il me dire si ce parcour est faisable en VTC ou il est plutôt a conseiller aux VTT ?
Merci
VTT pour l'itinéraire exacte!!!
mais tu peux toujours t'appuyer sur le topos pour la ligne générale de la traversée, et utiliser des cartes pour le mettre a ta sauce, adapté au VTC, et remplacer les passages les plus techniques par de la belle petite route!
c'est largement aussi interessant a faire que de suivre... "bêtement" un topos! 😛
cela dit, il est interessant quand même de se procurer le topos chamina.
bonne randonnée.
merci bien...
En version route, c'est faisable : nous avons fait 850 km en 5 jours, en semi autonomie, avec halte le soir à l'hôtel.
Voir le récit de ma traversée du massif central en vélo de route, de très beau paysages, malgré les conditions météo qui n'ont pas toujours été fameuses, même au mois de juin. Il restait même de la neige au bord de la route, à 600 m d'altitude !!
Leonick
camera embarquée sur l'ironman de Lanzarote, récits de voyages en vélo, Agenda des épreuves d'endurance
camera embarquée sur l'ironman de Lanzarote, récits de voyages en vélo, Agenda des épreuves d'endurance
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I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
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Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
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Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
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Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
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https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
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- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.


Can you take an electric bike on trains in Austria, Germany, and Switzerland?
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Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam. My question is about getting back to Nantes. Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences. I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes. By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains. We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
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I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
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I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
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I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
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One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
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You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
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hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

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Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
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Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
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I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
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Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php

The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php


The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉