Biking Across New York State on the Empire State Trail

Monday, June 6, 2022 Niagara Falls - Medina: Quickly joining the trail! Crossing the border was no problem at the Niagara Bridge. In 10 minutes, I got my passport stamp. Not the same story for the slightly darker-skinned family waiting in the lobby.

The usual question from the officer on duty: - Where are you going? - New York City... by bicycle. - By bicycle... !!!??? Here, bikes really struggle to become part of the culture.



First pedal strokes in US territory To reach the trail, I had to ride about 30 kilometers on the road. I’d already had this experience (see my travel journal on the North East by bike), and it didn’t really convince me. It’s confirmed here—it’s all about cars, nothing but cars, everything for cars. Fortunately, the shoulders are wide, and drivers are cautious and respectful. Well, respectful except... ... for a few idiots who decide that a cyclist with panniers is a road delinquent who lost their license. Hence a few honks that aren’t exactly friendly.

The falls on the American side. Less spectacular than the Canadian side, and... you have to pay

I finally reach the trail in Lockport! The path is often gravelly, squeezed between the forest and the canal. The scenery is pretty ordinary, but it brightens up when passing through small towns along the canal. That’s how it’ll be until Albany.

First break to grab a bite. Not easy to find somewhere to eat healthily at a reasonable price. No choice but McDonald’s (my ethics take a hit), but at least I’ll get a salad. Except... no salad pictures on the menu. I ask if by any chance... but no, they don’t have any here. I settle for nuggets and fries. My ethics take another hit.



Airbnb stay in a house in Medina, a bit outside the city, in a... let’s say average/lower-income neighborhood. Just like my host and her son, and like the house. To make me happy, they offered me dinner. Guess what... Yep, nuggets and fries!

Tuesday, June 7 Medina - Rochester: The Day from Hell

There had to be one (a crappy day), and this was it. Non-stop rain all the way to Rochester, with a headwind to boot. Stuck the whole ride between the straight, deserted, and charm-free banks of the canal and the dense, wild forest. In the background, but only audible, the constant roar of the highway and the eerie blasts of horns from endless freight trains. I didn’t even take a photo, afraid of soaking my precious smartphone and repeating my Canadian mishap (see my travel journal "Northeast America").

An idea of the route in the sun, but without the soundtrack. In the rain, you have to weave between puddles and wild goose droppings. (Photo from the Empire State Trail website)

The American dream. Well, almost...

Luckily, a welcome break in the weather at the end of the ride lets me arrive dry at my host’s place—my first Warmshowers, the long-distance cyclists’ mutual aid network—in Rochester’s western suburbs. Bob is a real estate agent who must work in the high-end market; his wife is a teacher. It shows in their big, typically American house, "home sweet home." Their son, a tall teen with social anxiety, holes up in his room as soon as I arrive.

I never see him again, and his parents don’t say much about him. Dinner, conversation about bikes, of course, with just one beer for me, but quite a few cans for my host, despite his cancer and his weight.

Even when achieved, the American dream doesn’t solve everything...

Wednesday, June 8 Rochester - Lyons: The America We Love

The sun’s back. Well-earned after yesterday’s downpour. As a result, the canal banks seem much more pleasant.

Rochester. The trail avoids the city center. I don’t think I missed much. Passing through the rare towns along the canal is still the most enjoyable part.



New Warmshowers stay near Lyons, at Anne and Carl’s organic farm. I get the full tour of the farm—a little paradise where my hosts are finally living the life they dreamed of. Before this, she was a nuclear engineer, and he was a submarine officer in the Navy.

Carl arrives—tall, lanky, in blue overalls and a wide straw hat, straight out of a Hollywood movie.

Dinner cooked by Anne, entirely with farm products, prepared by a real cordon bleu. I even know the name of the (poor) cow whose meat I enjoyed.

Anne and Carl’s farm. Another side of America and one of my best Warmshowers memories.

Thursday, June 9 Lyons - Syracuse: gray skies, but no rain.

The route remains easy with sections on lightly trafficked roads.





My Warm Showers host is a peaceful retiree who lives in a small house in a modest and very "colorful" neighborhood, up the hill from downtown. I’m greeted by the barking of his three dogs—luckily more friendly than aggressive, but still pretty overwhelming for me, since I’m not exactly a dog person. Still, it’s a classic American welcome: simple and natural.

Friday, June 10 Syracuse - Utica: the two sides of America There's something unique about cycling—it takes you off the main roads. And that, of course, lets you experience the country's reality a little more closely.

On one side, you've got these wealthy residential suburbs, where the "American way of life" is on full display, with their beautiful, ultra-comfortable homes and perfectly clean, smooth streets laid out in neat lines.

On the other side, there are the peripheral neighborhoods of those left behind by growth—places I'd rather bike through than walk. Back home, social poverty is often hidden in vertical housing. Here, it sprawls horizontally, right on the doorstep, in the streets (dirty and poorly maintained). Thanks to the bike, I also get a sense of just how widespread it is—something I never would've guessed. Third-world conditions right at your doorstep. It even makes you wonder how this country manages to be the world's top economic power.

Syracuse A bit of activity around the towns. Otherwise, the trail is pretty deserted. Flat terrain, headwind—no fun at all! Passing through a small town—more pleasant and entertaining Utica: the blues No hostels available in the city. From now on, I’ll have to rely on hotels and Airbnbs. When I arrive around 5 PM, the city is already deserted—its daytime occupants have retreated to their suburban homes. Can’t find a single bar for a quick beer on a terrace. Nothing to see, nothing to do. Totally depressing. Life only picks back up the next morning at 8 AM for breakfast.

Downtown Utica at 5 PM. No matter where I ride in town, it’s the same everywhere

Saturday, June 11 Utica - Amsterdam: America’s punishment

The scenery’s pretty bland—gives you time to think. After some deep reflection, I’ve concluded that America is punished where it sins, namely: - Pollution, of course, especially in cities. - Social inequality, with all its well-known consequences. - And noise! Chainsaws, leaf blowers, lawnmowers, motorcycles, boats, trains... Even when it’s not the constant hum of roads, there’s always some motorized thing to ruin your peace. Downtown blues everywhere Success has to be flaunted, even if it’s a bit much

Amsterdam Nothing like our European version. I settle for a motel perched at the top of a *very* steep hill—I won’t be heading back down for a quick beer on a terrace. Amsterdam: still no real downtown to speak of

Sunday, June 12 Amsterdam - Albany: the Hudson at last!

Not unhappy to have reached the halfway point of my journey. The next part, heading south through the Hudson Valley, should be more interesting. At least, I hope so... It's Sunday, it's baseball The Hudson is getting closer The Hudson (finally!) Albany, capital of New York State (yes, it's not NYC).





A bit austere and... "medieval"

Well, almost...





Another motel for the night. The cheapest ones are far from the center and up on a hill, of course!

Monday, June 13 Albany - Poughkeepsie: "It's so much better than before..."

Okay, I kinda cheated here. I decided to finish by train for the stretch between Hudson and Poughkeepsie—way too road-heavy for my taste. Once bitten, twice shy...

Hudson train station, to skip the road-heavy section of the trail

Poughkeepsie It takes a while to get the pronunciation right. The city prides itself on having the world’s longest pedestrian (and bike-friendly) bridge—just over 2 km. Since I arrived early thanks to the train, I had time to walk it. An opportunity not to be missed. The Poughkeepsie Bridge, once used by cars





Just halfway across the bridge

Stayed in an Airbnb in a middle-class neighborhood. The house was pretty ordinary, but apparently worth a fortune according to the owner—a taxi driver of Indian descent who seems to have done well for himself.

By the end of the day, downtown was already pretty deserted. Only a somewhat sketchy crowd was still out on foot. I eventually found a kebab for dinner and headed back to the safety of my Airbnb. The room was simple, comfortable but nothing special. The price, though? Not so simple. As expensive as a motel. So I figured, for the same price, I’d rather go for a hotel next time—way more space and comfort.

I told him about my slightly pessimistic take on the city. According to him, things have improved a lot compared to twenty years ago. I can’t even imagine what it must’ve been like back then.

Tuesday, June 14 Poughkeepsie - Brewster: getting closer to New York

The pleasant weather makes the ride easier. But the scenery remains pretty dull. Lots of forest.



Here, it's a bit long and not great

A few rare spots for a pleasant break

The Indian success story Airbnb stay. The sprawling house is tucked away in the middle of the forest, in a gorgeous, closely mowed flowery clearing at the top of a hill! Spotless and brand new, it’s a point of pride for its owner, who’s also of Indian origin. A symbol of the American dream. The value for money is much better than yesterday. But the son seems bored and keeps me company for a good while, making polite conversation.

Luxury at a reasonable price

Wednesday, June 15 Brewster - Ardsley: a deliberately short leg

To let me arrive in New York City early enough tomorrow to enjoy this final legendary stretch at a relaxed pace. Still lots of forest.

Stayed in a motel. Simple but decent. For the price of an Airbnb, I got a king-size bed, a bathroom, a TV, Wi-Fi, a fridge, a microwave, and plenty of space. Big thunderstorm and a nasty lightning strike right in the motel courtyard. Good thing I made it in time.

Thursday, June 16 Ardsley - New York: a legendary arrival that didn’t disappoint The stage I’d been dreaming about for so long. Finally here. Overcast skies, a bit uncertain, but no rain. New York is truly right there. The trail is on its own path, shaded by trees, but overwhelmed by the noise of nearby traffic—almost invisible yet dense and close. I pass through the Bronx, the northern part of the city with its edgy reputation. But I make it through without any issues. The GPS comes in handy.

From the Washington Bridge, the route follows the left bank of the Hudson all the way to the tip of Manhattan on a trail, still on its own path, close to but well-protected from traffic (though the noise never really fades). To the left, the bold skyscrapers framing Central Park. To the right, the Hudson with New Jersey on the other side.

Under the Washington Bridge

I’ve been to New York once before, but seeing the city this way is something else entirely. It takes me over two hours to cover the last ten kilometers or so—what I consider one of the most beautiful bike trails in the world.









One of the most beautiful bike trails in the world

Southern tip of Manhattan, the end (or beginning) of the Empire State Trail

I’m staying at a youth hostel in Brooklyn, just a few kilometers from the bridge of the same name. I’ll be here for a few days to enjoy the Big Apple—all by bike, of course.

Friday, June 17 Biking in NYC: an unforgettable experience. Having already visited the city a few years ago, I’ll be skipping all the museums and other tourist sites this time. Instead, it’ll be all about exploring the city by bike.

Wandering the streets and avenues at random is by far the best way to take in the full scale of the megalopolis. New York is pretty well crisscrossed with bike lanes—some in good shape, some not so much, some in dedicated lanes, it varies. Even though drivers are fairly reasonable, you’ve still gotta stay alert.

NYC’s bike lane grid. Not bad for the U.S.

Running red lights—a necessity! Every intersection has its own traffic light. That’s a lot of mandatory stops! For the first few miles, I stop at every red, patiently waiting for the light to turn green. But not all cyclists do the same—if the intersection’s clear, they’ll happily blow through the red. I quickly figured out why: if you obey the lights, you end up moving slower than the cars! So, biking isn’t exactly a time-saver. I soon started doing the same, even in front of cops who couldn’t care less about the infraction.

Biking in NYC: a wild experience The chaotic parking situation also makes life tough for two-wheelers. Bike lanes are the go-to spot for parking cars or vans, even if it’s just for a quick stop. That forces cyclists to weave around every hundred feet or so. I often felt like kicking something… but eventually, it just becomes part of the game. I don’t recognize the usual American civility here, but then again, NYC isn’t exactly the rest of America.

The worst part? Delivery cyclists. They zoom past you at full speed, blast through intersections—green or red—and don’t even slow down if there’s traffic. And on top of that, they’re on e-bikes…!

All in all, biking in NYC is a wild, "rock’n’roll" experience. Despite that, I never felt that uneasy sense of insecurity I’ve had in Paris, for example.

Blazing heat on my first day biking in NYC. I took a long break in Central Park.

Two bike lanes circle the park: one for speedsters (the fast lane), one for strollers. Don’t mix them up.

A tribute to John Lennon: the Dakota building

The Flatiron Building. For the rest, check the many guides...

Saturday, June 18 The other side of the Hudson: seeing the city from New Jersey while riding up the bay

From the tip of Manhattan, a free ferry (yes, really!) takes you to the other side, passing by Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. This lets you ride up the right bank of the Hudson on a beautiful bike path. Plan for a full day for this loop since the trail follows the coastline. Too bad the weather was a bit gray. Port Richmond

A really pleasant bike route (bis)

When Liberty turns its back on you NYC, you can hear it from here Pow Wow A successful wedding Hudson River shark

Return to Manhattan via the Washington Bridge

Sunday, June 19 Jamaica Bay: A beach Sunday

Bike loop around Jamaica Bay and the closest beaches south of the city, on Long Island. Gorgeous weather but a strong headwind on the way back. It was tough! Count on 100 km. The Verrazzano Bridge



Marine Parkway Bridge, to reach the beaches

The beaches on the west tip. Private...

Fort Tilden

The beaches, public this time.

The setup isn’t great

Monday, June 20 NYC by bike (continued): one day isn’t enough

Second day crisscrossing streets and avenues, discovering other neighborhoods. And the weather’s great too. In total, I covered nearly 150 kilometers in Manhattan and Brooklyn.

Bike break to climb to the top of the Freedom Tower $50 to go up—still! At that price, you can stay as long as you want.

Tuesday, June 21 Train back from NYC to Niagara Falls: my New York souvenir

Left in the morning from Penn Station. My ticket was booked a while ago, no issues. The train wasn’t full, and my bike had its reserved spot.

Arrived on time in the late afternoon at Niagara Falls, but the trip took over 8 hours. And of course, the AC was blasting, even though it wasn’t even hot. A few pedal strokes later, I reached the Canadian border just before nightfall. Crossed without a problem, but I was feeling a bit off. Damn AC!

Bus to Burlington (Canada), where my son picked me up. The upside of Canadian buses is they have a bike rack on the front. The setup’s basic, but it holds—even if you can see your bike swaying side to side and up and down.

I still felt wiped out: - You should get tested, just in case... And bam—positive for COVID! My New York souvenir.



Final thoughts on the Empire State Trail Pros: - No technical difficulties, flat route. The road section between Hudson and Poughkeepsie is hillier. I kinda regret not taking it since the scenery’s a bit more varied - The site https://empiretrail.ny.gov/ with detailed route descriptions and accommodations (especially campgrounds) - Discovering an America we sometimes overlook, even if it’s not always cheerful - Arriving in NYC—one of my greatest biking moments - Biking in and around New York, very bike-friendly - Outside the road section, the trail’s kid-friendly Cons: - Mostly the scenery, often monotonous - Background noise - Cost of lodging - Towns in the evening: no center, no life

Hi Dominique, I’m still in awe of bike trips, especially solo ones. Your travel journal, in a place you’d never expect to see a bike, only deepened my respect! Thanks for sharing. Bruno

PS: And how did that COVID situation turn out?

Thanks for the kind comment! For COVID, luckily I was in good hands at my son’s place in Canada. Like many, I really took a hit, but only for a full day.

Hi,

I loved following along through these backyards of America, just like I enjoyed your other travel journals.

Hello and thank you for this amazing adventure! I got to know this entire area during my first postdoctoral job back in 1984. I was at the University of Buffalo and had a bike—the only thing I could afford at the time. People were really surprised to see a bike on the roads, and back then, they were especially cautious. Some didn’t even dare to pass me. For long distances, of course, it was impossible. Your travel journal took me back over 40 years, and that’s a wonderful gift. If I were in good enough shape, I’d love to do your trip in reverse to revisit my dearest friends left behind in Buffalo.

A little nod from a cyclist who solo-biked from NY to San Francisco in 1982 in 75 days and 7,500 km, following the path of the first pioneers. 42 years later, I’m not so sure I could still handle a bike. Medical diagnosis: 'Sir, you’re worn out from doing too much sport.' And it’s true... So, as with everything, I’d advise moderation—but no one will listen... For me, it’s too late. Otherwise, in New York State, I remember losing all my tent stakes after they fell off my luggage rack. It was the first day. It was pouring rain. I’d slept in a construction site and was wondering what the heck I was doing there—I didn’t even know how to change a flat tire. So bravo to you all for this challenge, which keeps the dream alive.