Western USA Oct 2024 - Arches and Other Delights...

Day 2 Alarm set for 5:30 AM, but woke up at 2:30—bit of a short night! Quick video call with the family, two bowls of Special K Almond & Vanilla, then hit the road. Today’s packed with plans—we’ll see how it goes. I had to adjust my schedule because the Moab NPS office is closed on weekends, so I’m cutting a day near Green River to pick up permits for Salt Creek and Fiery Furnace. This morning, first up: a 1.5-hour off-road drive to Colonnade Arch (5 Holes Arch). I love shots taken from inside—really dig that perspective. Then I flew the drone around some nearby arches (it’s allowed here), like Crocodile Rock (apparently losing its points over time) and another cool arch on the way back. Next, an hour of off-roading to Yucca Arch and another one nearby. Totally worth it. The last few kms of the track were rough. Nice little hike though. Back on the trail for about an hour to Wild Horse Window—a double alcove with an opening (so it counts as an arch)—and even some pictographs. But they’re fake! Found that out later from Philippe Schuler. It’s noon, and the sun’s beating down. Then, first by road and then off-road (maybe 2 hours?) to Cache Arch. I’d seen a photo in the NABS magazine that caught my eye, and none of my friends have been there. Turns out, hardly anyone goes there. I mapped out a route on Google Earth using the only track that leads to it. On the way, I stopped by some stunning dunes—unfortunately, the light wasn’t right for photos. I was supposed to hit Cavern Arch and a few others first, but not knowing the condition of the track to Cache Arch, I decided to tackle that one first. If I had time, I’d swing back to the other area. But man, what a track! Tougher in spots than The Maze—no joke. Some insane steps; I had to get out 7 or 8 times to scout the path (thanks, Rubicon’s front hood height...). Then, 2.3 km as the crow flies from the end, an impassable descent. Maybe doable? A 40-45° slope on slippery gray rock, a drop-off at the bottom, and soft sand. Fresh tracks—hard to tell if the vehicle made it through. Judging by the tire width and wheelbase, it must’ve been a well-equipped 4x4. Okay, I turned around as best I could, parked the Jeep to the side and facing the right way to leave, and figured 2.3 km on foot should be doable. Refilled my Camelbak. It’s 4 PM: 45 minutes to get there, 15 minutes for photos, and about an hour to return, so I could redo the tricky parts of the track before dark at 7 PM. The last stretch toward the interstate is easier, but I clearly won’t have time for the other arch area. But here’s the thing—there are "U-turns" on this track. So the straight-line distance starts increasing again... brutal. It’s scorching (32°C). Up and down (hence the "U-turns"). Can’t cut the switchbacks because of little cliffs everywhere. Took me 45 minutes to reach the end of the track. Then I spotted a lifted, widened Rubicon (the fresh tracks)... and no one in sight. Figured they were arch hunters—there are three more within 700-800m of Cache Arch. (I wouldn’t have time to find them except one with the drone.) I reached the edge of a cliff and saw Cache Arch below. 30-40m drop—I looked for a way down, kinda fun, like squeezing through a rock fissure. Pretty technical. Then descended over big boulders. It’s stunning, right on the edge of a towering cliff... What a rush! A few photos, some drone shots, then time to climb back up. And then... no energy left. Maybe I overdid it, and I’d only eaten a Cliff Bar and a fruit paste since 4 AM! Plus this heat! I made it back to the end of the track, exhausted, and saw three people approaching the Jeep. Rushed to catch them before they left—I was totally wiped! (Avg. heart rate of 140 on the way there and start of the return.) And only 180m elevation gain! The guy could tell I was struggling, offered water (I still had plenty). Took me a good 5 minutes to stop panting like a cow. He asked where my car was, I explained, and he offered a lift... I played lazy and said yes! But I figured his wide vehicle wouldn’t make it through the section where I’d parked the Jeep. Still, it took 48 minutes in his car vs. my 45-minute walk there! But I recovered [:P], and we chatted. I love chatting! Turns out he’s a hunter, with his wife and youngest son. He’s from Moab (lucky guy). He was checking for game tracks. We talked about game (he asked what we have in Belgium), Moab, national parks, arches, even Belgian beer (which I don’t drink, lol)... They dropped me off at the Jeep and drove ahead. The return trip was easier—the big steps were in the other direction, so I only had to get out 3 times to check or position my wheels. Stopped near La Bocca Arch—colors were gorgeous just before sunset. Then drove to Fruita, Colorado. Left at 5:30 AM, got back at 8 PM, and added a dozen new arches to my "film" collection... A quick freeze-dried meal in the room—I’m too beat to go out. I’ll fill up the tank tomorrow morning. Great day.

A few photos from today. Gotta make a selection now that the journal’s limited to 300 photos... Over 27 days, I’ve got 11,000 photo files from the R5, drone, and phone (ruins, petroglyphs, pictographs, campsite shots, etc.), 1,782 clicks since I shoot in HDR *and* JPG—7 files per photo for the R5, 2 for the drone, and 2 for the phone. Reason: JPGs are quicker to browse and edit on the go, especially when you can’t recharge the laptop.

Hey Yves,

Your photos are really, really awesome! I’ll be following your travel journal with great pleasure!

Sylvain

Welcome !

When I saw the title of the travel journal on my phone, I thought there was no point clicking on it, since it could only be you... I won’t reread the journal and will just enjoy the photos !

These are the same photos, but edited at home, so they're a bit sharper... ;) Yeah, there's still just as much chatter, if not more!

This travel journal is amazing!!!!

you’ve already read this, huh? ;)

That rings a bell [:P]

Day 3

As I said on Facebook: the best thing for you is to read this at breakfast, given the mouthful! Up at 5:30 AM. Night was a bit better, but still pretty... Video call with family, then departure.

Today’s a big one.

I’m driving toward the Colorado/Utah border, with a few arches to see before my destination for the day. The first one: can’t get close—private road, and drone’s not an option, too far and downhill. I could ask the owner for permission, but that’d take too much time. Too much time. Then Ela Bridge, which might collapse soon—it’s already losing chunks. I should’ve waited for the sun, but I was too worried about the heat for the big hike coming up. Visit to Battleship Triple Arch. A rock formation shaped like a ship, with three large arches. It’s at the end of a private road, but I stop where I’m not visible—the house is at least 500m away. Drone time. Bluebird Arch—meh, stuck to the rock. And a couple of others that weren’t as interesting.

Then a dirt road to the Perseverance Arch trailhead. Ever since I saw it on the cover of the NABS magazine, I wanted to see it. It was—like so many others—planned for 2022 and then 2023, but the weather always had other plans. This time, blue sky—perfect. Hot, but perfect.

I knew the hike mostly follows an old road, that it’s long, and not super interesting the whole way. All true. The temperature went from 2°C in Fruita to 15°C at the trailhead, and they’re forecasting 28-30°C. In fact, I hit 30°C in Fruita at 4:30 PM. I’d filled my CamelBak and put it in the fridge yesterday. 1.5L. I’d also prepped two small Coke bottles. I’m alone at the trailhead. This area gets very few visitors. It starts off well—a gentle downhill slope through a big meadow for 3 km. Not much to see except the cliffs in the distance on either side and some big animal tracks! First, what I thought was a bear—really wide, over 15-18 cm, wider than it was long, with claws. (Confirmed by rangers later.) Then tracks I thought were from a mountain lion (puma), all fresh (the edges were still damp) and following the path for at least 500m. The tracks were in a line, like a cat’s. But Philippe Schuler pointed out it was more likely a bear. Cubs? The rangers I showed the photos to were unsure, but it could only be a bear cub. Okay, stay alert—even though black bears are less aggressive than brown bears. I grab my hiking pole just in case. The trail follows a road still in use farther down on another plateau, heading toward what look like active farms. Fresh vehicle tracks, but the road’s probably private—otherwise, it’d be a much shorter route! Then it starts descending steeply, 10% grade, through rocks. The climb back’s gonna be fun. I reach the edge of the canyon where Perseverance Arch is. I check the GPS map—I don’t see any contour lines that’d let me descend. Oh well, I’ll follow the edge to the left—I’ll be across from it at a higher vantage point. I’ve got my 100-500mm lens. I later spot the way down, but that’d add at least 1.5 hours, and it’s already long. 12.5 km one way... I follow the edge a bit, take my photos, then start the climb back... The best way to photograph the arch from underneath would be to backpack—it’s the only solution. The only people I’ve seen under the arch in photos backpacked. The sun’s beating down. Oh yeah, after 3 km I realize I forgot the Coke bottles in the car. Unthinkable to add 6 km to the planned 25, so I kept going... like an idiot, or a beginner. Well, after yesterday’s mishap, this added another layer... When I use my watch for hikes, I set it to beep every 12 minutes to drink. Otherwise, especially when it’s cool, you forget... but here, you can’t forget. The watch helps manage it. Well, by the halfway point, I’d drunk half my water. But the climb back... steep, and way hotter... oh my god, it got tougher and tougher. I had to take micro-breaks, and when I started again, I’d get dizzy—horrible. I know this is the start of dehydration (I remember Wavemaster’s mishap at Reflection Canyon all too well). My throat’s super dry and irritated. Here, I have no excuse—everyone says a gallon per person per day, and I set out for a 6-hour hike with 1.5L! What a fool! Shame on me! First time in thousands of kilometers of hiking, mountaineering, and mountain biking... I brought the same amount of water as for a long MTB ride, forgetting that on a bike, there are refill spots!!! At the start of the climb back, I see a rattlesnake, coiled up less than a meter from where I was about to step. That wakes me up. Quick phone photos from a safe distance, then it got annoyed and moved. Medium-sized, about a meter long. I keep checking the kilometers counting down, keep drinking the same way even though I’m dying of thirst, and 3 km from the end—no water left... well, it’ll be fine... slow going, but it worked... man, what a slog! Harder than the Lyskamm ridge! Back at the car, I quickly open the cooler and down a Gatorlyte (new—like Gatorade but faster hydration, more electrolytes, and it’s good!), a small regular Coke... and sit in the car’s shade. No wind on top of that... So, total: 25 km and 470 m elevation gain, 370 m on the way back. I’ve got salt all over my clothes, and every muscle’s on the verge of cramping—even my fingers, the bottom of my feet on the gas pedal... don’t remember ever having this before... I even had a really hard time driving on the dirt road afterward because of the cramps in my fingers. Honestly, I wasn’t feeling great, and it’s 500% my fault. After 15 minutes, I start driving again. I was supposed to camp, but for tomorrow, I’ll cut part of the plan. I’d planned two loops for a total of 27-30 km—no way in this heat. My Garmin says 64 hours of recovery! LOL, tomorrow I’ll get up 30 minutes later and just do one loop, adding a few extras... I call Valérie, and my voice has changed! That’s another sign of dehydration—the voice change. For info, I didn’t pee that day or the days after (well, a tablespoon on the second day), even though I drank about 8L of fluids a day... I was turning into human jerky! So, back to Fruita, find a pasta place—nothing in Fruita (well, one, but only Alfredo pasta—yuck), so Grand Junction, 10 minutes away. I try Olive Garden—it’s a chain... never again. The soup (ah, right, Americans do soup or salad with a meal, included in the price): a creamy thing with gnocchi, tastes and smells like vomit (like Primperan, you know?). I know not everyone’s bothered by that taste, but I am. The pasta arrives, with 3 meatballs on top of the sauce—also smells and tastes like vomit! So I wonder if it’s the cheese they grated on top at the last minute—bleh. I eat the pasta anyway—I’m too hungry. Then the bill: extra meatballs—4 $. Wait, I didn’t ask for meatballs, and I only ate half of one! So the nice lady fixes the bill. Anyway, back to Fruita, shower, and write up this stupid story... Tomorrow, arches!!! LOL By the way, backpacking to Rainbow Bridge as planned, with 2-3 extra km than today, 10 kg more on my back, 550 m more elevation gain, and the same the next day—all at a much lower altitude, so hotter—won’t be possible. If the temperatures don’t drop, it’s a no-go—I still won’t see Rainbow Bridge, unless the boat tours start up again... Plus, two days for one arch (but what an arch!) and two small ones on the way isn’t very "efficient" in terms of time/number of arches. Aside on the Rubicon 4Xe Hybrid: Several people asked what I thought. This is the fifth or sixth Rubicon I’ve rented for long-term trips. The advantage of the Rubicon is the bigger, more aggressive tires, which are also more durable, and 4x4 options that other Wrangler versions don’t have—options that can be really useful. At Rugged, these guys only got the hybrid version this year. In 2023, we still had a choice. Plus, I thought I had four new tires—I didn’t check all four. The two on the left are new, but not the right ones (highly discouraged for the differential and transfer case). I was also misled because the rear right was probably overinflated, so it was badly worn in the center, not the sides. While in the US, it’s always available as 100% gas, buying a hybrid Rubicon is heresy... The biggest issue is the 17-gallon tank capacity instead of 21—you have to fill up more often, and in places like The Maze, where I already needed an extra jerry can, it’s not possible without two. The battery was at 0 when I picked it up. Plus, I don’t even know if Rugged has charging stations. It seems to consume a bit more than the 2023 model. Well, yeah, it’s heavier... (end-of-trip edit: 11.5L vs. 8.8L for the same kind of trip) On the other hand, it seems quieter and more stable (well, yeah, heavier!). Dust still gets into the trunk just as much on dry dirt roads, like all of them. The bigger screen is nice, but you can’t have Maps AND Osmand open at the same time anymore—you have to fiddle. The folded rear seats create an even bigger height difference than before—I’d say 15-18 cm! The trunk’s shorter—I’m sure of it. I’ve got the same suitcases, and I can’t fit them the same way. The battery "regeneration," which thankfully can be disabled, is garbage! I tested it—when you turn it on, it brakes so hard on its own (even to a stop, pretty quickly) that on flat terrain, you have to accelerate often, whereas without it, the vehicle’s inertia lets you coast. So it actually makes you consume more! And I tested it on the descent at Colorado National Monument (which is really pretty, by the way)—it gave back 4 km of electric range, which disappeared after 2 intersections! So don’t use it. So, pros and cons, but personally, I wouldn’t buy this. The best so far was last year’s. Even better in 2L than 3.6L. The big plus I’d never had on a Rubicon (but I’ve had on all my vehicles at home for 15 years) is the Easy Entry (keyless, well, in your pocket) and Easy Start. The key didn’t leave my pocket for 27 days.

Otherwise, off-road, it’s still one of the best—if not the best—off-road vehicles, maybe except for the new Bronco, but you can’t find those for rent, except on Turo, and rarely with a hard top. And with a soft top and all your stuff inside, I wouldn’t dare. Plus, Turo doesn’t insure off-road, and it’s not necessarily cheaper than Rugged.

Photos from Day 3

Good evening Yves So happy to see VF taking flight again too. And already two amazing travel journals to follow—yours and Marati’s. Thank you, thank you. Your photos are incredible; I love the arches. Gonna have to plan another trip out west.

Hi Fanny, it’s been ages! Thanks ;) Oh yeah, there are arches on this trip! A few less than last time (when I photographed 184 new ones for my collection in under 4 weeks), but some *really* stunning ones! !

It's great to see some sensible stuff for a change—fed up with those pointless FB groups

Hi Yves, Amazing photos, as always! And such a wild trip, as usual too... I’d rather read about it than be in your shoes Can’t wait for the next part!

Hi Peggy. Welcome! Yeah, still a bit hectic...

Well done.....

Day 4 Woke up at 1:30 AM, shooooort night! No way to catch up on some sleep... I’m gonna pay for my mistake from yesterday today... Even though right now I’m just a little sore. Given the heat forecast, I decided to scale back my plans for today, so I’m having breakfast at the motel—I can afford to leave a bit later.

This afternoon, after Rattlesnake Canyon, I wanted to do the arches at Mee Canyon, but that would’ve been nearly 30 km total, and with the current afternoon heat, I can’t even consider it, especially after my mishap yesterday.

Left Fruita at 6:35 AM and arrived at the Rattlesnake Canyon trailhead at 8:00 AM. The end of the road is still a bit technical—high clearance required. The highest concentration of arches in Colorado is here, around Colorado National Monument.

The hike starts with a descent—darn, I’ll have to climb back up at the end. 80% of trails to arches start with a descent, by the way. The arches are on the edge of a plateau. There’s a dead-end path above the plateau that lets you see the arches from above, and another that loops around the plateau to the end, finishing at Cedar Tree Arch, which is the first one if you take the upper trail.

The plan was to descend via Cedar Tree Arch to reach all the arches the shortest way. Theoretically, you need a rope. I’ve got a 40m rope in the car, but that’s 3 kg extra in my pack, and I’d have to switch backpacks, etc.—so I’m too lazy. I tell myself I’ll try the descent. I go down after the junction toward Cedar Tree Arch and inside it. The light reflection under the arch at sunrise is just stunning. I know the light won’t be as good for the others, but hey, by late afternoon—which is the best time—it’ll be too hot. You can’t have perfect light on ALL the arches at the same time. I start the descent into the arch. The height between the two plateaus is between 40 and 50m.

Slickrock at around 40° in places, but when I get to 3–5m from the bottom, there’s a nearly vertical "shoulder," and I can’t see below... impossible, or at least too risky alone. So I’m forced to climb back up to the junction with the lower trail, descend on the other side of the plateau to the lower plateau, and do the full loop. The other side of the massif has no interest. So I do the arches starting from the end, heading back toward Cedar Tree Arch. Centennial is clearly the most beautiful. Just in time for the light. The others are less impressive, though still interesting. Unfortunately, I forget one—I’ll have to come back (every excuse is a good one...).

Originally, I’d planned to do Trail Arch as well, but today my energy and the heat won’t allow it... oh well. Same for West Pollock Arch.

I reach the end of the trail and approach the base of the arch I tried to descend. It’s super steep at the bottom—you have to go around to follow a small ledge, and then (I couldn’t see them from below with the light shining on them) there are Moki Steps, 4 or 5, just to get past the steeper section, even though it’s still exposed with them. But hey, I make it through, so I save 4.5 km from having to do the full loop, and especially a "spoil heap"-style climb... On the way down, you don’t see these Moki Steps. Let’s just say that going up isn’t really difficult, but going down would be too risky.

The final climb back to the trailhead is torture—it’s way hotter, and I have no strength left. It’s clear I’m paying for yesterday’s mistake; my body still hasn’t recovered from that dehydration! Oh man, what a mess! Something that’s never happened to me before!

Well, there’s a first time for everything ;)

Back at the car by 10:30 AM, I drive back down the road to Fruita to grab some food and rest this afternoon. A few stops along the scenic drive of Colorado National Monument—it’s still really beautiful...

Tomorrow, I’ll head toward Moab. I had to change my plans to move Moab up since the NPS is closed on the weekend, and getting the permit in the morning for Salt Creek and Horse Canyon would be too late. I also need to pick up the permit for Fiery Furnace.

I forgot to post the photo of the rattlesnake I saw the day before.



The most beautiful arches of Rattlesnake Canyon—I’m not posting the others on purpose since we’re now limited in the number of photos on Voyage Forum.

Day 5 Slept a bit better last night. Left at 6:00 AM for the Moab area. A bit of admin to take care of today, but since it’s gonna be 35°C (95°F), I’d rather hike first. I planned to visit Jewell Tibett Arch. The trail is wide at first, then a trickier stretch to reach the parking spot. I can’t remember if I found this route online or mapped it myself, but the trail cuts straight across the contour lines, right through a 100m+ cliff! Lol... Well, I’ll follow the top edge, scramble a bit, and get as close as possible from the opposite side to take drone photos... Gotta take advantage while these spots still allow flying. Didn’t fly yesterday in Colorado National Monument, even though I was alone. No hassle—since Tuesday, I’ve been solo on all my hikes, and barely any cars on the trails, just one... On my way, I spot two cars and two tents at the top of the cliff, much closer to the edge where I’m headed. I’ll check Google Maps to see if it’s a better spot to camp. I reach the edge, spot the arch, and take my photos. Back at the car—parked near two massive RVs surrounded by the usual American toys (ATVs, dirt bikes, etc.)—two dogs run up and jump on me for cuddles. I chat with the guys for a bit. Too bad their generator’s running nonstop (for the AC, I guess), otherwise it’d be a sweet bivouac spot for tomorrow night. I’ll check the spots a bit earlier (where I saw the tents), or I’ll just go there—I’ve got earplugs anyway. After Jewell Tibett, I head to get the backcountry permits for the Needles. Same friendly ranger as in 2022. She checks my bear canister, wag bags, etc., and then, as always, launches into the usual spiel to *strongly* discourage hiking there. It’s hot, it’s steep, no water, lots of vegetation, people get lost because trails get washed out by flash floods, blah blah blah... Seriously, it’s wild how rangers still try to talk you out of backpacking *without even asking about your experience level*! Especially since the permits are already paid for online. No water sources in Salt Creek except near the start (Kirk Cabin), which isn’t helpful since the trail starts with a descent, and it’s easy to carry a gallon of water down to stash at the bottom. No water in Horse Canyon either. Ugh... So she insists we (theoretically 3 of us for Horse Canyon, but I’ll be solo for Salt Creek) carry 2 gallons of water per person—almost 8L... We’ll see. Next stop: the arch by the Colorado River, up high—Little Arch. I’ve driven this road multiple times and never noticed it. On the way, I grab a delicious Subway wrap, super fresh with guac—yum! Then I stock up on drinks since I’m guzzling so much right now. Then off to the Arches National Park Visitor Center to get tomorrow’s permit for Fiery Furnace. Meanwhile, I snagged one online for Sunday. Yeah, Fiery Furnace isn’t a long hike, and I’d rather do it the day before backpacking than tackle something longer. The ranger won’t give me both permits today—total bureaucrat, rules blah blah... So I’ll come back tomorrow if I need to, but if he’s there, I won’t have to sit through the video and Q&A again... Good plan, though, because with a Fiery Furnace permit, you can enter the park whenever you want to pick it up and whenever you want the next day—no need for an Entry Pass (even though I’ve got two). So I head to Ribbon Arch and the others along the way. Crowded parking lot, then no one. Classic Arches—once you step away from the popular trails and parking areas, you’re alone. I wanted to see Ribbon Arch while it’s still standing—it’s super fragile and will collapse eventually. But man, it’s backlit. Checked Photopills for the sun’s path: it’s a spring morning shot. In autumn, even at 8 AM, I don’t think it’s ideal. Back at the parking lot, I download drone and camera photos while waiting for the light to soften before heading to Turret Arch. Saw a heavily edited photo online—terrible sky replacement—but it looked like Turret Arch. Checked in person: AI or heavily modified, I think. Took a few photos, then back to the car. No point going to Delicate Arch for the same shots I’ve taken before, especially with zero clouds—no interest. Not sure where else to catch a sunset, and even though I’m feeling better (dehydration the day before yesterday, I think—third day without peeing despite drinking 6-8L daily!), I’m not 100%. Spotted a road for bivouacking at the park’s edge (Willow Spring), accessible from inside the park. It’s rough in parts. Actually, the camping spots are closer to the highway than the park—always on a slope, often on rock... We’ll see. It’s packed (weekend in October), so I’ll decide tomorrow night where to camp. Back to Green River—35-minute drive, but way cheaper than Moab. Over there, on weekends, nothing under 180 € per night, and for the kind of motels they are (been in a few...), it’s totally overpriced. Tried a freeze-dried "mushroom pasta" I’d never had before... and bam, a faint vomit aftertaste! Very subtle, but noticeable—it’s haunting me... lol In an hour, I’m sleeping, and I still don’t know what I’m doing tomorrow morning. Walking Man Arch? Hall Bridge? Hmm... Current tally: 31 new arches... Today’s photos.

USA 2024 Day 6 Departure at 6:00 AM – better night’s sleep. Still not 100% fit, but we’ll manage. On the way to the Pritchett Canyon trailhead, which I’ve done before but skipped two arches I really want to see this time. Arriving just in time for small views of the Colorado River at sunrise – absolutely stunning! Pritchett Canyon is a long, very tough 4x4 track, only for properly equipped off-road vehicles and buggies. I didn’t see any vehicles last time I was here, except for two motorbikes – it was a weekday. Today’s Saturday, so I’m hoping to see some of the challenging spots (there are several with names like Chewy Hill, Rocker Knocker, etc.). There are quite a few arches along this track, all the way to the beautiful Pritchett Arch, which I visited in 2023. I set off early to avoid the heat again, so there’s less chance of seeing those drivers in action – they’re not early risers. After 6 km of hiking along the track, I take a detour for Hall Bridge, off-trail, with a bit of "loose rock" (rocks shifting underfoot). A steep climb to reach the side of the arch that only comes into view at the last moment. It’s massive and incredibly solid! Stunning! I don’t think it’s possible to get underneath the arch – I took a few photos from above, and everything looks really steep... Photos, drone shots, then back to the 4x4 track, and a detour into a small side canyon to see Troll Bridge. It’s not very big, but there’s a pool of water at its base that makes for a lovely reflection. Drive back – 29°C, with that suffocating feeling in some spots where the canyon narrows. Unfortunately, not much shade... 15 km and some rough patches, 400 m elevation gain, and more rough patches – 3h41 total. Then Moab – Subway – shower at the Lizard Hotel. $4.5, plus a chat with the owner of this old dive who knows... Herbeumont in Belgium! Herbeumont is a tiny village in the depths of the Ardennes. The guy asks if I know Mrs. X who lives there... it’s too funny, like we all know everyone in Belgium. The shower’s because tonight’s camping. It’s still better than washing with wipes. I almost packed the portable shower in my luggage for this trip (water heats up fast in the car in this weather), but nothing’s high enough on a Rubicon to secure it. Then laundry, and a little office corner at the laundromat to download photos and write this. Next up: back to the visitor center for the permit for Fiery Furnace tomorrow, and camping along Jewell Tibett Arch Canyon (a canyon whose name I don’t know). Luckily, the ranger at Arches NP recognizes me, so I don’t have to sit through that video again. I know I’m not supposed to walk on the crypto soil, leave poop everywhere, take rocks, etc., etc. :) After the video, the ranger asks questions to make sure we’ve understood everything before handing over the permit, which we have to attach to our backpack. Part of it needs to be displayed on the dashboard.

Then, I head to the really nice campsite I spotted, not far from the edge of a canyon, at the end of a track with one or two high-clearance sections to keep the crowds away. It’s not accessible for big RVs. So, I’m all alone in the world. Absolute silence. Not a sound, no wind... though no signal either. I guess people prefer camping by the main road but having signal... meh... A wonderful freeze-dried couscous/chicken from MX3 – highly recommend! In just a few minutes, the temperature drops from 30°C to 15°C. It’ll be 10°C tonight. I even slept without earplugs – it was that quiet... The only noise before falling asleep was a rabbit scratching around near the tent... At 10 PM, I take a few photos of the Milky Way – the sky’s perfectly clear... then off to bed.

Day 7 Breakfast by headlamp, back to Arches National Park. On the road, I see the first light of the day appearing, with a huge cloudy/foggy area in the distance. Those who waited for the sunrise at Mesa Arch aren’t gonna have a great time. I arrive at the park entrance, both lines are 500m long, and it’s not even 7 AM yet. You should know that from 7 AM to 4 PM, you need a "time entry" pass per car. You can reserve it either months in advance online or the day before—they release a few spots. On top of that, you have to pay the entrance fee or have an Annual Pass (which lets you into all National Parks and State Parks for a year). And they’re already checking entries! It’s crazy how many people are here…

Headed up to Fiery Furnace, I take a few photos from a viewpoint slightly below the parking lot at sunrise. I notice it smells "weird." At the same time, Thierry messages me: there’s a huge wildfire at Yellow Lake, 300 km north of here, and that’s what it is! The smoke travels for kilometers with the little wind there is. All day, I have this blue haze in front of all the landscapes—you can’t even see the tops of the La Sal Mountains anymore… Sometimes it smells, sometimes it doesn’t. Either way, like when it’s really windy, any landscape photos with a long distance are a no-go! For the arches, it’s okay—it’s not too bothersome.

Before starting the Fiery Furnace loop, I look for "E Arch," the closest one to the trail on my GPS, but I can’t find it… ugh…

Then I start the loop. There are (theoretically) 8 cm arrows stuck at the spots where you need to turn… lol… I think with 10 arrows, they covered the whole 5 km loop! Everyone I crossed paths with had their eyes glued to their phones. And sure enough, without the trail, I totally get why so many people get lost. You have to backtrack regularly. The rangers said every week people get lost…

Personally, I have the trail on my GPS, but I spend a ton of time finding the arches I want to see—some of which I don’t find at all, even when I’m 20m away. They’re probably too high up, so you’d need climbing gear or a higher vantage point… It’s a gorgeous hike, with a bit of scrambling, passages between the walls, etc.—super fun. Under Surprise Arch (also called Skyline Arch), I ask an Israeli couple for help crossing to the other side of the slope (too risky alone), thinking there’s another arch further on. But dead end…

Back at the parking lot. Let’s talk about the parking lot… it can fit +/- 20 cars, but they give out 75 permits a day, plus the people going to the viewpoint… You’d have to kill someone to get a spot unless you arrive super early. Finally, in terms of light, like on all "loops," for some arches it was the right time, for others, you’d want to come back in the afternoon.

I was parked right in front of the trailhead. While I was shaking sand out of my shoes and hydrating, I told at least 15 people to go right, not straight. The signage is set up for the loop to be done counterclockwise, but they didn’t put a first arrow!!! And the right turn is super discreet. So 80% of people go straight on the trail clockwise… lol… The rangers are too much… What really annoys me, though, is their hatred for cairns… In the mountains, they save lives when there’s fog. Sure, we’re not in the mountains. But here, they pave everything, the toilets stink from 500m away in the parking lots, yet they stick arrows on rocks or put up posts! But no, cairns are bad!!! Cairns are evil!!!

To save some energy for tomorrow, I decide not to do a big hike this afternoon, also because of the heat. On the way down to Moab, I stop for a bit of "arch hunting" near a parking lot. No luck. One arch is really ugly (I don’t even take a photo), and I can’t find the other one even though I spent a lot of time looking—the terrain is tricky. I knew in advance they weren’t amazing arches, but hey, when you’re nearby… The sun is beating down, but it’s only 26°C.

Drive to Junghandle Arch, a big arch perched on the cliff by the Colorado River. I spot another arch from afar, less impressive, on the edge of another massif. Since the drone is already out and it’s only 200m away…

Back in Moab, I stop for "fettuccine ragù bolognese" at Antica Forma—sauce is a bit greasy, but the flavor and meat are really good. Before, I always went to Pasta Jay’s, but last year (or was it 2022?) I was really disappointed, both by the service and the quality of what I got.

Buy more drinks (again), refill my empty gallon water jugs for free at Gearheads, then head to Monticello. Closer and cheaper for tomorrow’s start in Canyonlands.

Empty the whole car to pack and prepare my backpacking bag for tomorrow. I remove everything that’s not absolutely essential (just one camera lens, no tripod…) to make room for more water. I think I’ll have at least 8L with me, maybe more. In reality, I’ll leave with 9L. It’s 7 PM, the temperature has already dropped a lot—it must be barely 15°C, and we’re almost at 2200m altitude. Grab a sandwich for tomorrow at Subway. Motel.

Current total: 41 new arches photographed

Happy New Year Yves! Your photos are still as stunning as ever…

Hi Yves,

It’s a real pleasure to read your travel journal and dive back into the Southwest—always so much energy and dynamism, whether in the adventure itself or in your writing. And those stunning photos, well done!

There’s clearly so much more to discover, again and again.

I hope you’ll share the rest of this travel journal with those arches and other delights—I can’t wait to see what’s next!

All the best! !