Voyage en voiture Marseille-Odessa-Istanbul: les incontournables?
by Floh19
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Salut !
Je viens demander quelques conseils pour préparer mes futures vacances.
Je compte faire une belle balade en voiture jusqu'à Odessa, en partant de Marseille, puis redescendre le long de la Mer Noire jusqu'à Istanbul avant de revenir au bercail.
J'ai prévu 4 semaines pour ce voyage et il y a tellement de choses à faire que je sais qu'il va falloir faire un choix ! mais ce choix paraît bien compliqué !
Pouvez vous me conseiller sur les incontournables de ce parcours ??
On compte prendre la tente mais on se dit que l'hôtel pourraît être relativement accessible. Mais j'imagine que ça doit dépendre des pays....
Merci d'avance !
Flo
Bonjour,
En quelle saison votre voyage ? Parce qu'en été, dans ces coins-là, il y a du monde. Quel prix imaginez-vous pour les hébergements ?
Michel
En quelle saison votre voyage ? Parce qu'en été, dans ces coins-là, il y a du monde. Quel prix imaginez-vous pour les hébergements ?
Michel
A ce prix-là c'est bon, oui.
Michel
Michel
bonjour,
j'habite marseille et je reviens d'odessa. c'est la première fois que je vais en ukraine.
je pense d'abord que ce périple est une excellente idée car les pays dits de l'Est ont un charme certain et autre que le Sud. je ne suis pas une spécialiste de l'Ukraine, mais je n'ai pas eu un ressenti terrible sur ce pays, où j'ai séjourné une semaine, soit dit en passant.
il faut savoir que les distances sont très longues en ukraine; on roule des kilomètres en campagne. le réseau routier est très bon, sinon excellent sur les grands axes - ce sont des 2 fois 2 voies (sauf routes de campagne, bien sûr). le niveau hôtelier et resto-routier est comparable à l'europe occidentale, du moins vu de l'extérieur, car j'avais un hébergement privé. vous en trouverez à peu près partout au bord des routes.
la population est russophone et les panneaux, sauf dans l'ouest, sont en cyrillique. vous ne trouverez pas quantité de gens pour baragouiner l'anglais, ou l'allemand. les grandes surfaces sont correctement achalandées, comme ici - vous ne mourrez pas de faim. le niveau de vie est plus bas. la convertibilité est simple: 0.941 GRV = à peu près 1 euro. faîtes gaffe aux flics - les ukrainiens ont en la trouille - c'est un moyen de rançonner les gens. notre chauffeur s'est pris 20 € (je convertis) de PV, avec contrôles des papiers tatillons pendant une demi-heure, etc. n'attendez pas qu'ils parlent anglais !
le code de la route est théorique en ukraine (heureusement que ce sont globalement des bons conducteurs habitués à la route). la ligne blanche est virtuelle. la conduite y est aussi dangeureuse car sur une même journée il y a des variations importantes de climat. il fait soleil puis tout à coup survient une ondée ou un orage qui va supprimer la visiblité et rendre la route glissante.
j'ai aimé odessa, et m'y suis sentie bien. vous ne serez pas dépaysé: c'est le marseille de la crimée. la crimée est un bijou à visiter. d'ailleurs j'aimerais retourner en ukraine, et par avion par odessa et non par kiev.
c'est possible de voyager par soi-même en ukraine, ai-je jugé !, mais il est préférable de bien préparer votre voyage par avance avec les étapes en limitant les aléas. car vous n'êtes plus en UE, et vous n'aurez plus les mêmes protections en cas de pépins. pour les autochtones, n'oubliez pas que vous êtes une pompe à fric (ce que j'ai détesté là-bas), mais je suppose que vous avez déjà voyagé.
pour les autres pays de l'est, je suis allée à prague et à budapest après la chute du mur, et j'ai beaucoup aimé ces villes et ces pays. je n'ai pas du tout eu le même ressenti.
voilà, je vous ai donné quelques infos qui j'espère vous aurons intéressé. mes infos peuvent être intéressantes, cela dépend de vos voyages passés et où, et de votre ressenti. je vous ai transmis le mien, qui est différent d'autres voyageurs que j'ai lus depuis mon retour sur internet. peut-être que je ne vous apprends rien.
bonne lecture de mon message et au plaisir de vous lire peut-être anne
je pense d'abord que ce périple est une excellente idée car les pays dits de l'Est ont un charme certain et autre que le Sud. je ne suis pas une spécialiste de l'Ukraine, mais je n'ai pas eu un ressenti terrible sur ce pays, où j'ai séjourné une semaine, soit dit en passant.
il faut savoir que les distances sont très longues en ukraine; on roule des kilomètres en campagne. le réseau routier est très bon, sinon excellent sur les grands axes - ce sont des 2 fois 2 voies (sauf routes de campagne, bien sûr). le niveau hôtelier et resto-routier est comparable à l'europe occidentale, du moins vu de l'extérieur, car j'avais un hébergement privé. vous en trouverez à peu près partout au bord des routes.
la population est russophone et les panneaux, sauf dans l'ouest, sont en cyrillique. vous ne trouverez pas quantité de gens pour baragouiner l'anglais, ou l'allemand. les grandes surfaces sont correctement achalandées, comme ici - vous ne mourrez pas de faim. le niveau de vie est plus bas. la convertibilité est simple: 0.941 GRV = à peu près 1 euro. faîtes gaffe aux flics - les ukrainiens ont en la trouille - c'est un moyen de rançonner les gens. notre chauffeur s'est pris 20 € (je convertis) de PV, avec contrôles des papiers tatillons pendant une demi-heure, etc. n'attendez pas qu'ils parlent anglais !
le code de la route est théorique en ukraine (heureusement que ce sont globalement des bons conducteurs habitués à la route). la ligne blanche est virtuelle. la conduite y est aussi dangeureuse car sur une même journée il y a des variations importantes de climat. il fait soleil puis tout à coup survient une ondée ou un orage qui va supprimer la visiblité et rendre la route glissante.
j'ai aimé odessa, et m'y suis sentie bien. vous ne serez pas dépaysé: c'est le marseille de la crimée. la crimée est un bijou à visiter. d'ailleurs j'aimerais retourner en ukraine, et par avion par odessa et non par kiev.
c'est possible de voyager par soi-même en ukraine, ai-je jugé !, mais il est préférable de bien préparer votre voyage par avance avec les étapes en limitant les aléas. car vous n'êtes plus en UE, et vous n'aurez plus les mêmes protections en cas de pépins. pour les autochtones, n'oubliez pas que vous êtes une pompe à fric (ce que j'ai détesté là-bas), mais je suppose que vous avez déjà voyagé.
pour les autres pays de l'est, je suis allée à prague et à budapest après la chute du mur, et j'ai beaucoup aimé ces villes et ces pays. je n'ai pas du tout eu le même ressenti.
voilà, je vous ai donné quelques infos qui j'espère vous aurons intéressé. mes infos peuvent être intéressantes, cela dépend de vos voyages passés et où, et de votre ressenti. je vous ai transmis le mien, qui est différent d'autres voyageurs que j'ai lus depuis mon retour sur internet. peut-être que je ne vous apprends rien.
bonne lecture de mon message et au plaisir de vous lire peut-être anne
Salut Anne,
J'ai lu attentivement ton message et je vois que tout c'est bien passé pour toi. Mais j'aurai voulu avoir quelques informations supplémentaires sur le trajet.
Avec un ami, je compte partir de Paris pour aller en Crimée. On est en train de se décider pour la route mais on souhaite aller jusqu'à Bucarest via Prague, Vienne, Budapest, mais c'est ensuite que ça se complique! Depuis Bucarest pour rejoindre Odessa, il y a un petit tronçon de 35km en Moldavie. Le connais-tu? Sinon, peux tu me donner plus d'info sur la Moldavie (visa, backchiche...)? Le départ est prévu le 17/8, on a encore le temps, mais ce genre de voyage se prépare longuement. Sinon, le trajet avant Bucarest, je connais un peu, la suite est une inconnue...
Merci à toi,
Ben
J'ai lu attentivement ton message et je vois que tout c'est bien passé pour toi. Mais j'aurai voulu avoir quelques informations supplémentaires sur le trajet.
Avec un ami, je compte partir de Paris pour aller en Crimée. On est en train de se décider pour la route mais on souhaite aller jusqu'à Bucarest via Prague, Vienne, Budapest, mais c'est ensuite que ça se complique! Depuis Bucarest pour rejoindre Odessa, il y a un petit tronçon de 35km en Moldavie. Le connais-tu? Sinon, peux tu me donner plus d'info sur la Moldavie (visa, backchiche...)? Le départ est prévu le 17/8, on a encore le temps, mais ce genre de voyage se prépare longuement. Sinon, le trajet avant Bucarest, je connais un peu, la suite est une inconnue...
Merci à toi,
Ben
Il n'y a pas de souci pour rentrer en Moldavie, il n'y a pas de visa pour les ressortissants européens, sinon au frontière il n'y a pas de rackets, juste parfois il peut avoir un peu attente pour passer (compter environ 1 heures pour le passage)
Certains voyages mènent plus vers un destin que vers une destination.
je suis allée en ukraine avec une personne qui travaille avec des intermédiaires ukrainiens mais pas en solo.
les échos que j'ai eus sur le passage aux frontières correspond à ce que thierry a écrit. des fois ils peuvent faire attendre des heures et fouiller juste pour faire tourner les gens en bourrique. rappelle-toi que tu vas dans des pays où le niveau de vie est inférieur et où on te considère comme riche.
je ne sais pas s'il faut payer des bakisch ni entrer dans cette logique mais c'est sûr que les intermédiaires payés par mon accompagnateur aimaient bien les dollars et les euros.
j'attire ton attention sur l'ukraine, à savoir essaie de ne pas avoir de pépin mécanique avnt odessa (facile à dire) car tu auras du mal à t'en tirer tout seul si tu ne parles pas le russe.
garde à portée de main les coordonnées de ton assurance-rapatriement (je ne rigole pas) car pour la santé c'est pareil : ils ne parlent pas anglais dans les hôpitaux si besoin (mon accompagnateur a eu l'expérience). moi je gardais mon portable ouvert pour ça.
selon mon accompagnateur, qui a l'habitude de l'ukraine, on y pratique la justice privée; il y a pas mal de gens armés. je ne dis pas pour t'affoler, mais c'est tel qu'on me l'a dit. il y a des coins d'ukraine où les ukrainiens ne se rendent pas seuls, mais à deux minimum (apparemment c'est vers la frontière roumaine). méfiance aussi le soir des gens en overdose de vodka, combiné avec fusil, tu vois ....
donc voilà mon opinion : tu peux le faire en autonomie car sur le plan infrastructure ça va; mais prends en compte les kilomètres sans fin (la fatigue), le racket de la police (même avec les ukrainiens), et va sur le site du ministère des affaires étrangères où on t'apprendra que les étrangers ne sont bien inspirés d'aller se plaindre à la police.
voilà en gros les points sur lesquels je voulais attirer ton attention, mais ceci étant sur le net j'ai lu des témoignages de gens très contents de leur voyage à lvov, par exemple. bon voyage. de toutes façons tout voyage est une prise de risque mais aussi une aventure vers soi-même et vers les autres. tiens-moi au courant éventuellement à ton retour si tu le souhaites. anne
voilà en gros les points sur lesquels je voulais attirer ton attention, mais ceci étant sur le net j'ai lu des témoignages de gens très contents de leur voyage à lvov, par exemple. bon voyage. de toutes façons tout voyage est une prise de risque mais aussi une aventure vers soi-même et vers les autres. tiens-moi au courant éventuellement à ton retour si tu le souhaites. anne
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Proof: https://etreounepasetrebretillien.com/2018/03/19/moldova-mea/ 🤓
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It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
Proof: https://etreounepasetrebretillien.com/2018/03/19/moldova-mea/ 🤓
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I’d rather take my time.
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Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
hi
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
Maya and Sullivan
Maya and Sullivan
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
Thanks!!
Thanks!!





