A trip to Australia: Far North Queensland

Translated into English.

Original post
JL
Thursday, November 9, 2023 Cairns

TV scriptwriters are a funny bunch. As soon as their ordinary mug starts becoming recognizable on the street thanks to success, their egos start swelling. They walk on clouds. So, one of the guys who worked on the script for our trip—the one who specifically came up with the bit about the SD card being ejected into the great beyond—has built himself a nice little reputation. The kind that can sometimes launch a real career. Then, inevitably, they just can’t stop. That’s how this guy had the poor idea of adding one last twist to the sequence that made him a one-day star. An idea that’s basically about squeezing the lemon until the very last drop, if you know what I mean. The little bag I take everywhere with my essentials—car keys, camera, phone—has also hosted a bunch of secondary items over time. Tissues, a book, city maps... whatever. It became a mess! So I finally decided to sort it out. I empty it onto a table. And there, stunned, I find the memory card that Dom and I desperately searched for on all fours on Cahill’s Crossing walkway, remember? Under the shocked gaze of a little Australian girl. It had ejected straight into my bag! What do you think? Should we fire the scriptwriter? It’s way too improbable! Stuff like that doesn’t happen in real life, right?

We head out to explore Cairns. The city is mostly about the waterfront, the Esplanade. You’ll find tons of bronze plaques there, most of them in memory of a deceased loved one. All you have to do is shell out a few hundred euros, and one day, a bewildered tourist will read your prose, charmed by your lovely turns of phrase. Vanity is a thriving business!

It makes for some reading... We spot our parakeets again... What were they called? Oh right, in abundance! Everywhere, banyan fig trees provide shade from a sun that never seems to tire. Parks... Here, kids are king. Luxury hotels with their infinity pools...

You don’t know where to look first... You’ve got to go all out. Google... Where can we rent bikes? When we finally track down the only operator in town, we find the place closed. A bit further on, a Visitor’s Center might find us an alternative? We meet a charming young guy, super dynamic and a great communicator. We leave without bikes but with a full snorkeling package for the day after tomorrow! I call the shop that let us down... Well done! The owner was at the doctor’s; he’s back now, and we can make a deal!

- Oh, Dominique, where are you off to like that, so proudly and at full speed? - Me? To the Botanic Garden, of course! It’s huge and free!

They’ve recycled oil tanks into art galleries!



JL




You’ll also come across plenty of Australian bush turkeys, better known as the Latham’s Brush Turkey. …











JL
Re: A trip to Australia: the far north of Queensland














Then we went back to the esplanade. At the very end of it, since swimming in the sea is banned because of crocs and jellyfish, they built a huge public swimming pool. Free. Australians are so cool!

After that... We were surprised to see there’s quite a nightlife scene. We got there at midnight, and let me tell you, it was dead at that hour. But between sunset and late at night... it’s hopping!

JL
Friday, November 10, 2023 Cairns – Port Douglas We returned the bikes, then went to pick up the rental car. It’s pretty much the same one, a Toyota Kluger. After that, there’s barely an hour’s drive between Cairns and Port Douglas. We’ve stepped it up another notch in terms of chic beachside resort vibes—it feels like somewhere on the French Riviera. It’s shop after shop, restaurant after restaurant, bar after bar… There’s not much left that’s truly Australian.



I look like I’m sulking, but there’s no reason to. It’s a change from our backpacker evenings! The hotel is probably the nicest on our long list—pretty and comfortable too!

We’re back in the tropics with the sunset. The trees are swarming with an army of hyperactive parrots—the noise level of their chatter is incredible!

JL
Saturday, November 11, 2023 Port Douglas Today, we're at sea. Had to get up early. We have a meet-up at the Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina in Port Douglas. Our boat is absolutely massive, and the crowd is reasonable. Dom and I are sharing the upper deck with a few occasional visitors—it’s peaceful (just roasting under the sun). Every now and then, the swells and sea spray remind us we’re actually at sea.

We’re cruising at full speed! The Great Barrier Reef is an hour and a half away. We drop anchor, slip into wetsuits because of the potentially (but unlikely) deadly jellyfish, grab a mask, snorkel, and fins. Dom and I add one of those pool noodles we discovered during our boozy aquatic adventure at Lake Argyle—it really helps with buoyancy. Right away, I run into my usual snorkel problem. First breath, I swallow a mouthful of seawater. I head back to the boat to get it changed while Dom takes off on her own. I won’t find her again, but the show is more than worth it! It’s like a giant aquarium. She’s absolutely thrilled—even crossed paths with a beautiful turtle (pfft!).

An hour of snorkeling, then tea, cake, biscuits, and fruit.

From the boat, we head to a second spot for another hour.

The buffet was decent (healthy options), then back on the boat for another hour of snorkeling before heading back.

We had to change hotels because Villa Michele was overbooked. Found a really nice apartment-style room just 6 kilometers away.

Still, we went back to the main street because the parrot festival there is incredible. At dusk, hundreds of these little birds arrive, and the noise level forces us to shout to hear each other!
JL
Sunday, November 12, 2023 Port Douglas – Cape Tribulation We had Italian for dinner last night. Our table neighbors, some Australian retirees, struck up a conversation that drifted into big ideas about the meaning of life and all that. They recommended a walk that circles the whole cape around Port Douglas. So we kicked off the day with this truly beautiful stroll between the sea and the forest…

We followed the coastline…

It’s home to the famous killer jellyfish. They set up protective nets to keep them away. The small protected area is monitored by lifeguards who seem very attentive. It feels like a serious threat!





We ended up at a hippie market with a crowd of tourists buzzing over some spiritual offerings…



Everything’s fair game to squeeze out some cash…





Then we hit the road again. The landscapes are radically different from what we’ve seen so far. It really has a bit of a Réunion vibe overall…
JL
There’s a ferry to cross the Daintree River. After that, it’s the jungle—the territory of the terrifying cassowary! !

It’s the rainforest, the wet jungle! Run away! It’s way too dangerous!!!













JL
We arrive at our cabin, a real mini-villa nestled in the jungle‚



Night falls here, and the parrots turn into terrifying little nosferatus!



The local grocery store. You help yourself and leave the cash in the box. Easy‚

Tonight’s menu: crocodile, kangaroo, and beef! On the way back, loads of huge toads. A kid explains that these cane toads are super venomous and a real plague in this region. They were imported from Hawaii in 1935 to fight a beetle invasion attacking sugarcane fields in Queensland. Total fail because the cane toad couldn’t jump high enough to catch them. Bad luck, they started attacking everything else instead. This pest is harmful from birth—tadpoles poison the fish that eat them. As adults, they have glands full of venom that can paralyze a dog in 15 minutes. Victims of this predator include lizards, snakes, mice, frogs, small marsupials, and more. They’re even blamed for the disappearance of the marsupial cat in Kakadu National Park. In the end, this big amphibian has gradually invaded Australia, eating and poisoning countless animals along the way‚ We try to cheer ourselves up‚ Back in the tropics‚ Geckos and cockroaches are back‚
TI
Oh nooo! I can't believe it. My Christmas present ends here? Last stop before 2025? I'm hooked! (the feminine version of "addicted")

Well, the screenwriter is talented, and so is the writer. I love this cabin in the jungle. No snakes? No cassowaries? I searched everywhere for the rest—on my desk, under my desk, in the attic... You’ve got to face it, girl, you’ll have to wait until next year!

Still, I’ve got to go back to that place.

Heeelp...!

Happy holidays anyway!
Chris

"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage? Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
HE
Well, I was hooked too (masculine form), but I hadn’t noticed—shame on me—that there was a sequel under different titles for this fast-paced story.

So I’ve got one up on Chris, aka Titaille, because I’ll get to dive back into the adventures of this talented writer and his brave assistant, to whom I wish all the best in 2025! [:)]
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
TI
Hi Hetodotos (Herodotus clone?) Oh, I actually saw the next part—I even started with another episode. Well, out of order works great too. But I’m waiting for the rest of the rest. 😄😍

Happy New Year, everyone!
Chris

"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage? Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
JL
I spent about 15 days with family over the holidays and somewhat neglected this travel journal. A few visitors kindly expressed their interest in continuing this Australian adventure with us, which obviously makes me happy. So, thanks to them, and happy New Year to everyone!

To clarify, here’s the timeline:

A long trip around Australia A Trip to Australia: The Northern Territory A Trip to Australia: Far North Queensland

Monday, November 13, 2023

Cape Tribulation A long walk through the rainforest on the Kulki Boardwalk toward Myall Beach, then the Dubuji Boardwalk.









JL














After covering 5.5 kilometers at a snail’s pace... Quick break! We spot the bats, still calm.

On the way to the restaurant, Dom shows me a monster she found during one of her solo wanderings (she loves this place!).

JL
You get the idea! Matthiew, a friendly young guy, spots us and shows us more… Giant huntsman spiders! Here, they have fun tossing cockroaches at them and cracking up as they watch the spiders literally explode the insect before wrapping it in a silk shroud, storing it for a snack later…



Matthew’s cool—he’s a trained carpenter with an English mom. He’s working here with the goal of becoming an Australian one day (he recently became a dad to a little baby with a local woman) and setting up his own workshop. He shows us other critters like these stick insects/praying mantises…

We have dinner… Then it’s time to get ready. We booked a night watch! A nocturnal walk through the jungle… But first, it’s nearly 7 PM, and suddenly the bats wake up… There are *so* many of them (though not photogenic, lol)! The night watch is led by a very young nature enthusiast. She knows the forest like the back of her hand! We meet up with our young Dutch neighbor, who’d explained the story of the toads, and a Parisian family visiting their son, who recently moved to Melbourne.

A spider’s hiding on this tree trunk. Can you spot it?



And this one on the leaf, next to the butterfly?





A slightly frustrating night watch. The small mammals we glimpsed are *super* skittish. They go *whoosh*! You’ve gotta have the eye of a tiger! In the end, we only saw the critters that stayed still—and that wasn’t many people at all!
JL
Tuesday, November 14, 2023 Cape Tribulation - Cairns We're heading back to Cairns. Nearly three hours on the road. At breakfast, we chat with our charming neighbor, then pay one last visit to our monster friends… Then it’s the three-hour drive back down to Cairns, including the ferry to cross the Daintree… We’re happy to be back in the city. We quickly rent bikes again from the slightly worn-out young guy who loves talking about grape varieties and only rents them out over the phone. We check out the art museums… Some modern stuff with references to Duchamp…

Not really my cup of tea! We got lost near the yacht club. It’s insane over there! A young girl explains that’s where the yachts of wealthy billionaires are, including Bill Gates’… No matter, I’ve got my own assets. Like my sandals with built-in bottle openers in the soles—the vital tool that can save lives! (the Australians…)

French gastronomic culture is well represented (and highly valued in good, big Australian dollars, too!)



The Esplanade and its very popular outdoor "gym"!

And then, as evening falls, the magnificent parrots and their hysterical squawks!
JL
Re: A trip to Australia: the far north of Queensland
Next up on the trip: A journey to Australia: New South Wales

TI
Hello and thank you for this follow-up, and my big-format wishes for the next one and for future trips!

I’m still hooked despite the horror museum that gave me nightmares. And at night, it’s even worse. But I really like the bats as big as rabbits—I also ran into them at Katherine Gorge, and they even treated me to their droppings on my sunglasses while I was photographing them! Luckily, I had my mouth closed…

See you later, and have a good evening,
Chris

"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage? Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
JL
Thanks Titaille! Happy New Year to you too, and smooth sailing for 2025, with all kinds of new adventures, near and far!

You might also like