Martine from DD in Arizona and New Mexico

Day 20 Sedona: West Fork Oak Creek Trailhead (continued)

As we move forward, the sun becomes shyer and the sky darkens. We retrace our steps, scampering quickly over the rocks and logs. There are even bamboo plants!

And always these ledges worn by the water.

The sky is getting grayer and grayer. One drop, two drops, three drops... they’re becoming more numerous, bigger, and closer together. Quick, the camera goes into the bag, the Gore-Tex goes on, and we keep going. Even when wet, the rocks aren’t slippery.

The shower won’t last long, and we’ll finish the hike with the sun. We happily rediscover the shades of green. Too funny!!! Here’s DD matching the landscape!!!

We pass by the little ruined cabin again. And the orchard where nature still amazes us with its resilience—look at this tree with a completely hollow trunk that still finds the strength to offer us its apples. It took us 4 hours and 30 minutes to cover the 13 km. What a magnificent hike!! A little regret that we couldn’t spend more time following the river because of the rain that seemed determined to spoil the fun. We take the picnic out of the trunk and enjoy it in the gentle Arizona sun. A quick stop at Midley Bridge. The sky has clouded over again, and raindrops are falling once more. We’re back at the guesthouse. I had planned to do the Secret Slickrock Trail late this afternoon to see the sunset over Cathedral Rock, but DD doesn’t want to go out anymore. It’s been almost three weeks of me getting my way, so I don’t insist. Besides, given the color of the sky tonight, I’m not sure it would’ve been very pretty anyway. We brought back two takeout boxes from yesterday’s Indian restaurant—we’ll eat them at the guesthouse. Tomorrow’s our last stop before flying back.

Hi Aline [:)]

I finished my 20th day and uploaded the photos. We’ve been really lucky with the weather since the start. The bad weather followed us without catching up.

We managed to "dodge the raindrops" most of the time, as you put it, and in Sedona, we were able to do the 3 hikes we really wanted to do.

This place is so beautiful. Like in Moab, you could spend days and days here—there’s just so much to see and do.

It’s not always easy dealing with our guys 🤷. Mine hates trails, so I sneak a few in now and then, but sparingly.

Have a great rest of the afternoon! Martine [:)]

It’s not always easy dealing with our guys 🤷. Mine hates trails—I sneak a few in now and then, but sparingly. Have a great rest of the afternoon! Martine [:)]

Well, for me, it’s my wife who doesn’t want to set foot on Route 66 anymore—go figure!

Hi Martine! Same with mine and the trails... too conscientious at the wheel, and I’d planned a few trails but left the surprise for when we got there!!! Even for hikes, I’m more of a "go-with-the-flow" type than he is

To Dennis and Grillonne. Ha ha ha!!! Planning trips as a couple. Especially since each has their own role, and since usually only one does the prep, the other doesn’t always see the point of choosing this over that!!! [:/] It’s not always easy to keep everyone happy without compromise, but we manage. [;)] Martine [:)]

Day 21, September 29: Sedona - Gilbert Holidays Inn Express & Suites: 128 euros for this hotel with breakfast and spa about thirty kilometers from Phoenix Airport

Last stop before heading back to France tomorrow. There were two possible routes to Phoenix: either take the Red Rock Scenic Byway again or visit Jerome, a small, almost ghost town clinging to the side of a hill, before catching I-17 South. On a friend’s advice, we decided to go with Jerome. Visiting one last Western town sounded like a great idea. What a good call! We really loved this quirky little village at 1,500 meters above sea level. We’re not in a rush—the check-in isn’t until 4 PM—so we take our time, hang out a bit, and call the kids. We hit the road around 9:30 AM. As soon as we leave Sedona, the red rocks disappear. We can still see them in the distance beyond the plain.

Jerome Soon, the road is surrounded by tall buttes, and we spot the village right in the middle of a hill covered in small cacti and bushes.

Jerome is said to be one of the most haunted towns in the United States. The high number of deaths (around 9,000 between 1927 and 1950) at the hospital for miners working in the copper, gold, and silver mines is said to have left many restless souls still eager to make their presence known, much to the delight of ghost hunters. You can find them in most of the old buildings. True or not, the town plays it up and has turned it into a draw for tourists. Like many mining towns, it nearly disappeared in 1950 after the mines closed, dropping from 15,000 inhabitants at its peak in 1920 to just 100 by the late 1950s. Luckily, it bounced back by shifting to tourism (especially by leaning into the paranormal), crafts, and art. We wanted to start at the Audrey Head Frame, but unfortunately, it’s closed for maintenance. We carry on to the Jerome State Historic Park and the Douglas Mansion next door. We admire the large rocks colored with azurite and malachite and the old copper mine equipment, but we’re not really in the mood to go inside—we’d rather wander around town. But first, we head to the Jerome Grand Hotel (though we can’t find the entrance), and it’s cool to see the buildings from the top of the hill.

We find a big free parking lot near the fire station at the top of town, right next to the old mining infrastructure. We park the car and head to Main Street, just a few steps away, but first, we stop at a restaurant because we want to eat before the rush. I’d spotted the Haunted Burger with its skeletons on the roof welcoming us. It’s already pretty busy, but the wait isn’t long. Their homemade burgers are excellent, the welcome is warm, and the decor in every room fits the town’s theme perfectly. Apparently, a friendly ghost has set up shop there. We feast for $76 (two burgers and a mountain of sides, one beer, and one diet Coke). Alright, let’s walk a bit to digest—especially since we saved a little room for dessert. The weather’s mild, and it’s really nice strolling through these little streets winding up and down the hillside, climbing and descending the narrow stairs connecting the blocks. Or this old brothel turned into a restaurant, then an art gallery and shop. We window-shop until we reach Cooper Country Fudge to enjoy some excellent ice cream and take home a huge piece of fudge. Everywhere you look, there are nods to skeletons and ghosts. We make a quick stop at the Sliding Jail, a prison that slid 69 meters down a main street due to blasting in the copper mines and could slide again because the hill is unstable.

There’s still more to discover, like the spot where the real Ghost Town is and the charming old-timey chaos that comes with it, but it’s time to go. At 2 PM, we’re on the highway heading to Phoenix. After miles of desert with stunted vegetation, we’re happy to see the buttes lining the highway and, even better, the saguaros that we loved so much. At 4 PM, we’re at the hotel. This city is so spread out! Since arriving on the outskirts of Phoenix, the miles of multi-lane roads going every which way have felt endless. This isn’t our scene at all! We were so much happier on our trails! We need to find a laundromat to clean our car. The young receptionist points us to one right near the hotel. DD wants to fill up the tank, but I suggest waiting until tomorrow so we can return it full—we saw tons of gas stations on the way. Tonight, we’ll finish off our leftovers from lunch at the tables near the hotel pool before packing our bags. Vacation’s over—tomorrow, our flight to Paris leaves at 3 PM.

Day 22, September 30: Gilbert Sky Harbor

Day 22, September 30 – Phoenix Airport

A relaxed wake-up and morning. We’ve got time—suitcases are packed, the car’s due back by 11 a.m., and we’re only 30 km from the airport. Knowing DD, I didn’t plan anything for this morning. Oh, right, we still need to fill up the tank, but gas isn’t exactly scarce in Uncle Sam’s country. Last American breakfast, and we hit the road in search of that precious liquid. We drove a few kilometers, and not a single gas station in sight!!! Where did all the ones we passed yesterday go?! Well, we were coming from the west then, and now we’re heading east. Plus, we got on the highway as soon as we left the hotel!!! Oops!!! Disaster!!! I think DD was right. I should’ve listened when he wanted to fill up yesterday!! I can feel the stress rising in the car as the minutes tick by. We need to get off the highway. We park and ask Here We Go. Bingo—a Shell station 500 m away, cool!! We get there fast, and I check the price on the pump: $5.99 for a gallon of regular!!! Yikes!!! That stings!!! Nearly double what we paid throughout the road trip!!! Let’s look on the bright side—Hertz would’ve charged us even more if we hadn’t returned the car with a full tank. No issues returning the car, and now we’re on the plane, waiting for takeoff. I’m reflecting on our road trip. Once again, I was worried this trip—the 6th one—wouldn’t be as *wow* as the others, but nope, we saw so many gems and loved our little encounters with Americans, whether on a hiking trail or at the next table in a restaurant. I could totally do another one next year!!!! Why not!!! Well, I’ve reached the end of my travel journal. I hope it can help future travelers with their planning. Don’t hesitate to reach out, even via PM if you see I’m not responding—if I can answer your questions, I’d be happy to. Thanks to everyone who read my posts, even the lurkers, and even more to those who left little notes. Wishing you all a very happy 2026, with or without amazing trips. Take care of yourselves. Oh, by the way!!! Good news!!! Flight, hotels, and car booked for a 3-week loop in California! Ha ha ha!! I’ve convinced DD to go again using the argument that our ESTA and America the Beautiful Pass are still valid. I’m counting on you all to answer my questions. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for taking the time to do this kind of travel journal...

It makes me regret skipping some places I could’ve visited, but hey, we don’t all travel the same way—that’s what’s so interesting when I read your posts!

Hello!

I was one of the "submariners" Thanks for your travel journal [:)]

Hi Martine,

Another lovely travel journal—so enjoyable to read—and a new trip that’s packed with adventures! [:)] I love the idea of closing one chapter while already having a new project in mind. You’re going to have a blast in California. I went there in June 2023 with my English teacher, who’s Californian (yes, the 2020 trip with my husband that got canceled turned into a group trip instead). We rented a house for five people near her sister’s place in Sacramento. Her family and friends showed us around the area for 15 days. A few ideas, though I’m sure you’ve already got your itinerary sorted [;)]: The 17-Mile Drive is breathtaking, as is the nearby village of Carmel. Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is also really worth visiting. I don’t know if you’ve planned a stop in Sacramento, but the California State Railroad Museum is incredible—I could’ve spent hours there. There’s also a great auto museum. We were lucky enough to go sailing with one of their friends who owned a boat in Monterey Bay. We saw dolphins and whales—it was magical! Lake Tahoe is amazing too! Her brother-in-law, who loves Yosemite, was determined to take us there, but the park had just reopened. Some French travelers we met in San Francisco had just come from there and were really disappointed—the ground was soaked from heavy winter snowfall, and smoke from the previous summer’s wildfires was still lingering… plus, there was at least a 2-hour wait to get into the park because it was so crowded! So we scrapped the idea since we were only going for the day. You’ll have better luck than we did! You’re also going to love seeing the giant sequoias. [:)] Here’s a little taste of California!

Have a great evening and happy planning! Aline

Hi there! [:)] To Dennis: you’ve only got one thing left to do—reschedule a trip! To Caussat: so happy to see a familiar username from when I was planning my first trip to the United States back in 2017. To Aline: thanks for this great post. California was our first real encounter with the country (aside from Hawaii, where we were more after that Polynesian *mana*). We missed Tioga Road and Yosemite because of a storm that blew in from Yellowstone on September 20, 2017. Apart from Bodie and San Francisco, which we’ve already visited, every other stop will be a first for us. We won’t be stopping in Sacramento. We’re planning to head straight from SF on the day we arrive to spend the night in Davis (a stopover town), and the next day, we’ll head out for our 4-night stay at Lassen Volcanic National Park. I’d read that the train museum was really good, but you’ve got to make choices. See you soon! Martine [:)]

thanks for this beautiful story!

Thanks, Martine, for sharing your amazing trip with us. Your photos are stunning! So many places I didn’t know about. You’ve given me ideas for my next trip!! As soon as I’ve done the one I planned last year (and had to cancel for family reasons—Denver to Moab loop via Yellowstone)... Happy planning for California! M. Martine

I really enjoyed reading your travel journal. I’ve been there twice but don’t know the places you described here—it’s giving me ideas! Have a great trip in California!

Good evening! [:)] For Jasmin, Emcycy, and Torpan That’s so sweet!! Happy if it gives you ideas for your next trip. Have a great weekend! Marcalamar [:)]