Masai Mara and Melting Pot Safari... So disappointed!
FR

Translated into English.

JI Jijicques ·
Oh, thanks for your feedback! I know you can also go there on a self-drive trip. I’d be really interested in Tanzania, since I’ve never been and, like many, I dream of the wildebeest migration. Kenya also appeals to me if you’ve had incredible safari moments yourself—especially if you’ve been lucky (and maybe experienced) enough to spot animals without being packed in with 50 vehicles around one poor creature... I’d love to hear about everything: campsites, local guides if needed, and vehicle rental agencies. Thanks a million in advance for sharing!

In five weeks, we did a self-drive trip through Kenya and then Tanzania. Personally, I have fonder memories of Kenya: friendlier interactions with locals, more reasonable prices, and incredibly varied landscapes. We rented a Dacia 2WD, which worked fine in the dry season, even though a 4x4 is required for the Masai Mara... We booked a nice, affordable apartment through Airbnb in Nairobi for three days. From there, we picked up our vehicle and reserved hotels for the next three nights. Nairobi is a city with plenty of interest—don’t miss the African art gallery by Jane Goodall... Next, we visited the Fourteen Falls. A nice first stop.

After that, Meru National Park blew us away—it’s a stunning African park where we saw elephants, oryx, kudus, zebras, giraffes, eagles, vultures...

Samburu National Park is gorgeous: cheetahs, lions, elephants, impalas, ostriches...

Between parks, we stopped at local markets to stock up. The welcome was warm, and prices weren’t inflated for us tourists.

My absolute favorite was Lake Nakuru National Park. The atmosphere is so unique, especially the light at 7 AM, and the flooded area (impalas, rhinos, marabous, pelicans...) was magical. There’s a great campsite nearby, right by Lake Naivasha—cheap and perfect.

Aberdare National Park was less exciting: dense vegetation made wildlife hard to spot. The campsite was overpriced and barely adequate. A total rip-off.

Tsavo West National Park is stunning with its red sand. Same for Amboseli, where you can see jackals, lions, elephants, hyenas, and Maasai herding their livestock.

The Masai Mara was a letdown: too crowded, expensive, and impossible to witness the wildebeest migration on a self-drive trip without a guide. We spent the night outside the park, a few kilometers away, in lovely bungalows for less than 70 € per couple.

That’s Kenya for you!

If you’re interested, I can share our Tanzania experience too.

If you have Messenger, you can reach me at jijic Hn. It’ll be easier.
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hi Jean-Jacques,

If I understand correctly, did you visit all the parks with your Dacia, or did you take guided tours once you arrived in the parks? Best regards, Muriel
JI Jijicques ·
Everything with the Dacia, and no guide in Kenya.
CH Chiarafont Regular ·
Wow, thanks for this super informative feedback! I’d never really considered doing all these parks on a self-drive trip, even though I covered 10,000 km in a Bushlore 4x4 in Southern Africa three years ago... Thanks for the details—I’ll definitely dive into them when the project comes back around! Hoping it won’t be too long...😄
MO Morris786 ·
Hi there, I’m a total newbie to Africa, and my dream is to just sit in a corner of the savanna and soak up the wildlife. From what I’ve seen, you all know this continent well—so is there still a country where this dream is even possible, or are the only options now those herd-like 4x4 safaris offered to tourists to see the animals? Thanks!
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
nothing but herd-like 4x4 safaris offered to tourists to see this wildlife? Thanks

You’ve still gotta put the herd of 4x4s into perspective though!

Otherwise, you’ve got KTP, the Kalahari, Mana Pools....
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Hi Pierre,

I recommend Tanzania, not the "classic" northern parks or the (slightly less classic) southern parks, but something much more secret:

- For the north, the parks of Arusha NP, so close to everything yet overlooked by everyone, Mkomazi NP—Tanzania’s Tsavo with wild dogs and rhinos (semi-captive), and Rubondo NP on Lake Victoria...

- For the south, Katavi NP, "the best-kept secret of African safaris," Mahale NP, a paradise for chimpanzees and swimming in Lake Tanganyika, and Kitulo NP, the "Serengeti of flowers," if the season’s right, or Udzungwa NP.

You won’t be bothered by 4x4s—either because there are very few (we spent entire days in Katavi without seeing any) or none at all (Rubondo), or because safaris are only on foot (Kitulo, Mahale, Udzungwa).

Finally, if you’re feeling adventurous, you could try the experience of the 5 (the 6th, Nyerere NP, is a good chunk of the already-known Selous) Game Reserves promoted to national parks in July 2019 and go search for shoebills in Kigosi NP, Ugalla NP, etc.

Happy planning, and of course,

*Safari njema!* Safe travels!

BL
MO Morris786 ·
Thanks so much for this info—it gives me a little hope again! 😊
PY Pygmalion19 Veteran ·
Hi Pierre,

In Tanzania, I also suggest Ruaha National Park for its wildlife and atmosphere. I had the pleasure of spending a week in this less-visited southern park, where it's very easy to find solitude as long as you have the right location and guides who align with your plans. The same goes for Tarangire National Park in northern Tanzania. In Kenya, Tsavo and Samburu are also great spots that fit your criteria. But in my opinion, Southern Africa—especially Namibia and Botswana—takes the crown.

Happy thinking,
MO Morris786 ·
Thanks so much for this info—Botswana and Namibia do seem a bit more preserved from mass tourism. Since we’re used to traveling independently, is it possible to rent a vehicle and manage on our own, or is a guide essential, especially for accessing the parks? Best,
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
Thanks so much for this info—Botswana and Namibia do seem a bit more preserved from mass tourism!

What’s a "mass tourist"? Even in high season, there are still crowds—sometimes *a lot* of them! Botswana chose luxury tourism to limit access!

Used to traveling independently, is it possible to rent a vehicle and manage on our own, or is a guide essential, especially for accessing the parks?

There are tons of travel journals here from self-drive tourists. A little research and reading, and you’ll have all the answers to your questions!
PY Pygmalion19 Veteran ·
Hi Pierre,

Used to traveling independently, is it possible to rent a vehicle and manage on our own, or is a guide essential, especially for accessing the parks? Best regards

I think the "average tourist" means someone without much field experience. In that case, many of us here have struggled with a self-drive trip without any special skills.

Yes! You can travel solo and rent a car (4x4 with a roof tent) for a trip to the wildlife parks in Namibia and Botswana. Some parks in Botswana are indeed very busy—I’m thinking of Chobe—while others, like KTP, are less so. In Namibia, vast areas are almost desert-like, but animals are rarer there. Spotting them isn’t easy.

Etosha NP is worth the trip, but it’s popular. If the campsites are pricey in the evening, the crowds thin out during the day, giving you a bit more space.

RJuly95’s advice is worth following. Many posts here will help you plan the trip of your dreams.

Cheers,
CH Chiarafont Regular ·
Perfect, thanks a million! Unfortunately, with the current situation, Tanzania is gradually becoming less feasible (if only for financial reasons), but I’ll still take a look at your article... thanks, and looking forward to reading more from you!
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Is it possible to rent a vehicle and manage on your own, or is a guide essential, especially for accessing the parks?

It’s actually one of the big draws of Southern Africa—you can easily rent a vehicle and travel self-drive through the national parks. 😎
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Well, actually, there are tons of places where this dream is possible—loads of countries, loads of situations. We're really far from those crowds of 4x4s everywhere, all the time.

And even some of the most visited parks can be explored almost alone by traveling in the off-season, getting up super early in the morning, and continuing the safari until closing time.

In short, you can be alone almost anywhere if that’s what you want.

I don’t know all the countries or all the sites, so I can’t give specific advice. But in Rwanda, I’d point to Akagera National Park, which is barely visited (35,000 tourists a year for 1,000 km², so it’s easy to be all alone—I only do self-drive there, and it’s not a challenge).

Kidepo in Uganda, where there’s almost no one, the infrastructure is basic but nice, and there are stunning savanna landscapes.

Tarangire, Lake Manyara if you go early and move away from the main entrance toward the cliffs...

Even sites outside parks where you can see tons of animals in total peace. For example, in Maasai land in Tanzania. Or in the fringes of Queen Elizabeth or the wildlife corridor in Uganda...

But obviously, if you *really* want to see the wildebeest migration, especially a river crossing like on TV, or if you go to Nyiragongo, etc.—basically, if you head to the most famous sites in peak season—you’ll probably run into crowds.
MV Mvbergen Globetrotter ·
Kidepo mainly suffers from its remoteness and the fact that it’s completely off the beaten path compared to the places tourists visit in Uganda. When most travelers are exploring the western part of the country, a detour to the northeast eats into their trip time, and many have limited days, which is why Kidepo gets "skipped."

Michel
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Hi Michel,

It's true that Kidepo is remote, but on top of that, there are few animals there. They were heavily poached during the years of war in South Sudan and the rebellion in that part of Uganda. And the cherry on top, if I may say so, the rainy season doesn’t happen at the same time as in the rest of the country.

But the savanna there is so beautiful... 😎 Actually, the entire northeastern part of Uganda is stunning and deserves a trip all on its own. 😛
TR Trisconi ·
Hello from Switzerland,

It’s indeed hard not to be captivated by the Masai Mara and its impeccable setup.

I’m also a seasoned traveler, which is why after 4 safaris with Tony Crocetta—in 2015, 2018, 2019, and 2020—I feel compelled to share my thoughts.

I have wonderful memories of the camp, the safari, the guides, the meals, and the warmth of Sylvie and Tony.

After a serious health issue with my partner, they did everything possible to arrange a repatriation, providing full assistance, professionalism, and kindness.

Claire’s rant might just reflect someone who’s very demanding and should probably opt for 5-star hotels instead of the great outdoors.

It’s so easy to criticize without even acknowledging the positives.

For my part, I can only recommend this little slice of paradise—I’ve already booked my fifth safari for October 2021 with Sylvie and Tony Crocetta.

You’ve been warned…

Marie-Jo
SP Spiderweb ·
Excellent follow-up response to everything we’ve mentioned about Tony CROCETTA’s setup, the quality of the services, and the appeal of the safaris offered. For those who don’t want to run into any photographers or other visitors in the parks, you can also check out the amazing shows on TV!

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