Back from 3 weeks in Quebec
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
MI
Hi there, just back from a three-week round trip to Quebec and a side trip to New Brunswick. Departed from Montpellier, via CDG, then arrived in Montreal from July 31 to August 20, 2024. AF flights went smoothly.

The RT itinerary (without the visit details):

Arrival in Montreal; Trois-Rivières; Tadoussac; Matane; Gaspé; Campbellton; Trois-Pistoles; Quebec City; Montreal and return to France, AF to CDG then Hop! to Montpellier.

Observations:

Getting out of Montreal airport is a nightmare! Two hours at Avis Auto to pick up the car (nice ride, though—a WW SUV Atlas V6 for two). From what I’ve heard, Montreal Airport is a pain because it was initially under-dimensioned for its infrastructure, and it seems impossible to reorganize everything.

Quebecers: Wonderful people in terms of hospitality and behavior toward tourists—especially French ones. You can ask them for advice at the supermarket, for directions here and there, and those distant cousins are great! That said, I’d exclude Montreal, which, due to its size and perhaps its cosmopolitanism, can’t be considered as welcoming as the countryside and small towns we passed through. A bit like Paris, you could say.

Quebecers prefer Quebec City over Montreal, and I get it. On a positive note for the city, I left some money in the hotel at the end of my stay. Once back in France, I contacted the hotel (day before yesterday), and they confirmed the oversight and are taking steps to send the money back. A nice gesture. It’s the Nouvel Hôtel, 1740 Avenue René Lévesque. Well-located, too.

Tourists: Same as always!

Americans: Still lacking in culture and education, but we already knew that. Loud, intrusive, annoying, you could say. And I’ll skip the “Oh my God! Oh my God!” all day long. And always with a coffee cup in hand on the streets. Not just American tourists, actually. Coffee is either enjoyed at the counter of a café or at home in front of the day’s news. It must also be said that our cousins’ coffee is more like dishwater.

Tourists from the Middle Kingdom: No change there! Flagrant lack of European culture and respect. They can be quite annoying at times. Thankfully, they don’t like the countryside or small towns.

Tourists from the Land of the Rising Sun: As usual, impeccable behavior. Both in terms of dress and discretion.

The British: They feel at home. Well, they kind of are, actually. Distant, inaccessible—typical English folks.

South Americans: A lot of them in Montreal during my stay. Quite noisy, especially at breakfast. But deep down, they’re great and very polite. I really like them. Must be my 36.1% Iberian DNA from my ancestry test that makes me say that.

And the French? Always the same! Complainers, grumblers, never happy with the meal, always finding prices too high, cutting in line, sometimes with a Quechua backpack but not always. In short, we don’t change. That said, there were some really nice people and great encounters that will leave wonderful memories. Some folks from Marseille in Quebec City, Toulouse in Montreal, Perpignan... But not many Parisians. Or maybe they just don’t talk to outsiders. When I think that my wife is from the 14th arrondissement...

And lots of lovely young French people there on a Working Holiday Visa for two years.

Others? Italians? Didn’t run into many. Eastern Europeans? Didn’t see any, or they were super discreet.

The trip started on July 31. 2,000 photos to sort through. More to come later.

MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
So, we finally made it out of Montreal airport with some difficulty, only to hit even more traffic on the way to Trois-Rivières. The drive out of Montreal was a slog, but then we hit the free highways along the left bank of the St. Lawrence.

The weather’s nice, the tunes are set, the iPhone GPS is up on the dashboard—let’s roll!

With the delay in Montreal, we got to Trois-Rivières too late to explore the city. We dropped our bags at the Comfort Inn in a commercial area and headed straight to Walmart for a backpack cooler, groceries for camping meals, and then back to the hotel for a pretty short night given how long the day had been.

As for Walmart in Quebec, there are better options. IGA and IGA Extra are great! You can find everything, often in bulk since families here tend to be large. They’ve got wine, sure, but it’s not amazing. For wine, you’ve got the SAQ! https://www.saq.com

It’s paradise for wine lovers!! You’ll find everything there! Anyway, so far so good.

First day of exploring La Mauricie Park. We stopped by the Visitor Center, paid our fee, and drove off to discover this stunning, ultra-protected park! It was a great find, but make sure you bring your own supplies!

Pictures?

Let’s go!

For more images, check out my Quebec site! It’s HERE





DO Dolma Globetrotter ·
Hi Mitch341,

A few of your observations really stood out to me:

les cousins éloignés sont supers !

Quebecers aren’t too fond of French people calling them "cousins."

Montreal not being welcoming: we clearly don’t share the same idea of hospitality (but I respect your opinion, of course!)

Les Québécois préfère Québec Ville à Montréal

Well, no, not all Quebecers prefer Quebec City (and it’s *Quebec City*, not *Québec ville*).

As for your description of tourists, I’d rather not comment.

That said, I’ll be happily following your travel journal! 🙂
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
Hi Mitch341

A few of your observations really stood out to me:

distant cousins are awesome!

Quebecers aren’t too fond of French people calling them "cousins"

Looks like we didn’t meet the same Quebecers, then.

Montreal not being welcoming: we clearly don’t share the same idea of hospitality (but I respect your opinion, of course!)

Indeed, we don’t share the same idea of hospitality.

Quebecers prefer Quebec City to Montreal

Well, not all Quebecers prefer Quebec City (and it’s *Quebec City*, not *Quebec ville*)

Once again, it seems we didn’t meet the same Quebecers.

As for your description of tourists, I’ll refrain from commenting

To your abstinence.

That said, I’ll be following your travel journal with pleasure 🙂

Alright.
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
After leaving La Mauricie Park (starting from Saint-Mathieu-du-Parc), hunger strikes. It's time to find a cozy spot to grab a bite. By some miracle, right at the park exit, we stumble upon a restaurant/inn that welcomes us with open arms. A quick stop to park, and we're seated at "Le 2800 du Parc." https://le2800duparc.ca/restaurant/

Now’s the perfect time to tell you about our experience with the local dish: Poutine!!

A dish considered THE Quebec classic! Fries, cheese, and a sauce that varies depending on the choice. Served with meat or fish. Basically, you can put whatever you want in it. Once seen as a very "working-class" dish with a somewhat negative connotation, it’s now an iconic meal. That said, in winter it’s hearty, and in summer it’s heavy on the digestion! Poutine is a bit like Quebec’s signature dish, just as haggis is to Scotland. Not exactly gourmet cuisine, but you’ve got to try it at least once.

For us, that meant twice—with another poutine featuring a tomato-based sauce like Bolognese. Also pretty heavy on the digestion. As for the rest of the local cuisine, you might ask? We had the best fish and chips of all our trips here and there! The Scots can step aside—it was amazing!

And the discovery of the trip? The excellent salmon and the equally delicious lobster, with prices low enough to enjoy them! The Guédille will charm you! https://betteravebrayonne.com/.../la-guenille-de-homard

Anyway, after this tasty break, we head back to the hotel to try and recover from the day’s hikes. 13 kilometers, 16,400 steps, and the equivalent of 9 flights of stairs according to the trusty app! !
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I don’t know why, but I’d be more tempted by the salmon and lobster than the poutine...😄
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
We're leaving Trois-Rivières (August 2nd) to head toward Tadoussac. I chose a route that takes us inland through Saguenay and then along the left bank of the Fjord to reach our hotel: HOTEL MOTEL LE BELUGA at 191 des Pionniers.

The drive is beautiful. We stop in Saguenay for some food and then cross the bridge to the left bank. About 5 hours later from departure, we drop off our things at the Beluga Hotel after picking up the tickets for tomorrow’s boat ride.

It’s a pretty old hotel, no elevator, and no breakfast. The room has a terrace, which is nice. Just a short walk away, there’s a French-style bakery that’s really handy, and a bit farther, a convenience store and an SAQ for groceries.

We take a stroll around town (not much to see), grab some beers at the pub, and eat in the room since we’re pretty tired, to be honest. Tomorrow, we’ve got to get up early to go see—or at least try to see—the whales.

Photos at HERE
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
I don’t know why, but I’d be more tempted by salmon and lobster than poutine...

Oh, absolutely! Except that Quebec salmon isn’t what it used to be. In Gaspésie, I had several conversations with locals who aren’t exactly fans of our Brigitte Bardot because of her defense of baby seals. In fact, seals are multiplying like crazy and, according to the locals, wreaking havoc on salmon populations. To the point that the government is considering reinstating the hunt for baby seals.

On another note, I saw salmon rivers with nice colonies, but—according to locals and the Matane fish ladder—there’s been a significant decline. Seals? Climate change? Overzealous ecology? I won’t weigh in.

For lobsters, no worries. [;]
MA Madonantes Regular ·
We tasted the best Fish and Chips of all our trips here and there! The Scots can eat their hats! Absolutely amazing!

I hope you all got to enjoy some fish and fries (chips) and not fish and ships ;). Just a little humorous wink! I’ll keep reading your travel journal—it’s bringing back some great memories
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
We tasted the best Fish and Chips of our trips here and there! The Scots can eat their hats! Absolutely superb!

I hope for your sake you ate fish and fries (chips) and not fish and ships ;). Just a little humorous wink!!! I’ll keep reading your travel journal—it’s bringing back great memories

Oops!!! My bad!! ;) But they were really excellent!!
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
This Saturday, August 3rd, we had to head to the dock to take the boat that was supposed to let us discover the whales and other wildlife in the area. Why not take the zodiac, which gets closer to the mammals? Simply to avoid having my camera gear soaked by the sea spray. Been there, done that at Yellowstone in 2022. And then there’s the whole process of putting on a protective suit—no thanks.

Anyway, we took the big AML boat: https://www.croisieresaml.com/.../croisiere-aux-baleines... With the VIP Lodge option so we could relax. I can roam the whole boat for photos while my wife stays sheltered behind the lodge’s glass windows.

We were supposed to see some amazing things, for sure! Except for the weather… A lot of fog this morning, unfortunately.

And all the photos HERE, of course.





MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
So here we are, aboard this beautiful naval vessel, exploring the St. Lawrence and beyond, if we feel like it. Unfortunately, as mentioned, the morning fog is playing tricks on us.

The St. Lawrence, then the Saguenay Fjord. A few encounters here and there, some beautiful images, ideas for an exhibit, and an all-inclusive experience in the VIP lounge! Evita Bella!

Alright, enough chatting—let’s get to these pictures.

The rest of the images HERE.







MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
The whale-watching "cruise" is over, and we're heading back to grab a bite around 1:00 PM.

For the rest of the day, we're off to Escoumins to check out the departure point for the ferry that'll take us to Gaspésie, with Trois-Pistoles as our disembarkation point.

Once the planning’s done (I’m actually a big planner), we stop by the Marine Environment Discovery Center. Just enough time to snap a few photos and spot some marine mammals.

A nice spot where divers are plentiful—apparently, the seabeds are pretty great.







MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
We cruised the area’s vast waterways on a big motorboat! Still haven’t spotted any humpback whales—just belugas in the distance, a few small minke whales, seals, and some gorgeous scenery.

Speaking of seals, turns out Quebecers aren’t exactly fans of our *Brigitte Nationale*! Her campaign against the seal pup slaughter led to a total ban on culling these animals.

The result? No more predators and an exponential boom in the population of these adorable little critters.

Our seal friends are now free to gobble up salmon and "cod" without limits, which is really hurting Quebec’s fishing industry.

I talked about this issue with not just one but several people, and they all agree: Brigitte really messed up—no two ways about it. And yet, you can tell our cousins are huge nature lovers. But when it comes to seals, they’re at their wits’ end! Rumor has it the government, under pressure from "lobbies," is even looking into bringing back targeted seal culls. Stay tuned.
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
What to do on this Sunday, August 4th? Well, why not a simple cruise in the Fjord? I booked with a smaller boat, and departure is set for 11:00 AM. https://navettesdufjord.com/.../croisiere-tadoussac-et...

This gives me time this morning to explore the area around the hotel.

I grab my walking stick and hat, not forgetting my small camera, and off I go wandering here and there. I discover a path leading to a trail around Lac de l'Anse à l'Eau (yes, there are quite a few here :joy:) to reach Anse à la Barque and return the same way. The weather is nice—cool without being cold—so let’s enjoy this enchanted morning.

I’ll tell you, there’s not a soul around. Just a few ducks on the lake and that’s it. It’s actually really nice! My walk will last about an hour and a half.

Photos of this lovely spot? Let’s go, as the neighbors say!

And more images HERE







MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
The boat isn’t big for this cruise on the Fjord, but it’s fully glassed-in. There’ll only be two couples for the first part of the upstream journey.

Our stop will be Anse St-Jean for 1 hour 15 minutes with a light snack, then we’ll continue upstream to the Vierge du Fjord and head back to Tadoussac by 5:00 PM. There’ll be a few more people on board (hikers returning to Tadoussac), but nothing overwhelming.

We’ll definitely see seals—Brigitte’s favorites—along with minke whales and belugas.

I keep snapping photos between friendly chats with part of the crew.

This’ll help me continue my sociological take on this incredibly endearing crowd. One of the crew members was a skipper in the Caribbean for years! That gave us a chance to swap stories—his about sailing, mine about my stays in Guadeloupe.

Now it’s time to share a few photos.

The rest is still HERE



MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
Monday, August 5th. It's very early when I get up to explore a seaside path and try to spot more marine mammals. To be honest, it's quite chilly in Tadoussac.

This peninsula loop takes about an hour, which is more than enough before leaving Tadoussac to catch the ferry.

The area is nice, the walk is pretty easy. Not many people around. There are wooden structures to help with sightseeing—it’s a walk I’d definitely recommend. I should mention that during the day, it gets crowded. It’s best to go early.

Instead of talking more, let’s look at some pictures of this place. To keep it focused, I’ll only post the seaside shots. The forest section would just repeat other images.

The other photos are HERE.









MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
After finishing the walk in Tadoussac, I head back to the hotel, making sure to grab some pains au chocolat and croissants from the nearby bakery. There are already people there for the morning coffee. The service isn’t the fastest, but hey, we’re on vacation.

Time to pack up, double-check everything, load the car, and return the key to the staff who’ve been invisible for the past three days. Then we drive toward Les Escoumins, stopping at the local pharmacy for my wife, who caught a cold.

Once we arrive at the dock, it’s around 11:30 AM. Departure is scheduled for 12:15 PM. We’re among the first, and next to us is a car with four very respectable-looking elderly people. One of them opens the trunk of their SUV, and I see three boxes of white and red wine.

I walk over and ask, "Is that Quebec Limonade?" They burst out laughing, and we start a lively conversation about this beautiful country. I must have a pretty strong Provençal accent, which the locals love—it helps break the ice.

The wait drags on, and my wife stays in the car to keep warm. It’s chilly by the St. Lawrence. There are quite a few people on the dock, and in the distance, you can see whale-watching Zodiacs and a humpback whale spouting.

My camera captures it, but from pretty far away. Too bad. A Quebec couple explains that after the whale spouts, if you see its back arching more, it’s about to lift its tail and dive. You have to wait 15 to 20 minutes for it to resurface.

The weather’s gloomy—photos won’t turn out great.



MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
It takes 1h30 to cross the St. Lawrence and arrive at the village of Trois-Pistoles. So we disembark around 2:00 PM at the dock, and we still have to drive another 1h30 to reach our next stop: Matane.

A quick stop for gas, snacks, and bathroom breaks, and the afternoon is shot for sightseeing. I’d planned to stop at Le Parc du Bic, but the timing just doesn’t work out.

We’ll arrive at the Hôtel de Matane, RIOTEL MATANE, 250 Avenue de Phare Est, G4W 3N4 Matane, settle in for two nights, and enjoy a relaxing dinner out.

The fresh air from the crossing really tired us out. Off to bed.
MI Mitch341 Veteran ·
The night was restful. No noise in this Matane hotel despite it being quite busy. There’s an indoor pool, but the kids’ shouts are a deal-breaker for me.

This Tuesday, August 6th, I was up at dawn. Time to get dressed, grab a camera, and here I am on the beach. Well, it’s the St. Lawrence. Let’s not ask for the moon, after all.

The sun is out, the walk will be pleasant, then a stroll through town before heading back to the hotel for breakfast with my wife. The day’s going to be pretty long.

More photos are HERE.



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