Kyushu between Fukuoka and Nagasaki in autumn 2024 (Japan)
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
NA
Fellow travelers,

Don’t they say "never two without three"? It seems so. Here I am again on the forum to share—and let’s be honest, indulge a bit of selfish pleasure—by recounting the story of this third installment in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Where? It’s all in the title. On the island of Kyushu in southern Japan, more precisely in the northwest between Fukuoka and Nagasaki. I hope to take you along with me for 19 nights and 18 full days this autumn of 2024. On the itinerary: gastronomy, crafts, festivals, waterfalls, encounters, and leisurely strolls in all simplicity.

A last-minute flight booked just 7 days before departure, and the route evolved regularly based on whims and accommodation availability, eventually settling on this:

- 5 nights in Fukuoka: Fukuoka city, Ukiha, Itoshima, Dazaifu, Yanagawa - 4 nights in Hasami, Nagasaki Prefecture: Okawachiyama, Arita, Takeo, Kashima, Yobuko, Karatsu, Kabeshima - 6 nights in Nagasaki: Ureshino, Higashi-Sonogi, Nagasaki city, Unzen, Sotome - 4 nights in Fukuoka: Karatsu, Fukuoka city

Most of the trip was done by car for practical reasons—easier access to certain places and freedom of movement—but also for the sheer joy of it. Despite slow traffic at times, driving in rural Japan is a delight.

If the program interests you, see you soon for the start of the journey.
CH Chaiwala Veteran ·
Sounds great! I spent two weeks there two years ago, focusing on the island’s most touristy spots (Ibusuki, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Kurokawa Onsen, etc.).

The places I liked the least were the cities (Fukuoka and Nagasaki), which I found had limited appeal.

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
Interesting! I spent two weeks there two years ago, focusing on the island’s most touristy spots (Ibusuki, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Kurokawa-onsen, etc.). The places I liked the least were the cities (Fukuoka and Nagasaki), which I found had limited appeal in my opinion.

Looking forward to reading your thoughts.

Hi Chaiwala,

Thanks for joining the trip—it’s great to have you!

How much we enjoy a place is always personal and depends, I think, on so many factors: the weather, everyone’s interests, the people we meet, the vibe at any given moment, what else we’ve seen, and so on... I’ve also visited some of the places you mentioned to some extent (see travel journal), and for me, I’d say Nagasaki and Fukuoka have a different kind of appeal—not so much in terms of sights to visit, but more as cities to experience. Nagasaki is really unique in its geography compared to other cities. As for Fukuoka, it’s a food paradise.

That said, after seeing Fukuoka and Nagasaki, I realized Tokyo is truly in a league of its own in Japan—and maybe even the world. Tokyo is Tokyo, an absolutely fantastic city. (Just to be clear, this doesn’t mean I didn’t enjoy Fukuoka and Nagasaki!)
CH Chaiwala Veteran ·
Let’s meet up in Tokyo 😏 It’s THE CITY for me
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
Day 1: Departure from Paris to Fukuoka

Flight scheduled at 7:30 PM with the Korean low-cost airline TWAY AIR, with a layover in Seoul before taking another flight with the same airline to Fukuoka Airport.

At Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, we arrived early, but check-in wasn’t open yet, and the airline’s name wasn’t displayed. However, several people were already queuing in one spot. We joined them, unsure at first, but eventually asked the people in front and behind us. Good thing—everyone was heading to Seoul with TWAY AIR. We waited... for a long time, moving forward at a snail’s pace. Some chats with other future passengers made the wait a bit more lively. Still, for many of us, including ourselves, it was our first time flying with this airline. It’s new at Paris Charles de Gaulle and offers attractive fares compared to current prices. But since it’s new, no one really knows how the airline operates. Is the meal included? For a long-haul flight, it seemed logical that it would be. Yet, others told us it wasn’t. Really!? That’s odd, given the flight duration. Well, we’d see later—right now, we just had to keep waiting to check in.

It was finally our turn. What’s usually a quick formality took much longer than expected. The airline’s computer system wasn’t working well, so the staff had to write everything by hand. That’s when the problems started. First, the attendant only found one of us in the system. Once that was resolved, I asked about our luggage to make sure we’d pick it up in Fukuoka, not Seoul. Turns out, our final destinations weren’t the same. The attendant had to redo everything and reissue the tickets. Then came the seat issue. Half an hour later, everything was sorted—or so we thought—until we reached the boarding gate. I got through without any issues. My travel companion, however, couldn’t. They were told he had already boarded. "Really? Impossible—I just got here." The security agent checked the tickets and, oh no, there was a mistake: both outbound tickets had been issued under the same name. We had to go back to check-in. "Listen, it’s complicated—we’ve already spent so much time here." Finally, the security agent called their supervisor, who let us through but said we’d have to sort it out with the flight attendants before boarding. Great...

After clearing security, we first looked for food so we wouldn’t starve. The problem? At airports—at least in France—the options are pretty dismal. What’s there? McDonald’s, Paul, a Japanese restaurant, and a French brasserie, all at outrageous prices for what you get. We were waiting at Paul when I saw a woman return with a salad. I glanced at it out of curiosity since it wasn’t on display. Good thing I did—she was bringing it back because there was a huge cockroach in it (alive, I might add). Okay, well, that didn’t make me eager to eat there. So, we had to find something else, but there was nothing decent. We ended up with a few snacks from Relay, but you really couldn’t be picky. It was all pretty depressing. Especially since all the shops around were luxury brands. I think there’s a real disconnect between the food options and the stores—never mind that France is known for its gastronomy. You wouldn’t know it at the airport!

Anyway, our tickets were reissued, and this time everything looked good. Or so we thought... When it was time to board, there was another issue with my travel companion’s ticket—this time, the seat number didn’t match. So, we waited another 20 minutes (though we did chat with a really nice security agent) while the ticket was reissued yet again. The good news? We weren’t supposed to be seated together, but in the end, we could be.

Once on the plane, we were already in Asia—the welcome was much warmer and friendlier.



The only notable difference during the flight was the meal. First off, it *was* included! While it only had the main course (no full tray from appetizer to dessert like with national airlines), the taste was there, and I’d even say it was good—I really enjoyed it! As expected, there were no screens—or at least, the ones there didn’t work. We had a lot of sleep to catch up on, so that wasn’t an issue. Another difference: the products for sale on the plane. You could find natural health products like royal jelly, zinc, and other items. While it might seem like a small detail, to me, it reflects a significant cultural difference in how some Asian countries, including South Korea, approach medicine.



Another cultural detail I noticed among the passengers: some Koreans came *prepared* for the flight. Almost everyone had toothbrushes or dental floss. I saw them line up one by one to brush their teeth in the restroom. Others were practically dressed for a pajama party, complete with slippers like they were at home.



We arrived in Seoul. Incheon Airport is large and modern.

Our layover was very short—only 2 hours—so no time to explore the airport or try a Korean restaurant. But we were hungry, so we stopped at Paris Baguette. The difference in food quality and options compared to Paris Charles de Gaulle was undeniable. There were well-stuffed sandwiches with fresh ingredients, appetizing salads, and delicious hot snacks. Plus, a wider variety of drinks with more original flavors. We tried a green mandarin drink, which was absolutely delicious. And the service was efficient, with reasonable prices—no more expensive than in France, but much better!

We hurried to the gate, but the flight ended up being about an hour late, giving us time to enjoy the sunset and watch the planes take off while savoring our snacks.

The flight to Fukuoka lasted 1 hour and 30 minutes. There was some turbulence, but we finally arrived back in Japan. Fukuoka Airport seemed pretty small, though we didn’t explore much. It was almost 8 PM, so we quickly bought two Nimoca cards for city travel. To get to the nearby city center, we took a free shuttle bus, which dropped us off at an orange Airport Line subway station. Two stops later, we were at Hakata Station.



The station was still quite lively, even though several shops were already closed. We discovered a dining area open until 11 PM or midnight. It was already 8:30–9 PM, and we decided to eat right away since I knew there was nothing near our accommodation. We opted for ramen. The restaurant offered luggage storage, so we left our big bags at the entrance and sat at the counter. We enjoyed a Tonkotsu ramen, one of Fukuoka’s specialties. The broth was white, cloudy, and creamy, made from pork bones. We paired it with a nice Sapporo beer.





After the meal, we walked to our accommodation, which was 15 minutes away from the station. Along the way, we saw our first "dressed" manhole cover. I’m not sure what the fire truck design refers to—usually, the decorations are related to the city’s history.



Accommodation prices were quite high at the last minute, even after checking daily for promotions and across different sites. We didn’t really have a choice on price. We opted for an apartment hotel with no on-site staff. It’s less fun than talking to people, but check-in was pretty simple. We discovered our place: a spacious 40 m² apartment with three double beds, a balcony, a bathtub-shower, a separate kitchen with a dishwasher, and even a washing machine with detergent. We were very comfortable.

The hotel lobby with a drink vending machine





The evening was already well underway, so we settled in and then went to buy a few things at the konbini around midnight. What a pleasure to be back at the konbini! Most 7-Elevens have self-checkout machines.

Off to bed!
GE Gedevoyageur Regular ·
Hi Nathalie

So great to be back on the forum and its friendly vibe.

Thanks for kicking off these reunions with a new travel journal—I’ll be following along with pleasure, even though my next trip next year will be more in the Tohoku region. I read your previous journals at the time and really liked your style and photography.

Just out of curiosity, how much did you pay for the flight ticket? (The airline seems 🤪.)

With tourism on the rise in Japan, booking accommodations well in advance seems essential if you want well-located places.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
Hi Nathalie

It's such a joy to be back on the forum and its friendly vibe.

Thanks for kicking off these reunions with a new travel journal—I’ll be following along with pleasure, even though my next trip next year will be to Tohoku instead. I read your previous journals at the time and really enjoyed your style and photography.

Just out of curiosity, how much did you pay for the flight ticket? (The airline seems .)

With tourism in Japan on the rise, booking accommodations well in advance seems essential if you want well-located places.

Hi Gérard,

It *is* really nice to be back on this forum.

Thanks for the kind words.

I remember you were torn between Tohoku and Kyushu. You’ve settled on Tohoku in the end—great choice, though the other would’ve been just as good. I feel like Tohoku is gaining popularity, and it’s well-deserved because the region is stunning. A little selfishly, I hope it doesn’t get *too* popular.

What’s your planned itinerary for Tohoku, if you have one, and which season are you going in?

For the flight ticket, no secret here—I paid 970 €. TWAY Air was great overall, aside from the boarding pass hassles. We were the only passengers who had that issue. I’d fly with them again if the opportunity comes up, just being extra careful with the boarding passes.

As for bookings, there were better-located places available, but at a higher price. I think booking ahead is better for choice and, most importantly, the price.
FA Fairytitania Regular ·
Hi there,

I’m also thinking about this trip report.

I first discovered Japan in the spring with the classic Kyoto (or more precisely, Osaka for us) / Tokyo combo. Since then, I’ve been itching to go back to explore other areas, this time in the autumn.

Reading your posts, I’ve just learned about a new airline that only has a few reviews on this site: https://flight-report.com/fr/airline/14095/tway-airlines/.
CA Capucine33 Veteran ·
Thanks so much for sharing this! It’s really inspiring—I’m keeping all the info for a solo trip next November... but I won’t be able to stay as long, and I’ll be getting around by public transport.

Thanks!
MA Mahayana ·
Hi Erel, I’m thinking of heading to Japan in November 2025. I’ve heard you have to book accommodations way in advance!! Did you book yours as you arrived in each place? I can’t really picture booking everything ahead—it doesn’t leave much room for adventure! Thanks in advance, Solange
MA Mahayana ·
Another question... did you hire a car with a driver?
CH Chaiwala Veteran ·
I traveled in November 2022 just after the Covid reopening. I only used trains and buses. No need for a car. I had booked everything in advance at the time. I think it’s even more essential now with the high tourism levels.
GE Gedevoyageur Regular ·
What’s your planned itinerary for Tohoku if you have one, and what season again?

Hi Nathalie, I’m leaving after Golden Week. My itinerary: Geibikei Gorge, Naruko Onsen, Ginzan Onsen (I’m worried I’ll be disappointed), Sendai, Matsushima, Yamadera, Aizuwakamatsu, the Tadami Line train, Nikko, and back via Haneda. I’m also renting a car. Which rental company did you use?
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
Good evening,

I’m also considering this trip report.

I discovered Japan in the spring with the classic Kyoto (or more precisely Osaka for us) / Tokyo combo. Since then, I’ve been itching to go back to explore other areas, this time in autumn.

Reading your posts, I just learned about a new airline that only has a few reviews on this site: https://flight-report.com/fr/airline/14095/tway-airlines/.

Good evening Fairytania,

Thanks for joining the journey—I hope you enjoy reading!

Returning to Japan, almost a must

From what I gathered from a ground hostess we talked to, the airline has been around for about ten years but has only been flying from France since late August 2024.

Looking forward to the rest of the story.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
Thanks for sharing this! It’s really inspiring—I’ll keep the info safe for a solo trip next November... though I won’t be able to stay as long and I’ll be getting around by public transport. Thanks

Hi Capucine33, and welcome!

Thank you for your kind words. If this travel journal can provide an escape and even help others, that’s even better. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate. Are you planning to visit Kyushu next year? Everyone travels for as long as they can. As for public transport, it’s a well-developed system in Japan—no reason not to use it.

See you soon.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
Hello Erel, I'm considering going to Japan in November 2025. I've heard that you need to book accommodations well in advance!! Did you book them as you arrived in each place? I can't imagine booking them ahead—it doesn’t leave much room for adventure! Thanks in advance, Solange

Hello Mahayana,

Thanks for your interest.

Regarding accommodations, it’s entirely possible not to book them in advance. However, there are several constraints that can arise: - Depending on the travel period, if it's a peak time (Golden Week, festival season), there might be no accommodations left if you're looking for a specific area, or the choice could be very limited—plus the prices might not be as good. - On-site, managing bookings takes time away from your trip. Also, in Japan, you can’t just "show up" at a hotel the same day to ask for a room; it’s best to call at least the day before or in the morning at the very least.

If these constraints aren’t a dealbreaker, then it’s possible to travel without booking.

While I wouldn’t even consider booking for many other destinations, I have to say that planning accommodations in advance for Japan can save precious time, given all the activities you can do there—days never seem long enough!

Did you book as you arrived in each place?

For my part, I used well-known international booking apps with free cancellation options. This gave me the security of having a place to stay while still allowing me to change my itinerary—and that’s exactly what I did. It also sometimes helped me find better deals in terms of price, location, or comfort. So, it can be a good compromise for keeping that sense of adventure. Besides, I think adventure can also come from meeting people on-site and going with the flow each day, even if your itinerary is more or less set. But that’s just my personal take. It’s up to you to see what works best for you.

Another question... did you rent a car with a driver?

No, and I wouldn’t even dare imagine the cost that could represent! Japan isn’t a Southeast Asian country. In terms of standard of living, even though the yen’s value against the euro is lower right now, Japan remains a developed country. Also, there’s no need for a driver. You just need a license (French license + Japanese translation to be done at the JAF in Japan or through an agency in France). Apart from driving on the left, the signage is understandable, the roads are in good condition, everything is safe, and on top of that, people drive slowly and the Japanese are calm on the roads.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
I traveled only by train and bus. No need for a car.

It depends on where you want to go. Some areas are hard to reach by public transport, even if it's well developed. A car also gives you more freedom with schedules. In big cities, a car is obviously useless. Long trips like Tokyo to Kyoto also don’t make sense by car. But for visiting Iya Valley in Shikoku, reaching Takachiho Falls in Kyushu, or getting around Yakushima, a car is much more practical.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
What’s your planned itinerary if you have one for Tohoku, and what season again?

Hi Nathalie, Departure after Golden Week. Itinerary: Geibikei Gorge, Naruko Onsen, Ginzan Onsen (I’m afraid I might be disappointed), Sendai, Matsushima, Yamadera, Aizuwakamatsu, the Tadami Line train, Nikko, and return via Haneda.

That’s a really nice program for Tohoku. I’d be curious to read your travel journal afterward. For Ginzan Onsen, I had planned to go last year—at least to pass through since it was too late to find accommodation—but in the end, time got away from us, and it was pouring rain, so we gave up. Still, the area seemed stunning, and some travelers on the forum might confirm that from experience.

I’m also renting a car. Which rental company did you use?

For Tohoku last year, I went through Tocoo. https://www2.tocoo.jp/en/ They work with several local car rental agencies. You could also go through Book.... or directly with agencies on-site. Some travelers mentioned on this forum or others that they rented directly from a local agency. Maybe avoid doing that during peak tourist season.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
DAY 2 – FUKUOKA CITY

After a good night's sleep adjusting to the time difference, we started our first vacation day in the late morning.

It’s October 29th, and while it’s autumn here, Japanese autumn feels like an Indian summer in France to me. Even though the sky was gray, the weather was very pleasant. Throughout the trip, the temperature hovered between 19 and 24 degrees in the shade, so it actually felt warmer. I could wear dresses and open-toed shoes without getting cold, even late at night around midnight. There were a few cooler days where a light cardigan came in handy, as well as some rainy days, but overall, the climate was really nice.

Deciding to walk to the station, we took the opportunity to explore our neighborhood in daylight. It’s a residential area—aside from a 7-Eleven just steps away and a retro barber shop on the main perpendicular avenue, there weren’t any stores. However, we did find a small wooden shrine.

We walked toward Hakata Station as planned, crossing the Mikasa River. From the bridge, we spotted enormous koi carp—almost like catfish. Turtles were also lounging peacefully along the riverbank.



Once at the station, we decided to eat early. While it’s not always easy to find restaurants open late (after 2 PM or 8/9 PM) in some areas, especially rural ones, eating at 11 or 11:30 AM isn’t a problem in Japan.

We settled on a sushi restaurant. Sushi—or raw fish in general—is one of the things we miss most about Japan. Based on our experiences, we’d say you can’t truly know what sushi is until you’ve had it in Japan. Some might say that’s the tourist in me idealizing Japan… And sure, you can probably find good sushi in France, but overall, the fish isn’t the same, freshness is key to quality, and the way the fish is cut and the rice is prepared makes sushi one of those dishes that, in my opinion, is best enjoyed in Japan. I’d love to hear your thoughts or experiences on this!

Back to the meal. We loved the warm, understated decor, the gentle and attentive service, the unlimited hot tea included with the meal, and the appetizing presentation of the dishes.



A chawanmushi, a small savory custard. What’s fun is that it tastes different at every restaurant.





Assortment of sashimi with different types of tuna, varying in fat content.

After finishing our meal, we took our time before leaving when one of the servers brought us a gift from the chef—fried fish bones. I think we got this treat thanks to the few Japanese words we used to communicate.

So there we were, facing a plate of tiny fried fish bones with the chef watching us… When it’s time to dig in, you just go for it! We tried them, and oh, they were good! Crunchy, salty, and not greasy—like little appetizer crackers. We thanked the chef again, smiled, and told him it was delicious… in Japanese, of course.

First day, first kind gesture. Yokoso! Welcome!

BE BeneFukuoka Veteran ·
Gorgeous sashimi platter! Glad the trip went well, at least from what I can see here.

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