I hesitated for a long time about the next part of this trip.
To stay or not to stay in Dubrovnik, to keep moving almost constantly or settle in one place for a few days?
The semi-relaxed side won out, helped along by the cost of accommodations...
Many seaside rentals enforce a minimum nightly quota, and the longer you stay, the more the price drops, with the cleaning fee spread out over the days.
All that was left was to choose the perfect spot for these 6 nights on the Dalmatian coast.
A very quiet place, not overcrowded, not disfigured by concrete, within an hour of Dubrovnik and Korčula at most.
I set my sights on the Pelješac peninsula and spot a house near Ston in a village with no restaurants, no bars, no hotels.
The price is still very reasonable—cheap, even, compared to the cost of a bungalow at a campsite in France (I wonder how they manage to stay fully booked...🤪).
Especially since the house can easily accommodate 4 adults!
I better understand the influx of Poles and other Eastern Europeans in Croatia in mid-June. The accommodations clearly match their cost of living better. And it’s not that far by car.
We’ll mostly see these nationalities during our trip, except in the port cities where cruise ships dock.
Russians too. Also by car.
How they’ve made it here since Putin set Ukraine ablaze remains a mystery...
But back to the point...
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Before heading to Luka, we make a small detour to Kotisina Castle.
The entry fee is steep for what’s on offer, so we settle for a walk in the "botanical park."

The least you can say is that the place is neglected...
And what heat!
A bit of a flop to start the day...
We then follow the coast to Igrane, where we leave a few euros at the parking lot just to breathe in the sea air.

Lunchtime has long passed by the time we reach Drvenik, a small seaside resort still quite peaceful at the start of the summer season.

The restaurant we picked lives up to its reputation—we leave reluctantly!

A digestive stroll through an abandoned village in the hills above Drvenik perfectly caps off our exploration of this part of the coast.
I’m surprised these houses haven’t been renovated yet.

Sure, it’s not right by the water, but what an oasis of calm and what a lovely view!


Where do I sign for a plot in this cemetery?
The nearest big town, Ploče, is far less charming...
A Soviet-style apartment vibe and an oil terminal—hardly the stuff of dreams!
We won’t linger here and soon head toward the Pelješac cable-stayed bridge.
It feels like I’m on the Millau Viaduct after the Tarn Valley flooded!

This structure was built to bypass the only part of Bosnia-Herzegovina with a coastline, but it hasn’t yet led to overtourism on the Pelješac peninsula.
People usually just cross the bridge and the peninsula, stopping only for a couple of hours in Ston.
That won’t last...
We won’t linger today either—the rental host is waiting for us soon!
We now settle into our lodging and end this transitional day with a swim just steps away.
It’s not really a beach—more like a sea access point between the fishing port and the oyster and mussel farms, the local specialty.


But the water is clean and clear, and we’ll share the spot with only a few locals.
The water is also very cold, and it takes a long time to fully immerse ourselves...
I’d forgotten how freezing the Adriatic Sea is in June...
So had I forgotten the need to wear water shoes in this country, given the omnipresence of pebbles, rocks, and sea urchins!
In short, Croatia—yes, but not for the beach!
Luckily, that wasn’t our goal. 🙂