Croatia, Montenegro – two victims of overtourism?
FR

Translated into English.

AT Attila Globetrotter ·
We then wander from alley to alley, from square to little plaza, until hunger starts gnawing at us.







We decide to move a little farther from the palace to try and avoid the multilingual tourist traps with their over-the-top promises, opting instead for a slightly better-rated restaurant...

The cuttlefish ink risotto turns out to be delicious, by the way!



How about a post-meal stroll to help digestion?

Off we go, tackling Marjan Park—maybe not the best idea for a walk on a scorching June day around 2 PM...

We’re a bit worn out and parched by the time we reach Telegrin, the park’s highest point at 178 meters!







Not a tour group in sight—just two or three other travelers.

We’re only a short climb away from the bustling heart of Split, yet few think to make the trek up here.

Maybe in the evening?

We head back to the car just in time to dodge a brief but sudden storm.

A small road winding above Solin catches my eye.

We don’t hesitate to take it.

Soon, we’re in the company of just a few bees and the whisper of the wind.





It seems to me that tourism in Croatia has so much more to offer than just its coastline, but the natural side of things seems to have been overlooked by promoters and tourist offices alike...

All the better for hikers and lovers of untouched spaces! !
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
In your photos, Split doesn’t even look crowded with tourists in the city 🙂.
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
The Peristyle area was a bit too hectic for my taste, but I’ve never seen a human swarm like some days at Mont Saint-Michel! In short, it was manageable.

The more I visit heavily crowded places, the more I realize the main issue comes from groups.

Even with the mandatory earpieces for the guide’s chatter, tours with 10, 20, or 40 people still create a nuisance—traffic jams, walls of people, obstacles.
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
We’re diving right into the heart of the matter! Ended up visiting Split with a few interesting detours...

By the way, where are all these groups coming from? 😠 #cruisesarefun....
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
There are buses too...

Quite a few older folks at this time of year (June), but also some young people (under 30, you get the idea) lost in the middle—bet they’ll be thanking their travel agency when they get back...

I’ll admit, I struggle to grasp the concept.

Sure, I get being shuttled from place to place (bus, boat...) with pre-booked hotels, but guided tours and meals in countries that are super easy to explore on your own? That leaves me baffled.

The only time I’ve done group travel was in Egypt (a cruise, actually), and I don’t exactly have fond memories of it... Plus, the guide 🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️ at me because I’d wander off on my own as soon as we arrived at a site...

There was only one "sea HLM" docked in Split—7 floors, still a dwarf compared to this one... COVID was quickly forgotten...

Dubrovnik has capped the numbers—maybe Split has done the same?

I think cruises will have to change course. Home ports are turning them away more and more. The only ones left will be the smaller ships for port-hopping, while the big ones will basically become floating resorts. A theme park on water. Las Vegas by sea.
MA Mag222 ·
How's your trip going? Overtourism or not? Can't wait to follow your journey!
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
I mean, when she’s not on vacation, she’s traveling 🙂

She’ll be back, no doubt about it!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
The trip is over, this is a travel journal written on the way back! 😉

And when I say "way back," I mean back to work, so less time to dedicate to this journal.

(Uploading photos takes forever!)
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Trip around my desk.... I don’t know if there’d be enough to write a travel journal. 😏
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
We arrived in Croatia and took care of booking our spots to take the stunning road leading to the summit of Sveti Jure, a mountain peaking at 1,762 meters in altitude located in Biokovo Park.

Unlike other places, reservations don’t open weeks or even months in advance but only 5 days prior.

It’s way more practical and ensures only people who are sure to go actually book.

But why isn’t access free, you might ask?

To prevent accidents and traffic jams!

While the road isn’t one-way, it often has just a single narrow lane...

Allowing an unlimited number of vehicles would be asking for serious trouble.

So, the area is only accessible to about twenty cars per hour, and you must arrive at the exact time indicated on your reservation.

Once inside, though, you can stay as long as you want!

Motorcycles, bikes, and pedestrians aren’t subject to any quota and can move freely during the park’s opening hours.

Freely, but not for free! Entry costs 15 € per person (10 € for cyclists)...

---/---

It’s 10:50 AM, and we arrive at the park barrier. The other participants in the 11:00 batch are already there, and we’ll be leaving almost last.

Even better!

We let a few followers pass us on purpose, then stop soon after to let everyone get ahead.

Now we’re alone!

The forest covering the mountainside has suffered from fire, and the blaze devoured the trees like a teenager with popcorn at a movie theater.

The disaster doesn’t seem recent, and the scene has been cleaned up.

Partially burned trunks stand like scattered bonfires along the road—definitely not the time to light up a cigarette...



This bleak sight continues for a few turns before we reach an altitude spared by the fire.

Shortly after, we arrive at what’s the final stop for many visitors: the Biokovo Skywalk.

The parking lot is reasonably full, but we find a spot easily.

Signs ask travelers not to linger too long on the famous skywalk—though today, that’s pretty unnecessary since everyone will have time to take photos!





The spot is way more spectacular from an aerial view, but the scenery from this fun setup is still stunning.



After that, it’s pretty much the same just next door...

We continue our climb toward the summit, trying to catch the eye of the locals.



No luck...

The road gets narrower and narrower—luckily, we don’t pass anyone!

I wonder if this double barrier is really sturdy, but I’ve got no desire to test it...



The higher we go, the more the landscapes improve, and the more we feel like we’re alone in the world.

What a contrast to Split’s Peristyle!

Kilometer 23—we’ve arrived. The tiny parking lot only has a few spots, but we’re in luck.



We leave the warmth of the car for the windy chill at this altitude.



A windbreaker won’t be too much! !
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
A trail lets you circle the summit, so we head that way.





Despite a few white-knuckle moments on the road, I really don’t regret coming here!



Lunchtime has rolled around, so we go in search of a nice spot for a picnic.

Why not near the Vosac refuge, just 7 kilometers of tarmac away from here?

The descent turns out to be more nerve-wracking than the climb, and we have to pull off a few maneuvers to pass motorbikes, city cars, and vans...

A refuge, you said?

The pumpkin turned into a carriage, and even though the work isn’t quite finished yet, the restaurant next to the lodge makes us forget all about our sandwiches...





How about a little walk to help digest our Croatian-style goulash?

Biokovo Park has plenty of hiking trails, usually long and tough.

We decide to just do a small loop that will take us from the refuge to some amazing viewpoints overlooking the coast and Sveti Jure.





At kilometer 5, a traffic jam forms on the road.

Is overtourism hitting this area too?

Nah, it’s just a few cows heading back to the barn!

Once we pass the herd and cross the park barrier, we decide to drive a few kilometers on the S12, a scenic road that runs high above the Adriatic Sea.





What a peaceful vibe up here!

Oddly, all the buildings hug the coast, as if only swimming and sun loungers mattered.

As soon as you gain some altitude, it’s paradise!

But there’s nothing to sleep in, so we head back down to the coastal villages...

Our accommodation for the night is an apartment in the outskirts of Makarska.

It’s quiet and comfortable, but the view is better in the Booking photos than in real life...

So we hop back in the car for an evening stroll, hunting for a pretty panorama to wrap up this stunning day!



A flashy restaurant has set up shop here and seems to be packed.

We wisely skip it and have dinner on our terrace instead.

Bon appétit !
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Agnès is putting together a travel journal on overtourism, but there’s not a soul in the photos! 😄😛 #fakenews ?
KA Kate Globetrotter ·
She does visits the other way around! 😉

We deliberately let our few followers pass us, then we soon stop to let all that crowd get ahead. Now we’re alone!

As I’ve mentioned before, we go around, adapt, and make do...
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
In Biokovo, there’s still not much risk of ending up in a crowd except at the footbridge! 😄

I took quite a few backroads in all three countries, and it’s pretty quiet.

People only seem to care about the sea.

For sites, I rarely take wide shots.

I suspect the wide-angle photos posted online are heavily edited or were taken during Covid!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Well, if you ever manage to see the Peristyle without a single soul, let us know when...

(PM me so we don’t draw a crowd! 😄)
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I hesitated for a long time about the next part of this trip.

To stay or not to stay in Dubrovnik, to keep moving almost constantly or settle in one place for a few days?

The semi-relaxed side won out, helped along by the cost of accommodations...

Many seaside rentals enforce a minimum nightly quota, and the longer you stay, the more the price drops, with the cleaning fee spread out over the days.

All that was left was to choose the perfect spot for these 6 nights on the Dalmatian coast.

A very quiet place, not overcrowded, not disfigured by concrete, within an hour of Dubrovnik and Korčula at most.

I set my sights on the Pelješac peninsula and spot a house near Ston in a village with no restaurants, no bars, no hotels.

The price is still very reasonable—cheap, even, compared to the cost of a bungalow at a campsite in France (I wonder how they manage to stay fully booked...🤪).

Especially since the house can easily accommodate 4 adults!

I better understand the influx of Poles and other Eastern Europeans in Croatia in mid-June. The accommodations clearly match their cost of living better. And it’s not that far by car.

We’ll mostly see these nationalities during our trip, except in the port cities where cruise ships dock.

Russians too. Also by car.

How they’ve made it here since Putin set Ukraine ablaze remains a mystery...

But back to the point...

---/---

Before heading to Luka, we make a small detour to Kotisina Castle.

The entry fee is steep for what’s on offer, so we settle for a walk in the "botanical park."



The least you can say is that the place is neglected...

And what heat!

A bit of a flop to start the day...

We then follow the coast to Igrane, where we leave a few euros at the parking lot just to breathe in the sea air.



Lunchtime has long passed by the time we reach Drvenik, a small seaside resort still quite peaceful at the start of the summer season.



The restaurant we picked lives up to its reputation—we leave reluctantly!



A digestive stroll through an abandoned village in the hills above Drvenik perfectly caps off our exploration of this part of the coast.

I’m surprised these houses haven’t been renovated yet.



Sure, it’s not right by the water, but what an oasis of calm and what a lovely view!





Where do I sign for a plot in this cemetery?

The nearest big town, Ploče, is far less charming...

A Soviet-style apartment vibe and an oil terminal—hardly the stuff of dreams!

We won’t linger here and soon head toward the Pelješac cable-stayed bridge.

It feels like I’m on the Millau Viaduct after the Tarn Valley flooded!



This structure was built to bypass the only part of Bosnia-Herzegovina with a coastline, but it hasn’t yet led to overtourism on the Pelješac peninsula.

People usually just cross the bridge and the peninsula, stopping only for a couple of hours in Ston.

That won’t last...

We won’t linger today either—the rental host is waiting for us soon!

We now settle into our lodging and end this transitional day with a swim just steps away.

It’s not really a beach—more like a sea access point between the fishing port and the oyster and mussel farms, the local specialty.





But the water is clean and clear, and we’ll share the spot with only a few locals.

The water is also very cold, and it takes a long time to fully immerse ourselves...

I’d forgotten how freezing the Adriatic Sea is in June...

So had I forgotten the need to wear water shoes in this country, given the omnipresence of pebbles, rocks, and sea urchins!

In short, Croatia—yes, but not for the beach!

Luckily, that wasn’t our goal. 🙂
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Hey there! 🙂

I’ll be following your trip here instead of on My Atlas. I really like the discussions in travel journals.😉

We’ve been to Croatia twice—first in July 2009 and most recently in April 2023—and we didn’t really feel the effects of overtourism. But we’re early risers, so that helps. 😛
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
There’s always a way to adapt, work around things, make do... because we can’t change that crowd (which we’re part of) and we’ve got to see the bright side—like being able to travel, for example.

I agree with you.

I won’t ruin your travel journal with a photo, but I took one at Sérignan beach this morning. It’s July 11th, and the beaches are packed except for a few—just walk a little and accept the driftwood scattered on the sand...

Absolutely—once you walk a bit (or a lot ;)) and get away from the most touristy parking spots and viewpoints, you can often find some really peaceful spots. Waking up early and exploring before everyone else is our strategy too. :)
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Croatians aren’t very friendly with tourists

I’m surprised to read this. As for the welcome, I don’t have a specific memory from our first trip, but in 2023, we found them quite friendly. I was actually surprised by how well dogs were treated—always served first (water bowl) in restaurants.
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hey Carmen, 😉

the first time in July 2009 and the last time in April 2023, and we didn’t really suffer from overtourism

2009 feels like ages ago in terms of how fast tourism has grown in some countries, and April definitely isn’t peak summer season.

I’ll share my thoughts on overtourism at the end of my travel journal 🙂

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