Then we visit Baoxiang Temple, perched on a cliff. Many pavilions cling to the cliffside. The stairs to get there are quite long, but it’s absolutely stunning.
Then we visit the Baoxiang Temple, perched on a cliff. Many pavilions cling to the cliffside. The stairs to get there are quite long, but it’s absolutely stunning.
View from above.
The monkeys keep a close eye on us.
Some fun representations.
Next, we head to Shaxi, a town in the plains at 2,200 meters altitude. It’s a really pretty little town on the Tea Horse Road, with beautiful wooden houses.
After our city walk, we’ll take a little stroll along the river.
We’re staying at the Shaxi Aoding Courtyard Hotel. It’s really nice, well located, and we have a large, comfortable room.
After a good breakfast served at the table, we set off for Tiger Leaping Gorge.
It’s the Yangtze River (the "little crocodile") rushing through the gorge. The waters are tumultuous, and the noise is impressive. The site’s name comes from a legend about a tiger being chased by a hunter and leaping across the river in a single bound.
But from the parking lot, you have to take a staircase with 650 steps to reach the riverbank. That means climbing back up those 650 steps to return to the parking lot. We opted for the escalator... Even though there are still a few steps at the end, it’s much faster and way less tiring.
On our way to the guesthouse where we’ll be spending the night. It’s Summer's Guesthouse in the village of Walnut Grove, above the Yangtze River. And we’re off to explore the area... on foot.
In the evening, we’re enjoying our terrace overlooking the Yangtze.
The next day, we head back up to the parking lot to meet our vehicle. The luggage is picked up by a tricycle cart.
Then we’re off to Baishuitai to see the fascinating white terraces. These natural formations are the result of water springs gushing from the Haba Mountains, which over centuries have transformed into stunning cascading white marble terraces flowing down into the valley.
We continue our journey toward Shangri-La.
Along the way, we stop in the Tibetan village of Ringha to see its ancient 700-year-old monastery. Locals come here to pray for health, heal illnesses, and bless children. They hang prayer flags that dance in the wind around the monastery.
But all this beauty comes at a price... The stairs are endless....
Further on, we pass through a village and are surprised to see drying racks standing just about everywhere—in farmyards or out in the meadows.
We see our first yaks.
Our first butcher shops selling yak meat—and its genitalia.
Arrived in Shangri-La, at 3,300 meters above sea level.
Before exploring the city, we checked into our room at the Khimstang Hotel, well located near the heart of the city but in a quiet area.
Strolled through the old town and hiked up to Guishan Temple and its prayer wheel, the largest in the world.
We spent an excellent night in our large, well-heated room. We didn’t expect to have heating, but it’s a really nice plus.
At 9 AM, we hit the road to Benzilan.
As soon as we left the city, we stopped to watch the yaks—the herds of yaks. There are so many of them. Completely free. No fences. These massive animals even wander onto the road.
It’s impressive...
We’re also amazed by the size of the Tibetan houses. They’re enormous.
Next, we head to Napahai Lake. It’s overflowed into the meadows due to recent rains. The hay dryers are standing in water, and so are the prayer flags.
Chinese tourists are getting their photos taken on the back of a white yak—apparently, it brings good luck.
Our next stop is at the border of Yunnan and Sichuan, where we check out the footbridge over the Yangtze River. This bridge allowed Mao’s troops to cross the river during the 12,000-kilometer Long March between 1935 and 1936.
We’re having lunch at a roadside restaurant. We’re experiencing the shared restrooms.
A little later, we stop to see a spectacular bend in the Yangtze River, forming a perfect horseshoe around a pyramid-shaped rocky peak. It’s really beautiful.
When we arrive in Benzilan, we’re surprised to learn it’s a ceremony day at the monastery—the last day of rituals organized by the monks to bring health and good harvests for everyone. On this final day, the monks dress up in masks and dance for the villagers.
For us, the spectacle is everywhere—on the spectator side, only Tibetans, and on stage, it’s colorful and impressive.
But as foreigners, we’re not allowed to take photos, so we ask some Tibetan spectators to take some for us. No problem.
The next day, at 8:30 AM, we leave Shangri-La to head to Lijiang.
We stop to visit the Songzanlin Monastery, established in 1679 during the reign of the 5th Dalai Lama. This monastery is nicknamed the "Little Potala." It's the largest lamasery still in operation—a living place that still houses 600 monks.
We visit the three main temples.
We go up to the terrace of the central temple.
A monk explains the long journey toward reincarnation, symbolized by the black elephant that turns white.
Here again, there are plenty of stairs. Visitors are numerous too, but mostly—or even exclusively—Asian.
When arriving in Lijiang, we head straight to the Dongba Museum. It’s dedicated to the Dongba culture of the Naxi people.
The 1,400 characters and symbols of the Dongba script are on display there. These are ideograms still in use today.
The museum is located right across from the entrance to Black Dragon Pool Park. You could use cute little vehicles to get around, but we’ll explore it on foot.
Here, people come to stroll, dance, sing, make music, or paint.
It’s charming, floral, and zen.
Everyone stops to capture the moment and take the iconic photo of the lake, bridge, and temple with the snowy (or not) mountain backdrop. It’s the signature shot of Yunnan.
You used an agency, but do you think it's possible to manage without one, or would it be too complicated?
I’m not sure if you met any travelers who did everything without an agency?
I’ve read other travel journals from people who used an agency, so I’m wondering....
Everything is doable...
As far as we're concerned, we didn't meet any Westerners traveling completely independently. It can be done. Travel journals prove it.
But the challenge is the language barrier. Very few Chinese people speak English.
We met some French travelers who had a driver—non-French-speaking, of course.
That’s actually what we did for the last week.
We used translators on our phones, but I found it wasn’t enough. Personally, I need to communicate more than that; I need to learn more than that.
The ideal would be to travel with a driver and have a French-speaking guide at the most interesting sites. That’s what we had in Uzbekistan. It was easier to organize because there were fewer cultural sites, though they were extremely interesting. But in China, there are many cities worth visiting. Having a guide is a plus, especially when they’re friendly...
We’re not used to traveling with an agency, and we hesitated about going in a group, which was also the case for the other people traveling with us. But if we had to do it again, we’d do it without hesitation. Maybe we’re getting a little older too... And we were lucky to have a very efficient agency, a great guide, and a group that worked really well together.
That’s how I feel about it.
Hoping this answers your questions...
Absolutely. And even beyond that, it’s not that simple... we met a woman of Chinese origin who lives in France and was traveling with her son. She told us it was complicated to travel solo...
Thanks again for this travel journal that takes me right back to my recent trip. The places in the photos feel so familiar...
I’m also really surprised there aren’t more reactions from other travelers, since so many complain that VF is much less active than it used to be.
Regarding traveling in China:
As I explain in my blog and on VF, it’s completely possible to travel in China without an agency. It really depends on the itinerary you have in mind.
We went to Gansu with a detour to the Badain Jaran Desert without an agency and were pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to organize everything on the spot. Of course, I’d done a lot of prep work beforehand.
Same thing in Hunan.
For the Yunnan part, we used Ciel Yunnan to book a car with a driver for us. No guide, though. This "option" let us optimize our route.
We’re planning a trip to western Sichuan. We’ll probably go for the same mode of transport.
Almost 20 years ago, I traveled alone with my daughter in China, especially in eastern Sichuan. Everything was done without an agency back then, too, but those were more touristy routes.
After this lovely walk, we head to the town of Shuhe, at the gates of Lijiang. Our vehicle drops us off at the entrance to the old town, which isn’t accessible by car. Our luggage is immediately picked up and taken to our hotel.
Our hotel is right in the heart of the ancient city but quiet, with a large adjoining vegetable garden.
It’s The Bivou hotel—very modern and comfortable. We’re welcomed with tea, homemade gingerbread, and clementines.
We settle into our room—super comfortable and gorgeous.
And we don’t waste any time heading out to explore the old town’s streets. It’s charming.
Back at the hotel, which has a VPN, we can receive and open photos sent to us and also send photos to our loved ones. We really appreciate this feature—it hasn’t been possible anywhere else.
The next day after an excellent buffet breakfast, we set off to visit Lijiang, a city classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's a city built around canals.
We enter the city at the large noria (waterwheel).
It's beautifully flowered and superbly maintained.
To facilitate commercial exchanges, the city was never surrounded by walls. It was the women who ran the caravanserais. Among the Naxi, women do everything.... The city developed thanks to trade because the land wasn't fertile.
Today it's a tourist city, but it's quiet this morning. In the evening, the atmosphere seems to be different.
Hi everyone, We're currently planning our itinerary for this summer (late July - August) in China. Our travel style is more backpacker-oriented we're used to…
Hi everyone,
So, big departure for me next week—I can’t wait! +++
Here’s my itinerary; feel free to leave your comments. Just to let you know, skipping Jiuzhaigou was a choice on our part :/. And if you have any updated prices, since the ones I noted are from the internet and might not be current.
-21: Arrival at 16:25 in Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-22: Beijing Ming Tombs (20¥)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-23: Beijing
°Night train to Xi’an
-24: Xi’an -Terracotta Army (45¥ Steven, 90¥ me)
-Night market in the Muslim Quarter
°Xi’an Guoha Hotel Apartment
-25: Xi’an -Big Wild Goose Pagoda (31¥)
°Xi’an Guoha Hotel Apartment
-26: Xi’an -City Walls (20¥ Steven, 40¥ me)
°Night train to Chengdu
-27: Chengdu -Giant Panda Research Base (58¥)
°Hanting Hotel Chengdu Huayang Branch
-28: Chengdu -Qingyang Taoist Palace (5¥)
°Hanting Hotel Chengdu Huayang Branch
-29: Departure for Mount Emei
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-30: Mount Emei -Wannian Temple (180¥ me, 90¥ Steven)
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-31: Mount Emei
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-1: Departure for Leshan
°Le Cheng Hotel
-2: Leshan -Leshan Giant Buddha (50¥ by boat)
°Le Cheng Hotel
-3: Departure for Chongqing
°Hanting Hotel Chongqing Chengjiaping Branch
-4: Departure for Dazu -Dazu Rock Carvings (80¥)
°Kaka Theme Apartment
-5: Departure for Chongqing
°Letu Hostel
-6: Chongqing -Eling Park
-Ancient town of Ciqikou
°Letu Hostel
-7: Chongqing -Hongyadong shopping street
°Letu Hostel
-8: Chongqing
°Night train to Zhengzhou
-9: Zhengzhou -Shaolin Temple (130¥)
°Love Home Apartment
-10: Zhengzhou -Mount Song Shan
°Night train to Beijing
-11: Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-12: Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-13: Beijing -Great Wall of China (64¥ with bus)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-14: Beijing Summer Palace (40-50¥)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-15: Beijing -Forbidden City (80¥ with audio guide)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-16: Beijing
I’m currently in the process of booking my hotels.
I have a question about these two apps. I’m planning to use trips.com to book my trains (if I understood correctly, that’s the best way to do it).
Is there any advantage to booking hotels with trips.com, or can I keep using Booking? (I’m used to the interface.) My hidden question is whether it’ll work smoothly when I’m there (for new bookings or retrieving the ones I’ve already made).
I’m starting to think about a trip to Japan, though I haven’t yet decided on the exact duration or itinerary, and I have a few questions for those who know the country well or have traveled there recently.
First, about getting around: what do you think are the most economical and reliable ways to travel across Japan and move between cities? I’m thinking of trains, overnight buses, domestic flights, regional passes, etc. I’m not necessarily looking for the fastest option, but rather a good balance between cost, simplicity, and reliability.
I also have a question about the return ticket. Since I don’t yet know how long I’ll stay in Japan—or even if I’ll return directly to France (I might continue to another Asian country)—is it mandatory to have a return or exit ticket before entering Japan? Would a ticket to another Asian country suffice?
Regarding accommodation, I usually prefer staying in youth hostels rather than hotels. Are hostels easy to find all over Japan, including outside Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka? And what’s the average budget per night for something clean and well-located?
Finally, I’d like to get an idea of the overall budget for the trip. Is Japan still relatively affordable when traveling simply, or do expenses add up quickly? I’m mainly thinking about:
transportation between cities;
local transportation;
youth hostels;
food;
potential domestic flights.
My plan is to travel fairly freely, without necessarily booking everything in advance, so I can adjust my itinerary or stay longer in places I like.
If anyone has traveled this way in Japan, I’d love to hear about your experiences, tips, and maybe an idea of the daily budget to expect.
I’m currently planning a trip to Japan with my two kids.
Before going any further, my main question is about the budget. While flights are pretty straightforward—just compare prices—when it comes to daily expenses, I have no idea what to expect.
We’re thinking of traveling between mid-July (around the 19th, give or take 2-3 days) and mid-August (returning by August 20th at the latest).
Duration: 15 days (though we could stretch it by 2-3 days if it makes sense price-wise).
Family of 4, including two kids aged 9 and 12.
Before we had kids, we used to travel pretty "rough" and book things on the spot (we often took basic flights), but this time, it might be trickier. That said, we’re not looking for luxury—just somewhere decent to sleep and shower so we can save money for as many activities and sightseeing as possible.
For those who’ve recently had a family trip like this or are familiar with Japan, I’d love any advice—especially what a reasonable daily budget might look like (or at least the absolute minimum to make the trip feasible).
Thanks in advance!
P.S.: I’ll admit I struggled a bit with the categories, so if this post needs to be moved, no problem! ;-)
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
Hi there,
I’m planning my trip for May. Here’s my itinerary for 4.5 days in Seoul:
May 5: afternoon at Mangwon Market, Mangridan-gil, Han River
May 6: Gyeongbokgung, Tongin Market & Seochon, Bukchon, Insadong, Jogyesa Temple, and Ikseon-dong
May 7: Namdaemun Market, Deoksugung Palace, stroll along Cheonggyecheon, Seoullo 7017, Hongdae
May 8:Changdeokgung + Changgyeonggung, Gwangjang Market, Jongmyo Shrine, Jongno Boulevard for the big parade
May 9:Morning in Gangnam, Bongeunsa, Namsangol Hanok Village, N Seoul Tower Plaza
What do you think of this itinerary? Is there anything I should add, remove, or swap out? I tried to keep travel time to a minimum, but I might be missing something. I’d love to hear all your thoughts—thanks!
Philippe
According to my calculations, I’ll be in Zhangjiajie on Monday, November 16th. I adjusted my itinerary to avoid the weekend.
I’m wondering:
1- Do I need to book the park entrance in advance (like, is there a visitor limit?)
2- I plan to take the elevator and maybe a cable car (I’ll walk the rest—I’m in good shape). Should I book those too, or can I sort it out when I arrive?
3- On Wednesday, November 18th, I’m aiming for Tianmen Mountain. Same question—do I need to reserve? I read it’s under construction right now. And apparently, it’s line C.
3 bis - Also, is it possible to go all the way to the top by bus only, without the cable car, and finish on foot?
Hi everyone, I’m preparing for a one-month trip in October. I’m traveling solo and would love to explore the countryside, but I’m also wondering if there are any themed urban hikes or walks. In Japan, I did some themed city tours, especially by bike.
Thanks for any tips you can share!
Marie
Hi,
Our trip is planned for 20 days in Japan next April. We have a free subscription that would allow us to use 35 GB (I’m a bit confused), but we also need to be able to make phone calls with a French couple traveling with us for a few days, and that seems impossible due to cost... Any solutions for using GPS while keeping those 35 GB? Used to traveling in Southeast Asia, we usually rely on local SIM cards. Is it easy to do the same in Japan?
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Tialou
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
I’ve booked my flight ticket to China, arriving in Hong Kong and departing from Chongqing.
I have 27 nights there.
Here’s my draft itinerary:
Hong Kong arrival (minimum 3 nights + 1 night for Macau)
Shenzhen (1 night – immigration, day and night city visit)
Guangzhou (2 nights – 2 days of sightseeing)
Yangshuo (3 nights – 2 full days)
Passing through Guilin (0 nights – 1 day)
Longsheng or Longji Rice Terraces Green (2 nights)
Sanjiang (1 night)
Kunming (1 night)
Dali (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Lijiang (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Shangri-La (1 night)
Chengdu (2 nights – 1 full day for Buddha)
Zhangjiajie (4 nights – 4 days)
Chongqing (2 nights)
I have an efficient travel style (I wake up very early and generally move quickly).
I don’t want to see the Stone Forest in Kunming because it looks too much like the Tsingy in Madagascar.
What do you think?
Thanks for any kind of feedback.
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
Hi,
I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed).
I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years.
Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.?
I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku.
Thanks.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change?
thanks
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
The theater.
But all this beauty comes at a price... The stairs are endless....
It’s impressive...
Chinese tourists are getting their photos taken on the back of a white yak—apparently, it brings good luck.
Our hotel is right in the heart of the ancient city but quiet, with a large adjoining vegetable garden.
Back at the hotel, which has a VPN, we can receive and open photos sent to us and also send photos to our loved ones. We really appreciate this feature—it hasn’t been possible anywhere else.
Today it's a tourist city, but it's quiet this morning. In the evening, the atmosphere seems to be different.
