Three Passes Trek in Nepal
FR

Translated into English.

JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
Personally, I’ve always thought Gokyo RI is a must, even when crossing Renjo La. The view of the lakes is just incredible.
VA Vadoor ·
So to sum up, it's better to add a stop between Lukla and Namche in Phakding, and likewise between Deboche and Dingboche in Pangboche. Plus, the detour to Ama Dablam Base Camp really appeals to me! 🙂

As for the stages on the way down—Lume, Thame, Namche—I listed those villages as examples. If I like a village along the route and the timing works out, I’ll stop there.

Next, is Kala Patthar to Dzonglha too long a stage? On the map, it looks pretty far apart. So, to be safe, I’m planning 25 days between my outbound and return flights—20 days for the trek and 5 days as a buffer. If I bring the equivalent of 1000 € in cash, do you think I can do the trek without depriving myself too much?

On a lighter note, is there a bar or a meet-up spot in Namche? Just to grab a beer, have a laugh before really diving into the trek.

Thanks for your answers, have a great evening!
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Phakding is a trekker hotspot. It's better to push further if you're looking for peace and authenticity. For example, all the way to Bengkar, or even Chhumowa (just before Monjo). That said, Phakding has the advantage of being covered by EverestLink for internet wifi.

In Namche, there are likely more bars and hotels than Sherpa homes. That’s why I don’t recommend stopping there on the way back.

If it’s essential to your happiness, there’s a nightclub across from the Valley View Lodge, almost at the end of the main street. It closed around 10 PM when I stayed at the Valley View Lodge (rustic, reasonable prices, friendly didi, but the owner was unfortunately unpleasant).

Thame is a real village, even if the homes are spread out. Most of the Khumbu’s potatoes come from there, so prices are cheaper. It also has a gonpa where a team of monks lives. In Namche Bazaar, there’s only one resident lama to collect offerings from tourists 😒.

Between Thame and Namche, the village of Thamo has its charm. Nighttime lighting is powered by solar panels. I even saw an ad for tax optimization and wealth management—targeting Sherpas, not trekkers.

kala patthar->dzonglha sa fait pas trop long comme étape ? on the map it looks quite far.

That’s exactly what I did—at nearly 58, not athletic, solo, and without a porter. Once you leave the main trekking "avenue," it’s mostly a pleasant balcony trail. You only need to climb a bit near the lake (Chola Tsho) to reach Dzonglha.

Fabrice
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
So to be safe, I think I’ll plan for 25 days between my outbound and return flights, with 20 days of trekking and 5 days as a buffer.

Returning overland lets you avoid the hassles of return flights from Lukla.

Ground transport obviously has its own uncertainties, but they’re much less frequent than flights between Lukla and Kathmandu. This way, you don’t have to add too many buffer days in Kathmandu (I still planned for 2, which among other things let me revisit Bhaktapur, which I love).

If I bring the equivalent of 1000 € in cash, do you think I can do the trek without depriving myself too much?

With a rustic consumption (local meals, including breakfast, no soda, no alcohol, no tea, only water disinfected with Pyush, just 2 hot showers), I spent a total of 28,780 rupees (224 €) for 17 days, from Paiya back to Paiya (as shown in my itinerary). That includes the Sagarmatha National Park entry fee (3,000 Rs), the Khumbu local tax (2,000 Rs), and the 10 GB EverestLink package (2,000 Rs). It’s really all-inclusive.

Excluding transport, my 25 days of trekking cost me 276 €.

On top of that, I had to add my food purchases in Kathmandu: - Nepalese muesli (500 g): 110 Rs (vs. 140 Rs in Thamel) - Nak cheese (638 g): 890 Rs (1,400 Rs/kg) - 3 x 200 g yellow raisins: 3 x 140 Rs, so 420 Rs total. - Pyush (60 ml): 25 Rs. For purifying water. Muesli and cheese were eaten as picnic food when crossing the passes, then as a supplement.

Note: You can find cheaper nak cheese in Namche Bazaar (I think 1,100 Rs), but I found it less tasty. So I didn’t buy it.

Fabrice

P.S.: I had to leave with 1,500 €, but my trekking budget was only 360 €.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
add a stage (...) between Deboche and Dingboche at Pangboche, plus I’d love the detour to Ama Dablam base camp

Ama Dablam is THE stunning mountain of the Khumbu.

To avoid the crowds clogging the trekker highway, it’s better to go via Phortse village (a real village, not a trekker ghetto), staying on the right bank of the valley. Sure, you can’t visit the super touristy Tengboche gompa, but you get amazing views of Ama Dablam.

Between Phortse and Pangboche, there’s a lovely wild trail, usually a balcony path, but it’s "Nepali flat"—meaning ups and downs.

In Pangboche, the village and its gompa are in what’s called "Upper Pangboche." You arrive there directly when coming from Phortse.

Fabrice
VA Vadoor ·
Thanks for all these answers.

They answered the questions I had, and now I’ve got an itinerary/plan that holds up thanks to you. Even if I don’t follow the stages to the letter, I’ve got an overall view of the trek and its steps.

For the walk back, it’s true that I’m pretty tempted, but it means I’d only book a one-way flight from Kathmandu. And if for some reason I don’t have the time or the chance to walk back, it’s apparently hard to get a return flight seat if it’s not booked in advance. I’m still undecided about this part. Anyway, I really want to take a flight at least for the outbound—Lukla Airport’s reputation and uniqueness make me really want to experience it at least once.

Budget-wise, I’ll be well within my limits, and I’m really happy about that (glad to see my 55–60 hours a week at work aren’t for nothing and are paying off 🙂 ).

As for nightlife, I’m not looking for a nightclub (I can’t stand dancing, and loud music gets on my nerves), but if I understood correctly, there are still bars where I can go for a beer (or two ). That’s all I’m asking for.

Thanks again, and have a great evening
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Budget-wise, I’d be quite comfortable

I did specify “rustic consumption.” Generally, experienced Anglo-Saxon trekkers mention $30–40 per day.

Keep in mind that prices rise sharply with altitude, which makes sense when you realize everything is carried up from Phaplu or delivered by helicopter.

Expenses will therefore depend on how much time you spend at high altitude, beyond Pangboche, the last village inhabited year-round.

On the other hand, most prices in Namche Bazaar are excessive. So, except at the porters’ canteens at the village entrance, daal bhat costs more than the 500 Rs charged in Gokyo. Namche hotel owners take advantage of trekkers’ lack of price knowledge when they first arrive in the Khumbu.

The worst I saw was a hotel in Junbesi offering daal bhat for 700 Rs 😠. That’s exactly what I paid in Gorak Shep, even though Junbesi is now accessible by road.

Fabrice
DN Dniorthe Veteran ·
Hi, I did the Gorakshep - Base Camp - Dzongla route in a day... a bit long, though, with a lunch break in Gorakshep.

Regarding travel times, it's best to start early in the morning. Meals around 11 a.m., tea breaks... Dingboche to Namche or Gokyo to Namche can be done in a day, same for Namche to Lukla on the way back.

For flights, it's possible to find a flight for the next day if you book the evening before. By arriving early in Lukla (2 p.m.), you can leave at 7 a.m. for Namche... but not with Yeti or Tara airlines since groups get priority. The Kumbu Resort Lodge in Lukla is a place where they handle Yeti/Tara and sell and check in for Simrik. In any case, it worked for me. Dominique
BU Bub Veteran ·
For the descent from Thame, you can skip Namche since you’ll have already done it on the way up. There’s a trail on the right bank that goes via Kondge and comes out between Monjo and Phakding. You’ll need to check in Thame if it’s passable—depending on the season, there can be icy sections, which you sometimes see from Mamche.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Are you talking about Kongde Ridge? - It's long and tough - There's only one overpriced lodge up there. Otherwise, you need camping gear.
BU Bub Veteran ·
Yeah, But I wasn’t thinking of stopping at Kongde. I did part of it in the opposite direction to acclimatize, starting from Monjo. Going uphill, it’s probably long, and since you’re not necessarily acclimatized, I don’t recommend it—plus, at the start, the trail isn’t easy to find. On the other hand, on the way down, especially after doing the Three Passes, it’s doable.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Getting from Thame to Monjo in a single day seems impossible to me.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Check out https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6328876;a=6328876 who did Thame -> Kongde -> Toktok (downstream from Monjo).

But reading their full Three Passes Trek account shows they're a really strong hiker. Personally, I ruled out that option and was happy with Thame -> Bengkar via Namche Bazar.

Fabrice
BU Bub Veteran ·
11 hours total, no longer than a solid ascent with descent.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
So it's not for just any trekker. Especially since not everyone tackles positive elevation gain at the same pace.

Fabrice
BU Bub Veteran ·
In the direction I'm talking about, it's mostly downhill (-1,500 m)
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Sure, it’s downhill at the end toward Toktok.

But before that, you’ll have to push hard to climb up to Kongde at 4,250 m from a low point of 3,400 m. That’s still a minimum positive elevation gain of 850 m. Even if it’s mostly downhill, you still have to ascend those 850 m. Not to mention the "Nepali flat" with its ups and downs.

Fabrice
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Yeah, but I tried it from Thame. It’s not a direct climb—it’s a long traverse. And that north face stays in the shade the whole time. Result: icy patches all over the trail and the steps. So, I turned back.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Always be cautious with exported tracks. I've used them a lot and eventually figured out why some results varied so much for the same route.

1) Only 656 points over 7h31' of recording (1 point every 41'), which can miss small climbs/descents. The altitude difference is accurate, but the elevation gain is underestimated.

2) Moving time of just 1h18'. I'm really skeptical about that. The GPS device used might not be reliable.

On top of that, GPS can be a bit inaccurate when you're at the bottom of a valley, with steep slopes blocking the view of some satellites.

Anyway, my map shows the trail descends to 3,400 m (consistent with Namche Bazar) at its lowest point before the climb to Kongde.

Either way, 721 m or 850 m of elevation gain isn’t a casual stroll, even if you're acclimatized.

Fabrice

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