Namaste à tous!
Actuellement au Népal, j aimerais avoir un tuyau pour une GH peace à Palpa, Lumbini et Sauhara (je serai demain à sauhara)
merci à vous tous
Isabelle
Bonjour . Si vous connaissez Pokhara et avez des coup de coeur à partager je cherche à me loger 3 ou 4 jours fin septembre . Nous serons deux amateurs de tranquillité et de rencontre avec les gens du coin. Pour cette raison je préfère éviter Lakeside center. Merci pour vos suggestions.
Bonjour , j aimerait partir 1 mois au nepal que pourriez vous me consseillez et quel sont les trucs a eviter , je suis un mec seul , j aime le sport la marche y compris , je voudrait voir des choses qu on ne voit pas partout genre des temples hindou ou boudhiste ou autres ; Merci de faire partager.
Bonjour a tous, je cherche à pratiquer ou plutôt une retraite pour ma pratique spirituelle (Meditation . Yoga. Jeune ) dans le calme avec des cours d'eau quelle lieu pouvez vous me conseiller j'hésite entre le Nepal et rishikesh ? d'après votre expérience quelle lieu et il préférable ?
Merci a vous 😄
Merci a vous 😄
Bonjour tout le monde,
Je pars au Népal en octobre et dois être à New Delhi le 01 novembre. J’aimerais ne pas prendre l’avion. Mais je lis des commentaires comme quoi la route pour passer la frontière n’est pas hyper safe (vols de sac, ...). Quelqu’un saurait me renseigner?
Merci 😊🙏
Je pars au Népal en octobre et dois être à New Delhi le 01 novembre. J’aimerais ne pas prendre l’avion. Mais je lis des commentaires comme quoi la route pour passer la frontière n’est pas hyper safe (vols de sac, ...). Quelqu’un saurait me renseigner?
Merci 😊🙏
Bonjour,
Le Népal est dans mon collimateur de randonneur mais si ce pays est connu pour ces treks il l'est aussi pour ses amateurs de fumette, or je suis pour mon plus grand malheur sensible à la fumée.
Ma question est simple: est-il possible de fréquenter ce pays sans être enfumé? 😐
Le risque d'enfumement est-il restreint à Katmandou où y a-t-il un risque de se retrouver piégé dans un lodge d'un village perdu dans la montagne? 🤪
Accessoirement: la pollution atmosphérique de Katmandou... est-elle ce qui se fait de pire en la matière? (mauvais souvenir de celles de Bangkok et de Delhi)
Ma question est simple: est-il possible de fréquenter ce pays sans être enfumé? 😐
Le risque d'enfumement est-il restreint à Katmandou où y a-t-il un risque de se retrouver piégé dans un lodge d'un village perdu dans la montagne? 🤪
Accessoirement: la pollution atmosphérique de Katmandou... est-elle ce qui se fait de pire en la matière? (mauvais souvenir de celles de Bangkok et de Delhi)
Bonjour à tous,
Pour notre premier voyage au Népal en avril, j'ai prévu environ 7 jours dans la vallée de KTM (Patan, Bodnath, Bhaktapur, Dhulikel, Panauti...).
A vous lire, j'ai plutôt envie d'aller dormir en dehors de KTM et de Thamel. Je pensais à Patan ou Bodnath. Ceux qui connaissent peuvent-ils me dire laquelle des deux villes présente la meilleure alternative ? Et laquelle des deux vous semble la plus pratique comme pied à terre pour découvrir les alentours de KTM en bus ou en taxi ?
Je précise que j'ai prévu de passer quelques nuits à Bhaktapur ensuite pour des balades dans le secteur.
Grand merci par avance pour vos retours. Bon week-end !
A vous lire, j'ai plutôt envie d'aller dormir en dehors de KTM et de Thamel. Je pensais à Patan ou Bodnath. Ceux qui connaissent peuvent-ils me dire laquelle des deux villes présente la meilleure alternative ? Et laquelle des deux vous semble la plus pratique comme pied à terre pour découvrir les alentours de KTM en bus ou en taxi ?
Je précise que j'ai prévu de passer quelques nuits à Bhaktapur ensuite pour des balades dans le secteur.
Grand merci par avance pour vos retours. Bon week-end !
Salut j'estime un budget de 1700 euros ( sur place , hors avion, assurance etc) donc (trajets, nourriture et visas), guest house, pour trois mois en faisant le nord de l'Inde ( Johpur, Jaipur, Delhi, Benares ... ), 1 mois au Ladhak et 1 mois au Népal.
C'est trop peu ou faut plancher sur 2000 euros voir plus pour 3 mois dans ces trois régions?
Je bouge en bus locaux, et mange local ( restau de rue ) quand je voyage
bien à vous
C'est trop peu ou faut plancher sur 2000 euros voir plus pour 3 mois dans ces trois régions?
Je bouge en bus locaux, et mange local ( restau de rue ) quand je voyage
bien à vous
Salut , sur 1 mois est il possible de faire ceci en Inde sans courir:
New Delhi ( point de chute ) > Agra> Kanpur> Allahmabad > Vanarasi > gorakhpur > Frontière Népalaise ( sur 1 mois )
Puis direction Katmandu où je resterais deux mois au Nepal.
Si vous avez d'autres places à me conseiller en 1 mois sur ce trajet, c'est la bienvenu si jsuis large. ( lucknow? )
Autre question:
Entre gorakhpur et kathmandu, ou puis-je m’arrêter au Nepal? Je ne suis pas obligé de me rendre à la capitale de suite. D'ailleurs gorakhpur est t'elle une ville intéressante?
Bien à vous. 😉
New Delhi ( point de chute ) > Agra> Kanpur> Allahmabad > Vanarasi > gorakhpur > Frontière Népalaise ( sur 1 mois )
Puis direction Katmandu où je resterais deux mois au Nepal.
Si vous avez d'autres places à me conseiller en 1 mois sur ce trajet, c'est la bienvenu si jsuis large. ( lucknow? )
Autre question:
Entre gorakhpur et kathmandu, ou puis-je m’arrêter au Nepal? Je ne suis pas obligé de me rendre à la capitale de suite. D'ailleurs gorakhpur est t'elle une ville intéressante?
Bien à vous. 😉
Bonjour,
Je me prépare à réaliser mon rêve de toujours... Aller au bout du monde et voir L'Everest! Je lis, je fignole, je découvre les 3 sisters. Mais j'ai envie de plus!
Je sais que je souhaite faire katmandou, pokhara, le parc aux éléphants, une retraite de yoga. J'aurai 5 semaines du début octobre à la mi novembre.
J'aimerais connaître vos incontournables, vos surprises, vos découvertes underground du Népal. Vos restaurants préférés, guest house, hotels, lieux de yoga et méditation, ville magiques...
Faites moi salivez que je découvre encore plus ce que j'ai envie d'aller découvrir là-bas. Merci de prendre le temps. Christine
Je me prépare à réaliser mon rêve de toujours... Aller au bout du monde et voir L'Everest! Je lis, je fignole, je découvre les 3 sisters. Mais j'ai envie de plus!
Je sais que je souhaite faire katmandou, pokhara, le parc aux éléphants, une retraite de yoga. J'aurai 5 semaines du début octobre à la mi novembre.
J'aimerais connaître vos incontournables, vos surprises, vos découvertes underground du Népal. Vos restaurants préférés, guest house, hotels, lieux de yoga et méditation, ville magiques...
Faites moi salivez que je découvre encore plus ce que j'ai envie d'aller découvrir là-bas. Merci de prendre le temps. Christine
Bonjour
Je cherche une bonne adresse pour hébergement chambre plus douche dans la chambre à KTM pour moins de 10€. Ca existe en dehors du quratier de Thamel?
Quelqu'un peut-il me renseigner sur la Family Peace House à pankjol?
Merci
Bonjour à tous, je viens de m’inscrire sur ce forum pour vous adresser un long message.
J’ai bientôt 20 ans, je désire partir pour un voyage de 5-6 mois en Inde et au Népal. C’est mon premier voyage solitaire dans un autre pays, aussi beaucoup de questions se bousculent dans ma tête. Pour faire un résumé bref de ce qui m’amène à un pareil voyage, ma soif d’immensité et d’ailleurs m’empêchent de vivre sereinement chez moi. Mon besoin de partir et d’embrasser le monde me rend comme un lion en cage, à Paris. Je dois partir.
J’aimerais m’en aller pour Mars 2012, à peu près. J’ai la vague idée d’arriver à New Delhi, de faire Agra, puis Bénarès, tout ça en prenant bien mon temps, puis de rejoindre le Népal pour entamer la deuxième partie de mon voyage. Je compte partir avec un budget de 3000 euros, je ne peux pas faire mieux. Qu’en pensez-vous ? Je m’imagine l’Inde comme un tourbillon, comme une expérience explosive et profonde, je me questionne sur mon état d’esprit une fois livré à moi-même, seul, dans ce pays. Je fais ce voyage dans une certaine quête spirituelle, j’aimerais comprendre davantage la philosophie de ce pays, le regard si différent sur le réel. Suis-je trop idéaliste ?
Pour le Népal, j’aimerais m’y rendre comme une sorte de refuge, d’isolement après la furie de l’Inde, me permettant de travailler sur moi-même, dans un repos et une belle solitude. Je rêve de mettre enfin une trêve dans le cours maladif de ma vie, au milieu des forêts et des montagnes. Encore une fois, je sais que mon idéal fait sourire gentiment, mais vous qui avez voyagé, puis-je trouver un lieu en accord avec ma recherche intérieure ?
Je crains peu la solitude, ni le danger : je suis habitué aux longues randonnées solitaires. Cependant, je suis mauvais en Anglais, du niveau 6ème pour être optimiste. Cela m’inquiète un peu. Une image trouble mon esprit : je me vois sortir de l’aéroport de New Delhi, perdu dans un monde lointain et bruyant, à la recherche d’un hôtel, frénétique au milieu de la foule, sans moyen de me faire comprendre et de trouver un chemin. Et bientôt la folie m’emportera…non je rigole, mais voilà…c’est juste le premier jour qui m’inquiète beaucoup.
Pour les vaccins, je ne sais pas lesquels faire, s’ils sont vraiment nécessaires…Pour les visas, je ne sais pas comment cela fonctionne, ni si je dois prendre aussi mon visa pour le Népal avant de partir. Voilà, je suis un amateur total dans l’organisation de ce voyage. Si vous avez une quelconque aide, je serais avide de la connaître pour parfaire mes chances de réussites et de ne pas finir noyer dans le Gange, ou traîner par un éléphant au milieu de mendiants sans bras. J’ai des milliers de questions à vous poser pour tout vous dire, mais pour l’instant je me contente de vous envoyer ce message en attendant impatiemment des premières réponses (même si, je vous l’accorde, je n’ai pas posé de questions très définies).
Un grand merci.
J’ai bientôt 20 ans, je désire partir pour un voyage de 5-6 mois en Inde et au Népal. C’est mon premier voyage solitaire dans un autre pays, aussi beaucoup de questions se bousculent dans ma tête. Pour faire un résumé bref de ce qui m’amène à un pareil voyage, ma soif d’immensité et d’ailleurs m’empêchent de vivre sereinement chez moi. Mon besoin de partir et d’embrasser le monde me rend comme un lion en cage, à Paris. Je dois partir.
J’aimerais m’en aller pour Mars 2012, à peu près. J’ai la vague idée d’arriver à New Delhi, de faire Agra, puis Bénarès, tout ça en prenant bien mon temps, puis de rejoindre le Népal pour entamer la deuxième partie de mon voyage. Je compte partir avec un budget de 3000 euros, je ne peux pas faire mieux. Qu’en pensez-vous ? Je m’imagine l’Inde comme un tourbillon, comme une expérience explosive et profonde, je me questionne sur mon état d’esprit une fois livré à moi-même, seul, dans ce pays. Je fais ce voyage dans une certaine quête spirituelle, j’aimerais comprendre davantage la philosophie de ce pays, le regard si différent sur le réel. Suis-je trop idéaliste ?
Pour le Népal, j’aimerais m’y rendre comme une sorte de refuge, d’isolement après la furie de l’Inde, me permettant de travailler sur moi-même, dans un repos et une belle solitude. Je rêve de mettre enfin une trêve dans le cours maladif de ma vie, au milieu des forêts et des montagnes. Encore une fois, je sais que mon idéal fait sourire gentiment, mais vous qui avez voyagé, puis-je trouver un lieu en accord avec ma recherche intérieure ?
Je crains peu la solitude, ni le danger : je suis habitué aux longues randonnées solitaires. Cependant, je suis mauvais en Anglais, du niveau 6ème pour être optimiste. Cela m’inquiète un peu. Une image trouble mon esprit : je me vois sortir de l’aéroport de New Delhi, perdu dans un monde lointain et bruyant, à la recherche d’un hôtel, frénétique au milieu de la foule, sans moyen de me faire comprendre et de trouver un chemin. Et bientôt la folie m’emportera…non je rigole, mais voilà…c’est juste le premier jour qui m’inquiète beaucoup.
Pour les vaccins, je ne sais pas lesquels faire, s’ils sont vraiment nécessaires…Pour les visas, je ne sais pas comment cela fonctionne, ni si je dois prendre aussi mon visa pour le Népal avant de partir. Voilà, je suis un amateur total dans l’organisation de ce voyage. Si vous avez une quelconque aide, je serais avide de la connaître pour parfaire mes chances de réussites et de ne pas finir noyer dans le Gange, ou traîner par un éléphant au milieu de mendiants sans bras. J’ai des milliers de questions à vous poser pour tout vous dire, mais pour l’instant je me contente de vous envoyer ce message en attendant impatiemment des premières réponses (même si, je vous l’accorde, je n’ai pas posé de questions très définies).
Un grand merci.
Bonjour, je viens de tomber sur ça
qui va je pense changer radicalement l'aspect de la zone touristique de Pokhara.
D'après vous, c'est plutôt 🙂 ou 🤪 ?
@ +
D'après vous, c'est plutôt 🙂 ou 🤪 ?
@ +
bonjour a tous,
je prepare mon voyage au Népal pour 3 semaines du 22 avril au 12mai 2012
j'aimerrai avoir vos avis sur les lieux atypiques, les bons plans et les incontournables histoire de preparrer au mieux mon séjour.
cordialement,
Mathias
NAMASTE NEPAL! PRACTICAL INFO AND EXPERIENCE FEEDBACK
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Hi everyone,
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
Bonjour,
Je me pose une question.
J'utilise toujours un vpn quand je suis sur internet. En arrivant au Népal, je me suis rendu compte que mon vpn ne marchait plus dès que j'ai activé la puce de Ncell.
Du coup, j'en ai essayé un autre mais il semblerait que cela ne marche pas.
Avez vous eu pour ceux qui en utilisent les mêmes soucis ou Ncell a configuré ce qu'il faut pour bloquer les vpn ?
Merci
Je me pose une question.
J'utilise toujours un vpn quand je suis sur internet. En arrivant au Népal, je me suis rendu compte que mon vpn ne marchait plus dès que j'ai activé la puce de Ncell.
Du coup, j'en ai essayé un autre mais il semblerait que cela ne marche pas.
Avez vous eu pour ceux qui en utilisent les mêmes soucis ou Ncell a configuré ce qu'il faut pour bloquer les vpn ?
Merci
Diverses questions pour cette boucle SVP:
- durée? difficulté? beaux paysages: panoramiques ou non? qualité du balisage? Y a-t-il des sentiers en flanc de colline? etc... Bref, une rando d'un jour (sans doute) pour une mise en jambe.
Précision: je serai "déposé" à Kalopani par le bus venant de Ghasa. Période: fin novembre.
Merci pour vos réponses.
Je souhaite visiter Chitwan en Novembre en partant de Katmandou. Quel est le meilleur moyen pour s'y rendre ? Et avez-vous des adresses de logements sympas pour 2 ou 3 nuits.
Bonjour,
Je pars pour Katmandou en octobre et j’aimerais que vous me recommandiez un hostel pour quelques jours à Katmandou. Un endroit agréable et pas trop bruyant si possible.
Pour le prix, je dirais un bon rapport qualité prix serait super.
J’aimerais bien un endroit où il y a un jardin. J’adore être dehors.
J’aimerais aussi avoir une idée de l’impression de respirer l’air à Katmandou.
Le tremblement de terre de 2015 n'a eu lieu qu'il y a 3 ans. Quels sont les sites fortement endommagés qui ne valent plus la peine d'être visités, actuellement, ou qui devraient être évités pour consacrer du temps aux autres sites ?
Je crois savoir (à confirmer) que les sites suivants sont très abimés et/ou en cours de restauration (échafaudages très visibles enlaidissant le site, piles de terre et de briques, etc) :
- Durbar Square de Patan (presque complètement détruit) - Khokana - Changu Narayan - ...
Des avis de ceux qui ont vu ces sites tout récemment (2017 - 2018) ?
Quels sont les autres sites en très mauvais état ?
Je crois savoir (à confirmer) que les sites suivants sont très abimés et/ou en cours de restauration (échafaudages très visibles enlaidissant le site, piles de terre et de briques, etc) :
- Durbar Square de Patan (presque complètement détruit) - Khokana - Changu Narayan - ...
Des avis de ceux qui ont vu ces sites tout récemment (2017 - 2018) ?
Quels sont les autres sites en très mauvais état ?
Bonjour à tous !
Après un premier voyage annulé en février 2015, nous avons décidé avec mon amie de profiter des vacances de Noël pour partir 9 jours au Népal entre Noël et le nouvel an. Nous savons que c'est très court pour un tel pays mais difficile d'avoir plus de temps ensemble à un autre moment.
Nous arrivons le lundi 27 décembre à 16h Katmandou et repartons le mercredi de la semaine suivante en fin de journée.
Nous ne connaissons personne qui s'est déjà rendu au Népal donc on voudrait vraiment optimiser le temps sur place !
Dans nos envies : - Katmandou et ses environs ? - un trek de quelques jours - pas trop trop éprouvant mais époustouflant :) Autour de Pokhara ? Il y a peut-être mieux ? Faut-il réserver en amont ou peut-être trouver sur place ? - le parc national de Chitwan ?
Avez-vous des conseils / itinéraire à nous donner ? A cette période de l'année, quel petit trek recommanderiez vous ?
Merci mille fois !
Après un premier voyage annulé en février 2015, nous avons décidé avec mon amie de profiter des vacances de Noël pour partir 9 jours au Népal entre Noël et le nouvel an. Nous savons que c'est très court pour un tel pays mais difficile d'avoir plus de temps ensemble à un autre moment.
Nous arrivons le lundi 27 décembre à 16h Katmandou et repartons le mercredi de la semaine suivante en fin de journée.
Nous ne connaissons personne qui s'est déjà rendu au Népal donc on voudrait vraiment optimiser le temps sur place !
Dans nos envies : - Katmandou et ses environs ? - un trek de quelques jours - pas trop trop éprouvant mais époustouflant :) Autour de Pokhara ? Il y a peut-être mieux ? Faut-il réserver en amont ou peut-être trouver sur place ? - le parc national de Chitwan ?
Avez-vous des conseils / itinéraire à nous donner ? A cette période de l'année, quel petit trek recommanderiez vous ?
Merci mille fois !
Bonjour,
Une guest house calme et propre à recommander sur Kathmandu ?
Celles du quartier Paknajol valent-ils le détour (les avis semblent au global plutôt positif) ?
D'autres suggestions ?
Merci
Bonjour. Quelqu'un peut-il me dire combien coûte un transport en bus local de Kathmandu à Tumlingtar ? J'envisage un trek dans le Kanchenjunga et désire une mise en place en bus local plutôt que par avion.
Ce trajet se fait en 2 jours, Kathmandu/Darhan et Dharan/Tumlingtar.
Merci
Bonjour
Je parts au Népal cet été
Je souhaite de Katmandou me rendre en Inde à Agra en bus et en train
Pouvez m'indiquer l'itinéraire le plus direct et les moyens de transports à utiliser
Je vous remercie
Corinne
Bonjour à toutes et à tous,
Je pars au Népal pour 3 semaines fin Septembre et consacre env 15-17 jours pour faire un trek. D'ailleurs j'en profite pour rappeller que je pars avec Citipati, membre du forum également et nous avons mis un post pour rechercher d'éventuels d'autres trekkeurs 🙂. 2 treks au choix pour le moment la décision n'est pas encore arrêtée. Peut être que des petits yeux interressés s'arreterons sur ces lignes.... 😉
Pour poursuivre le sujet de ce post, je souhaiterais consacrer les quelques jours qui me restent (entre 3 et 5 jours suivant le trek que je vais faire) à la visite de la vallée de Katmandou. Découvrir le côté culturel, spirituel m'intérresse tout autant que le trek, je ne voudrais pas partir en ayant fait "seulement" mon tour en montagne, vous voyez? J'ai lu plusieurs choses sur le sujet (guide routard, forums...) et bcp de lieux parraissent incontournables, hors cela va être compliqué en si peu de temps....
Pourriez-vous m'indiquer quelles visites, lieux sont à prioriser? Je prévois d'aller à la colline aux singes (1/2 journée il me semble) mais je suis après très indécise quand aux villages à aller voir... mieux Patan, Bodnath, Baktapur... ou les petits villages moins connus au sud de la vallée?....
Enjoy your trip! Biz Cora
Je pars au Népal pour 3 semaines fin Septembre et consacre env 15-17 jours pour faire un trek. D'ailleurs j'en profite pour rappeller que je pars avec Citipati, membre du forum également et nous avons mis un post pour rechercher d'éventuels d'autres trekkeurs 🙂. 2 treks au choix pour le moment la décision n'est pas encore arrêtée. Peut être que des petits yeux interressés s'arreterons sur ces lignes.... 😉
Pour poursuivre le sujet de ce post, je souhaiterais consacrer les quelques jours qui me restent (entre 3 et 5 jours suivant le trek que je vais faire) à la visite de la vallée de Katmandou. Découvrir le côté culturel, spirituel m'intérresse tout autant que le trek, je ne voudrais pas partir en ayant fait "seulement" mon tour en montagne, vous voyez? J'ai lu plusieurs choses sur le sujet (guide routard, forums...) et bcp de lieux parraissent incontournables, hors cela va être compliqué en si peu de temps....
Pourriez-vous m'indiquer quelles visites, lieux sont à prioriser? Je prévois d'aller à la colline aux singes (1/2 journée il me semble) mais je suis après très indécise quand aux villages à aller voir... mieux Patan, Bodnath, Baktapur... ou les petits villages moins connus au sud de la vallée?....
Enjoy your trip! Biz Cora
bonjour à tous , dans le cadre d'un tour du monde, mon amie et moi serons 11 jours au Népal.
voici le programme que nous avons grossièrement établi après des recherches sur le forum.
si vous avez des remarques, n'hésitez surtout pas, nous sommes preneurs pour toutes infos !
merci par avance pour votre aide
jour 1 à 4 : Katmandou (durbar square, monkey temple, pashupatinath, jardin des rêves et "se perdre" dans les rues en se baladant) jour 5 : journée et nuit à Bodnath (nous avons lu que c'était très touristique donc pourquoi passer une nuit et profiter de la soirée à Bodnath une fois les touristes partis...) jour 6 à 9 : journée et nuit à Bakthapur puis visite des villages aux alentours et revenir chaque soir dormir à Bakthapur. jour 10 et 11 : retour sur Katmandou faire quelques achats.
pouvons nous caler la visite de la ville de Patan dans ce séjour ? si oui, combien de nuit ? nous aurions aimé aller visiter le parc national de chitwan mais en seulement 11 jours, cela nous semblait juste, êtes vous de cet avis ?
merci !
si vous avez des remarques, n'hésitez surtout pas, nous sommes preneurs pour toutes infos !
merci par avance pour votre aide
jour 1 à 4 : Katmandou (durbar square, monkey temple, pashupatinath, jardin des rêves et "se perdre" dans les rues en se baladant) jour 5 : journée et nuit à Bodnath (nous avons lu que c'était très touristique donc pourquoi passer une nuit et profiter de la soirée à Bodnath une fois les touristes partis...) jour 6 à 9 : journée et nuit à Bakthapur puis visite des villages aux alentours et revenir chaque soir dormir à Bakthapur. jour 10 et 11 : retour sur Katmandou faire quelques achats.
pouvons nous caler la visite de la ville de Patan dans ce séjour ? si oui, combien de nuit ? nous aurions aimé aller visiter le parc national de chitwan mais en seulement 11 jours, cela nous semblait juste, êtes vous de cet avis ?
merci !
Bonjour,
est ce qu'il est vrai qu'il est un peu risqué pour des touristes de passer la frontière à Birganj.
on viendrai de bodhgaya et on se rendrai à sauraha.
merci
est ce qu'il est vrai qu'il est un peu risqué pour des touristes de passer la frontière à Birganj.
on viendrai de bodhgaya et on se rendrai à sauraha.
merci
Bonjour à vous
J'ai 5semaines à partir du 10 novembre prochain.Quel ratio de temps me suggérez-vous entre le Nepal et l'Inde du nord? J'aime les randonnées , mais pas nécessairement les longs treks. Merci





