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Croisière en Grèce avec Louis Cruise English translation pending
by Rodrigue1234 · 2006-07-21 · 9 replies
bojour jaimerais avoir des renseignements des gens qui on fait une croisiere avec louis cruise et quel bateau merci
Logement chez l'habitant dans les cyclades (Grèce) English translation pending
by Raphaeljou · 2006-07-17 · 4 replies
Bonjour tout le monde !

Nous partons le 20 aout dans les iles cyclades en amoureux ! 😊 Nous nous posons quelques petites questions pratiques !

Nous souhaiterions loger chez l'habitant : On nous a dit que l'on trouvait toutes les chambres chez l'habitant que nous voulions à la sortie du bateau donc que ce n'etait pas la peine de reserver à l'avance . Est-ce que c'est vrai ? et à cette periode( du 20 au 30 aout ) ?

Aussi, pour ceux qui sont déjà allés, avez vous quelques petites adresses sympa a me communiquer ?! 😉

Merci beaucoup d'avance !

Raphael
Chambre chez l'habitant en Grèce au mois d'août English translation pending
by Paulini · 2006-07-04 · 6 replies
Salut à tous, Il y a 15 ans de cela nous sommes partis en Grèce dans les îles sans réservations à l'aventure et nous nous sommes régalés. Aujourd'hui avec nos 2 enfants (10 et 12 ans) nous voulons y retourner, malheureusement nous avons que les 2 semaines du 8 au 20 aout. Je crains pour les réservations des chambres chez l'habitant (mode de logement très sympa et très abordable). Pensez vous que nous pourrons trouver facilement à l'arrivée à l'aéroport de Santorin (notre première escale) les "rent room" ou est ce qu'il faut absolument tout réserver depuis la France. Quelles sont les îles ou nous avons le plus de change de moins galérer comme le prédisent les guides touristiques. Nous aimerions tellement montrer à nos enfants ce dont nous leur avons parlé si souvent. Merci à tous pour vos réponses qui je l'espère ne me démoraliseront pas trop.
Location de camping-car en Turquie? English translation pending
by Chatounet1 · 2006-06-02 · 8 replies
bonjour à tous Hier je me suis inscrite entre autres pour pose une question que je ne retrouve pas aujourd'hui ! eh oui je débute excusez moi. Je recherche des adresses d'agences de location de campingcar en Turquie, car on voudrait y aller en avion et louer sur place, qui peut me conseiller ? merci d'avance .
Partir seule dans les Cyclades: formule séjour sans avion English translation pending
by Cleopatra · 2006-05-13 · 6 replies
En août je vais partir en Grèce, mon billet d'avion est payé (je suis lauréate d'une bourse pour participer à une mission Earthwatch ) et je veux absolument visiter les Cyclades...J'en rêve depuis trop longtemps! Le problème c'est que je n'ai trouvé personne pour m'accompagner et que je ne peux pas séjourner dans un genre d'hôtel-club, ni réserver un circuit car j'ai déjà mon billet d'avion payé et je trouve donc ridicule de prendre une formule "avion+séjour"....Impossible de trouver un séjour sans le vol...Le seul truc que j'ai trouvé c'est "Club aventure" qui propose une rando dans 3 îles sans l'avion....mais la rando en Grèce en plein mois d'août, franchement ça ne me tente pas!😕 Je préfèrerais quelque chose de + aquatique...et plus fun!!! Est-ce que quelqu'un connait quelque chose? Sinon, je me dis qu'au pire j'irai chez l'habitant...mais je dois m'organiser un minimum....Avez-vous des bon plans chez l'habitant? A Santorin, Mykonos, Parox, Naxos....Quelles sont les arnaques à éviter? Où aller pour sympathiser avec des gens? J'avoue que j'angoisse un peu....😕😕😕je ne suis jamais partie seule en vacances...mais j'ai trop envie de voir les Cyclades!Sinon, j'avais pensé à une croisière en voilier...même chose, je n'ai rien trouvé sans le vol...j'ai même appelé l'office du tourisme grec....niente! nada! Merci d'avance! Cléo😉
Ferry pour Venise puis pour la Grèce English translation pending
by Equanimity · 2006-05-04 · 7 replies
bonjour Je pense partir de Lille pour rejoindre Marseille de la prendre un bateau pour Venise puis Corfou, Turkie, Syrie, Liban, Jordanie et puis peut être l'Iran..bref .. Combien coûte le ferry de Marseille à Venise??? et le ferry pour arriver à Corfou?? ils partent tous les jours en juin?? connaissez vous une GH à Corfou?? beaucoup de questions ok j'arrete.. Merci d'avance Carl
Des photos, des photos! (suite) English translation pending
by Félantropik · 2006-05-04 · 332 replies
Bonjour tout le monde! Vous allez me 🏴‍☠️ mais pour finir cette série de chatôôô, je vous propose celui ci:

Bon courage et bonne chance à tous! 😉
Grèce: recherche conseils d'itineraire pour l'été English translation pending
by Sylviane91 · 2006-04-20 · 4 replies
Nous envisageons de partir fin juillet, debut aout pour un periple de 2 semaines environ en grece. Nous pensons partager ce sejour d'environ 1 semaine à 10 jours consacré à la visite du nord de la grece et 1 semaine en club de vacances dans la region de nauphie que nous avions decouverte à l'occasion d'un precedent sejour dans le peloponese. Nous recherchons donc les informations suivantes : 1- quels sites, villes preconiseriez vous a voir en priorité dans le nord ? nous pensons bien sur aux meteores, mais y a t'il d'autre sites interessants ? la region vaut elle reellement un sejour de 10 jours ? 2- pour la partie du sejour itinerant, que conseillez vous pour l'hebergement ? doit on reserver par avance ? plutot dans des hotels ou chez l'habitant ? existe t'il un site ou l'on puisse faire un choix et rerserver avant de partir ? (cela nous a tres bien reussi par exemple pour un recent sejour en afrique du sud avec le site "portifolio") 3- pour le sejour dans un village vacances, quels sont les organismes qui possedent des clubs dans la region de Nauplie ? a noter que nous recherchons un sejour sans le vol....

merci par avance de vos precieux renseignements 🙂 sylviane et christian
Visa nécessaire pour le passage Serbie-Monténégro? English translation pending
by Lindoudou · 2006-04-13 · 9 replies
j'ai lu dans un guide de voyage, le "Petit Pas Futé" 😏 qu'il faut un visa pour passer du Serbie au Montenegro par voie terrestre !? Coup de fil à l'Ambassade de Serbie-Montenegro à Paris: la réponse est que niet, pas du tout. bon je me méfie de tout ça et voudrais avoir des témoignages de personnes qui seraient passés ces derniers temps..

Linda
Sacoche à vélo en Crète English translation pending
by Fababjien · 2006-04-03 · 9 replies
bonjour, je suis arrive en crete de suisse a velo il y de ca quelques mois, j'y est fait une delicieuse rencontre, et nous allons repartir a deux pour l'inde a la fin mai. nous galerons pas mal pour trouver ici de bonnes sacoches etanches (tres agreable je m'en suis rendu compte). si quelqu'un a un plan de reve pour s'en faire envoyer pas cher...

merci d'avance.

fabian

ps. la crete, TERRRIBLE.
Viking Airlines pour Santorin English translation pending
by At79 · 2006-04-02 · 7 replies
J'envisage de partir à Santorin avec Heliades via Viking airlines.Pouvez-vous me dire votre avis sur cette compagnie suédoise principalement au niveau de la sécurité et des appareils qui semblent un peu vieux (ex-appareils de Swissair )? Merci de vos réponses.
Les must à voir en Europe English translation pending
by Emdie · 2006-03-21 · 43 replies
Salut à tous amis bourlingueurs,

Après avoir foulé la terre de bien des pays d'Europe, je constate que... ... et bien qu'en fait je ne connais rien de l'Europe et de ses curiosités naturelles et culturelles.

Donc avant de découvrir l'autre côté du globe (mais oui vous savez celui où ils ont la tête en bas 😄), je désirerai découvrir les beautés naturelles de part chez nous...

J'écris ce post dans l'espoir que chacun amène sa petite touche personnelle afin que l'on consititue une liste (non exhaustive évidemment).

Endroits célèbres, connus ou coins perdus; tous vos meilleurs plans seront les bienvenus 😉

Bon je commence donc par... ...par la région dans laquelle j'habite tiens: Proposée cette année même au patrimoine de l'Unesco, le Lavaux en Suisse (Canton de Vaud sur les rives du Lac Léman) est un splendide vignoble en terrasses surplombant le lac. Il offre une vue prenante sur les préalpes et l'embouchure du Rhône. Le meilleur moment pour y venir est évidemment mi-septembre - octobre au moment des vendanges. Des dizaines de vignerons font un incessant va et vient au volant de leurs camionnettes transportant les fameuses caisses jaunes contenant les précieuses grappes. Inutile de préciser que le va et vient des cueilleurs portant des kilos sur le dos et remontant la pente et tout aussi incessant... La plupart d'entre eux sont près à vous accueillir dans leur cave pour suivre les différentes étapes et vous inviter à une dégustation. Vraiment le Lavaux est une très belle région!!

A vous maintenant, faites moi découvrir vos coups de coeur.
Les îles Cyclades en Grèce English translation pending
by Foudjiou · 2006-03-05 · 10 replies
voulant partir 15 j dans les cyclades en juillet, j'aimerais avoir qqes infos pour la vie là bas(logement chez l'habitant, coût des bateaus...). Je souhaite prendre un vol sec, sac à dos, et me débrouiller là bas pour me loger etc etc... tous vos temoignages me seront précieux, merci d'avance
Conseils de destination près de Paris pour mi-avril English translation pending
by Kitty241 · 2006-01-26 · 6 replies
Bonjour,

Je cherche une destination à 3-4 h max de Paris pour le mois d'Avril, j'avais déjà pensé à Rome ou Seville mais avec les fêtes de Pâques je pense que les hôtels risquent d'être pleins. Avez-vous des idées sachant qu'il y a aussi un petit de presque 2 ans avec nous ?? Merci d'avance
Tour du monde à vélo English translation pending
by Jéjé58 · 2006-01-19 · 14 replies
salut tout le monde je vous expose mon projet que j'ai l'intention de réaliser dans environ 5 ans: un tour du monde a vélo avec environ en partant de france puis afrique du nord, jordanie, syrie, turquie, iran, pakistan ( si possible), chine ( pareil si possible sinon inde), japon puis avion jusqu'aux états unis (ouest), traversée des etats unis et ensuite descendre par la cote est jusqu'en argentine et après avion pour la russie et retour a la maison j'évite donc l'afrique et l'australie et j'aimerais savoir si un an c'est suffisant comme durée et est ce que 10000 euro serait suffisant (prix du vélo exclu mais frais de passeport et santé inclus)? voila déja une partie de mes questions😉 merci d'avance a tous ceux qui répondront😉
Îles en Grèce pas trop touristiques avec des enfants English translation pending
by Telu · 2006-01-17 · 12 replies
bonjour à tous !!

nous souhaitons partir cet été en grèce avec nos enfants. nous souhaitons visiter plusieurs îles sur deux voire trois semaines. ce serait sympa de nous parler d'îles sympas pas trops touristiques - d'hôtels, de bons plans - et sur la fin un hôtel sympa pour que les enfants puissent également bien en profiter.

merci de vos réponses et bons rêves de vacances ...
Grèce/Italie six semaines en septembre English translation pending
by Cocotte · 2006-01-04 · 3 replies
Bonjour

Je projette un voyage en Grèce en septembre/octobre prochains. Je dispose de six semaines... je me demandais si j'aurais le temps de faire moitié-moitié et que ce soit intéressant: trois semaines en Grèce et trois semaines en Italie... Qu'en pensez-vous?

Je pense qu'il y a des liaisons maritimes assez faciles entre les deux pays. Si c'était le cas, par quel pays devrais-je commencer? Avez-vous des suggestions d'itinéraires? Est-ce que l'Italie est + chère que la Grèce?

Que pensez-vous de septembre pour ces destinations? À cette époque de l'année, combien devrais-je planifier de sous par jour, environ, pour un hôtel raisonnablement confortable et la bouffe?

Merci à tous.
Votre avis sur Axis Airways English translation pending
by Lola77 · 2005-07-18 · 32 replies
Bonjour à tous,

Je pars en tunisie le 30 juillet (ibérostar à nabeul avec neckermann) avec la compagnie axis airways. Le gros pb c que g affreusement peur de prendre l'avion (je me reveille même toutes les nuits en ce moment en pensant que l'avion va rencontrer plein de difficultés et qu'en gros c mon premier et dernier voyage!!). J'aimerais donc que des gens qui ont déjà eu affaire à cette compagnie aérienne me disent leur avis sur les avions utilisés (boeing 737-400, 737-300 et BAE 146-200, si je me suis bien renseignée). En espérant que ce ne soit pas de vieux coucou qui risquent de prerdre une aile en plein vol. Merci d'avance pour vos réponses
Ile d'Eubée en Grèce English translation pending
by Pachamamac · 2005-07-01 · 3 replies
Salut

Quelqu'un connait il l'île d'eubée en Grèce ?

Si oui, pouvez vous me donner des infos dessus ?

Merci

Pachamamac
Lilou a Tokyo: dispo pour questions English translation pending
by Lilouboum · 2005-05-16 · 30 replies
Bonjour a tous!

alors j habite a Tokyo depuis le 2 janvier...donc si vous avez des questions (pas sur les bars et les endroits pour sortir, cela sort de ma competence), et bien n'hesitez pas !

mata ne!

Aurelie
quoi visiter en Grèce continentale? English translation pending
by Caro28 · 2005-04-18 · 1 reply
Bonjour,

Est ce quelqu'unpeut me suggerer quoi visiter en grèce continental ?

Je fais un séjour dans les iles mais j'aimerais bien visiter pendant 3-4 les environs d'athène.Est ce que olympie vaut la peine ? .C'est certain que je vais louer une voiture.

Merci a l'avance.😎
Les métros English translation pending
by Marseil · 2004-10-13 · 15 replies
Moi, j'aime bien un type de train un peu particulier, le métro.....🙂

Y'a-t-il ici d'autres amateurs de métros, lesquels aimez vous ? Les plus beaux ? Les plus agréables ? Les plus étendus ? Les plus drôles ? Les plus efficaces ? Les plus chics ? Les plus chers ? bon marchés ? Les sytèmes de tickets les plus intéressants ? Les plus plein d'avenir ? Vos anecdotes de métros un peu partout.... 😄 etc....

ET dans combien de villes du monde vous avez pris des métros?

Marseil.😏
Voyage interrail Italie-Grèce-Turquie English translation pending
by Nouchka · 2004-06-02 · 5 replies
Bonjour, je me présente: nouchka, je suis toute nouvelle sur ce site!si je me suis inscrite c'est pour savoir si quelqu'un pouvait me renseigner sur le voyage interail dans la zone italie, grece, turquie, slovénie.Car je compte partir cet été avec des copains mais on n'arrive pas vraiment à évaluer le budget à investit hors billet interail et surtout des endroits où dormir, où camper, et peut etre nous renseigner sur des endroits incontournables!!merci d'avance.
Itinéraire sur deux semaines en Italie? English translation pending
by Nanie · 2003-12-29 · 11 replies
hello,

début juillet je vais partir avec ma cousine 2semaines en italie. on part en voiture, tranquille, avec de bons sacs de couchage et une tente. on compte faire un peu tout le tour alors si vous avez de bons tuyaux à me donner, n'hésitez pas à m'envoyer un petit message! merci d'avance....
Ferries Grèce-Turquie? English translation pending
by Hans · 2003-09-24 · 6 replies
Bonjour je cherche des renseignenents sur les ferries Grece /Turquie

Merci a ceux qui connaissent de me passer les infos Hans
Is a suitcase possible for the Sepilok, Kinabatangan, Tioman, KL route?
by Nabb · 2026-07-02 · 6 replies
Hey everyone,

Silly question—backpack or hard-shell suitcase for the Sepilok, Kinabatangan, Tioman, KL trip? I’m struggling to fit all my son’s and my stuff into the 70L backpack... and I’m thinking a suitcase would be easier, but I’m not sure if it’ll work for getting around.

Thanks! 🙂
Discussion thread on the May 2026 theme: Staircases
by Ragamuffin · 2026-05-01 · 89 replies
If you’ve already posted your three photos in the contest thread Staircases: May 2026 Photo Contest Theme and a fourth one comes to mind, you can ease your staircase obsession here.

A few examples of staircases:



Some of the 6,600 steps on the staircase leading to the summit of Jade Emperor Peak at 1,545 meters.



Emergency staircase at the Orléans library (France).



Brussels street artist Créons incorporates the staircase into the dress design of his character.



The staircase is part of the roof of Villa Malaparte (Adalberto Libera) on the island of Capri (Italy).
Discussion on the April 2025 photo contest theme "Fish"
by Ragamuffin · 2025-03-31 · 79 replies
To chat about the side topics of the theme "Fish," this is the place!

Back to the contest theme: Fish: April 2025 Photo Contest Theme
Denied compensation for over 3-hour delay on American Airlines
by Benishoes · 2025-03-05 · 28 replies
Hi Voyage Forum members,

My wife and I took American Airlines flight no. 63 on Tuesday, February 18, 2025, at 9:30 AM, with a scheduled arrival in Miami at 1:30 PM local time.

After about half an hour of flight, a young passenger had a medical emergency. They were given care, and a flight attendant went to get an oxygen bottle. Then, an announcement over the loudspeakers informed passengers that the plane was diverting to London.

Once at London Heathrow (LHR), we were waiting to depart again. But a new announcement asked us to disembark because the plane wouldn’t be able to take off until the next day. (American responded to my follow-up, saying they’re required to limit their staff’s working hours to a certain number per day.)

A crowd of travelers gathered at the American Airlines counter, where they were told to follow instructions to get to a hotel. Meanwhile, I called the airline’s customer service to find a replacement flight that same day, since I couldn’t afford to leave the next day. If I had, I would’ve lost my hotel and car rental reservations due to late cancellation, which would’ve cost me a significant amount.

After discussing in English with customer service and the counter staff (who I handed my phone to), we managed to get two seats on British Airways flight BA 0209, which was leaving about 2 hours later.

That’s how, after a stressful wait unsure if we’d get our luggage back, and once we did, we hurried—heavily loaded—to reach the far-off terminal for our new boarding on foot and by train shuttle.

We finally took off for Miami and landed around 7:30 PM, which was 6 hours later than the originally scheduled arrival time of American Airlines flight 63.

On top of the stress, there were the costs of meals in the meantime, and I had to notify the hotel and car rental company about our delay.

As a result, I requested compensation for a flight delay of at least 3 hours (and I’ve involved my insurance’s legal protection to pursue this claim). American Airlines argued that exceptional circumstances prevented them from compensating me.

What do you think? Is my request unreasonable?
Eastern Crete in September 2024
by Jacou0109 · 2024-11-15 · 3 replies
Travel journal in Eastern Crete from September 8th to 29th, 2024

Our 21-day itinerary

Sunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.

Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!

Sunset over Mirabello Bay

Tuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.

Mirabello Bay seen from our terrace

Wednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.

Village of Kritsa

Thursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.



Spinalonga Island

The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.

Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.

Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.

Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.





Gorge of the Dead

The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.

Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.

Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!

Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.

Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.

Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.

View of the Ierapetra coast from Anatoli

Friday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.

Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!

Sunset from Anatoli

Sunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!

We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.

Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.

Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.

Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...

Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...

Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.



Agio Farango Chapel

A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.

Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.

Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.

Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.

Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €

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