Results for "Tanga+|+121+>+84"

je viens de lire un nouveau et super bouquin (trouvé à la fnac) qui s'appelle "Grands cols, les montagnes du Tour de France à vélo. De la légende à la pratique " chez Tana Éditions de Nicolas Moreau-Delacquis préfacé par eddy merckx de ce récit il ressort que les cols de joux plane et du puy de dome sont assez durs qu'en pensez vous ?

Bonjour, je recherche une bonne adresse de casa particular a Santiago de Cuba chez des gens fiables. Communiquez moi vos meilleures adresses svp se serait très très apprécié. Merci à l'avance.

bonjour 🙂

je prepare en ce moment avec mon ami un voyage a madagascar.nous partons 3 semaines entre fin septembre et debut octobre.

nous avons un vol sec paris/tana.nous aimerions prevoir un logement sur tana pour les 2 premiers jours de notre sejour. Si qq'un peut nous conseiller... merci d'avance😉

Bonjour,

J’étais à Mada il y a qqs jours et à chaque fois je me pose des questions sur les tarifs aériens, j’ai donc décidé de me renseigner au bureau d’Air Mad à Tana ; qqs tarifs pour vous aider à préparer vos voyages. Les tarifs sont liés au prix du baril surtout s’il augmente…éviter si cela est possible de payer avec la carte bancaire car vous êtes désavantagé par rapport aux changes, en province dès fois vous êtes obligé de payer en liquide (Fmg), pas de carte.

Vous pouvez acheter les billets à l’agence Air Mad, agence de voyage ou autres c’est toujours les mêmes tarifs et pas de commission.

Pour avoir le prix en Ariary : Diviser par 5

Tarifs vols domestiques aller simple d’Air Madagascar mai 2005 ; (aller/retour il faut multiplier par deux).

Tana-Diégo ; Tana-Sambava ; Tana-Nosy-Be ; Tana-Fort Dauphin ; Tana-Tuléar même tarifs : 1.371.500 Fmg TTC

Tana-St Marie ; Tuléar-Fort Dauphin ; : 971.500 Fmg TTC

Pour bénéficier des réductions sans forcément avoir le billet vol international d’Air Mad :

20% de remise à condition de réserver le billet A/R au moins 14 jours à l’avance mais en cas changement de date il y a réajustement au tarif normal !

40% de remise à condition de réserver le billet A/R au moins 14 jours à l’avance et rester sur place au maximum 3 jours ! (Ce n’est pas fait pour les touristes mais plutôt pour les hommes d’affaires ! Un peu d’effort Air Mad !)

« Le voyage c’est la nourriture de l’esprit »

Je ne comprends rien aux ariarys, c'est combien d'euros ou de francs ? il parait que dans les villages reculés, ce sont toujours des francs malgaches ?

Est-ce que quelqu'un aurait un nom de guide (on va faire TANA / Fiana / Manakara / Pengalanes et retour (on finira à Ste Marie mais là on séjourne) Pour la location de voiture qui connaît pour louer de Tana à Ansirabé ou Ambositra pour le jour de notre arrivée et est-il possible de louer une voiture de Manakara à Mananjary et Ambohimahasoa, à combien et chez qui ? comme on est 4, on va surement panacher transport en commun et voiture de location. merci

Bonjour les voyageurs

Depuis qques temps, nous parcourons avec grand plaisir les forums de discussions sur les périples à Madagascar. Nous y allons d'ailleurs à partir du 18 juin prochain et souhaiterions soumettre notre périple à vos avis, conseils et bons plans avisés.

L'idée générale du voyage est: Arrivée a Tana et départ immédiat si possible vers la N7 en direction de Manakara, avec passages pleins de curiosité mais pas trop longs par Antsirabe, Ambositra et Fianarantsoa et des pauses sur le trajet, il doit y avoir des lieux connus des guides à ne pas manquer je suppose. Visites, treks ou ballades dans le parc de Ranomafana Descente par train vers Manakara et qques jours sur places et des ballades autour (peut-être au sud plutôt), si vous avez des plans sympas à ne pas manquer, nous sommes preneur dans cette région

=> En gros 2 semaines pour ce périple Retour sur Tana et envol pour les derniers jours sur l'ile Sainte Marie (condition ultime de ma compagne de voyage, voir les baleines à bosses)

D'après tout ce que nous avons lu et vu notamment sur les forums, cela semble à peu près réalisable en temps de parcours et activités (on devra y retourner surement pour voir le reste 😛).

Il nous reste cependant qques questions autour de l'organisation: Trouver un taxi - guide sympa, fiable, sérieux (notamment pour venir nous chercher à l'aéroport a 5h du matin) et raisonnable au niveau des prix pour les 2 premières semaines (4*4 ou voiture "normale" selon les trajets prévus?) Des bons plans hébergements - restos dans les différentes étapes prévues (notamment régions de Manakara et Sainte Marie où nous passerons surement un peu plus de temps) Les musts que l'on a pas vu et que l'on risque de rater.

Nous remercions d'avance toutes les personnes pour leurs réponses.

La Piouteam (^^)

Bonjour,

Est oui j'ai pleins de questions sur Mada, mais je ne voudrais pas les balancer toutes d'un coups, histoire de ne pas assomer et d'être plus précis, merci.

DE Tana je compte descendre jusqu'à Ambositra par la N7, puis d'Ambositra je voudrai rejoindre Malaimbady par la RN35, mais je ne trouve aucune info en passant par cette itinéraire toutes passe par la RN34. Y'a t'il des taxi brousse entre ambositra et malaimbandy ? Faut il se débrouiller par ces propres moyens ? Le coin est il chouette ou faut il mieux abandonner ce choix et faire comme tout le monde, c'est à dire rejoindre Morondava en passant par Miandrivazo. Merci d'avance pour les infos!

bonjour

je vais decouvrir le mada au mois de juillet, j'aimerais savoir si y a des distributeurs de billet a Tananarive ou dans les autres regions de Mada.

si vous pouvez m'informer a ce sujet.

merci

Est-il possible d'entrer dans les tombeaux Ming de Shisan Ling et dans ceux de Qianling ?

Je suis allée en Chine il y a deux ans. J'espérais pouvoir visiter les tombeaux d'époque Tang à proximité de Xian. Rendue à Qian Ling (tombeau Qian), quelle ne fut pas ma surprise de me voir dire qu'il était impossible d'y pénétrer. Idem concernant les tombeaux Ming. Seules les structures en surface étaient visitables mais pas question d'accéder aux chambres funéraires. Grosse frustration car les caveaux Tang sont ornés de fresques magnifiques 🙁.

Dernièrement, en feuilletant un guide de la Chine (2001), j'ai vu qu'on y mentionnait que ces tombeaux étaient TOUS accessibles. ??? 🤪 😕 ???? Qu'en est-il alors ? Peut-on y entrer ? Ou pas ?

Est-ce que je me suis débrouillée comme un pied ?

Bonjour,

Je pars à Madagascar 4 semaines du 1er au 28 juillet 2005 pour traverser l'île en vélo. Je ne suis pas un fana de solitude donc si une ou plusieurs personnes veulent se joindre à moi, ce sera avec plaisir. Je n'ai pas d'itinéraires précis même si tana-tuléar est une classique (mais d'autres trajets sont possibles).

J'emporte la tente, donc l'hôtel c'est en dernier recours, je pédale bien mais je ne suis pas un furieux du kilométrage.

une dernière chose, au 23 janvier, j'ai trouvé des billets à 830€ (!!), mais je doute que ça dure longtemps...

A+

Chris

Bonjour,

Nous allons arriver tard à Antananarivo. Nous souhaitons réserver notre hôtel.

Lequel nous conseillez vous ?

Merci.

Hello

Apparament j'ouvre la dence même si d'autres Vfiste on effectivement souhaité la bonne année, j'ai l'impression d'être un des premier a avoir inoguré cette année 2005 sur le forum. Et oui après les îles Tonga, la Polynésie, l'Australie, et j'en passe c'est à la chine de rentrée dans cette nouvelle année officiel et quelques msemaines avant le novelle an chinois ...

Je vous souhète donc à tous une Bonne et Heureuse année de voyages, de décoiuvertes sur les traces du vent et des grains de sable qu'il trensporte ...

A qui la suite ?

Chapeaux bas à 2004 et Ni hao à 2005 !

Biz

Philo

Théatre : je suis à Buenos Aires pour le mois de janvier et février avec mon amie qui est comédienne. Nous souhaitons aller au théatre, qui peut nous conseiller des endroits où aller et des pièces à voir ?

Danse : comment faire pour prendre des cours de danses, tango ou autre ?

et une autre petite question, comment prendre quelques petits cours d'espagnol ?

merci

seb

Bonjour,

Je prévois un voyage à Mada pour l'été prochain. A priori ce que nous allons faire c'est descendre la tsiribinha, ensuite les Tsingy de Bemaraha (je ne suis plus sur du nom), ensuite longer la cote ouest vers Tulear, qq njours autour de Tulear (Ifaty ou autre), remontée via l'Isalo vers Tana (en passant aller à Ranomafana). Ensuite peut-etre aller à Diego en avion et rester une semaine là-haut. Nous hésitons encore pour cette derniere semaine (ou 10 jours).

Je voulais savoir si la cote sud-est (fort dauphin, farafangana, Manakara) vaut le coup. Qui a deja pris le fameux train depuis Fianar ? Est-ce qu'il vaut le coup ?

Meme question pour tamatave et le canal des pangalanes et l'ile ste marie ?

Bref qu'est-ce que vous conseilleriez pour la fin du trip.

Merci !

PS: si vous connaissez un bon chauffeur de 4X4 (ou une agence locale), on en cherche un.

Les québécois du forum ont probablement déjà entendu le duo Taima avec la chanteuse inuit Elisapee Isaac, originaire de Salluit au Nunavik. Engagé, intense, audacieux, fabuleux! Qu'en dites-vous? Est-ce que la musique de ce groupe a traversé l'Atlantique?

Et Tanya Tagak-Gillis, inuit du Nunavut? Style un peu plus "flyé". En entendez-vous parler dans le "Sud"? Elle a fait la première partie du spectacle de Bjork pour sa tournée en Europe et est sur son album Medulla.

Quelqu'un connaîtrait-il le coût approximatif de location d'un véhicule avec chauffeur pour une semaine ?

Je ne parle pas de véhicules proposés par les loueurs sinon d'un véhicule type taxi brousse par exemple.

Merci

Bonjour

nous partons dans 3 semaines pour Mada, et nous avons du mal à trouver une petite agence locale pour "faire les TSINGY" (circuit classique) : nous prendre à Tana Tana - Antsi - Miandrivazo pirogue (3 jours) grands et petits TSINGY (2 jours) nous déposer à Morondava (via allée des baobabs)

Nous avons des propositions très chères, ou alors pas chères mais qui ne semblent pas sérieuses. Et d'abord... combien ça coûte, raisonnablement ???

Alors si vous avez des tuyaux, des connaissances, des bonnes adresses.... merci beaucoup !!!

Bab

J'habite sur Bruxelles, et j'aimerais savoir si quelqu'un sait où je pourrais trouver un disqaire axé "latino", et plus precisément argentine (Los piojos, bersuit, mercedes sosa, los dividos, los fabulosos cadillacs, bajo fondo tango club, ...)

Groupes au passages que je conseille fortement aux amateurs entre autres de rock et de reggae!!

Merci

Hello !

Quelques questions pratiques sur le trajet par bateau entre Majunga et Nosy be !

Le trajet est il facile (pas trop remuant) ?

A quel prix ?

Et SURTOUT avez vous des infos récentes sur les jours et horaires de départ, dans un sens comme dans l'autre ?

Nous envisageons de faire Tana/Majunga/nosy be ou inversement et peut être passage par Diego si nous avons le temps ! Si vous avez déjà fait ou préparé ce voyage, tous vos conseils seront les bienvenus !

Merci et Veloma !

Salut a tous....😉

Le compte a rebour commence doucement a nous agresser avec son tic tac nous faisant réaliser chaque jour un peu plus que très bientot on s'abarque pour une aventure de deux ans a Madagascar...

La question est la suivant; quelqu'un connait-il un endroit sur Morondave ou encore sur Tana (la capital) un endroit beau bon pas cher pour faire un developpement photo de qualite... Pas les trucs normal attrape touriste mais un endroit correct pour un developpement semi-pro comme on peut trouver dans les arrieres cours de Delhi par exemple...

Merci de votre aide et bonne route a tous....

Bjr

quelqu'un a t il des tuyaux pour faire Réunion / Mada a moindre cout En avion avec qui car je trouve les prix de Air Madagascar assez dissuasifs! En bateau

merci

Bonjour à tous !

Nous partons fin juillet à Mada pour 1 mois avant de finir notre escapade dans les eaux chaudes de Mayotte ! Pour l'instant nous priviligéions 2 parcours pour notre découverte: De Tana à Manakara via Fianarantsoa en faisant le maximum d'étapes. Puis direction Morondava par Antsirabe et Miandrivazo

Est ce que ca vous parait faisable en 1 mois ou completement délirant ? Sachant évidemment que l'on a pas un budget extensible donc que l'on privilègera les taxi-brousse pour le transport.

Tous les conseils sur les transports et hébergement sont les bienvenus... Auriez vous une idée du budget qu'il faut prévoir pour 1 mois de séjour (billet d'avion mis à part).

Merci beaucoup ! Lilly

un bon hotel pas cher pour antananarivo ???

spécial petit budget

y a t il quelqu'un qui a pris le bateau à machunga direction mayotte ???

est ce un bon plan ???

je recherche des infos recentes sur madagascar et plus particulierement des infos sur la vie courante:transports, hotel, restau, etc....que ce sois sur les prix, les diponibilites, l'acceuil ect...........😉

hey everyone,

I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.

Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?

Thanks in advance, Jérôme

Hey everyone!

I’d like to explore the northeast of Madagascar, using bush taxis, boats, and my own two feet.

I already have an ideal itinerary in mind, but I’d love to know if it’s doable at a relaxed pace in one month. The goal, of course, is to avoid being constantly focused on time and days and to travel spontaneously.

I’m aware that the roads are rough and there are a lot of unexpected delays, which isn’t a problem in itself. I just struggle to estimate the *time* it takes to get between stops.

Potential itinerary:

Tana – Sainte Marie Island (4 days) – Maroantsetra (3 days) – Masoala Park (8-day trek?) – Antalaha – Marojejy Park (3 days) – Ambilobe – Nosy Be (5 days) – Tana

The days listed are just rough averages. Cities don’t interest me, and I don’t plan to visit Tana.

I’d really appreciate any info or tips from you all! 😊

Thanks in advance,

Romain

Hi there, we’re planning a trip to Nosy Be next summer and we’ve come across Neos Air, which offers direct flights from Rome and Milan. It looks really appealing, but how reliable are they, especially in terms of punctuality—particularly for evening departures?

Five years of an unintended break... The closure of VF, COVID... What a joy to rediscover the pleasure of sharing!

I’ve stayed true to my habits: the following account is a collection of practical tips rather than a travel journal...

Madagascar is as big as France and Belgium combined. In three weeks, choices have to be made! It was the Great Tsingy that inspired our trip. We decided to focus on the southwest and the RN7. We skipped the Deep South and the North. Oh well...

OUR ITINERARY IN 3 WEEKS:

Fri 6 June – Direct AF flight to Tana – Flight arrives at 10:30 PM – Tana Sat – Antsirabe Sun – Miandrivazo Mon – Drive to the Masiakampy pier – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Tue – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Wed – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue – Bekopaka Thu – Pirogue on the Manambolo River and Small Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Fri – Great Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Sat – Avenue of the Baobabs – Morondava Sun – Belo sur Mer Mon – Free day – Belo sur Mer Tue – Manja Wed – Andavadoaka Thu – Free day – Andavadoaka Fri – Salary Lagoon – Mangily Sat – Ranohira Sun – Isalo National Park - Ranohira Mon – Anja Reserve - Ambalavao - Fianarantsoa Tue – FCE train canceled – Visit to a Tanala village - Manakara Wed – Pirogue on the Pangalanes Canal – Ranomafana Thu – Ranomafana NP – Ranomafana Fri – Ambositra – Antsirabe Sat 28 June – AF flight to Paris – Flight departs at 11:55 PM

TRIP ORGANIZATION: I prepared my trip using the usual guides (LP and Rough Guide), the internet, and the Freytag & Berndt map (1:1,000,000). I’m old-school—I still love visualizing my route on a paper map, even though in Madagascar, it’s misleading because some National Roads are only national in name!...

The agency: Since we couldn’t deal directly with a driver-guide (we lacked reliable info to take the plunge), we went through an agency to organize the logistics of our trip. We didn’t feel like using bush taxis (not enough time) or driving a 4x4 ourselves (neither the skills nor the boldness). The French agency connected us with a local agency, to whom I sent my detailed itinerary by email. A few exchanges via email and WhatsApp calls allowed us to finalize everything quickly after some adjustments. As you’ve gathered... we multiplied the commissions, which inflated the budget. That said, in the end, we were thrilled with our decision and our choice. Our trip was booked by the end of 2024, and reservations were made immediately. No bad surprises: the bookings in the planned hotels were honored, often with one of the best rooms. On our last day in Tana, before departure, we were lucky enough to meet the director I’d been communicating with, who helped build and validate our circuit. A very warm debriefing.

The driver-guide: The agency assigned us Faly, 33, a driver-guide for over 10 years. He stayed with us from start to finish: he picked us up at the airport on arrival and dropped us off 23 days later. A very experienced driver (which is important here), an open and cultured guide, reliable, punctual, and a great companion. And a provider of good advice throughout the trip. We made the most of the long stretches on dirt roads or highways to listen to him talk about daily life, rituals, wildlife, and flora... No time wasted! With a great playlist in the background, we combined business with pleasure! Faly’s accommodation and meals were included (quite often, hotels offer free lodging and meals to driver-guides who bring clients), as was the fuel. That didn’t stop us from inviting Faly to share a beer or our evening meal sometimes. He didn’t always accept, wanting to let us "enjoy our romantic evenings," as he put it. Present without being intrusive! Faly is fully capable of organizing a tailor-made trip directly. I recommend him without any hesitation—we were delighted with his service. I’ll gladly share his contact details via PM to anyone who asks.

Local guides: It’s the national guide’s prerogative to choose the local guides (mandatory in the parks). Thanks to his experience, Faly always booked us amazing, competent, and interesting local guides.

Hotels: I told the agency I wanted charming, comfortable accommodations, without falling into flashy luxury. We loved all the hotels (except the Hôtel Kanto in Manja). The rooms, mostly bungalows, were always spacious and clean. Unfortunately, I can’t give the prices—I didn’t get the details. Breakfast is always included, usually fresh and hearty. Very often, a small bottle of water is provided in the room.

Tana Hôtel Les 3 Métis Power cuts are common (!) in Tana. Bring a headlamp.

Antsirabe Ecolodge – Les chambres du voyageur Maybe our favorite! A few bungalows, beautifully arranged in a splendid tropical garden. The dog Kodak welcomes us warmly.

Miandrivazo Hôtel Princesse Tsiribihina Magnificent view of the valley.

Bekopaka Hôtel Orchidée du Bemaraha 2 (yes, 2) beautiful pools, a large open common room.

Morondava Hôtel Baobab Café Brand new or at least, according to Faly, just renovated. Very comfortable but without much charm (international style).

Belo sur Mer Ecolodge du Menabe The bungalows, all made of wood, bamboo, and thatch, are set on the beach. Very spacious and fully equipped! Large open-air restaurant by the sea. No hot water from the tap—it’s available in plastic bottles heated by the sun in front of each bungalow. Actually, we never used it... Another very, very beautiful spot.

Manja Hôtel Kanto The only hotel on this leg of the journey, so no choice. The owner knows it and, as a result, doesn’t bother. It’s a real dive! Tiny, dark room, a sordid bathroom with only a trickle of water—we skipped the shower! Clean sheets, though. Obviously, no Wi-Fi. The only place where I didn’t leave a tip. We were well warned about the discomfort of this stop, both by the agency and Faly. We weren’t surprised, and it even became a running joke during the trip. On the other hand, we found a nice little market in town.

Andavadoaka Manga Lodge What bliss! Especially after the horrible Hôtel Kanto. A paradise-like spot, overlooking three beautiful deserted white-sand beaches. Meals are served on the terrace facing the sea. Stunning sunset. We loved spending a day lounging here! We were the only guests and were pampered.

Mangily (Ifaty) Mangily is the "suburb" of Ifaty. Hôtel Vovo Telo A large beachfront bungalow complex. More touristy but pleasant—we spent a lovely evening there with our feet in the sand.

Ranohira Le Relais de la Reine A splendid resort built by a Frenchman, at the foot of the rocks, very well integrated into the environment. Beautiful marked trail starting from the garden.

Fianarantsoa Villa Sylvestre Contrary to what its name suggests, it’s a hotel right in the city center. Quite decent, though.

Manakara Parthenay Club Pretty bungalows in a large garden by the sea, but swimming isn’t safe—the water is too dangerous and rough.

Ranomafana Hôtel Thermal Very spacious rooms.

Meals: Not all our meals were included. It’s really not expensive. 1 meat or fish dish: around 35,000 Ar 1 full menu (starter, main, dessert): around 70,000 Ar 1 large THB beer (65 cl): between 8,000 and 12,000 Ar 1 piña colada: 15,000 Ar 1 flavored rum: 6,000 Ar (sometimes free) 1 glass of baobab juice (!): 5,000 Ar

We always ate very well. Rice is everywhere, served in large quantities. Zebu meat is quite good if not overcooked. Personally, I prefer fish, and I feasted: grouper, captain, crab, small lobsters...

We happily discovered baobab juice (especially in Belo, on the west coast). And of course, flavored rums!

We bought 2 packs of 6 bottles of mineral water at Carrefour (!) (about 5,000 Ar per large bottle) at the start of our trip. That was enough, especially since we often got water in the bungalows.

We had a few picnics included in our trip. Instead of picking up the hotel’s lunchbox, Faly prepared delicious, fresh, and varied picnics for us: tuna pasta salad, fried rice with eggs, grilled vegetables, and avocado...

An exceptional address not to miss: Mad Zébu – Belo sur Tsiribihina A highly reputed restaurant, a favorite of LP and Rough Guide, and rightly so! Gourmet cuisine, refined and elegant. Barely more expensive than elsewhere, and it’s worth it. We stopped there on our way up to Bekopaka and the Tsingy NP. Fully booked! So Faly reserved for our return, three days later. We’re still thanking him! What a treat!

THE BUDGET: Ariary exchange rate: 5,000 Ar = 1 €

Pre-trip expenses: Direct Air France flights: 930 € per person round trip Cost of the circuit with the agency: 2,880 € per person

The visa: Issued on arrival, very quickly. 35 € per person for a stay under 30 days. Super simple. Super fast.

On-site expenses: As soon as we arrived at the airport (it was nearly midnight), Faly advised us to exchange our euros for all our needs. There are few opportunities on our route to find an ATM or an open bank with a good rate. To be more comfortable, he took us to a small office under military protection just outside the airport. I exchanged 1,200 € (I had asked the agency for advice on the amount to bring) at a rate of 4,750 Ar and became a millionaire. Faly recounted all the stacks. That covered all our expenses (meals, drinks, tips) without ever feeling deprived. Personal purchases were made at the end of the trip. Convenient—it served as an adjustment variable. We spent our last million (200 €) on marquetry and vanilla. Tip: We asked for 200,000 Ar in 5,000 Ar bills for tips. That wasn’t too much—I even ran short of small bills in the last two days.

Tips: Madagascar is a poor country where every service deserves a small reward. While not mandatory, it’s customary. But no one ever demanded or expected it openly. On the contrary, I sometimes had to remind a porter to give them my small bill. We never carried our luggage—porters were always present when the car arrived or waiting at our door to watch for our departure. I gave each of them 5,000 Ar. In restaurants, I rounded up to the nearest ten and left the change. Local guides also expect a tip: I gave around 20,000 Ar per day for the two of us. Finally, the national guide also expects a gratuity. I had read online to budget 5 € per day per person. I added more since we were so happy with his services. The tip was given at the end of the trip, in euros, outside the budget.

Total budget all included (excluding personal purchases): 8,690 € Clearly, Madagascar is a country where life isn’t expensive, but travel costs add up quickly due to the need to rent a 4x4 with a driver.

HIGHLIGHTS:

· The dirt roads Yes, I’m listing them among the highlights! We loved those long hours spent driving at 20 km/h on rocky, muddy, white, red, or gray sand tracks... surrounded by tropical vegetation, palm trees, pandanus, mango trees... The experiences were sometimes thrilling: crossing a river on a ferry (just planks of wood fixed on two motorized pirogues side by side) or crossing a river without a ferry, with just a kid running ahead of the 4x4 to show the way; soft sand where the 4x4 easily gets stuck... The tracks are quite narrow, and crossing paths with a bush taxi, a zebu cart, or a herd of goats is always epic. So many beautiful images, so many beautiful photos! Much more beautiful than on asphalt. So yes, we loved those long stretches on dirt roads. For us, it was clearly part of the journey. Faly was particularly careful, and the 4x4 was comfortable. No injuries, no fatigue, even after 7 or 8 hours on rough tracks. The national roads (including the famous RN7) are badly damaged by cyclones, huge trucks, and lack of maintenance. Potholes have turned into ostrich nests, and we didn’t drive much faster than on the dirt roads.

· The landscapes, villages, encounters... We crossed a variety of stunning landscapes: mountains with slopes covered in terraced crops, rice fields from apple green to emerald green, sugarcane fields, then tropical forests, baobab forests (they deserve a special paragraph below), traveler’s tree forests. And then coastlines with white sand dunes against a backdrop of blue hues!... Magical! We also passed through many villages with houses whose architecture varied by region. The Betsileo houses display beautiful decorative brick reliefs. On the west coast, the houses are more precarious, made of bamboo with palm-thatched roofs. In the Highlands region, we found solid houses with pastel plaster. Each region has its own landscape, crops, habitat, and clothing. Zebu carts are often the only means of transport in remote villages. We saw them very frequently. Again, the cart’s decoration depends on the region. And then, we met many villagers coming out of the bush and walking to the next market, carrying their crops on their heads or shoulders. More beautiful photos!

· The descent of the Tsiribihina River We boarded around 9 AM in a long pirogue with Gana, the local guide, and two pirogue men. So, five of us. The pirogue is long but narrow, about 65 cm wide. We sat one behind the other at the front on seats padded with what would become our mattresses during the bivouacs. We only took the bare essentials for two nights. A little goodbye to Faly, whom we’d see again in three days! Don’t forget us! The river is silty—meaning orange, opaque but clean. We glided along silently. Gana showed us the trees, birds, crocodiles (we saw five—apparently, we were lucky). The pirogue men rowed to get us as close as possible to these crocs sunbathing on the roots of big trees. Yeah, right!... as soon as we got too close, *splash*, they disappeared into the water. We marveled at the mini rice fields lining the river. Every tiny plot, no matter how small, is cultivated. Above them, banana fields. And on the water, a whole life of fishermen and villagers living with and from the river. Gana warned us we’d eat on the pirogue because the journey was long. So, I expected chips... But no—fried rice and zebu steak, cooked right in the pirogue!! Incredible! In the middle of the afternoon, we reached a small beach where we disembarked. Gana led us about a hundred meters to a sublime waterfall. We were alone there. We had time to swim. We’d brought our swimsuits and a towel (bought at the Carrefour in Antsirabe on Faly’s wise advice!). This swim in this paradise-like spot remains one of our best memories. We found our pirogue again and set off until our first bivouac. We’d sailed for 7 hours today. The tents were set up on a wide beach, without a single tree. A moment of solitude... Uh, where can we go to the bathroom?... Especially since it was a full moon, so we felt like we were in the spotlight. Anyway... we did as everyone else—walked away, dug a hole, and the others turned their backs. A hearty meal on the beach before a comfortable and silent night. The next day, same program, with slightly different landscapes. The gorges widened, the trees were different. But still many colorful birds. Again, we ate on the pirogue: grilled chicken and vegetables. 9 hours of sailing. A similar bivouac. This time, we got it. On the third day, we finished the descent with 5 hours of sailing. So, 7 hours, 9 hours, 5 hours... doing nothing. It might sound boring... but it wasn’t. Like the dirt roads, these were contemplative moments. It glides, it’s calm, relaxing, and there’s a lot of life on this river, animal and human. Contemplation. Suspended time. On arrival, we disembarked at a sort of joyful, bustling river port. Of course, Faly was already there to pick us up.

· The Tsingy de Bemaraha NP (Small and Great) I have vertigo. During my research, several agencies advised me against visiting the Great Tsingy. "Stick to the Small ones," they said. Grrr, no, not what I wanted—we’ve dreamed of this for years! The agency we chose also warned me but didn’t discourage me. So we started with the Small Tsingy, quite close to Bekopaka, guided by Alisha. This forest of sharp limestone rocks is impressive. No vertigo issues here. The day was completed with a short pirogue ride on the Manambolo River and a visit to two caves with pretty formations. The next day, Faly and Alisha drove us to the Great Tsingy (a good hour on a terrible track). Arriving at the park entrance, Alisha equipped us with harnesses, carabiners, and gave us some safety instructions. Faly was also equipped. Wait? He’s coming with us? I quickly understood he was there for me—if I got stuck, he could go back with me, and Philippe could continue with Alisha. A wise precaution that delighted and reassured me. In the end, it was unnecessary since the famous bridge crossing was fully secured by the harness and carabiners. 18 meters on planks, one by one, it didn’t sway too much—I walked looking straight ahead, not a glance down. I even managed to smile in the middle of the crossing—I have a photo to prove it! I was overjoyed! The circuit in the Great Tsingy is a loop, so we didn’t have to cross the bridge again. We climbed to viewpoints offering breathtaking panoramic views. It’s extraordinary, unique, incredible. All this to say that if you have vertigo, don’t hesitate! It’s doable! It’s completely safe and really worth pushing your limits a bit! For those who’ve done treetop adventure courses, it’s similar. Also, no need to be a great athlete—just a bit of agility to climb a few ladders and high steps. Don’t censor yourself! I even had a small regret—the loop was a bit short (about 2 hours). I would’ve liked to continue or even redo it, with less apprehension. Tip: Do the Small Tsingy before the Great ones, or not at all. And if you can only do one, do the Great ones without hesitation.

· Canoeing in the Belo mangrove The Belo sur Mer ecolodge lends small individual canoes for free to go to the mangrove. We left at high tide, paddled for about twenty minutes to reach a fairly sparse forest where we could easily venture in. Very shallow water, crystal clear—we could see the roots of all these trees, schools of tiny fish... It was quite surprising. Until then, I only knew impenetrable, tangled mangroves. Here, nothing like that—we walked through an aquatic forest. We loved this adventure so much we left a bit late. The tide had gone out, and we had to carry our canoes for the last few meters... Of course, the staff came to help (probably laughing silently!). The lodge owners gave all the necessary explanations and lent a waterproof bag for the phone (because yes, it’s worth taking photos!). A very useful precaution—the canoes are small, low in the water, and paddling quickly soaks you. Again, this isn’t just for Tony Estanguet! It didn’t cause us any problems, not even sore muscles the next day. A great experience. It’ll take about 2 hours.

· Isalo NP Big surprise when we saw this huge rocky massif appear on the RN7! A massif of colored sandstone, carved with crevasses giving it a ruined look. Le Relais de la Reine is a little gem cleverly nestled in the heart of these rocks. A small marked trail starts from the garden. We picked up the description at reception and set off. Without a guide, alone following the markers, it took us 2 hours to complete this magnificent little trail, giving us a first glimpse of the massif before the hike the next day. And we enjoyed being completely alone for this walk. It’s free, easy, and well-signposted. Don’t miss it. In the evening, Faly took us to the so-called Isalo Window site—a hole in a wall through which we could see the sunset. We met all the tourists in the area here. We weren’t blown away by the show... The next day, we left early to reach the start of the hike. We met Zozoly at the guides’ office in the small town of Ranohira. During this hike, we climbed through the rocks to a viewpoint offering stunning 360° views of the massif. Then we reached a site called the "natural pool," breathtakingly beautiful, especially since we were alone again. A sort of oasis, a cascading waterfall, palm trees and tree ferns, fine sand, all nestled at the bottom of a small canyon. Paradise-like. We resisted swimming, but it was really tempting. A long walk on the plateaus then led us to a well-equipped picnic site where a local team prepared grills. Concrete tables were tiered in a spacious, shady clearing where a whole family of ring-tailed lemurs frolicked. They knew the tourists’ habits and tried to snatch food. Playful and not very shy, they amused us with their antics! We had to resist not luring them with a piece of banana!! Thousands of photos!! After the meal, we set off again with Zozoly for another landscape. This time, we were by a small river at the bottom of a canyon with high walls covered in vegetation. The trail was narrow and slippery, on a ledge of the wall. We progressed carefully. No danger, though. We first reached the Blue Pool, which only turns blue in photos (surprise!), then the Black Pool fed by a shower of waterfalls. Two magnificent spots that showed us a completely different aspect of the massif.

· Anja Reserve This ficus forest is home to many groups of lemurs. Used to humans, whom they don’t fear, they move around us, ignoring us completely. It’s almost annoying... The best place on our trip to see lemurs.

· The FCE train To the great regret of Manakara’s inhabitants, the FCE train hasn’t reached here for over a year and a half. As a result, there are far fewer tourists—the train was part of the experience. We drove there and didn’t regret coming to this port on the east coast.

· Visit to a Tanala village This visit wasn’t part of our program—it was added by the agency to compensate for the train not running. Which was the case. Not big fans of this kind of visit, where we feel like we’re at a zoo, voyeuristic, lacking authenticity, we followed the local guide with some skepticism and exchanged dubious looks. And yet... the guide’s explanations about village life and the warm, smiling welcome from the villagers charmed us and dispelled all our concerns. We learned a lot, met smiling families, and were able to enter these beautiful bamboo houses. A very pleasant surprise, rich in lessons.

· The Pangalanes Canal Arriving in Manakara, we crossed a bridge overlooking the Pangalanes Canal. A cry of surprise: the water is turquoise! We took a short pirogue ride with a team of three pirogue men and Joël, a local guide who explained the drama caused by the train’s halt. We stopped in a fishing village where Joël bought fish for the barbecue. We ended up on a beach where the team prepared the meal while we went to watch the fishermen return on the nearby beach. We admired the fishermen’s dexterity in untangling their nets, sorting their fish, cleaning their gear. On our return, we found a small table set up on the beach, in the shade of palm trees and casuarinas. Lobsters, captain fish, grilled vegetables, sautéed potatoes. A real feast (included in the trip cost).

· Ranomafana NP A 4-5 hour hike (some climbing) in a dense secondary forest to look for lemurs. As usual, we were accompanied by a local guide who, while waiting to find our furry friends, gave us lots of info on the vegetation, birds, and Tanala ethnic rituals. In the forest, we met 4 or 5 trackers, armed with radios to alert guides of their findings. In the end, we saw several lemurs of different types. Quite far, quite high... A nice complement to our lemur encounters in Isalo. Here, it rains 200 days a year. We started the hike in thick fog, but the forest’s density protected us from the humidity. Be careful—it can be a bit frustrating to see the lemurs so far away, so high. Nothing like the Anja Reserve or Isalo NP. Here, what’s fun is the hunt.

· The baobabs We were captivated by these kings of the forest, noble, imposing, majestic. We spotted them from very far away, towering over the rest of the vegetation. Alone, in small groups, or in forests, our trip allowed us to see hundreds of them! Mainly on the west coast. All different—bald, hairy, shaggy, short and stout, tall and thin, like Laurel and Hardy. Philippe took to naming them. Respectfully!

OUR FAVORITES: · The variety of landscapes. · The Tsingy NP.

OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS: · The Avenue of the Baobabs, very overrated and the only place where we saw crowds. We saw many other "forests" of baobabs that were much more impressive. · It’s hard to approach the population calmly as swarms of children run up as soon as we arrive, asking for sweets. Without any aggression, their smiles and laughter quickly made us forget this small inconvenience. We never gave out candy, clothes, or money. We left pens at a school and clothes with Faly.

IF WE WERE TO DO IT AGAIN: · Same period, same duration, same pace, same itinerary, but if we were to do it again today, I’d go through Faly directly! · Maybe we should’ve stayed in Ambalavao instead of Fianarantsoa. · Plan a longer loop in the Great Tsingy—it felt a bit too short.

MISCELLANEOUS: The welcome: ‘Samala Vazaha,’ there are many, many kids, sometimes overwhelming, never aggressive. We were impressed by the villagers’ smiles and good humor, towards us or even among themselves—laughter was everywhere. Safety: No problems. Out of (excessive?) caution, we spread all our money across several bags that we padlocked whenever we left the hotel. Bribes: We were stopped several times on the road by police or gendarmes. They checked our papers, sometimes our passports. Faly was perfectly in order. No discussion, no bribes, a cordial greeting from the officers. However, several times we found ourselves at small "tolls" on the tracks for villagers who had leveled the road or filled a hole, or for the young guy who ran through the river to show the way... Faly complied without discussion: every service deserves a small bill. Language: French is still widely spoken. Credit card: Unused. Cash: You need it! The climate at this time: Ideal—blue skies, sunshine, and mild temperatures (20-25°C) throughout our trip. Temperatures started to drop by our departure—winter was setting in. Clothing: T-shirt or polo and a vest sometimes in the evening, sandals on our feet, hiking shoes for all the hikes. Tip: We left a bag in the car (completely safe) with things we didn’t need daily and dirty laundry. The two bags to take out at each stop were much lighter. Before leaving, we left several polos and T-shirts with Faly, which, once washed, will make a few people happy. Tourist crowds at this time: Low—we were sometimes the only guests at the hotel. Faly explained that at the Isalo picnic site, in high season, you have to queue for a table, whereas we had our pick. Photos: Lots! Too many! That’s the problem with digital—we take so many! Health issues: Nothing serious, just the usual mild traveler’s diarrhea. Mosquitoes: They’re voracious. We took anti-malaria treatment. I’m still not sure if it was the right thing to do... I’m always very skeptical about such precautions. Internet: Free Wi-Fi at the lodges’ reception (except at Hôtel Kanto!), sometimes (rarely) in the bungalows. Phone: We didn’t try to get a local SIM card—the evening Wi-Fi was enough for us to make calls and send messages via WhatsApp. Make sure to turn off mobile data and switch to airplane mode (I activated it a bit late—received calls, spam ones at that, were charged...). Electricity: French plugs. Personal purchases: Beautiful wooden objects (sculptures and marquetry) or zebu horn items in Ambositra. 1 kg of vanilla (400,000 Ar – 80 € per kg) in Tana.

IN CONCLUSION: A trip of contemplation. A pause for admiration, as our local guide in Isalo NP said. Nothing else to do but walk, look, and enjoy. Here, there are no old stones, no museums—it’s a trip where nature reigns supreme. And what nature!