A Brief A to Z of Peru

Translated into English.

Original post
MA
Foreword This text has been proofread many times. Sorry if some points in this A to Z have already been covered on this forum. Text and drawings by the author.

Peru is still a very vast country, with so much to see, and obviously this text can't list all the attractions of the country.

*Abiseo (River) A national park that's very hard to access and doesn’t seem open to visitors. Includes the Gran Pajaten site (see below). Personally, it really sparks my imagination (not visited personally)

*Aguas Calientes the town next to Machu Picchu, more precisely below the archaeological site. As far as I know, you can only get there by train. Reminds me of the market where stalls line both sides of the tracks near Bangkok. I love it

*Altiplano: somewhere the "heart" of the Andes. I was able to trek across it on foot, starting from Caracollo in Bolivia, and of course, it’s vast plains to explore. This is where people live in a very rural way. Andean populations are quite austere compared to those in the lowlands or on the coast. You really have to appreciate the harshness of life to live there. Life is anything but superficial. I set a compass heading and found myself walking west toward the expanse of water near a place called La Joya. For pitching the tent, the nights were still chilly

*Canyon del Colca One of the deepest canyons in the world. Personally, I hiked down and back up on foot. The toughest stretch I’ve ever covered in my life.

*Ceviche More or less the national dish. A marinade of fish, shellfish, and lime. But you can find it in some restaurants in Europe, France, and certainly in Belgium or Switzerland. In the small restaurants of Pisco, you can eat excellent ceviche

*Cerro Sechín: Mostly bas-reliefs. A site little known to travelers in the Casma province. The first vestiges of a pre-Inca civilization with iconography similar to that of Chavín (not visited personally)

*Chan Chan A large city of the Chimú civilization and relatively vast to visit. You can see adobe walls with bas-reliefs. Visit from Trujillo, take a colectivo. Plan for the whole day

*Charango: a small guitar widely used in Andean music

*Chauchilla A necropolis near Nazca where you can see mummies exposed on the ground. YouTubers can do paranormal experiments there. And for anyone wondering about the fate of the soul and body after death, here’s the answer: the body remains after death. You can imagine your own flesh and body exposed to the winds of the Pampa and before eternity... (not visited personally)



*Chavín de Huántar (Lanzón) The site’s appeal lies in its mountainous surroundings, the Lanzón stela, and the sculpted heads on the façades. What few people know is that the Chavín civilization began its expansion centuries before the Incas. Unfortunately, you can’t get too close to see the Lanzón—the day I was there, it was protected by grilles. To get there: minibus from Huaraz or trek from Olleros. Then cross a high pass (over 5,000m). If you do it solo on foot, be careful—the path isn’t obvious from Olleros

*Chullpa: funerary tower, notably at Sillustani in the Lake Titicaca region

*Chimú: pre-Inca civilization whose center was Chan Chan.

*Chola/Cholitas (Bolivia): typical clothing style of women from the Andean plateaus



*Chompa: pronounce it *Chompaaa!* A common term for a wool sweater with vicuña patterns, often knitted from alpaca wool. If you dress like this, it’s a bit kitschy around the edges

*Cuy That one isn’t a guinea pig like in Guyana but an actual guinea pig. During a trip to Peru, I was hiking near a village north of Quillabamba (the terminus of the train line that passes through Aguas Calientes), and I was invited to stay in a house. The family raised a few of these pets. Apparently, the locals eat them. Since I’m not much of a meat-eater, it doesn’t really tempt me. How about you?

*Pacific Coast or how to talk about a place you haven’t visited? Except for the coast near Pisco and San Andrés, I haven’t visited any coastal cities. But that doesn’t mean these places lack interest or poetry. For fans of clichéd images, pelicans, seabirds, and fishing boats appear by the sea.

*Gran Pajaten: also closed to the public. Features anthropomorphic bas-reliefs. (not visited personally)

*Huaca. Visit the Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna, especially near Trujillo. However, you can skip them—Chan Chan is still more interesting. Don’t forget to spend time visiting Chan Chan

*Huacachina A small oasis in the desert near Ica. Yes, we’re talking about an oasis because for those who’ve never traveled to Peru, the coastal strip along the Pacific is almost entirely desert, from north to south. Peru is territorially made up of three different regions: the desert coast, the Altiplano stretching north to south with mountain ranges (the Cordilleras), and the Amazon basin to the east. (not visited personally)

*Inca Kola It’s neither Coca-Cola nor Pepsi but a unique cola with a slightly orange color. Tastes like bubble gum

*Intiwatana: a carved rock shaped like a parallelepiped. Is it a sundial?

*Ballestas Islands: a highlight in Peru, though very touristy. You can only get there by boat from the port of San Andrés, a few kilometers from Pisco. It’s a surreal place to me—actually islets with cavities where sea lions and fur seals live. Since it’s a protected area, you’re not allowed to disembark. Guano is harvested there, which can be used as fertilizer.

*Kuelap: a fortress built by the Chachapoyas people. Rarely visited by travelers. (not visited personally)

*Larco Museum: an iconic museum in Lima with a large collection of pieces from archaeological and pre-Columbian sites. From what I remember, it has many pieces from the Moche civilization. As for the Moche statuettes, the prudish might look away. Probably a veneration of the god Priapus without knowing it.

*Nazca Lines Discovered by German archaeologist Maria Reiche, they stretch for kilometers. The designs in the desert around Nazca depict animals and cabalistic signs. The question I ask myself is why the creators of these lines represented a monkey and a hummingbird—species endemic to the tropical forest, not the desert plains around Nazca.

*Machu Picchu: means "old mountain" in Quechua. There’s also Wayna Picchu. The ruins of the site emerge from a sort of small plateau above Aguas Calientes. When the mist rises above the site and the bend of the Urubamba River, it’s truly magical... Also the starting point of the Inca Trail.



*Coca tea A decoction/infusion of the coca plant, meant to ease altitude sickness or *soroche*

*Chullo A rough translation would be a Peruvian wool hat.

*Moche: a civilization established in the Moche Valley, hence the term *Mochica*. What characterizes this civilization are the distinctive clay pieces representing faces and erotic statuettes

*Papa a la Huancaína A local potato dish

*Pisac: a typical market near Cusco

*Pisco Sour: perhaps the Peruvian equivalent of the *caipirinha* you drink in Brazil.

*Puya Raimondii A Bromeliaceae that still looks like a cactus, endemic to the Altiplano

*Quechua The language spoken by the indigenous people of the high plateaus (as well as Aymara in Bolivia)

*Quipu A knotted string used for counting. Widely used by the Inca administration.

*Sacsayhuamán (Q’enqo, Inca Bath) From Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, take the streets that climb above the city. Sacsayhuamán is called a fortress and is made up of large stone blocks. You wonder how the Incas could cut such huge blocks to assemble them—just like some streets in Cusco. The Q’enqo block is enigmatic; no one really knows what it represents.

*Savia Andina An Andean folk group.

*Tambo (=> Ollantaytambo) The Inca emperor (Atahualpa, Manco Capac) had the mission of controlling a vast empire. An empire that was still very extensive. Hence the importance of these *tambos* or relay stations. Napoleon created the civil code; the Incas invented the *tambos* and *quipus*.

*Tawantinsuyu: the Inca Empire

*Tinku: a warrior dance practiced mainly in Bolivia

*Golden Tumi: a sacrificial weapon. Often featured in Peru travel guides. See illustration



*Terra X: a documentary series from the German TV channel that aired on Arte. Some episodes focused on pre-Inca and Inca Peru. I must have some old recording tapes. In memory of Gottfried Kirchner as a source of inspiration.

*Uros: I checked—it actually refers to the people who live on these floating islands. Even if it’s touristy, it’s a must-visit because it’s incredible how people can live on islets made from nothing. Take the boat from Puno

*Vicuña, llama, guanaco: camelids characteristic of the Altiplano



*Wayna Picchu The young Picchu mountain. In the first minutes of *Aguirre, the Wrath of God*, you see Klaus Kinski—well, Aguirre—making his way along the Inca Trail. Werner Herzog must have broken his back filming those sequences.

*Zampoña: pan flute
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hello,

Great job and congratulations on the drawings—you're quite the artist! Why not feature them in close-up (attach them to the text)? It’s a nice change from the usual travel journal photos.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
hi Sinforosa, thanks for the message—it made my day! But I’m not sure how to weave them into the text.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
You need to click on your message, go to a new line, and click "add to text" below the photo. Then, you go below the photo you just inserted into the text and click "add to text" for the second photo, and so on. Not sure if that’s clear?
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
okay, thanks for the reply [:)] I hadn’t seen that option—it’s fixed now
KA Kate Globetrotter ·
Really lovely drawings, Mathews, well done! We already knew about the uniqueness of your writing, and today we’re discovering your talent as an illustrator. These sketches fit perfectly with the style of your text, like a Word Atlas. And it’s even better than photos ;)
Mes photos sur Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/153304262@N05/albums "Le Temps nous égare. Le Temps nous étreint. Le Temps nous est gare. Le Temps nous est train".
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi there,

I love Manu Chao, but I didn’t know the translation!

I also hadn’t heard of Terra X—I looked it up on YouTube, but it’s only in German.

I hadn’t been to the Nazca area either, and I’d never heard of Chauchilla and its mummies.

I think they’ve made some important archaeological discoveries recently, but I’m not sure where in the country.

And guinea pig meat doesn’t tempt me either....
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
VO Voyajou Globetrotter ·
It's Peru! Please... draw me a ceviche. [;)]
HO Holigirl Veteran ·
Mathews, you're an artist. Thanks for sharing this with us.
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Hi Kate, thanks for the message—it’s really encouraging! [:)] As for the term "atlas of words," I hadn’t thought of that.
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
I wasn’t familiar with Terra X either. I looked it up on YouTube, but it’s only in German.

good evening yeah, it’s German content. But it was on Arte in French a while back.
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
It's Peru! Please... draw me a ceviche. [;)]

hi there, if I get a moment, sure, I’ll draw a ceviche.
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
hi Holigirl, with pleasure. It's a bit of work to create such paintings.
JL Jlma Regular ·
good evening and kudos on your great work!

.... *Aguas Calientes, the town adjacent to Machu Picchu, more precisely below the archaeological site. As far as I know, you can only get there by train ......

there’s also a pedestrian access from Hidroelectrica by following the railway tracks and the Urubamba River. See: this recent discussion
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Thanks for the kind words.
BL Bluequark Veteran ·
Really nice this A-to-Z guide and the drawings.
Bluequark

Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
JL Jlma Regular ·
there’s also a pedestrian access from Hidroelectrica by following the railway track...

see the image below found at this address
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
thanks Bluequark [:)]
BA Babouandco ·
Hi Matthews,

I really love your illustrated A-Z guide—your paintings are so well done and add such an original, poetic touch to your story. Bravo, you’ve got real talent!

It reminds me of old-school travel journals, handwritten and filled with drawings, paintings, poems, and doodles. They’ve always sparked my imagination more than photos ever could.

It must take a ton of work, but it’s absolutely fantastic!

Thanks for sharing.
Babou
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Thanks so much, Babou—your message really made my day! Yes, it does take a bit of time to create an illustration; it usually takes about two hours of work. I’m planning to make several more and self-publish a book on Bookelis! [:)]
JE JeanVisage2P ·
Love it! The illustrations are awesome!

It reminds me of the book "Diccionario de Peruanismos" (Dictionary of... Peruanisms in French) by Juan de Arona.
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Hi Jean, thanks for the kind words. But I’m not familiar with this author. I did a little searching online—is this an illustrated dictionary?
JE JeanVisage2P ·
This is a book that’s now in the public domain and isn’t illustrated. You can check out a free version here: https://archive.org/details/diccionariodepe00arongoog
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi there,

A free version is available here: archive.org/...onariodepe00arongoog

And it can be downloaded as a PDF in 2 seconds—604 pages, 18.9 MB.
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hey traveler, I went and read your travel journals. What started as a chore for me—since I don’t usually enjoy reading them—quickly turned into a pleasure because I found them really interesting and not boring for two reasons: - their very adventurous side, just how I like it, something that’s hard to find in forums these days, - the "chapters" aren’t interrupted by dozens of random comments, making the journal long and tedious to read. In short, they stand out from the rest.

Here, your amazing paintings add even more to it.
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Hi Songsam, thanks for your nice message! [:)]
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Hi Mathews, Great job on this original travel journal. I love your alphabet book idea... and you manage to be so concise. The illustrations really take you on a journey.

If you're interested, I'm currently posting a travel journal about Japan on VoyageForum, with my drawings—it's called "Draw Me Your Japan." It's not at all the same style, and compared to you, I'm *super* chatty. Let me know what you think if you check it out!
Carnet Japon https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11473194;#11473194 Carnet Tanzanie https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10703331;#10703331 Carnet Ouest Canada https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9178900;#9178900 Carnet Birmanie https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=8121234;#8121234
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
hi Fabienne, it's done.
VO Voyajou Globetrotter ·
In the meantime, whipped up in Brittany while thinking of this discussion—the first ceviche of the year!

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