Drakensberg in August: is it the right time?

Hello,

The closer we get to spring, the less likely snow becomes.

In August, you should be fine. That said, it won’t be warm either.

Well, normally. I’ve had nearly 40°C in August in Kruger before, which is definitely not the usual range! !

Thanks for your reply, that reassures me a bit! What spots would you recommend in the Drakensberg, given we have three nights and thus two full days there before heading back to Johannesburg? Thanks in advance for your tips! Malijp

The Drakensberg hiking pro is Michel85200. 😉

If you're heading back to Joburg afterward, the central-north/northern part might be more suitable: Didima, Cathedral Peak, Royal Natal, Golden Gate...

Watch out for Golden Gate—the mountain lodge is at high altitude. The view is absolutely stunning, but it’s probably pretty cold there at this time of year.

At the end of this travel journal (steps 17 and beyond), you’ll find some ideas for Golden Gate, and in this one, more about Royal Natal and Didima (steps 16 and beyond).

Thanks Attila for your reply, I’ll check out your travel journal! Have a good evening. Malijp

Hi there, Ms. Atila knows more than I do about the Drakensberg, but she’s modest. The weather: Usually, it’s cold but sunny. Cold at night but mild during the day. Watch out for sunburn!!!! That said, this year there was a lot of snow in September, so who knows! Personally, I’d aim for the northern Drakensberg. As mentioned, Golden Gate—the accommodation at the top is just stunning, but it can get *really* freeeezing.

And for hikes, the Royal Natal National Park (RNNP) is more rewarding. So, yeah… I vote RNNP, Upper Camp! I’ve got notes in my travel journals: An old one about GG, And the latest about RNNP. Ndlelanhle !

Hi there, Playful as I am, I’d say the hiking pro Especially in SA Is Djalma !

Thanks Attila for link #1! I finally found the link to the second travel journal too after digging through all the travel journals you’ve written (took me a while 😛). I’m going to look into doing a mix of Didima and Royal Natal NP like you did! Golden Gate looks great, but it’d add too many extra kilometers to my already packed route! At Royal Natal, did you stay at Thendele Upper Camp? Everyone’s recommending it, but I’m worried about snow blocking the way back to the airport since we’re ending our trip there... Have a great evening, and thanks for the tips and travel journals! Malijp

Thanks Michel for the tips, As I mentioned in my reply to Atila, staying at Thendele Upper Camp in Royal Natal makes me worry I might get stuck there if it snows. So I’m looking (maybe wrongly—let me know!) at places a bit farther away (Hlalanathi Berg Resort, Tower of Pizza, or even Border Post BB).

I’ve already read your travel journals with great pleasure, just like Atila’s *South Africa: Return to My Roots* (and since there are so many others, I’ll go gather some extra info from them!)

Thanks for sharing your experiences and travel stories! Malijp

It won’t make much of a difference. The upper camp isn’t at a summit— it’s just a tad higher.

Ok. Got it. Thanks Michel!

Did you stay at Thendele upper camp at Royal Natal?

Yes. As Michel mentioned, it’s pretty much at the same altitude as the lower camp.

Nothing that’ll make a big difference. 😉

You could maybe sleep closer to the highway just the last night and stay at Thendele the night before.

I'm actually torn between staying at Thendele Camp or outside the park at Hlalanati Berg Resort or even further away. But your suggestion makes total sense! Thanks!! Malijp

Hi Marie,

I agree with the previous opinions and the choice of Royal Natal (closer to JNB, slightly lower average altitude). The chance of being stuck in the region due to heavy snowfall is very low. What time does your flight depart? However, there are two weather-related risks to keep an eye on. The first is the presence of Attila, aka La Niña 😉, and the second is when Michel starts singing a Zulu song in the Amphitheatre 😉. P.S. The days will be short, so it’s worth booking comfortable accommodation.

Personally, I don’t hesitate. The view from Thendele…

Hi Voyajou! What do you think of when you talk about comfortable accommodation... Do you have an address in Royal Natal? We take off at 11:45 PM! We’ll have plenty of time! 😏 But I want to get to the airport before nightfall (following the advice I’ve read everywhere about safety concerns) and stop somewhere to wash the car (where can you do that, by the way?). So, in my mind (which might not be the best plan—I’m open to your tips), I’d like to be in Johannesburg by early afternoon, mid-afternoon at the latest. For the weather to watch: Are Atila and Michel planning to travel around South Africa this August? 😉 A Zulu song at the foot of the Amphitheatre must be worth the detour! Malijp

Hi there, It’s certain— If I sing in Zulu or another language, You’ll need to plan ahead: Rain, Snow, Fog. See you! !

No, no trip to South Africa this summer! 😉

If you're heading there at this time of year, You’ve got plenty of time! Voyajou probably has some addresses, but Thendele is a really beautiful chalet. Waking up to the amphitheater with or without singing, Enjoying the sunset With or without a song… It’s really lovely

Thendele then... But do they have good fireplaces? Did you try it in August, Michel? We're from Réunion, so the really cold weather isn't something we're used to! At 8°C in the evening in Mafate, I'm wrapped up like the Michelin Man! Another question: my partner isn't too keen (and to be honest, neither am I) on hiking on our own in Africa (snakes and other unfriendly critters). He's okay with it, but only with a guide. So, are there guides in the Drakensberg? I'd like to hike in Blyde Canyon (Leopard Trail or something else), with a guide or without—what do you think? Malijp

Hi there, In August snakes are rare 🐍 No other critters 🐜 Yeah, there should be a fireplace—I’m not totally sure. Bring some firewood.

For the rest, you’d want to check Thendele’s site on kznwildlife. The big principle is still going solo without a guide.

Noted for solo without a guide. Just need to get my companion to read your advice now. I love the phrase "In August, snakes are rare." Well, with all that, I guess I just have to go for it... and buy some fleeces, jackets, and beanies😛 We can always reuse them in Mafate next July!!! Malijp

I took a look at the site Sure enough, you can see a chimney There are heated blankets No guided hikes apparently But book the little guided walk to see the San paintings And ask the guide if he remembers a group of French people with one who spoke Zulu

Thanks Michel for all this info! An electric blanket....awesome.....if there’s electricity (that’ll bring back childhood memories!) And yeah, I won’t forget to bring up that anecdote I remembered from your travel journals! There can’t be many French people who speak Zulu Would you share a few Zulu basics (hello, thank you, please, goodbye...)? Malijp

Hi there,

Coming from Réunion in terms of hikes in the Drakensberg, you might be a bit disappointed. Here’s what I recommended a few years ago... Just so you know, my favorite was the "Chain Ladder Hike" or "Sentinel Peak" for its fun side, starting from the "Sentinel Car Park." Then there’s the Krack (The Crack and the Mudslide), which starts from Thendele Camp if I remember correctly. The easiest one is the Tugela Gorge (still from Thendele), a nice little walk if you take the trouble to continue with the ladders when you reach the "Tunnel." Here’s the list of hikes: https://www.royalnatal.info/hiking-royal-natal-national-park Check out my old post about the hikes I did at Thendele:

:!https://voyageforum.com/forum/randonner-dans-drakensberg-d7130305/ But I’m not sure what you’ll find in August... Otherwise, you can go skiing at Afriski (Butha-Buthe district in Lesotho! The resort is at 3,000m and it’s called Afriski!... Just kidding😏

Not easy to get the accent right on VoyageForum…

PS: In the 2015 discussion https://voyageforum.com/forum/randonner-dans-drakensberg-d7130305/ You can also check out what Willemspie says—he’s a safe bet for trekking and hiking tips. In Blyde Canyon, the Leopard Trail isn’t anything special in my opinion...

Thanks for the tips and the links. I’d already found the one for Royal Natal NP. I’ll check out the forum where you talk about the hikes you’re recommending. I think I’ll skip Sentinel Peak in August to avoid freezing on the spot! !😄 And skiing at Afriski… not even a consideration! After that, I’m really going there to soak in the views, not necessarily to exhaust myself, so I think we’ll find plenty to dream about! MaLijp

Oh yeah! It’s gonna be a bit tricky if you have to write in two versions: written and spoken!!! MaliJP

It's impossible to predict the weather conditions you'll have in August during the days you're there... All we can say is that, according to stats, rainfall is very low in August and the sky is often clear, which seems most important for hiking. Negative temperatures are quite rare (expect averages between 8 and 13°C). The chance of snow is very low... since you're planning day hikes, you just need to check the weather forecast the day before. No risk of getting stuck on the road if you don't take high-altitude passes like Sani Pass. Thendele Camp isn't at high altitude (around 1,200m if I remember correctly), so snow there must be exceptional! For reference, the Afriski ski resort in Lesotho, which peaks at 3,000m (8 to 10°C cooler on average), has been relying solely on artificial snow for years.

I don’t know your hiking levels, but the "Crack and Mudslide" trail doesn’t go very high and isn’t physically very difficult. It offers beautiful views and a equipped section (cables, ladders) in the cliff, so it’s not very dangerous. I recommend this hike—it’s more spectacular than the others around Thendele Camp.

PS: No worries about critters... snakes, etc. You’ll just see monkeys that won’t let you get close.

This is just my opinion, but I don’t see the point of staying at the Upper Resort, which is only about a hundred meters higher (you pass it when you start hiking) than the Lower Resort where we stayed. The Lower Resort is great...

I'd like to hike in Blyde Canyon (Leopard Trail or another), with a guide or without? What do you think?

There’s really no risk of snow there... No need for a guide on the Leopard Trail. The path is perfectly marked with signs... (featuring the animal if I remember correctly). It’s impossible to get lost! That said, it’s not exactly thrilling (though that’s subjective).

we should find plenty to make us dream, I feel!

Yes, the Drakensberg is a really beautiful region. Except where it's mandatory (like the rock art sites), you don’t need a guide for the classic hikes.

Just a heads-up—unless you're an experienced hiker, always add two difficulty levels to what Djalma rates.

Warning, unless you're an experienced hiker, you should always add two levels of difficulty to the level stated by Djalma.

I’ll admit I might be the hiking superhero😕, but in the Drakensberg, I hiked with my wife who’d never done any sport in her life. She’s the perfect example of an average hiker... The hikes we did together in South Africa are suitable for all average hikers—even very average ones. I’m part of a hiking club in France (I’m a mid-mountain guide) and in my club, there are people of all ages, including some octogenarians who regularly hike in the Vercors on routes with much greater elevation gain and difficulty than what I recommend in the Drakensberg. If I’m suggesting these hikes here, there’s a good reason.

Malijp mentions hiking in Mafate... No matter the starting point (Maïdo, Canal des Orangers, Col des Boeufs, Taïbit, etc.), hikes in the Mafate cirque are more challenging than those in the Drakensberg, which are offered at Thendele by the park authorities (see the hiking map given out by park staff before setting off). You said yourself you’re not a hiker in a message I can find... PS: We went to the rock art sites about 1 hour’s walk (with little elevation) from Thendele without a guide. Once there, we explored the site—the gate was left open—and we respected the place. P.S.: My wife was over 60 when we did the 4 or 5 hikes in South Africa.

Thanks Atila for the advice about guides. Now I just need to convince my partner! By the way, I just came across a worrying list of things that happened to travelers in South Africa on the Routard forum. So now I’m stressed, even though I wasn’t really worried before. We’re doing a loop: Johannesburg, Gaskrop, Kruger (Phalaborwa gate, exiting via Malelane), Eswatini, St. Lucia, Umhlanga (we’re visiting the aquarium in Durban for my daughter), Drakensberg, and back to Johannesburg. Is it really that risky? Should I try to reassure myself? Thanks for your reply. Malijp

Thanks for the tips. It reassures me about the snow side, even if one year never looks like another... For the hikes, I’ll study things more closely, but I think decisions will be made once we’re there based on the weather and the fatigue built up from the road (we’re finishing with the Drakensberg). Oops, typo: *fonction* not *focntion*! Malijp

For the hikes, I’ll study things more precisely, but I think decisions will be made once we’re there based on the weather and how tired we are from the road (we finish in the Drakensberg).

At Thendele, we decided on the route the same morning after getting up and checking the schematic map provided by the park staff. In the evening after the hike, since the weather was perfect, we decided to do another hike the next day (Tugela Gorge) and booked another night at the camp for that. Safety-wise (that’s just my feeling), I was more on edge on the road. I barely avoided a cow (near Durban) and on a hill, I found myself face-to-face with a truck! Over there, on the "hard shoulder" of the "highways," cyclists and pedestrians (Black people, not white) ride and walk against traffic... to see the danger coming! 😏 On secondary roads in poor condition where in France we’d be limited to 80 km/h, white people in their big cars happily drive at 110 or even faster!

Well, it’s a classic route That makes sense I’ve done it again and again this year (partially and more or less) I know all these spots Seriously, the risk of problems is very low Except for Durban, which remains a no-go zone for me, especially part of the beach area When I’ve heard stories from travelers or South Africans… It was in Durban or Joburg or in central Cape Town near the big hotels About hikes When a South African says "easy" It’s not going to be that easy "Medium" means it’s going to be complicated "Hard"… I’m not going RNNP, if I understand your mindset and your hiking level You’ll find hikes of a few hours or less without much difficulty If you want some extra tips for your trip Just to put your mind at ease… I’m here if you need to ask…

In short, be extra careful on the road!

A few clarifications There are no motorways in Afs. There are national roads, some with tolls and separated traffic. The yellow strip along the road isn’t an emergency lane but a usable space (not for all vehicles—it’s actually indicated on the back of the vehicle) to facilitate overtaking. It isn’t present everywhere. You’ll find the same system in Crete! As for the comments about whites in big cars and Blacks on foot or by bike (bikes are rare in Afs) on this space… It’s just the kind of remark someone who doesn’t know the country would make. Sorry, Painting that picture is false and caricatured. It’s much more complicated…

That’s a good principle. I’d add that speed cameras are getting more and more common, as are speed bumps and other traffic calming measures. It’s really great, especially around schools. Hitting a pothole (or "ostrich nest" as they call them here) on the road sure slows you down! Keeping some cash in the car isn’t a bad idea either. Aroundaboutcars, for example.

Thanks Michel for your feedback. I’ll take the lifeline you’re offering to reassure myself a bit... Is Umhlanga sketchy or not? (Because I think I can still cancel it, well, I need to check...) If it’s okay, I’ll skip the aquarium in Durban and find a Plan B around my accommodation? Or is the aquarium safe and we won’t risk anything? The other thing stressing me out: landing at 10:45 PM at the airport. I booked the first night at the Southern Sun, 400m from the airport. They told me they have a shuttle behind the Intercontinental Hotel and that it’s all good. Do you confirm, or should I order a taxi for 400m? In Graskop, St. Lucia, and Umhlanga, I booked apartments via Booking. Should I avoid eating at restaurants in the evening, or is it possible if we go by car? I hope I can ask the people giving me the keys, but you never know... Otherwise, we’ll have a braai every night! Barbecues are great too!!! For withdrawing cash when I arrive (the next day, not at 10:45 PM on the first night) and doing the first grocery shopping before getting to Graskop, what do you recommend? Are there any roads to absolutely avoid???? A thousand questions in my head, but I shouldn’t overdo it either!!!

"About hikes When a South African says easy It’s probably not that easy Moderate means it’s going to be tough Hard... I’m not going" I take note of the time difference: it’s like when, in Réunion, a Mafatais tells you they take an hour to do a trail (in flip-flops, please), and you take 2 or 3 hours with your sneakers! 😛

Thanks so much, Michel! Malijp

Small clarifications There’s no motorway in South Africa. It’s national roads, with tolls and sometimes divided traffic. The yellow strip along the road isn’t a hard shoulder but a usable space (not for all vehicles—it’s actually indicated on the back of the vehicle) to make overtaking easier. It’s not everywhere. You’ll find the same principle in... Crete! As for the white people in big cars and Black people on foot or on bikes (bikes are rare in South Africa) on that space... It’s... just the kind of remark from someone who doesn’t know this country.

Uncalled-for comment...

Did you notice I put "motorway" and "hard shoulder" in quotes? No. Obviously, it’s not a hard shoulder in the legal sense, but what difference does it make? It’s a strip, as you say, usable by all vehicles—trucks, cars, bikes, and pedestrians... If you haven’t seen bikes, well, I’ve seen them multiple times, and just like pedestrians, they use this "strip" against traffic, risking their lives! And there are plenty of Black pedestrians walking long distances along the edges of these "motorways." Probably those who can’t afford the packed minibuses? I may not know South Africa, just like you know nothing about hiking. Why would a South African, as you say, have a better grasp of hiking difficulty than a foreign hiker? For South Africans, is it easy for tourists, or medium/hard? Where do you get that info?

I’m not the only one making remarks about South Africa, especially about hiking... Here’s one example I noted. Read Willemspie’s comments (very reliable on hiking)—he wrote this in a 2015 discussion:

It’s a forum; people express different opinions, and that’s normal, including about hiking difficulty. Besides, in South Africa, they exaggerate with their safety advice and requirements (like having to hike in groups of 2, 3, or 4 minimum in some countries). Compared to many other countries, it’s easy hiking.

You don’t need to "know" South Africa to compare hiking levels... PS: On the other hand, road mortality in South Africa is very objective. The numbers speak for themselves. South Africa ranks high in the world! :https://www.atlas-mag.net/article/securite-routiere-en-2017 No, no, the roads are very safe—proof being I didn’t have an accident, and neither did you...

Don’t hesitate! Graskop is cool. Where? No worries, either here or in a PM. St Lucia… it’s more than cool. Safety is pretty much a given—the hippos are the most dangerous thing there. Lots of restaurants, including a Portuguese one (Brazzaville) or the old Ocean Basket. Umhlanga… I won’t say much since I don’t know it well.

For money: I order it from home on Yeschange. Get a little at Tambo Airport, then grab more later in Graskop, for example. There are plenty of ATMs.

Tell me your route idea for Graskop. I usually go via Dulstrom—it’s a great spot to grab lunch and do some shopping.

For the hotel: I don’t know… I arrive in Joburg in the morning. Never been to Joburg—if it were Cape Town, I could help! Just follow their recommendations.

Umhlanga—I don’t know it. I think it’s very touristy, and that’s not really my scene.

Eswatini—where are you headed? Only answer if you want. St Lucia: How long are you staying? My to-do list: Isimangaliso all the way to Cape Vidal! A boat tour in the estuary. A beach tour. It’s cool, very touristy South African style. No worries, just relax.

Over 20 trips to Southern Africa in spots even South Africans don’t know, and not a single issue! !

Just read a worrying list of things that happened to travelers in South Africa.

Nothing’s happened to me either in about fifteen trips to the area.

The biggest dangers I’ve faced are wild animals. You always have to be careful with elephants. Never corner them, always give them the right of way, and keep a safe distance. And always keep in mind that just because you don’t see anything doesn’t mean there isn’t an animal watching you. Basically, in the parks, don’t get out of the car just anywhere.

For the city parts, I don’t look for trouble by avoiding slums and other areas known to be dangerous, and I follow the host’s advice for evening outings.

On your route, it’s Johannesburg and Durban where you need to be extra careful.

For driving, I’d say it’s more relaxed than in some parts of France, more civilized... Except on some busy four-lane roads where speeds are too high for the traffic density. No need to race—just keep your own pace and let others pass, even if it means helping them by pulling over to the shoulder.

Michel and Attila, forgive my transgressions. I saw you both as potential weather hazards in August in the Drakensberg, but I never imagined that the catastrophe—so predictable, yet so predictable—would strike here in May.

@Malijp Sorry for the interlude. 😇 - For washing the car on the way back, there are plenty of car washes in the airport area. - Michel is right to suggest bringing your own firewood to Thendele. If you don’t have any left from Kruger, you’ll find some at gas stations (Thendele’s shop sells it but might run out). - Durban’s aquarium is definitely worth a visit, not just for kids. It’s practically on the beach, at the end of a pier, and has secure parking. Minimal risks in this area during the day.

Hi Michel, Two-day disconnect! In GAskrop, I rented a self-catering place that you can find on Booking and Airbnb in the north of the city. It’s great you’re asking how I’m getting there because I’m torn between two options: the direct route Johannesburg–Nelspruit–Gaskrop or the more scenic route Johannesburg–Dullstroom–Lydenburg–Gaskrop. I’m planning to pick up the car at 9 AM at the airport—enough time to handle the paperwork—do you think I’ll have time to take option 2, which I’d much prefer?

In Eswatini, we’re spending two nights at Sondzela. However, I’ve got quite a drive to get there: we’re leaving from Skukuza Rest Camp toward Malelane Gate, and I’ve been advised to take Jeep Reef to enter Eswatini and then head to Sondzela. (They told me it’s a safer route—what do you think?)

In St. Lucia, we’re only staying two nights (gotta make choices! Though since Umdloti—not Umhlanga as I initially said—isn’t far, we’ll still get a good day and a half there).

All your replies have reassured me a bit about the safety aspect. (Night landings still stress me out, but hey, we won’t be alone on the plane!)

I need to finalize the Drakensberg part, and I’m hesitating between two options: - Spending 3 nights in the same place (and it’ll be Royal Natal National Park) since we’ll have done a lot of driving and kilometers, and it’s nice to settle in!) - Splitting it into two parts: like 1 night in Champagne Valley (Emafweni looks stunning in photos, but in August, it might be a bit too high in altitude…?) and 2 nights at Royal Natal. That way, we do a short hike after the first night before heading to RN, and we have a full day for a longer hike at RN. But we’ll be rushing the whole time!!!

It’s tough making choices—this country is so vast, beautiful, and diverse! (I should’ve taken a deep breath because I’ve never been before! But based on what I’ve read in forums and guides, the praise doesn’t seem unwarranted!)

Malijp Malijp

Thanks Atila for your reply! For driving in Kruger, do they give basic advice on how to behave around animals when entering the park or not? After that, I came across a post by Michel that was pretty comprehensive about how to act, and now I have your tips too.... That doesn’t stop it from being a little scary to come face-to-face with an angry giant! Are there any specific tips for dealing with lions or buffaloes (because they’re pretty imposing too!)? I’ll definitely follow your wise advice about listening to the hosts. I just hope I’ll be able to ask them questions since I’ve often booked self-catering places (Graskop, St Lucia, Umdloti). But someone will surely give me the keys.... For Johannesburg, we didn’t have a choice since we’re arriving at 10:45 PM... so it’s one night right near the airport at the Southern Sun OR Tambo. I just hope others from our flight will be staying there too so we’re not the only ones for the hotel shuttle.... (Wouldn’t it be better to order a taxi even for 500m? I don’t know if the place where the taxis wait is safer than where we wait for the shuttle....) For Durban, we’ve only planned to go to uShaka Marine World. Given Voyajou’s message, we should stick with it (I’ll ask our host in Umdloti for their opinion :P), otherwise we’ll find plenty to see around Umdloti. MaliJP

Thanks Voyajou for your feedback. "- Durban Aquarium is definitely worth a visit, and not just for kids. It's practically on the beach, at the end of a pier, and has secure parking. Minimal risks during the day in this area." Did you visit it on a weekday or the weekend? We'll be there on a Sunday—does that change anything security-wise? How much time should we plan for it? I read in a guide that taking a taxi is recommended—so taxi or rental car, which is better? Thanks for the practical details (car wash and firewood)! Malijp

Hi Reply 1 Car at 9 AM You’ll have slept, so in theory You can go via Dulstrom That’s the route I take

Reply 2 I’d base myself in the Royal Natal National Park. You’ll have some great road-trip scenery.