Fourche de vélo télescopique Cannondale Touring
by BOB72
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Je suis possesseur depuis presque 2 ans d'un cannodale touring. C'est un très bon vélo. Il a la particularité d'avoir une fourche télescopique centrale hydraulique avec une cartouche spéciale qui coûte la peau du cul (+/- 120€ )
Je le sais car j'ai été contraint de la changer hors garantie après un peu plus d'un an d'utilation (vraiment pas de bol), la cartouche présentait en effet une rayure (origine montage ?) et j'avais donc que j'avais une fuite d'huile fatale.
Bon depuis pas de soucis sauf qu'il est nécessaire d'avoir un petite pompe pour mettre la pression à 8/10 bar.
Plus c'est sophistiqué, plus y'a d'emerdes.
Donc j'ai un gros doute pour les voyages au long cours avec ce type de fourche, d'autant que même avec une cartouche d'avance, il faut un outillage spécial, donc difficulté pour réparer.
Je serais très intéressé par vos avis sur la question;
Je me demande s'il n'est pas possible de mettre une fourche normale à la place.
Merci d'avance,
Bonjour, il est tout à fait possible de mettre une fourche au standart 1 1/8 de pouce sur une douille de direction Cannondale qui est en 1.5 pouce je crois, par contre je n'ai pas de liens à te donner, Cannondale lui meme équipe ces entrées de gamme en 1 1/8" tout en conservant la douille 1.5", à toi de choisir une rigide , une à ressorts ou elastomères moins évoluée, mais c'est sur ça existe...Par contre c'est dommage, cette suspension intégrée dans la douille de direction est une réfèrence au niveau rigidité! Je ne suis pas un spécialiste de la marque, il me semble que Cannondale avait des modèles plus simples et donc plus fiables...
C'est déjà rassurant de savoir qu'on peut mettre une fourche "normale".
Si je vois que j'ai encore des problème avec cette cartouche, je crois que ça va se finir comme ça.
Tu dis que ce système est une référence au niveau rigidité, d'accord, mais une simple rayure sur la douille et l'étanchéité fait défaut. Du coup la fourche plonge de 10 cm et tu peux difficilement rouler, car en plus le système de blocage sensé bloqué en position haute ne fonctionne alors plus non plus. Si t'es éloigné de tout réparateur, t'es mal.
Tu parles d'une alternative avec système ressort ou élastomère, Je vais me renseigner auprès d'un concessionnaire de la marque et qui connait bien ce modèle.
Merci
ça ne va pas forcément être simple de remplacer ta Fatty par une autre fourche plus fiable!
L'adaptation au niveau de la douille ne pose pas un gros probleme de diamètre... ce n'est pas le même standard mais il existe des jeux de direction spéciaux pour ça (cane creek en fait je crois), ils s'emmanchent dans une douille de 1, 5" et reçoivent un pivot de 1"1/8eme. Autre solution, il existe aussi des bagues d'adaptation 1, 5"->1"1/8eme qui permettent ensuite d'utiliser un jeu de direction standard 1"1/8eme. donc ça n'est pas un probleme de diametre.
Par contre pour la hauteur c'est un autre poème! une fatty fait environ 480/490mm de haut (axe-roue/coupelle-de-JD), et aucune fourche rigide standard ne fait une telle hauteur. même une sur mesure sortirait complètement des standards de fourreaux et tés de fourche, avec des efforts de flexion importants!.
Pour une fourche telescopique il faudra prendre une fourche de 100mm mini-mini, ou mieux 110 à 120mm de débattement pour approcher cette hauteur. si tu es en freins a disques c'est ok mais si tu veux du freinage sur jantes c'est quasi introuvable. et puis remplacer une Fatty par une autre fourche télescopique.. je ne vois pas trop ou est le gain en fait.
une solution pourrait être de trouver d'occasion une fatty basique, les modèles a élastomère et ressorts (j'en ai une mais elle n'est pas a vendre, désolé). c'était les Fatty D je crois. je ne sais pas si on en trouve encore facilement. ça pourrait te permettre d'avoir 2 fourches, celle d'origine, pneumatique, plus légère et de de meilleur qualité pour toute l'année, et celle a élastomères et ressorts, plus basique pour les voyages ou la rusticité est nécessaire.
Autre solution, monter une fourche de 100mm réputée trés fiable (hummm!! fourche télescopique assez fiable pour justifier le changement avec une fatty.. je ne vois pas comme ça immédiatement!) et passer en freinage disque a l'avant. Disque a câbles même éventuellement si l'hydraulique te fait peur.
Troisième solution: ne rien changer, bien entretenir ton vélo, connaitre ta fourche (excellente la Fatty au demeurant), prendre des petites pièces de rechange et une pompe haute pression dans la sacoche, et ne pas se faire de nœuds au cerveau tant que tout roule pour des petites vacances. Et si vraiment un jour tu envisage un TDM ou équivalent sur plusieurs mois.. changer de vélo pour un plus rustique et adapté façon bête de somme. (j'avoue que c'est la solution que je préfèrerais à ta place! ;-) Bonne chance. ;-)
L'adaptation au niveau de la douille ne pose pas un gros probleme de diamètre... ce n'est pas le même standard mais il existe des jeux de direction spéciaux pour ça (cane creek en fait je crois), ils s'emmanchent dans une douille de 1, 5" et reçoivent un pivot de 1"1/8eme. Autre solution, il existe aussi des bagues d'adaptation 1, 5"->1"1/8eme qui permettent ensuite d'utiliser un jeu de direction standard 1"1/8eme. donc ça n'est pas un probleme de diametre.
Par contre pour la hauteur c'est un autre poème! une fatty fait environ 480/490mm de haut (axe-roue/coupelle-de-JD), et aucune fourche rigide standard ne fait une telle hauteur. même une sur mesure sortirait complètement des standards de fourreaux et tés de fourche, avec des efforts de flexion importants!.
Pour une fourche telescopique il faudra prendre une fourche de 100mm mini-mini, ou mieux 110 à 120mm de débattement pour approcher cette hauteur. si tu es en freins a disques c'est ok mais si tu veux du freinage sur jantes c'est quasi introuvable. et puis remplacer une Fatty par une autre fourche télescopique.. je ne vois pas trop ou est le gain en fait.
une solution pourrait être de trouver d'occasion une fatty basique, les modèles a élastomère et ressorts (j'en ai une mais elle n'est pas a vendre, désolé). c'était les Fatty D je crois. je ne sais pas si on en trouve encore facilement. ça pourrait te permettre d'avoir 2 fourches, celle d'origine, pneumatique, plus légère et de de meilleur qualité pour toute l'année, et celle a élastomères et ressorts, plus basique pour les voyages ou la rusticité est nécessaire.
Autre solution, monter une fourche de 100mm réputée trés fiable (hummm!! fourche télescopique assez fiable pour justifier le changement avec une fatty.. je ne vois pas comme ça immédiatement!) et passer en freinage disque a l'avant. Disque a câbles même éventuellement si l'hydraulique te fait peur.
Troisième solution: ne rien changer, bien entretenir ton vélo, connaitre ta fourche (excellente la Fatty au demeurant), prendre des petites pièces de rechange et une pompe haute pression dans la sacoche, et ne pas se faire de nœuds au cerveau tant que tout roule pour des petites vacances. Et si vraiment un jour tu envisage un TDM ou équivalent sur plusieurs mois.. changer de vélo pour un plus rustique et adapté façon bête de somme. (j'avoue que c'est la solution que je préfèrerais à ta place! ;-) Bonne chance. ;-)
Salut, j'ai eu une fourche comme toi sur un vtt cannondale, et il faut bien avouer que ça n'était pas fiable du tout, je devais changer les joints et la valve tous les 18 mois à peu près.
D'autres cyclistes m'ont confirmé que le matériel cannondale était souvent performant mais peu fiable.
Ceci dit ils ont sûrement progressé depuis, donc c'est peut être juste pas de chance pour toi.
Cette réparation me coutait une vingtaine d'euros au début (à manosque) et la dernière fois à Lyon c'était au moins 60€, d'où ma décision de ne plus le réparer, en plus dès que tu as un problème il faut trouver un revendeur cannondale ce qui n'est pas toujours simple selon où tu es.
Il est possible de changer la cartouche par un modèle à rebond à élastomère plutôt que air, si tu ne fais que de la rando avec tu ne te rendras sûrement pas compte de la différence d'amortissement, mais je n'ai aucune idée du prix.
Si tu veux changer pour une fourche standart fais bien attention à la taille, il y en a une nouvelle c'est du 1 pouce 1/5 ou .5 je ne sais plus, et il ne me semble pas que ça soit la même taille que cannondale.
Mais si tu passes en 1 pouce 1/8 tu auras beaucoup plus de choix.
merci beaucoup pour ton éclairage sur la question.
Oui c'est effectivement pour un futur grand voyage que je pose la question.
Vu le risque d'emmerde, plutôt que de racheter un vélo type bête de somme comme tu dis, je préfèrerai l'alternative d'une modification de fourche avant le départ, ce sera tjs - cher qu'un nouvel achat.
BB
Merci bien pour tes renseignements,
Je vais me renseigner sur le modèle à rebond élastomère. Ce n'est que pour la rando que j'utilise mon vélo
BB
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https://curieuxcyclos.eklablog.fr/
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I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
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Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
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https://www.facebook.com/heinzstucke
https://www.facebook.com/heinzstucke
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

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I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
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Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam. My question is about getting back to Nantes. Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences. I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes. By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains. We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam. My question is about getting back to Nantes. Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences. I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes. By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains. We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
Coming soon:
https://www.Biclou.com/parcours/durance/
Starting from Faverges: 900 km over 9 days

Here’s the detailed Durance route starting from Briançon

Here’s the detailed Durance route starting from Briançon

Hi there,
I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
Hi there!
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
Hi, I'm looking for a Pino tandem bike for sale in Quebec and I can't find any. Does anyone have any info, please? Thanks a bunch!