Je prévois un séjour de 3 semaines en Namibie-Botswana et j'ai quelques hésitations sur les 2 semaines d'itinéraire en Namibie. Nous allons louer un 4x4 et dormir dans des lodges et camps. Mais j'hésite à partir complètement au sud pour voir le Fish River Canyon ou plutôt privilégier la découverte des déserts: Namib et Kalahari. Qu'en pensez-vous?
Voici le premier itinéraire :
1: Arrivée à Windhoek
2: Windhoek – Waterberg plateau
3: Waterberg plateau – Etosha (Namutoni)
4: Etosha (Ongava / Halali)
5: Etosha – Palmwag
6: Palmwag (éléphants et rhino)
7: Palmwag – Twyfelfontein ou Brandberg
8: Twyfelfontein ou Brandberg – Swakopmund (cape cross)
9: Swakopmund – Sesriem (sandwich harbour)
10: Sesriem (les dunes et le canyon)
11: Sesriem – Wolwedans (Namib Rand Reserve)
12: Wolwedans (faune et flore du désert)
13: Wolwedans – Désert du Kalahari (région Mariental)
14 : Désert du Kalahari (faune et flore du désert)
15 : Désert du Kalahari – Windhoek
16 : Départ de Windhoek
et le deuxième itinéraire:
1: Arrivée à Windhoek
2: Windhoek – Waterberg plateau
3: Waterberg plateau – Etosha (Namutoni)
4: Etosha (Ongava / Halali)
5: Etosha – Palmwag
6: Palmwag (éléphants et rhino)
7: Palmwag – Twyfelfontein ou Brandberg
8: Twyfelfontein ou Brandberg – Swakopmund (cape cross)
9: Swakopmund – Sesriem (sandwich harbour)
10: Sesriem (dunes et canyon)
11: Sesriem – Wolwedans ou Aus (faune et flore du désert)
12: Wolwedans ou Aus – Fish River Canyon
13: Fish River Canyon
14 : Fish River Canyon - Mariental (faune et flore du désert)
15 : Mariental – Windhoek
16 : Départ de Windhoek
J'ai encore une question! Je viens de voir dans mon guide que pour aller à Sandwich Harbour (visite que je comptait inclure dans mon programme), il faut une autorisation spéciale et maitriser la conduite du 4X4 ou bien prendre une excursion guidée depuis Walvis Bay. Est-ce que quelqu'un a déjà pris un tour pour aller dans cet endroit, avec quelle compagnie et pour quel budget? Cela vaut-il vraiment le détour?
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses! Et Joyeux Nouvel An!
Quelques commentaires (qui n'engagent que moi...) sur le circuit
Waterberg: oui si cette étape est considérée comme une pause pour aller à Etosha ou pour faire des ballades à pied, sinon il vaut mieux éviter.
Sandwich Harbor: Faire seul très très difficile, demande une excellente maitrise du 4x4 sur sable et dunes, parcours pouvant devenir dangereux si on ne connait pas la/les pistes, je déconseille totalement!
Je l'ai fait avec Mola Mola (Walvis Bay) en combinaison avec un tour du lagon en bateau: très bon souvenir, Otaries, Pélicans, etc.. + parcours dans les dunes innoubliable, nécessite une journée entière prix >100 euros par pers.
Palmwag: Pour les rhinos, ils ne peuvent être vus qu'en partant en safari avec le Lodge se renseigner sur la durée nécessaire.
Sinon de belles ballades dans la concession avec un 4x4 a condition d'aimer rouler dans des champs de pierres...
Concernant le sud de la Namibie je ne connais pas, mais le nord (kaokoland, Sesfontein avec la rivière Hoanib, Epupa falls, et les Himbas) vaut vraiment le détour surtout avec un 4x4
En 4x4, dès que l'on quite les pistes routières des cartes, il peut être utile d'avoir un GPS avec un logiciel "Off Road" permettant de représenter avec précision sa trace, moi ça m'a évité de me perdre ...
En fait, j'hésite assez entre les déserts du sud ou le Kaokoland. Au début, j'avais très envie de faire un détour culturel et rencontrer le peuple Himba, mais j'ai lu plusieurs critiques sur la visite des villages Himbas "trop touristique" et je ne comptais pas aller jusqu`à Epupa Fall, car nous avons planifier les Victoria falls à la fin de notre séjour...
Comment se déroule la visite des village Himba? Faut-il prendre un guide/traducteur ou peut-on les visiter seul? Combien de temps faut-il compter pour visiter sans stress le Kaokoland (Sesfontein avec la rivière Hoanib jusqu'à Epupa falls) depuis Etosha et retour par le Damaraland?
Est-ce qu'une journée d'excursion depuis Sesfontein est suffisant pour aller à la rencontre des Himbas et avoir un bel aperçu des paysages du nord?
Pour l'excursion à Sandwich Harbour depuis Walvis Bay, quel est le meilleur lieu pour loger (Walvis bay, le Namib)?
Une dernière question, combien de kilomètres et de temps faut-il compter pour une étape entre Windhoek et Etosha? N'est-ce pas un peu trop long? Autrement, connaissez-vous une autre étape que le plateau du Waterberg, par exemple Omaruru?
Encore merci pour les commentaires... C'est toujours très utile pour organiser son voyage.
bonjour gerry
plusieurs réponses pour plusieurs questions 🙂
pour sandwich harbour, infaisable seul sans une grande maitrise du 4x4 et de la conduite dans le sable profond
en juillet dernier le prix était de 130 € par pers et cela prend toute la matinée donc à prévoir dans les temps de parcours
pour rendre visite aux himbas il faut impérativement prendre un guide 1 pour les trouver, 2 pour entrer en relation et les comprendre. Il est vrai qu'il y a des villages constitués pour les touristes notament celui de puros mais j'ai eu la chance d'en voir un autre près de seisfontein absolument autenthique. un grand moment d'émotion
pour relier etosha depuis windhoek il faut compter un bon 5 h00 de route goudronnée très roulante, j'éviterais waterberg qui n'a pas d'interêt si on ne s'y arrête pas vraiment, en plus ça peut te faire gagner un jour dans etosha 2 jours pour le traverser c'est faisable bien sur mais c'est limite
okakeijo - palmwag il faut également compter un bon 5 / 6 de route
je ne connais pas le sud mais la région du kaokoland est absolument fantastique. le gps n'est pas indispensable sauf si tu vas dans les vallées de marienfluss et hartmann mais là c'est une autre expédition
si tu n'as pas beaucoup de temps a y consacrer tu peux faire un aller retour au départ de seisfontein jusqu'à puros et tu auras un très bon apercu de la beauté de cette région. attention quand m^me la piste est difficile 3h30 pour faire 100 km
Je ne connais pas encore Victoria Falls (dommage !) mais Epupa est un endroit magnifique pour a la fois les chutes (pas trop impressionnantes toutefois ) le site avec la rivière Kunene qu'il faut aller explorer en 4x4 voire descendre en canoé, le paysage autour des chutes et les Himbas qui vivent réellement sur place (plusieurs villages et leurs cimetières). Cela dit il faut vraiment compter 3 jours depuis Opuwo ou Sesfontein.
Pour une 1ère visite d'un village Himbas un guide/traducteur est nécessaire pour les explications et faciliter le dialogue..
On peut y aller seul mais alors cela devient une simple visite et on reste avec ses questions...
Depuis Sesfontein le parcours dans le lit de la rivière Hoanib (1 journée entière) révèle des paysages magnifiques, un guide local que l'on emmène dans son 4x4 permet de s'aventurer sans risque dans la brousse hors de toute trace à la recherche des éléphants.
Visite des Himbas depuis Sesfontein oui sûrement mais je n'ai pas fait.
Sandwich Harbour: le départ se fait du port de Walvis, je n'aime pas la ville de Swakopmund, trop de monde, trop de touristes, trop "allemand" on n'est plus en Namibie...Walvis est très calme avec une jolie baie, je vote donc pour résider à Walvis avec vue sur le lagon...
Etape entre Windhoek et Etosha-Est: c'était le but du choix du choix du Waterberg je n'ai pas fait d'autre étape, la route est assez monotone et si c'est les 1er km en Namibie il faut s'habituer à la conduite sur les pistes donc on ne roule pas encore trop vite !
Rallier directement Etosha-Est (Namutoni) est peut être possible mais ça sera une rude 1ère journée... et il faut arriver à Namutoni avant le coucher du soleil (17H30 env en juin juillet) ou alors s'arréter avant l'entrée du parc d'Etosha.
Pour l'étape windhoek - Etosha, je pense que nous allons opter pour un arrêt en cours de route, car pour le premier jour en Namibie, nous ne voulons pas être trop stressé! Mais nous ferons plutôt étape à Omaruru, c'est moins direct, mais j'ai lu des bonne critiques sur la région (Spitzkoppe) et cela fera quand même moins de kilomètres pour la première journée.
Après Etosha, nous allons faire un détour par Sesfontein (la vallée Hoanib et Purros) et redescendre sur le Damaraland, puis Cape Cross et Walvis Bay pour finir par le Namib (Sesriem et Namib Rand ou Kalahari). Bref, comme cela nous faisons un bon compromis entre le kaokoland et le désert.
bonsoir Gerry,
Nous sommes rentrés de Namibie il y a déjà un mois et demi et nous sommes toujours sous l'effet de la magie de ce pays!
Pour ce qui est de sandwich Harbour, je suis d'accord avec tous ceux qui t'ont répondu : ce n'est pas à faire d'aller seul en 4x4 là-bas.
L'excursion avec Mola-Mola est chère (100€)et j'ai bcp hésité mais nous avons finalement opté pour le "marine dune day" qui te permet de visiter la lagune le matin et de voir de près les otaries(même d'en caresser), pélicans et autres animaux du lieu et après un dîner de fruits de mer sur la plage, d' aller dans les dunes faire du 4x4. Cela reste un de nos meilleurs souvenirs et le prix s'oublie!....Il y a d'autres agences qui peuvent t'y emmener moins cher mais nous n'avons pas osé vu que nous n'avions aucune référence et que partout Mola-Mola est cité comme très bon. Ils ont été supers. Les explications étaient intéressantes et le guide nous a même ramené jusqu'à la porte de notre hôtel le soir(nous étions venus à pied à l'agence le matin.)
Pour le choix de l'itinéraire, ns avons opté pour le sud mais nous n'avions qu'une toyota condor 2x4 et pour le grand canyon, le 4x4 aurait été plus confortable et sécurisant. Ns avons fait la partie où personne ne va, càd celle du grand canyon lodge où tu loges devant le gouffre et où tu peux descendre dans le fonds du canyon pour un pic-nic day. Très cher aussi mais on ne le regrette pas. On était tout seuls devant le canyon et on a pu comparer avec le grand frère américain et c 'est différent au niveau couleurs, relief et animaux. Notre regret a été de ne pas pouvoir faire le tour du canyon pour voir l'autre versant pcq sans 4x4 ce n'est pas possible....si tu veux que je t'envoie les photos de ce versant, fais-le moi savoir et je te les envoie.
il est tjrs ds mes projets de faire un site avec les photos mais la technique n'est pas mon fort et je trouve que vous vous débrouillez tous bien mieux que moi au niveau photos mais par contre celles du canyon sont ok.
Pour Etosha, je trouve aussi que 3jours plutôt que 2 ce n'est pas un luxe.
Pour le Waterberg, l'excursion a été décevante mais on a regretté de ne pas avoir eu de tps pour y faire une rando. les photos de là sont superbes et les paysages grandioses. le camp Bernabé de la bat est de plus très confortable
Voilà pour les renseignements que je crois utiles. N'hésite pas à recontacter si tu veux d'autres précisions sur ces régions
Bonne préparation de voyage
marolo
Après plusieurs semaines de consultations de sites, en particulier celui de ce forum bien sûr, nous venons de terminer de "booker" l'ensemble d'un voyage que nous effectuerons en juillet/août prochains...
Voici quelques renseignements sur les choix que nous avons faits, et qui peuvent éventuellement t'aider dans les tiens...🙂, pour la partie qui t'intéresse :
Location de voiture depuis LE CAP (343 ZAR par jour pour une Opel Zafira avec kilomètrage illimité, et surtout possibilité d'aller en Namibie, Bostwana et Zimbabwe). Location par l'intermédiaire de aroundaboutcars.com qui propose des prix nettement moins élevés que ce qu'on a pu trouver en Namibie. 8-9-10 Juillet : trois jours dans la région du Cap, pour profiter des différentes curiosités du coin... 11 Juillet : Le Cap --> Springbok, avec nuit au "Annie's Cottage" 12 Juillet : Springbok --> Fish River Canyon, avec nuit au Lodge du même nom. 13 Juillet : survol du Canyon en avion le matin à l'aube (à peu près 60 € par personne) et route vers Sossusvlei pour nuit au Lodge, "Sundowner Drive" (15 €) et "Sunrise Scenic Flight" le lendemain matin (60 € par personne). 14 Juillet : route vers Swakopmund pour trois nuits au "Beach Lodge" 15 Juillet : "Marine Dune Day" de Mola-Mola, qui semble recueillir l'unanimité des suffrages, avec matinée dans le lagon avec dauphins, otaries, et autres pélicans, puis après pique-nique sur la plage (avec huitres et champagne local 😛), excursion en 4x4 dans les dunes vers Sandwich Harbour, tout ça pour un prix d'environ 100 € par personne, 80€ pour les enfants... 16 Juillet : Cape Cross et Welwitschia Plains Drive 17 Juillet : Route vers Khorixas, en passant par le Spitzkoppe. Nuit au "Khorixas Rest Camp". 18 Juillet : Suivant l'humeur, visite de quelques curiosités du coin (Petrified Forest, Organ Pipes, Vingerklip, Brandberg...) et route vers Otjitongwe Cheetah Farm, où pour environ 50 € par personne, nous aurons droit à chambre + diner + "Cheetah Tour". 19 Juillet : Route vers Etosha pour deux nuits au camp d'Okaukuejo et deux jours de safari... 20-21 Juillet : Parc d'Etosha puis route vers Grootfoontein pour nuit au "Roy's Camp" 22 Juillet : Route vers le "Mahango National Park" en passant par les Popa Falls. Nuit au Mahango River Lodge. 23 Juillet : Traversée de la bande de Caprivi, avec arrivée au Bostwana pour deux nuits au "Chobe Safari Lodge" 24 Juillet : "Game Drive" et "Boat Cruise" dans le Chobe National Park 25 Juillet : traversée d'une nouvelle frontière pour rejoindre l'hôtel "Mercure A'Zambezi" à Victoria Falls pour deux nuits sur place. 26 Juillet : suivant l'humeur et les opportunités, visite des chutes, à pied, à cheval ou en vélo, en voiture, ULM ou hélico...😉 27 Juillet : retour au Bostwana, en passant éventuellement par la rive de Zambie, et route vers Maun, avec nuit au "Sedia Riverside Hotel" pour faire un "Scenic Flight" au-dessus du Delta de l'Okavango (environ 40 € par personne) et, si la peur des hippopotames éprouvée par la famille est maitrisée 😊, "Mokoro Trip"... 28 Juillet : retour vers Nata et nuit au "Nata Lodge" 29 Juillet : longue étape vers l'Afrique du Sud, en passant la frontière à "Pioneer Gate" (Lobatse) et pour deux nuits dans un hôtel tenu par des Français expatriés : "Authentique French Guest House". 30 Juillet : visite du Parc du Pilanesberg et jet de cil sur Sun City 😎 31 Juillet : Route vers Johannesburg en passant devant le "Voortrecker Monument", fin de trip à "Gold Reef City", puis nuit au "Airport Sun Hotel" pour rendre la voiture et envol le lendemain matin vers Antananarivo... mais c'est une autre histoire 😏
Tout ça a été réservé sans aucune difficulté par courriels, directement avec les prestataires, sauf pour le camp d'Etosha, pour lequel nous sommes passés par "Namibia Reservation" (Ils prennent 3 %)...
Voili, voili... Si celà peut servir...🙂
Bonne année à toutes et tous... et si certains pensent croiser notre route, pourquoi pas une rencontre là-bas...??? 😉
Merci, pour l'info sur le site internet: Namibia Reservation. Il y a quelques hôtels dont je n'arrivais pas avoir les tarifs et qui sont regroupés sur ce super site!!!
On hésite à partir en novembre ou décembre pour la Namibie et le Botswana, car c'est la saison basse, donc les prix sont nettement plus avantageux!!! Mais c'est le début de la saison des pluies (des petites averses ne nous impressionnent pas, tant que l'on ne se retrouve pas tous les jours avec un ciel noir (C'est dommage pour les photos!)) et il paraît que les animaux commencent à se disperser!!! Cela commence à faire beaucoup de points négatifs! Est-ce que quelqu'un est déjà parti pendant cette période? Est-ce qu'il est encore facile d'observer les animaux (Etosha, les Elephants du désert Damaraland / Kaokoland et au delta de l'Okavango).
De plus, pour la location de la voiture faut-il absolument un 4X4? Est-ce que l'on est pas un peu ennuyé avec un 2X4 à Sesriem, au Damaraland et à Sesfontein (seulement le sud du Kaokoland)?que de questions...
C'est effectivement à cause du prix que nous avons renoncé à l'hélicoptère au dessus du Delta : 900 US$ de l'heure 🙁, celà fait quand même beaucoup...
Dommage de se louper au Pilanesberg...😮... Mais peut-être les premiers pourront-ils laisser un indice pour les suivants... 😎
Pour ce qui est du 4x4, il semble bien qu'il ne soit vraiment pas nécessaire pour le parcours que nous avons choisi : les quelques kilomètres de Sesriem pouvant être "affrétés" sur place ou au pire, remplacés par une heure de marche...😛
Il n'en est sans doute pas de même pour le Nord-Ouest et la rencontre des Himbas.... C'est d'ailleurs une des raisons qui nous a fait renoncer à cette région, ajoutée au fait que, comme nous l'avons souligné dans un précédent message, nous sommes réticents à la rencontre rapide et organisée, donc artificielle et superficielle, avec une population qui mérite beaucoup plus de considération (Cf. remarquable film de FR3 sur l'expérience de Muriel Robin, à mon avis beaucoup plus enrichissant pour la connaissance des Himbas qu'un "tour" et quelques photos)... Mais ce que j'en dis...🙂
Notre choix de ne pas utiliser de 4x4 a également été motivé par des raisons évidentes de coût : location nettement moins chère (plus de 800 € de moins pour notre périple) et consommation plus faible, et de sécurité : la conduite d'un 4x4 ne semblant pas aussi simple que ce que l'on voit sur les trottoirs de Neuilly...😉
Bonne continuation de préparation... et bien sûr à disposition pour toute aide possible...
Si je peux me permettre de mettre mon grain de sel...
Bonne escale à Waterberg, même si ce n'est que pour faire une petite balade au sommet du plateau.
Si tu ne passes que 2 nuits à Etosha, je te conseille de dormir à Okaukuejo où de très nombreux animaux viennent boire dès la nuit tombée. Tu es quasi sûr de voir des rhinos.
Twyfelfontein-Swakopmund, c'est faisable en 1 journée, mais il faut partir très tôt, surtout si tu passes par Cape Cross.
Tu risques d'être déçu par autant de temps dans le Kalahari namibien. Je te conseille plutôt de pousser jusqu'au Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, en Afrique du Sud, dont l'entrée par Mata Mata sera réouverte au printemps 2007.
En novembre et décembre la saison des pluies est malgré tout bien commencée. En 2006 elle a même commencée en Octobre.Mais il est évident que l'on ne peut rien prédire pour 2007mais depuis 2 ans les pluies sont abondantes et de longue durée.Le animaux commencent à se disperser dès les premières pluies importantes. À Etosha par exemple les nombreux éléphants avaient déjà migré vers une partie du parc non visitable par les touristes.
D'autre part Etosha est toujours visitable avec une 2 roues motrices (certaines pistes sont fermées s'il y a trop d'eau) mais Seesfontein et la vallée de l'Hoanib ne sont faisables qu'en 4x4 et encore plus à la saison des pluies D'autre part les éléphants du désert peuvent être n'importe où
Pour le delta de l'Okavango les animaux sont toujours présents(les crues sont généralement plus tardives) mais les pistes peuvent aussi se dégrader
Dernier facteur non négligeable :attention à la chaleur vraiment très importante de jour comme de nuit même si l'orage de fin de journée rafraichit un peu l'atmospère.
Hello, je m'incruste!
Tu crois qu'il est préférable d'aller du côté du kalahari transfrontier park, plutôt que descendre vers aus, y rester 2 jours et remonter la à priori très belle route le long du désert namibien?
Je n'arrête pas de me poser la question!?
Globalement, les paysages namibiens sont superbes. Mais en dehors d'Etosha, on ne voit pas beaucoup d'animaux, et lors de mon voyage là-bas, cela m'a un peu frustré.
J'ai visité le sud du pays : Lüderitz, Aus, Fish River Canyon, etc. C'était sympa, mais a posteriori, je me dis que si je devais refaire un voyage en Namibie, je pousserais jusqu'au Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. D'autant plus que ce n'est vraiment pas loin de Keetmanshoop, et que le poste frontière de Mata-Mata sera bientôt ré-ouvert.
Je m'étais rendu dans ce parc il y a bien longtemps (12 ans déjà) et il m'a beaucoup marqué avec ses paysages désertiques vraiment fabuleux. Mais c'est surtout l'un des endroits d'Afrique Australe où on a le plus de chances de voir des fauves. J'y ai par exemple observé pendant 2 heures un groupe de 10 lions dont certains se sont approchés vraiment très près de la voiture. Super souvenir !
L'été prochain, on retourne en Afrique du Sud, et bien sûr ce parc sera au programme, même s'il est excentré, et finalement plus abordable lorsqu'on visite la Namibie.
C'est vrai que tout le monde parle de ce parc comme étant vraiment super! Ah la, la, rien n'est simple, trop de belles choses à voir!!!!
Je te remercie de ta réponse et je réétudie tout ça.
Pour vos "sacs à viande" en polaire, fabrication maison (évoqués dans une autre discussion), vous avez acheté de la polaire au mètre???
Hello tout le monde, bonne et heureuse année 2007.
Pour ma part je reviens juste de ce fabuleux pays depuis maintenant une semaine et je déprime depuis mon retour.
Conçernant la saison décembre elle à été formidable sans aucun nuage et aucune pluie(ex:52 degrés à sesriem). Nous avons privilegiés cette saison pour 2 raisons tout d'abord les prix et par le fait que cette saison est bien moins touristique. C'est simple nous étions tout seul dans les campsites et les lodges.
Je suis d'accord avec vous sur le fait que le Waterberg est éventuellement à Zapper; sympa mais sans plus !!!!Par contre moi j'ai adoré le sud plus partuculièrement cette superbe piste qui suit la Orange River Frontière entre la RSA et la Namibie. La route bitumée entre Aus et Luderitz est super chiante et ennuyeuse: heureusement que nous avons aperçu les fameux Wild Horses de Namibie en cours de route pour me réveiller.
Je peux simplement vous dire que cela prend des heures et des heures sur les pistes pour relier les différentes étapes, n'ometer pas ce détail très important dans la planification de votre itinéraire.
Lors de mon prochain voyage en Namibie je Zapperais Les villes de Luderitz et Swakopmund pour me concentrer sur le Kaokoland, j'ai uniquement poussé jusqu'à Sesfonstein et par manque de temps je n'ai pas pu aller jusqu'à Opuwo (soit 5000 KMS en Quinze Jours), mais cette facette de la Namibie est à mon goût la plus belle et la plus sauvage c'est vraiment l'afrique.!!!!!
Concernant les Lodges celui de Bagatelle vers Mariental est super, le Wolvedans Inoubliable !!!!!( une fois dans sa vie!!!) et le Mowani Moutain Camp ou nous sommes tombés Amoureux du paysage vers Twyfelfontein.....
En résumé destination inoubliable avec des gens inoubliables
en dehors d'Etosha, on ne voit pas beaucoup d'animaux, et lors de mon voyage là-bas, cela m'a un peu frustré.
bonjour bbirdy cela est peut être vrai pour le sud du pays que je ne connais pas mais pas pour le nord, enfin pour le damaraland et le kaokoland je ne suis pas de cet avis nous y avons vu énormément d'animaux mais beaucoup plus sauvages et craintifs qu'à Etosha donc plus durs à approcher. c'est d'ailleurs pour ca que je préconise toujours de finir le périple par Etosha pour justement pouvoir s'émerveiller de tous ces animaux sauvages en totale liberté dans ces décors enchanteurs avant.
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?