Discussion · VoyageForum

This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.

Original post

Isap29

GlobetrotterBretagne · 4,776 posts

2018-01-25

Bonsoir,

après une partie "Généralités", voici le début réel du parcours envisagé ; n'hésitez pas à y apporter vos critiques (le parcours est divisé en 4 discussions pour alléger).

Les distances et temps de trajets proviennent de Googlemaps et sont UNIQUEMENT des temps de trajet. Mais ces temps ne semblent pas déconnants, même sur pistes ; à titre d'exemple : - Gobabeb (D2186, D1983) => C14/Walvis Bay (GMaps) : 88km, 1h32 - Gobabeb (D2186, D1983) => C14/Walvis Bay (T4A) : 95km, 1h41 10% d'écart mais quid des points exacts de départ/arrivée. Au pire, 10% sur 4h de roulage, ça ne fait que 24mn.

15 aout : lever soleil 7h15, coucher 18h36 01 sept : lever soleil 7h01, coucher 18h41 15 sept : lever soleil 6h47, coucher 18h45

====================================================================== PART 1 ouest (1) : Windhoek => Swakopmund ======================================================================

J01 : Départ aéroport de Brest Si AF, Brest=>CDG=>Joburg=>Windhoek arrivée début PM (même compagnie, plus simple pour les bagages) Si AN, Brest=>CDG=>Francfort=>Windhoek arrivée début AM (plus court en temps, mais autre transporteur pour CDG)

-- Pour les billets d'avion, pas encore décidé de la compagnie : Air France ou Air Namibia, chacune avec ses avantages et ses inconvénients. Le choix influera sur les 2 premiers jours sur place. ==============

J02 : Windhoek => Londiningi lodge (serait en vente ?)

arrivée avion (éviter le week-end pour courses/alcool/banque). Récup véhicule (plusieurs heures pour inventaire et manip tente) et "Tourmaline". 2h min.

Nuit Londiningi. Réserver le repas du soir pour facilité. -- J'ai mis Tourmaline entre guillemets car rien de défini pour l'instant ==============

J03 : Windhoek => Camp Gecko : 198km, 3h40 (via Kupferberg Pass & Spreetshoogte Pass)

"Tourmaline" si pas la veille. Banque. Courses (Spar).

nuit à Camp Gecko (en choisissant Hilltop ou Eagle campsites) ; 2 possibilités entre autres : - via Rehoboth, C24, D1261, D1275 (Spreetshoogte Pass) : 225km, 3h - via C26, D1265, D1261, D1275 (Spreetshoogte Pass) : 198km, 3h40

Arriver vers 16h au plus tard => départ au plus tard à midi.

==============

J04 : Camp Gecko => Sesriem camp site : 113km, 1h33

Sesriem camp site NWR ; quel serait le "meilleur" emplacement ? et a-t-on le choix ?

Prendre permis Namib Naukluft park pour les jours suivants : - Sesriem : N$80 ppers. pjour + N$10 voiture. (J4) - camping : N$100 + N$50 ppers. (J4) - Naukluft : N$40 ppers. + N$10 voiture // pjour (J5, J6+Nuit, J8+Nuit) => voir fiche tarifs - Mirabib, Homeb, Vogelfederberg, Bloedkoppie, Groot tinkas : N$10 ppers. + N$10 voiture+ camping site N$70 only the B2, C28, D1982, D1998, and C14 are permit-free

balade dans Sossusvlei... canyon (pas indispensable) coucher de soleil sur Elim Nuit Sesriem campsite (intérieur du parc) -- Lorsque l'on prend son/ses permits pour la nuit dans le Namib Naukluft park, doit-on spécifier le nom du camping et si oui, est-ce immuable ? ==============

J05 : Sesriem => NN Rest Camp : 94km, 1h40 Ouverture à 5h30 car on dort dans le parc. Lever de soleil sur Big Daddy puis Deadvlei, Hiddenvlei...

Départ pour Namib Naukluft Rest Camp camping 210$/P, waterpoint and a clean ablutions block

Olive trail (4h) donc départ de Seisriem avant midi.

nuit sur place ==============

J06 : NN Rest Camp => Mirabib ? : 235km, 3h45 Waterkloof trail (partiel) départ vers midi ?

Solitaire (carburant, pain, le célèbre Apfel Strudel ; le "boulanger" -Moose- est décédé) Kuiseb Pass : point de vue sur la gauche puis sur la droite, pique-nique sous le pont ?, seul point d’ombre à plusieurs lieues à la ronde.

camping "sauvage" avec permis du parc, à Aruvlei Campsite : 193km, 3h01 Il semble y avoir des arbres ou camping "sauvage" avec permis du parc, à Mirabib Campsite : 235km, 3h45 pas d'arbre mais des rochers ou si risques sur la piste camping "sauvage" avec permis du parc, à Vogelfederberg Campsite : 255km, 3h33

Il y aurait même un "camping" à Homeb ?

Suivant les cartes, la D2186 serait plus ou moins carrossable ? --

Quel serait votre choix de camping pour cette nuit ? Mirabib me parait bien (campsite 5) mais ... ==============

J07 : Mirabib? => Walvis Bay/Swakopmund : 256km, 4h30

Homeb intéressant ? (D2186), Gobabeb (D1983), Rooibank en supposant la piste faisable par nous !!!

Mirabib - Homeb (via D2186)=> 77km, 1h20 Mirabib - Homeb (via Gobabeb) => 54km, 1h40 Homeb - Gobabeb => 20km, 0h20 Gobabeb - Walvis Bay via Rooibank (D1983) => 99km, 1h44

Flamand roses, otaries. Salines (flamands) sur la route vers Pelican Point Pelican Point ? pas trop de risque de s'ensabler ?

belles dunes entre Walvis-Bay et Swakopmund

Walvis - Swakopmund => 42km, 0h40 courses à Swakopmund -22.673459, 14.526968 Réserver au Thug pour J09

Sophia Dale Base Camp : 130N$/p elec (12km est de Swakop) le propriétaire est aussi boucher et il propose sa propre viande au restaurant et à la vente (pas le week-end). --

Est-il intéressant de pousser jusqu'à Homeb ? Après Gobabeb, 2 possibilités pour rejoindre Walvis Bay : - continuer sur la D2186 et rejoindre la C14 vers Vogelfederberg Campsite (beaux rochers) ; - pousser jusqu'à Rooibank sur la D1983. Qu'n pensez-vous ? Ces pistes ne sont-elles pas trop "molles", trop sableuses ? ==============

J08 : Swakopmund => Welwitschia Drive => Blutkuppe : Max 164km, 2h30

Living Desert Tour : http://www.livingdesertnamibia.com/tours.htm#lda 8h-13h : 700N$/p (ils prennent à l'hôtel mais pas forcément au camping)

Welwitschia Drive, Moon Landscape sur la même piste (~3 à 4h) : sûrement pas tout !!!

Tinkas Campsite (via Welwesc et Blut) : Max 164km, 2h30 Bloedkoppie (via Welwes) : Max 156km, 2h24 camping "sauvage" avec permis du parc, à Moon Landscape (fond de vallée) ou Bloedkoppie ou Tinkas. Peut-on choisir après avoir eu le permis ou doit-on le faire en le prenant ?

Tinkas campsite : avantage d'être près de la piste pour Rock Arch ==============

J09 : Blutkuppe => Swakopmund : 142km, 2h35

Rock Sculpture Hiking Trail 2h30 - 3h00 Rock Arch : la piste qui va à l'arche est très caillouteuse et prend du temps.

retour Swakopmund

nuit à The Stiltz (par exemple) pas de repas 1000N$/p (70€/P pdej inclus) laundry wi-fi

diner : the Tug (un petit km au nord du Stiltz) ; y aller à pieds ? NB : la plupart des restos sur la côte ferme dès 20 heures.

====================================================================== FIN PART 1 ====================================================================== --

Résumé des étapes : PART 1 ouest (1) : Windhoek => Swakopmund

J03 : Windhoek => Camp Gecko : 198km, 3h40 J04 : Camp Gecko => Sesriem camp site : 113km, 1h33 J05 : Sesriem => NN Rest Camp : 94km, 1h40 J06 : NN Rest Camp => Mirabib ? : 235km, 3h45 J07 : Mirabib? => Walvis Bay/Swakopmund : 256km, 4h30 J08 : Swakopmund => Welwitschia Drive => Blutkuppe : Max 164km, 2h30 J09 : Blutkuppe => Swakopmund : 142km, 2h35

donc, hormis J07, pas de gros roulage.

Merci d'avance pour vos commentaires.

Voyajou Globetrotter ·2018-01-26

Bonjour,

arrivée avion (éviter le week-end pour courses/alcool/banque).

Ce n'est pas un critère décisif: les grands supermarchés sont ouverts le dimanche, les ATM itou et si tu veux absolument changer, il y a un bureau de change ouvert le week-end sur Independance Avenue; pour l'alcool ta GH te dépannera si tu y mets les formes. 😊 Pour moi, il n'est de meilleur jour que le dimanche pour visiter une grande ville.

Pelican Point ? pas trop de risque de s'ensabler ?

En période de fortes marées, distrait par la copilote, ça peut arriver (photo) 😇

courses à Swakopmund -22.673459, 14.526968

Pour le meilleur assortiment de fruits et légumes de la ville: 22°34'08,54''S 17°04'53,93''E 😉

Réserver au Thug pour J09

Jetty 1905, à la pointe de la jetée devant le Tug: incomparablement supérieur et moins fréquenté par les touristes. Ou alors, surtout en fin de semaine, là où les locaux viennent se détendre en famille: Tiger Reef Beach Bar & Grill (à deux pas du Stiltz)

Si je peux me permettre un avis général et personnel:

Un parcours assez classique en Namibie, mais en prenant son temps

Très classique et trop minuté pour réellement prendre son temps. Mais chacun sa façon de voyager... dans le temps. 🙂

Atila Globetrotter ·2018-01-26

Tu m'as devancée sur ton ensablement. ..😏

Atila Globetrotter ·2018-01-26

Pelican Point ? pas trop de risque de s'ensabler

Si tu ne t'es pas déjà ensablé à Sossusvlei. ..😇

Je ne pense pas que je tenterai ce passage. Sable et eau, ça me semble le pire des scénarios.

Quid de l'excursion à Sandwich harbour ?

Isap29 Globetrotter ·2018-01-26

Bonsoir Jean-Luc,

et merci pour tes infos.

Très classique et trop minuté pour réellement prendre son temps.

J'ai l'impression, en lisant les divers compte-rendus, de ne pas aller trop vite. Le fait d'avoir un road-book précis, c'est une habitude prise aux USA, mais je ne respecte pas forcément 😉, c'est un canevas. Si tu as des idées pour ralentir, pas de soucis 😉, au contraire. Par contre, calssique, oui, évidemment. Quand tu arrives pour la première fois, c'est forcément du classique. Et comme je ne suis pas sûr d'y revenir, j'ai envie d'en faire le plus possible 😇.

Mais chacun sa façon de voyager... dans le temps.

Dans la partie USA, j'ai un peu la réputation d'être lambin. Nous dormons dans la voiture, en camping sauvage la pluspart du temps, en totale autonomie (mini 40l d'eau dans parmer du pinard).

Bon week-end.

Voyajou Globetrotter ·2018-01-26

Dans la partie USA... Nous dormons dans la voiture, en camping sauvage la plupart du temps, en totale autonomie

Nous aussi, pendant trois mois de l'Oregon à la Virginie, via le Texas. (Je ne te précise pas où j'ai pris cette photo. 😉)

Isap29 Globetrotter ·2018-01-27

Bonjour Jean-Luc,

Je ne te précise pas où j'ai pris cette photo

J'aurais tendance à dire Lac Powell du côté de Page ; on voit nettement la baisse du niveau d'eau. Merveilleux souvenir pour nous qui avons pu y rester 5 jours en bateau.

pendant trois mois

Nous sommes battus (2 mois max) mais je travaillais encore et je ne pense pas que mon patron aurait accepté 3 mois 😉.

Bon week-end.

Isap29 Globetrotter ·2018-01-27

Re,

courses à Swakopmund -22.673459, 14.526968

Pour le meilleur assortiment de fruits et légumes de la ville: 22°34'08,54''S 17°04'53,93''E

Je viens de vérifier, c'est à Windhoek, pas à Swakopmund 😉, mais je garde l'adresse pour nos premières courses. Merci encore.

Voyajou Globetrotter ·2018-01-27

Ce qui confirme deux choses: - tu ne vas pas être facile à perdre. 😉 - mes indications matérielles sont peu fiables.

Bon, je me suis trompé de page du road-book 😇. Voici les coordonnées de l'enseigne à Swakopmund: 22°40'21.94''S 14°31'58.87''E Si vous êtes friands de fruits et légumes, vous ne reverrez pas un tel assortiment hivernal avant votre retour à... Windhoek

(Lake Powell, of course!)

Isap29 Globetrotter ·2018-01-28

Bonjour Jean-Luc,

Si vous êtes friands de fruits et légumes

Merci, coordonnées rectifiées 😎 ; fruits et légumes permettent d'avoir une alimentation un peu plus variée avec, même, de la simplicité surtout lorsqu'on voyage un peu "roots".

Bon dimanche.

PS : pas d'avis sur la zone Gobabeb ?

PB Pboulard Veteran ·2018-01-28

Jetty 1905, à la pointe de la jetée devant le Tug: incomparablement supérieur et moins fréquenté par les touristes.

Ne pas oublier de réserver suffisamment à l'avance. C'est le resto que j'avais choisi (en grande partie pour son emplacement 😎) et pas de place dispo pour nous 4 (demande de réservation début d'aprem pour le soir, au mois d'août). Je ne sais pas si il est plein de touristes ou de locaux 😉

mes carnets de voyages : https://www.myatlas.com/Lofwyra

Isap29 Globetrotter ·2018-01-31

Bonsoir Pascale,

Ne pas oublier de réserver suffisamment à l'avance

A priori, nous y passons en J7 pour y dîner en J9, j'espère que cela suffira ; au pire, je réserverai par internet en arrivant à Windhoek. La carte me plait bien 😉.

Isap29 Globetrotter ·2018-01-31

Bonsoir,

je me permet de relancer 3 questions sur la partie 1 :

Namib Naukluft park : lorsque l'on prend son/ses permits pour la nuit, doit-on spécifier le nom du camping et si oui, est-ce immuable ? Exemple : je prend le permis pour Mirabib et finalement, sur place, je préfère Homeb ; possible ? J'ai l'impression que c'est plus un "droit d'occupation" qu'un permis et qu'ils ne sont pas très fréquentés. Camping en pleine nature : Mirabib, Homeb, Aruvlei ou Vogelfederberg ? Qu'en pensez-vous ? Pour aller de Gobabeb => Walvis Bay, 2 possibilités : - continuer sur la D2186 et rejoindre la C14 vers Vogelfederberg Campsite (beaux rochers) ; - pousser jusqu'à Rooibank sur la D1983. Qu'en pensez-vous ?

Merci d'avance.

Voyajou Globetrotter ·2018-01-31

PS : pas d'avis sur la zone Gobabeb ?

Si, bien sûr. Lorsqu'on voyage dans ton sens, on retrouve là une certaine liberté, après le sud du parc. Au nord comme au sud de la C14, tu fais ce que tu veux... dans le respect des règles. Il n'y a jamais grand monde dans ces camps (entre octobre et avril, je n'y ai jamais croisé quiconque). Tu prends ton permis, tu vas, tu viens, et à la nuit tombante, lorsqu'il est certain que personne ne viendra, tu te poses là où tu te sens le mieux. Par exemple, il y a trois ou quatre ans, nous devions passer la nuit au Rock Arch Camp qui s'est révélé dégueulasse, poubelles saturées, détritus éparpillés. Nous avons rebroussé chemin et monté le camp dans le lit de la Tinkas River. Le lendemain, nulle trace de notre passage. Et j'aurais bien voulu voir un ranger me faire des remontrances.

Isap29 Globetrotter ·2018-02-01

Bonjour Jean-Luc,

Le lendemain, nulle trace de notre passage

C'est aussi notre cas, que ce soit en France ou à l'étranger 😎. Question d'éducation sans doute 😉.

à la nuit tombante, lorsqu'il est certain que personne ne viendra, tu te poses là où tu te sens le mieux.

OK, je prendrai donc les permis comme prévus et on avisera sur place.

Merci.

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I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6. If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too. Thanks! 🙂

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102529 2 months ago · Noirenvoyage

Tips for Zanzibar travel agency

Hi Any feedback on the agency Mon Guide Zanzibar?

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Albin1 3 months ago · Ravadendou

Tips for a safari in Tanzania from Zanzibar

Hi everyone,

We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland. Could you share any tips on: - the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar) - your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours - reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan

Thanks in advance!

Albin

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ReBidule27 3 months ago · Michel85200

Question about how Kruger Park works for accommodations and visits

Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park. From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park: - Independently with your own vehicle => Do you drive all day? - By booking with a professional => Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?

When it comes to accommodations, the options are: - Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional - Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive - Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me. Do you have any advice for accommodations?

To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works... Thanks to everyone for your help. Bidule 27

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Bibouns51 3 months ago · Titaille

Namibia: Exponential increase in park entry fees

Hey everyone! Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced? For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person. Thanks in advance!

Namibia raises park fees by 86 to 100 percent

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Johla 4 months ago · Attila

Traveling in South Africa: organized tour or DIY?

Hello,

I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature. 😊🦁

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Ellison76 4 months ago · Ericvds

1-Year Southern Africa Road Trip

Hi everyone,

We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa? As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult? We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :) We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend. See you on the road with Doddy

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Moumouminus 4 months ago · Michel85200

First draft of South Africa itinerary

Hi, I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa). After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:

D0 Arrival at JNB D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho

D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)

D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route) D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)

A few questions before refining this: - Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?

- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.

- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?

- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.

- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.

Thanks for your help

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Chiarafont 4 months ago · Puma2A

Masai Mara and Melting Pot Safari... So disappointed!

Hello everyone,

I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective. First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...). That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.

First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.

Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.

Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on. The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start... During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.) The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance. Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page). Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.

About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...

Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.

I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.

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VoyageF8 4 months ago

Trip Review - January 2026 - ETHIOPIA

Hi there,

Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.

Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.

Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).

Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:

– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water), – Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places, – Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly, – One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.

We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.

I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!

Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!

--- Hello,

Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.

Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments. Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).

Several points in the signed quote were not honored: – services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water), – hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments, – visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly, – one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.

A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment. To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.

This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.

Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone. Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!

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Pcecil 4 months ago

Safari agency recommendations

Hello, With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)

We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.

Thanks so much in advance!

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FamilleUS 5 months ago · AishaZanziba

Tanzania Safari Itinerary This Summer (?)

Hi there, I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.

So far, the itinerary looks like this: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar

On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?

To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?) Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 4: Full day in Tarangire Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar

Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome... Thanks

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Sawaddeekha 5 months ago · AishaZanziba

Where to stay quietly in Zanzibar for Christmas?

Hi everyone,

We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...

Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).

I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.

I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪

I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.

Thanks in advance! 😉

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Packeuse 5 months ago · EACitizen

Visiting Volcanoes National Park, gorillas, and Diane Fossey tomb without a vehicle

hi there

I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works. I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.

So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!! I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh… Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?

And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car?? If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??

If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali? Thanks so much for your help… Best regards

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Africatrip26 5 months ago · Christian17e

4x4 Itinerary in Southern Africa: Questions About Travel Times and Distances

Hey everyone,

I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.

I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.

My highlights in Zimbabwe would be: - Hwange - Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona) - Mana Pools - Harare - Gonarezhou - Great Zimbabwe

But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.

Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?

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Packeuse 5 months ago · Rotsaka

Planning a trip to Rwanda off the beaten path – logistical questions

hi there

I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work. I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...

I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts. So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.

For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):

Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza Ngenda Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas) Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?

So here are my first questions: -Is French still widely spoken? -Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info? -Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back? -Is it possible to go hiking solo? -Which are the best markets and what days are they held?

I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share. Looking forward to exchanging more!

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Goodite2315 5 months ago

Feedback on Kruger itinerary

Hi everyone,

I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.

Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind. I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.

Entering from the south: 14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie 17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza 20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara 22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants 25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati

Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere. 28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel. 29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.

What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?

I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).

Thanks in advance! Nicole Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025

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Hasard85 5 months ago · Voyajou

Where to see animals from a lodge in Southern Africa?

I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!

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Chryslys 5 months ago

Situation in Ethiopia for solo travel

Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026. I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc. Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous. But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious. So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it. Thanks in advance!

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Royerjm 6 months ago · Attila

4-Week Itinerary in South Africa

Hello, We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).

For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers. We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.

Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later) Pretoria – 2 days Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day Acornhoek – 1 day Letaba – 2 days Lobamba – 2 days Johannesburg – 1 day

Flight to Cape Town

Cape Town – 3 days Cape of Good Hope – 1 day Stellenbosch – 1 day Hermanus – 1 day Mossel Bay – 2 days Oudtshoorn Wilderness – 2 days Knysna Port Elizabeth – 2 days Addo Elephant Park

Flight back to Johannesburg

Johannesburg – 1 day

Return to Paris

Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions. We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.

We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.

I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.

Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!

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Un parcours assez classique en Namibie, mais en prenant son temps

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