J'avais promis de résumer mon voyage en Russie de ce printemps. Voilà qui va être enfin chose faite.
Je tiens d'abord à avoir une pensée pour toutes les personnes concernées par les attentats à Bruxelles. Je devais partir juste après et mon voyage a été complètement perturbé, l'aéroport ayant fermé. Ce qui suit est tout à fait futile par rapport à la brutale réalité de ce 22 mars 2016.
Arrivée en fin de soirée à St-Petersbourg. J’apprécie d’avoir demandé à l’hôtel de m’envoyer un taxi. (1200rb 15.7€). On traverse la ville en trombe !
Je suis enchantée de mon choix d’hôtel, 3mostA http://www.3mosta.com/fr.html très bien situé, proche de la rue des millionnaires, de l’Hermitage et de la cathédrale St-Sauveur sur le sang versé. Chambre seule 2500rb 33€ en cette saison. Seul problème, 26 ° dans la chambre.
J2 : après une bonne nuit, j’attaque la visite de St-P que je n’ai jamais cru voir. Je tiens d’ailleurs à signaler que l’hôtel ne m’a pas compté de frais malgré un changement de dates hors délais. Merci à eux.
Je commence par aller vers la perspective Nevski, les canaux sont gelés, le ciel est bleu et le soleil brille.
Je passe dans la belle épicerie Elisseiev.
Je visite ND de Kazan,
je voudrais prendre un chocolat chaud chez Singer mais personne ne vient prendre ma commande. Je repars et passe devant l’amirauté et le parc des décembristes.
Je vais réserver une place dans un théâtre pour voir Eugène Oneguine. J’ai demandé à l’hôtel si en disant « odin biljet Eugène Oneguine, pojalouista » ça allait.(1 billet svp) La dame a ri et m’a écrit la demande sur un papier en me précisant que c’était Evgeny. L’employée du théâtre était très sympa et j’ai eu ma place sans problème (1500rb 20€). Au retour, je visite St Isaac qui est fabuleux. On ne sait où regarder. On peut aussi monter au sommet pour la vue sur la ville.(400rb 5.2€ avec la grimpette, 250 sans) 3e plus grande cathédrale d’Europe après St-Pierre de Rome et St-Paul à Londres.
Je rentre à l’hôtel, mange un morceau au 5e étage dans le bar, très pratique pour avaler un repas à toute heure avant d’aller au spectacle à 19h, en trolley, le tram local (60rb).
J3 : aujourd’hui, j’ai décidé de visiter le palais de Tsarskoie Selo, appelé aussi Palais Catherine. Je prends le métro (35rb) jusqu’à Moskovskaia puis le bus 545 (44rb). Je demande au chauffeur de m’indiquer où descendre, je suis la seule touriste du bus. Malheureusement, celui-ci est tellement occupé au téléphone qu’il m’oublie. Je trouve le temps long. A un moment, je vois le panneau Pavlosk. (d’où la nécessité de lire le cyrillique) Je vais chez le chauffeur et me fais engueuler ! Je suis trop loin. Il faut reprendre un bus dans l’autre sens !
En fait, qd vous voyez une belle cathédrale blanche après +- 35 min de route, vous y êtes presque. Le palais est au fond de la route à droite au moment où le bus tourne à gauche devant un grand parc.
Du coup, j’arrive seulement à 12h15 mais ça vient d’ouvrir (400rb 5.2 €), contrairement au folder qui annonçait 10-18h. Il y a pas mal de touristes asiatiques et +- 30 min de file.
Après la visite, je me balade dans le parc qui a un certain charme malgré les statues encore couvertes et l’absence de fontaines.
De retour à St-P, je vais jusqu’au monastère Laure-Alexandre Nevski (150rb 2€).
A côté, il y a le père Lachaise local (250rb 3.2€). J’ai un peu de mal à lire le nom des personnalités sur les tombes, il y a bien un plan à l’entrée mais en cyrillique uniquement. Je découvre néanmoins Tchaikovski, Rimski Korsakoff, Dostoievski, Marius Petipa…
J4 : j’ai repéré hier sur internet le musée Fabergé (450rb + 200 pour l’audioguide 8.5€) qui vient d’élargir ses heures d’ouverture. Je me balade le long des canaux avant d’arriver au musée où la visite se fait obligatoirement en groupe.
Ca sera donc en russe, rien n’est prévu en anglais ce matin. Je n’exposerais pas un œuf Fabergé chez moi mais il faut reconnaître la finesse du travail.
Les salles du musée sont très belles.
Il y a aussi une expo temporaire sur Frida Kahlo que je visite également (450rb).
En sortant, je vais chez aeroflot pour acheter un vol pour Krasnoyarsk (Moscou-Krasnoyarsk 13300rb 175€ tant pis). Je comptais faire ce trajet en transsibérien mais comme je l’ai dit plus haut, mes projets ont été perturbés par les attentats et mon voyage raccourci de plusieurs jours. J’avoue aussi que les +- 70 h de train m’affolent un peu. Après les nombreuses heures de marche à St-P, ça doit donner des fourmis dans les jambes.
Je passe l’après-midi à marcher au hasard ou presque,
je passe au marché, à la place Sennaia, visite St Nicolas des Marins, passe devant le théâtre Marinski, sous les échafaudages et complet ce soir, et arrive au superbe palais Youssoupov (700rb 9.2€). C’est ici que Raspoutine a été assassiné (non sans mal). Le palais vaut la visite. Par contre, je n’ai pas visité les sous-sols où on a reconstitué l’assassinat de Raspoutine.
J5 : Depuis le temps que je passe devant (je la vois même depuis ma chambre), il est temps que je visite la cathédrale St-Sauveur (250rb 3.2€), la plus colorée de toutes. A l’intérieur aussi, c’est une profusion de couleurs. On se tord le cou pour admirer les détails.
Après, métro (quelques belles stations)
puis bus n°200 (70rb) pour aller au palais de Peterhof (600rb 7.9€). En été, il y a moyen d’y aller en bateau mais pas en cette saison. Interdiction de faire des photos dans le palais. Dans le parc, les ouvriers s’activent à tout remettre en état. La mer est…gelée, c’est impressionnant.
En fin de journée, je décide de visiter l’Hermitage (600rb 7.9€) qui est ouvert jusqu’à 21 h aujourd’hui. Jusqu’à présent, la météo est tellement belle que j’ai privilégié les balades en extérieur.
Je suis passée hier pour tenter d’acheter un billet pour aujourd’hui mais ils ne veulent pas. Dommage, car 1 h avant la fermeture, il n’y avait plus de file aux caisses.
Finalement, je ne fais la file que 10 min pour mon entrée, je visite les salles avec un vieux guide vert. Le nombre d’œuvres présentées est incroyable mais j’avoue n’être pas trop fan des peintures religieuses.
Par contre, j’aime beaucoup la partie arts décoratifs.
Je cherche les impressionnistes renseignés dans mon guide. Je m’étais fait un programme de ce que je voulais voir. Malheureusement, les œuvres ont changé de salle et mon programme est mis à mal ! Je demande à une gardienne, les impressionnistes sont dans le bâtiment de l’autre côté de la place ! Je la traverse au sprint sans admirer les lumières du soir.
Finalement, je me fais virer du musée 10 min avant sa fermeture mais l’option du soir était un très bon choix, j’ai eu le privilège d’être quasi seule dans les salles avec Matisse, Van Gogh, Renoir, Signac…
Je n’ose imaginer la foule en été. C’est une des raisons pour lesquelles j’ai choisi de voyager hors saison à la grande surprise de mes amis qui me prennent pour une dingue. La Russie au printemps, bbrrrr. J’ai en moyenne 5° en journée et le soleil réchauffe les os.
Balade by night dans les environs.
J6 : j’ai choisi de rester 1 journée supplémentaire à St-P mais ça commence mal. Je vais à pied au musée Stieglitz… qui est réservé uniquement aux groupes ??? Je me dirige vers le parc Tauride…qui est fermé ! Le but de la promenade est le monastère Smolny…qui est sous les échafaudages ! Une réussite, ce matin. En plus, il fait gris et il bruine.
De là, je prends le bus K76 (40rb)(privé mais on ne voit pas la différence, il coûte juste un peu plus cher et il y a K devant le n° du bus). Je montre mon plan au chauffeur pour aller de l’autre côté de la Neva à la forteresse St Pierre et Paul. A un moment, le bus s’arrête net et tout le monde parle et me fait des signes. En fait, le chauffeur a cru que je voulais descendre dans le parc, beaucoup plus tôt et me crie que je suis arrivée. Un jeune homme me traduit ce qui se passe en anglais. Je m’aperçois par la suite qu’il lisait un bouquin en français.
J’achète le billet combiné (450rb 5.9€) à la forteresse qui permet en plus de l’église de visiter la maison du commandant, la prison ainsi qu’un petit musée d’aéronautique.
L’église contient les tombes des tsars, de Pierre le Grand en particulier (pas que des qualités, cet homme-là mais il a quand même fondé une bien belle ville) ainsi que les restes des derniers Romanov. Dans la maison du commandant est reconstituée l’histoire de la ville.
Derrière la forteresse, il y a une petite plage mais pas question de mettre un orteil dans l’eau !
Finalement, la bruine donne un certain charme au paysage.
En fin de journée, je fais comme hier, je visite un musée aux ouvertures tardives, le musée russe cette fois (450rb 5.9€). Des peintres qu’on connaît moins mais aussi des figurines, des icones, des meubles… Je n’ai jamais autant de chefs d’œuvre que ces derniers jours.
J’ai gardé ma chambre jusqu’au soir pour le prix d’une demi-nuit car je prends le train « flèche rouge» à minuit vers Moscou, le Krasnaia Strela (4832 rb 63€ acheté la veille sur internet, le prix dépend du moment où on achète le billet).
Il y a des trains rapides qui font le trajet en 4 h mais celui-ci est très prisé par les Russes car il fait économiser une nuit d’hôtel, il arrive vers 8h à Moscou. Je me repose un peu avant de me diriger vers la gare. Le même chauffeur de taxi que le premier jour m’emmène à la gare. En fait, il s’agit de voitures privées qui font office de taxi. Le chauffeur a la gentillesse de m’accompagner dans la gare et de m’indiquer où je dois passer. Sinon, j’aurais eu plus de mal à trouver ce train.
J’ai dû mal comprendre car je croyais que le souper était inclus et … je fais ceinture. La responsable vient me demander ce que je veux…pour le pt déj. Je ne pourrais pas le manger ce soir ? Moi qui ne déjeune pas.
Je me suis offert la 1ere classe, je veux dormir car je n’ai que 3 jours à Moscou. Le lit est préparé, il n’y a qu’à rabattre la couchette. C’est un peu ferme mais ça va. En première, il n’y a que 2 couchettes par compartiment et je suis seule dans le mien (j’avais repéré hier qu’il y avait pas mal de places libres en 1ere). C’est pratique, on peut s’enfermer, pas de crainte de vol.
Bye, bye Saint-Pétersbourg, j'ai adoré cette ville. Et je suis contente d'y avoir consacré 5 jours pleins, c'est un minimum. J'espère vous avoir donné envie d'y aller ou le goût d'y retourner.
J7 : arrivée vers 8 h à Moscou, le train est à l’heure. Ma chambre n’est pas prête, je m’en doutais puisque l’hôtel affichait complet. L’hôtel est à côté d’une station de métro mais évidemment je sors à l’autre bout du parc et ai beaucoup de mal à trouver. Je laisse ma valise et pars à pied vers la place rouge et le Kremlin. Malheureusement, il pleut toujours. J’arrive au Kremlin par l’entrée des fournisseurs et le garde m’explique que l’entrée est de l’autre côté. Dommage qu’il me montre le mauvais côté pour faire le tour, je longe une route très encombrée de véhicules. Et le mur en partie sous échafaudages.
Je me mets dans la longue file de gens qui patientent de l’autre côté avant de m’apercevoir qu’ils ont l’air d’avoir un billet. En fait, je suis dans la file des gens qui attendent pour entrer au palais des armures !
Je finis par trouver les guichets où se vendent les tickets et visite le Kremlin (500rb 6.5€). Pas de photos dans les églises et les gardes veillent au grain. Dans chaque église, un plan détaillé à l’entrée sous forme de feuillet à emporter, dans différentes langues.
Passage à la Place Rouge et retour à l’hôtel Maroseyka 2/15 (4000rb 52.5€), à 10 min de la place rouge. Ma chambre est à nouveau surchauffée, une caractéristique commune à tous les hôtels que j’ai fréquentés en Russie et ici, il est carrément impossible de régler le chauffage. D’après ce que j’ai compris, ils paient un forfait pour le chauffage qui est fourni par la ville en fonction des m2.
Je vais manger au BM, taverne juste sous l’hôtel puis balade by night vers le Bolchoï.
J8 : je commence par St-Basile (350rb 4.6€) sur la Place Rouge. Curieusement, à l’intérieur, plein de petites pièces. A l’étage, le groupe Doros chante a capella pour vendre ses cd, mes poils se dressent, l’acoustique est parfaite.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRjdrOBNHTQ
Après, je vais au mausolée de Lénine. Très peu de monde mais beaucoup de recueillement. A l'arrière du mausolée, les statues d'autres dirigeants célèbres. Ca me rappelle mes cours d'histoire à l'école.
Puis je pars vers la cathédrale du Christ-Sauveur. Staline l’a fait détruire et elle est toute récente puisque sa reconstruction a débuté vers 1995. Ses dômes dorés se voient de loin.
Comme je suis dans le coin, je vais au musée Pouchkine (500rb 6.5€), mauvais plan, 45 min de file dans le froid et sous la pluie. A l’intérieur, c’est tellement grand qu’on ne se marche pas sur les pieds. Ca part dans toutes les directions : plâtres de statues de Michel-Ange, sarcophages, affiches, Vénus de Milo, victoire de Samothrace, icônes, peintures… et même la copie de la châsse de Sainte-Gertrude de Nivelles dont l’original a brûlé en 1940. Mes impressionnistes ont à nouveau disparu : en fait, ils sont dans un autre bâtiment (300rb 3.9€).
Retour vers l’hôtel, arrêt en chemin pour un chocolat chaud dans un Schokolaskaia. On se réchauffe comme on peut. Ceux qui aiment les pâtisseries seront servis.
J9 : visite du monastère de Novodievitchi, un peu excentré. Je paie 400rb pour l’entrée (300rb + 100 pour photographier). En fait, le monastère est gratuit mais c’est le musée qu’il faut payer. Le prix est totalement disproportionné par rapport aux 600rb de l’Hermitage mais, bon, ça donnera du boulot aux 2 charmantes babouchkas qui veillent sur les œuvres. L’église principale est fermée et le monastère sous échafaudages (décidément…). Quelques tombes célèbres et je me balade au hasard.
Après, je m’offre une séance de métro juste pour m’arrêter dans quelques stations superbes, (principalement sur la ligne circulaire) un bon plan pour un jour gris.
La météo s’améliore et je décide de faire la croisière de 2h30 sur la Moscova (900 rb 11.8€). Pour info, elle a lieu toute l’année même s’il gèle. A peine dans le bateau, on est installé à table. La serveuse semble très déçue que je ne veuille rien manger. Il est 15h mais ça ne décourage pas les autres convives qui se ruent sur les menus. Très agréable, cette croisière. On voit sous un autre angle les bâtiments déjà visités. Au chaud et au sec !
Beaucoup d'embouteillages à Moscou, comme on le voit ici.
Le soir, je mange au Teremok : une chaîne de fast-food locale où on sert principalement des soupes et des crêpes salées et sucrées. C’est bon et vraiment pas cher. A essayer au moins une fois.
En soirée, je récupère ma valise à l'hôtel et file à l’aéroport via l’aeroexpress : 35 min de train depuis le métro Bellorusski jusqu’à Sheremetyevo (470rb, 6 € ou même 420rb si vous achetez le ticket sur internet). J'ai mon vol de nuit pour Krasnoyarsk, à moi la Sibérie.
Je continue
J10 : 4 h de vol jusqu’à Krasnoyarsk mais aussi 4 h de décalage horaire, je prends un bus vers le centre, descends à ce que je crois être la gare et me perds avec la valise. Je demande mon chemin à un jeune qui doit regretter de ne pas avoir mieux écouté son prof d’anglais. En lui montrant mon hôtel sur le plan, il trouve mon n° bus grâce à son smartphone. L’hôtel est impossible à trouver, il s’agit d’un « mini-hôtel », en réalité un appartement transformé en hôtel, 3 chambres seulement et donc bien sûr personne sur place. L’entrée se fait par une cour intérieure et une porte qui n’inspire pas confiance ! Je vais prendre une boisson dans un resto et leur demande de téléphoner au manager. La « manageuse » qui ne parle que russe vient me récupérer au resto. La chambre est grande et lumineuse. Par contre, la toilette et le lavabo sont dans une autre pièce à partager avec les autres chambres (week end mini hotel 1800rb 23.6€) . Je me balade un peu dans les environs, j’espère voir un office du tourisme car je voudrais voir les Stolby : un parc national avec des rochers spéciaux. Je ne trouve rien et contacte Anatoliy par mail pour organiser la journée demain. www.sibtourguide.com
J11 : Je ferai les Stolby ainsi que l’autre attraction du coin : l’énorme barrage de Divnogorsk à 40 km. L’excursion est chère (10000rb 131€) mais c’est ma seule option et c'est quand même pour cela que j'ai voulu venir ici. J’ai lu que le télésiège est fermé le lundi. C’est pourquoi, j’ai attendu mardi mais Anatoliy m’explique qu’on le prendra … pour descendre !!! Ce n’est pas comme ça que je voyais les choses ; -( . Il se gare et nous partons par un petit chemin que je n’aurais jamais pris seule. Bref, on grimpe dans la forêt encore un peu enneigée.
Il m’explique que la saison des tiques commence et qu’il ne faut pas s’éloigner des chemins, elles transmettent une encéphalite (pensez à vous faire vacciner si vous y allez à partir de mai). Chouette rando. On arrive au TakMak, un des rochers principaux. En fait, il n’y a qu’une infime partie des Stolby qui est accessible au public.
Arrivés au télésiège, celui-ci vient de tomber en panne, on attend un peu, il y a une motoneige qui fait des allers-retours mais c’est à pied qu’il faut descendre la piste de ski. Très casse-gueule comme descente : au milieu, c’est verglacé (il n’y a d’ailleurs aucun skieur) et sur le côté, je m’enfonce dans la neige jusqu’à mi cuisse. Anatoliy m’aide et nous descendons comme un vieux couple, je ne le lâche pas ! Il doit avoir des crampons sous les semelles pour ne pas glisser.
Pour ceux qui veulent faire les Stolby en individuel : depuis Krasnoyarsk, le bus 37 vous amène au pied des télésièges, celui du milieu est autorisé aux non-skieurs. Sinon, le bus 50 vous amène jusqu’à l’entrée du parc mais il faut encore marcher 7 km jusqu’aux rochers intéressants.
De là, direction le barrage, Anatoliy me donne plein d’infos et me montre des photos explicatives, il y a aussi un plan incliné pour les bateaux. Je lui explique qu’on a la même chose en Belgique, à Ronquière mais il semble dubitatif !
Ce barrage est représenté sur les billets de 10 rb (il y a surtout des pièces de 10 rb mais parfois on reçoit encore un billet), raison pour laquelle il y a une excursion appelée « tour de 10 rb ». Curieusement, il y a des oiseaux marins qui tournent au dessus de moi. Pourtant, la mer est loin ! Depuis l’existence du barrage, l’Ienissei ne gèle plus et ça perturbe l’écosystème. C’est actuellement le 10e barrage le plus puissant au monde mais, lors de sa construction en 1972, c’était le 2e.
J12 : le grand jour du transsibérien est arrivé. J’ai essayé de réserver mon billet en 3e classe (platskart) hier soir sur internet mais ma banque refuse le paiement. J’abandonne après quelques tentatives. Ce matin, je vois qu’il reste 1 seule place. Je tente ma chance à un 1er guichet à la gare. Quand ça va être mon tour, le guichet ferme : 30 min de pause ! Toujours vérifier les périodes de pause indiquées sur le mur avant de choisir un guichet ! La foule derrière moi se déplace vers un autre guichet. Lorsque c’est mon tour, je montre ma tablette avec le train que je voudrais : la guichetière parlemente, m’engueule, je ne comprends rien, puis elle prend son sac et disparaît par l’arrière et ferme à clé ! Ca dure un moment. Je n’ose plus me retourner mais la foule derrière moi s’est à nouveau déplacée. La dame revient enfin avec un papier imprimé, je comprendrai beaucoup plus tard qu’il s’agit de mes différentes tentatives pour acheter la place par internet. Mais je voulais la lui payer cash cette place !!!
Elle m’envoie balader. Le temps passe et le train va bientôt arriver, sans compter que quelqu’un d’autre pourrait acheter cette place. Une autre employée qui a vu le manège me montre chez qui aller. La nouvelle employée ne parle toujours pas anglais mais est sympa et comprend ce que je veux, elle m’emmène à un guichet où je peux enfin acheter mon billet. Mon sésame en poche, je me précipite vers les quais.
Je voulais une place en bas car il n’y a pas d’échelle pour grimper et je n’ai plus la souplesse d’un singe. Je suis donc … à côté des toilettes, dans un des modèles de trains les plus anciens. Le wagon est plein mais je suis la seule touriste.
Mon voisin du haut qui est monté en même temps que moi (le train vient de Moscou) va aussi à Irkoutsk, il se présente comme « kinésiologue » mais aussi étudiant. Il baragouine quelques mots d’anglais. En nous entendant, un autre jeune arrive en disant qu’il parle anglais mais bon, c’est pas terrible. Celui-là est psychologue et informaticien. Ils ont tous 2 métiers ?
Curieusement, ils s’appellent tous les 2 Alexander, Sacha pour les intimes.
Heureusement, Google translate va nous aider. C’est lent mais on a 18h de route devant nous. On s'installe le plus confortablement possible, tongues, jogging, thé...
Je montre les photos de chez moi et surtout de mon chien qui ressemble à ceux du cynologue, maître-chien à la police. Ben oui, moi qui pensais d’abord qu’un kinésiologue pratiquait une sorte de médecine parallèle !!! On partage nos repas, je distribue mes bonbons belges et mes gaufres et ils m’offrent du poulet et une sorte de feuille de framboises séchées.
2 ouvriers arrivent par la suite à côté de nous, totalement éméchés. L’un des 2 doit avoir à peine 25 à 30 ans et ferait la fortune d'un dentiste. Il ne quitte pas sa bouteille d’eau. De l'eau ?
Pour la nuit, mes compagnons m’expliquent tous les 2 qu’il y a des risques de vol. Prudence donc. Mon sac avec mon appareil photo est planqué sous le siège et bloqué par ma valise que j’ai aussi poussée sous le siège avec difficulté. Je ne vois pas comment on pourrait me voler sans que je ne m’en rende compte. La nuit n’est pas terrible, la couchette est dure, je n’arrive pas à m’étendre car je bute contre la paroi et il y a un va-et-vient vers les toilettes. Ce qui est marrant, c'est qu'on n'entend ronfler les gens qu'aux moments des arrêts en gare, sinon le bruit du train masque tout le reste.
J13 : Au matin, la provodnista, la dame qui s’occupe de mon wagon, ferme toujours les toilettes avant l’arrivée en gare mais elle ne rouvre pas car il y a 2 gares en 45 min. Zut alors.
A Irkoutsk, Sacha n°1, le policier, insiste pour m'accompagner à la gare routière. Je voudrais aller directement sur l’île d'Olkhon au lac Baïkal et ça va être tout juste pour attraper le bus. A la gare, un chauffeur de taxi me dit qu’il n’y a pas de bus mais qu'il peut m'emmener. Donc, je me méfie mais l’employée me dit la même chose, là je m’inquiète mais finalement, le bus se trouve en dehors de la gare. 4h de bus (avec une pause pipi de 15 min très, très appréciée) sur une route de plus en plus mauvaise et un hydroglisseur plus tard, j'arrive sur l'île.
Il reste encore 1 h de bus avant d'arriver au village de Khuzir.
Le 1er hôtel que j’avais choisi n’a jamais répondu aux mails mais il est complet. La dame me claque presque la porte au nez, accueil très différent de celui signalé sur tripadvisor. Ds le 2e, chez Nikita, heureusement, il reste des chambres, mais il ne m'a pas répondu non plus. Ou alors c'est internet qui passe mal. Mes chaussures sont toujours mouillées depuis Krasnoyarsk. J'apprécie le chauffage.
Je pars à la découverte du village et surtout de la beauté du lac, encore gelé en ce début avril. Je suis au paradis blanc. Une forme de méditation m'envahit. J’ai les larmes aux yeux, je ne sais plus si c’est le vent, la beauté du paysage ou la pensée des récents attentats qui ont failli annuler mon voyage.
J’espérais 2 choses pour ce voyage hors saison : du ciel bleu pour mes photos de Saint-Petersbourg et voir le lac Baïkal gelé, j’ai été gâtée.
Je croise un couple de Thaïlandais qui ne supportait plus la chaleur de Bangkok. Je suis étonnée qu’ils aient pu trouver de grosses doudounes dans leur pays. Repas du soir prévu à l’hôtel, avec le poisson du lac : l’omoul.
J14 : Le lendemain, pas vraiment eu le choix, je partage une excursion avec un couple pékinois vers le sud de l’île (1500rb 20€), eux repartiront en fin de journée vers le continent. La demoiselle est très jolie, en poncho et mini-jupe, pas très adaptés à la situation alors que moi, je mets une couche supplémentaire à chaque arrêt photo. J’aurais voulu aller vers le nord qui, paraît-il, est plus beau mais je suis seule et devrais payer le prix plein (4500rb).
On en prend plein les mirettes, on marche sur le lac gelé, l’une court avec beaucoup d’élégance pendant que les 2 autres essaient juste de ne pas se casser la figure, on voit des chevaux, on mange même un repas chaud ds la voiture.
Ma voisine, qui ne doute de rien, demande où sont les toilettes, ce qui fait hurler de rire le chauffeur qui répond en russe d’un grand geste. Ca y est, je comprends le russe, « partout ».
Je les accompagne vers l’hydroglisseur. En été, il y a un ferry qui est pour le moment complètement pris dans la glace. En hiver, on peut rouler en voiture sur le lac mais en cette saison, ça lâche par endroits. La seule solution est l’hydroglisseur. Il semble d’ailleurs y avoir un cimetière de voitures au fond du lac.
Après cette journée de rêve, il est temps de préparer les bagages pour le retour. J’aurais voulu prendre le circumbaikal, un train qui longe le lac mais il n’y en aurait pas en cette saison. J’ai d’abord demandé à l’hôtel, ils m’ont dit qu’ils allaient se renseigner. Quand je suis retournée, ils m’ont dit qu’ils ne vendaient pas cette prestation et m’ont laissée tomber. J’ai quand même un peu l’impression que ce qui importe à l’hôtel, c’est l’argent. Je ne les trouve pas trop sympas, les proprios qui ne disent jamais bonjour. Par contre, leur personnel est très agréable. (1800rb avec le repas du soir et pt déj 23.6€) + 200rb pour un « visa » ? En quittant l’hôtel à Saint-P, j’ai reçu gratuitement un document pour montrer à la douane. Ici, ils me disent que c’est obligatoire à chaque changement de région. On ne me réclamera jamais ces documents. Peut-être que les douaniers ont pu suivre mon trajet via un encodage des hôtels ?
J15 : Il est temps de quitter le lac.
Retour à Irkoutsk par le même chemin qu’à l’aller. J'avais oublié de donner les prix: 850rb (11.1€) au lieu de 800 à l’aller, payés directement à l’hôtel. On ne repaie pas les 350rb pour l’hydroglisseur payés à l'aller, le prix était pour l'aller-retour. On n'a pourtant pas fort envie de faire ce trajet retour.
Je papote avec un jeune Hollandais qui a fait du mountain bike sur le lac.
Je loge à nouveau dans un appart avec plusieurs chambres, au milieu d’un ensemble d’immeubles. Mini hotel London, joliment décoré, au total look british (1890rb 25 €). Retour à la civilisation. Le choc est rude.
J16 : Je pars à la découverte de Irkoutsk, l’office du tourisme fait beaucoup d’efforts mais j’ai du mal à apprécier, après Saint-P et Moscou. Je suis la « green line », un marquage au sol qui permet de découvrir les principaux sites de la ville.
J'ai oublié de mettre une carte de mon voyage vers le lac.
Impossible effectivement de faire le circumbaikal. Il semble y avoir un train mais il part de l’autre côté du fleuve et les horaires de traversée ne sont pas compatibles. Qu’à cela ne tienne, je vais aller au musée ethnographique Taltsy à 50 km (150rb 2€). La femme de ménage est justement là. J’ai trouvé le site du musée en russe uniquement. Je lui montre ma tablette pour qu’elle vérifie si c’est ouvert. Elle regarde à peine, me dit que oui. En fait, je comprendrai plus tard qu’elle y travaille aussi et qu’elle connaît les horaires par coeur. Je lui demande quel bus je dois prendre. Elle tente de me parler russe puis a l’idée géniale d’appeler son gamin de 8 ans qui joue dans la cuisine. Plus rapide que Lucky Luke, il m’installe un clavier cyrillique sur ma tablette et la dame, via google translate, me propose une excursion d’une journée en voiture jusqu’au musée puis jusqu’à Listvianka au bord du lac Baïkal « pour manger de l’omoul ».
Voici où se situe Listvianka par rapport à l'ïle d'Olkhon :
Elle téléphone à une amie pour fixer un prix (2500rb 32.8€). J’accepte sa proposition et le lendemain sa copine arrive, elle-même avec une amie.
D'habitude, je me contente de lire sans jamais intervenir.
Mais ici, je ne pouvais pas me taire!
J'ai toujours rêvé de la Russie et ton récit n'a fait que ravivé la flamme :)
Tes photos sont très belles et j'aime tellement la couleur des bâtiments qui tranchent avec le climat austère de la Russie. Par contre, je ne me risquerais pas à voyager en solo. Si je vais un jour en Russie, je prendrais un guide.
D'ailleurs pourquoi ce choix de partir sans guide? Chose assez compliquée puisque pas beaucoup de monde parle l'anglais et avec l'alphabet cyrillique, il parait que c'est assez dur?
Aaahh, merci. Je finissais par me demander si quelqu'un me lisait !
Pour ce qui est du voyage en solo, le 1er argument est...bassement matériel ! J'ai une amie qui a été 1 semaine à Saint-Pétersbourg peu de temps après moi. Elles sont parties à 2, tout organisé pour elles depuis Bruxelles. Un taxi et une guide tous les jours là-bas, un bel hôtel (trop éloigné à mon goût). Je ne connais pas le tarif mais à mon avis, ça a dû "coûter bonbon". Moi, du moment que l'hôtel est propre et bien situé, ça me suffit. Evidemment, elles ont eu plus d'infos et ont pu poser des questions mais elles n'ont pas subi le contact rapproché de la foule du métro et des odeurs mâles ;-). Avis à ceux qui pourraient lire de travers, je n'ai pas dit que les Russes sentent mauvais, je blague.
Cela permet aussi de modifier son séjour en fonction des événements (coup de cœur, fête locale, rencontre, ...ou tourista)
Autre argument, mon type de voyage nécessite beaucoup de préparation en amont, nettement plus facile depuis internet. Eh oui, je voyageais déjà dans les années 80 où les infos se trouvaient seulement dans les guides papiers. Et je trouve que cette préparation fait déjà partie du voyage. Je peux comprendre qu'on n'ait pas le temps. Je me souviens beaucoup mieux de mes voyages en individuel qu'en organisé. Même des années plus tard, je peux encore décrire le trajet.
Je me souviens d'un ami qui m'expliquait qu'il allait partir en Turquie en voyage organisé. Quand je lui ai demandé son parcours, il croyait aller à Sousse et Monastir. J'en suis restée bouche bée.
Et puis, même en voyageant seul, on rencontre des gens dans les guesthouses, les bus, les taxis collectifs, les restos. Plus facilement seul que si on est à 2, d'ailleurs.
Quand au cyrillique, j'y reviendrai plus loin.
Allez, suite et fin de mon voyage :
J17 : Le musée Taltsy (150rb) est assez grand, c'est une reconstitution d'anciennes maisons, église, école.. mais certains bâtiments sont fermés. On y passe +- 2h (un resto sur place pour les affamés).
Et me voilà revenue au lac, à un autre endroit, à Listvianka. La petite ville est agréable, le rocher du Chaman affleure à l’entrée. On voit bien la limite entre la rivière qui ne gèle pas et le lac. Ca fait comme des vagues gelées, on ressent la pression de la glace, ça craque, ça vit.
Ma guide me fait comprendre qu’on peut aller nager. J’ai sans doute mal compris. Mais non, sa copine se déshabille discrètement et entre dans la rivière pour y nager quelques minutes. Y en a qui n’ont pas froid aux yeux.
Bien belle journée. Après ça, le pire de la journée, outre de faire la valise, aura été de retrouver un clavier dans notre alphabet. J’ai passé la soirée à chercher comment le gamin avait fait.
Dernier jour : la même conductrice a proposé de m’emmener en voiture à l’aéroport. L’arrêt de bus n’est pas loin mais c’est à peine plus cher (60rb). Même à cette heure très matinale, elle reçoit plusieurs coups de fil et sms. Elle roule vissée à son portable, comme hier.
J’ai un vol très tôt vers Moscou où j’ai choisi de passer encore quelques heures avant de reprendre un vol en soirée vers Bruxelles où l’aéroport a rouvert. Je profite de la météo estivale (14°) à Moscou pour refaire les photos des endroits où il pleuvait.
Je veux aussi aller au musée des armures, aux horaires stricts mais quand j’arrive, je veux payer par carte bancaire. Il leur faut du cash et je ne compte plus rechanger de l’argent. Ca me fera une raison supplémentaire pour retourner en Russie.
J’ai dû annuler Souzdal, faute de temps, et là aussi, je tiens à signaler que l’hôtel Svetly Terem m’a gentiment remboursée sans frais alors que j’étais hors délais pour annuler.
Bye, bye la Russie mais certainement à une prochaine fois.
Le taux de change était +- de 76.2 roubles pour 1 € 100rb = 1.31€
J’ai tout organisé moi-même en réservant les hôtels via des sites comme booking ou hotels.com.
Les gens parlent peu anglais, Google translate a servi. Il peut être utile d’avoir une connexion internet en continu. Moi, je profitais du wifi des hôtels ou des restos mais le Hollandais que j’ai rencontré avait acheté pour quelques euros une carte à l’aéroport qui lui donnait une connexion pendant 1 mois. En tout cas, il y a plein de vendeurs de téléphonie à l’aéroport, renseignez-vous.
Je pense qu’en voyageant sans guide, il est utile et presque indispensable de lire l’alphabet cyrillique, ne fut-ce que pour prendre le métro ou reconnaître le nom d’une rue. Mais j’ai voyagé seule au Japon ou en Corée sans lire ces langues et j’en suis revenue…enchantée.
Ce n’est quand même pas insurmontable : 33 lettres en tout dont certaines qui sont les mêmes qu’en français et d’autres, les mêmes qu’en grec. Voici un lien, par exemple.
http://www.lexilogos.com/clavier/russkij.htm
Après ça, il reste à aller en Bulgarie ou en Macédoine (j’en reviens) pour rentabiliser l’effort. Mais, même si on oublie une ou 2 lettres du mot, ça suffit. En plus, on s’aperçoit alors qu’on comprend le mot. Ex : « gastronom » = épicerie, « kassa » = caisse, « bank », « musej », « tualet »= vous avez deviné…
Commençons par les basiques : 3 lettres
Pour le transsibérien et le trajet St-P Moscou : j’ai choisi les trains via le site http://pass.rzd.ru/main-pass/public/en , ceux marqués « 3P » peuvent être achetés en ligne. Il faut d’abord créer un compte. La 2e classe s’appelle « kupé », la 3e « platskart ». En 3e, le wagon est ouvert. C’est là qu’on rencontre les Russes. Il vaut mieux éviter les places 37 à 54, moins confortables. En 2e, ce sont des compartiments de 4. Ce site est le site officiel et ne fait payer aucun supplément. ATTENTION, pour les horaires, tous les trains sont indiqués à l’heure de Moscou !!!! Ne pas oublier de rajouter le nombre d’heures du décalage horaire (+4h pour Krasnoyarsk, +5h pour Irkoutsk par exemple). Sinon, vous allez croire que vous arrivez à 22h et la réalité de 3h du mat vous rattrapera brutalement. Moi, j’avais choisi de ne pas arriver au milieu de la nuit.
J’ai l’impression d’avoir fait 2 voyages en 1. Une 1ere partie culturelle, avec St-P et Moscou et une 2e partie nature avec la Sibérie. Compter au moins 5 j pour St-P, la ville est magnifique, il y a plein de musées et de visites intéressantes. J'y ai passé 5 jours pleins et je n'ai pas arrêté de marcher. 1 semaine, c'est mieux. Même quand on n’est pas fan des musées.
Dans les musées, il est obligatoire de laisser manteau et sac à dos au vestiaire. C’est gardé et gratuit. J’ai acheté mes entrées aux guichets mais je pense qu’en été, ça vaut le coup d’acheter les entrées sur le net (cf explications bien faites sur le site russiable) pour gagner du temps. Déjà qu'on fait la queue au vestiaire. A l’Hermitage, il y a aussi des bornes de paiement dans la cour. Je conseille d’y programmer les œuvres qu’on veut voir. Autre option, aller une 1ere fois pour l’ambiance et pour les murs, et une 2e pour les œuvres elles-mêmes. Il y a des billets combinés pour 2 jours.
Alors ? Ca progresse, l'apprentissage du cyrillique ?
Encore quelques exercices :
Facile :
Plus difficile mais on a les tableaux :
Encore plus difficile :
Plus corsé :
Ile de beauté.
A remarquer qu'on parle russe sans le savoir : parfmrs cosmtk. Comme je l'expliquais, même si on paume quelques lettres, on devine de quoi il s'agit.
Révolutionnaire :
Robespierre
Rassurez-vous, parfois on a du bol :
Quoique... Félicette semble être le seul chat envoyé dans l'espace (mais elle est revenue vivante)
Je tiens d'abord à vous féliciter pour cet excellent reportage ... où j'ai rêvé durant toute la lecture ! Les photos et les commentaires sont au top ... et vous n'avez fait que confirmer mon désir de voir un jour St Petersbourg et Moscou !
Au risque de me répéter, vos photos sont magnifiques. Merci encore pour votre partage.
Bons voyages à venir et bon courage à nos amis Belges !
" Si vous avez peur de l'aventure, essayez la routine, elle est mortelle! " Paolo Coelho
Merci beaucoup pour ce très beau récit et les belles photos .
Nous étions à St Pet en mars ainsi qu'en Carélie . Ce voyage en Russie m'a ouvert un monde ...si proche et si méconnu. Je rêve de retourner en Russie , revoir encore les musées extraordinaires surtout le musée russe et aller à Moscou , le transsibérien et le lac Baikal en fin d'hiver .
Amicalement.
Chris
Merci Sab, merci Christine pour vos encouragements.
C'est vrai que ça prend du temps d'écrire tout ça et de sélectionner les photos. Quand tout ne s'efface pas au dernier moment si je n'ai pas été assez rapide😮. (un appel aux responsables de VF)
Mais je profite des blogs et des infos des autres pour préparer mes voyages. Alors, autant rendre la pareille. J'essaie aussi d'y mettre des infos pratiques ainsi que des prix récents, ce qui peut être utile, particulièrement pour les petits budgets.
Je me suis améliorée par rapport à mon 1er compte-rendu sur VF qui n'avait aucune photo et était un long texte, sans interruption. 🤪
Les photos rendent la lecture plus agréable et les plans sont utiles quand on ne connaît pas encore la géographie du pays.
Rêvez bien de la Russie et j'espère que ce rêve deviendra réalité dans un avenir proche.
Annick
J'ai beau connaître certains lieux par coeur, c'est toujours agréable de les revisiter par les yeux de quelqu'un d'autre. Merci pour ce beau récit et ces belles photos. Vous m'avez donné envie d'aller au Baikal en hiver.
Par contre je n'ai pas saisi la beauté du voyage sur un seul point: C'est Stolby; pouvez vous développer?
Comme je l'ai dit au début, j'avais l'intention de "faire" le transsibérien avec quelques arrêts en cours de route, en commençant de Vladimir à 2 h de Moscou vers Souzdal. J'avais imaginé plusieurs arrêts possibles en chemin : Kazan, Iekatarinbourg, Novossibirsk et/ou Krasnoyarsk. Avant d'arriver à Irkoutsk. Je comptais décider sur place en fonction de la météo, de mes envies et des opportunités.
Le voyage a été écourté. Et j'ai pris le problème à l'envers : je ne voulais pas arriver à Irkoutsk au milieu de la nuit et je ne pouvais plus me permettre qu'un seul arrêt, faute de temps. Krasnoyarsk s'y prêtait. Je voulais privilégier la nature, après les églises et les musées de St-P et Moscou. Les Stolby sont un parc national dont les rochers sont particuliers, en forme de colonnes pour certains. Dans la partie que j'ai visitée, les rochers sont plus arrondis. Il y a moyen d'y faire de plus longues randonnées que ce que j'ai fait. J'ai combiné 2 excursions en 1 journée, avec le barrage. Il pleuvait, ce qui rend les photos un peu ternes. Néanmoins, c'était une journée intéressante. Maintenant, évidemment, il n'y a pas à hésiter s'il faut choisir entre le lac Baïkal et Olkhon ou les Stolby.
Par contre, sur Google, en tapant "stolby national park", il y a plein de photos qui donnent envie d'y aller. Le lien est trop long pour que je puisse le mettre.
Bonjour Annick,
N'as-tu pas été tentée de pousser jusqu'en Mongolie ? J'ai moi-même très envie de prendre le Transsibérien de Moscou à Vladivostok malgré les (7 ?) jours de voyage. Il va sans dire que je compte effectuer des étapes et des détours... J'ai également l'habitude des voyages solo et je partage ton avis : la rencontre des populations est plus facile quand on est seul.
Habituellement, je pratique le couchsurfing. Le conseillerais-tu en Russie ?
En tout cas bravo pour ton récit. Il a un peu plus ancré ma conviction de tracer cette route moi-aussi.
Non, pas la Mongolie qui mérite plus de temps que ce que je n'avais. Ce sera pour un autre voyage.
Plutôt Vladivostok alors. Autant rentabiliser le visa russe et il y a encore tellement de choses à voir en Russie. Mes dates n'étaient pas extensibles. Sinon, j'aurais prolongé mon séjour sur Olkhon, j'aurais poussé jusqu'à Ulan-Oude en Bouriatie. Déjà pour le nom.
Petit aparté pour Olistan : j'avais lu ton article sur la Gagaouzie quand je préparais mon voyage en Roumanie en 2015. J'aurais situé la Gagaouzie en Syldavie si on me l'avait demandé ! Il n'y avait qu'Hergé pour inventer un truc pareil. Il y a des noms qui font rêver.
J'aurais aussi fait plus d'escales sur le trajet du transsibérien (encore un nom qui fait rêver).. On a l'embarras du choix. Souzdal aussi que je comptais faire.
Maintenant, je ne voudrais pas casser le mythe mais le ou plutôt les transsibérien(s) sont des trains comme les autres, même pas confortables. En 3e classe, on s'y lave aux lingettes, on supporte la promiscuité, le bruit et les ronflements, les odeurs de nourriture, la couchette dure et trop courte, les paysages qui ne changent pas toutes les 5 minutes, mais tout ça a un charme fou et on se souvient longtemps des rencontres qu'on y a faites. On s'y pose, on lit un bouquin, on médite, on regarde les autres, on somnole...
Un conseil utile, que j'avais suivi : j'ai emmené plein de photos de chez moi : maison, famille, architecture bruxelloise art nouveau, églises, .. Ca a permis de débuter la "conversation".
Je ne le ferais tout de même pas non stop. On est aussi là pour découvrir le pays et...prendre une douche de temps en temps.
Pour le couchsurfing, je n'en suis pas membre, faute de temps libre pour accueillir des invités mais ça doit être bien de pouvoir vivre et converser un peu avec des locaux. J'envie "Voyage en terre inconnue" où ils ont des interprètes. Frédéric, si tu me lis, je viens quand tu veux.
J'avais eu l'occasion de loger chez des amis d'une amie japonaise, dans une maison traditionnelle sur l'île de Shikoku (au Japon, on n'est plus en Russie). Ca reste un très grand souvenir.
En tout cas, bonne préparation de voyage.
Bravo pour votre récit très intéressant. Nous voyageons comme vous en individuel.
Nous sommes partis 6 jours cette année à St Petersbourg en février.
Mais pour pouvoir obtenir le visa, nous devions d'abord avoir acheté toutes nos chambres d'hôtel pour tout le voyage, avec envoi par l'hôtel d'un document administratif pour lequel il demandait copie de notre carte Visa, et le visa n'a été délivré que pour le nombre de jours d'hôtel réservé. Bien compliqué si nous voulions changer de lieu ! Et décourageant pour une visite plus longue avec changements de lieux.
N'aviez vous pas ces contraintes ?
Worldtour
de nombreuses agences acceptent de vous faire le justificatif nécessaire sans ces contraintes de réservation préalable pour toutes les nuitées.
En fait, on croit souvent économiser en gérant soi-même sa demande de visa, mais pour un pays comme la Russie, pour peu qu'on ne réside pas à proximité d'un consulat russe, c'est plus avantageux de passer par une agence spécialisée en visas (j'avais fait appel à une agence lyonnaise qui s'est occupée de tout sans que j'ai besoin de me déplacer, il y a des équivalents dans d'autres régions)
Merci bcp, la Russie m'intéresse et votre récit m'a complètement envoûté. Je voyage bcp seule et comme vous, je trouve qu'il est plus facile de communiquer avec les gens que lorsque l'on voyage à 2. Bon prochain voyage...
Très sympa ton récit. Irkust a bien changé, j'y ai séjourné en 2011 et 2012. J'ai bien observé tes photos pour reconnaitre les lieux. le fait que tu donnes les prix des choses est également intéressant.
Merci à tous pour les messages privés et publics. Je vais essayer d'y répondre.
Pour l'appareil, un simple reflex Nikon, pas du tout pro. C'est la photographe qui fait la différence😉.
Pour le visa, j'ai un ami qui me demandait récemment quelle était la procédure. Je ne l'ai pas résumée ici car plusieurs personnes l'ont déjà décrite mais voici un copier-coller de ce que je lui ai envoyé :
Si tu voyages moins de 2 sem, et que tu ne vas qu'à StP, tu peux demander à l'hôtel de t'envoyer gratis une "invitation". Pour un séjour supérieur à 2 sem, (3 sem pour moi), il faut un plan détaillé : j'ai dû faire un programme, jour par jour, les vols, les noms et adresses d'hôtels (trouvés sur booking.com), les jours de train puisque je voulais prendre le transsib. Les horaires des trains n'étaient pas encore publiés.
J'ai fait appel à une agence russe (www.baikalnature.fr) qui m'a traduit tout ça en russe (avec une copie du passeport) pour +- 12€. Paiement sécurisé en ligne, ils parlent français. Ca a pris +- 10j. Après, tu peux changer d'hôtel, il semble que personne ne vérifie. De toute façon, tout a été décalé de plusieurs jours chez moi. J'avais expliqué à Baikalnature que je partais hors saison pour pouvoir faire des changements de dernière minute. Ca n'a pas eu l'air de les inquiéter. De toute façon, c'est moi qui aurais eu des problèmes, pas eux !
Maintenant je parle pour les Belges. Qd tu as l'invitation, ton passeport et une preuve d'assurance maladie rapatriement (ils ont l'habitude et mettent les dates du voyage), tu fais une demande en ligne sur le site de l'ambassade http://www.belgium.mid.ru/cons-visa_inform.html#3 (moins cher, 35 euros je crois) à Uccle ou de l'agence des visas http://www.vhs-belgium.com/?lang=fr (à Auderghem)(+- 30 € de plus), tu remplis les pages en ligne et à la fin, tu dois prendre un rendez-vous. C'est là que ça a coincé pour moi car le 1er rendez-vous dispo était 15 j plus tard à l'ambassade ! Ce qui me faisait récupérer mon passeport le lundi pour partir le mercredi !!! Ils m'ont dit que ça suffisait mais ça m'a stressée.
J'ai finalement choisi l'agence des visas qui avait des rendez-vs plus rapides. (attention, le doc n'est pas le même)
Tu vas là-bas avec une photo et tes papiers, ça ne dure pas, il n'y avait personne mais ils te demandent si tu as rendez-vs. 1 sem plus tard, tu récupères le passeport avec le visa.
Moi, j'avais réservé les premiers hôtels avant de partir mais j'ai dû les annuler à cause des attentats et je n'ai pas eu de remarque à la douane quant aux changements de dates. Par contre, j'aurais certainement eu des problèmes si j'avais décalé mon vol retour, le visa étant fait pour la durée exacte du séjour.
Magnifique récit avec de très très belles photos.j'étais à St péter bourg 2 jours mais très envie de faire un tour comme vous vers le moi de Mai.et si c'est possible de le faire seule c'est encore mieux!!vous m'avez fait vibrer avec votre récit. Merci
Merci pour ce carnet, qui me donne encore plus envie de visiter Moscou et Saint-Pétersbourg (oui pour un seul voyage cela suffit). Nous avons dans l'idée d'y aller l'hiver (fin février) pour éviter la foule dans les palais, musées... et avoir une chance de voir les villes sous la neige ! J'ai quand même peur du froid, aie !
Ça semble être une manie les églises sous échafaudages dans le monde orthodoxe russe, cet été en Ukraine c'était pareil pour certaines, j'avoue, c'est décevant. Je rêve vraiment de voir Smolny donc j'espère que les travaux seront finis d'ici là !
Autre aspect très frustrant des églises orthodoxes : l'interdiction de faire des photos à l'intérieur, pour des raisons obscures assez agaçantes...
Et oui ça t'agace de ne pas pouvoir faire de photos dans certaines églises orthodoxes, mais je pense que tu trouve ça normal pour les mosquées? Il faut visiter la Russie en ayant à l'esprit que cette population très proche de nous par ses origines (ce sont comme nous des indo-européens) n'a pas forcément les mêmes valeurs et les mes repères historiques. Il y avait jusqu'à peu, plus de personnes parlant français que de personnes parlant anglais.
Les mosquées ? On pouvait faire des photos dans les mosquées à Istanbul (j'en pas visité ailleurs). En Ukraine dans certaines églises on pouvait, d'autres pas...
Je trouve ça idiot et j'assume. Quand je vois de belles choses j'aime les immortaliser car sinon j'oublie (les détails), je n'ai pas une bonne mémoire photographique donc oui c'est frustrant !
J'aimerais savoir sur quoi cette interdiction se base, Jésus n'a pas dit de ne pas prendre de photos des églises hein 😛
Bon en Ukraine vu certains comportements ultra-narcissiques je comprends. Ils n'ont pas envie de voir toutes les "dindes" passer 1h à se faire prendre 100 fois en photos dans l'église (véridique, j'ai vu ça plein de fois à l'extérieur), je ne sais pas si c'est pareil en Russie.
1.000 que dis-je 1.000.000 de mercis pour le temps consacré à la rédaction de ce loooong récit de voyage !!!
Il y a tellement de gens sur ce site qui posent des dizaines de questions mais qui ne font jamais profiter les autres de leurs expériences personnelles au retour :-))
La lecture de votre récit a été un plaisir extraordinaire car c'est, non seulement, une mine d'informations diverses et variées utiles voire indispensables quand on aime voyager hors des sentiers battus et en toute liberté mais le ton général rendait la lecture particulièrement divertissante et agréable.
Je pense que nous devons avoir à peu près le même âge et la même philosophie des voyages et la Russie, hormis St Petersbourg et Moscou, est un pays que je ne connais absolument pas et que j'aimerais découvrir comme vous l'avez fait.
Il est donc possible, si vous en êtes d'accord, que je revienne un jour ou l'autre vers vous en message privé afin d'éclaircir certains points.
Et si jamais vous souhaitez un jour continuer votre voyage en direction de l'extrême orient russe et que vous cherchez un compagnon de voyage... je suis des vôtres :-))
Encore merci pour cette découverte.
FFlyerCDG
Cela m'encourage à continuer. Le prochain résumé devrait concerner mon récent voyage en Albanie, d'autant que les infos sur ce pays sont peu nombreuses.
Faut juste que je trouve un peu de temps.
Extrême orient russe ? Je rêve du Kamchatka. Mais ce ne sera pas pour tout de suite. Il y a tellement d'endroits que je voudrais découvrir ou redécouvrir.
Pourquoi n'a-t-on qu'une seule vie ?
Et puis, bien sûr, je reste disponible, si je peux aider.
Un voyage de M'ame Portobelo en Albanie ??
J'attends cela avec impatience car de ce pays je ne connais que sa capitale visitée il y a déjà bien longtemps...
Fasciné par la géographie depuis mes plus jeunes années, j'ai jours rêvé de connaître tous les pays du monde...
Sur les 197 reconnus à ce jour par les Nations Unies, il m'en manque encore 18... Mais, bien évidemment ce ne sont pas les plus facilement accessibles :-)
Et pour ceux que je "connais" ça se limite souvent à leur capitale... Mais les années passant, je suis en train d'approfondir d'où l'envie par exemple de découvrir l'Extrême Orient russe.
je complète ma réponse: on ne fait pas de photos dans les églises orthodoxes lorsqu'elles sont ouvertes au culte. Parce que on ne doit pas considérer l'icône comme une œuvre d'art, ni comme une idole, mais comme "l'image qui introduit à la lumineuse présence de celui qu'elle évoque".
Récit de 9 jours de découvertes du lac Baïkal et de la Sibérie hivernale. Tout démarre par un coup de téléphone de ma maman. Elle m’annonce avoir trouvé sa…
La Russie était sur la liste des voyages que je voulais faire en solo. Après l'Argentine et les Etats-Unis, je me suis donc envolée vers l'Est pour passer le…
Apres une nuit dans le train entre Gap et Paris (6 couchettes par compartiments, donc couchés ou debout mais impossible de s'assoir, mais seul moyen pour…
Voici le récit de 3 merveilleuses semaines passées au lac. Avec Laurent, ça fait déjà un mois et demi qu'on est à Moscou pour nos études. Histoire de profiter…
Apres quelques mois, je vous propose un petit compte-rendu et quelques photos d'un voyage qui me tenait a coeur: Le transsiberien + un transfert au Japon,…
This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one.
So, here we go...
March 2nd — Departure by bus from Latour at 6:50 AM. The journey isn’t direct: we pass through Elne then Corneilla. In Perpignan, I switch to a BlablaBus heading to Barcelona’s northern bus station. Before reaching Le Perthus, French police stop us to check IDs. Several people aren’t in order, but after about fifteen minutes, we’re on our way again. We’re checked again at La Jonquera: this time, the wait lasts almost forty-five minutes while police identify those in violation and wait for a vehicle to pick them up. The driver then tries to make up for lost time; we finally arrive at our destination half an hour late.
I quickly head to the Arc de Triomphe metro station, located 200 meters away: you have to cross the bridge along the bus parking lot, then walk through a large garden; the station is on the right before the garden entrance. The trip to the airport isn’t direct: I have to change at Tomasso and take the line to the airport, where I arrive at 1 PM.
At the Emirates counter, I learn my flight was just canceled due to the war in Iran; they offer me another flight for the next day. I have to wait at the airport until 7 PM before being taken to a hotel; the next morning, I’ll take a flight to Vienna (with an 8-hour layover), then an Air India flight to Delhi, and finally a flight to Kolkata. I agree: I don’t know Vienna, so it’ll be an unexpected discovery.
At 7 PM, a small group is taken to the hotel, 35 minutes from the airport, where we’re served a light dinner upon arrival.
March 3rd — A taxi picks me up at 6:30 AM; the flight to Vienna takes off at 9:30 AM and arrives at noon. I’m free until 7 PM; the metro is direct to the city center. The weather is pleasant and not too cold, luckily, since my clothes are light.
When I exit the metro, I spot the St. Stephen’s Cathedral tower in the distance and approach it: the roof, made of glazed tiles, is remarkable.
Entry is free, and the interior, a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles in the center, is stunning.
Not far from there is St. Anne’s Church
, also Baroque, adorned with beautiful frescoes
—a music concert adds an enchanting atmosphere to the visit.
I continue my walk at random through the pedestrian streets lined with magnificent buildings: I’m charmed by the city.
Before heading back to the airport, I stop at a lovely tea salon. My flight will eventually leave with a delay.
Wednesday, March 4th — Delhi and a little luggage scare
We arrive in Delhi shortly after noon. Immigration is quick, and good news: my bag was checked through from Barcelona to Kolkata. I head to the connecting terminal and arrive half an hour before boarding: the flight goes smoothly. Upon arrival, the luggage comes out quickly… except mine. After filing a report, I’m told my bag is in Delhi—I have to retrieve it before taking another flight. I didn’t know (or had forgotten): with the delays, I wouldn’t have had time to pick it up and make the connection.
I take a taxi to the Ichamati Hotel. The welcome is warm, and the room is clean but very small. Without my bag, I feel a bit lost—I have nothing to change into.
Tonight, I’m dining with Raja and his friends at a beautiful restaurant, an old colonial house turned into a hotel.
We’re happy to see each other and have a comforting evening together.
Here’s our account of our trip to Malaysia from September 11th to 27th.
I hope our tips can help others as much as this forum has helped us!
Day 0:
Departure from Nantes with a transfer in Amsterdam via KLM (720 €).
Day 1:
We arrive at KLIA1 in the early afternoon.
First challenge: figuring out where to pick up our luggage. Turns out the answer is right under our noses—we need to take the airport’s internal metro!
Once we’ve got our bags, we withdraw some cash from a Maybank ATM right there.
Next up: SIM card! Just outside the arrivals hall, several kiosks offer them. We go for a Celcom 5 GB card (70 RM).
Then it’s taxi time to get to KL, in the Bukit Bintang area—about 85 RM in a slightly old taxi with weak air conditioning.
We check into our Airbnb apartment, which is clean, more spacious than a hotel room, and—best of all—has a charming balcony with a gorgeous nighttime view!
We end up hanging out on that balcony, reviewing our plans for the next day. After dark, we take the monorail just a short walk away to enjoy our first evening on a rooftop at the 34th floor: Hélipad (Raja Chulan station—you have to enter the Menara Tower at the base of the station) with a panoramic view of the city and its iconic towers.
Finally, we head to Jalan Alor to grab a bite in this super busy street.
Big sleep ahead! 😴
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rentals kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything fell into place—I told myself, now’s the time!
Preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or play it by ear?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela on this destination (the guide has been updated since).
---/---
You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(‘Beefsteak’ for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
After the summer of 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, here I am back in Swedish Lapland for the summer of 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, tackle part of the Kungsleden too.
After much hesitation, my companion Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which, from what we’ve read, is stunning but very crowded (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: SAREK! This park is known as Europe’s last wild space—I think it’s incredibly inspiring!!
The downside of this choice is that there are no resupply options in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long treks either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part with Sarek in mind.
But hey, we’re motivated!
Our plan is to start in Abisko (classic), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official route and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad).
At least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to abandon the Sarek crossing.
That adds up to 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day + 1 buffer day for weather delays.
So if you’re interested, I invite you to follow our overstuffed backpacks!
08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure
Some info (guides used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta)
08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri
08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja
08/06 – Just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo
08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + side trip to Djalson Lake
08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure
08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden)
08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure
08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure
08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - So, Sarek or no Sarek?
08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen
08/14 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – above the Skarki hut
Coming up:
08/15 – Above the Skarki hut - Skarja
June 2024.
While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way.
The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km.
It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.
In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?
And the answers?
Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan.
Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable.
But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give.
Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom.
A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain.
But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.
Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing.
And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality.
When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual.
No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.
This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.
Now, all that was left was to walk.
April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.
After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we’re hoping this time the sun will shine in Puglia.
It’s not a sure thing, though—the weather’s been awful all over Europe in early May.
For those who’d like to (re)read the story without the digressions, it’s here.
Saturday, May 16:
This time we’re flying out of Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight times, and proximity all worked for us.
The airport (Ryanair) was recently renovated... but it’s still not very well organized. There are hardly any seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms cost money!!!
The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari a little late.
We quickly pick up our rental car, a very local-looking Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian roads... and their unique driving quirks (like the fact that the countless road signs along the streets and in towns are purely decorative 😏, and that Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).
About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli.
The owner isn’t there, but they’ve left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch.
We explore the property:
And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:
Sunday, May 17:
After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start inland.
After a hearty breakfast,
we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs.
We easily find a free parking spot on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.
We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).
From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.
Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner.
We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.
I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...
Here’s the classic route we took:
We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima.
The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night).
For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person).
We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express).
Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives.
After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport.
It turned out to be super useful!
After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening.
Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory).
Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that dot city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the "vintage" vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a colorful mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to the nearby Asakusa Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
We went to Albania in August 2025.
Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.
I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees.
We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.
Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors.
You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned.
The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents.
We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance.
After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine.
In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots.
In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.
And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations...
Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.
One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.
On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.
I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring.
So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings.
We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.
Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.
After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold.
We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength...
Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes:
🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman
🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...
🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great.
After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!
🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër.
After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!
But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing.
In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!
I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.
First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!
We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning.
And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.
For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.
Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.
With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hello,
Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...).
Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand.
For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken.
Comments and questions are welcome.
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s.
Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid.
Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.
Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior.
Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust...
What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.
Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.
After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold?
And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs.
The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.
Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!
That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos.
When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.
Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.
The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.
Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams.
The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*
Hi there,
Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo).
It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people.
At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.
Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.
The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it.
Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead.
We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!
That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉
I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.
Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá
We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.
Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento
The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air.
We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems.
We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.
Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley
This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect.
That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.
Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views
The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet.
In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.
Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall
We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill.
We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.
Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales
Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.
Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs
In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.
Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games
We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.
Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast
Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.
Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena
We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.
Day 11 – Road to Barú
A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.
Day 12 – Beach and relaxation
A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.
Day 13 – On to Santa Marta
Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.
Day 14 – Tayrona Park
We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.
Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá
Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.
Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip
Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.
That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle.
The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia.
Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.
If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change:
- I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly.
- Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.
Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany.
Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).
Another building near the square:
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory?
In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination).
So, read on... or don’t .
Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).
This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.
We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less).
This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro).
We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call!
Whose fault is it?
Storm Thérèse’s!
Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...
But even without Thérèse...
Saturday 21/03
Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia.
The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down.
It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.
We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter.
We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.
It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier).
So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours.
We found a huge parking lot... empty.
The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕.
So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.
The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon.
As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!
Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon!
Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded .
The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.
So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete.
The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛).
Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked!
Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.
Trip Planning
My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers.
I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.
The Trip
Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22
Departure
It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station.
The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots.
We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible.
We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher.
We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it.
I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes.
We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel.
After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room.
A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view.
It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want.
Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day.
Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive.
A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery.
We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all.
In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.
Tuesday, September 23
After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park.
The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds.
Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride.
We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park.
It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot.
We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos.
At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam.
The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock.
On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.
Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.
Wednesday, September 24
We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast.
When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer.
The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers.
You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes.
At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics.
Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua.
This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique.
There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water.
Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water.
Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics.
Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon.
We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano.
A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano.
When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring.
We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.
Thursday, September 25
After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano.
This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater.
Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment.
The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks.
You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach.
Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products.
We then head to the famous Papagayo beach.
The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue.
From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road.
Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover.
We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches.
We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks.
The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful.
We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.
Friday, September 26
We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit.
Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time.
The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here.
We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops.
We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice.
Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting.
We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.
Saturday, September 27
After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works.
Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down.
We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95.
We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach.
At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.
Sunday, September 28
We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious.
We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away.
We return the rental car and go to the airport.
A long line to check in our luggage.
The return flight is on time.
A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station.
We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases.
The rental is between the old port and the train station.
Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor.
The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular.
This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.
In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit.
I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual.
Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up...
We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...
As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??
The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.
In Addis... "our" A-350.
.....
After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.
By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later.
Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.
Welcome on board:
Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:
I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias??
As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...
On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!!
Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.
It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge.
Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...
Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.
Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??
A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:
Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!
When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me.
I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Just back from two weeks in Andalusia, and I wanted to share this experience with you—maybe it’ll help with planning a trip. I’ll start with a quick recap in this post and try to add photos and day-by-day details later (still sorting through them). Hope I don’t bore you too much! 😎
Trip details:
April 20 to May 4, 2019:
7 days on the Costa de la Luz (El Puerto de Santa María) in an Airbnb,
4 days at the junction of the Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical (Salobreña) in an Airbnb,
3 days at Cabo de Gata for some rest at a campsite in Los Escullos.
Two families of four, each with our own car: three 9-year-old boys and a 6-year-old girl. One family was more into city exploration (not us, but we’re working on it), and the other preferred relaxation and nature (that’s us). We speak a little Spanish.
Over 5,000 km, including 2,500 km for the round trip from Carcassonne.
The weather: Variable, but we expected better for this region in late April. The first week on the Costa de la Luz was sometimes chilly (< 20°C), and the second week was warmer but not excessive (< 25°C). At least we didn’t get much rain!
Our budget: Around 2600 € per family:
700 € for accommodations, about 50 € per night,
1000 € for meals and restaurants. We usually spent around 50 € per family at restaurants—we ate out for lunch (except for 2–3 picnics) and cooked at home in the evenings, trying to be back by 6 PM.
600 € for activities: Río Tinto, a flamenco show, visits to the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar, Oasis Park with meals, and a kayaking trip.
300 € for gas and tolls.
Preparation: A few months ahead with bookings for accommodations and tickets for the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar. We used a few travel guides—I like the *Évasion* guide for initial planning. *Géoguide* was okay, but our friends’ *Routard* was the most useful. We also spent three months brushing up on Spanish with Mosalingua (a great spaced-repetition method, max 10 minutes a day). Downloaded Maps.me and the Andalusia map in advance—essential. And we used Tricount to track shared expenses with friends—super handy.
What we did/saw:
3 city visits (Seville, Granada, and Cádiz) + Málaga for our friends (we vetoed Córdoba—too many cities for us).
4 white villages (Vejer de la Frontera, Arcos de la Frontera, Grazalema, Ronda) + Tarifa for our friends.
Beaches (Tarifa and Bolonia, Matalascañas, Nerja, Cabo de Gata).
Nature and fun moments: Doñana National Park, a kayaking trip along the rocky coast near Nerja, and the Wild West/animal park in the Tabernas Desert.
A little culture: Río Tinto mines, the archaeological site of Itálica, Columbus’s caravels, Nerja Cave for us, and the Picasso Museum in Málaga for our friends. Plus, seeing the ham-drying process in the Alpujarras (for our friends).
Our highlights
Nerja and the surrounding villages: The rocky coast was amazing, and we loved the kayaking trip, even if the water was freezing for snorkeling. The beaches are sheltered from the wind, the town is charming, and the cave is incredible.
El Rocío and Doñana National Park. El Rocío has a timeless, almost Wild West vibe—we could’ve stayed a day or two. The quiet and pine scents reminded us of the Landes region.
What we didn’t love as much:
Río Tinto mines: Not super exciting, and the guides’ nonstop chatter kind of ruined the "nature" experience.
Our little regrets (for next time):
Forgetting our passports and missing a day trip to Tangier from Tarifa.
Not having an extra day around Nerja to go snowboarding in the Sierra Nevada—just 1.5 hours away (the kayak guide suggested it).
Not spending at least one night in El Rocío to explore Doñana National Park at dawn.
Antequera with the Guadalhorce reservoir and the Caminito del Rey (but it would’ve meant 2 more hours of driving, and we didn’t have the energy).
My general impressions of Andalusia and Spain
Landscapes: A feeling of extreme concentration of a single activity in some areas—endless olive groves, wind farms on the Costa de la Luz (which I thought were well-integrated), rows of buildings along the Costa del Sol (yikes, glad we didn’t stop there), greenhouses around Almería (a shame to have frozen the coast for so many kilometers), and the massive industrial port of Huelva.
What surprised us compared to France was the lack of small hamlets—villages are clearly defined, and people cluster there, leaving vast landscapes without human presence. In France, you find houses scattered everywhere.
Roads: Relatively few tolls. Sure, rest areas aren’t as nice as in France, but the roads are in good condition, and our wallet was happy. The roads are pretty straight with countless bridges and tunnels—the upside (besides fast travel) is that there aren’t many secondary roads disrupting the scenery.
Tourism and activities: A huge variety and richness. Feels like everyone can find something they like, and 15 days barely scratched the surface. It’s amazing how quickly you go from the coast to snow-capped peaks (Sierra Nevada) or from farmland to desert (Tabernas). And the mix of European and Arabic architecture in the same city is really special.
One small regret: Not interacting more with locals. We didn’t luck out with our Airbnbs. But shopkeepers were great—very patient with my broken Spanish! :-)
Overall, I think our choice to stay on the Costa de la Luz and then near Nerja worked well. We could explore pretty easily (even if we logged a lot of kilometers), and the settings were fantastic. The 3 days of total relaxation at Cabo de Gata were perfect.
If you prefer shorter stops, you could try staying in El Rocío (easy access to Seville and great for an early visit to Doñana National Park) or maybe Grazalema for a hike in the mountains (weather-dependent). And of course, Tarifa for a day trip to Tangier or Gibraltar.
Bye, bye Saint-Pétersbourg, j'ai adoré cette ville. Et je suis contente d'y avoir consacré 5 jours pleins, c'est un minimum. J'espère vous avoir donné envie d'y aller ou le goût d'y retourner.
Beaucoup d'embouteillages à Moscou, comme on le voit ici.
Ma voisine, qui ne doute de rien, demande où sont les toilettes, ce qui fait hurler de rire le chauffeur qui répond en russe d’un grand geste. Ca y est, je comprends le russe, « partout ».
Lénin(grad)
Bon d'accord, ça surprend : Frida Kahlo
Le fleuve Iénissei
pause pipi
pour les gourmands
Ile de beauté.
A remarquer qu'on parle russe sans le savoir : parfmrs cosmtk. Comme je l'expliquais, même si on paume quelques lettres, on devine de quoi il s'agit.
Vous voilà prévenus.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
A little sneak peek?
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
