Retour d'expérience sur 15 jours de road trip du sud au nord. Avec des surprises et des conseils...
Que faire en Bosnie ? Voir une nature sauvage, somptueuse, en particulier ses rivières et ses lacs. Dans un pays au climat continental qui peut être un des plus chauds d'Europe (45, voire 50 °C en été !!), une eau cristalline coule paradoxalement en abondance.
Mais à quoi bon si on ne peut pas en profiter ? Pour le touriste lambda, là est toute la question, car la plupart du temps, rien n'est accessible (sauf au prix d'efforts insistants et prolongés, mais pas toujours couronnés de succès).
Sachant le pays peu touristique, j'avais bien préparé à l'avance ces 15 jours de découverte. Mais une fois sur place, il a fallu se rendre à l'évidence : impossible par exemple de faire du vélo, du canoë (voire du raft hormis sur 2 ou 3 spots à travers le pays).
Quant à faire une simple balade, j'ai essayé à moult reprises : impossible ! Absence de cartes, absence de balisage, absence tout simplement de chemins, pas mal de serpents (vipères), nombreux chiens errants (voire molosses sans maitre gardant un chemin), etc. Bref, en 15 jours, 1 seul chemin accessible pour une balade d'1h30, ça ne fait pas le poids !!!
L'autre souci a résidé dans la communication : (très) peu de bosniens parlent anglais. Certains maitrisent quelques mots d'allemand puisque nos voisins d'outre Rhin sont très présents (mais moins que les pays du moyen Orient). Par ailleurs et de manière générale, il y a très peu d'informations touristique sur le web et sur place. Des (rares) offices du tourisme ne répondent par exemple pas aux mails.
Alors la Bosnie, oui pour le plaisir des yeux. Mais pour le reste le pays demeure sous-développé sur le plan touristique, eu égard à son potentiel (et surtout à sa voisine croate). Peut être y a t'il un peu plus d'animation en juillet-août ? Mais il faut alors affronter des chaleurs parfois étouffantes (sans un souffle d'air), déjà 35-36 °C à Mostar début juin.
Alors, mes meilleurs souvenirs en Bosnie ? L'arrivée et le départ depuis la côte croate (Split) 😏 😉 Je plaisante ! Mais ce séjour a été moins épanouissant qu'il aurait pu l'être. J'ai vu de très beaux endroits (Kravica, Blaqaj, Konjic, Jajce, parc national Una, etc.) mais cela ne compense pas un sentiment général mitigé. Ce n'est qu'un avis personnel, le mien.... J'espère qu'il pourra éclairer ceux que l'aventure tente (à juste titre).
Et pour finir sur une note positive : si vous y allez, ne manquez pas le village de Stolac (au sud est, non loin de Blaqaj), méconnu (à tort).
je partage malheureusement ton avis qui n'est nullement excessif .
même si je te trouve un poil dur 😛 sachant que ces infos ou du moins leur absence est en général connue avant le départ ; malgré la préparation que tu as pu faire il faut effectivement se rendre à l'évidence .
tu connais mon sentiment et ma frustration ; on en a discuté en mp .😕
pour la langue il y a 2 " classes " d'age ; les baby boomers qui sont plus à l'aise en allemand et sinon toute la jeunesse jusqu'à la bonne quarantaine parle trés souvent couramment anglais ; en tout cas le parallèle avec la France est sans conteste en leur faveur .
l’immense majorité des problèmes structurels et l'inertie flagrante dans tous les domaines vient de la catastrophique Présidence tri partite et tournante .
tu sais que j'ai connu ce pays dans d'autres conditions et je peux t'assurer que la régréssion est flagrante et constante .
les gens sont comme anesthésiés à coup de crédit revolving smartphones et écran plats
pour rester dans l'actualité on est aux antipodes des gilets jaunes ...
Et pour finir sur une note positive : si vous y allez, ne manquez pas le village de Stolac (au sud est, non loin de Blaqaj), méconnu (à tort).
notamment mondialement connu pour la naissance de Madame ....😏
je pense qu'il ne faut pas aborder un séjour en Bosnie comme un par exemple en Croatie .
il faut être trés souple et laisser un peu de place à l'inattendu pour rester sur une note agréable .
je suis désolé que ton séjour soit globalement négatif surtout l'épisode rafting à UNA ou en général on est trés bien accueilli ; tu as malheureusement du mal tomber car je n'y ai que de bonnes expériences .
ça reste un NP magnifique qui n'a aucunement à rougir de la comparaison avec le trop médiatique Plitvice .
en juillet août il n'y a pas de différence à part la chaleur suffocante de Mostar qui détient le record d'Europe en la matière .
toujours un plaisir de partager avec toi
La Bosnie-Herzégovine a été un véritable coup de coeur. Comme quoi les expériences... 😉
J'ai aimé ses habitants, toujours prêts à vous aider, à vous renseigner en dépit quelquefois de l'impossibilité de communiquer avec des mots. Quel bol d'air (et d'humanité) après Dubrovnik ! J'ai adoré Sarajevo. Ville aux visages multiples. Porte de l'Orient. Je pensais découvrir une ville un peu glauque. J'y ai au contraire trouvé beaucoup de vitalité. Trebinje, Travnik, Mostar... tout m'a plu. J'y retournerai, c'est sûr.
Merci de ne m'avoir pas cloué au pilori Blagajcity lol
Je sais les liens qui t'unissent à ce pays 😉
L'absence d'anglais a particulièrement fait défaut avec des propriétaires d'appart (Air bnb, Hotels.com, Booking et cie), mais il est vrai que ce sont plutôt des seniors. Et c'est aussi un cercle vicieux : pourquoi se donner la peine d'apprendre l'anglais s'il y a peu de touristes ?
Tout n'est pas négatif, mais cette destination n'est à mon avis pas appropriée pour des vacances "actives", c'est à dire pour profiter de cette nature grandiose. La découverte des villes s'avère peut-être plus facile, même si là aussi l'information (ou son absence) constitue le nerf de la guerre.
J'ai été vraiment surpris de ne pas trouver de chemins, par exemple le long de ces magnifiques rivières. Au dessus de Konjic par exemple, rien au bord de la Neretva. J'avais repéré le village de Dzajici, mais le seul petit chemin de terre ne faisait que 30 minutes (aller-retour !). Cela s'explique peut-être du fait du type d'agriculture (élevage de moutons)...
Idem dans le parc national Una, où il y a bien un chemin de randonnée balisé (Stabski Buk -> Lohovo), mais tous les locaux m'ont dit "impossible". En fait étroit et pas mal de vipères (j'ai quasiment vu un serpent tous les jours et dans ces coins paumés, t'as plutôt intérêt à ne pas te faire mordre !)...
A force de chercher, j'ai quand même fini par trouver UN chemin (en 15 jours...ouf !) au départ de Martin Brod, en remontant l'Una direction la Croatie. Et j'ai eu un coup de coeur pour Jajce : il faut dire que j'y ai aussi trouvé les 1er "supermarchés" (Bingo et Crvena obuka) du road trip qui vendaient du poulet, du poisson, bref une nourriture assez diversifiée.
Auparavant, je n'avais jamais vu autant de salamis de toutes les formes et toutes les couleurs ! Les bosniens en sont les champions du monde, ex aequo avec les incontournables BBQ 😛. A savoir aussi si on compte faire les courses et la cuisine : la plupart du temps on ne trouve que de petites supérettes (où le choix est forcément réduit).
Mais pour le reste le pays demeure sous-développé sur le plan touristique, eu égard à son potentiel (et surtout à sa voisine croate).
Voilà justement un aspect de la Bosnie (je n'étais pas allée en Herzegovina) qui m'avait séduite. Nous étions les seuls touristes dans la lumière du petit matin où bruissait l'eau des moulins de Jajce, les seuls touristes dans ce magnifique restaurant en terrasse sur la Una aux portes de Bihac, les seuls encore sur le Pont sur la Drina...
Vous parlez d'un road trip, et vous n'évoquez jamais la conduite. J'ai pris un plaisir fou à conduire sur ces sinueuses routes de montagne aux paysages magnifiques, radio adonf avec une musique contrastée, où la plus puissante mélancolie alterne avec l'éclat soudain des cuivres, mélodies si souvent teintées d'orient, pauses megagastronomiques supercaloriques de plateaux carnés à nourrir un régiment dans des resto de bord de route.
J'aime ce pays. Mais sans doute n'est il pas adapté au type de tourisme que vous escomptiez pratiquer.
Catherine
By this, and this only, we have existed. Which is not to be found in our obituaries. (T.S. Eliot)
Merci de ne m'avoir pas cloué au pilori Blagajcity lol
aucune raison ; ton avis ne fait pas l'unanimité mais on peut parfaitement l'entendre .
Tout n'est pas négatif, mais cette destination n'est à mon avis pas appropriée pour des vacances "actives", c'est à dire pour profiter de cette nature grandiose. La découverte des villes s'avère peut-être plus facile, même si là aussi l'information (ou son absence) constitue le nerf de la guerre.
j'ai du mal à me projeter comme " touriste " mais j'ai rencontré beaucoup de gens qui justement appréciaient et même recherchaient cette forme de découverte même si parfois elle est déconcertante .
le retard pris dans beaucoup de domaines ne fait que s'accentuer et le misérable panneau de 20 X 20 cm qui indique bien caché l'entrée de Una à Lohovo en est un exemple criant .
alors pour ce qui est de sentiers de randonnées bien propres et balisés je craints de ne pas les voire de mon vivant .
Idem dans le parc national Una, où il y a bien un chemin de randonnée balisé (Stabski Buk -> Lohovo), mais tous les locaux m'ont dit "impossible". En fait étroit et pas mal de vipères (j'ai quasiment vu un serpent tous les jours et dans ces coins paumés, t'as plutôt intérêt à ne pas te faire mordre !)...
ça me ramène 3 ans en arrière ; je voulais rejoindre Cardaklije de Kulen Vakuf et j'avais reperé une route forestière qui m'évitait un détour ; j'ai mis un temps fou à en trouver l'entrée et des locaux m'ont également dit que c'était impossible 😄
j'ai plus craints de croiser un ours qu'une vipère mais c'était une belle ballade chaotique .
https://goo.gl/maps/eM2gqFn6dmJDMrSg9
le manque de variété dans la nourriture est effectivement perturbant pour nous ; surtout sur de longues périodes .
Je suis allé en Bosnie l'an dernier et j'ai adoré notamment Sarajevo, ville magnifique avec une ambiance très particulière, le côtoiement et la tolérance entre gens différents, l'histoire des années 90 et de 1914 très présente. Non rien n'est fait pour le touriste et c'est ce qui fait le charme de ce pays. Je suis actuellement en Biélorussie, c'est la même chose, plein de choses à découvrir mais il faut se le gagner.
magnifique et émouvante lecture que le roman éponyme d'Ivo Andric.
Oui. Et comme les reptiles sont beaucoup évoqués ici, je songe à cette nouvelle intitulée “le serpent", extraite du recueil, "Contes au fil du temps", du meme auteur.
Deux jeunes filles, deux Viennoises, filles du commandant de la région militaire de la Bosnie occupée. Deux jeunes femmes habituées à l’aisance, à l’opulence même. L’aînée, dynamique, déterminée et volontaire s’implique depuis toujours dans l’aide aux démunis, la cadette, plus délicate, s’étiole dans un amour non partagé. Elles devisent tendrement, emportée par la voiture légère de leur père qui roule vers Višegrad. Un groupe attire leur regard, la voiture s’arrête. Une adolescente mordue par un serpent est allongée par terre. La bouffissure bleuâtre s’étend. Une vieille femme que l’on est allée quérir marmonne des incantations. L’énergique et moderne jeune femme sait ce qu’il faut faire, demande les outils pour… se heurte… à l’isolement… au silence de l’étendue déserte. Confronté à une situation nouvelle, réduit à l’impuissance par le dénuement du lieu dans lequel il se trouve, le dense tissu d’un esprit volontaire et compact se déchire et s’ouvre soudain à l’abîme.
La littérature bosniaque regorge de joyaux. Ma dette envers elle est immense 🙂.
Catherine
By this, and this only, we have existed. Which is not to be found in our obituaries. (T.S. Eliot)
Arnaques à éviter en voyage › Bosnie-Herzégovine · 8 replies
Mes parents ont participé à un séjour en Bosnie HERZEGOVINE organisé par l'agence de voyage ANDP Voyages 19, rue du Jour75001 Paris 01.45.08.57.66. Au moment…
Voyager avec des enfants › Bosnie-Herzégovine / Croatie · 10 replies
Après avoir passé un certain temps à éplucher les messages du forum, j'ose pour la première fois solliciter votre aide. Je prépare un voyage en famille. Nous…
Voyager avec des enfants › Bosnie-Herzégovine / Monténégro / Croatie · 21 replies
J’envisage un road-trip en famille (avec jeunes enfants) en août prochain au Monténégro, en Bosnie et Dubrovnik. Je ne sais pas si c’est faisable de combiner…
Hi, I’d like to buy a ticket to go to Terezín from Prague using the Pid Litacka app, but I don’t know which zone to get the ticket for. Thanks for your help! 😊
Hi there,
After booking an Airbnb last January for this summer’s vacation in Sarajevo... My "host" canceled our reservation without any reason—this has never happened to me before.
Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking...
So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.
I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet.
But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!
And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!
Hi, I’m going to Turkey for 3 weeks. I’ve heard that you can’t book through Booking.com once you’re there and that everything has to be reserved in advance. Is it true that Booking.com doesn’t work in Turkey? Thanks to anyone who’s already been or is there—if it’s true, how do you handle bookings?
I’d love to get your opinions and advice on a destination.
It’s actually for my 19-year-old son who wants to go to Greece with his cousin, who’s the same age.
They’re looking at leaving on October 24th for 7 to 10 days.
For their trip, they want gorgeous beaches where they can swim, beautiful typical villages and historic cities, stunning landscapes, but also lively spots for their nights out. In short, they’re not just going there to laze around—they want to make the most of it...
But here’s the thing: will the weather be too iffy at that time, especially for swimming?
Also, would Crete be the best choice for what they’re looking for?
Then, a travel agent suggested Tenerife instead because of the weather at that time of year—he said the climate there is the same all year round. But will they find landscapes and beaches as beautiful as in Crete?
Hello!
I’m planning a trip to Greece in May or June 2027. We’re independent travelers.
We’ll rent a car after our stay in Athens and book accommodations through Booking or similar sites.
What do you think of this itinerary? We’re taking our time (beach and swimming if the weather allows in May—is the water too cold?)
Athens, 3 days
Nafplio, 3 days (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Archaia)
Mystras, 2 days or Monemvasia, 2 days (Laconia peninsula)?? Dilemma between the two
Return trip from the Peloponnese via the Rio-Antirrio bridge
Nafpaktos, 1 night
Arachova, 2 days (Delphi, Osios Loukas Monastery)
Return to Athens and departure
Is it crowded in May or June for visits to archaeological sites?
Thanks for your suggestions or corrections!
Hi there,
Our first trip to Greece as a couple. We're planning to spend 7 days in Greece from August 30th to September 5th. We'll reserve 2 days for Athens at the end of the trip. For the remaining 5 days, we want to visit an island—any recommendations? Thanks for your tips and details, we really appreciate it.
Hi,
What tips can you give me for dealing with a car rental scam attempt in Lithuania?
In our case, it’s the Avis-Budget agency in Vilnius trying to scam us.
We rented a car at Vilnius Airport for 2 weeks on July 28, 2019, to return it in Tallinn on August 11.
We brought it back on August 11 at the airport, in perfect condition, and with a full tank at the gas station right by Tallinn Airport.
On the parking lot, the receptionist’s booth was closed. So we had to leave the car in the lot and go to the counter inside the airport. The person at the counter told us their colleague had gone for lunch!
But they refused to come out and do the inspection with us because they were alone at the counter.
They told us we could leave and that everything was fine!!!!
Two days later, we got an email from Avis-Budget with two invoices saying the car was damaged—scratched on both sides—and charging us for a full tank of gas. That’s two bills totaling 800 €!!!! Coincidentally, the deposit was 900 €!
It’s clear this isn’t over!!
Have any of you been through the same nightmare? How did you handle it?
Thanks in advance!
I’m spending 2 weeks in Crete in September and will need a rental car.
I usually go with Europcar, but comparing their offer to what Aegean Rentals has, I see Europcar is charging no less than 400 € more for the same car and similar insurance!
I’d love to hear if others have experience with Aegean Rentals, and if so, whether it was a good one?
Hi,
We’re heading to Greece in early October and will be staying in Kineta, north of the Saronic Gulf, and renting a car.
Is it feasible to visit Acrocorinth, Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidaurus in a single day?
Thanks for your recommendations!
Hi there!
I’m sharing our itinerary for May/June 2027—23 days. This is our first time in Greece, so we’re starting with the must-see spots. We’re planning another trip later to explore the north, Thessaloniki, Macedonia, and some islands.
- Athens, 4 nights
- Corinth area, 2 nights (Heraion of Perachora, Canal, Acrocorinth)
- Nafplio, 3 nights (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Methana peninsula)
- Gefira, 2 nights (Monemvasia)
- Areopoli, 2 nights (Mani). Maybe add an extra night and stay on the peninsula??? Based on my calculations, the Mani loop is about 100 km—doable in a day, but it’d be a quick trip.
- Sparta or Pikoulianika, 2 nights (Mystras)
- Dimitsana, 2 nights (Lousios Gorge, monasteries)
- Olympia, 2 nights (via Lagkadia?)
- Delphi or Arachova, 3 nights (via the west coast, Galaxidi bridge) (Delphi, Hosios Loukas Monastery)
- And back to Athens.
This is just a rough draft for now. We’re planning to stay in hotels or book through Booking.com. What do you think? Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!
Over the past twenty-five years, I’ve traveled the roads between France and Moldova a good ten times, sometimes via Central Europe, other times via the Balkans.
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours.
Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours.
This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus.
Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:
In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth.
In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well.
Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions!
Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
Hi everyone,
We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Crete between mid-August and early September, renting a car, quickly exploring a few spots in the east, and focusing on the west, southwest, and south.
I’m worried about the heavy tourist crowds. Is it really more noticeable than elsewhere in Greece? Is there a way to avoid the crowds without missing out on the iconic places, which I imagine are stunning in Crete? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences!
Hi,
I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina?
Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city.
I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint
Visit the Baroque gardens
St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit
National Theatre
Discover the Cumil statues
Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie
Michael’s Gate
Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna
Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid
Head down to the Blue Church
Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge
There you go—10 km and a packed day!
What do you think?
Hi there,
we’re heading to Crete from May 8th to 15th, staying at a hotel in Agia Pelagia, 20 km from Heraklion, on half-board, so we’ll be back every evening. What daily itinerary would you recommend? We love hiking and discovering local cultures...
Thanks in advance!!
Hello,
We’re heading to Prague with so much excitement from June 10th to 20th. I’ve got three main questions for those who live there or have visited:
- What are your thoughts on what to pack clothing-wise? What’s the weather usually like at this time of year? We’re a bit sensitive to the cold—we live way down in southern Andalusia and are used to the *calor* 😎... Should we pack rain gear? Are we likely to get a lot of rain (which we’re dreading a little, but we couldn’t choose other dates)?
- I’ve seen there are "passes" for various attractions, museums, and sites, including one that’s valid for 10 days but costs a whopping 160 € per person—that’s an average of 16 € per day. Do you think it’s really worth it? We won’t be spending our days rushing between every indoor site; we also love wandering the streets and discovering things a bit "at random." If we do two paid visits a day, that’ll probably be the max... Can we make it worth the cost with that? Of course, we want to visit the castle and take a boat trip as a minimum. Are the sites included in these passes iconic, or are they more "minor" attractions? Does having the pass help us skip long lines?
- Finally, a question about communication: I speak French, obviously, plus Spanish and English fluently, but very little German (haven’t practiced in ages), and no Russian or Czech at all. My husband knows a few words of Russian, but it’s "Cuban" Russian—about the same level as my current German 🙂 !! Can we still get by without too much trouble? We don’t want to spend 10 days not saying a word to anyone and communicating only with gestures!!
Thanks for your valuable tips and opinions.
Hi there!
We’re heading to Crete (Heraklion) as a couple and I’d like to rent a car.
1) Do we need an international driver’s permit?
2) Are rentals super expensive?
Thanks everyone!