Bright red and a headache
FR

Translated into English.

NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.

A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore. A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.

"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"

I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, miserably. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.

But the unchanging red—deep, garnet red, so beautiful in itself—echoes through all the Western chancelleries: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go. You’re putting yourself in danger, and we won’t be able to do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, pawns in endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled; we must keep all our strength and give no ground to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.

We went there independently 20 years ago. We used a local agency based in Shiraz, and everything went very smoothly. At the time, female tourists had to wear a veil. I hesitated a lot about taking this trip for that reason. I don’t know if that’s still the case now. Personally, I found it quite difficult. Especially since we came from Turkmenistan by land. I got some unpleasant comments at the border crossing about not being dressed modestly enough... If we’d arrived by airport, the "welcome" would probably have been different. When we got to the hotel in Mashhad, where we were just passing through, I literally collapsed. But shortly after, we discovered a population that was as kind as could be and genuinely happy to communicate with foreigners. In the cities, women let strands of hair show. We even talked to a teacher visiting Yazd with his young students—veiled 10-year-old girls who already told us back then that 80% of women dreamed of living Western-style and removing their veils once and for all. We also came across a gay couple in Mashhad, a highly religious city. They were very open about it, and no one paid any attention. All this to say that even if the country’s politics are disastrous, our media also tend to exaggerate the situation. At the time, it wasn’t uncommon to hear that homosexuals were heavily punished. The weight of religion is very heavy in this country. If you can look past that, everything will go well. And besides, you’re going for a heritage of unparalleled richness, stunning landscapes, and people—who, I’ll say it again, are extremely welcoming.
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
The only downside still being the final choice for the body. Worms or barbecue.

To stay on topic, why not a Zoroastrian-style burial: the body left at the top of a Tower of Silence to be devoured by scavenging birds!

I don’t know if Catherine will be able to meet followers of this ancient religion if she finally decides to head to Persia.
UN UnaMilanese Veteran ·
Good evening Anne-Claire,

Thanks for sharing your memories. 🙂 Religion doesn’t bother me at all. I’m used to listening to a confiteor without flinching, even while dealing with the daily damage it causes. So... anything else, no matter what, for just 17 days, is a tiny little hiccup.

Ashgabat could be an alternative, with the unbeatable advantage that nobody’s ever heard of it and the silence that comes with it. But, well, it’s got nothing to do with density.

If my employer gives me one more day than I’m officially entitled to, I’ll tell you all about it. 😉

Catherine
UN UnaMilanese Veteran ·
Maybe I should say this in the Thoughts and Reflections section (and not in the Middle East one where this topic unfortunately ended up. Ugh, it’s so annoying!)...

2012. The summer trip is ready. Venice-Tartous by ferry, then Aleppo, Damascus, Jordan, Jerusalem, Alexandria-Venice. The situation in Syria is uncertain. We... postpone... I’ll never sleep in the Baron Hotel, I’ll never watch the sunrise over Palmyra from the terrace of the Zenobia Hotel. It’s over, for good. I (just a tiny, insignificant human in the face of the pain that unfolded there) will forever feel like a part of me is missing.

You should never let an opportunity pass, even if it’s uncertain.

C.
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I don’t know if you’ve already left or if you’re about to, but some unrest seems to be taking hold in the country.
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
Yeah, but at least it’ll give us a travel journal as eventful as it is poetic.
XR Xrctn Veteran ·
Turkmenistan would be a very poor alternative to Iran, which remains one of the most extraordinary countries I’ve visited—especially for the encounters and hospitality. Sure, that was decades ago, but I know that in that regard, things haven’t changed much. I only found that kind of atmosphere again much later in Syria. My wife really wants to go to Iran but is put off by the mandatory headscarf rule. Instead of shaving her head (too drastic), I suggested she wear a swim cap. She’s thinking about it.
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I suggested that instead of shaving her head (too drastic), she wear a swimming cap.

I’m not sure the mullahs would look kindly on this subversion of their vision of Islam...

There’s also the Orthodox Jewish method: the wig! But that would be even worse...
UN UnaMilanese Veteran ·
Hi Agnes,

I don’t know if you’ve already left or if you’re about to, but some unrest seems to be spreading across the country.

The agency canceled the trip.

Catherine
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Good evening Agnès

I don’t know if you’ve left yet or if you’re about to, but some unrest seems to be taking hold in the country.

The agency canceled the trip. Catherine

Which tends to prove that, indeed, it’s a legit agency…
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Good evening,

Which tends to prove that it’s indeed a reliable agency...

... Or that they had no choice.

Michel
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hi Catherine,

The conditions for traveling in a reasonably serene atmosphere just weren’t there.

Some countries are closing up, while others seem ready to reopen.

Let’s hope Iran will soon be among the latter—not just for travelers, but especially for Iranians.
BR Brzhiwerzhon Regular ·
Hello,

Some feedback from Iran—about a year ago, I crossed the border on foot before my first stop in Khoy, then Tabriz... Tehran, Isfahan, Yazd, Shiraz, Bandar Abbas, Hormuz, Qeshm.

I should mention that the "job interview" was something else—at the embassy in Istanbul. I really thought I’d never get that visa (I’d been trying to go to Iran for a long time). But I convinced them by saying I didn’t mind spending my euros in Turkey either.

Right now, at that time, you take 250 € and I think you can stay a month in Iran. Rough but no worries. Even at nearly 40, I travel really rough—I have nothing, I even slept outside in Hormuz, by the water, with lots of Iranians (if there are any hippies left, they’re in Iran, yep...). But still, with that level of service, it’s incredible how little life costs for us, and so much for a country so rich in resources.

Iranians are amazing, and while *tarof* is always in play, their kindness is fabulous—sometimes I got really tired of being invited everywhere. But I forgive them; I had a great month. When I arrived, I immediately accepted an invitation from a very pious and conservative family. The father was a retired forklift operator, and I think he was more cultured than many French people—he even knew all our presidents since 1945. It’s pretty impressive to hop in an Uber and have someone start talking to you about Baudelaire. I think you only hear that in Iran.

Oh, and of course, the Sepah isn’t far away. They checked me, but as I mentioned, I’m a bit of a "country bumpkin" (fitting, since I’m from Finistère 😉), so I didn’t have a VPN because my phone was too old to install one. In the end, I could still check the results for Stade Brestois—the only site I could access. The Sepah looked pretty silly when that’s all they found on my phone, and barely any photos either... In the end, I found it great not to use Facebook and to be *truly* cut off from French news for a month. Last year, there were lots of young French travelers, and I think unanimously, they loved Iran.

I also learned I had an "Aryan" face—I’d never thought about it, but I’m not saying that randomly. It’s better to look Aryan than mixed-race, something I experienced with a Dutch guy from Indonesia (his grandmother...) who really struggled to be accepted.

What you should know is that the regime is paranoid (and sometimes for good reason...), and at the slightest suspicion, the smallest clue works against you. It’s better not to mess around. I didn’t have the slightest problem—in fact, on my way out, someone even offered me a joint in the middle of the street. Not that smoking a joint in Iran is wild (on the contrary, it’s a narco-state), but when it’s the Sepah handing it to you and saying "Iran no khoubè"... When I left Iran, I wrote my travel journal, and it was obvious an attack was coming—the economy was on its knees. For comparison, Iran is cheaper than India right now, and I know India *very* well...

I desperately want to go back. I even planned to learn Farsi, but the current situation is very complicated. I don’t think it’s wise to go without local contacts, especially if you speak some Farsi as a foreigner.

Anyway, I hope you get to visit this incredible country.

Oh, and about Zoroastrianism—I assume you’re talking about MUMBAI and the area. There aren’t mass graves like that in Iran, and certainly no vultures. I didn’t see any in India either, unfortunately. Thanks to humans for that. It’s a very interesting religion and still widely practiced in Iran, despite the regime, especially around Shiraz. Personally, I think it originated in India because it closely resembles Buddhism, and I also think it’s the root of another well-known religion further south in the Middle East—but I’d rather not say which one. "Humata, Hukta, Huvarstha,"

Khodafez
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
Hi Agnes

I don’t know if you’ve already left or if you’re about to, but some unrest seems to be spreading across the country.

The agency canceled the trip.

Catherine

Hang in there, the CIA will blow everything up soon and the destination will be chic again.
UN UnaMilanese Veteran ·
https://youtu.be/k26EmbLQR3I?si=fKJX8kbinx8kNYix

A spring morning in the garden in front of the Golestan. The white-eared bulbuls are singing. Ali Khamenei and Donald Trump stand facing each other across the canal. They take up their firearms, step back three paces, and fire. Two dead. The sweepers come by and push the bodies into the basin. Excellent for feeding the carp, which love larvae, mollusks, and other worms.

Have a good evening.

Catherine
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
If only it stopped at 2 deaths, that’d be ideal 😅

Lovely tune from the white-eared bubul.
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
For now, Khamenei has taken refuge in his bunker... What’s he afraid of, since according to him, all his people are behind him?
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi Agnes,

I think, as is often the case, you underestimate the strength of nations and nationalisms. There are probably fewer Iranians than you might think who want the United States to overthrow the regime like this.

Michel
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
You mean to say the mullahs have already killed them all?

The regime will fall. Its main financier is spending too much money in Ukraine. It can’t be everywhere at once. As for the Chinese dictator, he’s cautious. His regime holds on thanks to the enrichment of its population. If prosperity vanishes, trouble starts... So he’s betting on a certain level of global economic stability.

After all, you only risk your life for a cause you believe in. The driving force behind the Revolutionary Guards seems to be money or power rather than any god. If they sense the tide turning...

Why did Maduro fall? Uncle Sam had deeper pockets.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Yeah, I find your analysis shockingly naive and so over-the-top. What happened after the interventions in Libya, Syria, and Iraq? We’ll see in a year or two, but I don’t think your future trip to Iran is gonna happen.

Michel

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