As usual, I’m posting a new travel journal about our trip to Norway last September.
This one will span several months, with a day-by-day account of our adventure. I won’t be posting many photos on the forum (the publishing rules have become even more complicated since my last journal), but you can find all the shots on my blog (address in my signature).
We’ve just returned from a truly extraordinary, unforgettable trip.
Planning this trip wasn’t easy, and I’ll admit I struggled to decide on the itinerary… Should we take the Hurtigruten all the way from the south to the north? But a whole trip by boat didn’t really appeal to us. Or focus on the south in the fjord region? But that would mean missing out on the Lofoten Islands…
In the end, we chose to concentrate on southern Norway, exploring the coast and fjords, while including a stop in Oslo and mixing train, boat, and car travel.
I also opted for a trip where we’d drive less than in previous years (1,650 km compared to 2,000 km in Portugal and 3,800 km in the American West), but we’d still move around a bit and do some hikes.
Here’s the itinerary we followed:
This trip was absolutely amazing and introduced us to so many things we’d never seen or done before—fjords, a night on a boat, glaciers, stave churches, snow in summer (…and the high cost of living!).
If we had to sum up our top highlights, here’s our top 3:
Mr.:
the variety of landscapes
the colors, especially the colors of the water—from crystal clear to light blue and turquoise in some spots
eating good fish
Mrs.:
the roads: the ones in the area we explored were truly stunning
Geirangerfjord, especially in the late afternoon, when it was quiet and free of cruise ships
the Trolltunga hike: a challenging trek and a little personal achievement for us
What we liked less:
the sometimes inconsistent signage on hikes
the cost of living (everything costs money, and even food is expensive)
the tunnels: there are so many, and they’re not much fun (except for one with a roundabout inside…!)
That’s it for this first summary/overview, and I can already tell that choosing photos is going to be tough!!! Here’s a little preview of what we discovered:
To see the photos in full size on my blog: check it out here
Day 1 - Arrival in Oslo
This vacation was really long-awaited this year. We’re starting it exhausted but with high hopes for the landscapes and this new country we’re about to discover.
The flight leaves from terminal 2G at Roissy Airport—a small, pretty quiet terminal that’s actually quite nice. The flight goes smoothly all the way to Oslo.
The airport is about half an hour from the city center by train, which also happens to be the most economical option. We buy our tickets from a machine and wait for our train, which arrives shortly. The train has rows of 3 seats… quite a change from our usual trains!
We then take a tram from the central station to our hotel. It’s right in the embassy district—a pretty upscale area! We drop off our bags and head out to explore the neighborhood, making our way toward the harbor. The sun is out, and it’s really pleasant.
We discover the city’s architecture, which sometimes reminds us of the Netherlands, sometimes London…
… and even Barcelona as we approach the harbor!
For dinner tonight, I’d spotted a great little restaurant before we left, and we really didn’t regret our choice! The occasion was a bit special—today we’re celebrating our 5th wedding anniversary—so I wanted to make it memorable. The atmosphere at Hos Thea is really pleasant, the staff is super friendly (we were each given a glass of wine and a glass of champagne), and the food was delicious (though the bill was a bit steep… but that’s Norway for you!). All in all, a fantastic evening and a beautiful memory.
After dinner, we take advantage of the lovely evening to head back to the harbor and enjoy the view.
We take a few photos, wander around the neighborhood, and are drawn to some noise coming from an outdoor bar. The closer we get, the more we realize what’s going on—it’s actually an open-air cinema! A great terrace overlooks a sort of beach where dozens of people are settled in, watching… *Dirty Dancing*!! People are clapping, girls are screaming “ooohhh” during the iconic scenes… the movie’s in English, but it doesn’t matter—like all girls, I know the lines by heart. It’s really fun and kind of surreal to be there with complete strangers who know and have seen this movie dozens of times, just like us… and to think this is probably happening all over the world!
After this unique moment, we head back to bed… this trip is off to a great start!
If you’d like more details about the sights, our hotel, or to see more photos, check out my blog: Day 1 - Arrival in Oslo
Hi there,
I’ll be following your travel journal with great interest—our trip to Norway last year was amazing, and I’m definitely planning to go back! 🙂
Thanks for your enthusiasm and your sweet note. I totally get your urge to go back—I’d love to return too! The word that comes up most when I talk about this trip is "unbelievable." The landscapes, the colors... 🙂
For now, I’m just looking back at my photos—it makes me feel like I’m traveling all over again! 😉
Today we spent our very first full day in Oslo. After a hearty breakfast, we headed to the Royal Palace and its park, Slottsparken. The weather was a bit overcast, but it wasn’t cold.
It was 10 AM, and we arrived just in time for the changing of the guard. It was a simplified version (since it was Sunday morning), much less strict and spectacular than the one in London, but still nice to see (the one we’ll see tomorrow at 1:30 PM will be a bit more impressive). Here, the guards are allowed to move their heads, which they do regularly to observe their surroundings and make sure everything’s okay.
We headed back to the harbor and made our way to Akershusstranda to take some photos of the docked boats before reaching the Defence Museum, Forsvarsmuseet. We passed by the famous Nobel Peace Center, where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year.
The visit to the Defence Museum was enjoyable, with a really cool collection covering a period from the early days of the Norwegian army to today. My partner, who’s passionate about the military (this museum was part of the reason we came to Oslo), was thrilled!
The late morning was spent on a long walk in the park of Akershus Fortress. We discovered some quirky statues and a peaceful spot that was lovely to explore. After that, we decided to visit the Akershus Palace. The visit was really enjoyable and I loved it.
It was almost 2 PM when we left the palace… we found a little snack bar that served sandwiches and coffee. There weren’t many people, but the "traveler" vibe of the place really appealed to us… even though the food was pricey (which isn’t the place’s fault—everything’s expensive in this country). When we left, full and rested, the sun still hadn’t decided to come out…
We made our way to the Opera House, a massive iceberg-like building inaugurated in 2008. The interior and the roof are free to access. The sloping roof offers a great view of Oslo Fjord. The inside is stunning—bright, with a mix of white and wood, and geometric shapes that are definitely worth seeing.
Still on foot, we decided to head a bit further north, crossing the city to reach the Fredensborg district and its amazing street art on Brenneriveien street.
Along the way, we stopped at Oslo Cathedral, Oslo Domkirke. This cathedral is surrounded by arcades housing little shops, restaurants, and cafés. It’s surprisingly small compared to others we’ve visited so far, but its magnificent ceiling is worth a look (entry is free).
It started raining, so we headed back to the city center. We bought dinner at a Deli de Luca (pasta and other items sold by weight) and walked back to the hotel, exhausted.
The day was tiring, packed with great visits, but Oslo won’t be making it into our top 3 favorite cities.
For more info (practical tips under "En pratique" at the bottom of the article) or photos, check it out here: Day 2 - Exploring the Norwegian Capital
Last day of sightseeing in Oslo! And even though the title suggests it, we won’t be visiting the Nobel Peace Center today!
This morning, we’re changing neighborhoods to explore some charming colorful houses. Two different districts await us, a bit off the beaten path—especially the last one—which promises a good morning of walking.
We start by heading to Our Saviour’s Cemetery, Vår frelsers gravlunf (impossible to spell…). This first encounter with a Norwegian cemetery is surprising: it’s covered in grass, and the gravestones seem randomly placed. There’s no real order, and you can go anywhere. It feels a bit like a *Addams Family* remake, especially with the gray sky and a few raindrops disrupting our visit.
Next, we head to the pretty neighborhoods adjacent to the cemetery: Telthusbakken and Bergfjerdingen. The colorful wooden houses line the sloping streets. We’re almost alone, except for a few locals wandering around—we enjoy having the streets all to ourselves. Each house has a different facade and color, some built right next to a tree, and the cobblestone streets give the area an old-world charm.
Finally, we end the morning in Rodeløkka, which we reach on foot (it’s a bit far, let’s be honest!). Another cool neighborhood (which we doubted we’d find, as it’s "hidden" among apartment buildings), with more charming colorful wooden houses. It was worth the detour!
Now that we’ve visited this neighborhood at the end of the world, we have to head back… We run into some trouble finding a kiosk to buy tickets but eventually succeed after a few failed attempts! Back in the city center, we wander a bit and grab a bite at a King Burger (not glorious, but we didn’t find a grocery store along the way, and it’s not too expensive!). After that, we pass by the Parliament before heading to the Royal Palace to watch the changing of the guard, which takes place at 1:30 PM. We’d already seen a small version yesterday (see here), but that was on a Sunday morning… we’re hoping for a better show today. Unlike yesterday, the ceremony is more impressive—there are lots of soldiers, and two of them have bugles (though they don’t play them). It was way cooler than yesterday!
This afternoon, we decide to visit a museum in Bygdøy, a peninsula west of the city center. To get there, we take a boat that shuttles back and forth from the harbor several times a day. We head to the Fram Museum, which we’ve been wanting to see. We don’t realize how big the exhibit is and think it’s a small museum… so when they offer us a combined ticket for the Fram Museum + the Norwegian Maritime Museum, we say yes. Big mistake—the Fram Museum is *huge*, and the other museum, unless you’re a maritime enthusiast, is less interesting.
Anyway, we enter the Fram Museum and immediately see the ship—*the entire ship*—inside! The museum covers the Fram expedition, a polar maritime journey that left Oslo to reach the North Pole in the late 19th century. The Fram is the ship from that expedition, proudly displayed in the museum. It was specially designed to withstand ice pressure because the idea was to let the ship get "trapped" and carried by the ice to the North Pole via the drift of the pack ice…
This museum was a fantastic discovery. The visit is both educational and enjoyable.
Of course, you can explore the inside of the ship and imagine these men, over a century ago, setting off on an adventure to the North Pole without today’s technology—believing in it and succeeding… Fascinating!
After a quick tour of the other museum, we walk back to Pier 1 to catch the return shuttle. The sun comes out, so we sit for a bit to soak it up and recharge our batteries.
In the late afternoon, I drag us to a bar I’d spotted before leaving: the Magic Ice Bar. It’s nothing more or less than a giant freezer where you can have a drink. After paying the entrance fee, we gear up with gloves and capes provided on-site. We go through an airlock to maintain the temperature inside, then enter the bar itself. Everything here is made of ice: the furniture, the glasses, and ice sculptures. Obviously, it’s not warm, but the idea is super fun and cool!
When we leave, we grab some food (again at a Deli de Luca, since there’s one near the bar) before heading back to the hotel.
All in all, we discovered beautiful, typically Norwegian architecture *and* an amazing museum… what a great day!
For more details on the visits or to see more photos, check it out here: Day 3 - The Nobel Prize City.
Hi there,
Thanks for your message! And thanks for your help during the planning phase! Your tips, along with those from other members, really helped me out. 😉
I get why you're interested in the landscapes... This country is simply incredible!
Day 4 - Onboard the train from Oslo to Bergen
Today we’re leaving Oslo for Bergen by train. We’re really looking forward to this train journey (said to be one of the most beautiful in the world), especially since Oslo didn’t quite win us over. While we made some nice discoveries in the capital, we didn’t find it particularly charming, and it didn’t feel like a typical Norwegian city.
Our train departs at 12:03 PM from Oslo Station and arrives in Bergen at 6:58 PM, so we take our time for breakfast, grab a few groceries for the train ride, and have a coffee at the station. Unlike the SNCF, the Norwegian rail service displays train info nearly an hour before departure, which lets us settle in calmly and avoid the last-minute rush.
A long afternoon of travel awaits us, with stunning landscapes, plenty of legroom, all in a clean and quiet train.
The train departs, winds its way out of the city, and we notice trampolines in almost every garden! After about 2 hours, the scenery starts getting really beautiful.
From one valley to the next, the weather shifts dramatically—gray and rainy one minute, bright sunshine the next. It’s pretty impressive!
The train sometimes runs at the same level as the fjords, which is also quite a sight!
We reach the highest point of the route at 1,237 meters above sea level, on the Hardangervidda plateau. The highest station is Finse, at 1,222 meters. Snow is visible on the plateau, and while the mist is thick, the sun occasionally peeks through.
The descent is under rain, through forests and lush green landscapes.
We lose the sun-and-rain game—it’s pouring when we arrive in Bergen. After a 15-minute walk, we reach our hotel soaked (a little tip I’d recommend: bring a large zip-lock bag to protect city maps or hiking maps—it came in handy a few times during our trip).
We do a quick load of laundry and grab a bite in our room before heading back out to explore Bergen, now that the rain has stopped (for now).
A lovely end to the day before we rest up—tomorrow we plan to visit the city.
If you’d like to see more photos, check them out here: Day 4 - Onboard the train... from Oslo to Bergen.
Thanks for taking a look! See you soon.
I love your photos—they’re so well-framed, and you really capture the beauty of this amazing country! Keep it up (I checked out your blog).
Try visiting in winter for the northern lights—it’s magical!
My whole family loves this country; some of us even dream of living there. The nature is so stunning, and the people are so friendly.
I’ll be following along…
Raf.
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
A huge thank you for your kind words!
I totally get your enthusiasm for this country... we really found it extraordinary.
Definitely, going back in winter to see the northern lights is on our (long) travel list... probably in a few years! 😉
Back in my day (in 1975), we visited other museums besides the Fram: the Kon-Tiki; the one with the longships, the Vikingskipshuset; an open-air museum of Norwegian houses, the Norsk Folkemuseum; and especially the very surprising Vigeland Park. Are they still around?
Georges G.
(Mes commentaires et mes photos sont issus de mon vécu réel,
mes peintures, elles, de mes souvenirs fantasmés)
We didn’t visit these museums (given the time we spent in the city and the cost of living in Norway), but from what I found online, they’re still there!
Day 5: Bergen, the City Where It Rains 300 Days a Year
Hi there! I'm back with the next part of the story, and it's a wet one! Yes, it's not just a legend—it rains a lot in Bergen!!
First morning in Bergen! We woke up early, but the hearty breakfast helped us shake off the sleep.
This morning, we planned to see Bergen from above! Our nighttime visit the evening before had let us discover the funicular and its pretty lights.
We quickly headed to the visitor center by the harbor to pick up the hiking booklet for Mount Fløyen. The Fløibanen funicular took us to the top, offering a stunning view of the city..
Below, we spotted the mountain’s cute residents, who were also likely soaking in the amazing view! We started our little hike with rain and wind that wouldn’t really let up all day.. We had the trail to ourselves, walking through a forest that felt a bit enchanted and mysterious. The trail markers weren’t great (this first "so-so marking" experience would be confirmed on all the hikes during our trip), but we always found our way back to the right path!
By late morning, we headed back down and set off to explore the Bryggen district, the oldest part of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Several fires have destroyed this area of wooden houses, which were rebuilt using old methods. A few changes have still been made—while it used to be the Hanseatic League’s district, it’s now more of a place where artists display their work.
After grabbing a few groceries from a small supermarket and eating a meal in our room to stay dry, we set off to discover another part of Bergen: Nordnes. We found some really pretty wooden houses there, white or colorful—so Norway!
By late afternoon, we headed back down to the harbor—the weather was awful! It was pouring rain, with strong gusts of wind, but we didn’t care. We’d decided to wait for the arrival of the cycling race "Tour des Fjords." We’re not big cycling fans, but the atmosphere was nice despite the weather, especially since they were handing out delicious salmon and lemon foil packets!
We didn’t know the winner (clearly not a French rider—I think), but it was still fun to watch.
To wrap up this rainy day, we took one last stroll around the harbor, where we saw how they cut up a huge tuna—impressive!
We finally got back to the hotel exhausted and soaked! In our room, everything that could be used to hang up our wet clothes was put to work!!
The city has a lot of charm and a really appealing architecture, even if the weather did kind of ruin the visit, I have to admit.
Have a great Sunday!
If you want to see more photos or get details about our visits: Day 5: Bergen, the City Where It Rains 300 Days a Year
Thanks for joining us! See you soon!
Woke up at 8 AM! We’d already seen quite a bit of Bergen, and since we had to pick up our ride in the early afternoon, we took it easy—no packed schedule today. We did some grocery shopping for meals over the next day or so, picked up a few souvenir trinkets, and went for a stroll.
A quick walk along Bergen’s now-famous quayside…
Then we headed to Torgallmennigen square, where a young woman was blowing giant soap bubbles to entertain passersby. After that, we visited Johanneskirken church—so imposing from the outside and just as impressive inside. The wooden ceiling and massive organ are definitely worth seeing!
After our little city tour, we went back to the hotel to grab our suitcases, then took the bus to pick up our rental car. Everything went smoothly, and we ended up with a cute two-tone Fiat 500L—super nice!
Since it was still a bit early, we decided to head to a shopping mall. We somehow managed to kill time before making our way to the port for boarding the Hurtigruten. I’ve been dreaming of this moment for months—thinking about the Hurtigruten for years, actually. And now, here we are!
Boarding was scheduled for 6 PM, but we could check in and load our luggage as early as 5 PM. After a quick safety briefing, we were allowed on board. At 6 PM, it was time to load the car (only one person could go get it—my husband drew the short straw!). We set off to find our cabin. Eventually, we did: a small windowless cabin at the very front of the ship, on the lowest deck. I wasn’t feeling quite so brave when I spotted a huge watertight door in the hallway—apparently for sealing the ship in case of an emergency. And then there was the Bible in the cabin drawer… not exactly reassuring!
Our luggage had already been delivered to the cabin, so we set off to explore the ship. We were like kids, running up and down the decks to check out our new “home” for the next 24 hours.
We were supposed to depart at 8 PM, but by 9 PM, the ship was still docked. After a quick meal in the cabin, we went back out—only to realize the ship had just left! We didn’t even notice!
It was still raining in Bergen (as expected!), so we wandered around the ship, trying to figure out where all the staircases led—no easy task! After grabbing a beer at the bar, we discovered a cozy lounge with an elevator (who knew ships had elevators?).
This was our first time on a boat for such a long stretch—actually living and sleeping on it. The rocking motion felt a little strange, but we were so excited about this new experience!
It was hard to believe we were really on a ship when we went to bed that night.
If you want to see more photos, check them out here: Day 6: Boarding Day
With just a few days left in the year, I’m back to share the next part of the adventure... Today, I’m taking you right into the heart of the matter: the Norwegian fjords, discovered aboard the Hurtigruten.
Day 7 - Aboard the Hurtigruten...
I woke up at 6:45 AM to enjoy the breakfast room in peace before the crowd arrived. We slept terribly—me haunted by the catastrophic endings of *Titanic* and *The Perfect Storm*, and my partner woken up by the noise and vibrations of the boat. In short, the night was short and not very restful (but we still don’t regret taking the boat!).
We were right to get up early: the dining room was calm, and we could sit by the porthole to watch the landscape go by before heading to the stern to keep watch.
The weather was very foggy, making it a bit hard to see the scenery, but we could make out the expanse of water and the fjords taking shape.
We spent the morning outside the cabin, bundled up in our coats, braving the cold and fog. We were almost alone out there, enjoying the quiet moment to admire the view (and lose the cap of my lens—oops!!).
The showers eventually wore down our determination. Around 8:30 AM, we reached Ålesund. Some people disembarked, others boarded. We stayed on the boat—we wouldn’t get off in Ålesund until this evening, after a day of exploring the Hjørundfjord.
We had an early lunch to avoid the crowd and catch the first small shuttle to Urke, a tiny village of about fifty residents, with around ten people working there.
After disembarking, we headed to a viewpoint that gave us a higher perspective of the Norangsfjord, a small arm of the Hjørundfjord. Along the way, we discovered the village’s small farms and houses. Everything was calm, peaceful, and quiet. The clouds settled like cotton on the mountains and trees.
Despite the threatening weather, the showers started up again. The rest of the visit was spent dodging raindrops, but the village kept its charm.
We eventually spotted some unlisted residents: the sheep. They were just as peaceful, grazing in a stunning setting.
Around 1:30 PM, we boarded the last shuttle back to our boat. It was time to head back to Ålesund. We were lucky—the entire return trip was rain-free, and we even got a bit of sunshine. It was gorgeous!
Around 5 PM, we docked in Ålesund. I unloaded our suitcases while my partner got the car. The hotel was just a few minutes away. We parked and discovered our huge room with a view of the harbor. We didn’t linger in the hotel and hurried out to explore the city, taking advantage of a lull in the weather.
From the harbor, we got a few views of the city and its surprising Art Nouveau style.
We ended the day with a good beer at Dirty Nelly, a pub with a super fun atmosphere and decor.
We went back to the hotel to eat our sandwiches and turned in early—my inner ear was playing tricks on me, making me feel like I was still on the boat, swaying.
If you want to see more photos and practical info, check it out here: Day 7 - Aboard the Hurtigruten
Hello everyone! Wishing you all a wonderful year filled with amazing travels and discoveries!
Day 8 - Visit to Ålesund
First of all, I wish you all a happy and wonderful New Year—may it bring you lots of happiness.
But since a good year for us is one filled with travel, I’m taking you back to Norway, to Ålesund. That’s where we arrived the night before.
After a good night’s rest and a really hearty breakfast, we’re enjoying the beautiful sunshine flooding the city. Just a little stroll with no set destination or planned visit—just wandering around.
Next, we head up Mount Aksla to its viewpoint, Fjellstua.
The climb is via a staircase of 418 steps! The ascent starts in a lovely park and continues along the mountainside. The stairs are well-maintained, with benches and platforms spaced regularly along the way.
At the top, we’re rewarded with a stunning view of the city sprawling right into the water.
To head back down, we take a different route than the one we came up. Part of the way is through the forest or surrounded by greenery. Once at the bottom, we reach a part of the city we hadn’t seen yet—with its colorful wooden houses, each more beautiful than the last. We also find a street that reminds us of San Francisco’s Lombard Street, just smaller!
Along the way, we buy some local fruit from a vendor at a small market. By early afternoon, the weather takes a sudden turn. We dash into a Kiwi supermarket to grab some groceries in the pouring rain and under a gloomy sky. The weather doesn’t improve for the rest of the afternoon, keeping us indoors and cutting our sightseeing short.
By the end of the day, things calm down a bit, so we head out for a drink before heading back in the rain.
A short day today—we’ll make up for it (and then some) tomorrow. We also took the chance to rest up after our very short night on the boat.
See you soon!
For more photos and practical info, check it out here: Day 8 - Visit to Ålesund
Thanks for stopping by!
See you soon!
This morning, the sky is a light gray. After a good breakfast, we hit the road. Following the train, boat, and city, here’s the start of our road-trip adventure to discover Norway’s extraordinary landscapes. First things first—if you’re planning a trip to Norway too, don’t overpack your itinerary with visits, and plan for shorter drives. For example, on this first day behind the wheel, it took us 7 hours to cover 200 km because there were so many stunning landscapes to see and photograph.
Leaving Ålesund this morning, we had no idea we were in for such a visual treat!
After a forced detour due to a cycling race, we continue toward Andalsnes.
The rain starts falling again, but that doesn’t stop us from making regular stops to take photos. The landscapes are incredible, and every stop reveals places and views we’ve never seen before. The colors, the greenery, the reflections in the fjords—it’s all truly beautiful, even under a gray sky!
After Andalsnes, we head toward Trollstigen, or the “Trolls’ Ladder.” We’re definitely in troll country—they’re everywhere, from souvenir shops to the road itself! When we arrive at the base of Trollstigen, we’re really disappointed—it’s literally in the clouds, and we can’t even see it. After just a few minutes, though, the clouds start to lift. We decide to stop for a bit and have a picnic while we wait for the road to clear.
We’d spotted a short 2 km hike we were ready to do while waiting, but the clouds end up disappearing completely—off to Trollstigen! We’ll notice this several times during the trip: the weather changes quickly here, and sometimes all it takes is a little patience for the horizon to clear.
Trollstigen is a steep road with lots of hairpin turns and a massive waterfall running through it. We stop several times along the way to admire the cascade and the valley views. By the time we reach the top, it’s almost sunny. We park the car in a large (free) parking lot. There are a few souvenir shops and a paved path with stairs leading to platforms overlooking the road.
The view from up here is absolutely breathtaking! This road is truly impressive, and the valley is stunning.
After a quick stop in a shop where we meet the owner—a 22-year-old French guy on a world trip who decided to settle in Norway for a while—we get back on the road. We make several stops along the way to better enjoy and observe the nature, which offers incredible colors.
When we arrive in Linge, we take our very first ferry. The system is well thought out: numbered rows are marked on the ground, and cars line up one after another, filling row 1 first, then row 2, and so on. The boat finally arrives, opens its large “jaws,” and “swallows” us. It drops us off in Eidsdal after a short ten-minute crossing.
We continue toward the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We reach it from the Ørnevegen (Eagle Road) coming from the north, which gives us a fantastic view of the fjord. To top it off, the sun is out!
Around 5 PM, we arrive at our host’s place. He’s really nice and speaks French, which makes conversation much easier and lets us ask questions more freely.
In the house, shoes are not allowed, so he lends us some sandals—so sexy!
The typical Norwegian house overlooks the fjord, offering an incredible view from the window. We settle in quietly and relax a bit before heading back down to the village.
The large cruise ship that had been anchored in the fjord since our arrival finally leaves, blasting its foghorn—the sound echoes impressively through the fjord.
Once again, visiting the country off-season has a clear advantage: there’s almost no one around, so we can really enjoy the village and its small harbor. The serene atmosphere of the place is very appealing. The almost-perfect reflections in the blue-green waters of the fjord are striking.
We eventually head back to our little wooden house. We go outside to sit in the garden and try to take some night photos. We don’t really succeed (we’ll need to practice a bit more!), but it lets us experience the place in near-total darkness and silence, and hear the truly impressive sound of the many waterfalls pouring into the fjord.
This day was absolutely amazing—we go to bed with so many beautiful images in our heads!
If you want to see more photos, check them out here: Day 9 – The Trollstigen Road
Woke up at 7:30 AM, took a quick peek out the window… the weather is gorgeous! It’s the first time we’ve had a clear blue sky since we arrived in Norway! We’re savoring our luck: today is all about hiking.
We head to the other side of the fjord, to Hom, for the starting point of our first hike. Parking isn’t that easy—the road is narrow, and parking is banned in some spots… we finally find a spot and wonder how it must be in peak season when there are more cars…
This hike isn’t as easy as we thought. We start with a steep path with sections on wet, slippery rock. Once we reach the top of this first climb, the view of the Geirangerfjord is absolutely stunning.
We continue our route through the forest. The path is steep, long, and sometimes a bit tricky.
We eventually decide not to finish this first hike, choosing to turn back so we have time for another hike this afternoon.
We pass through the village center to grab a few groceries at the supermarket. We take the chance to have a picnic by the fjord. The weather is nice, it’s really pleasant, and we enjoy this lovely moment.
From the house where we dropped off our groceries, we set off on foot for the second hike. The path is pleasant and lets us scout the route to the restaurant for tonight. The sky starts to cloud over, but nothing serious.
This 2 km hike, much easier and shorter, is supposed to take us to Storseterfossen, a large waterfall. Along the way, we come across sheep resting while grazing on the grass within reach.
We finally hear the loud sound of water, spot the waterfall from a distance… and make out tiny-looking people next to this massive waterfall! It’s impressive to hear and see!!
We’re only on the other side of the fjord, but the landscapes are so different from this morning… here, the area is lush and green—it’s incredible. We descend along the small path carved into the rock, allowing us to go behind the waterfall. The 300-meter waterfall is even more impressive from this side! Time is passing, so we head back down toward the starting point. We don’t take the exact same path as on the way up—bad idea! The path is just as tough as this morning’s, full of mud and very slippery.
We finally make it back and return to our host, who makes my partner do some stretches and offers him a pine-scented foot bath!
After a good shower, we set off on foot to the restaurant. It’s an old farm with a stunning view of the fjord… another great moment, especially since the food is delicious.
We head back as night falls, exhausted from this day of hiking.
For practical info and photos, meet up here: J10 - Exploring the Geirangerfjord
Day 11: On the Historic Route 258
After saying goodbye to our host, we hit the road toward Olden, further south. Before leaving, our host strongly recommends taking Route 258 between Grotli and Stryn instead of the tunnel—shorter, sure, but far less interesting. So, we take their advice. The road before Grotli takes us through landscapes that change rapidly. In less than an hour, we find ourselves in lunar-like scenery, very rocky, with stunning gray and green hues. The wind picks up, it’s cold, but we savor our luck to be here, almost alone to enjoy it.
Along the way, we stop at the Dalsnibba viewpoint. The road is toll-based, but the view is absolutely worth it. It starts raining, but that doesn’t really spoil the journey, which takes us through extraordinary landscapes.
We descend and continue driving. The scenery shifts as we go, skirting vast stretches of water—wow! We’re loving it!
We finally reach Route 258 at Grotli. The road isn’t paved, but it’s so breathtaking that we never feel like speeding—we stop constantly to take in the views and snap photos.
We pass lakes with striking turquoise waters, drive through vegetation in equally incredible colors—we’re in paradise!
Of course, it starts raining again, but in return, we’re treated to a gorgeous rainbow.
The road is about 20-25 km long, and it takes us 1.5 hours to cover it! Between a picnic stop in the middle of nowhere (magical!) and photo breaks every 5 minutes, we make the most of it!
We leave Route 258 to take the main road again and decide to stop once more for photos. We spot sheep in the distance. I slowly approach to take a picture when one of them notices me from afar. It starts walking toward me gently, then picks up the pace until it’s galloping...
I obviously start running, but that animal is fast!! Its friends join in—big scare for me! In the end, they weren’t trying to attack us, just checking if we had any food to give them (but they left empty-hoofed!).
There’s just under an hour of driving left, first through a steep valley, then skimming the fjord.
By late afternoon, we arrive in Olden, the village where we’ll be staying for the next two nights. We’re a little disappointed to find our campsite right by the road—we were expecting to be in the middle of nowhere...
Still, the place is nice, and the view from our room is really not bad at all!
We settle in and start some laundry while enjoying a little apéritif in our room.
A quiet end to a day so full of adventure...
More info and photos here: Day 11: On the Historic Route 258
Day 12 – Exploring the Glaciers
This morning, we wake up facing the fjord, invaded by two enormous cruise ships. We’ve already wondered about taking a cruise someday, but I think this Norwegian experience has made us a bit hesitant (or maybe just on a smaller boat!). After a good breakfast and a few photos of our vacation spot in this perfect setting, we prepare the day’s program.
We plan to explore two glaciers, easily accessible from Olden. These two glacier tongues come from the Jostedalsbreen, Europe’s largest ice cap, covering around 480 km². Off we go!
Along the Lodalen Valley, we follow the shore of Lovatnet, a stunning glacial lake with incredible colors (no filter needed on these photos). In the middle of the lake, you can spot a few small “islands” formed by falling rock blocks (some of which have been deadly).
The road is sometimes very narrow, making us wonder how it must be in the summer when buses pass each other.
The end of the road leads us to the entrance of Kjenndalsbreen. We pass through a small, unmanned toll booth—the Norwegians must assume people are responsible and honest. At first, we struggle to understand how it works, but it’s actually quite simple: just write your license plate number on the envelope (which has carbon paper so you can keep a copy to place behind your windshield), insert the money, and seal it. The envelope then goes into a box.
After parting with 40 kroner, we continue the last stretch of road to a parking lot where we leave our car.
After a short walk at the foot of the glacier (it’s too high for us to reach), we turn back (the glacier is a dead end). Everything is closed—the tourist season has just ended, and there’s no one around except a few employees from what seems to be a restaurant/canoe rental spot. We’re a little disappointed because we thought we could rent one—nope, it’s “closed”!
We console ourselves with the incredible view, which we decide to admire quietly during our picnic break. We soak in the tranquility, serenity, colors, and fabulous scenery! The water’s color seems so unreal—it’s truly mesmerizing!
We head back through Olden to go a bit further south and reach another arm of the glacier: Briksdalsbreen.
In just an hour’s drive, the landscapes change completely compared to this morning—it’s amazing!
We leave the car in the designated parking lot, which is also paid. At the start, there are two paths: one for pedestrians, the other for “troll cars.” We set off on foot to reach the glacier. This time, we’re not alone—there are a few other tourists, some on foot like us, others in groups in the famous “troll cars.” The path is well-marked; we won’t get lost here… unless we foolishly follow a sign at a crossroads, thinking it’s the way to the glacier.
Off we go on a hike—flat but a bit muddy at first, then through a dense forest with rough terrain, fallen trees, rocks, and all the rest. We finally emerge from the forest onto a huge, steep rock. We climb and discover the breathtaking view of the lake and glacier. After a good hour of climbing, we realize we’re not actually getting closer to the glacier (just going up and away from it), so we turn back.
Back at the crossroads, we take the right path this time, not giving up, and set off to (hopefully!) discover the glacier. The valley is lush and green, covered in grass and filled with trees—it’s an impressive setting.
This time, we make it all the way! The sight was absolutely worth seeing up close, and all our afternoon efforts are rewarded the minute we reach the edge of the lake. There’s only one family there, like us, enjoying the view and taking souvenir photos.
On the way back, we take advantage of the nearly empty path to snap some photos of the enormous waterfall from below. We learn that 10,000 liters of water fall every second—yikes!
We return to Olden after a quick stop for supplies on the way.
Another truly beautiful day, with colors we’d never seen in real life before!
For practical info and photos, check it out here: Day 12 – Exploring the Glaciers
We woke up at dawn this morning—we’ve got a long drive ahead and plenty of beautiful sights to discover (though we don’t know that yet). We backtracked and took the tunnel we’d skipped a few days ago, opting instead for the Route 258. After exiting the tunnel, we headed south and, after passing Grotli, continued toward Lom. Along the way, we met some new friends 🐑 and discovered autumn landscapes that reminded us of Canada in places—even though we’ve never actually been there.
We arrived in Lom, which I’d noted on our itinerary for its stave church. Unfortunately, we saw a sign and a group of people outside, letting us know the church was closed for a funeral. It wouldn’t reopen until 1 PM, so we left disappointed we couldn’t visit.
We took Route 55, or Sognefjellet, Europe’s highest road, built in 1939 by unemployed workers. The first part of the route took us through forests, tiny charming churches, and already offered some lovely viewpoints. But the real highlight came at the top, where snow lined the road and turned the blue/green/yellow landscapes into something like a watercolor painting.
We were incredibly lucky—the sun was gorgeous, letting us soak in the scenery to the fullest. We got out of the car to walk right up to the rocks and water expanses. Everything was stunning, the landscapes breathtaking—we couldn’t get over it! We even took the chance to touch the big snow blocks melting from underneath to feed the lakes.
In Skjolden, we turned off to follow the southern shore of the Lustrafjorden toward Urnes. This narrow little road with unlit tunnels was a bit tiring, especially since we’d gotten up so early. We stopped along the way for a quick nap before continuing, refreshed.
Urnes is a tiny village known for its own stave church. Though it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, the entry fee seemed a bit steep, so we decided to just walk around it—oh well, no inside visit! As we stepped back, we realized how beautiful the setting was: a nearly black church standing out against a gorgeous green and turquoise backdrop.
We headed to the Urnes ferry dock to catch the boat to Solvorn, just across the Lustrafjord. We missed one ferry by minutes, but no rush—we had time to wait for the next.
There was a little hut with trays of fruit for sale, self-service style. A sign listed the prices, and a small metal box was ready for coins—we couldn’t believe our eyes! We grabbed a little tray of plums to use as a cheap snack and dessert for the next few days.
The ferry came back, and we got ready to board. This time, it was a bit unusual—we backed into the boat! Naturally, first on meant last off (not a big deal, since there were only five cars!).
Arriving in Solvorn was amazing—the village, though small, looked really charming from here.
Tonight, we’re staying here. We found our accommodation quickly in this tiny village. The guesthouse is at the top of the orchard cultivated by our hosts. They’re super nice, the house is really cozy, and we feel right at home!
The window in our room looks out over the fjord and the village—it’s gorgeous!
We settled in quickly and wandered around the village.
Back at the house, with a stunning view of the fjord.
We met a young French couple and chatted with them for a bit before getting dinner ready.
Today was packed again, and Route 55 is one of my best memories from this trip!
For practical info and all the photos, check it out here: Day 13 – On Europe’s Highest Mountain Road
I’m still following your travel journal with great pleasure! 🙂
And I’m discovering spots we hadn’t been to that are absolutely stunning, like Kjenndalsbreen.
It’s certain—I’ll have to go back to Norway because the landscapes there are extraordinary. I especially hope to return to the Lofoten Islands. If you’re planning another trip to Norway in the coming years, make sure to include them in your itinerary—the scenery there is among the most beautiful I’ve seen so far.
Thanks so much for your message!! 🙂
Yes, we’re planning to visit Norway again, including the Lofoten Islands, during the northern lights season. We were thinking of going in October, but apparently, that’s the worst time weather-wise... We’ll have to think about another time!
Hello again! I'm back with the next installment!
Day 14: Another day among the glaciers
This morning, the glaciers are waiting for us! The view of the fjord from the living room is still just as breathtaking—we take the time to enjoy a peaceful breakfast with this extraordinary view.
I booked a glacier hike on Nigardsbreen a few days earlier. So, we hit the road toward the Visitor Center. There’s a bit of mist, the sky is gray, but it’s not bothersome and even adds a mysterious touch that we really like.
We arrive at the Breheimsenteret, the glacier’s visitor center. It has a funny helmet-like shape that we love. The employee tells us we’re late and need to hurry so we don’t miss our group—what?! We thought we were on time... He informs us there’s still a ten-minute drive to the glacier parking lot, then about a 45-minute walk to the foot of the glacier.
When we arrive at the parking lot, we don’t see anyone or anything, but we spot a group that’s already started the hike to reach the foot of the glacier.
We rush to catch up, thinking we’re really late. In 35 minutes, we reach them—but the guide tells us it’s not our group, that the meet-up spot is at the parking lot, and that he can’t help us because all the equipment is in a cabin there—no!!! What a letdown!
It’s clearly stated on the website and the ticket that the parking lot is the meet-up spot, but the visitor center employee misled us, and with the stress of not seeing anyone there, we started the hike when we should’ve waited for our guide.
We take a moment to recover from the disappointment, regain some energy (after a tiring, fast-paced hike over rocks!!), and still enjoy the magnificent scenery.
Once again, the colors are extraordinary, and there are very few people, which lets us fully soak in the place. Seeing the glacier up close is still incredibly impressive—it’s a real feast for the eyes.
Disappointed, we eventually head back down to our car. We need to do some shopping and fill up the gas tank. We decide to check out the Styggevatnet dam, located further north. We cross beautiful valleys and arrive in front of an enormous wall of rocks—impressive!
On the way back, we take the time to visit the Kaupanger Stave Church. It’s closed, but the view from the outside is really nice.
To "drown" our disappointment, we have a little apéritif in the B&B’s lounge before eating and going to bed with beautiful memories, despite everything.
Thanks for reading! Link to our blog: Day 14: Another day among the glaciers
I’ve been following your travel journal from the start but only now have the time to leave you a message. 😊
Your photos are really great, and your story is super nice.
Thanks so much for taking the time to leave me a little note. It really made my day! And thank you for my photos/my travel journal! To be honest, it’s pretty easy in front of such wonders 🙂
Early start today—it’s a driving day. We reluctantly leave our accommodation and our hosts… we could’ve happily stayed a few more days to rest!!
We soon reach a long tunnel that ends in a dual carriageway leading straight to the ferry dock! We take our last ferry of the trip at Mannheller. It’s a big boat, with two decks for cars, a lounge, and somewhere to grab a coffee… though we don’t really get to enjoy it, as the crossing is pretty quick (about half an hour). We head toward Borgund, which we reach 40 minutes later. Along the way, we find ourselves deep in small valleys, following river branches—a unique feeling!
We arrive in Borgund to visit another stave church. From a distance, the exterior looks really unusual, like a burnt wooden model.
Before starting the tour, disaster strikes: my camera battery is dead!!! We try everything and ask the info center if we can leave the battery to charge while we visit. They kindly agree… phew! Saved!!
We begin the visit at the information center, where the construction principles of these churches are explained.
Then we head outside to see the church itself.
The burnt-wood look is actually due to tar covering and protecting the wood. The inside of the church is tiny, very dark, and unfurnished, but you really get a sense of the building’s unique construction. This church is one of only 28 left out of the 1,000 built in the country. We feel lucky to experience it.
We take our time with the visit to let the battery charge a bit. Plus, the place and the tour are really enjoyable. There aren’t too many people, which makes the moment even nicer.
We leave this charming church and its pretty cemetery to backtrack a little and head toward the Snow Road (Aurlandsfjellet) in Lærdal.
We start by driving through woods, then find ourselves higher up with a stunning view of the trees dressed in autumn colors. Finally, we reach a barren, rocky plateau, partly covered in snow. Unfortunately, the rain starts pouring, and the fog rolls in, forcing us to stop for a while. We take the time to eat in the car, waiting for the rain to ease and visibility to improve. The weather eventually gets a little better, and we hit the road again. Even if the conditions aren’t ideal, the views are still breathtaking!
We stop at the famous Stegastein Point, a wooden structure jutting out over a fjord arm. The effect is incredible!
For even more “thrills,” head to the restrooms (yes, really—the restrooms!) where a large picture window offers an amazing view of the fjord… pretty surprising!
We begin the descent with plenty of hairpin turns to reach Flåm. We’re honestly disappointed by this village. We expected something incredible, but instead, there are buses in the parking lot and people everywhere… we didn’t really connect with it, which is a shame because the area has potential!!
After a quick photo stop, we’re back on the road toward our final destination: our hotel! But not just any hotel—this is the “splurge” hotel of the trip! We’ve had a little tradition for our summer vacations for a few years now: we treat ourselves to one night in an extraordinary hotel. Last year, we stayed in a beautiful hotel in the Douro Valley in Portugal, and the year before, it was a crazy hotel in Las Vegas… so this year, I found us a hotel straight out of Stephen King’s *The Shining* (but way less scary!!). The exterior isn’t much to look at, but the inside is absolutely stunning, and the view is amazing! We discover our room with a view of a rock that reminds us of El Capitan in Yosemite. The room’s decor takes us back in time! The hotel lounge is also jaw-dropping, blending old and modern. And the park around the hotel is just as impressive, offering incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the steep valley.
After enjoying the park, we head back up to shower, though the hot water takes a while to arrive (it has to travel through the whole hotel to reach our room—old-school style!!). We grab a drink at the bar before heading to the restaurant (the buffet is a bit disappointing, though).
Later in the evening, we relax in the lounge before calling it a night.
All in all, today was pretty relaxing—some driving, but not too much, so we could take our time and go at our own pace. We discovered more beautiful viewpoints, even if the Snow Road crossing was unfortunately a bit ruined by the bad weather.
For more details, check it out here: Day 15 – On the Snow Road
Thanks for reading! See you soon for the next (and nearly final) part of the adventure!
Hello!
When we woke up, we could see the sky was gray and overcast from our window. Eventually, the low clouds cleared just in time for us to get up and head down for breakfast.
Today, we don’t have much driving to do—we need to rest up for tomorrow. So, we take our time and leave the hotel around 11 AM. We stop along the way in a village to pick up a few supplies since tomorrow’s big hike means we won’t have a chance to shop. It’s Sunday, so the store is only half-open (just a tiny section accessible, the rest blocked off by a gate—how odd!).
The drive is still gorgeous, winding through rivers, forests, and plains. We go through another roundabout—this one’s really unusual…
… there’s a roundabout *inside* it!!! Un-be-lievable!!! We’d never seen anything like it before—it’s such a weird effect!
We come across a massive suspension bridge—so impressive!
Nothing’s on the schedule, so we enjoy the drive and make a few stops.
We decide to check out a huge waterfall called Voringfossen, which is actually a collection of several falls. It’s truly breathtaking. A paved path leads to different viewpoints so you can really take in the scenery.
Next to the parking lot, there’s a restaurant open and picnic tables outside. We grab a bite—me, a sandwich, and my husband, a huge bowl of salmon soup with a slice of bread he bought from the restaurant.
We hit the road again and spot quite a few orchards along the way. Every now and then, we see little roadside huts selling fruit—honor-system style!
We arrive in Odda in the late afternoon and decide to scout out the parking spot for tomorrow’s hike so we’re not caught off guard or waste time looking for it.
The nerves are starting to kick in a little… this hike is *the* hike, and we’re hoping we’re prepared enough. We see people coming back down, looking completely wiped out—definitely not reassuring!
After scouting, we head to our hotel, just 20 minutes from the parking lot. The staff gives us tons of tips for tomorrow (so nice!) and upgrades us: we get a huge room with a big bathtub and a balcony overlooking the fjord—amazing! The sun’s back out, and it’s perfect.
We explore this little town, which seems to have had a big industrial past but now looks a bit abandoned. The town itself is super cute with its colorful facades, and we really like it.
In the center, there’s a big playground with games for kids (though we adults had fun with them too!).
We go back to eat on our terrace with the incredible view and prep sandwiches for tomorrow. We’re psyched up, a little anxious, but ready!
Tonight, early bedtime—we’re getting up super early, and it’s going to be a long day!
See you soon for the next part of the adventure.
For more photos and useful tips, check it out here: Day 16: Heading South
Thanks for taking a look!
The adventure continues with a pretty intense day ahead of us.
5:30 AM: wake-up
6:00 AM: breakfast
6:30 AM: hit the road by car
7:00 AM: we’re in front of the sign marking the start of the hike—only 11 km, it says! We left the car at the highest parking lot. The machine to pay for our spot isn’t working, so we decide not to waste time and leave a note on the windshield saying we’ll pay when we get back tonight.
But 11 km for what? To end up at Trolltunga! This 22 km round-trip hike (11 km each way) with a 950 m elevation gain is a real challenge for us since we haven’t done much exercise lately.
Like the morning of an exam, we set off a little (okay, a lot) stressed. We’re not alone—plenty of other hikers are taking on this incredible challenge too.
The weather’s nice, no rain, which is absolutely essential because the first kilometer is steep (450 m elevation gain in the first 1000 m), and we have to climb over rocks. Some spots are slippery and would’ve been downright dangerous in the rain.
The climb is pretty brutal—we’re sweating, but we’re not the only ones struggling! Then we reach a slightly flatter part of the trail. The sun rises over the mountains—gorgeous!
At the 3rd kilometer, it’s back to a massive climb—tough, but we push through! We keep moving and slowly see the kilometer markers counting down the remaining distance.
The kilometers pass, and we feel like we’ve landed on Mars. The landscapes are super rocky, and the snow-capped peaks in the distance add to the beauty of the place.
The night before, the hotel employee told us to bring water but not to overpack since we’d find some along the way—but we forgot to ask how we were supposed to find it. Of course, no faucets, no huts, nothing to refill our slowly emptying bottles.
After 4 hours and 15 minutes, we finally reach the end of the 11 km trail and discover the famous Trolltunga!!!!
What a relief and what a joy to have made it!!!
A few groups are already there—it’s really impressive—and a little stressful to see people lining up to get their shot on that rock over the void! We take our place in the small queue and manage to get our photo pretty quickly.
We timed it well because after eating a sandwich, the line got *a lot* longer!
Up there, the wind is freezing, and the picnic is chilly, but the sun is absolutely stunning.
We finally start the descent after an hour and a half break.
The water problem is quickly solved—we refill our bottles from natural springs flowing down the rocks. The water’s good and refreshing, which is great!
We start to really feel the kilometers with a few energy dips, and some parts are done in silence. But the beauty of the landscapes keeps us going.
The last kilometer is just like the first—vertigo-inducing! We descend from rock to rock, and our joints take a beating.
But we finally make it back at 5:30 PM after 10 hours and 30 minutes of hiking (9 hours of actual walking)—we’re exhausted but so proud of ourselves!!!
We pay for the parking at the shop, stretch, clean our muddy shoes, and head back to the hotel.
After a well-deserved shower, we treat ourselves to a little bar/snack restaurant. It’s not gourmet, but it’s good enough to feel like we’ve earned it after such an amazing day!
We’re sore all over and fall asleep like babies by 9:30 PM!
WE DID IT!!!
For photos and info on Trolltunga: Day 17 - Hiking Trolltunga
Thanks for stopping by!
Hi there!
After yesterday’s big day, we slept like babies. This morning, we take our time and leave Odda around 9:30 AM. The weather is gorgeous—the sun decided to show up and treat us to a beautiful day.
We drive along the fjords and pass through villages where fruit farming is well-developed. We spot those famous little huts with self-service fruit stands by the roadside.
We finally arrive in Bergen around noon. We drop off our bags at the hotel (a chain hotel with no charm, chosen for its proximity to the bus station) and head to fill up the gas tank before returning the car. The guy asks if we want to check the car together or if he’ll do it alone later… No way! We check the car right away together (and we’re glad we didn’t let him do it alone…).
He inspects the car *super* carefully (unlike when we picked it up, when we were alone, as usual), making sure the doors don’t have the slightest scratch, running his hand under the bumper and over the windshield… O_O
Just as we’re about to give up and leave, he finally finds a tiny scratch on the windshield. Of course, since we didn’t hit any gravel during our trip, we’re sure the scratch was already there but we just didn’t see/feel it (it was raining the day we picked up the car, and we weren’t sneaky enough to run our hands over the windshield). We explain all this and leave with a bit of stress and uncertainty about how much we might be charged… In the end, we didn’t have to pay anything, but it was a good lesson for future rentals (always run your hand under the car and over the windows!!).
We take the tram (less than a 5-minute walk away) back to the city center.
Our trip is coming to an end—we’re heading home tomorrow. So, we scope out where to buy bus tickets to the airport before wandering around town… Turns out, we have to go to the tourist office by the harbor to buy the tickets (though apparently, you can also buy them on the spot from a vendor the same day?). Off we go! The weather is incredible—so different from what we had just a few days ago. It’s 24°C (75°F) and we’re in T-shirts!
We revisit the harbor and Bryggen, which we’d seen under gray skies before—it’s so much prettier in the sun, no denying it!
After this super pleasant stroll, we head back to the hotel to pack for tomorrow before going out for one last Norwegian meal. We’re lucky—they seat us right away. The restaurant is small and super warm, but the food is excellent (and the bill steep, as usual in this country!).
We enjoy this last evening wandering around the harbor before heading back to bed.
The next morning, we head to the bus station with our tickets bought the day before at the tourist office. We board the bus to the airport.
And we take off to head home, with tons of memories in our heads, photos on our camera, and the feeling of having had an unforgettable trip.
Thanks for following along patiently throughout this story, which started 7 months ago.
Since Norway, we’ve been to Berlin earlier this year and are lucky enough to be leaving again soon for a completely different destination… and to fulfill an old dream.
To see all the photos and details, check it out here: Day 18 - Under the Sun in Bergen
A special thanks to everyone who helped me plan my itinerary, especially Sarnia, who saved me money by suggesting we take the car on the ferry with us (and avoided one-way fees!).
Hello and thank you. Thank you so much for this second message—it really means a lot to me!
A travel journal is a long-term project, but finishing it is such a joy! 😉
I hope to start the next one on Berlin soon... but I'm already behind—we're leaving again soon!!! 😏
Even though it’s not our favorite city, we really liked Berlin too. Especially since it snowed while we were there—since we’re not used to that kind of weather back home, it felt a little surreal! It was amazing! !
I just read this fascinating account of Norway. Thanks for sharing your discoveries of these beautiful places, complete with gorgeous photos.
Looking forward to reading more from you!
A huge thank you for this message.
We’re so lucky to have had the means and opportunity to take this trip. This country is stunning.
Thanks for taking the time to read my post! 😉
Hi there,
Since I’m planning a trip to Norway, I’ve got two questions I couldn’t find answers to in the journal—unless I missed them:
- I didn’t see the dates of your trip (it’s important for the weather). What were they?
- What’s the name of the "budget-splurge" hotel, and was it worth it?
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
Hi,
For the dates, the first sentence of the journal says it was in September.
We’re heading to Tromsø in March and to the western fjords in mid-July—I’m rereading all the travel journals right now.
Hi,
Your message ended up in my spam folder—I just saw it by chance!
We went in September... 8 years ago already!! 🤪
The hotel was the Stalheim Hotel. I’ve forgotten some of the details over time, but I remember it as a charming, secluded place where we had an extraordinary life. I noted on our travel blog that the hotel buffet was a bit disappointing. That was 8 years ago, though—it may have changed since then.
This trip was absolutely amazing, and now I dream of visiting the Lofoten Islands! !
Hello,
We went to Norway in 2022, and I’d read several travel journals and blogs to prepare for our trip, but I’d missed yours... catching up this morning! 😉
The photos are absolutely stunning despite the bad weather (I obviously checked out the extra photos on your blog). Speaking of bad weather, I thought we’d had a lot of rain, but I think you had even more! !😄
When planning the trip, we also hesitated between the south and the north (didn’t want to skip the Lofoten Islands either) and ultimately decided to do it all! Given the cost of a trip there (similar to or even more expensive than our previous trips to the United States), we figured it might be our only trip to Norway and that we’d do both... but now we’re certain we’ll go back!
If you ever return to Åndalsnes, consider the hike to Rampestreken: the view from the top is amazing!
Trolltunga was a challenge for me too (less so for my husband and kids, who are athletic), and I was proud to have made it (especially since I’ve had knee problems for a few years and wasn’t sure if it would hold up). We also left our car at the highest parking lot, but in 2022, you had to book the parking spot several weeks in advance (unless that was only during the summer months?).
Au pays des trolls: la Norvège ... un voyage pas toujours drôle... Cela faisait un an que nous n'avions pas voyagé en famille donc quand Thomas et Lucie ont…
Kattegat n'est pas seulement le nom du village dans la série télévisée " Viking ", c'est aussi le nom de l'étendue d'eau qui sépare le Danemark de la Suède...…
En route pour de nouvelles aventures.!!! Pour les 60 ans de madame, je lui fais très plaisir. Si habituellement, les destinations que je choisis sont plutôt…
L’envie de voir le soleil de minuit, de traverser des fjords, de découvrir des églises en bois debout, de retrouver un climat et des paysages rudes ... voila…
Récit de 3 semaines en Norvège avec nos 2 enfants de 12 et 14 ans. Nous sommes revenus enchantés de ce voyage – les paysages sont à la hauteur de leur…
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
Si je ferme les yeux et pense au sultanat d’Oman, je sens d’abord un léger parfum d’encens, la chaleur d'un rayon de soleil sur ma peau, avant de sentir le sable couler dans ma main… J’ai sur la langue le goût et le moelleux d’une datte, véritable bonbon, puis celui du café avec une pointe de cardamome et d’eau de rose.... J’entends le vent du désert siffler à mes oreilles, au loin l’appel d’un muezzin, puis le murmure de l’eau. J’ouvre les yeux, je vois des sourires, des signes de bienvenue, je vois une mer turquoise, des roches allant de l’ocre au pourpre, des wadis profonds d’où jaillissent des torrents, des dunes oranges, des plages de sable blanc où de petits crabes filent à toute allure. Je vois des oasis incroyables qui surgissent entre les montagnes arides. Je vois des villages abandonnés que l’on rêverait pleins de vie, des forteresses imposantes dominant des vallées, et des souks animés où la proposition est délicate et la négociation une politesse mutuelle…
Tout cela, et bien plus encore.
C’est ce que j’ai essayé de traduire dans mon carnet de voyage dessiné, que je complèterai çà et là de photos.
Ce carnet, je l’ai dessiné « à froid », après mon retour (en fait je l’ai réalisé cet été alors que notre voyage date de cet hiver). Il est d’un format assez spécial je l’avais acheté au japon, sans trop savoir ce que j’allais en faire. Et bien il a trouvé son usage ! Voici ci-dessous une photo de ce carnet, en mode accordéon : là, il n’est que partiellement ouvert, car tout déplié cela fait 5 mètres de long !
Pour les amateurs de dessin : Le format en accordéon est à la fois une contrainte (chaque feuillet fait un format 9 cm X 27 cm), et une liberté (on peut faire une fresque). Le papier est aussi un peu spécial : il n’offre pas une grande finesse de trait, mais il prend bien l’encre (feutre liner). En revanche, tout doit être fait presque d’un jet (avec une esquisse très légère au crayon) car il se gomme très mal. Il boit trop l’eau pour colorer au feutre ou à l’aquarelle (ou alors sans utiliser la détrempe), en revanche il porte bien le pastel à l’huile et son utilisation au pinceau avec de l’essence. Tirant sur le jaune, il m’a permis de créer des contrastes y compris avec le pastel blanc.
A droite, le "marqueur" de l'accueil, ces dattes qu'on vous offre partout en signe d'hospitalité. A gauche, un hommage à ces sublimes portes usées par les temps, qu'on admire un peu partout dans les quartiers anciens, y compris ceux qui sont abandonnés.
Oman est un des grands producteurs de résine d'encens. Les brûleurs d'encens sont partout, du plus simple en terre au plus précieux en argent ciselé...
L'hospitalité vous conduira à accepter aussi souvent un petit café, un "omani café", très léger, parfumé subtilement avec de la cardamome, pourquoi pas un peu de safran, et éventuellement un peu d'eau de rose.
J'ai ici représenté un homme dans l'habit commun usuel de tous les omanais : la dishdasha, majoritairement blanche (en semaine, en journée, la couleur est davantage pour le soir ou le vendredi et le samedi). Même si l'on voit des hommes habillés à l'occidentale, ils sont très peu nombreux. La dishdasha blanche est vraiment l'habit commun partagé par tous les hommes. La dishdasha, qui n'a pas de capuche, se distingue par un petit pompon accroché au col, la furakha, qu'on imbibe de parfum. Et croyez moi, les omanais en abusent! "ça sent le pompon" est une expression qui est maintenant passée dans notre langage commun, à mon mari et moi.
Autre incontournable de la tenue masculine, la kuma, ce petit couvre-chef rond, la plupart du temps blanc rehaussé de motifs aux couleurs vives. Le keffieh est aussi porté (mais sans le cordon appelé agal dans les pays arabes), et il est plutôt arboré par ceux dont les racines sont dans le désert, de ce que j'en ai compris.
Et les femmes, me direz vous? Voilées, pour certaines en noir intégral (mais pas la burka, plutôt le chador + Abaya), du fait de l'influence de l'Arabie et des émirats arabes unis, alors que le vêtement traditionnel était auparavant plutôt une superposition de robes très colorées. La plupart des femmes que nous avons vues portaient plutôt une tenue neutre, un voile uni sur les cheveux, mais le visage découvert. Nous avons vu aussi beaucoup de saris et de voiles colorés, il ne faut pas oublier que 40% de la population est constituée d'immigrants indiens, népalais, bengalais, qui travaillent beaucoup dans le tourisme, l'hôtellerie et la restauration, les services, mais aussi tous les travaux ouvriers.
Je précise qu'en tant que touriste il n'y a aucune pression pour porter un voile, jamais de regards désapprobateurs d'aucune sorte. Bien sûr, on gardera pour la terrasse de l'hôtel les mini shorts, les décolletés plongeants, les épaules et ventres dénudés, mais j'ai envie de dire que c'est pareil pour les hommes et les femmes et que le soleil étant vif c'est aussi meilleur pour la peau.
Voici pour cette introduction ! Au prochain post, je vous parlerai de mon itinéraire et on pourra se lancer!
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that pop up in city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the vintage vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to nearby Senso-ji Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are like real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Bonjour tout le monde, nous voici rentrés d'un RT USA organisé par nos soins du 31/07/2026 au 26/08/2026.
La destination : Le Sud-Ouest USA avec le Texas, l'Arizona et le Nouveau-Mexique. 7000 kilomètres effectués à la louche.
L'Auto : Une Chevrolet Equinoxe pour deux en passant par BSP Auto et Avis. Et dedans 2 valises, un sac de voyage, deux valises cabines, la glacière de chez Walmart, le matos photos et les bouteilles d'eau (pack de 40).
Le trajet : Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo et Dallas pour finir avec départ sur DFW.
Les voyageurs : Deux séniors bien avancés dans l'âge (73 et 75) mais toujours en activité (pas épuisante physiquement) (pour rester vivants et financer les voyages), autonomes physiquement à 100%, intellectuellement beaucoup moins, passionnés des USA, pays où tout est possible, plus marcheurs que randonneurs, plutôt hôtels à partir de 3 étoiles que motels de bord de route, plutôt restos Italiens que nourriture US, adeptes des arrêts fréquents pour les photos, plutôt musées que rien, Plutôt sieste que marches forcées. Pas trop râleurs, juste ce qu'il faut pour rester français au pays du grand Satan qu'ils disent.
Pas trés doués pour les langues, Anglais des rues (mais bien pratique), Espagnol nul pour moi hormis : " Hola ! Una Cerveza por Favor ! " Cela fait court. Madame comprend tout mais refuse de parler.
Le coût du RT : Environ 12 000 euros avec les vols AF, Auto, Essence, cadeaux, visites et tutti quanti. Bien maitrisé puisque 13500 euros prévus au départ.
Le bilan positif : Un régal avec les longues routes à perte de vue. Des Musées à découvrir. Le constat de la présence Hispanique et de son Histoire importante dans ce secteur de l'Amérique. Des locaux adorables. Des touristes plus ou moins sympas. Un accent Texan abominable et difficile à comprendre. Des stations Gas qui sont de véritables magasins avec nourriture préparée et autre alcools vendus en Arizona et Nouveau-Mexique et des employés au top ! Toujours prêts à rigoler !
Le bilan négatif : La chaleur tout au long du séjour...43° sur Dallas en fin de séjour. Impossible de sortir dans les rues. Beaucoup de "Homeless" dans les rues de l'Hyper Centre de Dallas. Les breakfasts Hôtel toujours les mêmes. On s'y fait.
Donc, positif certes mais le concept commence à fatiguer. Il se pourrait que le modèle RT autonome soit repensé pour le prochain. SI celui qui est en haut nous prête vie.
Pour la suite, attendons les premières photos triées et passées à la moulinette.
Le dernier carnet sur le Turkménistan date de 2019. Voici donc un court retour sur ce vaste pays désertique qui se visite un peu plus facilement qu'auparavant.
C'est mon premier carnet. Si vous avez des questions, n'hésitez pas. Le pays s'ouvre lentement mais il est possible de visiter des sites où vous serez tout seul. En 5 jours, j'ai vu 2 hongkongais, quelques allemands et un chilien au cratère, 10 chinois dans un bazar de la capitale, et c'est tout !
Il est possible de visiter le Turkménistan depuis l'Ouzbékistan. Le plus simple et le plus économique est de se rendre en taxi jusqu'à la frontière depuis Boukhara. Le trajet prend un peu plus d'une heure.
Le passage de la frontière est assez long puisque de nombreux Turkmènes ramènent des objets achetés en Ouzbékistan afin de pouvoir les revendre au Turkménistan. Par exemple des couches, des produits pour bébés ou des produits de beauté.
Il m'a fallu plus de 2h30 pour franchir la frontière. Il est obligatoire pour visiter le Turkménistan d'avoir un guide et de passer par une agence de voyage. Les agences britanniques proposent souvent des séjours de trois, cinq ou sept jours à plus de 1 500 ou 2 000 euros.
Mais si votre budget est plus limité, il vous suffit de contacter quelques agences turkmènes directement par mail qui vous feront une proposition entre 700 et 1 300 euros pour trois à sept jours. J'ai pris un séjour de 5 jours de Turkmenabat dans le Nord-Est du pays jusqu'�� Dashoguz dans le Nord. L'objectif est de visiter les principaux sites classés à l'Unesco, dont Merv, et les sites archéologiques comme Nisa ou Gonur Tepe.
Votre guide sera également le chauffeur. Il viendra vous chercher à la frontière. Les formalités sont très longues car les douaniers doivent multiplier les tampons et l'obtention du visa que vous avez préalablement demandé à votre agence de voyage nécessite plusieurs contrôles. Mais le passage se fait relativement aisément même si chaque étape est assez longue.
Une fois de l'autre côté, première surprise, l'autoroute est très récente jusqu'à Turkmenabat. Une très longue file de camions s'étend sur plusieurs kilomètres du côté turkmène afin de pouvoir passer la frontière et aller en Ouzbékistan. En effet, selon mon guide, les camions turkmènes transportent du gaz, du coton (pas à cette saison puisque la récolte a lieu en septembre), mais ont surtout un réservoir plein car le prix du carburant est beaucoup moins cher au Turkménistan. Un plein pour une voiture vaut à peu près 3 euros, ce qui est défiant toute concurrence.
Depuis le poste frontière de Farap, l'objectif est d'atteindre la ville de Mary qui abrite dans sa banlieue, à une trentaine de kilomètres, le site classé à l'UNESCO de Merv. Cette cité est connue comme étant une fondation d'Alexandre le Grand au IVe siècle avant Jésus-Christ sous le nom d'Alexandrie de Margiane. Plusieurs forteresses sont visibles.
Après plus de trois heures de route, nous déjeunons dans un restaurant turc qui s'appelle Aladdin. Plusieurs citations du président sont visibles sur l'autoroute, mais la route est de qualité et on avance aisément. Ce sera de loin la meilleure route du pays. ça se gâtera largement par la suite.
Les ronds-points sont particulièrement intéressants puisqu'on y retrouve des emblèmes de la culture turkmène, soit le chien, soit un tapis, soit le cheval Ahal Teke soit des symboles musulmans, même si la présence d'artefacts islamiques est assez réduite.
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Il arrive souvent qu'on nous demande quoi visiter en Belgique .
Et les réponses ramènent le plus souvent à Bruges , Gand, Anvers et Bruxelles , avec raison , ces villes valant la peine d'être visitées 😉 .
Toutefois, la Belgique, bien que petite , ne se limite pas à ces 4 villes .
J'habite l'une d'entre elles ( Bruxelles) , passe avec plaisir du temps dans les trois autres , mais j'ai envie d'aborder d'autres coins moins connus , qui pourront compléter le séjour de ceux qui ont envie d'en voir un peu plus , ou de voir autre chose .
C'est qu'entre deux voyages , j'aime bien visiter l'un ou l'autre coin du pays où j'habite .
D'où l'idée d'un carnet de balades .
La plupart des endroits dont je vais parler peuvent être visités en faisant l'aller-retour le même jour , au départ de Bruxelles , que ce soit en transports en commun ou en voiture .
Dans l'ordre chronologique des sujets abordés :
- Le barrage de la Gileppe ( province de Liège) -message 2 , page 1
- Le domaine de La Hulpe ( Brabant wallon ) - message 3 , page 1
- Malines ( province d'Anvers ) message 4 , page 1
- La côte - message 5 , page 1
- Le Westhoek , au départ de La Panne - message 6 , page 1
- Le Zwin, au départ de Knokke - message 7 , page 1
- Lier ( entre Malines et Anvers ) - message 8 , page 1
- Mons (Hainaut) - message 9 , page 1
- La région de Florenville . - message 12 , page 1
- Les Cantons de l'Est - message 13 , page 1
- Dinant - message 18 , page 1
- Le jardin japonais d'Hasselt - message 24 , page 2
- Louvain message 29 , page 2
- Louvain-la-neuve - message 32 , page 2
- Ostende - message 42 (page 3) et message 166 (page 9)
- Les floralies de Grand-Bigard . - message 43 , page 3
- Le bois de Halle -message 44 , page 3
- Les pralines - message 54 , page 3
- Charleroi - message 68 , page 4
- Namur - message 92 , page 5
- Le Bois du Cazier ( Marcinelle) - message 95 , page 5
- Les couques et les gozettes - message 96 , page 5
- Liège - message 99 , page 5
- Tournai - message 115 , page 6 .
- Audenarde ( Oudenaarde ) - message 121, page 7
- Jardin botanique de Meise - message 124, page 7 .
- Tongres ( Tongeren ) - message 125 , page 7 .
- Château de Beersel ( Brabant flamand) - message 126, page 7 .
- Bruxelles confinée ( messages 150 et 154 , page 8 )
- L'hôpital Notre Dame à la Rose , à Lessines ( messages 161 et 162 , page 9 ) .
- Westende ( message 167, page 9)
je complète cette liste au fur et à mesure de l'avancement du carnet ...
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!
The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not the south?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or go with the flow?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
You’ll find here a post with some practical information.
And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.
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As a supplement, the route track.
Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...
January 2026
Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
I’d been wanting to discover Sulawesi for years. But then life happened—COVID, the cost of flight tickets, you name it. Long story short, years went by, but we finally set off as a family for a three-week trip in southern Sulawesi: Rammang Rammang, Rantepao, Sengkang, Bira, and Selayar.
I like to spend a good amount of time in the places I visit, giving myself the chance to really get to know the area and meet locals. So no island-hopping this time—just the south. But when I say "just," it’s not restrictive at all, given how rich this island is in landscapes, little encounters, and magical moments.
Wednesday 07/08 - Thursday 07/09:
We left Montpellier for what was supposed to be five flights, though we only took four to start, landing in Jakarta.
We picked up our luggage there to catch a flight to Makassar the next day. That’s the only way we could get an affordable ticket (702 €).
I won’t bore you with the flight details—there’s not much to say. We arrived at 7 PM and considered heading straight to Makassar that evening. But we opted for a recovery night before taking off again. Good thing we did, because my son’s suitcase was missing...
First contact with the locals was a bit stressful—a trip without your luggage isn’t exactly fun. But right away, a woman reassured us: the suitcase was just enjoying some extra time in Singapore. Maybe it was doing some last-minute shopping. Anyway, nothing serious—it was supposed to arrive at 9 AM the next day. That gave us some breathing room since our flight wasn’t until noon.
So off we went to our hotel (Days Hotel & Suites) near the airport. It was cheap (40 € for three rooms—my kids are older and need their space), but it wasn’t worth much more. The place had definitely seen better days. But no big deal—we were only there for the night, and... we got to watch France beat Morocco in the World Cup live at 3 AM. That’s what really mattered!
Friday 07/10: In search of the lost suitcase
First challenge of the morning: finding our missing suitcase. They sent us to the airport basement, to the staff entrance. We were greeted with smiles, and an airport employee led me through the underground corridors back to the baggage claim. Right on time at 9 AM, the suitcase arrived, just like they’d promised. We were finally complete!
Off we went to change terminals, grab a well-deserved meal, and board our fifth flight to Makassar.
Little side note: I struggled for a while trying to book domestic flights directly on the airlines’ websites with no luck. Without meaning to advertise (though I guess I am a little), I realized it’d be easier to use sites like tiket.com or Traveloka. That turned out to be a great choice—I even ended up booking hotels through them later in the trip.
12:40 PM: We were on our way to Makassar. First good news: we were the only tourists. Well, the only European tourists on the flight, anyway.
No, you’re not dreaming—the bag is full of... potato chip packets.
To each their own souvenirs, I guess...
When we arrived in Makassar, a driver was waiting to take us straight to Rammang Rammang: 250,000 IDR (12 €) to our guesthouse (Rammang Rammang House). Forget about meeting people on the bus—we were headed straight to the first stop of our trip, and it was already stunning.
My kids’ guesthouse:
Ours:
View of the little lake:
But not everything is straightforward around here.
I wanted to get a local SIM card for internet and calls. I found them expensive at Jakarta’s airport (20 € for 20 GB), so I decided to wait. Well, no luck in Rammang Rammang either. You can’t just buy one from the local shop—you need a Telkomsat store (they have the best coverage). So we’d have to wait for Rantepao to get Wi-Fi... When I say "local shop," I mean the little shack around the corner. No big deal—we’d find one easily in Rantepao for 5 € and 25 GB. So there we were, offline, just the four of us enjoying the amazing view.
Saturday 07/11: Rammang Rammang
We woke up early to the sound of wedding music blasting through the village (everyone’s invited!). Off we went to explore the area.
A little walking, a little boat ride (shared with a French tourist and a Polish one—yes, there *are* tourists here, just not many; 750,000 IDR for up to 8 people) through a lovely canal, and we discovered the karst site. It was peaceful and beautiful.
The river:
The karst site:
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Okay, Palermo—we know it. We go there to marvel at the architectural wonders born from the Arab-Norman-Byzantine-Gothic mix. And rightly so. We also go to treat our taste buds to all kinds of delights, both savory and sweet. Again, rightly so. We go to succumb to the charms of Palermo’s women, their sun-kissed skin glowing with golden highlights. Still, rightly so. And all while fantasizing about a mafia we’ll never actually see. Anyway.
But you’ll also find street art everywhere, even in the historic center. Sometimes, you just need to step a few meters away from the main tourist highways like Cassaro, Via Maqueda, or the main arteries of the Ballarò, Capo, or Vucciria markets to stumble upon some amazing murals. Duck into one or two slightly grimy alleys, weaving past trash and crumbling walls, and you’ll find real gems.
For example, just 50 meters south of the main artery of the Mercato del Capo, there’s a great spot with dozens of murals in a tiny neighborhood of run-down mini-houses. You’ll find plenty more south of the Mercato di Ballarò, in the Albergheria (the grittier side, not the one near Cassaro). There’s some in Ballarò itself too, but it’s hard to spot when the market’s in full swing with stalls everywhere. La Kalsa isn’t left out either, nor is Vucciria—just step away from the restaurant-packed streets.
Here are a few examples that really caught my eye.
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary:
27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)
-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)
-->7 days in Tokyo
The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots...
decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring
research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan
book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later
reserve rental cars
order yen
check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life!
Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats.
Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited.
Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Before Our Departure
Preparing for this trip started 9 months before our departure in June. For those planning a similar itinerary, it’s important to book accommodations well in advance, especially in the Okavango and Savuti campsites—otherwise, you might not find any availability.
Introduction
After visiting Zambia three years ago and Namibia and western Botswana a year and a half ago, this year we chose Zimbabwe (Hwange NP) and the northern half of Botswana.
Our flight from Paris was to Victoria Falls with Ethiopian Airlines, with a layover in Addis Ababa. We rented a 4x4 from Bushlore in Kasane, complete with two rooftop tents since there are four of us on this adventure. Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4 and, most importantly, gave us a rundown of the vehicle and its equipment. Pay close attention to what they tell you—it could be crucial if something goes wrong, as it did for us during the trip.
Our Itinerary
We arrived on June 12th at noon. At Victoria Falls Airport, we got our double-entry visa right away—I’d already pre-booked it online on the site https://www.evisa.gov.zw/.
Since our vehicle was in Botswana, we had to cross the border from Victoria Falls into Botswana for the first time.
The next morning, Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4. After completing the formalities, we headed toward Zimbabwe and the town of Victoria Falls.
We woke up early the next morning to be at Victoria Falls at sunrise. The scenery was stunning, but since it was the start of the dry season, the Zambezi was still high, so the falls had a strong flow. This made it hard to fully appreciate their beauty.
In the early afternoon, we left for Hwange NP, where we stayed for 4 days. Two days at Gwango campsite near Dete, followed by two days at Robins Camp. We expected to see more animals at Robins, but that wasn’t the case. In Hwange, we didn’t spot any predators, but we did see plenty of mammals (buffalo, elephants, giraffes, zebras, and antelopes).
After a few days in Zimbabwe, we crossed back into Botswana at Pandamatenga. We stopped at Nata Lodge for a good night’s rest—driving on the dirt roads is exhausting.
We left Nata and headed toward Nxai Pan. The road was sandy but manageable. We made a small detour to admire some beautiful baobabs at "Baines Baobabs." Then we continued to our campsite, Nxai Pan South Camp. Keep in mind that many campsites in Botswana aren’t fenced (except for the shower/toilet areas), so animals can roam freely within the camp. Take precautions, especially after dark.
After our stop in Nxai Pan, we headed to Maun. We decided to break our journey in Maun before heading to Moremi and the Okavango Delta for three reasons: first, we needed to stock up on supplies and fuel for the next 5 days; second, our fridge had broken (luckily, Bushlore has a branch in Maun); and third, the drive from Nxai to our camp in Xakanaxa in the delta would’ve taken too long. I always avoid driving after dark.
We arrived at our Xakanaxa camp on June 21st in the early afternoon. Not wanting to waste time, we booked a boat ride on the Okavango Delta, leaving at 4:00 PM for a 2-hour sunset cruise. For those interested, to the right of the Xakanaxa X1 site, there’s a sign for boat rides. The organizer is very professional and offers prices that are nothing like those of the lodges.
It was a beautiful ride through the delta with a stunning sunset. Being on a boat is much more relaxing than driving on the dirt roads. That didn’t stop us from doing self-drive safaris the next morning and late afternoon, though.
Then came the time to leave the delta and head toward Savuti, a much drier region. And that’s when the toughest part of our trip began. First, we decided to go up via Khwai. The rainy season was over, but the area was still marshy. We had to cross a few small water patches, testing the depth to make sure we could get through. Luckily, a sign on the road pointed us toward a drier route. We reached Khwai without any issues, but then we made a major mistake. Instead of taking the main track toward Mababe Gate to reach Savuti Camp, we took a straight path north and then a right turn to get to our camp. Bad call—we got stuck in the sand, with one rear wheel buried halfway and a front wheel off the ground. We were genuinely scared we wouldn’t get out, especially since we were on a deserted track, 20 kilometers from our destination, with night falling in two hours. This is where paying attention to the vehicle instructions really paid off—we had to use the jack to get out of the mess. The result: we arrived at Savuti campsite just before dark (Distance: 146.3 km, Duration: 9 hours, 56 minutes, and 3 seconds, Average speed: 14.7 km/h, tracked with Osmand). At reception, the staff couldn’t understand how we’d gotten there—we hadn’t passed through any of Savuti’s reserve entry gates.
The next morning, no one felt like driving, so we did a game drive with a guide. I don’t know if it was some kind of reward, but the outing was amazing. We saw three lions and, best of all, a pack of African wild dogs that we had time to admire and photograph. The next day, we did a short self-drive and found one of the lions from the day before drinking at a waterhole. That was the end of our Savuti adventure.
Now we’re heading to Kasane. We returned our vehicle and settled in for our last two nights there. The next morning, since we no longer had a car, we decided to do one last early-morning game drive in Chobe NP. It turned out great—we followed two brother lions and saw plenty of other mammals. The only downside of Chobe is the number of tourists, which was a change from the other parks we’d visited. That said, we’re tourists too, so...
In the evening, we took one last boat ride on the Chobe River to end on a high note with a beautiful sunset.
After a good night’s sleep and plenty of wonderful memories, landscapes, animals, and emotions, it was time to leave. We left early in the morning with the same taxi company as before to cross the border into Zimbabwe one last time and head to the airport, where we took off to return to France.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context
This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda.
Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda
Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs.
This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast.
Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday.
We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠
We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁
We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes.
Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing.
Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop.
On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Bonjour,
De retour sur le forum - et première rédaction d'un espèce de carnet de retour de notre 4ème voyage en Indo.
Contexte : une trentaine de jours, en scooter et en duo, sur Florès (et une petite incursion dans l'archipel de Solor, plus précisément à Lembata (chut, faut pas trop en parler !!!), qui donne envie d'en faire beaucoup plus là bas malgré les infrastructures sporadiques), en partie dans des destinations déjà bien connues du forum (la classique Ruteng / Bajawa / Riung / Moni voir baie de Maumere) ... et qui ne parlera pas du PN de Komodo ou de Wae Rebo, puisque nous n'y sommes pas allés 🏴☠️.
Texte en anglais (issu d'une autre plateforme). Sans nul doute, des traducteurs intelligents ou pas marcheront à merveille en cas d'anglophobie 🤪.
Disponible à toute fin utile pour des détails ou infos.
Equippement : Yam' Nmax 155 ; 2x saccoches cavalières (25L) + sac de selle (30L) + saccoche tunnel (15L pour le matos photo) ; casques et vêtements d'enduro amenés depuis la France.
Itinéraire : boucle depuis Labuan bajo jusqu'à Pulau Lembata ; juillet-août 2026
Road conditions graded from A (excellent) to D (very bad, at least for a Scooter… a CRF/KLX or even honda ADV would do better on that)
D1 : Labuan Bajo – Reok via Ranggoe, Rego & Tagol (130km ; 5hrs). Section LBajo – Rego (90 km ; B) is quite good tarmac, despite a lot of elevation with many small valleys and passes. Rego – Tagol (10km ; D) is a stone road (not gravel), some ascents & very poor condition ; necessary to lower tyre pressure. Tagol – Reok port (22km, quality depends considerably from D to B). Reok port – Towncenter : B. Night @Iffah Homestay (100k for fan room, mandi attached, no breakfast), simple but clean. Notes : path to danau Sano Limbung was closed ; access to Tiwu Pai & Wae Kuli (waterfalls) not permitted in july 2026.
D2 : Reok – Riung via Pota (105km ; 3h-3h30). The road is very narrow in some part, thanks to the uncut bushes (lowering visibility hence extra caution as animals/people can suddenly appear in a turn…) but generally good condition except many eroded sections and some unpaved ones. Grade C/B. 2 nights @Mentos (285k for AC room)
D3 : Boat tour in Riung (booked directly with a captain, 800k for two for private boat incl. lunch and NP fees) + sunset from Watu Mitong Riung (should not be missed).
D4 : Riung – Muku Saki via Mbay (around 100km ; 3h30). Quality varies from A in the vicinity of Mbay to eroded sections (C) in secluded places. Night @Sao Paolo Homestay (250k for fan room with mandi, maybe overpriced but nice house and great food). Note : if you happen to pass by Mbay on Saturday, the market is well worth a stop (cheapest Ikat on the trip : you’ll be asked normal prices providing you’re OK in Bahasa…)
D5 : Muku Saki – Tanjung Kajuwulu (near Ndete) (90km, 3h). Many patholes, eroded (C). Night at Déjà Vu Homestay (220k for a matress on the floor & outside mandi/toilets ; I woud define this as a tourist trap – the quote we had for food was double priced too…)
D6 : Tanjung Kajuwulu – Waiterang (east of Maumere, 55km , 1h30). Pathholes till maumere, then All good (TransFlores), C/A. Night at Sunset Cottage (new concrete room, very serene place ; 270k for AC with bathroom ; much prefered Sunset over Lena House (more customers, more built up).
D7 : Waiterang – Larantuka via Boru and Eputobi (TransFlores ; grade A ; 115km / 2h40). Particularly liked the drink stalls (marked as Rest Area Eputobi) and the out of order aquatic park just before Larantuka (obyej wisata waiplatin). Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay, which is not advertising itself as Larantuka Beach Homestay as some contributor signals here and on goole maps review. Best breakfast of the trip (Cumi Cumi !!!) ; 275k for AC room with bathroom.
D8 : Local Boat (Kapal Kayu) from the main port to Lembata (Lewoleba). Departure 8am ; price 60k/head + 50k for the bike. Stop enroute on Adonara (where we did not stop due to fights between communities). Night @Elmany Homestay (275k for AC room with bathroom, fan room with shared bathroom also available). Whole afternoon at Pantai Hadakewa, fantastic place (good snorkeling, great views of Ile Api aka Gn Lewotolo). Road condition : A (did not expect the TransLembata to be that good…).
D9 : Loop around Ile Api (50km, 2hrs), anticlockwise. Stops enroute at Situs Tulang Paus (whale squeletton), pantai Jotona, pantai Wena (we expected to snorkel from there, but wind was very strong that day), situs Watu Nale, Selat Sonia. The western coast is far less interesting. Road conditions : bad (C) on the eastern side (up to Riangbeda), good (B/A) afterwards. Night @Elmany Homestay.
D10 : Lewoleba – Lamalera via the western and south coast (70km, 2h30). Good road (B) for roughly the first 55km (up to Tapobali), then eroded track for the last 15km (in some parts steep and dangerous) up to Lamalera (D/C). Notes : 1/ Kuma resort denied us the entry for some drink ; 2/Pantai Waijarang « complex » is abandonned but closed with fences ; you can still sneak in ; 3/ some reports advise to skip Bukit Cinta (foreigner entry fee) for Bukit Doa Watomiten (stations of the cross) ; well Bukit Cinta has also been abandonned (well spent money…sic) but remains opened with structures falling (quickly) appart. Night @Lamalera Inn (200k per head including meals ; very basic fan room + attached mandi). Planned 2 nights, spent only one, as it’s the only tenant I had difficulties with (only interested in money, initially stated crazy prices, starts loud music at 6am … and drinking moke at 8am…)
D11 : Trip to Wulandoni for the Barter Market (Saturday only). Bad road (C) along the coast. Had to report at the Kantor upon arrival, which quite surprisingly asked 100k per person (foreigner) to go inside the (outside) market. Other « local » tourists (a group from Jakarta) were not asked to pay. Well, since a market is a public space and not a zoo, we refused payment and enjoyed the activity from the kopi stall next to it. Returned then to Lamalera for the catches of the day, then to Lewoleba via the mountain road (45km, 2 hours). First 10km to Puor is in very bad condition and uphill (D/C). The remaining is on a newly constructed road (A). Note : Air Panas Sabutobo is abandonned and falling apart (again…) but there are still some water pipes along the river that you can enjoy (depending how lucky you are, just with the forest sounds as companion). Night @Elmany Homestay
D12 : Chill day alond the northern coast (Batu Payung, Pantai Hadakewa with lot of snorkeling, drove till Wailolong and backtracked to Pantai Lewolein for more snorkeling (nice canyons there !) and another fantastic sunset over Ile Api (see GMaps pictures)). Night @Elmany Homestay
D13 : Monday weekly market at Pada, southwest of Lewoleba. Renowned but honnestly dont plan any itinerary specifically for it, just an ordinary Kampung weekly market. Returned to Larantuka and Flores with the 12pm local boat (the same boat that leaves from Larantuka at 8am). Same prices as the first leg. Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay
D14 : Larantuka – Waiterang along the northern coast (100km, 3h) via Pantai Kawaliwu, Tewuk Lewokluok (trail is easy to find, very nice snorkelling in a lagoon), Pantai Lato (to my opinion the most beautiful beach on Flores and you’ll be the only visitor, as opposed to Pantai Koka) and Pantai Hia, until rejoining the TransFlores near Nebe. Grade C on the costal eroded road / track. 3 nights @Lena Guesthouse (booked ahead as it fills up quickly, but we prefered its neighbour Sunset Beach Guesthouse)
D15 : Snorkeling trip organised by Lena Guesthouse (200k per head excluding NP fees and lunch)). The drop-off near Pulau Babi is a very nice spot.
D16 : scooter day trip around the Egon Range (too lazy to hike it…), through nice Sikka villages (route : Watublapi, Umauta, Bola, pantai Doreng, Nakatoli, foot of Gn Egon, Air panas Blidit). The track from Natakoli to the foot of Gn Egon is very steep, damaged and wet (with moss) ; I would recommend not to attempt that in case of bad weather.
D17 : Waiterang – Moni (130km, 3h30, transflores grade A/B) via Pantai Koka (refused to pay the mafia entry fee…) and Jopu (some rumah Adat Lio). Stopped at Museum Bikon Blewut, south of Maumere. Very nice artefacts (especially wooden statues from Papuan, great ikat collection) although very disorganized and sadly non-visited (hence masterpieces fall into oblivion). 2 Nights @Liahz Lodge (150k for fan room, basic bathroom… but right next to Air Panas Liasembe (free, no closing time) !!!).
D18 : Sunrise from Kelimutu with a nice weather (stayed until 8.30am). I don’t know if the sunrise is really worth it (lot of people ascending and watching the sunrise – a lot but nothing compared to e.g. Gn Bromo), nearly everyone going down around 7am, then there is virtually nobody. Trip (20km one way, good road B) to Kampung Adat Nggela (Lio). Although the village is habited and mostly out of the beaten path, I have mixed fillings due to the fact that most ladies (some are pushy) try to sell you (bad) pieces of ikat.
D19 : Moni – Ende via Detusoko paddy fields, Kampung Adat Saga (Lio) and Puncak Ndona ; 75km 2h30. We really liked Saga (nice setting on the mountain, friendly villagers, no selling, mix between traditional and more modern houses in that lively village). Sunset from Bukit Raja, on the peninsula with a 360 view on Gn Iya, Gn Meja Kota Ende and the mountains behind. Note : at the end of the road (search for Gunung Meja Tourist Info Center), there is a (sand) track leading to the path. 1/ only intend the track if you have off road driving experience ; 2/ dont trust the walking time stated by Maps.me. Took us 45mins on a steady pace to reach the summit. Night @Hoja Homestay, 300k for a comfortable AC room with bathroom.
D20 : Ende – Bajawa, via Air Panas Mengeruda ; grade A, 120km, 3 hours. Note : don’t plan to short in Mengeruda (Soa), very easy to spend a half day there, especially if playing with local kids. Stay @Cinnamon GH, 250k for double with fan and hot shower (cheaper options with shared hot shower availlable).
D21 : First day in Bajawa : Watu Nari Wowo (Avatar Hill, sic…), Kampung Adat Ngada Tololela & Gurusina (very very friendly people, complementary views of Gn Inerie & Wolo Deru). Sunset from Puncak Manulalu (well… Heaven’s door Bar & Restaurant)
D22 : Second day in Bajawa : Kampung Adat Ngio (hardly visited, best view on Gn Inerie), Air Panas Malanage, Kampung Adat Bena (the most visited Ngada village (after Bela ?) in the area, we went there at the end of the afternoon to avoid tours, early morning would be fine too), and Gunung Wolobobo for a terrific sunset
D23 : returned to Gunung Wolobobo for sunrise with Gn Ebulobo in the distance (search for a track on the eastern slope, near the communication antenna). You can circuit the rim to the usual viewpoint (westside, sunset spot), the path is easy to find. Then took again the road to Aimere, visiting Kampung Adat Belaraghi enroute (the setting is maybe less rewarding than all the previous villages). 56km ; 1h30. The road to Belaraghi is fine, except the final part.
D24 : Aimere – Ruteng (105km, 3h30). Nice detour by the paddy fields of Wodo (southwest of Golo Loni) of Sunset from Golo Curu (nice encounters with locals). Night @Tange GH, 130k for room with outside (private) bathroom, no breakfast.
D25 : Surroundings of Ruteng (paddy fields north and east of ruteng ; Maps.me has funny tracks starting from Kenda), and the rather pleasant city itself (pasar, churches, lapangan). We finally skipped Liang Bua.
D26 : Ruteng - Labuan Bajo (130km, 3h30). No visits of the waterfalls close to the TransFlores (entry fee (with bule prices) + mandatory guide etc…). Sunset from Bukit Hercadi with very few locals (Bukit Sylvia & Bukit Amelia, just south, were packed). 2 nights @Wellamas Homestay, away from the harbour and its advantages/disadvantages. 230k for comfortable AC room with hot shower.
D27 : New road to Golo Mori Convention Center (another big money well spent…), with nice views on the strait separating Flores from Pulau Rinca. Some empty beaches (e.g. Pantai Pasir Pajang ; we were there on a weekday perhaps frequented by people from LBajo only). 30km (40 mins) one way, perhaps the fastest road of Flores…
D28 : Morning on the peninsula north of Labuan Bajo before taking a flight to Jakarta in the afternoon. On Google maps, the asphalt road only goes to Teras Langit ; it now (august 2026) continues to Puncak Basok and is still in progress towards the eastern part of the peninsula. On the way back, two other nice Bukit where you can enjoy nice views on the bay (and the resorts…) : Bukit Lontar & Bukit Beta. Note : we only found one public (and nice and quiet) beach in the area ; tagged as Sunset Point Beach on Gmaps. All the rest was closed by fences ; they are privately owned (although the Indonesian consitution grants the coastline as public space).
We're a family of five: one dad, one mom, and three kids aged 10, 15, and 18.
Before diving into each stop in more detail, here are a few general thoughts:
We wanted to sample a bit of everything Japan has to offer in terms of landscapes, accommodation, and transport. We were after walks, temples, restaurants, shopping, and some downtime—but no "all-inclusive experiences" or museums for this first visit.
Three medium-sized (60x42x25) canvas suitcases, plus a duffel bag and a few small backpacks. 23 kg in the hold on the way out, 60 kg on the way back. 36 kg of shopping, without even trying. I think this is the maximum suitcase size if you don’t want to stress on the Shinkansen: they fit easily in the overhead racks.
Round-trip with Cathay Pacific, layover in Hong Kong: no need to collect luggage in Hong Kong—we checked it in at departure and picked it up in Tokyo, and the same on the way back (checked in Osaka, picked up at our final destination). This let us explore Hong Kong without worrying about our bags. Food and entertainment were pretty good—meals included a little Häagen-Dazs on each flight, and the entertainment had way more Asian cinema than you’d find on a Western airline, which was a nice way to see how much weight Western culture carries in Asia.
The original plan was to fly directly from Ishigaki to Hong Kong, but due to Typhoon Dolphin, we had to cancel the Ishigaki leg. Cathay didn’t bat an eye about swapping the Ishigaki-HK flight for an Osaka-HK one, even though it was twice as long.
We were a bit too attached to the idea of ending the trip with some beach time and replaced Ishigaki with Shirahama. It was a mistake—we should’ve visited Hiroshima or spent a little more time in Tokyo instead.
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
Hello and welcome aboard this new travel journal!
We’re heading off to Ireland together—a country I’ve wanted to explore for a very long time.
The moment has finally arrived.
We’ll be traveling as a family—my wife, my husband, and our 7-year-old daughter.
Here’s our itinerary:
24/07: Flight from Marseille to Dublin, overnight in Dublin
25/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
26/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
27/07: Pick up rental car, drive to Dingle, overnight near Tralee on the peninsula
28/07: Visit the Ring of Kerry
29/07: Adare, Bunratty Castle, Galway, overnight in Outheragh, near Galway
30/07: Cliffs of Moher, overnight in Outheragh
31/07: Connemara, overnight in Outheragh
01/08: Drive to Sligo via Westport and Downpatrick Head, overnight in Sligo
02/08: Slieve League, Silver Strand Beach, Glencolmcille, overnight in Sligo
03/08: Drive to Derry via Glenveagh National Park, overnight in Derry
04/08: Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Portrush, Derry, overnight in Derry
05/08: Drive to Belfast, visit Belfast, overnight in Lisburn (Belfast suburbs)
06/08: Game of Thrones filming locations: Dark Hedges, Carrick-a-Rede, Ballintoy, etc., overnight in Lisburn
07/08: Drive to the Wicklow Mountains, visit Wicklow Mountains National Park, overnight in Blessington
08/08: Drive back to Dublin and return to Marseille.
Cost breakdown:
Flights:
Outbound flights with KLM via Amsterdam for 3: 175 € + 40,000 Flying Blue miles (so essentially a free ticket)
Return flight with Aer Lingus for 3: 489 €
Rental car:
10 days booked with Enterprise via Carigami: 443 € including zero-excess insurance.
Accommodation:
Dublin: 3 nights at Maldron Hotel New Cross: 394 €
Tralee: 2 nights in a caravan (Ocean Trail Oasis): 292 €
Outheragh: 3 nights Airbnb, family room with private bathroom: 430 €
Sligo: 2 nights at Clayton Hotel: 456 €
Derry: 2 nights at Belfray Inn: 255 €
Lisburn: 2 nights at Temple Golf Club: 232 €
Blessington: 1 night at Baltyboys Lodges B&B: 158 €
That brings our total to 3,325 € for three.
On the ground, visits, fuel, and food cost around 2,500 €.
So this was quite an expensive trip.
A few price examples:
1 liter of unleaded fuel: 1.89 €
3-day pass in Dublin: 18 €
1 scoop of ice cream: 5 to 6.5 €
Castle visit: 15 € per person
A coffee: 3-4 €
A glass of wine at a restaurant: 8-10 €
A half-pint of Guinness: 7-12 €
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of our adventure in Ireland:
From one valley to the next, the weather shifts dramatically—gray and rainy one minute, bright sunshine the next. It’s pretty impressive!
The descent is under rain, through forests and lush green landscapes.
We lose the sun-and-rain game—it’s pouring when we arrive in Bergen. After a 15-minute walk, we reach our hotel soaked (a little tip I’d recommend: bring a large zip-lock bag to protect city maps or hiking maps—it came in handy a few times during our trip).
We do a quick load of laundry and grab a bite in our room before heading back out to explore Bergen, now that the rain has stopped (for now).
A lovely end to the day before we rest up—tomorrow we plan to visit the city.
Around 1:30 PM, we boarded the last shuttle back to our boat. It was time to head back to Ålesund. We were lucky—the entire return trip was rain-free, and we even got a bit of sunshine. It was gorgeous!
Around 5 PM, we docked in Ålesund. I unloaded our suitcases while my partner got the car. The hotel was just a few minutes away. We parked and discovered our huge room with a view of the harbor. We didn’t linger in the hotel and hurried out to explore the city, taking advantage of a lull in the weather.
From the harbor, we got a few views of the city and its surprising Art Nouveau style.
When we arrive in Linge, we take our very first ferry. The system is well thought out: numbered rows are marked on the ground, and cars line up one after another, filling row 1 first, then row 2, and so on. The boat finally arrives, opens its large “jaws,” and “swallows” us. It drops us off in Eidsdal after a short ten-minute crossing.
We continue toward the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We reach it from the Ørnevegen (Eagle Road) coming from the north, which gives us a fantastic view of the fjord. To top it off, the sun is out!
Around 5 PM, we arrive at our host’s place. He’s really nice and speaks French, which makes conversation much easier and lets us ask questions more freely.
In the house, shoes are not allowed, so he lends us some sandals—so sexy!
We continue our route through the forest. The path is steep, long, and sometimes a bit tricky.
This 2 km hike, much easier and shorter, is supposed to take us to Storseterfossen, a large waterfall. Along the way, we come across sheep resting while grazing on the grass within reach.
We finally hear the loud sound of water, spot the waterfall from a distance… and make out tiny-looking people next to this massive waterfall! It’s impressive to hear and see!!
We’re only on the other side of the fjord, but the landscapes are so different from this morning… here, the area is lush and green—it’s incredible. We descend along the small path carved into the rock, allowing us to go behind the waterfall. The 300-meter waterfall is even more impressive from this side! Time is passing, so we head back down toward the starting point. We don’t take the exact same path as on the way up—bad idea! The path is just as tough as this morning’s, full of mud and very slippery.
We finally make it back and return to our host, who makes my partner do some stretches and offers him a pine-scented foot bath!
After a good shower, we set off on foot to the restaurant. It’s an old farm with a stunning view of the fjord… another great moment, especially since the food is delicious.
We head back as night falls, exhausted from this day of hiking.
For practical info and photos, meet up here: J10 - Exploring the Geirangerfjord
The end of the road leads us to the entrance of Kjenndalsbreen. We pass through a small, unmanned toll booth—the Norwegians must assume people are responsible and honest. At first, we struggle to understand how it works, but it’s actually quite simple: just write your license plate number on the envelope (which has carbon paper so you can keep a copy to place behind your windshield), insert the money, and seal it. The envelope then goes into a box.
After parting with 40 kroner, we continue the last stretch of road to a parking lot where we leave our car.
On the way back, we take advantage of the nearly empty path to snap some photos of the enormous waterfall from below. We learn that 10,000 liters of water fall every second—yikes!
We return to Olden after a quick stop for supplies on the way.
Another truly beautiful day, with colors we’d never seen in real life before!
We took Route 55, or Sognefjellet, Europe’s highest road, built in 1939 by unemployed workers. The first part of the route took us through forests, tiny charming churches, and already offered some lovely viewpoints. But the real highlight came at the top, where snow lined the road and turned the blue/green/yellow landscapes into something like a watercolor painting.
We headed to the Urnes ferry dock to catch the boat to Solvorn, just across the Lustrafjord. We missed one ferry by minutes, but no rush—we had time to wait for the next.
We settled in quickly and wandered around the village.
Back at the house, with a stunning view of the fjord.
We arrive at the Breheimsenteret, the glacier’s visitor center. It has a funny helmet-like shape that we love. The employee tells us we’re late and need to hurry so we don’t miss our group—what?! We thought we were on time... He informs us there’s still a ten-minute drive to the glacier parking lot, then about a 45-minute walk to the foot of the glacier.
When we arrive at the parking lot, we don’t see anyone or anything, but we spot a group that’s already started the hike to reach the foot of the glacier.
We rush to catch up, thinking we’re really late. In 35 minutes, we reach them—but the guide tells us it’s not our group, that the meet-up spot is at the parking lot, and that he can’t help us because all the equipment is in a cabin there—no!!! What a letdown!
It’s clearly stated on the website and the ticket that the parking lot is the meet-up spot, but the visitor center employee misled us, and with the stress of not seeing anyone there, we started the hike when we should’ve waited for our guide.
We take a moment to recover from the disappointment, regain some energy (after a tiring, fast-paced hike over rocks!!), and still enjoy the magnificent scenery.
Once again, the colors are extraordinary, and there are very few people, which lets us fully soak in the place. Seeing the glacier up close is still incredibly impressive—it’s a real feast for the eyes.
Disappointed, we eventually head back down to our car. We need to do some shopping and fill up the gas tank. We decide to check out the Styggevatnet dam, located further north. We cross beautiful valleys and arrive in front of an enormous wall of rocks—impressive!
On the way back, we take the time to visit the Kaupanger Stave Church. It’s closed, but the view from the outside is really nice.
To "drown" our disappointment, we have a little apéritif in the B&B’s lounge before eating and going to bed with beautiful memories, despite everything.
… there’s a roundabout *inside* it!!! Un-be-lievable!!! We’d never seen anything like it before—it’s such a weird effect!
We come across a massive suspension bridge—so impressive!
Nothing’s on the schedule, so we enjoy the drive and make a few stops.
We decide to check out a huge waterfall called Voringfossen, which is actually a collection of several falls. It’s truly breathtaking. A paved path leads to different viewpoints so you can really take in the scenery.
Next to the parking lot, there’s a restaurant open and picnic tables outside. We grab a bite—me, a sandwich, and my husband, a huge bowl of salmon soup with a slice of bread he bought from the restaurant.
We hit the road again and spot quite a few orchards along the way. Every now and then, we see little roadside huts selling fruit—honor-system style!
We arrive in Odda in the late afternoon and decide to scout out the parking spot for tomorrow’s hike so we’re not caught off guard or waste time looking for it.
The nerves are starting to kick in a little… this hike is *the* hike, and we’re hoping we’re prepared enough. We see people coming back down, looking completely wiped out—definitely not reassuring!
After scouting, we head to our hotel, just 20 minutes from the parking lot. The staff gives us tons of tips for tomorrow (so nice!) and upgrades us: we get a huge room with a big bathtub and a balcony overlooking the fjord—amazing! The sun’s back out, and it’s perfect.
We explore this little town, which seems to have had a big industrial past but now looks a bit abandoned. The town itself is super cute with its colorful facades, and we really like it.
At the 3rd kilometer, it’s back to a massive climb—tough, but we push through! We keep moving and slowly see the kilometer markers counting down the remaining distance.
The kilometers pass, and we feel like we’ve landed on Mars. The landscapes are super rocky, and the snow-capped peaks in the distance add to the beauty of the place.
The night before, the hotel employee told us to bring water but not to overpack since we’d find some along the way—but we forgot to ask how we were supposed to find it. Of course, no faucets, no huts, nothing to refill our slowly emptying bottles.
After 4 hours and 15 minutes, we finally reach the end of the 11 km trail and discover the famous Trolltunga!!!!
What a relief and what a joy to have made it!!!
A few groups are already there—it’s really impressive—and a little stressful to see people lining up to get their shot on that rock over the void! We take our place in the small queue and manage to get our photo pretty quickly.
We timed it well because after eating a sandwich, the line got *a lot* longer!
Up there, the wind is freezing, and the picnic is chilly, but the sun is absolutely stunning.
We finally start the descent after an hour and a half break.
The water problem is quickly solved—we refill our bottles from natural springs flowing down the rocks. The water’s good and refreshing, which is great!
We start to really feel the kilometers with a few energy dips, and some parts are done in silence. But the beauty of the landscapes keeps us going.
The last kilometer is just like the first—vertigo-inducing! We descend from rock to rock, and our joints take a beating.
But we finally make it back at 5:30 PM after 10 hours and 30 minutes of hiking (9 hours of actual walking)—we’re exhausted but so proud of ourselves!!!
We pay for the parking at the shop, stretch, clean our muddy shoes, and head back to the hotel.
After a well-deserved shower, we treat ourselves to a little bar/snack restaurant. It’s not gourmet, but it’s good enough to feel like we’ve earned it after such an amazing day!
We’re sore all over and fall asleep like babies by 9:30 PM!
WE DID IT!!!
We drive along the fjords and pass through villages where fruit farming is well-developed. We spot those famous little huts with self-service fruit stands by the roadside.
We finally arrive in Bergen around noon. We drop off our bags at the hotel (a chain hotel with no charm, chosen for its proximity to the bus station) and head to fill up the gas tank before returning the car. The guy asks if we want to check the car together or if he’ll do it alone later… No way! We check the car right away together (and we’re glad we didn’t let him do it alone…).
He inspects the car *super* carefully (unlike when we picked it up, when we were alone, as usual), making sure the doors don’t have the slightest scratch, running his hand under the bumper and over the windshield… O_O
Just as we’re about to give up and leave, he finally finds a tiny scratch on the windshield. Of course, since we didn’t hit any gravel during our trip, we’re sure the scratch was already there but we just didn’t see/feel it (it was raining the day we picked up the car, and we weren’t sneaky enough to run our hands over the windshield). We explain all this and leave with a bit of stress and uncertainty about how much we might be charged… In the end, we didn’t have to pay anything, but it was a good lesson for future rentals (always run your hand under the car and over the windows!!).
We take the tram (less than a 5-minute walk away) back to the city center.
Our trip is coming to an end—we’re heading home tomorrow. So, we scope out where to buy bus tickets to the airport before wandering around town… Turns out, we have to go to the tourist office by the harbor to buy the tickets (though apparently, you can also buy them on the spot from a vendor the same day?). Off we go! The weather is incredible—so different from what we had just a few days ago. It’s 24°C (75°F) and we’re in T-shirts!
We revisit the harbor and Bryggen, which we’d seen under gray skies before—it’s so much prettier in the sun, no denying it!
After this super pleasant stroll, we head back to the hotel to pack for tomorrow before going out for one last Norwegian meal. We’re lucky—they seat us right away. The restaurant is small and super warm, but the food is excellent (and the bill steep, as usual in this country!).
A droite, le "marqueur" de l'accueil, ces dattes qu'on vous offre partout en signe d'hospitalité. A gauche, un hommage à ces sublimes portes usées par les temps, qu'on admire un peu partout dans les quartiers anciens, y compris ceux qui sont abandonnés.
L'hospitalité vous conduira à accepter aussi souvent un petit café, un "omani café", très léger, parfumé subtilement avec de la cardamome, pourquoi pas un peu de safran, et éventuellement un peu d'eau de rose.
J'ai ici représenté un homme dans l'habit commun usuel de tous les omanais : la dishdasha, majoritairement blanche (en semaine, en journée, la couleur est davantage pour le soir ou le vendredi et le samedi). Même si l'on voit des hommes habillés à l'occidentale, ils sont très peu nombreux. La dishdasha blanche est vraiment l'habit commun partagé par tous les hommes. La dishdasha, qui n'a pas de capuche, se distingue par un petit pompon accroché au col, la furakha, qu'on imbibe de parfum. Et croyez moi, les omanais en abusent! "ça sent le pompon" est une expression qui est maintenant passée dans notre langage commun, à mon mari et moi.
Autre incontournable de la tenue masculine, la kuma, ce petit couvre-chef rond, la plupart du temps blanc rehaussé de motifs aux couleurs vives. Le keffieh est aussi porté (mais sans le cordon appelé agal dans les pays arabes), et il est plutôt arboré par ceux dont les racines sont dans le désert, de ce que j'en ai compris.
Et les femmes, me direz vous? Voilées, pour certaines en noir intégral (mais pas la burka, plutôt le chador + Abaya), du fait de l'influence de l'Arabie et des émirats arabes unis, alors que le vêtement traditionnel était auparavant plutôt une superposition de robes très colorées. La plupart des femmes que nous avons vues portaient plutôt une tenue neutre, un voile uni sur les cheveux, mais le visage découvert. Nous avons vu aussi beaucoup de saris et de voiles colorés, il ne faut pas oublier que 40% de la population est constituée d'immigrants indiens, népalais, bengalais, qui travaillent beaucoup dans le tourisme, l'hôtellerie et la restauration, les services, mais aussi tous les travaux ouvriers.
Je précise qu'en tant que touriste il n'y a aucune pression pour porter un voile, jamais de regards désapprobateurs d'aucune sorte. Bien sûr, on gardera pour la terrasse de l'hôtel les mini shorts, les décolletés plongeants, les épaules et ventres dénudés, mais j'ai envie de dire que c'est pareil pour les hommes et les femmes et que le soleil étant vif c'est aussi meilleur pour la peau.
Voici pour cette introduction ! Au prochain post, je vous parlerai de mon itinéraire et on pourra se lancer!
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
Les ronds-points sont particulièrement intéressants puisqu'on y retrouve des emblèmes de la culture turkmène, soit le chien, soit un tapis, soit le cheval Ahal Teke soit des symboles musulmans, même si la présence d'artefacts islamiques est assez réduite.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
A little sneak peek?
The karst site:
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
