Après un premier voyage en 2009 (déjà !) où, en gros nous avions effectué un circuit passant par Hazyview, une réserve privée de Sabi sands, Santa Lucia et l’Isimanglio, Hluhluwe et le KTP partie Afrique du Sud puis un passage éclair en 2013 pour nous rendre au Lesotho, nous avions envie de revenir dans ce pays.
Pourquoi pas la région du Cap cette fois mais pas question de revenir dans cette partie du monde sans faire de safari. Mountain Zebra ou le Karoo me paraissent plus paysages qu’animaux et Addo ne m’emballe pas plus que ça... Ce sera donc le Kruger.
Les tarifs, horaires et durées de vol nous conduisent à un Paris-Le Cap, retour Johannesburg-Paris avec British Airways, donc via Heathrow.
Reste à mouliner tout ça pour caser pas mal de choses, sans toutefois faire trop de km ni changer d’hébergement tous les jours, du moins dans la région du Cap.
Ce qui, au final donnera :
Arrivée au Cap samedi 10 octobre à 11h
2 nuits à Hermanus
1 nuit à Franschoek
2 nuits à Mountceder dans le Cederberg
3 nuits à Hout Bay
Le dimanche, journée de transition : vol pour Johannesburg, route en direction du Kruger, nuit à Lydenburg.
Kruger : 1 nuit à Letaba, 2 à Satara, 1 à Lower Sabie.
Dernière nuit à Mbombela (anciennement Nelspruit) avant le retour vers l’aéroport pour un vol retour en début de soirée.
Vendredi 9/10
Départ plutôt stressant.
Déjà, je me suis réveillée au milieu de la nuit, persuadée d’avoir inversé mon nom et mon prénom lors de l’enregistrement 🤪.... Pas moyen de me rendormir, même si je sais bien que British Airways ne me répondra pas avant 9h.
Bon, pour eux, tout est bon ... mais voilà qu’ils me parlent d’ETA ... un ETA pour l’Angleterre 😮 ? ??
Oui, c’est récent. A priori, ils n’en faut pas pour un transit air-air ... mais on ne sait jamais, il vaut mieux l’avoir quand même. Personne n’est fichu de me dire de manière claire et nette que ce n’est pas nécessaire.
Au final, on ne le prendra pas ... et on n’en aura pas besoin.
Oui mais voilà, notre avion part finalement de Paris avec 45 minutes de retard (10’ de changement d’horaire et 35 ‘ de retard au décollage) et nos 2 heures de transit se réduisent à 1h15.
Ça devrait le faire, non ?
Le tableau indique notre vol Porte B : super, c’est juste à côté !
Mais porte B, 3 employés sont là, juste pour dire à tous ceux qui se présentent que la sécurité doit se faire porte A ... et c’est parti pour une course le long des allées, des escalators interminables qui montent et qui descendent, un petit tour en navette, la sécurité porte A (« vous allez être justes ! » Ah bon ? 😠) puis quasiment le même trajet en sens inverse pour finalement nous retrouver à quelques dizaines de mètres de notre point de départ ! 😠
L’embarquement est déjà bien avancé, d’avoir couru on a chaud on a soif mais ouf ! Ça y est, on est dans l’avion !
Samedi 10/10
Par contre, rien à redire sur ce vol Londres-Le Cap qui arrive ... en avance !
J’ai réservé une (petite) Suzuki S-presso parce qu’elle paraît avoir une garde au sol plus élevée que ses consoeurs.
Malheureusement, nous héritons d’une Tata Tiago (si, si ça existe), plus basse (et aussi plus petite et au moteur encore plus poussif ...oui, on a pu comparer car à Johannesburg, nous avons bien eu une S-presso).
Tant bien que mal, tout rentre dans le coffre (« surtout, ne laissez rien d’apparent ! ») et c’est parti pour notre premier hébergement à Hermanus, sous un soleil radieux.
Nikki nous accueille chaleureusement, nous explique ce qu’il y a à voir dans le coin et nous conseille de réserver un resto pour ce soir.
Une fois les bagages déposés, nous filons sur le « cliff path » à 3 minutes du logement.
Cette partie de la côte est réputée pour la présence des baleines franches de juin à novembre.
Tuons le suspense tout de suite : des baleines, il y en a mais elles sont très loin et très endormies 😕.
Au mieux, nous verrons (photos prises au 600 mm):
Quelques remous ou un vague panache,
un bout de queue ...
... ou de tête .
Dommage, la propriétaire de notre hébergement suivant nous dira en avoir vu ici une bonne trentaine très proches début septembre.
A défaut de baleines, les damans (ou dassies) sont légion ... et rigolos à regarder.
L'autre star locale (quand il n'y a pas de baleine 😏)
Hello friends
Imagine waking up before dawn to total silence, crisp cold air, and a sky so clear that the Milky Way feels close enough to touch.
You take a deep breath, click your shoes into your pedals, and look down. Spreading out thousands of meters below you, bathed in the soft golden glow of the rising African sun, are the vast, endless plains of Tanzania.
Then, you release your brakes.
Riding Mount Kilimanjaro isn't a story of extreme danger or terrifying drops. It is a story of pure, unforgettable freedom . It is the feeling of accomplishment when you realize that you—on your own two wheels, supported by an incredible local crew—just tackled the highest free-standing mountain on Earth.
Here is what the journey actually feels like:Day 1: Entering the Enchanted Jungle 🌿
Your ride begins at the gates of the rainforest. The air is warm and rich with the scent of damp earth and tropical leaves. You're spinning comfortably up winding singletrack under a dense green canopy. Blue monkeys chatter in the trees above, and every turn reveals moss-covered roots, gentle gully berms, and loamy dirt that grips your tires like glue. It feels like riding through a real-life fairytale forest.Day 2 & 3: Riding above the Clouds ☁️
As you break out of the jungle into the open heather and moorlands, the world completely opens up. Suddenly, you are pedaling above the cloud line. You look to your side and see vast white seas of clouds drifting below, with the jagged peak of Mount Meru poking through in the distance.
The pace here is slow, steady, and deeply peaceful. Pole pole (slowly, slowly)—as the local Tanzanian guides warmly remind you. It's not a race; it's a rhythm. You pedal, take in the breathtaking vistas, share laughs with your support team at lunch stops, and watch the landscape shift from giant flowering lobelias to dramatic volcanic formations.Day 4: Touch the Roof of Africa 🌅
Reaching the high camps and the summit zone is a feeling that stays with you forever. Standing with your bike at the summit—or high up on the mountain's shoulder—is a moment of pure emotion. Standing on top of Africa with your trusty rig, looking out over the entire continent, is a memory that no race medal or weekend trail ride can ever match.The Descent: 3,800 Vertical Meters of Pure Bliss 🚀
And then comes the reward you worked for.
Dropping down from the alpine desert back to the rainforest is hands-down the longest, most exhilarating continuous descent in Africa. You float over black volcanic dust, carve through open mountain ridges, and flow down smooth forest singletrack. With every kilometer dropped, warm air returns, your smile gets wider, and the arm pump feels like a badge of honor."Can I actually do this?"
YES.
You don't need to be a professional racer or a daredevil. If you enjoy long weekend rides, technical singletrack, and a good day in the mountains, this ride is within your reach. With proper acclimatization days, expert local guides carrying the heavy gear, and a relaxed, steady pace, it is an achievable, deeply rewarding journey.
It's more than just a bike ride—it's an expedition of a lifetime that connects you with nature, local culture, and the pure passion of mountain biking.
Hi there, my wife and I are likely going to spend a week volunteering at the in Bela Bela, near Hatfield, during the third week of May 2027. After that, we’d like to rent a car and spend a week in Kruger Park. What do you think about the timing and the type of vehicle? Also, which spots are best for accommodation so we can experience the park’s different sides? Thanks.
Hi everyone!
I’m planning the Cape Town part of our trip and would love to hike up Table Mountain via Platterklip Gorge and take the cable car back down.
Is it safe to hike this trail in early January without a guide (there are 4 of us: 3 adults and a teen)?
If a guide is highly recommended, do you know a good one?
If we end up taking the cable car both ways, is it safe to hike the summit without a guide (Mc Lear's Beacon trail)?
Same question for Lion’s Head: with or without a guide?
We’re used to hiking technical trails (Réunion Island), so my question is more about the risk of mugging on these trails.
Thanks for your feedback!
Malijp
Hi,
The Wild Card gives access to many parks in South Africa. Since the card is cheaper if you choose the "couple" option, I was wondering what they mean by "couple." Is it simply 2 people, with no family ties, or is it the "official" couple as many people understand it? In my case, I’ll be traveling with 2 buddies. Since there’ll be 3 of us, we could take 1 couple card and 1 individual one.
Thanks in advance
📋 Yes, travel insurance is now mandatory in the ETA application.
Since October 6, 2026, the official Kenyan ETA portal directly includes a step to subscribe to mandatory government travel insurance for travelers required to obtain an ETA, even if you already have your own medical and repatriation insurance.
This insurance adds an official extra cost of $44 plus payment fees of $8, totaling $52 on top of the ETA. The ETA application cannot be completed without paying for this insurance on the portal.
In the end, Kenya followed the Tanzanian "model".....!!
Thirty years ago, I traveled to Zanzibar (Tanzania) with my children. Since I’ve since started a new family, I took the opportunity of a trip to Kenya to bring my new family along: my wife, who’s Kenyan, and my 10-year-old daughter.
Zanzibar has really changed in 30 years.
It’s become the island of taxes.
It all starts upon arrival: I think it’s the only country in the world, besides the visa, where Zanzibar insurance (and no other) is mandatory—it costs 40 €. If you didn’t purchase it before arriving, good luck getting it: the IT systems are unreliable. With a bit of luck, it’ll take at least an hour to process! And of course, this insurance is useless—if you get sick, it’s recommended to use your home country’s insurance because if you use Zanzibar’s, your national insurance won’t cover you anymore.
I wanted to show my daughter the red colobus monkey, which is endemic to Zanzibar. I paid for a tour that was supposed to be all-inclusive. First, we visited a spice farm, where a farm guide took charge of us—meaning commissions were involved, of course! The tour was very good and informative, though. When we arrived at Jenzhi Park (the colobus park), the guide told us he "forgot" there was an entrance fee (50$).
Aware of the system, I decided to book an Ocean Blue tour through the Zanzibar Tourism Office. After two hours of driving, we stopped at a beach—and were left there. No boat was ready to take us. Since my wife speaks Swahili (the language in Zanzibar), after an hour, a captain with his own boat agreed to take us along with his family.
Another attempt. The main attraction in Zanzibar (besides the city) is Changuu, the Prison Island. You have to take a motorboat and pay the captain, which is normal.
But in Zanzibar, to even get on a boat, you first have to pay a tax! Once we arrived at the island, it started all over again! Thirty years ago, access was free, and the entire island (about 1 km²) was open. Today, there’s a small office, and you have to pay a hefty fee to enter. But enter where? A paved path leads to about 15% of the island—the rest is off-limits. In total, I paid 100 € for my wife, daughter, and myself just to visit a tiny portion of the island! Avoid this!
For the rest of our stay, we stayed at a 5-star hotel with golf, horseback riding, tennis courts, evening concerts, etc.—undeniably high-level comfort. One last thing: if you want to rent a car, it’s affordable and useful for exploring the island’s diverse landscapes, but there are speed cameras at every corner on the main roads. The fine is supposedly 100 $, and it’s hard not to get one!
I told you: Zanzibar, the land of taxes. I used to think my country, Belgium, was the tax champion—I’ve found something even better!
I’d like to go to South Africa in August and plan my trip myself (so no travel agency).
Could anyone recommend a good guidebook, please? (Routard, Lonely Planet, Petit Futé, etc.) Thanks!!
Hi,
I just wanted to step in and warn people who are interested in doing eco-volunteering abroad. I had this experience recently and I’m really disappointed. Watch out for pompous and enticing websites, and their associated blogs where all the comments are inevitably positive. In my case, I went to Kenya after checking out the many sites of this organization (no fewer than 4 links), which boasted about organizing eco-volunteering and eco-solidarity activities, helping the local population, including an orphanage and a refugee camp. In reality, we ended up with a couple of opportunistic French people who treated their staff with contempt and authoritarianism, spending their days on the internet creating new sites to attract more clients.
No contact with the local population, let alone the orphanage or refugees, and constant denigration of Africans.
The presence of their staff, who were devoted and lovely, made this trip a success. We spent all our time with them and managed to ignore their bosses.
We left a review on Tripadvisor, which was quickly contested by the director of the establishment, but we don’t want to let people like that get rich by taking advantage of tourists’ generosity.
That’s what we think of Muringa Farm in Subukia, Kenya, and we’re counting on the forum to prevent others from being scammed. Thanks
I’m starting to plan a trip to Tanzania + Zanzibar in August 2027 for 2 to 3 weeks with my partner.
I’ve never been there before and I’d love some advice, especially for Tanzania where we’re planning to do several safaris in the North.
Specifically:
Do you recommend using a travel agency to organize the trip, or are guidebooks and internet recommendations enough?
If you’ve used a local agency (rather than one in France), which one?
Would you recommend hiring a guide for the entire stay in Tanzania, or is it better to travel independently except in the parks where I’ve read that guides are mandatory?
If you’ve used a local agency (rather than one in France), which one and at what price?
Have you had any bad surprises (hidden fees, inexperienced guide, poor vehicle condition)?
Looking forward to reading your tips! 🙂
Thanks in advance
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
For my 60th birthday (yes, I’m jumping the gun a bit!), I’m starting to plan a self-drive trip to Tanzania (in June).
I also considered Zimbabwe but I’m worried it might be a bit chilly at night in June.
I’ve revisited an itinerary I’d thought about before, tweaking it since I’ll have more days to dedicate to this trip. Still no big northern classics for the same reasons as before (too expensive, too crowded, too many tour operators).
Here’s what I’ve got so far:
(Arrival/departure from Kilimanjaro Airport)
Night 1: Arusha
Night 2: Arusha
Night 3: Lake Manyara
Night 4: On the way to Iringa (any ideas???)
Night 5: Iringa
Nights 6–8: Ruaha NP
Nights 9–10: Mikumi NP
Night 11: Bagamoyo
Nights 12–15: Beach
Nights 16–17: Lushoto
Nights 18–19: Mkomazi NP
Night 20: Toward Marangu – eastern Kilimanjaro
Night 21: Western Kilimanjaro
End of trip
All your ideas, tweaks, info, and suggestions on this route are welcome!
I could move one beach night somewhere else if needed.
Also, if you have a car rental company to recommend or thoughts on the bandas rented in the parks, I’m all ears!
Finally, what are the roads like in Ruaha in June? The rental company I’m looking at seems to allow this park with a small 4x4. (Off-limits: Serengeti and Natron)
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
I’m thinking (thanks to some tips from forum members 😉) of taking this route to get to the Cederberg.
Apparently, the road was damaged by the May rains, and traffic is still slow there.
Has anyone taken this route recently?
If not, is one direction (toward or from the Cederberg) more scenic than the other?
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Off to Southern Africa again! This time, the trip wasn’t just about wildlife—it was also about the local cultures and the breathtaking landscapes Mother Nature has to offer. It was an emotional rollercoaster in every way, as you’ll see.
We visited two countries: Zambia, known for its reserves, and Malawi, which is less well-known but absolutely worth a visit. Our flight landed in Lilongwe, Malawi’s capital, where our vehicle was waiting—though with a 3-hour delay. It was a 4x4 without the rooftop tent this time, since we stayed in lodges (prices are very reasonable in Malawi). Just a heads-up: don’t exchange money at the airport or banks—the official rate was 1,750 Malawian kwacha to $1. On the black market, the rate was between 3,000 and 3,500 kwacha, making the cost of living much cheaper.
With that out of the way, our first stop was South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. The first hiccup came at the Malawi-Zambia border: we were missing a document the rental company had forgotten. After some back-and-forth, they sent it via WhatsApp ($20 to get it validated by the police). But things got worse—the car’s chassis number was off by one digit from the registered one. I thought our trip was over before it even started! After what felt like forever, we got through with a "tip" of $200. Total border crossing time: 3 hours, costing nearly $400. We arrived in South Luangwa after dark.
Thankfully, the next day made up for it with an incredible day in the park (check out the photos).
We spent two full days in South Luangwa before heading to Katete for the Kulamba ceremony.
Kulamba is an annual event held at the end of August, celebrating the Chewa people, who live across Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique. The Chewa king attends, and representatives from neighboring nations bring offerings. Thousands gather for dances, speeches, and a massive market. There are few tourists, making it a truly authentic experience.
After a few days in Zambia, we returned to Malawi (the border crossing this time was smooth—just 45 minutes). Next stop: Lake Malawi.
Lake Malawi covers over 20% of the country and stretches 580 km. It’s home to a family of fish called cichlids, some of which are endemic to the lake. I recommend taking a day trip from Cape Maclear for snorkeling and to watch the fishing eagles swoop down to catch fish.
We hit the road again to visit Liwonde Reserve, where we had a few surprises. The lodge was on the other side of the river that borders the park, and the elephants didn’t seem to care. On the way from reception to our rooms, elephants blocked our path, and one even charged just before the stairs leading to our treehouse-style rooms.
To top it off, monkeys ransacked our rooms, tearing through plastic bags for food. A mixed experience, but no real harm done.
Next up: the mountains, specifically the Mulanje Massif. This is where Malawi’s tea is grown, and it’s also a great spot for day hikes or multi-day treks. The scenery is stunning, though sometimes the mist rolls in and hides it.
After the mountains, we visited another reserve: Majete. The park is growing and now has more wildlife. We saw lions and even caught a fleeting glimpse of a leopard. And of course, the elephants got involved again—this time giving us a real scare.
During the morning game drive with a guide, we stopped to watch a herd of elephants feeding. Everything was fine until, for some reason, a female got spooked—probably for her calf—and positioned herself in front of us on the track. After a few minutes, we thought the elephants would move on, but then a young one started provoking us. The problem? We had females and calves in front of us, but also two large adult males—one behind us and one to the side.
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
Hi everyone!
I’m still planning my Cape Town to Johannesburg trip in January 2027.
I saw a documentary about the San people in Namibia, and the same day, I stumbled upon the Lonely Planet page about !Kwah Ttu.
I checked out their website to learn more, including Michel’s travel journal about it. I’m really keen to go.
So, I’m thinking of dedicating:
- either 1 day out of the 4.5 I have in Cape Town...
- or making a detour to !Kwah Ttu on the day I leave Cape Town for Montagu, instead of visiting Franschhoek and its Saturday market...
To the VFers who’ve already been: is it really worth spending a day there?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Malijp
We're heading to South Africa for a month with 5 adults.
We'd like to rent a vehicle that can accommodate 5 people and all our luggage.
We're starting in Cape Town and ending in Johannesburg.
What vehicle would you recommend?
EDITH
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
Hi there,
I’m planning a gorilla trek in Bwindi, Uganda. I’m torn between the classic option (1 hour with the gorillas) and the habituation trek (4 hours with the gorillas but a more expensive permit). Has anyone done the habituation trek? Both? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback (including on the difficulty).
Thanks
In 1985, the film "Out of Africa" was released, which inspired me to visit Kenya for the first time a year later.
My passion for animals in their wild and natural habitat, and thus for safaris, was born while watching this film and appreciating Robert REDFORD’s acting.
Of course, the film’s director and Meryl STREEP also contributed greatly to this wonderful movie.....
In a way, I owe him this passion, and I thank him for it.
Sometimes, during safaris, when we had our breakfasts in the middle of nature, in one reserve or another in Kenya or Tanzania, I often thought of him.
May he rest in peace, far from our world of madness.
Thank you for EVERYTHING, Mr. REDFORD.
( In three weeks in Kenya, I think I’ll often be thinking of him....... )
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
I’ve read some travel journals here but I still have a question.
We’re heading to Uganda next February. The gorilla permits are booked, and the flight tickets are sorted too.
My question is about the chimpanzee trek. I’d love to know whether it’s better to book the habituation experience (4 hours) or the standard trek (1 hour).
The price difference isn’t huge, but I keep wondering and I’d hate to miss out on a great experience.
Hi,
I’m writing to ask for some info—I’ve heard that you **must** have travel insurance to land in Zanzibar.
What’s the process, and which insurance should I get?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Best,
Seb
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
