Ongoing discussions · South America

Hi everyone, I was wondering—I’m planning to go to Brazil on December 25th (until around mid-February) and land in São Paulo or Rio (since those are the only two southern destinations you can fly into from Europe). I’d maybe like to start in the south of the country—is it worth going there? If so, where should I begin: Florianópolis, Porto Alegre, or somewhere else before heading north?

Okay, I saw Iguaçu Falls in January 2024, so I’m skipping that stop during my trip. What route would you recommend to see the best destinations? I’m skipping the Amazon because of the rain—I only want to stay in dry, sunny regions.

Thanks! !

Hello,

Departure is getting closer (September 4th), and the itinerary is now more or less set.

In two and a half months, I plan to cover:

TRUJILLO-HUARAZ - CERRO DE PASCO - HUANCAYO - AYACUCHO - CUSCO - LA PAZ Bus: LA PAZ - PUTRE Then: PUTRE - COLCHANE - UYUNI - SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

If I'm a bit short on time, which part of the route would you skip? Northern Chile or between Cerro de Pasco and Cusco?

If, on the other hand, I’m ahead of schedule, I might consider going from San Pedro to Salta.

That’s it—thanks for your wise advice!

Vincent

Hello hello

It's decided—2027 will be Brazil, in the summer (unless you advise against it 😕). From what I’ve read, the weather’s okay, even if it’s a bit chilly for swimming. We’re going, as always, as a group of four, with our teens. 🙂

We’d be looking at a solid two weeks, at least 14 days on the ground. I’m planning way ahead to nail down an itinerary and book our flight tickets (the prices I’m seeing already are freaking me out…).

From my research, I’ve come across some classic routes: Rio/Iguazu/Paraty/Ilha Grande. Roughly: 4 days in Rio, 2 in Iguazu, 2 in Paraty, and 3 on Ilha Verde. That’d leave us one more stop on the trip.

Since we like to end with a "chill" stop for the kids,

My questions: - Is Ilha Verde worth it this time of year? I’ve read that swimming might not be an option—water’s too cold… So not ideal for a chill/relaxing destination? - How should we round out the trip in the South? São Paulo? Another stop along the Costa Verde? - Wouldn’t it make more sense to head up to the Northeast, where it’s warmer, like Salvador de Bahia?

But Salvador raises other questions: - Are there flights from Iguazu to Salvador? - And for the return to France, would we have to connect through Rio or São Paulo from Salvador? - Any suggestions for places to stay around Salvador?

Thanks for your input—I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I go along. 😉

Hi there,

I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.

I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.

I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.

I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?

What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?

Nath

Hi there, I’m looking for recent info on a boat trip with sleeping accommodations from Belém to Santarém. I don’t want a "luxury cruise for wealthy tourists"—just a bed with a minimum of comfort seems great to me🙂. I didn’t find any up-to-date details with Amazon Star. Do you have any companies, guides, or prices for this route to recommend? I’d love to hear tips and feedback on this trip, especially since I’m traveling solo. I’d like to get a sense of what to expect and ensure some basic safety with transportation. Thanks.

Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?

Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):

29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.

So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂

Hi everyone! I’m heading to Colombia in January 2026 and have a few questions. In Salento, which is better to do—Cocora Valley or Carbonera Valley? After that, I want to fly from Medellín to Rincón del Mar. Is there an airport in Tolú? I can’t find any info. Thanks in advance, and *buen viajé* to all! Kristian

Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!

The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.

Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.

So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!

Not to Argentina, though...

Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!

In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.

Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.

Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?

Are the driver’s license and passport ready?

Bank cards and a few euros too?

Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!



--/--

To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!

1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco

2- Around San Pedro



3- From San Pedro to Cariquima



4- From Cariquima to Putre



5 - From Putre to Arica



Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.

Hi there, we’ve decided to head to Brazil at the end of March for 2.5 weeks with our 13-year-old son. From what I’ve gathered from some research, Rio seems like a great destination at this time of year, and I’m thinking around 4-5 days to explore it—does that sound right to you? Copacabana, Ipanema, Sugarloaf Mountain, Christ the Redeemer, maybe a favela tour, or any other ideas?

How’s the best way to get around locally? I’ve heard about Bonito or Angra dos Reis and Ilha Grande—what do you think of those? Fernando de Noronha for snorkeling or even diving? Is Recife a good option at this time of year?

If you’ve got any suggestions, we’re all ears—it’s for our 50th birthdays! :-) Thanks so much for your help and tips. See you soon.

Hi Community,

We're heading to South America with our converted truck, which is a light vehicle (3,500 kg limit) that we’re shipping by boat in October this year (2026). But after weighing it, we’re at 4,500 kg. Based on your experience, do you think we’ll get stopped in South America (Uruguay, Paraguay, Argentina, Peru, Bolivia, and southern Brazil) because of this? Are there police checks for overweight vehicles? Has this happened to any of you?

Thanks in advance for your experiences and advice!

Les Megy Rozé Un Petit Voyage en Plus

hi there I’m leaving on October 1st for Rio, which I’ll be exploring over 10 days while staying in Copacabana and Ipanema. After that, I’m heading to Ilha Grande, Paraty, and finally a flight to Iguaçu. I’d love to hear your thoughts on Rio. Is it possible to walk around and explore without constantly worrying about getting my phone snatched? I’m traveling alone and don’t speak Portuguese. I need GPS to get around. I love walking and don’t really like taking taxis, which is why I’ve booked two places to stay in Rio to experience different neighborhoods. But is this doable given the security concerns there?! In short, can you travel peacefully? Thanks for your feedback if you’ve been to Rio! Best,

Hi everyone, we're heading to Brazil for two weeks during the Easter holidays. Arriving in Rio and departing from São Paulo. Any recommendations for hotels, guides, or must-see spots? I’d like to organize everything myself with reliable local drivers, and I’m looking for nice, comfortable accommodations considering my 5-year-old son. Thanks so much! Emilie

Hi everyone, We’re planning 40 days in Uruguay and Argentina in February and March, trying to avoid as much rain as possible. We’re thinking of starting in Buenos Aires, then heading to Bariloche, and from there flying to Córdoba, Mendoza, or Salta. Maybe by bus or renting a car to explore each region. Do you have any suggestions or tips for us? We love picturesque, historic cities and landscapes. As seasoned travelers, we’re used to planning our trips ourselves. Thanks in advance!

My buddy Christian and I (Patrick) are off for 28 days in Argentina in March. We’ve already shared several trips as a duo (Bolivia Peru, Namibia, Laos, Costa Rica). Since we’re starting from the idea that at our age (65) we won’t be coming back here—there are just too many other corners of the world to discover—we did the "grand tour" of Argentina, with 6 domestic flights to make the most of our 28 days. Here are our stops: 1) Departure from Brussels to Buenos Aires via Madrid 2) Arrival and first contact with Buenos Aires 3) Early morning flight to Ushuaia. Boat trip on the Beagle Channel 4) Ushuaia: hikes in Tierra del Fuego National Park 5) Ushuaia: last hike and flight to El Calafate 6) El Calafate to El Chaltén by bus. First hike 7) El Chaltén: hike 8) El Chaltén: hike 9) El Chaltén: hike and bus back to El Calafate 10) El Calafate: Perito Moreno Glacier 11) Flight to Bariloche. Car rental and surrounding areas 12) Seven Lakes Region 13) Nahuel Huapi National Park region 14) Flight to Salta. Car rental 15) To Tilcara 16) To Humahuaca 17) To Purmamarca 18) To Jujuy via the salt flats 19) To Cafayate 20) Around Cafayate 21) To Cachi 22) Back to Salta 23) Flight to Iguazu 24) Waterfalls on the Argentine side 25) Waterfalls on the Brazilian side and flight to Buenos Aires 26) Buenos Aires 27) Return flight 28) Morning arrival Happy reading!..

Hi,

We’ve planned our road trip in Chile, and the only thing left is to book the TABSA ferry from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams. Problem: the ferry that leaves Punta Arenas at 1 AM isn’t available for booking, no matter the day or month. All the other departures can be booked, though. On top of that, Tabsa isn’t responding to any messages.

Does anyone know more about this?

Thanks in advance. Anne Marie

Hi everyone,

We’re planning to explore Peru’s main highlights and were wondering if anyone could share insights on the quality and comfort of overnight buses. If so, which bus company should we trust?

Thanks for your replies and suggestions

Hi, My wife and I are heading to Brazil from November 6th to December 2nd. We’ll be stopping in São Paulo, Paraty, Ilha Grande, Rio, and Salvador de Bahia. Could you recommend some nice, non-luxury places to stay in each of these spots? Also, any suggestions for places to visit would be great. Thanks in advance for your help! Marc

Preamble

I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).

So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!

We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice. For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.

We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.

Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).

Day 1 – Paris to Lima

Foreword I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.

Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).

Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.

As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.

Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.

Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.

Hi there. I already posted a message asking for advice about our upcoming trip to Chile. Details: Getting around by bus or train. Starting from Valparaiso, heading north, passing through cities and places to visit, then returning to Santiago via a different route. Avoid the beaches... Thanks

Looking for a female travel companion for a cycling trip (arriving by plane in Porto Alegre, Brazil, and cycling toward Montevideo, Uruguay, returning by plane to France from Buenos Aires, Argentina) – 1,500 km

Hello everyone! I’m planning a cycling trip across Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina, with a departure set for late October, November, or December. I’m looking for a travel companion to share this long-distance adventure with.

Experience: I already have solid experience in bicycle touring in Georgia, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan. Currently, I maintain excellent physical condition by cycling an average of 250 km over 3 days per week (4 hours a day at 20 km/h).

The trip & the pace:

Daily pace: Between 50 and 80 km per day, to make steady progress while taking time to explore. Accommodation: Flexible and authentic. We’ll alternate between wild camping, campsites, Warmshowers, small guesthouses, and budget hotels depending on opportunities and the weather.

Looking forward to reading your message and planning this amazing journey together!

Looking for a car with a French-speaking driver for late January/February

Hello, my wife and I will be in Cusco for a week in March 2027. I’d like to organize the visit to the site on our own, combining the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. We’d leave Cusco on Day 1 to arrive at the site in the morning, then stay in Aguas Calientes or Ollantaytambo, and on Day 2 return to Cusco while visiting the Sacred Valley. Is this doable? Looking forward to hearing from you. Cédric.

This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one. So, here we go...