Hi Dom, I don’t drop by here too often anymore. Covid has probably changed a lot of things when it comes to communication—Instagram and other sites have altered how we express ourselves online.
But today, stuck indoors because of the bad weather and feeling too lazy to read ("flemme" already means extreme fatigue), I opened my computer. Among other things, I saw a message from VF in my inbox, which I usually delete without reading. But then I saw Pondy—wow, that completely woke me up, and my chronic gloominess, fueled by the general mood, evaporated like mist hiding the Vosges forest.
I rediscovered your writing, which I’ve always loved, across the years that pass—or rather, flee.
I don’t write on VF anymore, but I still share tips now and then.
Spiders, like you, I love them. They’re the guardians of houses, feeding on mosquitoes and other invaders. But the world is strange: since I’m not vegetarian (unlike my granddaughters), I have to fight not to kill them when one of them screams and runs away at the sight of one. Sure, I’ve come across some not-so-nice ones, especially in Argentina, and I’d zip up my tent as best I could—just like in the forests of Laos, but there it was snakes.
Time passes, desires follow and fade. You have to surround yourself with old friends—"potes" and "potesses"—whose souls haven’t been as marked by time. You eagerly wait for them to shake you up and sweep you off into new adventures. While you realize that the foam (maybe not the kind Boris Vian wrote about) piles up like waves depositing layer after layer on the sand, all it takes is for others to blow on it—you, who no longer have the courage or desire—for those strong, beautiful loves to reappear beyond the chaos of the coming shipwreck.
I still write for various cycling or more technical magazines. Here are two texts just for you:
A bike trip this summer 2025 with two friends:
71, 72, 73... years old, tackling the Grands Causses
Is the goal of a bike trip to cover kilometers? In reality, there are many other reasons. Often, comments—or even reproaches—arise about travel stories where, supposedly, there isn’t enough about cycling. Do we have a completely clear idea of our quest when we set off on an adventure on two wheels? Obviously, everyone moves forward with their own reasons or intuitions, sometimes poorly defined, which the road and trails gradually shape.
Choosing your companions is just as crucial. Finding good company isn’t always easy, but you also have to ask yourself: "Am I a good travel companion?" Experience alone is necessary to start asking that kind of question.
This short 7-day trip—450 km and 6,000 m of elevation gain—from Montpellier to Marvejols left me with memories of conversations with my two companions and a multitude of architectural, human, and natural discoveries. The big climbs, jumping from causse to causse, were sometimes the occasion for long chats. At 71, the bike gets pushed more often on 6% gradients, especially in scorching heat, headwind, or at the end of a tiring afternoon.
My companions are solid. André, already a partner in beautiful cycling expeditions in high-elevation zones in France and around the world. Nicolas, with whom this is our first trip together despite a long friendship—both driven, even devoured, by the same lifelong passion: mountaineering. They say great loves can fade over time, but not this one. Our passionate exchanges ignite our memories, from the Drus and its prestigious routes to the north face of the Grandes Jorasses and its famous Walker Spur. The bonds grow stronger, and any notion of suffering disappears on the steep climbs as we reminisce. This parallel between mountaineering and bike travel comes up often, as many of my cycling buddies—men and women—previously practiced high-level mountaineering. Certainly, the notion of physical and moral commitment underlies both activities.
With time, maybe we seek to shape our trips differently, with more encounters than physical effort. Some might object: "You don’t need a bike—go to the pool and the restaurant with your old friends, and with a good bottle, the snippets of past life will be grander and more beautiful." But the equation is more complex: this desire to make our muscles work for days on end to convince ourselves we still have some control over time, which inexorably slips away, is probably the biggest unknown.
We left from André’s place in Montpellier. His deep knowledge of the city made it easy to escape a conurbation under construction with heavy traffic. Quickly, small deserted but steep roads opened up under our wheels. The meet-up with Nicolas was in Lamalou-les-Bains. For a warm-up, 90 km and, if that wasn’t enough, 1,000 m of elevation gain with a steady headwind. A tough baptism. By Lake Salagou, a magnificent spectacle unfolded: the ballet of Canadair planes training for water scooping captured our attention. It’s fascinating to watch, especially when there are several, the precision with which the pilots maneuver—often former naval aviators, used to landing in tight spots.
Nicolas was waiting at the agreed spot. The route would take shape based on each of our inspirations. Few constraints were imposed, except two: the bad weather forecast for the following week and my burning desire to cross the Grands Causses—Larzac, Noir, Méjean, and Sauveterre. The foundations were laid.
The route zigzagged between rivers and plateaus, dotted with a multitude of small towns or villages, true gems of French cultural heritage. The Caussenard habitat, recognizable by its thick walls and aesthetic curves, has long caught my attention. France remains one of the most beautiful cycling destinations due to its constant diversity. A Canadian cycle-traveler once told me he particularly appreciated our country for its multitude of towns with unique names and millennia-old churches. 36,000 municipalities—enough to fuel curiosity, even if we’re currently in a phase of regrouping.
Nicolas had the first idea: the Héric gorges in the Espinouse. But they’re not bike-friendly. We headed for the Col de Fontfroide. Maybe it’s not daunting with its 12 km and 771 m of elevation gain, but the previous day’s efforts had left their mark. Under an unrelenting sun, the bike got pushed for a long time. The place holds memories of resistance actions and recounts various combat operations from World War II. A sign even lists the number of deaths by country—a rare and striking way to illustrate the losses of that terrible conflict.
This second day raised questions. Is it reasonable to keep pushing ourselves with heavy panniers? The answer would come in the following days. Avoiding too brutal starts, the body—always accommodating—eventually finds its rhythm, and pleasure inevitably takes over again.
This southern region offers constant changes of scenery for the traveler. In just one week, everything blends in my memory: a parade of beautiful villages, countless rivers (some unfortunately marked as polluted by warning signs along the banks), and beautiful surprises. And always, a crush for the Causse Méjean, which unfolds like a Bolivian Altiplano, but greener.
These lands are steeped in history. There are places where the spirit breathes, as Maurice Barrès wrote about the hill of Sion.
The richness of traveling also lies in communion with experienced adventurers who carry stories from around the world. Travel is also about confronting old hands who aren’t intimidated by any difficulty and remain endlessly curious. Never jaded, always a source of inspiration. Their practices are a rich lesson. Nicolas, close to minimalism, travels without a tent, finding shelter every evening—an old bread oven, a church awning, or any other refuge on rainy nights. No stove either, often eating raw vegetables like fresh peas, buying big handfuls of pods. What characterizes them both is their even temper in the joy of living. Crossing Sudan solo during troubled times didn’t stop him from savoring a little French ride. That’s where the traveler’s spirit lies.
The tiny mishaps hold a big place in memory, like this path turning into a steep track before hitting a 100-meter cliff, making passage impossible.
The village of Sylvanès offered two beautiful surprises. The first, a wooden Orthodox church transported from Russia by train and reassembled by a team of young Russian carpenters in this Aveyron commune. The second, an abbey with 9 centuries of history. A surprising feature: the nave impresses with its size because there are no side aisles to support the vault, which enhances space and light.
The Grands Causses remain the striking image of this short journey. The tough climbs from the valley floors to reach them, followed by the reward when the space opens up and the immensity appears. But beware, it’s not always flat. A special spirit reigns on these highlands. Each causse has its own character: Larzac, empire of raw limestone; the Causse Noir, dotted with clusters of pines that give it a dark touch from afar; Méjean, the most airy, studded with flowers depending on the season and carrying an elusive celestial altitude sensation; and finally, Sauveterre, which transitions to more northern regions, opening toward the great Auvergne volcanoes.
The small towns also leave their mark: Nans, Meyrueis, or Saint-Enimie. Despite tourism during this long-weekend period, the atmosphere remains peaceful before the summer migrations. A memorable evening in a bar, in a packed room, watching the PSG-Milan match on TV—what a rare spectacle: a crowd going wild, crescendo, with an apotheosis at the fifth goal.
After seven days that flew by, our journey ended abruptly in Marvejols. The bad weather drove us from these highlands, André and I back to Montpellier, Nicolas to Paris. The latter pulled off a daring feat by crossing the Aubrac at night and in the rain to reach a train line to Clermont-Ferrand. There’s a god for bold adventurers without tents—an old communal bread oven offered him a dry shelter for the night.
Wherever it starts and wherever it leads, travel remains a source of wonder, and if you’re lucky enough to have good company, the miracle happens.
Text about my professional memories at the request of a classmate who wants to make a book where each of us, classmates, would let ourselves go to a certain frankness or even immodesty. Text limited to 5,000 characters including spaces—difficult exercise to recount a life, but we spend our existence being trained to write reports where conciseness and brevity are demanded:
I thought I was someone because I had just passed the exam. Shock—arriving at the Air School with my suitcase still in hand, my first contact was: "Drop everything and start running."
For the country bumpkin I was, a bit wild, not used to constraints and orders, adaptation was tough. After three years of prep school, the BDE (student office) was the lethal overdose. A school for learning cohesion, a few guardian angels like Teysson or Grosse Baffe (aka Zuzu) saved me, as did Condus, who had a soft spot for me.
From that period, I remember a mountain training course with the alpine hunters. Early morning wake-up to climb the north face of the Tsanteleina in Vanoise. Very early, the commanding officer gets up from the table, and everyone follows. Banga (P...) no, he tells me, "I’m not done," and we stay to finish our breakfasts before joining them. The instructor sergeant wasn’t a firebrand. I knew the route, and we reached the summit breaking trail. Another time, he was too lazy to get up, so I ended up in the brig for leaving with Pinky and Zuzu to the Aiguille Noire de Pramécou above Tignes.
And then there’s the day Condus intercepts me as I’m sneaking off with my climbing gear and announces as a "reward": D..., change into uniform and on the plane to Paris for the Ailes ball. Not my thing. I was really bored.
SLT, I roomed with two future top pilots, Z... and G.... But we’re not always wired the same as our friends. Flying wasn’t for me—I was more into the outdoors, nature. When I was doing basic aerobatics solo in a Fouga above Sainte-Victoire, I thought, "I’d be so much happier climbing." Clearly not up to what was expected of a future pilot, the DV (flight director) kicked me out of the PN (navigator-pilot) program, accusing me of doing it on purpose. Even today, I’m not really sure.
So I became a commando. One school replaces another. Salon, Nîmes. Again, not my cup of tea. I started living as an EP (platoon) commander. I met great leaders like Colonel Guéniot, or later as MSP (mission support) chief, Colonel Paloméros. Very strict but true leaders, and leaders who have your back. These two great generals deserve at least a chapter, but 5,000 characters...
On OPEX (overseas operations), Sarajevo marked me because I was in the thick of it—the real war. Sometimes scared, but I loved it. Maybe because I was young and found it thrilling, or maybe because of the taste for risk and toughness that accompanies my life. My room slowly collapsed after a shell hit the foot of the facade. The Serbs weren’t happy, French journalists were spouting nonsense. The F14s buzzing my TACP (Tactical Air Control Party) point on the mountaintop at dawn. When I got back, a text I wrote with a bit too much enthusiasm earned me the wrath of the general commanding the commandos.
But the most extraordinary posting was Albania as defense attaché. The ambassador and the first secretary, both homosexual, formed an as extravagant as unexpected duo—a drag ball in the hushed temple of diplomacy. Their little squabbles set the daily rhythm. I’d laugh despite my consternation. I lived in this very endearing country where you can say anything and its opposite—unbelievable stories like election days when, at the polling station entrance, a half-uniformed man decides who gets to vote with a silencer peeking out of his pocket, where ballot boxes disappear for hours, where a Greek MP comes to throw punches. A different logic, far from our way of thinking, but we’re still in Europe. And above all, I made friendships there that last to this day.
A final posting as zone defense EM (staff) chief with the impression of being a pawn in a crumbling state where ministries constantly trip each other up—enough said...
And then comes the aftermath. End of the game at 52. Another job awaits me: taking care of my parents. There’s no question of not giving them everything, no matter how hard the mission. I put the uniform back on for a few months by joining the reserve, despite my initial refusal, at the insistence of one of my former chiefs. Attached to the CDAOA (Air Defense and Air Operations Command), I reconnected with beautiful international maneuver experiences, including a final 12-day stint deep in Norway.
My parents are no longer here. With time regained, I’ve plunged into the world of bike travel and discovered many places around the planet at the rhythm of wheel turns, especially the great deserts—the Gobi and especially the Atacama, which I’ve returned to three times to explore for many months. Even today, it’s the terrain and nature that call me.
There you go, I’ve had a pleasant moment—thanks, Dom