Hiking in the Drakensberg
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
EL
Hi everyone, I’m new to the forum. I’d love to know if any of you have hiked in the Drakensberg, as I’m thinking of signing up for a trekking trip there. I’ve heard about the "Sentinel Ladders" to reach the top plateau of the Amphitheatre. Has anyone here done it? Is it as impressive as it sounds (I sometimes get vertigo)? Otherwise, what are your impressions of this part of South Africa and Lesotho? Thanks in advance for your replies. Elisabeth
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Hi,

Hiking—is that a day hike or a multi-day trek?

What time of year are you traveling?

The Drakensberg is stunning, and so is Lesotho. The Drakensberg is more organized and easier to plan for.

For day hikes, there are two gorgeous ones in Kamberg, around Cathedral Peak and Champagne Castle too. Same in Royal Natal. And in Lesotho... Basically, there are tons of spots with trails for all kinds of hikers. But watch out for the time of year—during the southern hemisphere summer, it can get devilishly hot, and in winter, the mountain conditions can be tough.
michel85200
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Just dropping a quick note. Not to add more for now, but so this post reappears in today’s list... surely there are some VFers with suggestions, come on!
michel85200
EL Elijan77 ·
Hi Michel85200, sorry for not replying sooner—I wasn’t home.

It’s a three-day self-sufficient hike with a guide (it’s an organized trip). Departure near Royal Natal, crossing the Amphitheatre via the ladders, hiking on the 3,000m plateau near the Tugela Falls, optional ascent of Mont-aux-Sources, and a hike along the Orange River. I was wondering if anyone has done this route before, especially the ladder crossing, which seems a bit dizzying, and could describe how it felt.

Departure in mid-November.

I’m still not entirely decided.

See you soon. Elisabeth
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Hi,

Yeah, I think it's amazing!

The simple hike in this area already is, but it's even cooler. Also worth noting there are horseback rides +++.

Hi, Michel85200, sorry for not replying sooner—I wasn’t home.

No worries! 😉
michel85200
LA Langme ·
Hi there,

We're looking for advice about the Drakensberg region and Lesotho.

Just to let you know, we'll be leaving St Lucia on the morning of Day 1 to head toward Drakensberg.

We'd like to do one or more hikes of up to 8 hours max on Day 1 and Day 2, but we're wondering if it's worth going to Lesotho.

What are your tips? Thanks
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
We want to do one or several hikes of max 8H on day 1 and 2

Hi there,

I recommend spending a night or two at Thendele (booking: www.kznwildlife.com/Tendele.html). At reception, they’ll give you a list of possible hikes with walking times and a basic map. List of hikes at Thendele: www.royalnatal.info/...-natal-national-park From Thendele, two hikes are (in my opinion) worth checking out: The Tugela Gorge is relatively easy (14 km and about 500 m elevation gain), and the end of the hike—especially the ladder and "tunnel"—is pretty fun. You’ll reach the base of the waterfall (Tugela Falls) #21. A bit more challenging and more "impressive" (if you’re not afraid of heights and have sure footing): "The Crack and the Mudslides" (#14). There are also plenty of short walks of an hour or two...

Another great hike—and the most beautiful—is the "Chain Ladder Hike" or "Sentinel Peak" starting from the "Sentinel Car Park," but it’s a 2.5-hour drive from Thendele! It’s better to stay at the Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge (that’s what we did) or at Phutaditjhaba (backpacker accommodation). Unless you leave early from Thendele by car, like this couple did: chouchou-chouchou.over-blog.com/...sberg-112860... www.tripadvisor.fr/...haba_Free_State.html

For Lesotho, ask Attila, michel85200, or voyajou (among others) for advice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
From Sani Pass, there are easy hikes to the north and south, taking 2 to 4 hours, for incredible views from the top. Sani Top Backpackers is really great. Otherwise, huge areas have burned, like everywhere in South Africa. So it’s not easy to choose hikes because the burned zones—or areas where it’s not ideal to trek—aren’t marked on maps or in descriptions. Only the rangers at the park entrances can give you advice. I’m in the Drakensberg right now!
BA Bananette Regular ·
Hi Pierre,

We’re heading to South Africa on 03/09, and I only recently found out that the country has been badly affected by wildfires.

I don’t know the exact extent of the fires, but I’m a bit disappointed I chose this time of year because it seems like this is a recurring issue, and strangely, almost no one on the forum is talking about it. I’ve even read several times that September is a recommended month to visit the eastern part of the country, especially for wildlife viewing.

What’s the situation in the Drakensberg? Have the landscapes been badly impacted by the fires? We’ll be spending 2 nights in Didima and 2 nights in Thendele.

Thanks in advance for any fresh info.

Have a good evening
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Hi,

In South Africa, fires are generally set deliberately to prevent them from growing out of control—in parks, along roadsides, and in the countryside.

It’s an old practice, also known as slash-and-burn farming, now called *écobuage* (controlled burning).

These fires also affect the Drakensberg.

Not all fires are started at the same time or in the same places.

A few photos in my travel journal 1.

It’s never really bothered me.

Yes, September is often considered a great month for wildlife spotting because, with the first rains not yet arrived, the vegetation is dry, so visibility is better. Also, water sources are fewer, so animals gather in larger numbers.
michel85200
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Hi there,

For me, Lesotho is a destination in its own right. Just a "detour" through this country is extremely time-consuming.

Your hikes are too long for me... But you’ll find what you’re looking for in pretty much all the "reserves" in the Drakensberg. How about checking out the KZN Wildlife website?
michel85200
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
It's just grass, so wildfires aren't too serious here. Clearly, people here don't seem to care much. But it's not very nice to look at, nor pleasant to walk through. In Eswatini, there's just as much. In Lesotho, less.
BA Bananette Regular ·
Thanks Michel.

I’ll take a look at the travel journal for an idea 😉 And I’m crossing my fingers for a little rain before we arrive

Have a good evening
BA Bananette Regular ·
Thanks Pierre.

What surprises me is that no one mentions scorched landscapes at this time of year (September).

I’m wondering if February/March might’ve been a better time for scenery!

Have a good evening
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
It seems to me that a lot of people who write trip reports or reply on VF about South Africa are overly positive, and not just by 'forgetting' the scorched landscapes.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
I just did two great day-loop hikes while camping at Castle Garden: - Hidden Valley, ridge to the north and descent via Sleeping Beauty, quite long but easy - Magnificent Valley, with a descent toward Pillar Caves, shorter and more adventurous The advantage of hiking in the Drakensberg and elsewhere in Southern Africa this season is that there’s really NOBODY around. South Africa is the land of car tourism... -
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi

I just did two great day-loop hikes while camping at Castle Garden

Just FYI Is this the right place? (Garden Castle?): www.kznwildlife.com/Garden%20Castle.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Yes, sorry, my mistake—Garden Castle, not Castle Garden. There’s a daily minibus taxi from Underberg at 1 p.m.
AT Atila Globetrotter ·
I wonder if February/March wouldn't have been a better time in terms of landscapes!

It’s definitely much more pleasant to travel at that time of year. Not really an issue in South Africa for wildlife, which is always around, and the landscapes and temperatures are noticeably better. Plus, it’s the ideal time for Cape Town.

July and August are only when you can’t do it any other time.

The only downside is the extreme heat in the Northern Cape.

Rain can ruin some days year-round.

the fact that no one mentions scorched landscapes during this period (September)

Simply because very few travelers have been there that month.
AT Atila Globetrotter ·
South Africa is the country for road-tripping

South Africa is like any other country—it’s all about the kind of travel you choose to do.

Some people don’t visit any wildlife reserves, others go mountain biking, and some even hike, though most prefer the classic routes.

A car is pretty much essential for exploring the country due to its limited public transport infrastructure and the fact that vast natural areas are often uninhabited and remote.

It’s even worse in Namibia or Botswana. And France isn’t exactly well-equipped either... You can’t be in a hurry if you want to explore the countryside without a car.
AT Atila Globetrotter ·
s:The Tugela Gorge hike is relatively easy (14 km and about 500 m of elevation gain), and the end of the hike—especially the ladder and "tunnel"—is pretty fun.

That’s *relatively* easy for a sedentary traveler. The end of the hike can only be done when the water level allows it. As for the ladders, they’re regularly washed away.

Check with the rangers on-site to know the current conditions on the day, not what they were months or even years ago.
BA Bananette Regular ·
Thanks Attila.

I realize our choice isn’t really strategic after all.

Oh well, it’ll give us a chance to go back and compare different seasons ;-)

By the way, I was wondering if the climate in neighboring countries—Namibia in particular—is also better in February/March?

We were planning to go to Namibia in May 2020, but this time I’ll take the time to think it through and pick the ideal period :-)

Have a great day
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Over the last 45 days, I’ve only had 2 days of bad weather, including one here 3 days ago. Mostly, it’s been gorgeous.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Yeah, but it's extreme in South Africa. In 45 days, including Lesotho and Swaziland, I only saw about 5 or 6 other backpackers. And in France, even if people drive to the mountains, many still hike. Not the case in the Drakensberg.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Pretty tough for a sedentary traveler.

And for my sister-in-law, it’s totally impossible... You shouldn’t confuse hiking with a Sunday stroll...

The end of the hike can only be completed when the water level allows it. As for the ladders, they’re regularly washed away.

No need to climb the ladder, and if there’s too much water in the "tunnel," just take off your shoes. If there’s *really* too much water, just take the trail that branches off 1 km earlier to the left—it leads straight to the base of the waterfall. (It’s not mentioned in the description; you just have to analyze the terrain.) The description says you have to reach the foot of the Tugela Falls...

Check with the rangers, not here, to know the conditions on the day, not what they were months, years, or decades ago.

That’d require them to have gone recently...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
AT Atila Globetrotter ·
. In 45 days including Lesotho and Swaziland, I only saw about 5 or 6 other backpackers.

The country isn’t really suited for public transport like in Asia or some European countries.

What’s more, taking the bus, taxi, etc. is often more expensive than renting a car.

The Baz Bus, designed for tourists without a car, is also pretty pricey.

It mainly serves the coast, too.

Plus, you’re not traveling at the best time for hiking since it’s winter.

That said, the crowds you find in the big alpine sites in summer are a long way off in South Africa...

Good news for hikers.
AT Atila Globetrotter ·
You often talk about stepping out of your comfort zone. For you, that might mean a 55-kilometer hike with 3,000 meters of elevation gain. For many others, though, it’s just about leaving the car behind.

Those people reading this could find themselves in serious trouble by following your advice.

Especially since, in this case, you’re making it sound like the hike is risk-free when it’s already claimed lives due to weather conditions.

I know that when you say *easy*, I have to translate it as *not obvious*. And *moderate* means *out of my reach*. *Very easy* might be doable for me. Think about those who don’t know you.

Would you have told your sister-in-law it was easy?

Well, before you know the person you’re giving advice to, assume they’re your sister-in-law—and that she might read this forum and take *easy* to mean *easy for everyone*.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
You often talk about leaving your comfort zone.

You must be confusing me with someone else—I don’t think I’ve ever used that phrase. In any case, it’s never been a goal in itself. On the other hand, the pull of the unknown (that’s not the case here) has pushed me out of my comfort zone several times. But not in the Drakensberg!

I know that when you write "easy," I have to translate it as "not obvious."

When I say "easy," I’m writing for people who talk about hikes... For those who aren’t into hiking, I don’t say anything. My sister-in-law doesn’t hike. A one-kilometer walk on flat terrain is her absolute limit, but she wouldn’t ask about hikes in the Drakensberg if she were traveling to South Africa. All the hikes listed in the Drakensberg parks show the average walking time and elevation gain (which, in my opinion, is pretty accurate, so it’s aimed at the average hiker). These hikes are day trips, so you don’t have to carry a heavy backpack. The Tugela Gorge hike is on a perfectly marked trail with no risk of getting lost. For an average hiker taking their time, it takes about 5 to 6 hours max (for roughly 14 km), with an elevation gain of 500 to 600 m and a gradual ascent without steep slopes. So, it’s at most a "moderate" hike. The person I replied to mentioned hikes of up to 8 hours; the ones I suggested are under 8 hours, and I specified that for the second one, you shouldn’t be afraid of heights and should have sure footing... though in my opinion, this hike is well within their capabilities in terms of time and the fairly moderate elevation gain.

Well, before you know the person you’re giving advice to, consider them like your sister-in-law and assume she might read this forum. If she sees "easy," she’ll think it’s easy for everyone.

Contrary to what you might think, I don’t give the same answers—or answer the same way—to identical questions on the same topic depending on who’s asking... certain details (previous questions, general interest in hiking, mountains, specifics about walking time, etc.) help me get a sense of the person.

What I *do* regret, though, is that the person in question (Langme) didn’t take the time to respond to those who made the effort to give them information!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
AT Atila Globetrotter ·
Topics aren't just read by the people who start them. They can even resurface years later.

Anyway, I'm neither a walker nor a hiker, and that doesn't stop me from considering a 15-kilometer hike with 500/600 meters of elevation gain. I'm not the only one in this situation. Every day on vacation, I come across "Sunday hikers" like me—worse than me, actually, given their systematic use of racing shoes and trekking poles where they aren't needed. I think some will end up using them in the city.

For all these people, please don’t exaggerate how easy these hikes are.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
This is a forum, we express different opinions, and that's normal, including about the difficulty of hikes. By the way, in South Africa, they exaggerate with their safety advice and instructions (like being forced to hike in groups of 2, 3, or 4 minimum in some countries)—it's easy hiking compared to many other places in the world.
AT Atila Globetrotter ·
It’s actually easier than some hikes I’ve done in Norway or Switzerland, but that doesn’t mean it’s risk-free—especially the gorge route that ends in a bottleneck. There’s no EDF dam, but the same kind of thing can happen.

Even an easy trail can turn into a real challenge if the equipment is damaged or depending on the season.

Tugela in March during the rainy season is nothing like Tugela in the heart of the dry season.

Plus, there used to be banditry near the Lesotho border. The safety warnings are still in place.

When it comes to safety, it feels like this is becoming the norm everywhere in developed countries.

Ever since people start tackling Mont Blanc in t-shirts and nearly flip-flops, authorities figure it’s better to overdo precautions than not enough before it blows up in their faces...🤪
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
To add to my info in this thread, I also hiked from Bushman's Nek to Sehlabathale Park in Lesotho—I really enjoyed it too (and then continued by minibus to Qacha's Nek, another spectacular route).
MA Marcmem ·
Hi, We did the 7-hour hike in Royal Natal Park called Tugela Gorge. We went in July 2018, and during the southern hemisphere winter, it’s not as lush as some photos online make it seem. The trek to the foot of the ladders is intermediate+. According to all family members, later in the season, locals visit the site after the rains, and then everything changes—but it’s hard for tourists to plan for that. Safe travels, Marc
TA TatyanaPastu ·
Hi Elisabeth,

I’d love to go hiking in the Drakensberg with a guide. Could you let me know which agency you used for the organized hikes? Thanks. Tatyana
Tatyana

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