J'ouvre une nouvelle discussion, suite à ma première, où je me posais pas mal de questions sur la faisabilité d'un tel voyage. Un grand merci à Pierre, Louison, LaLee, Swimmer, Max et Aliastoto pour leurs réponses avisées.
J'ai passé mes dernières semaines à lire des carnets et j'aimerais vous soumettre notre itinéraire. Nous sommes une famille de quatre, les parents et nos deux enfants adultes. Nous avons décidé que le voyage se fera en 4x4 avec deux tentes sur le toit.
Qu'en pensez-vous? Devrais-je laisser tomber l'étape Epupa et retourner depuis camp Aussicht, après avoir visité un village Himba (avec Marius), sur nos pas, dormir à Grootberg Lodge Camp, puis faire une étape à Otjitotongwe pour voir les guépards, avant de rejoindre Olifantsrus? Au lieu de monter jusqu'au camp Aussicht, nous pourrions aussi nous arrêter plus au sud au camping du lodge Mowani, ce qui nous ferais encore gagner une heure.
Est-ce que les étapes Spitzkoppe, Brandberg, Twyfelfontein sont bien ou pourrais-je les remplacer par autre chose? Nous aimons marcher, il me semble que c'est faisable dans ces sites.
Nous aimerions faire Olive Trail. En venant de Sesriem, avons-nous les temps de faire cette randonnée avant de rejoindre Gecko Camp?
Qu'en pensez-vous? Devrais-je laisser tomber l'étape Epupa et retourner depuis camp Aussicht, après avoir visité un village Himba (avec Marius), UN JOUR A CAMP AUSSICHT NE SUFFIT PAS POUR ALLER VOIR LES HIMBAS AVEC MARIUS sur nos pas, dormir à Grootberg Lodge Camp, puis faire une étape à Otjitotongwe pour voir les guépards, (IL Y A BEAUCOUP D'AUTRES ENDROITS OU VOIR DES GUEPARDS PLUTOT QU'OTJITOTONGWE : SOLITAIRE GUEST FARM, BAGATELLE PAR EXEMPLE) avant de rejoindre Olifantsrus? Au lieu de monter jusqu'au camp Aussicht, nous pourrions aussi nous arrêter plus au sud au camping du lodge Mowani, ce qui nous ferais encore gagner une heure.
Est-ce que les étapes Spitzkoppe, Brandberg, Twyfelfontein JOUR 10 ET 11 DORMEZ AU MEME ENDROIT PALMWAG, TWYFELFONTEIN SE FAIT EN 2 A 3 H) sont bien ou pourrais-je les remplacer par autre chose? Nous aimons marcher, il me semble que c'est faisable dans ces sites.
Nous aimerions faire Olive Trail. En venant de Sesriem, avons-nous les temps de faire cette randonnée avant de rejoindre Gecko Camp?NON TROP COURT
En fait, nous pensions faire la visite des Himbas avec Marius seulement si nous supprimons l'étape Epupa. Donc nuit camps Assicht, le lendemain matin visite Himbas et dans l'après-midi route pour Grootberg.
Si nous allons à Epupa, nous ferons la visite des Himbas là-bas, car comme tu dis, il faudra rester une deuxième nuit au camp Aussicht. Le trajet camp Aussicht - Epupa est beaucoup plus long que le trajet camp Aussicht - Grootberg.
Est-ce que Olive Trail est loin de Sesriem? J'ai beaucoup de peine à trouver des infos précises.
Est-ce que Olive Trail est loin de Sesriem? J'ai beaucoup de peine à trouver des infos précises.
La réception du Naukluft NP se trouve à une centaine de km de Sesriem soit 2 heures de route environ. L'Olive Trail demande 4 heures env. De Naukluft NP à Gecko Camp, il y a à nouveau une centaine de km soit 2 heures de route.
En partant tôt de Sesriem, admettons 8 heures, ça te fait démarrer la rando à 10 h, terminer à 14 h, 2 h de route = arrivée vers 16 heures. Tu dis envisager cela à l'été 2016, c'est donc l'hiver en Namibie, il fait nuit tôt mais ça me paraît néanmoins jouable... à condition de partir tôt (7 h du matin serait encore mieux) et en sachant que tu arriveras très tard à Gecko Camp (où par conséquent tu n'auras pas le temps de profiter de quoi que ce soit). 🤪
Tu dis que Twyfelfontein- Palmwag se fait en 2-3 heures, d'après Google Map, ça prend 1h30.
Ça fait une centaine de km, il faut compter 2 heures. Prévoir du 50 km/heure sur les routes/pistes de Namibie. Les estimations Google sont des estimations basses, il vaut mieux compter un peu plus.
Je te remercie pour ta réponse. Donc c'est faisable, mais un peu juste. Je vais voir si je trouve une autre petite randonnée à faire autour du Gecko Camp.
Il paraît que le camping à l'intérieur du parc (Sesriem) n'est pas forcément très sympa. Je me dis que nous pourrions dormir en dehors du parc la deuxième nuit, mais pas très loin, afin de profiter des couleurs chaudes de la fin de la journée une deuxième fois. Qu'en penses-tu? As-tu une idée? De l'autre côté, si nous restons dans le parc, il paraît qu'il y a beaucoup de bruit le matin, nous partirons forcément très tôt.😉
En effet, nous venons de rentrer d'Islande, très beau pays avec une météo assez capricieuse, les quatre saisons plusieurs fois dans la même journée, mais on s'y attendait. Par contre, superbe météo à Jökulsarlon, site magnifique, on a adoré. Je suis en train de trier nos photos et je posterai un compte rendu sur VF.
Il paraît que le camping à l'intérieur du parc (Sesriem) n'est pas forcément très sympa.
Je n'ai pas fréquenté les campings, j'avais choisi l'hébergement en lodges, donc je n'ai pas d'avis sur cette question.
Je me dis que nous pourrions dormir en dehors du parc la deuxième nuit, mais pas très loin, afin de profiter des couleurs chaudes de la fin de la journée une deuxième fois. Qu'en penses-tu? As-tu une idée? D
Si tu veux être au plus près du départ de l'Olive Trail, le mieux serait sans doute le camping du parc national du Naukluft mais comme je ne suis pas une habituée des campings, je ne peux rien te dire sur la qualité de son infrastructure.
En J3 : rte > Sesriem, et sunset sur la Dune Elim (pour un sunset vers 17h30-18h, quitter le camp vers 15h30 au plus tard pour avoir le temps de grimper la dune à son aise et profiter de la belle luminosité)
En J4 : matin : tte la région de Sossusvlei (tu devrais être rentré à Sesriem vers +/- 14h00)
(après avoir vu les canyons de l'ouest américain😉, tu peux zapper sans regret le canyon de Sesriem)
Vers 14h00 : rte > Naukluft NP (camp près de la rando Olive trail) avec sunset ds ce coin
En J5 : matin : rando Olive Trail
Début d’aprèm : rte > Gecko Camp pour y faire le sunset (et auparavant, je te conseille de pousser > Spreetshooghe Pass )
Ouest USA 2009 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2800143#2800143
5ème trip USA, 09/2013 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6186946#6186946
J'ouvre une nouvelle discussion, suite à ma première, où je me posais pas mal de questions sur la faisabilité d'un tel voyage.
Je suis allée jeter un oeil à cette précédente discussion qui m'avait échappée (pour cause de voyage 😉)
Je reviens sur tes remarques :
mais j'espère qu'on peut quand-même se balader un peu sans se faire manger par un lion😉....
mais que font les touristes en Namibie s'ils ne marchent pas? Ils ne restent quand-meme pas toute la journée dans la voiture?😏....
Jamais les hommes voudront venir, si nous ne pouvons pas marcher un minium.
C'était également notre préoccupation avant d'envisager la Namibie. 😇
Effectivement, on ne peut pas randonner partout en Namibie mais si on le veut, on peut le faire à condition de bien choisir des destinations où c'est possible, en ne prévoyant pas des étapes trop longues, surtout en été (hiver en Namibie) quand les journées sont courtes, sinon pas le temps de randonner.
En dehors d'Etosha, nous avons randonné presque tous les jours.
je pars cet été en faisant sensiblement le même parcours. J'avais prévu d'aller initialement à Epupa mais j'ai préféré zapper cette étape pour raccourcir un peu les trajets et me poser un peu plus.
Je ferai un partage d'infos après mon retour fin aout.
Bonjour
Juste mes deux centimes, Epupa nous a beaucoup plu, c'est très différent du reste de la Namibie, on peut faire une très jolie promenade le long de la rivière et des chutes, au milieu des chèvres.🙂
Dormir sous les palmiers au bord de l'eau, ça change et c'est vraiment un endroit qu'on a trouvé très agréable, un de nos coups de coeur de notre deuxième voyage en Namibie.
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
En J3 : rte > Sesriem, et sunset sur la Dune Elim (pour un sunset vers 17h30-18h, quitter le camp vers 15h30 au plus tard pour avoir le temps de grimper la dune à son aise et profiter de la belle luminosité)
En J4 : matin : tte la région de Sossusvlei (tu devrais être rentré à Sesriem vers +/- 14h00)
(après avoir vu les canyons de l'ouest américain😉, tu peux zapper sans regret le canyon de Sesriem)
Vers 14h00 : rte > Naukluft NP (camp près de la rando Olive trail) avec sunset ds ce coin
En J5 : matin : rando Olive Trail
Début d’aprèm : rte > Gecko Camp pour y faire le sunset (et auparavant, je te conseille de pousser > Spreetshooghe Pass )
Bonsoir,
Oui, c'est une bonne idée, je vais y réfléchier.
Je pourrais aussi faire:
J1 Windhoek
J2 Solitaire Guest Farm (pour voir les guépards)
J3 Sesriem
J4 et J5 comme tu le proposes
De ne pas aller au Bagatelle Lodge en J2 nous fera pas mal de kilomètres et de temps de route en moins. Qu'en penses-tu?
Merci Krikri, j'ai déjà lu ton carnet sur la Namibie qui est magnifique. Cela fait longtemps que ton site est dans mes favoris. Tu m'as par ailleurs donné des renseignements sur la randonnée Chesler Park Joint Trail. Nous l'avons faite en août 2014, magnifique, un très bon souvenir. Les 3 litres et demie d'eau par personne n'étaient pas de trop.
J'ai lu tes carnets sur la Namibie, vraiment sympa. En effet, Epupa a l'air magnifique, c'est bien pour ça, malgré les kilomètres en plus, que j'aimerais y avancer.
Merci Krikri, j'ai déjà lu ton carnet sur la Namibie qui est magnifique. Cela fait longtemps que ton site est dans mes favoris.
🙂😊
Tu m'as par ailleurs donné des renseignements sur la randonnée Chesler Park Joint Trail. Nous l'avons faite en août 2014, magnifique, un très bon souvenir.
Ah, oui, je viens de m'en souvenir en parcourant mes messages privés.
Plus récemment, je t'avais donné quelques suggestions pour l'Islande qui, je l'espère, ont pu t'être utiles.😉
De ne pas aller au Bagatelle Lodge en J2 nous fera pas mal de kilomètres et de temps de route en moins. Qu'en penses-tu?
C'est effectivement une solution surtout si elle te permet de gagner du temps par ailleurs. Quant on dort la première nuit à Windhoek, je trouve que cette étape n'est pas indispensable. Mais aller ensuite à Solitaire Guestfarm ? 🤪 Je ne suis pas sûre que ce soit le meilleur point d'étape, ça me semble demander un écart par rapport à la suite vers Sesriem.
"De ne pas aller au Bagatelle Lodge en J2 nous fera pas mal de kilomètres et de temps de route en moins. Qu'en penses-tu?"
De fait, ça rallonge les km. Donc, si tu veux gagner du temps, c’est une solution.
Mais cette étape, placée en début de circuit, est une belle entrée en matière (par contre, en fin de circuit, je zapperais), surtout si tu empruntes les pistes pour y arriver (ne pas prendre la route goudronnée B1 Windhoek-Mariental).
Et puis, ns avions aussi bcp apprécié les paysages entre Mariental et Sesriem (Tsaris Mountains et Tsarishoogte Pass sur la M36; et si tu as le temps, emprunte la C27 pour arriver à Sesriem)
"Devrais-je laisser tomber l'étape Epupa ?"
C’est une de nos étapes coup de cœur🙂.
Même si tu as prévu la bande de Caprivi ds ton programme (et que tu y verras donc aussi de l’eau et ts les animaux "aquatiques" typiques de cette région et bien différents du reste de la Namibie), Epupa Falls ns a énormément plu (même plus que les Vic Falls... c’est dire😇). Le paysage y est +++, et on peut s’y promener sans danger (à part les crocos ... donc il ne faut pas trop s’approcher de la rive)
Ouest USA 2009 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2800143#2800143
5ème trip USA, 09/2013 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6186946#6186946
Difficile de faire des choix, je vais sérieusement me pencher sur mon itinéraire.
Et si je laisse tomber la bande de Caprivi et j'étoffe les autres étapes? Tu as fais la bande de caprivi, qu'en penses-tu?
Si tu devais refaire ton voyage, que changerais-tu?
Je suis avec intérêt ta discussion
Nous allons faire sensiblement le même circuit en septembre prochain mais en lodge
J'ai moins de temps que toi et j'ai donc zappé Epupa, un choix difficile au profit de la bande
de Caprivi, du Bostwana et des chutes Victoria
Nous aimerions aussi marcher un peu tous les jours, j'espère que cela sera possible
autour des lodges....
En cela, nous avions beaucoup apprécié les USA !
A plus tard
La liberté, c'est un cadeau qu'on se fait à soi-même - (L.Gauthier)
Dans ma dernière discussion (http://voyageforum.com/discussion/droit-sud-namibie-d6858822/ ) je posais justement la question de cette fameuse piste C27
Donc elle vaut le détour ?
Je pense faire un arrêt pique-nique vers Maltahohe et donc rejoindre la C27 par la D830
Le château plus bas ne m'intéresse pas particulièrement
Par où étais-tu passé ?
Merci pour le renseignement !
La liberté, c'est un cadeau qu'on se fait à soi-même - (L.Gauthier)
"Si tu devais refaire ton voyage, que changerais-tu? "
Je ne changerais rien et referais exactement le même voyage 😉(voir le carnet de max68 avec qui ns étions partis).
Le combiné Namibie classique + bande de Caprivi est vraiment l’idéal pour avoir une vue globale de ce pays, tant au point de vue variété de paysages que variété d’animaux (et quantité aussi, en terminant le circuit par Chobe NP où les animaux de ttes sortes abondent). Il semble d’ailleurs que ce combiné est maintenant de + en + plébiscité par les forumeurs.
Certes le planning était chargé (hors de question de faire des grasses matinées ou d’arriver aux lodges vers midi pour y passer l’aprèm en sirotant l’apéritif), mais cette manière de voyager ns correspond (surtout qd il s’agit d’un 1er voyage ds un pays encore inconnu et qu’on veut en avoir une vue globale).
Pour ce voyage, nos journées étaient donc bien occupées depuis le lever du soleil jusqu’au coucher (ns sommes rarement restés statiques ds un lodge en contemplant un même paysage pdt des heures).
Cette manière de voyager a aussi été rendue possible pcq ns ne voyagions pas avec de jeunes enfants (qui se lassent plus vite de la voiture que des adultes), et en choisissant de loger et de prendre nos repas en lodges (il est évident que si on prévoit de dormir en tentes, il faut consacrer plus de temps aux montage/démontage des tentes, courses, cuisine, vaisselle, … ce qui nécessite d’arriver bcp plus tôt ds les camps).
Certes ns avons dû faire l’impasse sur une rando ds le Naukluft NP et sur l’étape au Spitzkoppe, mais ns avons eu le bonheur de découvrir Messum Crater, Purros, Susuwe Triangle, 3 autres de nos coup de cœur (sortir des circuits classiques est aussi devenu le leitmotiv de ts nos voyages depuis que ns avons découvert avec délice -car loin des foules- les spots peu connus disséminés ds le wilderness de l’ouest américain)
Tu l'as compris: je suis donc "pour" la bande Caprivi😉... mais encore une fois, il s'agissait de notre choix (semblable à celui de max68, ce qui avait rendu possible ce voyage commun avec nos 2 familles)
D'autres préfèrent moins rouler et étoffer chaque étape...
Bonne réflexion🙂
Ouest USA 2009 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2800143#2800143
5ème trip USA, 09/2013 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6186946#6186946
Nous avions suivi la route principale C19/36 (+ 845 à la fin) qui , à partir des Tsaris Mountains , offre déjà de beaux paysages.
Mais lors de la préparation du voyage, ns avions repéré le détour via la D827+ C27 parce que route réputée encore + belle (mais plus défoncée à l’époque). Ns avions calculé que ce détour demandait min. 1heure de plus.
Comme ns avions fait une petite rando matinale ds les environs de l’Anib lodge avant de ns mettre en route ce matin-là, et que ns souhaitions quitter le camp de Sesriem vers 15h30 au plus tard pour pouvoir profiter longuement du sunset sur la dune Elim , ns n’avons pas eu le temps de faire le trajet le plus long via la C27.
(toujours l’éternel problème ds tout voyage : à moins d’allonger la durée, il faut faire des choix...)
Ouest USA 2009 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2800143#2800143
5ème trip USA, 09/2013 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6186946#6186946
Salut, sans aucun doute la bande de Caprivi vaut très largement le détour et plus que çà.C'est vraiment une autre approche de la Namibie et un complément indispensable pour bien appréhender la Namibie.Je préfère deloin cette "portion" au Sud du pays (Fish river et rivière orange)
Nous venons de revenir de notre voyage de 3 semaines en Namibie.
Nous avons dormi au camp de Sesriem, il y avait pas mal de monde (des groupes). tu as un emplacement pour toi, avec un grand arbre (le nôtre était à moitié mort 🙁), un braai, prise électrique et une lumière mais elle n'éclaire rien, un robinet d'eau. Les douches et toilettes sont communes mais c'était propre. il y a aussi une piscine mais riquiqui.
Le matin il y avait des springbox dans le camp, sympa.
C'est vrai que le matin il y avait du bruit très tôt. Mais tout le monde se lève tôt afin d'être à l'ouverture de la barrière (5h15). Nous nous sommes levés à 4h30 mais nous entendions déjà des voitures.
Si vous dormez à l'extérieur du parc, l'ouverture se fait 1h plus tard. Sur la routes c'est la course ! il y a une limitation de vitesse mais même les guides du parc ne la respectent pas.
Nous n'avons pas fait le lever du soleil sur la dune 45 car trop de monde nous sommes allés directement sur Big Daddy.
A Gecko camp nous avions l'emplacement "eagle", trop bien ! j'ai adoré car tout était dehors : douche, évier, wc. Superbe vue mais pas d'électricité et le soir en avril-mai, le soleil se couche à 17h30 et nuit noire à 18h. C'était le calme absolu.
J'aimerais d'abord m'excuser de ne pas avoir donné de mes nouvelles plus vite. Nous rentrons de vacances et comme à chaque retour, il y a pas mal de choses à faire à la maison.
Merci pour ces explications, en effet, en camping, il faut prévoir plus de temps. Nous pensons bien manger aux restaurants de certains lodges, mais comme tu dis, il faut quand-même compter plus de temps...montage et démontage des tentes, courses, etc.
Je ne suis toujours pas sûr si nous allons inclure l'étape Epupa. Le paysage fait envie, mais il y a quand-même beaucoup de route à faire pour juste deux nuits.
Je pense que je vais finaliser les autres étapes, puis je verrrai bien s'il nous reste des journées pour ajouter Epupa.
Merci Virginie pour ton message. Je pense bien réserver au Gecko Camp et je me demandai justement quel emplacement était le meilleur. Donc j'ai ma réponse😎
J'adresse ce message à Jacqueline, mais il est destiné à tout ceux qui peuvent me donner une réponse. Eh oui, il n'y a pas la possibilité d'adresser un message à tout le monde, 😕 dommage, un truc qui devrait être amélioré par les administrateur.
J'ai décidé de laisser tomber le Kahalari, trop de kilomètres...cela me permet aussi de gagner une journée.
Je vais préparer le circuit par petit bout, plus simple et les questions/réponses seront plus ciblées. Voici les premiers jours.
J1 Arrivé Windhoek, prise de la voiture, nuit Windhoek
J2 Route pour Naukluft NP, nuit Naukluft camping 253 km
J3 Olive Trail le matin tôt, route pour Sesriem et coucher du soleil sur une dune, nuit Sesriem camp 93 km
J4 Lever du soleil sur les dunes, visite Sossusvlei et Deadvlei, route pour Gecko Camp, nuit Gecko Camp 120 km
J5 Début de matinée tranquille et ev. petite randonnée autour du logement, puis route pour Walvis Bay, nuit hôtel 243 km
Ou alors:
J1 Arrivé Windhoek, prise de la voiture, nuit Windhoek
J2 Route pour Sesriem, coucher du soleil sur une dune, nuit Sesriem Camp 303km
J3 Lever du soleil sur les dunes, visite Sossusvlei et Deadvlei, route pour Naukluft NP, nuit Naukluft camping 93 km
J4 Olive Trail, route pour Gecko Camp ou autre, nuit Gecko camp ou autre 105 km
J5 Début de matinée tranquille et ev. petite randonnée autour du logement, puis route pour Walvis Bay, nuit hôtel 250 km
Il y a une différence d'environ 40 km, donc pas beaucoup, quelle solution est la meilleure? Ou avez-vous une autre proposition.
Je pourrais aussi laisser tomber Naukluft NP et l'Olive Trail et passer deux nuits à Sesriem. Ce qui donnerait:
J1 Arrivé Windhoek, prise de la voiture, nuit Windhoek
J2 Route pour Sesriem, coucher du soleil sur une dune, nuit Sesriem Camp 303km
J3 Lever du soleil sur les dunes, visite Sossusvlei et Deadvlei, nuit au Sesriem Camp
J4 Route pour Gecko Camp ou autre, nuit Gecko camp ou autre 105 km
J5 Début de matinée tranquille et ev. petite randonnée autour du logement, puis route pour Walvis Bay, nuit hôtel 250 km
Si je ne me trompe pas, avec cette solution, nous passerons deux fois sur la même route (le bout entre Solitaire et Sesriem) à l'aller et au retour
Laquelle de ces trois solutions est la meilleure? Si nous passons qu'une seule nuit à Sesriem, avons-nous le temps de visiter les dunes, Sossusvlei, Deadvlei, sans courrir? Il me semble que c'est un peu juste pour la première solution. Qu'en pensez-vous?
Aucune info sur le trajet en cette réponse, juste sur l'adressage 😉
Ce que je fais, quand ma visée est collective, c'est que je m'adresse le message à moi-même, en espérant que les anciens posteurs n'aient pas supprimé mon fil de leur liste de discussions suivies 🤪
Voici notre planning remodelé, pouvez-vous me dire si cet itinéraire vous semble faisable. En gras mes interrogations.
J1 Windhoek
J2 Sesriem, coucher du soleil sur dune Elim Devrions-nous inverser les premiers jours? Faire Windhoek, Gecko Camp, Sesriem, Sesriem, puis Solitaire?
J3 Sesriem, visite Deadvlei et Sossuvlei
J4 Naukluft, randonnée Olive Trail
J5 Solitaire, guépard track et petite randonnée
J6 Walvis Bay
J7 Walvis Bay, sortie bateau pour voir les otaries et dauphins, sortie dans les dunes en 4x4
J8 Ameib, randonnée Bull's Party
J9 Spitzkoppe, randonnée Bushmans Paradise et autres petites randonnées
J10 Twyfelfontein, peinture rupestres
J11 Palmwag, visite concession de Palmwag en route
J12 Khowarib Que visiter?
J13 Epupa, longue route et arrêt ravitaillement à Opuwo
J14 Epupa, visite chutes et village Himba
J15 Etosha, self safari
J16 Etosha, self safari
J17 Etosha, self safari
J18 Etosha, self safari
J19 Rundu, self safari puis longue route
J20 Bagani, Mahango Game Reserve
J21 Kongola, sortie bateau pour le coucher du soleil
J22 Kongola, self safari Susuwee Triangle
J23 Kasane, route, bateau safari fin de journée
J24 Kasane, self safari Chobe NP
J25 Kasane, self safari Chobe NP Une nuit de trop?
J26 Victoria, visite chutes Victoria
J27 Vol retour
Non, à Kasane nous irons au camping du Senyati. C'est vrai, j'ai mis Kasane sans mentionner le camping.
J'ai juste un doute sur la première nuit à Kasane. Étant donné que nous aimerions faire la sortie en bateau et que nous rentrerons au camping de nuit, n'est-il pas trop dangereux de rouler jusqu'au Senyati? Ferions-nous mieux de dormir la première nuit dans un camping très proche de la ville?
Il y a aussi la possibilité de dormir dans un camping avant le passage de la frontière à Ngoma, mais on ne peut pas réserver le camp Salambala et j'ai lu qu'il s'est pas mal dégradé.
Il y a aussi Chobe camp du côté de la Namibie, juste avant la frontière, connais-tu ce camp?
Bref, je ne sais pas encore exactement où nous camperons les derniers jours de notre voyage. Pareil pour Kongola, à priori, j'ai pensé au camp Kwando, mais Pierre m'a suggéré d'autres camps dans les parcs. Je dois avouer, que l'accès à ces camps, pistes de sable profond, me fait un peu peur.
Voyager avec des enfants › Afrique du Sud / Namibie · 88 replies
A nouvelle année, nouveau projet. Cet été c’est décidé ce sera la Namibie! Comme j’ai déjà eu l’occasion de l’écrire sur VF ce voyage nous trottait dans la…
Nous partons mon épouse et moi pour nos 60 ans, l'été prochain avec nos enfants et petits enfants pour un périple de 28 jours en Namibie et Bostwana. Avant de…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 17 replies
Nous sommes 2 familles avec un projet Namibie du 27 juillet au 16 aout prochains. A part les billets d'avion, nous n'avons rien réservé à 2 mois du départ. Une…
Nous partons en juillet pour trois semaines à travers la Namibie. Famille de quatre ; 2 quinqua et 2 jeunes adulte/ado Nous allons louer un vehicule dont on…
Juillet 2019 le moment du départ pour la Namibie arrive enfin! Voici presque 2 ans que nous attendons ce moment. Nous avions envisagé de partir en Namibie en…
Nous revenons de dix jours en Tanzanie. Nous avons eu la chance d’être guidés par Gishaman. Toujours de bonne humeur, bon conducteur et très bon guide. Grâce à lui nous avons eu la chance de voir non seulement les big5 en une journée mais aussi plein d’autres animaux. Il travaille pour l’agence locale Blit Safaris qui a assuré un très bon suivi de notre voyage. À conseiller !
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
