bonjour
je voudrai savoir, si l'enregistrement journalier dans des hôtels ou autre est toujours d'actualité dans ce pays et si il y a toujours de amandes au passage de la frontière si il en manque, les posts du forum remonte a 2004...😕
Lorsque j'y étais en 2012, l'enregistrement quotidien dans les hôtels était effectivement encore demandé. Je me suis fait contrôler une fois mes petits papiers certifiant que j'avais dormi chaque nuit dans des établissement agréés, mais pas à la frontière. Je n'avais pas de papier pour chaque nuit, ayant parfois campé, mais le policier a eu l'air satisfait du petit tas en ma possession.
A Tachkent en tout cas, quelques hôtels et B&B (dont le populaire Gulnara dans lequel je me trouvais) refusaient à l'époque les voyageurs n'ayant pas de tel papier pour la nuit précédente.
Bjr
Comme toi cela me pose pb.
Jai lu une douzaine de blogs recents de ciclistes. Tous pretendent n'avoir eu aucun controle a la frontiere ni en route.
Un pretend avoir achete dans un hotel des nuits factices.
En realite la bonne question me parait etre qu'est ce qu'un touriste risque s'il lui manque des nuits ? Beaucoup de nuits ? Votre vecu ?
Merci Pierre
tout le monde prétend que la Terre est ronde, mais ne le croyez pas, en fait elle est plate bien sûr!
http://mandolpierre.overblog.com
J'ai passé il y a 3 jours la frontière Ouzbékistan-Afghanistan et ils ont regardé les petites fiches correspondantes aux nuits passées à l’hôtel. Par contre j'avais perdu la déclaration de douane faite à l'arrivée en Ouzbékistan et ça n'a pas posé de problème particulier (ils m'ont un peu fait attendre, les premiers douaniers ne parlaient pas anglais, mais j'ai fini par passer sans rien payer). J'ai l'impression qu'on arrive toujours à s'arranger.
Lorsque j'ai traversé à vélo de Tashkent à Kashgar en 2009, aucun problème particulier à la frontière Ouzbekhistan/Kirghistan (voir etchelec.free.fr menu Tashkent-Kashgar)
j'ai regardé ton site(super) que je vais encore mieux Etudier.je pense descendre au sud a Kashgar pour aller sur le Tibet et Katmandou, a partir de la frontière chinoise pas de problème pour passer seul avec un vélo, comme je l'ai lu quelques fois?
http://veljm.blogspot.fr/
Bonjour Jean-Marc,
De la Chine au Népal en passant par le Tibet, est encore soumis à de très sévères contraintes et, semble-t-il encore, impossible pour un cycliste seul. Je suivrai attentivement ton périple ...
Renseigne-toi bien .
C'est ce que je pense aussi, mais n'est pas pour tout de suite, ça devrai se faire(des qu'on a le nez dans les cartes!).On était a peu près a la même époque au Pérou et en Bolivie semble t'il, beau pays a retourner aussi!🙂
salut a vous je profıte de cette dıscusıon recente dans le temps pour faıre un apelle a vos experıences. je suıs actuellement a ankara et compte rejoındre la chıne en velo je suıs partıe le 17 maı de france. Ma questıon etaıt de savoır sı dans le cadre de l'obtentıon d'un vısa uzbek le sımple faıt D'avoır une nuıt de reservatıon dans un hotel sur place permets de servır a la partı ınvıtıng party necessaıre a l Obtentıon du vısa uzbek.
bonne route a vous bon voyage et pleın de belles aventures mercı d avance tımo
salut il y a longtemps que le pays c est normalisé plus besoin de rien du tout a part le visa
??
encore en 2015, il arrive que les coupons d'enregistrement soient demandés, et pas seulement à la frontière. Certains hôtels les demandent, ainsi que les quelques boutiques qui veulent bien vendre une carte SIM à un client non ouzbek. Tous les hôtels ou B&B qui ont la licence pour héberger des étrangers nous donnent systématiquement nos petits coupons d'enregistrement, souvent sans même qu'on les demande.
On peut ne pas être contrôlé à la sortie, mais on peut aussi tomber sur un policier très (ou trop ?) zélé à la frontière et se retrouver avec une amende à payer. Par contre l'enregistrement n'est pas nécessaire chaque nuit. Selon les versions, c'est toutes les 3 nuits, ou partout où on séjourne 3 jours ou plus.
Il n'est pas interdit de bivouaquer. Par contre éviter de dire qu'on a, le cas échéant, été hébergé chez l'habitant.
qu'est ce qu'un touriste risque s'il lui manque des nuits ? Beaucoup de nuits ? Votre vecu ?
en 2012 on m'avait demandé mes coupons à la frontière (poste frontière Oybek / Buston TJ). Il me manquait des nuits (1 train de nuit, 1 nuit chez l'habitant, 1 bivouac) et le policier l'a vu. Mais j'en avais assez pour que ça passe.
En 2015, je ne suis pas encore ressortie d'Ouzbekistan mais Kapital Bank m'a demandé un coupon d'enregistrement avant de me permettre de retirer des $ avec ma CB ( il n'y a pas beaucoup de DAB dans l'est du pays). Et j'ai rencontré un couple de cyclos qui s'étaient fait refuser par plusieurs hôtels de Tashkent parce qu'ils n'avaient pas de coupon d'enregistrement depuis au moins 3 jours (ils etaient entrés en Ouzbekistan depuis le Kyrgyzstan et la vallèe de Fergana).
Risque encouru : une amende (un.touriste m'a dit jusqu'à 1500 $ mais je ne connais pas la source de cette info). Et probablement des difficultés si on redemande ultérieurement un.visa ouzbek.
Je confirme que l'Ouzbekistan ne s'est absolument pas "normalisé" sur cette question, je dirai même que les contrôles se sont accrus entre 2009 (1ère année où j'y suis allée) et 2014.
Les hôtels aussi vérifient que l'on dispose bien des enregistrements. On s'est ainsi fait contrôlé notamment à Tashkent. L'hôtelier nous a expliqué qu'ils risquaient leur licence et une amende très élevée si la police venait à constater qu'ils avaient accepté d'héberger des touristes sans enregistrement valable...
Nous avons dormi chez l'habitant car les ouzbeks sont extrêmement hospitaliers. Nous avons voulu acheter des nuits factices : après 3 essais infructueux dans les hôtels on a laissé tomber.
Heureusement les enregistrements sont encore très rudimentaires, nous avons donc modifié les dates...
Nous n'avons pas été contrôlés à la frontière...
En revanche en 2009 j'avais été contrôlée : technique : j'avais sorti un tas de papiers: enregistrement, tickets de musée... le douanier a laissé tomber! Plus facile lorsqu'on a passé plus d'une semaine en Ouzbekistan. Vigilance donc pour ceux qui ne restent pas longtemps.
Après 3 semaines en Ouzbékistan en mai/ juin 2015, je confirme.. La première chose qu'on m'a demandé après mon passeport au poste frontière de sortie (Oybek/Buston TJ), ce sont mes coupons d'enregistrement. J'en.avais un petitt paquet, et 1 des guesthouses m'avait mis une fourchette de dates + étendue que mon séjour chez eux. Je n'ai pas eté embêtée pour les trous (7 ou 8 nuits manquantes ). En outre, mon dernier enregistrement m'a été demandé : par une banque pour pouvoir retirr des $, par la boutique qui a finalement bien voulu me vendre une carte SIM ouzbek, et par un.hotel a Tashkent.
De notre coté nous sommes en camping-car donc même pb qu'en vélo pour les enregistrements.
Nous avons pris l'option "enregistrement 1jour/3" (environ) sans prndre de chambre.
Pas de contrôles des coupons à la frontière (vers Osh)
Pas de controle des coupons lors des nombreux contrôles de police sur la route
Les seuls qui nous ont demndé nos enregistrements sont les hôtels eux-memes. 2 hotels à tashkent ont refusé de nous enregitrer car nous n'avions pas de coupons pour les 3 nuits precedentes.
Ps. Bonne route au Pamir Monique ! Nous sommes àBishkek en train de faire notre visa russe.
Et nous avons bivouaqué avec "Tiger3" qui se balade avec un colis pour toi je crois ;-)
Le monde des VFistes est petit !
Bise de la famille "un tour a cinq"
salut ! J'ai aussi experimenté l'enregistrement tadjik, bien moins contraignant que son homologue ouzbek, et obligatoire seulement quand on a un visa autre que "tourisme", pour les séjours de + de 30 jours. On doit s'enregistrer dans les 3 jours ouvrables suivant l'entrée au Tadjikistan mais il suffit de le faire une fois â l'OVIR (coût 140 TJS, environ 20€). Si on peut le faire ailleurs qu'à Dushanbe, c'est + simple et + rapide.
Je vous souhaite bonne route vers la Mongolie.
Bonjour
quelles sont les moyen les plus simple pour revenir du Cap Nord sans pédaler
train, Bateau, avion ?
qui à déjà fait l’expérience ?
Merci de nous renseigner
17 days, 1,400 km, and 17,500 m of elevation gain cycling in northern Vietnam! 🇻🇳 🚴🇻🇳
From the misty Fansipan to the breathtaking landscapes of the Ha Giang Loop, from remote villages to vibrant markets...
I cycled through the north of the country, getting up close with its people—through mud, heat, endless mountain passes, and unforgettable encounters.
Most importantly, I discovered a Vietnam far different from the usual tourist circuits.
Join me on this adventure through a video that captures these 17 days of travel. :)
If Vietnam calls to you, come ride a stretch with me!
Bonjour,
Je dois arriver en vélo à Thessalonique à la fin Septembre et je prévois de rejoindre Istambul par la côte.
Quelqu'un pourrait m'aider à choisir la meilleure route.Sécurité, difficulté.
Merci d'avance.
Marc
Hi,
can anyone give us some tips on how to get to North Cape from Lyon Gerland?
What’s the best route to join the EuroVelo 7?
How many kilometers is it from Lyon to North Cape via EuroVelo 7?
The best month to leave—we’re thinking early May.
Thanks for any advice!
Looking for a female travel companion for a cycling trip (arriving by plane in Porto Alegre, Brazil, and cycling toward Montevideo, Uruguay, returning by plane to France from Buenos Aires, Argentina) – 1,500 km
Hello everyone!
I’m planning a cycling trip across Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina, with a departure set for late October, November, or December. I’m looking for a travel companion to share this long-distance adventure with.
Experience:
I already have solid experience in bicycle touring in Georgia, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan. Currently, I maintain excellent physical condition by cycling an average of 250 km over 3 days per week (4 hours a day at 20 km/h).
The trip & the pace:
Daily pace: Between 50 and 80 km per day, to make steady progress while taking time to explore.
Accommodation: Flexible and authentic. We’ll alternate between wild camping, campsites, Warmshowers, small guesthouses, and budget hotels depending on opportunities and the weather.
Looking forward to reading your message and planning this amazing journey together!
I’m planning to leave Nice for Toulouse around 10/15 and I’m looking for tips / great deals regarding:
- The route: I was thinking of taking Nice - Grasse - Draguignan - Salernes - Cadarache - Cavaillon - Arles, then the Camargue, Sète, and the Canal du Midi to Toulouse. The idea is to avoid high-traffic roads and too many steep climbs. Are there any spots to avoid or must-see stops? Since it’s been a while since I’ve been on the road, I was thinking that sleeping indoors might be preferable. If you have any budget-friendly accommodation suggestions along part of the route, don’t hesitate!
Thanks in advance, and if you’re in the area around that time, we could ride together... Ciao.
Another long-time dream of Claudio’s: the Petit Mont Cenis pass and the dam at the eponymous lake.
A place where many Italians, including my father, worked in the 1950s–60s.
Faverges → St-Michel-de-Maurienne → Lanslebourg → Petit Mont Cenis → return. 315 km, 3 days. Bivouac at St-Michel-de-M.
Brouter link
Leg One: Faverges → St-Michel-de-Maurienne
Leg Two: St-Michel → Lanslebourg → Mont Cenis Lake → St-Michel
Leg Three: St-Michel → Faverges
And it finally happened in August 2026: in the Maurienne Valley about the famous cycle route known as the V67
🇷🇼 Cycling in Rwanda: 4 episodes, an off-the-beaten-path adventure
After 3 weeks and nearly 1,200 km by bike across Rwanda, I made 4 videos to share this adventure in a different way: the landscapes, the encounters, the villages… but above all, all those incredible scenes of everyday life.
The 4 episodes are available here:
👉 https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGnfbxjccWAg
The 4th episode focuses on rural Rwandan life: simple, authentic, and sometimes surprising scenes that you only truly discover when you take the time to travel by bike.
If you have a few minutes, let yourself be transported to Rwanda…
Hi, I'm looking for info on cycling to Nordkapp via the EuroVelo 7. Has anyone done it already, and where’s the best place to start the EuroVelo 7?
Thanks
Hi,
We bought the MSR bike tent model (2-person + large awning that can fit 2 bikes) back in 2005. It’s served us really well, especially during a year-long trip in Africa. Now, one of the poles is broken, and we’d love to replace it since that’s the only issue with the tent—we still love it! The poles are 9.35 mm in diameter, with 8 sections of 49 cm and 2 sections of 28 cm. Total length when assembled: 416 cm. Actually, two large sections are broken: one straight and one curved. It’s a pain to find replacements since this model is no longer sold anywhere.
Would anyone have this model lying around unused and be willing to sell me a pole?
Hi everyone,
In early April, I’m redoing the Vélo Francette (La Rochelle to Ouistreham), and then I’d like to cycle along the Cotentin Peninsula (which I don’t know at all), follow the coast up to Cherbourg, and then head back down to at least Saint-Malo. I’d love to know if it’s pleasant for cycling—are the roads nice? Not too windy? What are the must-see spots? Any great campsites? All your tips and advice are more than welcome, and I thank you in advance.
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike to meet some friends in Côte d’Ivoire in early November.
I’ll be starting in Abidjan and heading to Abengourou, which is close to the Ghana border.
I’d like to take the trails. Does anyone have recent info on eastern Côte d’Ivoire?
Any tips, safety advice, or must-see stops? I’m open to all suggestions.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Fx
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
I just took a trip in Tunisia from Tozeur to Douz, skirting Chott el Jerid to the south. I’m back with the urge to keep going further south via the 4x4 tracks to connect Douz to Ksar Ghilane. Has anyone driven this route recently or explored southern Tunisia?
Thanks for your tips!
fix
😎Fellow traveling cyclists or not, all of you who love travel, the pleasure of physical effort, nature, beautiful machines, people with true passions they seek to fulfill, and who also enjoy reading great literature about all this—the *200* magazine is for you just as it is for me. I should mention I have no financial or other interest in this (in an era where we accuse our politicians of all sorts of vile interests, I prefer to take precautions). I’ve been subscribed since the beginning, and every three months, I get my 130 pages of dreams (the magazine just went from 110 to 130 pages).
It covers everything from the trans-America route to the TCR (Trans Continental Race) from Belgium to a small town in Turkey, with mind-blowing averages—4,000 km and 80,000 m of elevation gain in 8 days and 15 hours for the winner. Let that sink in, and all of it without assistance—accepting a patch could penalize you. There’s also a story about crossing Iran, encountering one of the world’s most welcoming populations, following in the footsteps of Nicolas Bouvier, as well as retirees leisurely traversing France. The common thread in all these stories? Beautiful writing. Take, for example, a stunning article: *"Passengers of the Cold: From Edinburgh to Thurso, at the very north of Scotland, 550 km of moors, coasts, and icy wind. In Thurso, the road ends at a quay, facing the Orkney Islands. We wanted a November trip, off-season. We wanted to surprise winter. Just before the snow."* A sublime piece on the experience of facing adversity and the chance encounters along the road and in the elements.
Before I embarked on my own bike trips, I dreamed a lot about them—from the Atacama to the Gobi, along the Mekong, and not forgetting France. And now, these 130 pages every quarter keep those dreamy vibes alive through stories written in the most beautiful prose.
I’ll stop here because it might sound like I’m advertising, but if you don’t know *200*, I invite you to discover it. It’ll give you wings for the most incredible challenges or simply reinforce your desire for slow rides with your eyes open to others and nature.
A little news to wrap up: Axel Carion and a friend just broke the record for crossing South America from Colombia to Ushuaia in 59 days. On its own, that doesn’t mean much, but I can’t help it—it makes me dream. You should see how he talks about it, the flashes of that wild nature he’s stored away: a snowstorm at Paso Jama and the surreal sight of the suddenly snow-covered Licancabur!
Luc
PS: The magazine is called *200* because a day’s ride starts at 200 km—well, I’ve never done a ride like that since my longest was 167 km (with 18 kg of luggage, mind you), but why not one day? The magazine will explain how to tackle your first 200, and then the question in conclusion: when will you do your first 300?😏
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hello,
We’d like to go on a 3- to 4-month bike trip starting in December, crossing from Assam (northeast India) to New Delhi via Nepal.
Are there routes with light traffic along the Brahmaputra and through Nepal?
We’re also looking for any info on accommodations, wild camping, local interactions, etc.
Thanks,
Michel
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?