This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
The hotel serves breakfast from 8 AM to 10 AM—pretty late, but not an issue for those who needed to catch up on sleep. A glance at the sky fills us with joy: we wanted good weather for today, and we got it.
We head straight for the river, passing a park along the way with a small pond, flowers, lawns, a few old houses, and an area with equipment for locals to exercise in the morning. As we’re strolling, shouts ring out. Half a dozen women of a certain age were having a picnic when one of them scared off a large monitor lizard that had been lured by the smell and was looking to crash the party. It’s surreal to find yourself three meters away from a creature straight out of *Jurassic Park*.
We’d decided to rediscover the *khlongs* and had contacted Julien back in January. His email responses weren’t exactly warm, but it seemed like serious business. We’d agreed on the date and price in February, with a confirmation in May. Out of courtesy, we sent a final email two days before our departure as a last confirmation—only to be surprised when the price of 1,800 baht for six people suddenly became 1,600 baht for two. We made the mistake of replying that it was okay, though personally, we wouldn’t have dreamed of doubling the price just before the meet-up after agreeing on it months earlier. Without our last confirmation, we would’ve been faced with a *fait accompli* the day of, since he hadn’t even bothered to warn us. After that, he sent one last email... inviting us *not* to come. So, here’s a young, presumptuous, and touchy guy who’s nice to those who bend to his will but downright unpleasant otherwise. Some forum members had already had the bad surprise of him not showing up on the day of the meet-up. All this leaves us with a pretty nasty impression of the guy and his unreliable, ever-changing standards.
So, we decided—if you can call it that—to give more to the Thais than we would’ve paid him.
Our path led us to Pier 8, a little north of Wat Arun. We’d already described this in detail in a previous discussion on the topic. It turned out to be easy to find someone. Before the walkway where the shuttle docks, there are small businesses selling all kinds of river and *khlong* trips. The vendor had signs, large photos, and colorful maps to help us choose.
We opted for a two-hour trip exclusively through the *khlongs*, priced at 2,800 baht but negotiated down to 2,000 baht—just the two of us in the longtail boat. You could probably get it cheaper by going directly to a boat owner, but our schedule was packed, and we wanted something quick and hassle-free. We’d insisted on a tour with no stops, and aside from a quick pause to feed the fish, the deal was respected. We’d see enough flowers and markets over the month.
Clearly, visiting Bangkok without a *khlong* tour would be a real shame. A temple here, banana trees there, the people we pass, the glimpses of daily life, the monk crossing a small bridge above us... smoking a cigarette! The highlight was the monitor lizard swimming in front of us, climbing onto the bank with a big white rat in its jaws.
Our discreet and friendly guide ended up going well over the two hours, and we’ll admit our backsides were grateful by the end.
On the way out, we crossed a market full of collectibles and amulets stretching for hundreds of meters along the sidewalks. Private sellers buying and trading coins, miniatures, trinkets, religious objects—probably every Sunday.
We then take the ferry to cross the river and visit Wat Arun. The sight of this grand, unique monument standing against the blue sky is one of the most majestic views Bangkok has to offer. It’s a pleasant place to explore. Worth mentioning is the inner courtyard of the temple, where you can admire a number of very expressive stone figures.
After a rich meal the night before, small pineapples on wooden skewers will do just fine. Oh, pineapples in Asia—what a treat!
We head back to Khao San Road to buy our boat tickets to Koh Phangan–Ko Tao in advance, this time with Songserm. We’ll test all three companies so we can give a solid opinion.
It’s hot, we’re thirsty, so we make a quick stop at the entrance of the neighborhood at a friendly young guy’s fruit shake stand. You know the type—listening to real rock music, and when an Englishwoman asks for "two bananas, please," he hands her two actual bananas.
We wisely order kiwi and kiwi-pineapple shakes. One word: *slurp*!
Off we go in a taxi to check out Lumphini Park. It’s pretty big, kind of like Central Park with skyscrapers all around. The most interesting part is seeing locals exercising or dancing, sometimes in huge groups, with that unmistakably Asian style that always makes us smile. A young monitor lizard slithers out of a drain just a few steps away—our third of the day.
The walk did its job, so we have the taxi drop us off near Mango Tree House restaurant. We barely snag a table without a reservation. This place is a different league—slightly upscale, and we feel a bit out of place. It’s modern, well-decorated, with a wealthier clientele and prices a notch higher. The food quality is undeniable, though—it’s definitely a spot that doesn’t disappoint. There’s a slight sense of it being less authentic, but that’s just our impression.
On the way back, the taxi driver can’t find our hotel. Luckily, we’ve gotten into the habit of carrying the hotel’s business cards—it regularly saves us from one or two evening mishaps during a trip.
At the start of the night, my partner steps out to smoke a cigarette on the large balcony surrounding the floor, leaving the bedroom door slightly ajar to avoid making noise. You wouldn’t believe it, but during those five minutes, an Asian tourist—clearly tipsy—comes barreling around the corner, tries to open the already-open door with his key, and says, "Sir, sir, this is room 206. Your key is for 306—you’re on the floor above. No, no, it’s fine, good night, sir." Another second and we would’ve had a third wheel in our room...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
The next few days are dedicated to a getaway in Cambodia. The taxi takes us to the airport relatively quickly. Just a quick note on taxis: they’re a real blessing for tourists in Bangkok. While the three-wheeled tuk-tuks are colorful, folkloric, and fun, we gave them a miss this time because of the tedious haggling and their lack of safety. We also remembered getting exhaust fumes right in our faces every time.
Taxis, on the other hand, mean comfort, cool air conditioning, safety, a bit more interaction with the driver, and—most importantly—prices that fit every budget. Even after getting used to them, we’re still amazed every time.
Now that we’re seasoned pros, here’s how to do it: when the taxi stops, don’t get in right away. Let the driver roll down the window, say *sawadee krap*, and tell them your destination. They might say no and drive off—okay, they have their reasons. Or they might quote a price (which will almost always be nearly double the real fare). Either way, you say: "Meter, ok?" If they say no, say goodbye. If they say yes, get in and make sure they turn on the meter. Most of the time, it works on the first or second try, but sometimes it takes until the fifth or sixth. Every time we’ve done it differently, we’ve regretted it. Of course, if you’re coming from some remote spot, you might not always have a choice. One last thing: if the driver looks like an idiot, just walk away—because it usually turns out they really are one. The same goes for drivers who struggle to understand you from the start; chances are they won’t find your destination and will drive you around forever. The worst are the ones who swear they know where they’re going when they don’t—just to be polite or save face.
Sometimes, it saves you to have the hotel’s card with the name in Thai or at least the phone number of the restaurant you’re heading to.
A propeller-driven ATR plane took us from Bangkok to Siem Reap. The first time, it’s not exactly reassuring, but the hour-long flight goes by quickly.
Visa formalities are quick—just a photo and a few dollars we’d exchanged in Bangkok—and it only takes a few minutes. Our guesthouse’s tuk-tuk (the motorbike kind) was waiting for us in the parking lot, and the ride was free. We dropped off our things, and that afternoon, we got a ride to the place where we bought our three-day pass.
As we’d been told, it gave us the right to start visiting that same day. Along the way, we saw our first monkeys wandering at the edge of the forest.
We took our time exploring, almost alone in and around the Bayon, with great lighting on this temple of many faces—literally.
The contrast between these temples barely cleared from the jungle and bustling Bangkok is striking.
That evening, we wandered into a restaurant packed with Cambodian families and tried Asian barbecue for the first time. For four dollars, you can help yourself to all the meat, fish, seafood, vegetables, and fruit you want, cooking it to your liking. We enjoyed plenty of things—though not all of them were identifiable.
The storm had the good sense to break after dark. This trip is really well-timed...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
It's such a joy to read your posts. The style is smooth, easy to read, and free of spelling mistakes... a real treat! And the photos are gorgeous. I can't wait for the next posts to pick up some great tips for our 6th trip to Thailand next February.
Enjoy Angkor to the fullest (we spent almost a week there two years ago). Make sure to visit the River of a Thousand Lingas—this time of year, it must be perfect (though the climb is still a workout!). Back in April, the river was nearly dry. Don’t miss Tonlé Sap and its impressive stilt villages (likely flooded at the moment).
Soak it all in, and keep taking us along for the ride! !
Thanks for the encouragement, but it’s quicker to read than to write...
Given the positive feedback on this forum, we chose the Lovely Guesthouse for four nights at $14 with air conditioning.
We were delighted. The place is peaceful (well, in Asia, there are dogs and roosters almost everywhere in the neighborhood...) and we won’t forget the constant smiles and the staff’s availability.
The rooms are very clean, the bedding comfortable. Nancy and Marion run the place in a way that’s both professional and super laid-back. We explained what we were looking for in terms of visits, and we can confidently say you can trust them to organize everything with your eyes closed. You get a tuk-tuk and its driver at a reasonable price, tours designed to minimize crowds, and—when available—interesting discussions and exchanges. We usually like to switch things up, but if we return to Cambodia, this is where we’ll go back.
Even with a three-day pass (40 $), the program is incredibly packed. On average, 6 to 10 sites per day. It wouldn’t be reasonable—or maybe even fun—to detail them all. We liked some of the most famous ones less, while we adored others that aren’t as well-known. Our eyes and minds never felt overwhelmed, but our feet and legs sure did... We felt both admiration and pity for those doing it by bike.
So many beautiful things that choosing photos to illustrate this day was heartbreaking.
This first full day took place under a blazing sun.
We started with the orange-hued temple of Banteay Srei, located 25 km from the main sites. Lots of beautiful bas-reliefs in good condition.
One of the highlights of our trip was the journey to this site. For half the route, on both sides of the road, there was an uninterrupted succession of homes, a little rural and forested world, a small slice of the past. It was so captivating that we could’ve stopped every 50 meters for several kilometers to look and take photos. The authenticity we love so much when traveling. Along the way, at that early hour, a very pleasant smell complemented the scene perfectly: a mix of forest scents, exotic wood burning for household use, and incense.
We didn’t note all the names, but that day we saw Banteay Samre, Prasat Prei, Prasat Leak Neang, Pre Rup, and a good part of the Angkor Thom complex. At this time of year, the smaller number of tourists makes it even more enjoyable.
Given how rich the day was and the heat, need I say we weren’t exactly full of energy by evening...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
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Thanks for the updates from your first day of visits in Angkor. Don’t forget to take a rest day now and then—the steps of the Khmer temples are brutal!
If you head to the night market in the evening, there’s a bar at the very back (kind of a thatched hut) that makes delicious cocktails. At the end of the day or rather early evening, it’s just what you need!
Enjoy your time! Do tell us all about (and share more great photos of) the River of a Thousand Lingas—I hope! With plenty of water in the river, it must be even more stunning. Don’t forget to bring water for the climb, and I’m sure, just like us, when you come back down, you’ll rush for a nice cold beer at a little eatery near the parking lot!
I love the photo with the man lying on the temple steps. So beautiful!
I can't wait to read the rest! We're planning our trip for July (we're starting early, but we live on Réunion Island—flight tickets are crazy expensive...). I really enjoyed reading your posts. (Good spelling *is* a plus, after all!) Keep it up! :)
Like the day before, we woke up at 5 a.m. to set off in the cool morning air and admire the first sites before the buses arrived. It was clear from the start that our tuk-tuk driver was just as taciturn as the day before, and in the end, he’d be just about the only unfriendly Cambodian we’d meet. We asked for a different driver for the next day. His habit of regularly admiring himself in every mirror or reflective surface he passed and taking the opportunity to fix his hair was pretty noticeable. Well, when you’re that stiff with people, tourism probably isn’t the right job for you...
We quickly forgot about him as we entered Angkor Wat through the back entrance, buzzing with excitement. The damage caused by the climate—especially over the last century since the vegetation protecting the temples was cleared—is heartbreaking. Still, it was a childhood dream come true to wander through this complex. As we left through the main entrance, we ran into more and more people and realized it must be a lot less pleasant during peak season.
The rest of the morning was dedicated to the trio of Ta Prom Kei, Phnom Bakeng, and Baksei Chamkrong.
Luckily, the weather was mostly overcast during the day. A few degrees cooler—perfect. There was enough light, but it was pretty humid.
For lunch, unless you want to make a 30-kilometer round trip, you’ve got to eat on-site. While the food is great pretty much everywhere else, the same can’t be said for major tourist sites. The quality was lower, but the prices were doubled. There’s no doubt some local fortunes were built on the cheap thanks to this opportunity. We set aside our foodie expectations for these few days.
Of course, the little monkeys from the forest roam the area and put on some free shows. Their "cops and robbers" skits with the vendors were hilarious.
We started the afternoon with a visit to the Baphuon, which we nicknamed "the battleship." This massive stone structure, while not exactly beautiful, is incredibly impressive. The patient dismantling and reassembly work done by the teams of architects and local workers is a huge success.
We ended the day with a bunch of other discoveries, from the magnificent gates of Angkor Thom to Prasat Prei, the mini lake Neak Pean to Preah Khan, and passing by Thommanon and Banteay Prei, among others.
At the various sites, we were inevitably approached by vendors, most of them very young children. We bought a few trinkets, and some of the little girls had a heartbreaking way of begging in French: "Madaaaaame, s’il vous plaît, madaaaame? Tout à l’heure?" At times, all the hustle and bustle made taking photos even trickier—already a challenge with other tourists and the ever-changing light. Still, it’s clear these people live here, and at no point were they pushy or unpleasant. Their faces lighting up when we smiled back was a joy to see. It’s frustrating to realize how little so many people have compared to us.
After these two days, we weren’t as energetic. But the packed itinerary had still blown us away and left us with a deep sense of satisfaction.
In the evening, we switched to a more traditional but very locally flavored restaurant. We were excited about the next day’s plans: starting with the ruined, jungle-covered temple of Beng Mealea, which is several dozen kilometers away. We chose this option because we’d heard the landscapes along the way were stunning. In the afternoon, Ta Prohm and the Roluos group were on the agenda.
Dinner was great, but we think we made a big mistake this time. Probably the coconut milkshakes. We’d find out in the night...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
A thousand thanks for this simply magnificent account. Reading you is such a pleasure and brings back so many memories. I’m a huge fan of the Angkor temples, which I’ve visited many times, but your story and the way you describe your visits, your emotions as you wander through all these temples, makes me want to go back and immerse myself in that unique atmosphere again.
With that in mind, I’m heading to Paris in two weeks to visit the Musée Guimet and its new exhibition dedicated to Angkor: *The Birth of a Myth*.
About your misadventure with Mr. Chartree Chidchen, the taxi driver from the airport, regarding that famous ticket—there’s a phone number you can call if you have any issues with a driver.
Thanks again.
Oh! Your photos are stunning—what camera do you use for shots that are so incredibly sharp?
A thousand thanks! Actually, there are two of us—Paris and Match, "the weight of words, the shock of photos!"
It's a Canon 7D, and all the photos are taken manually without flash.
If anyone wants details about this camera body, we’d be happy to answer.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Thanks again for this beautiful travel journal—it feels like I’m right there with you! It brings back some amazing memories too... How lucky you are to both love photography. I love it too (and I’m far from a pro), but it annoys my husband...😕 oh well, I’m the only one who does it (and I’ll keep doing it, so there!). I used to have a Canon 400D, but after a spectacular fall in Koh Pha Ngan last February, I just got a Canon 650D—still in Canon’s mid-range line.
Since you’re visiting the Roluos group, are you planning to make a "detour" to Tonlé Sap? If you check out the huge stilt village of Kampong Khleang, I’d love to see photos of it *with* water. When we went, it was April and the lake was dry, revealing its towering stilts and forcing villagers to create a kind of temporary sand path just to get around (in a tuk-tuk, it was a bit of an obstacle course!).
Keep up the great work—and keep sharing your stories with us!
We caught something a bit dodgy. Not very Buddhist, either. One of us started feeling sick in the middle of the night, while the other is less affected and will only suffer minor inconveniences. We’re lucky because there was no fever—just this day and the next will be pretty rough.
It’s true that Cambodia isn’t great in terms of sanitation. We learned at the guesthouse that it’s not uncommon for tourists to get sick. From now on, we’ll know to be more careful here than in Thailand.
As a result, this day is cut short. We have to give up the trip to Beng Mealea and won’t see Ta Prohm either. We’ve seen so much already that the disappointment is relative—maybe this will be our excuse to come back one day.
The morning is a bit grim, but luckily the worst effects fade fairly quickly.
After much hesitation, we can’t resist trying to visit the Roluos group in the afternoon. Our new driver is the complete opposite of the last one—personifying friendliness and smiles. He’ll more than earn his generous tip by the end of the day.
Most of the structures scattered a short distance from the main sites—about 15 km away—are made of brick and in poor condition. Only a few beautiful bas-reliefs and carved figures remain, especially on the pediments.
The main monument is Bakong, the first temple-mountain of Angkor. It’s better preserved and quite tall. We really like this style. It will be our last glimpse of Angkor.
Madame is fading in the tuk-tuk and has to hand over her camera to monsieur. Back at the hotel, she’ll see that her assistant photographer didn’t do too badly, despite heavy legs, intermittent light rain, and a huge group of Asian tourists in colorful outfits that clash with the scenery.
Back home, we’ll also realize how great it was to take so many photos of the sculptures and bas-reliefs over these four days. Many details stand out that you can’t fully appreciate in the moment—otherwise, you’d spend weeks there. We’re amazed, surprised, and even laugh at some of it.
But for now, we’re not laughing much. We planned the trip so there’d be just one—but a long—transit day. That day is tomorrow. The flights are booked, no choice—when it’s time to go, it’s time to go! We just hope to avoid the worst.
18/07/2013
So it was a real transit day—intestinal transit included. There are some pretty funny details we could share, but we’ll spare you. Let’s just say that miraculously, everything went okay. Barely, but okay.
After leaving all our Cambodian money with the adorable tuk-tuk driver, we take the propeller plane back to Bangkok. After an interesting visit to the pharmacy at Suvarnabhumi, we take a taxi to the other airport.
A few hours later, we board a cheap Air Asia flight, and an hour after that, we’re at Krabi Airport.
Due to the seasonal weather, we’d already decided to postpone visiting wonders like Phang Nga, Koh Phi Phi, or Koh Lanta. So we’ll start our slow journey back toward Bangkok from Krabi.
That evening, we noticed the positive side of Thailand’s tourist organization: at the airport, someone sees us looking around and immediately directs us to the shuttle. As soon as we get off, another person puts us in a minibus, and in no time, we’re at the hotel. Good thing, too—we were pretty out of it.
We’d picked the Krabi Cozy Place Hotel, right in the city but in a quiet corner. We weren’t in any state to fully enjoy it, but for 27 €, we had really nice rooms overlooking the pool and a great breakfast. Of course, many of the prices we mention are only valid in the low season. The layout and vegetation are tastefully done. The staff were very friendly and smiling. We asked if they knew a taxi driver who could take us on a long sightseeing trip the next day, and twenty minutes later, our guy was there to plan the route and discuss the price.
We had to skip the great restaurant we’d planned to try. It was already dark when we slowly made our way through the nearly deserted city like an old couple. We bravely—and nervously—snacked on a little rice from a street vendor before enjoying some much-needed rest.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
It's funny, I also caught something similar in Siem Reap (the only time during 7 weeks of traveling in northern Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia)... But I have to say, we had eaten *very* local one evening. And it was the next day that we visited Tonlé Sap and Roluos. Our tuk-tuk had to make an "emergency" stop in front of a house to ask the locals for permission so I could rush to the bathroom. Obviously, since we were on the way out for our day of sightseeing, we had to improvise (thanks, Imodium!), and the day went more or less okay, but I barely enjoyed Roluos for the same reasons...
By the end of the day, once we were back at the hotel, I took the miracle medicine (following the travel clinic doctor’s instructions before we left) for "traveler’s diarrhea," and the next day, everything was back to normal. I’ll always keep some on me from now on—not in my toiletries bag at the hotel.
Too bad you couldn’t visit Ta Prohm—it’s stunning—but as you said, it’ll be an excuse to go back someday!
Come on, we’re waiting for the rest of your Krabi story!
Thanks so much! !
Amazing travel journal. Thanks for sharing! :)
We also fulfilled our dream of visiting the Angkor temples last summer. Absolutely stunning. We rediscovered Bangkok and Thailand too. We spent 2 months in Southeast Asia (Thailand, Cambodia, Kuala Lumpur, and Indonesia: Flores/Lombok/Bali). Asia is home to so many wonders and paradise-like spots. We’re compiling our travel journals and tips for fellow travelers on our blog (with videos). If you’re planning your trip or just dreaming of getting away, here are our travel stories from Asia, our take on the Angkor temples, and our Bangkok City Guide.
Happy travels to all! !
Récits de voyage et conseils aux voyageurs sur le blog http://www.onedayonetravel.com #Thaïlande #Indonésie #Brésil #Cambodge #Europe #Inde #Suède #Argentine
This is the perfect time to thank a forum member who, if I remember correctly, pointed out that the road between Phang Nga and Suratthani was the most beautiful in Thailand. That’s why we’re stopping by Krabi before heading to the islands. It’s always such a great moment during vacation when you treat yourself to a little extra to explore several pretty spots. There’s a cost to it, but we’d rather skip something else during the year—nothing would ever compare to the value of a memorable day.
The day before, we haggled hard but couldn’t get the price we’d hoped for, which had been mentioned by VoyageForum members. The taxi and his vehicle cost us 4,500 baht for a 230 km trip, knowing full well that our driver would have to make the return journey, even if it was a shorter route than the loop we took on the way there. On top of that, we didn’t have time to shop around—we were just relieved to have found someone so quickly.
We ended up with a very kind and friendly man; it was a pleasure. It’s something we’ve noticed over time—many Thais really know how to interact with tourists. Some even go above and beyond what we expect.
We make a quick stop in town to see what it’s like. Aren’t those two little cuties adorable, spontaneously posing for us?
We head north first, and our first stop is the Tiger Cave. We were expecting something a bit insignificant—a short nature break for tourists wanting to escape the monotony of the beach. Not at all. We’re glad we gave our driver free rein, insisting we wanted to see beautiful places. It’s a large complex, partly under construction. Temples, quite a few statues, monkeys roaming freely, all set against the mountain. We also enjoyed the cave with the replica of the Emerald Buddha at the back. Steps lead into the cliff, with paths to a forest walk or a viewpoint, but we’re still recovering, and we don’t want to blow our schedule right at the start.
A few kilometers further on, we reach a large and beautiful temple high up in the tropical forest. The interior is adorned with high-quality illustrations, and in the center of the room, a golden relic is displayed, though it’s hard to see because of the heavy security. Outside, there’s a great view of the plain and the hill opposite, where a giant Buddha emerges.
Our driver makes another stop near a river. A lovely spot where a few people are kayaking along the mangroves. For once, we don’t know exactly where we are, but it doesn’t matter—the joy is there.
What’s especially nice about having a driver at your disposal is that you can stop whenever you want. We do, without overdoing it. Here, a family’s little stand selling lychees by a pond overlooked by a karst cliff; there, processions of villagers, then a tiny, very rural restaurant.
In the afternoon, we take a short break by Lake Ratchaprapa, at one end of Khao Sok National Park. It’s very pretty, but the morning sun has given way to a threatening sky.
It’s time to head east—we’re running late. We still stop to photograph a traditional house. Of course, the elderly owner comes to ask why we’re there and invites us inside. What follows is a lovely moment of exchange; this time, we have an interpreter.
Throughout the journey, the tropical landscape scrolling by is rich and pleasant to behold. Without a doubt, we’d love to come back one day to spend more time in this province and explore it in detail.
At our request, the driver calls Songserm from his car to book our boat ticket for the next day. We’re surprised he makes us pay right away. He just gives us a ticket with his letterhead. Having spent time with him since the day before, we could tell he was trustworthy, and that turned out to be true. The price we paid was the standard rate.
His only lie, if it even was one, was claiming that Songserm was the best company.
We check into the Wangtai Hotel. Suratthani isn’t an interesting city—we didn’t put much effort into finding a unique hotel, especially since the choice is limited and we’re just passing through.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Like many supposedly upscale hotels in Asia, the luxury and glitz are mostly confined to the lobby and reception area. Everything else often swings between outdated and dilapidated. That was the case at the Wangtai. The plumbing was on its last legs, the soundproofing was a bit lacking, and the sliding window was warped and wouldn’t close completely. Still, at 22 € a night, the air conditioning was good, the bedding was comfortable, and there was a pool we didn’t have time to check out...
The next morning, we got a surprise when we went to settle the bill: the total was much higher than expected. We’d used room service the night before, and the prices for the dishes and drinks definitely didn’t match what we were charged. We quickly went back up to the room and came back down with the menu. It turned out the in-room price list had never been updated, and none of the many employees working there over the past decade had thought to address the issue.
At first, they refused to adjust the current prices. We insisted that honoring the prices listed in the room at the time of ordering was also a matter of respecting the customer. They eventually agreed to a small discount, but we were feeling particularly persistent that day. What followed was a series of negotiations, minor frustrations, and us pulling out all the stops: what would happen if we called the police? If we shared our story online or on Agoda? From the outside, the scene must have been comical—two of us fired up, facing eight staff members taking turns behind the reception desk with defeated expressions.
Then, of course, the dignified and august manager arrived, and we started all over again. By the end of the exchange—a mix of exasperation and smiles—they finally gave in. The final act was a memorable round of mutual apologies and polite farewells.
Our taxi had politely waited and took us to the bus, as the Songserm ferry terminal was several dozen kilometers away. Another chance to admire the beauty of the landscape in this region.
The ferry we’d imagined as larger was almost an hour late. With Songserm, there were far more standing spots than seats, and an extra charge of 30 baht for seats to Samui and 40 baht for those heading to Koh Phangan, in a room pompously called the VIP Room. There was also an English movie with Thai subtitles blaring at a volume that was way too loud, though the sound cut out completely most of the time. And finally, total chaos when unloading luggage at the Koh Samui stop. The ferry seemed very slow to us. We wouldn’t repeat the experience with Songserm.
So far, the weather has been what we’re used to at this time of year: summer isn’t quite over, and the monsoon hasn’t really started yet.
The sun welcomed us to Koh Phangan. Eager to get to the hotel, we didn’t haggle over the pickup taxi price of 200 baht per person—we later saw the hotel offered it for 150 baht.
We arrived on the northwest coast at Haad Yao Highlife Bungalow Hotel, 77 € for two nights without breakfast but with a beautiful infinity pool. The photos on the website looked promising. It’s a small place with its own charm, and we’d opted for one of the more budget-friendly bungalows. As for downsides, the bedding was a bit worn, and the location up high meant we had to go down—and back up—several dozen steps to reach the beach. What’s more, at high tide, you had to wade through about ten meters of waist-deep water to get there.
On the plus side, the list was long: real peace and quiet, a stunning view of the beach below, a clean and reasonably sized pool near the restaurant, beautiful tropical plants scattered everywhere, excellent food with one of the best pad thai we’d had just when our appetites returned, great music—quality rock or house—and, most of all, incredibly friendly and attentive staff. Not to mention the hammock on the balcony terrace and the three comfy hammocks in a little chill-out spot near the pool, with a sea view. Of course, we look back on it all with nostalgia. In one of the photos, the photographer recovering...
The late-night dips in the pool were nice, but why on earth hadn’t they heated the pool when earlier in the afternoon we’d noticed they’d heated the sea?
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Can't wait for the next part! Personally, we really loved Koh Pha Ngan, so I'm looking forward to reading your thoughts on this island.
And, like Joël, I'd love a bit more to read !😉 Just kidding, of course! There's not much to say about one night in Surat Thani...
Your compliments mean a lot to us—it’s a great reward.
Of course, it’s a bit frustrating to wait for the next episode. We’re doing our best to publish at least one post every 48 hours when possible. We need to carefully review our notes to include details that could be useful for other travelers, which takes more time, but that’s the whole point...
Some stops turned out to be less interesting than expected, while others were much more so.
One thing’s for sure: some days will get a deeper dive, and you’ll soon see new photos that we’re sure you’ll enjoy. Hang in there...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
What a joy to read your post!
It’s so smooth, full of humor and details—great job!
And not a single spelling mistake!! A real feat.
Thanks to PARIS ET MATCH!!
Looking forward to reading the rest soon...
It’s not mean-spirited, but I find this remark particularly out of place, especially by emphasizing the "feat," as if not making spelling mistakes were reserved for just some people...😕
So please, don’t make it a controversial topic.
And what does Nicolas Bouvier have to do with any of this????
Hello,
Oh, why?
Nicolas Bouvier?
The Bouvier’s dog?
Could you explain, please? Thanks.
And... no mistakes, lol.
Bouvier - Wikipedia
fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouvier
Thanks
Nicolas BOUVIER, of course!
But here again, people will think I'm CONDESCENDING!!!! But I don't care!!
I express myself like so many other forum members—long live FREEDOM of speech, especially on a forum.
Of course it's mean and uncalled for.
This travel account is fascinating, so why not praise the authors of these beautiful pages???
Your comment doesn’t add anything.
That’s exactly what I was afraid of—condescension and nothing more. As for Nicolas Bouvier, I bet he’s laughing his head off and wondering what game you’re playing... 😏
Nicolas BOUVIER of course!
But here again, people will find me CONDESCENDING!!!! But I don't care!!
I express myself like so many other forum members.
LONG LIVE FREEDOM of speech, especially on a forum.
Of course it's mean and uncalled for.
This travel journal is fascinating, so why not praise the authors of these beautiful pages???
Your comment doesn't add anything.
Hmm, condescending isn't just two words, is it?
Lol (and not mean)
But please avoid trashing this post, for once we're reading something really great!
The weather’s a bit iffy in the early morning. We were expecting bright sunshine over the islands, but over these few days, the climate has actually been a little less favorable than on the mainland.
While we’re having breakfast waiting for the shuttle to our excursion, we meet Coco, the house attraction. Coco flits around the restaurant waiting for a snack. Coco knows everyone, but if you hand over a pen, you know you’ll see Coco again—but not the pen. He’s also a non-smoker because he’ll perch at your table and methodically dismantle your pack of cigarettes, along with every single one inside...
We went through Orion Boat Trips for a day trip to the Ang Thong Marine Park, located due west between the islands and the coast. Our attempts to book online on their website didn’t work out. We just kept getting emails saying a response was coming soon—but it never did. Once we asked in person, we were told: "Oh yeah, you can’t book on the website!" No big deal—whether from Samui or Phangan, just ask at your hotel reception, and they’ll sort it out in five minutes.
The day costs 45 € per person, all-inclusive, including snorkeling gear rental. You set off on a well-worn but seaworthy boat. The friendly organizer giving the departure briefing looks like he’s seen even more of life than the boat. He’s got that ex-hippie vibe—maybe Dutch? But he’s a nice guy who knows his stuff and takes good care of the clients in his charge.
You’ve got to admit, the food is pretty decent. There are unlimited drinks, and throughout the day, they always hand out little treats at just the right moment (bananas, pineapple, watermelon, big, delicious fritters).
During the hour-plus journey, the weather’s changeable—occasional raindrops here and there, not ideal. To be honest, full sun wouldn’t be much better. The first stop near a small islet is for the only snorkeling session, which is short and fairly unremarkable.
The first stop on one of Ang Thong’s islands lets you climb up to admire a stunning little emerald-green inland lake, which you can also walk around.
After lunch, we stop at the famous island where you can choose between kayaking or hiking up to the viewpoint. The climb takes between 20 and 40 minutes through the tropical forest. It’s best not to be out of shape, especially when the ground is wet. This time, there are no steps—just big rocks all the way. For most of the hike, the only option is to haul yourself up using the thick ropes marking what you can hardly call a path. If you rush, given the heat and humidity, you’ll reach the top with your head boiling. With a backpack, it’s a workout.
Of course, when you take in the view, you forget all about it. It’s simply breathtaking. The scenery speaks for itself—just savor it.
You savor it on the way down too—it’s slippery, and at times, you’re practically crawling on all fours to stay safe. It’s a relief to finally reach the white sand.
The return trip seems shorter, and it’s nice to admire Koh Phangan as you sail past at the end.
Another good meal at the hotel, and before others arrive, we rush to the hammocks next to the restaurant, which we occupy for several hours. Nothing in the world could make us move—fruit juices, smoothies, gazing at the beach and the horizon where little lights start flickering on everywhere. Just the usual, really...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Uh! I wasn’t talking about Jojoon1’s post, which is actually very well written, but about Marieblue’s comment pointing out that writing without spelling mistakes is some kind of achievement. That’s dismissive toward the author. That’s all!
We didn’t want to linger too long on the islands—it gets monotonous pretty quickly. Let’s just say it was a quick tour to see what they’re like. If we were younger, we definitely would’ve enjoyed spending three weeks exploring Koh Phangan.
Before leaving the hotel, we slipped a bill into the tip box for the staff. They really earned it.
Mid-morning, we headed to Koh Tao with Seatran. The service was much better than Songserm’s, and this time, at least the ferry actually moved.
We had a super sunny afternoon—it’s really a lottery. The taxi was complimentary from the hotel, which was great because on this island, every ride costs you 300 baht!
We went for something a bit original and a touch of luxury by choosing La Cigale hotel (64 euros—ouch!). The owner, André Allen, is a tall, smiling Anglo-Jamaican with a classic London accent. Its elevated location on the northwest side of the island guarantees peace and quiet. The bungalows scattered through nature offer optimal comfort. We’ve never seen a room so well-equipped—there’s even a DVD player with kids' movies and various magazines. As for the bathroom, though it’s inside the building, it’s furnished with... plants. Toilets, shower, and sink in a tropical setting!
The terrace gives us a full view of Sairee Beach—pure dream landscape.
After our nap, we noticed the weather had changed again. That didn’t stop us from heading down to the beach and taking the paved path from Haad Yao to Haad Mae.
It was dark by the time we returned, and we couldn’t find the path back to our bungalow. Luckily, the hotel’s service includes lending a mobile phone to call the owner. So we didn’t end up sleeping in the jungle with snakes and spiders.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
It rained a bit in the evening and more during the night. We came to Koh Tao hoping to tour the island by longtail boat during the day, but we’ll have to give up on that plan—on top of the gray skies, there’s a lot of wind. We knew that at this time of year, one or two days might be tough, but this time it’s really not ideal. Goodbye to saying hello to the little fish, goodbye to the stunning viewpoints and dozens of paradise-like photos. The 2,500 baht we saved won’t exactly lift our spirits.
So, we put Plan B into action. In the morning, we set off on foot toward the viewpoint overlooking the Nanguyan islets—those famous rocky points connected by a strip of fine sand you see in all the ads.
It’s a pleasant walk, though luckily it’s not too far since there’s some elevation gain. Every little stroll in Asia is enjoyable—through Western eyes, there’s always something interesting, surprising, or funny to observe.
The viewpoint is inside a large resort where staying isn’t exactly affordable. It’s disheartening to see, just before the entrance, piles of trash everywhere, people burning waste in the open air, and let’s not even talk about the smell. It reminds us of that forum member who mentioned the "other side of the coin" about Koh Tao.
After our little trek, we worked up an appetite. We’re far from everything, so let’s have lunch at the resort. Of course, the food isn’t great. Sure, we’re eating on a beautiful balcony overlooking the sea, with views of the beach, rocks, and islets. But what do you make of a resort where a night costs at least 100 €, yet they can’t even provide a crab cracker or an espresso machine?
We spent the afternoon wandering around the village and shops, watching people go about their lives while sipping good milk chocolate and banana shakes at a friendly vendor’s stall near an intersection. In the end, being forced to take a break did us some good. We always pack our days so full to see as much as possible that we end up exhausted but happy. A little pause from activities doesn’t hurt. And let’s not forget—with the heat, humidity, and youth long gone, every step counts triple. Plus, the alien that invaded our stomachs in Cambodia is only just leaving us.
These islands *are* beautiful. But hotels are pricier, taxis are overpriced, and more than one restaurant doesn’t live up to Thailand’s reputation.
On Koh Tao, we mostly saw clothes shops, massage parlors, and restaurants.
Now, we’re really looking forward to the highlight of our trip: the east coast of Southern Thailand, from Chumphon to Bangkok...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Waiting for the boat on the dock, we won’t have any regrets: a few raindrops, gusts of wind—seriously, it’s almost chilly. We try not to think that from the day after our departure, it might be sunny for a whole month.
The Lomprayah boat looks like a hovercraft. Inside, it’s a bit like a movie theater without a screen. It rocks a little, but that’s just because the boat is going much faster. For the same price, we definitely preferred Lomprayah.
For this part of mainland southern Thailand, planning wasn’t easy. Paper guides don’t go into much detail, and even on this forum, only a few people seem to have explored it. We were able to complete our itinerary after some tedious online research.
Our luck was finding a hotel where one of the employees speaks English fluently and responds quickly and efficiently to questions. This helped us optimize our stay. That’s how the hotel driver was waiting for us right at the pier so we could start our visits.
Of course, things didn’t go as planned. We later realized that, probably to please us, the hotel had added unplanned—and unwanted—stops to our itinerary. So at the first stop, we were a bit surprised to pay 200 baht each for entry. We ended up in a small, poorly maintained natural park with a museum, a walk through a large mangrove with a suspension bridge over a channel near the sea.
We were a little annoyed, especially since the driver, who was otherwise very friendly, didn’t understand what we were trying to explain. He finally handed us his phone, and after some difficulty, we managed to make our contact understand that we preferred to stick to the original plan.
That’s how we arrived at the memorial of a prince, son of a former king of Thailand. He’s venerated, along with a few monks, in this place made up of two small chapels and a courtyard. The whole thing was built to resemble a boat. Below, you can even board a small torpedo boat. It’s quite unique.
We had a peaceful lunch by Sairee Beach.
The afternoon was more interesting. Our driver took us to a viewpoint on a hill overlooking the small town of Pak Nam, a few kilometers south of Chumphon. The view alone was worth the trip. You can see the lush, mountainous countryside, Pak Nam with its river and port facilities, the beaches and islands, and the sea where the green, blue, and brown waters create a pastel tableau that photos can’t fully capture.
Our last visit was to Wat Fa Sala Loy, a temple set in the countryside and forest. We loved the atmosphere with its large central tree, roosters, and dogs. Monks were in the middle of a ceremony, and we took a discreet peek—those prayers and chants always delight us; that’s what travel is all about.
In an old dwelling, a mummified monk rests under a glass bell. It was time for our small donation.
The long half-day cost us 25 €, including the vehicle and guide.
It wasn’t late yet when we returned to the hotel after this packed day. The Tanisa Resort costs 25 € per night. Large rooms, good bedding, AC, and friendly staff. The buildings surround a slightly chilly pool that’s not perfectly maintained. When we arrived, young Asian guests were swimming in it fully clothed, as is customary.
Even though the hotel restaurant has a good reputation, we preferred to head into town. It was only two or three kilometers away, but the taxi overcharged us by asking for 60 baht.
Chumphon itself isn’t particularly interesting, but in the evening, there’s a lot of activity on the main street. There are tons of street vendors preparing all kinds of dishes. After enjoying the scene for a while, we had a seafood omelet at one of the stalls—40 baht, a bit greasy but delicious.
We stopped elsewhere to enjoy fried fish and fish eggs with garlic (total 120 baht).
To help it all go down, we walked back—it was so pleasant out...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
For this second and final day in Chumphon, we let ourselves be guided around again. We didn’t opt for an island excursion—we were quoted too high a price for a private trip, and we weren’t in town long enough to find a sailor who’d offer a better rate. For those passing through the area, we’d like to point out that there are a large number of small islands off the coast of Chumphon, roughly divided into two chains, one further north than the other. The photos we’ve seen online are really tempting—there are about half a dozen that look stunning, like the northern duo Ngam Hoi and Ngam Hai, as well as Ko Chorakee, and to the south, Koh Marttra and Rangka Chio. It seems the best time to visit is in the spring. Maybe someone will volunteer to do a little report one day?
We drive for a while, and the scenery remains very pleasant.
Part of the Thep Jaroen temple is located under a rocky cliff. There’s also a mummified monk. Steps lead to a large circular cave where we discover a substantial collection of old Buddhas, most of them made of wood. For once, they’re not flashy, gaudy, or freshly repainted representations. You really feel like you’re in an authentic place, clearly left as it was. A beautiful, isolated spot where we’re alone. In this cave, we see the only snake of our trip—a gray creature about a meter long. It seems to be dying and barely moves; this will be its final resting place.
The next visits take us to another cave, still lost in the middle of nature in a pretty setting, then to a small waterfall, but nothing remarkable.
We have lunch at a small beachside restaurant in Thung Wallaen. The place feels a bit like a holiday village, but at this time of year, like everywhere else along this coast, we see very few people. Authentic Thailand can also be found along these 700 km of coastline south of Bangkok—we keep noticing it. As soon as you leave the towns, you quickly feel that pleasant sense of "the way things used to be" and "the end of the world."
After finding our receipts, it turns out the first day was charged at 800 baht, and the second at 1200 baht for a much longer distance. Very reasonable and super comfortable.
On the way back, as usual, it’s the pineapple-banana stop. This time, we send the driver. Sure enough, the prices aren’t the same. A very large cut pineapple costs 30 baht, and a bunch of about fifteen small bananas goes for 15 baht!
Since our street-dinner experiment was a success the night before, we go back in the evening. There are so many improbable rural looks, so many funny scenes, so many old-fashioned shops—we love it.
It’s another feast, and our T-shirts end up smelling strongly of fried food.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Nous avons l'avantage de vous présenter notre sixième récit de voyage avec photos sur l'Asie du sud-est, celui-ci étant intégralement consacré à la Thailande.…
Carnets de voyage › Thaïlande / Laos · 132 replies
Voici donc notre troisième récit de voyage avec photos, après le Vietnam en 2012 et la Thailande sud + Angkor en 2013. Une nouvelle fois, nous remercions ceux…
4 JUILLET 2015 Voici notre 4 ème récit de séjour en images. Celui-ci sera complémentaire de notre second récit, édité il y a deux ans sur ce forum: en effet,…
Comme le temps passe: nous voilà déjà à présenter notre dixième carnet de voyage aux lecteurs de VoyageForum! Nous avons découvert la Thailande il y a une…
J'avoue avoir pas mal tergiversé avant de me décider à publier ce carnet. Car l'Asie du Sud-Est, à commencer par la Thaïlande, est une zone sur laquelle…
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
Bonjour tout le monde, nous voici rentrés d'un RT USA organisé par nos soins du 31/07/2026 au 26/08/2026.
La destination : Le Sud-Ouest USA avec le Texas, l'Arizona et le Nouveau-Mexique. 7000 kilomètres effectués à la louche.
L'Auto : Une Chevrolet Equinoxe pour deux en passant par BSP Auto et Avis. Et dedans 2 valises, un sac de voyage, deux valises cabines, la glacière de chez Walmart, le matos photos et les bouteilles d'eau (pack de 40).
Le trajet : Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo et Dallas pour finir avec départ sur DFW.
Les voyageurs : Deux séniors bien avancés dans l'âge (73 et 75) mais toujours en activité (pas épuisante physiquement) (pour rester vivants et financer les voyages), autonomes physiquement à 100%, intellectuellement beaucoup moins, passionnés des USA, pays où tout est possible, plus marcheurs que randonneurs, plutôt hôtels à partir de 3 étoiles que motels de bord de route, plutôt restos Italiens que nourriture US, adeptes des arrêts fréquents pour les photos, plutôt musées que rien, Plutôt sieste que marches forcées. Pas trop râleurs, juste ce qu'il faut pour rester français au pays du grand Satan qu'ils disent.
Pas trés doués pour les langues, Anglais des rues (mais bien pratique), Espagnol nul pour moi hormis : " Hola ! Una Cerveza por Favor ! " Cela fait court. Madame comprend tout mais refuse de parler.
Le coût du RT : Environ 12 000 euros avec les vols AF, Auto, Essence, cadeaux, visites et tutti quanti. Bien maitrisé puisque 13500 euros prévus au départ.
Le bilan positif : Un régal avec les longues routes à perte de vue. Des Musées à découvrir. Le constat de la présence Hispanique et de son Histoire importante dans ce secteur de l'Amérique. Des locaux adorables. Des touristes plus ou moins sympas. Un accent Texan abominable et difficile à comprendre. Des stations Gas qui sont de véritables magasins avec nourriture préparée et autre alcools vendus en Arizona et Nouveau-Mexique et des employés au top ! Toujours prêts à rigoler !
Le bilan négatif : La chaleur tout au long du séjour...43° sur Dallas en fin de séjour. Impossible de sortir dans les rues. Beaucoup de "Homeless" dans les rues de l'Hyper Centre de Dallas. Les breakfasts Hôtel toujours les mêmes. On s'y fait.
Donc, positif certes mais le concept commence à fatiguer. Il se pourrait que le modèle RT autonome soit repensé pour le prochain. SI celui qui est en haut nous prête vie.
Pour la suite, attendons les premières photos triées et passées à la moulinette.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Il arrive souvent qu'on nous demande quoi visiter en Belgique .
Et les réponses ramènent le plus souvent à Bruges , Gand, Anvers et Bruxelles , avec raison , ces villes valant la peine d'être visitées 😉 .
Toutefois, la Belgique, bien que petite , ne se limite pas à ces 4 villes .
J'habite l'une d'entre elles ( Bruxelles) , passe avec plaisir du temps dans les trois autres , mais j'ai envie d'aborder d'autres coins moins connus , qui pourront compléter le séjour de ceux qui ont envie d'en voir un peu plus , ou de voir autre chose .
C'est qu'entre deux voyages , j'aime bien visiter l'un ou l'autre coin du pays où j'habite .
D'où l'idée d'un carnet de balades .
La plupart des endroits dont je vais parler peuvent être visités en faisant l'aller-retour le même jour , au départ de Bruxelles , que ce soit en transports en commun ou en voiture .
Dans l'ordre chronologique des sujets abordés :
- Le barrage de la Gileppe ( province de Liège) -message 2 , page 1
- Le domaine de La Hulpe ( Brabant wallon ) - message 3 , page 1
- Malines ( province d'Anvers ) message 4 , page 1
- La côte - message 5 , page 1
- Le Westhoek , au départ de La Panne - message 6 , page 1
- Le Zwin, au départ de Knokke - message 7 , page 1
- Lier ( entre Malines et Anvers ) - message 8 , page 1
- Mons (Hainaut) - message 9 , page 1
- La région de Florenville . - message 12 , page 1
- Les Cantons de l'Est - message 13 , page 1
- Dinant - message 18 , page 1
- Le jardin japonais d'Hasselt - message 24 , page 2
- Louvain message 29 , page 2
- Louvain-la-neuve - message 32 , page 2
- Ostende - message 42 (page 3) et message 166 (page 9)
- Les floralies de Grand-Bigard . - message 43 , page 3
- Le bois de Halle -message 44 , page 3
- Les pralines - message 54 , page 3
- Charleroi - message 68 , page 4
- Namur - message 92 , page 5
- Le Bois du Cazier ( Marcinelle) - message 95 , page 5
- Les couques et les gozettes - message 96 , page 5
- Liège - message 99 , page 5
- Tournai - message 115 , page 6 .
- Audenarde ( Oudenaarde ) - message 121, page 7
- Jardin botanique de Meise - message 124, page 7 .
- Tongres ( Tongeren ) - message 125 , page 7 .
- Château de Beersel ( Brabant flamand) - message 126, page 7 .
- Bruxelles confinée ( messages 150 et 154 , page 8 )
- L'hôpital Notre Dame à la Rose , à Lessines ( messages 161 et 162 , page 9 ) .
- Westende ( message 167, page 9)
je complète cette liste au fur et à mesure de l'avancement du carnet ...
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!
The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not the south?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or go with the flow?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
You’ll find here a post with some practical information.
And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.
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As a supplement, the route track.
Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
January 2026
Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
I’d been wanting to discover Sulawesi for years. But then life happened—COVID, the cost of flight tickets, you name it. Long story short, years went by, but we finally set off as a family for a three-week trip in southern Sulawesi: Rammang Rammang, Rantepao, Sengkang, Bira, and Selayar.
I like to spend a good amount of time in the places I visit, giving myself the chance to really get to know the area and meet locals. So no island-hopping this time—just the south. But when I say "just," it’s not restrictive at all, given how rich this island is in landscapes, little encounters, and magical moments.
Wednesday 07/08 - Thursday 07/09:
We left Montpellier for what was supposed to be five flights, though we only took four to start, landing in Jakarta.
We picked up our luggage there to catch a flight to Makassar the next day. That’s the only way we could get an affordable ticket (702 €).
I won’t bore you with the flight details—there’s not much to say. We arrived at 7 PM and considered heading straight to Makassar that evening. But we opted for a recovery night before taking off again. Good thing we did, because my son’s suitcase was missing...
First contact with the locals was a bit stressful—a trip without your luggage isn’t exactly fun. But right away, a woman reassured us: the suitcase was just enjoying some extra time in Singapore. Maybe it was doing some last-minute shopping. Anyway, nothing serious—it was supposed to arrive at 9 AM the next day. That gave us some breathing room since our flight wasn’t until noon.
So off we went to our hotel (Days Hotel & Suites) near the airport. It was cheap (40 € for three rooms—my kids are older and need their space), but it wasn’t worth much more. The place had definitely seen better days. But no big deal—we were only there for the night, and... we got to watch France beat Morocco in the World Cup live at 3 AM. That’s what really mattered!
Friday 07/10: In search of the lost suitcase
First challenge of the morning: finding our missing suitcase. They sent us to the airport basement, to the staff entrance. We were greeted with smiles, and an airport employee led me through the underground corridors back to the baggage claim. Right on time at 9 AM, the suitcase arrived, just like they’d promised. We were finally complete!
Off we went to change terminals, grab a well-deserved meal, and board our fifth flight to Makassar.
Little side note: I struggled for a while trying to book domestic flights directly on the airlines’ websites with no luck. Without meaning to advertise (though I guess I am a little), I realized it’d be easier to use sites like tiket.com or Traveloka. That turned out to be a great choice—I even ended up booking hotels through them later in the trip.
12:40 PM: We were on our way to Makassar. First good news: we were the only tourists. Well, the only European tourists on the flight, anyway.
No, you’re not dreaming—the bag is full of... potato chip packets.
To each their own souvenirs, I guess...
When we arrived in Makassar, a driver was waiting to take us straight to Rammang Rammang: 250,000 IDR (12 €) to our guesthouse (Rammang Rammang House). Forget about meeting people on the bus—we were headed straight to the first stop of our trip, and it was already stunning.
My kids’ guesthouse:
Ours:
View of the little lake:
But not everything is straightforward around here.
I wanted to get a local SIM card for internet and calls. I found them expensive at Jakarta’s airport (20 € for 20 GB), so I decided to wait. Well, no luck in Rammang Rammang either. You can’t just buy one from the local shop—you need a Telkomsat store (they have the best coverage). So we’d have to wait for Rantepao to get Wi-Fi... When I say "local shop," I mean the little shack around the corner. No big deal—we’d find one easily in Rantepao for 5 € and 25 GB. So there we were, offline, just the four of us enjoying the amazing view.
Saturday 07/11: Rammang Rammang
We woke up early to the sound of wedding music blasting through the village (everyone’s invited!). Off we went to explore the area.
A little walking, a little boat ride (shared with a French tourist and a Polish one—yes, there *are* tourists here, just not many; 750,000 IDR for up to 8 people) through a lovely canal, and we discovered the karst site. It was peaceful and beautiful.
The river:
The karst site:
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Okay, Palermo—we know it. We go there to marvel at the architectural wonders born from the Arab-Norman-Byzantine-Gothic mix. And rightly so. We also go to treat our taste buds to all kinds of delights, both savory and sweet. Again, rightly so. We go to succumb to the charms of Palermo’s women, their sun-kissed skin glowing with golden highlights. Still, rightly so. And all while fantasizing about a mafia we’ll never actually see. Anyway.
But you’ll also find street art everywhere, even in the historic center. Sometimes, you just need to step a few meters away from the main tourist highways like Cassaro, Via Maqueda, or the main arteries of the Ballarò, Capo, or Vucciria markets to stumble upon some amazing murals. Duck into one or two slightly grimy alleys, weaving past trash and crumbling walls, and you’ll find real gems.
For example, just 50 meters south of the main artery of the Mercato del Capo, there’s a great spot with dozens of murals in a tiny neighborhood of run-down mini-houses. You’ll find plenty more south of the Mercato di Ballarò, in the Albergheria (the grittier side, not the one near Cassaro). There’s some in Ballarò itself too, but it’s hard to spot when the market’s in full swing with stalls everywhere. La Kalsa isn’t left out either, nor is Vucciria—just step away from the restaurant-packed streets.
Here are a few examples that really caught my eye.
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary:
27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)
-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)
-->7 days in Tokyo
The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots...
decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring
research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan
book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later
reserve rental cars
order yen
check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life!
Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats.
Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited.
Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Before Our Departure
Preparing for this trip started 9 months before our departure in June. For those planning a similar itinerary, it’s important to book accommodations well in advance, especially in the Okavango and Savuti campsites—otherwise, you might not find any availability.
Introduction
After visiting Zambia three years ago and Namibia and western Botswana a year and a half ago, this year we chose Zimbabwe (Hwange NP) and the northern half of Botswana.
Our flight from Paris was to Victoria Falls with Ethiopian Airlines, with a layover in Addis Ababa. We rented a 4x4 from Bushlore in Kasane, complete with two rooftop tents since there are four of us on this adventure. Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4 and, most importantly, gave us a rundown of the vehicle and its equipment. Pay close attention to what they tell you—it could be crucial if something goes wrong, as it did for us during the trip.
Our Itinerary
We arrived on June 12th at noon. At Victoria Falls Airport, we got our double-entry visa right away—I’d already pre-booked it online on the site https://www.evisa.gov.zw/.
Since our vehicle was in Botswana, we had to cross the border from Victoria Falls into Botswana for the first time.
The next morning, Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4. After completing the formalities, we headed toward Zimbabwe and the town of Victoria Falls.
We woke up early the next morning to be at Victoria Falls at sunrise. The scenery was stunning, but since it was the start of the dry season, the Zambezi was still high, so the falls had a strong flow. This made it hard to fully appreciate their beauty.
In the early afternoon, we left for Hwange NP, where we stayed for 4 days. Two days at Gwango campsite near Dete, followed by two days at Robins Camp. We expected to see more animals at Robins, but that wasn’t the case. In Hwange, we didn’t spot any predators, but we did see plenty of mammals (buffalo, elephants, giraffes, zebras, and antelopes).
After a few days in Zimbabwe, we crossed back into Botswana at Pandamatenga. We stopped at Nata Lodge for a good night’s rest—driving on the dirt roads is exhausting.
We left Nata and headed toward Nxai Pan. The road was sandy but manageable. We made a small detour to admire some beautiful baobabs at "Baines Baobabs." Then we continued to our campsite, Nxai Pan South Camp. Keep in mind that many campsites in Botswana aren’t fenced (except for the shower/toilet areas), so animals can roam freely within the camp. Take precautions, especially after dark.
After our stop in Nxai Pan, we headed to Maun. We decided to break our journey in Maun before heading to Moremi and the Okavango Delta for three reasons: first, we needed to stock up on supplies and fuel for the next 5 days; second, our fridge had broken (luckily, Bushlore has a branch in Maun); and third, the drive from Nxai to our camp in Xakanaxa in the delta would’ve taken too long. I always avoid driving after dark.
We arrived at our Xakanaxa camp on June 21st in the early afternoon. Not wanting to waste time, we booked a boat ride on the Okavango Delta, leaving at 4:00 PM for a 2-hour sunset cruise. For those interested, to the right of the Xakanaxa X1 site, there’s a sign for boat rides. The organizer is very professional and offers prices that are nothing like those of the lodges.
It was a beautiful ride through the delta with a stunning sunset. Being on a boat is much more relaxing than driving on the dirt roads. That didn’t stop us from doing self-drive safaris the next morning and late afternoon, though.
Then came the time to leave the delta and head toward Savuti, a much drier region. And that’s when the toughest part of our trip began. First, we decided to go up via Khwai. The rainy season was over, but the area was still marshy. We had to cross a few small water patches, testing the depth to make sure we could get through. Luckily, a sign on the road pointed us toward a drier route. We reached Khwai without any issues, but then we made a major mistake. Instead of taking the main track toward Mababe Gate to reach Savuti Camp, we took a straight path north and then a right turn to get to our camp. Bad call—we got stuck in the sand, with one rear wheel buried halfway and a front wheel off the ground. We were genuinely scared we wouldn’t get out, especially since we were on a deserted track, 20 kilometers from our destination, with night falling in two hours. This is where paying attention to the vehicle instructions really paid off—we had to use the jack to get out of the mess. The result: we arrived at Savuti campsite just before dark (Distance: 146.3 km, Duration: 9 hours, 56 minutes, and 3 seconds, Average speed: 14.7 km/h, tracked with Osmand). At reception, the staff couldn’t understand how we’d gotten there—we hadn’t passed through any of Savuti’s reserve entry gates.
The next morning, no one felt like driving, so we did a game drive with a guide. I don’t know if it was some kind of reward, but the outing was amazing. We saw three lions and, best of all, a pack of African wild dogs that we had time to admire and photograph. The next day, we did a short self-drive and found one of the lions from the day before drinking at a waterhole. That was the end of our Savuti adventure.
Now we’re heading to Kasane. We returned our vehicle and settled in for our last two nights there. The next morning, since we no longer had a car, we decided to do one last early-morning game drive in Chobe NP. It turned out great—we followed two brother lions and saw plenty of other mammals. The only downside of Chobe is the number of tourists, which was a change from the other parks we’d visited. That said, we’re tourists too, so...
In the evening, we took one last boat ride on the Chobe River to end on a high note with a beautiful sunset.
After a good night’s sleep and plenty of wonderful memories, landscapes, animals, and emotions, it was time to leave. We left early in the morning with the same taxi company as before to cross the border into Zimbabwe one last time and head to the airport, where we took off to return to France.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context
This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda.
Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda
Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs.
This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast.
Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday.
We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠
We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁
We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes.
Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing.
Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop.
On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Bonjour,
De retour sur le forum - et première rédaction d'un espèce de carnet de retour de notre 4ème voyage en Indo.
Contexte : une trentaine de jours, en scooter et en duo, sur Florès (et une petite incursion dans l'archipel de Solor, plus précisément à Lembata (chut, faut pas trop en parler !!!), qui donne envie d'en faire beaucoup plus là bas malgré les infrastructures sporadiques), en partie dans des destinations déjà bien connues du forum (la classique Ruteng / Bajawa / Riung / Moni voir baie de Maumere) ... et qui ne parlera pas du PN de Komodo ou de Wae Rebo, puisque nous n'y sommes pas allés 🏴☠️.
Texte en anglais (issu d'une autre plateforme). Sans nul doute, des traducteurs intelligents ou pas marcheront à merveille en cas d'anglophobie 🤪.
Disponible à toute fin utile pour des détails ou infos.
Equippement : Yam' Nmax 155 ; 2x saccoches cavalières (25L) + sac de selle (30L) + saccoche tunnel (15L pour le matos photo) ; casques et vêtements d'enduro amenés depuis la France.
Itinéraire : boucle depuis Labuan bajo jusqu'à Pulau Lembata ; juillet-août 2026
Road conditions graded from A (excellent) to D (very bad, at least for a Scooter… a CRF/KLX or even honda ADV would do better on that)
D1 : Labuan Bajo – Reok via Ranggoe, Rego & Tagol (130km ; 5hrs). Section LBajo – Rego (90 km ; B) is quite good tarmac, despite a lot of elevation with many small valleys and passes. Rego – Tagol (10km ; D) is a stone road (not gravel), some ascents & very poor condition ; necessary to lower tyre pressure. Tagol – Reok port (22km, quality depends considerably from D to B). Reok port – Towncenter : B. Night @Iffah Homestay (100k for fan room, mandi attached, no breakfast), simple but clean. Notes : path to danau Sano Limbung was closed ; access to Tiwu Pai & Wae Kuli (waterfalls) not permitted in july 2026.
D2 : Reok – Riung via Pota (105km ; 3h-3h30). The road is very narrow in some part, thanks to the uncut bushes (lowering visibility hence extra caution as animals/people can suddenly appear in a turn…) but generally good condition except many eroded sections and some unpaved ones. Grade C/B. 2 nights @Mentos (285k for AC room)
D3 : Boat tour in Riung (booked directly with a captain, 800k for two for private boat incl. lunch and NP fees) + sunset from Watu Mitong Riung (should not be missed).
D4 : Riung – Muku Saki via Mbay (around 100km ; 3h30). Quality varies from A in the vicinity of Mbay to eroded sections (C) in secluded places. Night @Sao Paolo Homestay (250k for fan room with mandi, maybe overpriced but nice house and great food). Note : if you happen to pass by Mbay on Saturday, the market is well worth a stop (cheapest Ikat on the trip : you’ll be asked normal prices providing you’re OK in Bahasa…)
D5 : Muku Saki – Tanjung Kajuwulu (near Ndete) (90km, 3h). Many patholes, eroded (C). Night at Déjà Vu Homestay (220k for a matress on the floor & outside mandi/toilets ; I woud define this as a tourist trap – the quote we had for food was double priced too…)
D6 : Tanjung Kajuwulu – Waiterang (east of Maumere, 55km , 1h30). Pathholes till maumere, then All good (TransFlores), C/A. Night at Sunset Cottage (new concrete room, very serene place ; 270k for AC with bathroom ; much prefered Sunset over Lena House (more customers, more built up).
D7 : Waiterang – Larantuka via Boru and Eputobi (TransFlores ; grade A ; 115km / 2h40). Particularly liked the drink stalls (marked as Rest Area Eputobi) and the out of order aquatic park just before Larantuka (obyej wisata waiplatin). Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay, which is not advertising itself as Larantuka Beach Homestay as some contributor signals here and on goole maps review. Best breakfast of the trip (Cumi Cumi !!!) ; 275k for AC room with bathroom.
D8 : Local Boat (Kapal Kayu) from the main port to Lembata (Lewoleba). Departure 8am ; price 60k/head + 50k for the bike. Stop enroute on Adonara (where we did not stop due to fights between communities). Night @Elmany Homestay (275k for AC room with bathroom, fan room with shared bathroom also available). Whole afternoon at Pantai Hadakewa, fantastic place (good snorkeling, great views of Ile Api aka Gn Lewotolo). Road condition : A (did not expect the TransLembata to be that good…).
D9 : Loop around Ile Api (50km, 2hrs), anticlockwise. Stops enroute at Situs Tulang Paus (whale squeletton), pantai Jotona, pantai Wena (we expected to snorkel from there, but wind was very strong that day), situs Watu Nale, Selat Sonia. The western coast is far less interesting. Road conditions : bad (C) on the eastern side (up to Riangbeda), good (B/A) afterwards. Night @Elmany Homestay.
D10 : Lewoleba – Lamalera via the western and south coast (70km, 2h30). Good road (B) for roughly the first 55km (up to Tapobali), then eroded track for the last 15km (in some parts steep and dangerous) up to Lamalera (D/C). Notes : 1/ Kuma resort denied us the entry for some drink ; 2/Pantai Waijarang « complex » is abandonned but closed with fences ; you can still sneak in ; 3/ some reports advise to skip Bukit Cinta (foreigner entry fee) for Bukit Doa Watomiten (stations of the cross) ; well Bukit Cinta has also been abandonned (well spent money…sic) but remains opened with structures falling (quickly) appart. Night @Lamalera Inn (200k per head including meals ; very basic fan room + attached mandi). Planned 2 nights, spent only one, as it’s the only tenant I had difficulties with (only interested in money, initially stated crazy prices, starts loud music at 6am … and drinking moke at 8am…)
D11 : Trip to Wulandoni for the Barter Market (Saturday only). Bad road (C) along the coast. Had to report at the Kantor upon arrival, which quite surprisingly asked 100k per person (foreigner) to go inside the (outside) market. Other « local » tourists (a group from Jakarta) were not asked to pay. Well, since a market is a public space and not a zoo, we refused payment and enjoyed the activity from the kopi stall next to it. Returned then to Lamalera for the catches of the day, then to Lewoleba via the mountain road (45km, 2 hours). First 10km to Puor is in very bad condition and uphill (D/C). The remaining is on a newly constructed road (A). Note : Air Panas Sabutobo is abandonned and falling apart (again…) but there are still some water pipes along the river that you can enjoy (depending how lucky you are, just with the forest sounds as companion). Night @Elmany Homestay
D12 : Chill day alond the northern coast (Batu Payung, Pantai Hadakewa with lot of snorkeling, drove till Wailolong and backtracked to Pantai Lewolein for more snorkeling (nice canyons there !) and another fantastic sunset over Ile Api (see GMaps pictures)). Night @Elmany Homestay
D13 : Monday weekly market at Pada, southwest of Lewoleba. Renowned but honnestly dont plan any itinerary specifically for it, just an ordinary Kampung weekly market. Returned to Larantuka and Flores with the 12pm local boat (the same boat that leaves from Larantuka at 8am). Same prices as the first leg. Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay
D14 : Larantuka – Waiterang along the northern coast (100km, 3h) via Pantai Kawaliwu, Tewuk Lewokluok (trail is easy to find, very nice snorkelling in a lagoon), Pantai Lato (to my opinion the most beautiful beach on Flores and you’ll be the only visitor, as opposed to Pantai Koka) and Pantai Hia, until rejoining the TransFlores near Nebe. Grade C on the costal eroded road / track. 3 nights @Lena Guesthouse (booked ahead as it fills up quickly, but we prefered its neighbour Sunset Beach Guesthouse)
D15 : Snorkeling trip organised by Lena Guesthouse (200k per head excluding NP fees and lunch)). The drop-off near Pulau Babi is a very nice spot.
D16 : scooter day trip around the Egon Range (too lazy to hike it…), through nice Sikka villages (route : Watublapi, Umauta, Bola, pantai Doreng, Nakatoli, foot of Gn Egon, Air panas Blidit). The track from Natakoli to the foot of Gn Egon is very steep, damaged and wet (with moss) ; I would recommend not to attempt that in case of bad weather.
D17 : Waiterang – Moni (130km, 3h30, transflores grade A/B) via Pantai Koka (refused to pay the mafia entry fee…) and Jopu (some rumah Adat Lio). Stopped at Museum Bikon Blewut, south of Maumere. Very nice artefacts (especially wooden statues from Papuan, great ikat collection) although very disorganized and sadly non-visited (hence masterpieces fall into oblivion). 2 Nights @Liahz Lodge (150k for fan room, basic bathroom… but right next to Air Panas Liasembe (free, no closing time) !!!).
D18 : Sunrise from Kelimutu with a nice weather (stayed until 8.30am). I don’t know if the sunrise is really worth it (lot of people ascending and watching the sunrise – a lot but nothing compared to e.g. Gn Bromo), nearly everyone going down around 7am, then there is virtually nobody. Trip (20km one way, good road B) to Kampung Adat Nggela (Lio). Although the village is habited and mostly out of the beaten path, I have mixed fillings due to the fact that most ladies (some are pushy) try to sell you (bad) pieces of ikat.
D19 : Moni – Ende via Detusoko paddy fields, Kampung Adat Saga (Lio) and Puncak Ndona ; 75km 2h30. We really liked Saga (nice setting on the mountain, friendly villagers, no selling, mix between traditional and more modern houses in that lively village). Sunset from Bukit Raja, on the peninsula with a 360 view on Gn Iya, Gn Meja Kota Ende and the mountains behind. Note : at the end of the road (search for Gunung Meja Tourist Info Center), there is a (sand) track leading to the path. 1/ only intend the track if you have off road driving experience ; 2/ dont trust the walking time stated by Maps.me. Took us 45mins on a steady pace to reach the summit. Night @Hoja Homestay, 300k for a comfortable AC room with bathroom.
D20 : Ende – Bajawa, via Air Panas Mengeruda ; grade A, 120km, 3 hours. Note : don’t plan to short in Mengeruda (Soa), very easy to spend a half day there, especially if playing with local kids. Stay @Cinnamon GH, 250k for double with fan and hot shower (cheaper options with shared hot shower availlable).
D21 : First day in Bajawa : Watu Nari Wowo (Avatar Hill, sic…), Kampung Adat Ngada Tololela & Gurusina (very very friendly people, complementary views of Gn Inerie & Wolo Deru). Sunset from Puncak Manulalu (well… Heaven’s door Bar & Restaurant)
D22 : Second day in Bajawa : Kampung Adat Ngio (hardly visited, best view on Gn Inerie), Air Panas Malanage, Kampung Adat Bena (the most visited Ngada village (after Bela ?) in the area, we went there at the end of the afternoon to avoid tours, early morning would be fine too), and Gunung Wolobobo for a terrific sunset
D23 : returned to Gunung Wolobobo for sunrise with Gn Ebulobo in the distance (search for a track on the eastern slope, near the communication antenna). You can circuit the rim to the usual viewpoint (westside, sunset spot), the path is easy to find. Then took again the road to Aimere, visiting Kampung Adat Belaraghi enroute (the setting is maybe less rewarding than all the previous villages). 56km ; 1h30. The road to Belaraghi is fine, except the final part.
D24 : Aimere – Ruteng (105km, 3h30). Nice detour by the paddy fields of Wodo (southwest of Golo Loni) of Sunset from Golo Curu (nice encounters with locals). Night @Tange GH, 130k for room with outside (private) bathroom, no breakfast.
D25 : Surroundings of Ruteng (paddy fields north and east of ruteng ; Maps.me has funny tracks starting from Kenda), and the rather pleasant city itself (pasar, churches, lapangan). We finally skipped Liang Bua.
D26 : Ruteng - Labuan Bajo (130km, 3h30). No visits of the waterfalls close to the TransFlores (entry fee (with bule prices) + mandatory guide etc…). Sunset from Bukit Hercadi with very few locals (Bukit Sylvia & Bukit Amelia, just south, were packed). 2 nights @Wellamas Homestay, away from the harbour and its advantages/disadvantages. 230k for comfortable AC room with hot shower.
D27 : New road to Golo Mori Convention Center (another big money well spent…), with nice views on the strait separating Flores from Pulau Rinca. Some empty beaches (e.g. Pantai Pasir Pajang ; we were there on a weekday perhaps frequented by people from LBajo only). 30km (40 mins) one way, perhaps the fastest road of Flores…
D28 : Morning on the peninsula north of Labuan Bajo before taking a flight to Jakarta in the afternoon. On Google maps, the asphalt road only goes to Teras Langit ; it now (august 2026) continues to Puncak Basok and is still in progress towards the eastern part of the peninsula. On the way back, two other nice Bukit where you can enjoy nice views on the bay (and the resorts…) : Bukit Lontar & Bukit Beta. Note : we only found one public (and nice and quiet) beach in the area ; tagged as Sunset Point Beach on Gmaps. All the rest was closed by fences ; they are privately owned (although the Indonesian consitution grants the coastline as public space).
We're a family of five: one dad, one mom, and three kids aged 10, 15, and 18.
Before diving into each stop in more detail, here are a few general thoughts:
We wanted to sample a bit of everything Japan has to offer in terms of landscapes, accommodation, and transport. We were after walks, temples, restaurants, shopping, and some downtime—but no "all-inclusive experiences" or museums for this first visit.
Three medium-sized (60x42x25) canvas suitcases, plus a duffel bag and a few small backpacks. 23 kg in the hold on the way out, 60 kg on the way back. 36 kg of shopping, without even trying. I think this is the maximum suitcase size if you don’t want to stress on the Shinkansen: they fit easily in the overhead racks.
Round-trip with Cathay Pacific, layover in Hong Kong: no need to collect luggage in Hong Kong—we checked it in at departure and picked it up in Tokyo, and the same on the way back (checked in Osaka, picked up at our final destination). This let us explore Hong Kong without worrying about our bags. Food and entertainment were pretty good—meals included a little Häagen-Dazs on each flight, and the entertainment had way more Asian cinema than you’d find on a Western airline, which was a nice way to see how much weight Western culture carries in Asia.
The original plan was to fly directly from Ishigaki to Hong Kong, but due to Typhoon Dolphin, we had to cancel the Ishigaki leg. Cathay didn’t bat an eye about swapping the Ishigaki-HK flight for an Osaka-HK one, even though it was twice as long.
We were a bit too attached to the idea of ending the trip with some beach time and replaced Ishigaki with Shirahama. It was a mistake—we should’ve visited Hiroshima or spent a little more time in Tokyo instead.
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
Hello and welcome aboard this new travel journal!
We’re heading off to Ireland together—a country I’ve wanted to explore for a very long time.
The moment has finally arrived.
We’ll be traveling as a family—my wife, my husband, and our 7-year-old daughter.
Here’s our itinerary:
24/07: Flight from Marseille to Dublin, overnight in Dublin
25/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
26/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
27/07: Pick up rental car, drive to Dingle, overnight near Tralee on the peninsula
28/07: Visit the Ring of Kerry
29/07: Adare, Bunratty Castle, Galway, overnight in Outheragh, near Galway
30/07: Cliffs of Moher, overnight in Outheragh
31/07: Connemara, overnight in Outheragh
01/08: Drive to Sligo via Westport and Downpatrick Head, overnight in Sligo
02/08: Slieve League, Silver Strand Beach, Glencolmcille, overnight in Sligo
03/08: Drive to Derry via Glenveagh National Park, overnight in Derry
04/08: Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Portrush, Derry, overnight in Derry
05/08: Drive to Belfast, visit Belfast, overnight in Lisburn (Belfast suburbs)
06/08: Game of Thrones filming locations: Dark Hedges, Carrick-a-Rede, Ballintoy, etc., overnight in Lisburn
07/08: Drive to the Wicklow Mountains, visit Wicklow Mountains National Park, overnight in Blessington
08/08: Drive back to Dublin and return to Marseille.
Cost breakdown:
Flights:
Outbound flights with KLM via Amsterdam for 3: 175 € + 40,000 Flying Blue miles (so essentially a free ticket)
Return flight with Aer Lingus for 3: 489 €
Rental car:
10 days booked with Enterprise via Carigami: 443 € including zero-excess insurance.
Accommodation:
Dublin: 3 nights at Maldron Hotel New Cross: 394 €
Tralee: 2 nights in a caravan (Ocean Trail Oasis): 292 €
Outheragh: 3 nights Airbnb, family room with private bathroom: 430 €
Sligo: 2 nights at Clayton Hotel: 456 €
Derry: 2 nights at Belfray Inn: 255 €
Lisburn: 2 nights at Temple Golf Club: 232 €
Blessington: 1 night at Baltyboys Lodges B&B: 158 €
That brings our total to 3,325 € for three.
On the ground, visits, fuel, and food cost around 2,500 €.
So this was quite an expensive trip.
A few price examples:
1 liter of unleaded fuel: 1.89 €
3-day pass in Dublin: 18 €
1 scoop of ice cream: 5 to 6.5 €
Castle visit: 15 € per person
A coffee: 3-4 €
A glass of wine at a restaurant: 8-10 €
A half-pint of Guinness: 7-12 €
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of our adventure in Ireland:
Our decision is our decision. And it’s firm and final. Next winter, our plane will spread its great wings toward the island of Ceylon! "Wait a minute... Ceylon... Ceylon... that name rings a bell, but I can’t quite place it on the globe Grandma gave me for Christmas! Ceylon... Oh right, I’ve got it: Ceylon is the name of my tea!" Exactly. But the name on your pretty tea box is also the one used until 1972 for this island nation, a speck on the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent: Sri Lanka!
For this new adventure, I’m exceptionally leaving my Flo behind, cowardly replaced by a double dose of testosterone. To write the book of this journey with me, I’m bringing along my brother, who’s used to this kind of thing, and... a guest star: My model of resilience. My dad! All aboard! Or rather, all aboard our tuk-tuk! Yes, you read that right: A real tuk-tuk, a little colorful rolling box that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea? Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads overlooking the vastness of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of vehicle. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that allow foreigners to rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our two-square-meter rolling box. Plus, adopting this mode of transport is a surefire way to connect directly with the locals, who’ll surely be curious to see a foreigner driving their iconic vehicle. Not to mention the... let’s say... spicy anecdotes it might generate. I mean, heading into a subtropical zone with my jet-black dad and his unpredictable digestive flora while deliberately choosing the tuk-tuk as our *only* means of transport? That’s the winning combo for an unforgettable adventure! "More seriously, Dad, Sullivan, I’m already loving the idea of living this adventure together, the three of us—brothers and father..."
So, does the intro to this new adventure get your salivary glands going? Yes? Too bad. Because unfortunately, the program handed out by the lady at the entrance has been slightly... let’s say *crumpled*. Some might even say "scrunched up and nearly tossed in the trash." First, six days ago, as the countdown echoed in us like a call to adventure, Cyclone Ditwah grabbed Sri Lanka, played with it like a rag doll, and left it battered on the ground. The toll is devastating: over a thousand dead, thousands of homes wiped out by relentless rains, roads and railways swallowed by massive mudslides. A country wounded once again, after the civil war, the 2004 tsunami, and the post-Covid economic crisis.
But as if this weather disaster wasn’t enough to shake our unbreakable adventurer spirit, fate decided to mess with us further by cutting our trio down to two. The victim? My brother, violently turned away because of a simple date on his passport that didn’t match the border officials’ expectations. Return to sender!
So now it’s just the two of us allowed to board the Qatar Airways Airbus A380 for this trip. If he were here, Denis Brognart would say, "And in the end, only one remains!" Except I know you’ll be with us, following our adventures! Right?
Hello everyone, I’m happy to welcome you to this new travel journal.
We’re heading to Costa Rica together—a Central American destination that dreams are made of for many French travelers and attracts crowds from France.
It was the country’s wild nature and safety that convinced us to go, since we’re traveling with our 7-year-old little one.
We didn’t have much vacation time in February 2026 (only 12 days), so we optimized as much as possible.
Here’s the itinerary:
Wednesday, February 11: Flight from Marseille to San Jose via Paris and Atlanta
Thursday, February 12: Pick up the car, drive to Poas Volcano, visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens
Friday, February 13: Poas Volcano and drive to Manuel Antonio
Saturday, February 14: Manuel Antonio National Park
Sunday, February 15: Nauyaca Waterfall and Playa Linda
Monday, February 16: Drive to Monte Verde and Santa Elena Reserve
Tuesday, February 17: El Tigre Waterfall Reserve and Treetopia Park
Wednesday, February 18: Monte Verde Reserve with a guide and drive to La Fortuna
Thursday, February 19: Sloth guided tour, Observatory Lodge Park
Friday, February 20: Arenal Volcano National Park, Termalistas del Arenal hot springs, and night tour
Saturday, February 21: Return to San Jose, flight to Paris via Atlanta
Sunday, February 22: Arrival in Paris and flight to Marseille.
That gives us a solid 9 days in the country.
Budget breakdown:
Costa Rica is an expensive country, but no more so than France. However, almost all hikes and waterfalls are paid entry, which can really add up.
For meals, sodas (6–10 €) are cheaper than restaurants (10–20 € per dish).
Flights:
We chose Delta Airlines for the price: Marseille to San Jose was 740 € per person (modifiable, with checked baggage and seat selection included).
Other direct flights from Europe were priced between 1200 € and 1600 € with more restrictive conditions.
That’s 2220 € for the family.
Accommodations:
Alajuela, first night: 139 € (1 night) at Rodeo Estancia Boutique Hotel, with personalized airport pickup, transfer to the hotel, and a briefing from Vert Costa Rica agency the next day.
Poas: 66 € (1 night) at Cabañas Tierra Fértil (entire apartment).
Manuel Antonio: 394 € (3 nights) at La Palapa Ecolodge (hotel in the jungle).
Monte Verde: Chalet Aloha Monteverde Cloud Forest (2 bedrooms): 125 € (2 nights).
La Fortuna: Arenal Dream Garden (1 bedroom): 217 € (3 nights).
Total: 941 €.
Car rental:
I went through Vert Costa Rica agency (Vincent is a French expat who set up the agency in Costa Rica and makes great YouTube videos with useful tips).
I rented a 4x4 that was delivered to the hotel the day after arrival and returned at the airport before the flight. The total was 772 €, including full insurance (zero deductible), a child seat, and a phone with a Costa Rican SIM and WhatsApp. The rental company was Poas Rent a Car. The vehicle was well-maintained—no complaints.
Gas: 100 € for the whole trip (3 fill-ups).
Activities:
To get discounts, I bought the pass offered by Vincent, which paid for itself after just one activity. It cost me 30 € (promo since I rented the car through him).
Prices are for 3 people. I’ve added stars to rate them:
La Paz Waterfall Gardens ****: 112 €
Poas Volcano National Park *: 33 €
Manuel Antonio National Park ****: 35 €
Nauyaca Waterfall ***: 25 €
Santa Elena Reserve **: 45 €
El Tigre Waterfall Reserve ****: 141 € (with meal)
Treetopia (ziplining, suspension bridges) **: 250 €
Guided tour of Monte Verde Reserve ***: 113 €
Sloth guided tour (with breakfast) ***: 115 €
Arenal Observatory Lodge (with meal) ****: 102 €
Arenal Volcano National Park *: 34 €
Termalistas del Arenal ****: 20 €
Night tour ***: 116 €
Total: 1171 €.
Meals: 600 €
My favorite restaurants:
Poas: Food court Mercaditas in Fraijanes
Manuel Antonio (near La Palapa): La Langosta and also El Patio
Near Nauyaca Waterfall: Ricar2 el Avión
Between Manuel Antonio and Monte Verde: Soda D’Calle
Santa Elena: HG’s Food
Guadalupe (between Monte Verde and La Fortuna): Soda Río Piedras
Arenal Observatory Lodge restaurant
Arenal Oasis Ecolodge restaurant
Other expenses: 300 € (groceries for breakfast, drinks, ice cream, souvenirs, etc.)
Total overall: 6065 € (about 2020 € per person).
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of this beautiful trip.
In early March, full of carefree joy and happy to return to Morocco, we landed in Marrakech under the sun.
We spent just one night in Marrakech at the Hôtel Toulousain, as we did on our previous trip. And we booked our 3 nights for the end of our trip, the second half of March... Ouch! Ouch! Ouch! But we’re not there yet...
Our first goal is to reach Magdaz, a mountain village in the Tessaout Valley, sometimes called the lost valley.
We discovered the village of Magdaz on this forum, and we were charmed by the photos and comments from travelers who came before us.
The road is easy—it’s dry, and the tarmac takes us right to the village gates at over 2,000 meters above sea level.
We arrive in the afternoon and are left speechless by the beauty of the place. A jewel of Berber architecture! Perfectly restored granaries and kasbahs!
A young man from the village guides us on the visit and opens the doors to the terraces overlooking the village.
Several magnificent collective granaries have been beautifully restored. The warm colors of the stone capture the light wonderfully. It’s stunning!
We won’t find anything decent to stay overnight there, so we head back down a bit and settle in at the Assounfou guesthouse. Lovely welcome. The place is in excellent condition and very clean. It’s spacious, but we’re the only ones there.
First day full of promise!
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
A little sneak peek?
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
The karst site:
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
Several magnificent collective granaries have been beautifully restored. The warm colors of the stone capture the light wonderfully. It’s stunning!
