Bonjour,
Je serai en Turquie fin Avril et je compte traverser tout le pays en stop et je me demande si c'est rationnel de visiter les régions du Sud-Est notamment DiyarBakir, Mardin, Urfa et les villes proches des frontières syriennes début Juin et de les traverser en auto-stop ? Surtout avec cette conjoncture actuelle, ou le gouvernement massacre les kurdes et le conflits politiques ?
Des avis svp ? j'aurai juste besoin de quelques avis pour être rassuré.
bonjour,
il est possible de visiter ces régions. Il faut probablement mieux éviter la route qui suit la frontière avec la Syrie (mais on ne vous laissera pas passer au mieux).
la notion de "stop" reste pour moi un mystère.... en particulier dans un pays où cette pratique existe depuis longtemps mais où chacun paye le prix qu'aurait couté un dolmus pour la même course. Sachant que les turcs (ou les kurdes) ne demanderons rien au touriste de passage.
pour information, le prix des carburants est supérieur au prix payé en France... mais les salaires un peu (beaucoup) plus bas.
En gros : il n'y aura pas de pb pour faire de Gaziantep à Van via la route qui passe à S urfa, Dyarbakir.... Mardin est accessible dans la journée via ces 2 villes. Le bus est la solution la plus adaptée pour s'y rendre.
Je suis actuellement en Turquie que je traverse en stop sur ma route vers l'Iran. Avant le départ j'avais déjà prévu d'eviter le Sud Est. En particulier les zones frontalières avec la Syrie qui sont formellment déconseillées. Gaziantep est par exemple une ville escale pour ceux qui veulent se rendre en Syrie aujourd'hui.
Bonjour,
Qui suit un peu l'actualité n'aurait pas l'idée de faire du tourisme dans les zones plus spécifiquement kurdes de Turquie. En ce moment une partie des villes sont sous couvre-feu et attaquées avec des tanks à l'arme lourde par l'armée et la police spéciale mieux équipée que l'armée par Erdogan, sans compter les milices intégristes. Il y a des centaines de morts (que les familles n'ont pas le droit de récupérer et enterrer) et par exemple tout le magnifique centre historique de Diyarbakir a semble-t-il été à peu près complètement détruit (Et il continue a être bombardé et interdit d'accès aux secours). Ce qui ne veut pas dire que le reste de la Turquie est très sûr en ce moment (attentats récents à Ankara et Istambul). Mais rien à voir avec les régions kurdes et quel est l'endroit touristique où l'on est en absolue sécurité en ce moment !
par exemple tout le magnifique centre historique de Diyarbakir a semble-t-il été à peu près complètement détruit (Et il continue a être bombardé et interdit d'accès aux secours
Si c'est vrai c'est un drame absolu (pour les gens bien sûr, mais aussi pour la ville en elle-même). Mais bon, on détourne les yeux et on fait semblant de ne rien voir.
Il est tout à fait possible de voyager dans la région kurde en ce moment, mais il faut savoir où l'on met les pieds et prendre des précautions. C'est bien un génocide qui est en cours, à la fois "physique", culturel et psychologique.
Parler un peu turc me semble être le minimum.
Mon point de vue est le suivant : je ne pourrais pour ma part pas m'y rendre en "simple touriste" qui veut voir du pays. Par contre, si tu as envie d'en savoir plus sur ce qui se passe là-bas, discuter avec les gens, etc... alors pourquoi pas. Les Kurdes sont désespérés que personne ne sache ce qui se passe, et ils t'accueillerons les bras ouverts si tu fais preuve d'une curiosité sincère.
Cette guerre est étrange, certaines villes sont sous le feu de bombardements, d'autres continuent comme si de rien n'était, donc toute la région kurde n'est pas sous les bombardements. Selon les dernières nouvelles que j'ai lues, les villes suivantes ont été bombardées : Yuksekova, Nusaybin, Cizre (certains quartiers entièrement détruits), le centre-ville de Amed (diyarbakir en kurde).
Sache qu'en stop, si tu passes des checks-points tu subiras certainement des interrogatoires par le MIT (renseignements généraux), les flics ou l'armée. Cela a été mon cas par trois fois lors de mes derniers voyages en stop dans la région, et c'était avant que ce nouvel épisode de génocide démarre, et que la guerre entre PKK et armée soit relancée. Sache qu'ils peuvent te prendre pour un journaliste si tu as un appareil photo et que tu vas dans des endroits craignos (par exemple si tu essaies d'entrer dans Sur, le centre-ville de Diyarbakir).
Mon conseil : si tu sais pourquoi tu y vas, que tu fais l'effort d'apprendre un peu le turc avant de partir, et que ton but est autre chose que de voir des beaux paysages et des monuments historiques, alors je pense que cela peut être la base à de très belles rencontres, et peut-être que cela te donnera envie de pousser plus loin ta curiosité sur le mouvement politique kurde qui est d'une extrême richesse.
Un ami m'a dit: Le monde serait meilleur si chacun-e regardait dans l'assiette de l'autre et y rajoutait ce qu'il y manque
Merci pour votre riche retour.
Justement ce qui m’intéresse le plus c'est le conflit kurde, cette extermination admise et la répression turque. Je serai là bas pour essayer de voir, comprendre, rencontrer des activistes politiques et comment se comportent-ils face à ce régime répressif et autoritaire turc.
Peut être que mon voyage ne serait pas ciblé et spécifique puisque ca serait juste une vision du haut, et je compte visiter les grandes villes telles Van, DiyarBakir et SanliUrfa. Je n'oserai pas aller à Cizre ou la région HassanKeyf... Mais j'aimerai prendre quelques photos, vidéos voir même un reportage, mais je sais pas si c'est possible.
Alors n'hésite pas :) Tu peux te rendre d'abord dans une des premières villes du kurdistan (c'est facile à savoir, c'est quand les check-points commencent :D ), puis te laisser porter au gré des rencontres. On peut aussi continuer par messagerie privée si tu as d'autres questions.
Tu peux aussi commencer par Istanbul, de très nombreux Kurdes y vivent, tu peux te faire héberger par couchsurfing par exemple. Ils pourront te raconter leur situation et t'en dire un peu plus car souvent ils ont de la famille au pays (sud-est). La situation est tendue à Istanbul aussi car les militants kurdes et de gauche en général se font persécuter ces dernières années, avec une accélération particulière depuis l'été dernier.
Un ami m'a dit: Le monde serait meilleur si chacun-e regardait dans l'assiette de l'autre et y rajoutait ce qu'il y manque
Je tempèrerais un petit peu les propos de Montagne666. Effectivement il est encore possible d'aller dans le sud-est aujourd'hui, mais il faut savoir que c'est très difficile d'accès, surtout en tant qu'étranger et surtout si tu ne te déplaces pas en bus. Tu te feras contrôler tous les 20km par l'armée turque, qui vérifieront ton appareil photo et te poseront un tas de question. De plus, en essayant de contacter des militants Kurdes tu te mettras en danger (et eux aussi par la même occasion). Le gouvernement et l'armée sont sur les dents en ce moment, ça me semble donc une très mauvaise idée d'y aller maintenant sans parler Turc ou Kurde et sans connaitre la région. Certes si tu te limites aux grandes villes tu réduits le risque, mais sache que dans la plupart de ces villes il y a des affrontements chaque soir et que la situation peut rapidement dégénérer.
J'avoue ne pas trop comprendre le principe de vouloir visiter une région en guerre sans parler la langue des habitants, tu ne pourras pas parler à grand monde (peu de locuteur en anglais dans le coin) et tu vas passer ton temps à devoir négocier avec l'armée turque pour le moindre déplacement entre deux villes (et les soldats ne parleront sûrement pas anglais non plus, évidemment)
Oui, entièrement d'accord sur le fait d'apprendre les bases du turc (ou du kurde) avant de partir. Par contre, il y a des villes moins risquées que d'autres, et les affrontements n'ont jamais complètement cessé dans le sud-est... c'est largement pire en ce moment que les dernières années, d'où mon conseil d'y aller progressivement et de demander l'avis des gens sur place au fur et à mesure.
Mais oui tu as raison sur la langue et donc j'insiste une dernière fois : sans parler ni kurde ni turc c'est pas terrible. Pour ce qui est des militaires, d'expérience, il vaut mieux au contraire feindre de ne pas parler turc (et encore moins kurde !), on est moins suspect que si on le parle, et ils ont moins d'accroche pour poser des questions. Si on parle la langue ils s'imaginent assez facilement qu'on est de la diaspora kurde et qu'on rejoint la guerilla.
Un ami m'a dit: Le monde serait meilleur si chacun-e regardait dans l'assiette de l'autre et y rajoutait ce qu'il y manque
Je te rejoins sur ton questionnement pour le déplacement en stop. Personnellement je vais rester dans le nord-est pour rejoindre la frontière iranienne, en essayant le plus possible d'éviter les zones de conflits. Est ce que le nord-est est aussi touche que le sud-est ou non ?
Tout dépend de ce que vous entendez par Nord-Est. Toute la région de la mer noire (de Samsun à la Géorgie) n'est pas touchée par le conflit. Pareil pour la région d'Erzurum et Kars. Pour le reste ça dépend vraiment des endroits, mais en gros je dirais qu'il faut pas aller plus au sud qu'Erzincan et Erzurum. Pour rejoindre l'Iran il vous faudra passer par Igdir ou Agri où il faudra être plus prudent que dans les autres endroits que vous traverserez. Evitez la région de Van qui peut être assez tendue.
Donnez nous donc votre itinéraire pour avoir une réponse plus précise!
je nes pas encore d'itinéraire precis, ça sera fluctuant en fonction des rencontres et de la situation. Mais pour l'instant je compte prendre mon visa pour l'Iran à Erzurum, et de la me diriger tranquillement vers le poste frontière de Bazagan. Et si comme tu le dis la région de Vans et à éviter je vais m'abstenir de descendre plus au Sud.
Tu sais si il y a des risques de fermeture de frontière ou non ?
Moi j'ai préféré de passer par Trabzon, prendre un vol avec Pegasus jusqu'à Teheran et demande un visa à l'arrivé. Le retour serait à travers Bazargan, Dogubayazit, Van et je me dirigerai vers le sud. D'après les informations disponibles, les frontières ne se ferment pas, mais de temps à autre ils peuvent changer le fonctionnement sans préavis, du coip il faudra se référer à la situation, et voir avec le consulat à Erzurum.
Aucune idée pour le poste frontière, je n'ai jamais mis les pieds en Iran. Pour Van le niveau de tension n'est certainement pas aussi élevé que plus au sud (aucune ville sous couvre feu dans la prefecture de Van il me semble) mais il vous faudra quand même être plus prudent qu'à Erzurum par exemple. C'est faisable mais en effet je pense qu'il faut s'abstenir d'aller plus au sud.
Attention quand même à Van. J'ai visité cette ville en 2012, quand tout était calme dans la région, et j'ai le souvenir d'une rue du centre-ville encerclée de policiers et de militaires, avec des contrôles d'accès partout, pour une simple célébration militaire turque. Je n'imagine même pas la même célébration cette année ! C'est dans ce même coin, en descendant vers un château kurde un peu plus au sud, que des gens "normaux" m'ont ouvertement expliqué qu'ils soutenaient le PKK. C'est la seule fois que j'ai entendu ça si clairement en Turquie. Je ne sais pas ce qu'il se passe à Van depuis plusieurs mois, mais ça peut être un foyer de tension. Dommage car il y a de jolies choses à voir dans le coin : la citadelle de Van, ce fameux château kurde et une magnifique église arménienne sur l'île d'Akhdamar.
Parigino : il n'y a absolument rien de surprenant à ce que des habitants de la région kurde disent soutenir le PKK. De leur point de vue, le PKK est un mouvement de résistance, pas un groupe terroriste. Le pkk ne peut être dissocié du peuple kurde. IL y a bien sûr parmi les kurdes des personnes qui sont contre le pkk, mais le pkk est ancré dans bien des familles, ce n'est pas une organisation extérieure à la société comme pourraient l'être d'autres groupes terroristes en turquie.
Ce qui est dangereux au kurdistan, ce sont les militaires et la police turque, beaucoup moins la guerilla ou les révolutionnaires kurdes.
Un ami m'a dit: Le monde serait meilleur si chacun-e regardait dans l'assiette de l'autre et y rajoutait ce qu'il y manque
Je prévois de partir d'Alsace cet été en stop et en solo vers la Turquie en passant par l'Italie et la Grèce à l'aller et via les Balkans au retour. Je pense…
Europe de l'Ouest › Autriche / Turquie · 3 replies
J'aimerais faire avec ma copine le trajet istambul-autriche en stop. Les pays comme la bulgarie, la roumanie et la hongrie m'inquietent un peu. Qqn y a deja…
Dans le cadre d'un voyage en stop / à pied prévu l'an prochain, je compte traverser la Turquie d'est en ouest en auto-stop et à pied (en utilisant également…
Bien le bonjour! Alors voilà, j'ai 20 ans, et j'aimerais aller en Inde cet hiver, mais le chemin étant tout aussi important que la destination pour moi, ça…
Hi there,
After booking an Airbnb last January for this summer’s vacation in Sarajevo... My "host" canceled our reservation without any reason—this has never happened to me before.
Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking...
So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.
I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet.
But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!
And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!
Hi, I’m going to Turkey for 3 weeks. I’ve heard that you can’t book through Booking.com once you’re there and that everything has to be reserved in advance. Is it true that Booking.com doesn’t work in Turkey? Thanks to anyone who’s already been or is there—if it’s true, how do you handle bookings?
I’d love to get your opinions and advice on a destination.
It’s actually for my 19-year-old son who wants to go to Greece with his cousin, who’s the same age.
They’re looking at leaving on October 24th for 7 to 10 days.
For their trip, they want gorgeous beaches where they can swim, beautiful typical villages and historic cities, stunning landscapes, but also lively spots for their nights out. In short, they’re not just going there to laze around—they want to make the most of it...
But here’s the thing: will the weather be too iffy at that time, especially for swimming?
Also, would Crete be the best choice for what they’re looking for?
Then, a travel agent suggested Tenerife instead because of the weather at that time of year—he said the climate there is the same all year round. But will they find landscapes and beaches as beautiful as in Crete?
Hello!
I’m planning a trip to Greece in May or June 2027. We’re independent travelers.
We’ll rent a car after our stay in Athens and book accommodations through Booking or similar sites.
What do you think of this itinerary? We’re taking our time (beach and swimming if the weather allows in May—is the water too cold?)
Athens, 3 days
Nafplio, 3 days (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Archaia)
Mystras, 2 days or Monemvasia, 2 days (Laconia peninsula)?? Dilemma between the two
Return trip from the Peloponnese via the Rio-Antirrio bridge
Nafpaktos, 1 night
Arachova, 2 days (Delphi, Osios Loukas Monastery)
Return to Athens and departure
Is it crowded in May or June for visits to archaeological sites?
Thanks for your suggestions or corrections!
Hi there,
Our first trip to Greece as a couple. We're planning to spend 7 days in Greece from August 30th to September 5th. We'll reserve 2 days for Athens at the end of the trip. For the remaining 5 days, we want to visit an island—any recommendations? Thanks for your tips and details, we really appreciate it.
Hi,
What tips can you give me for dealing with a car rental scam attempt in Lithuania?
In our case, it’s the Avis-Budget agency in Vilnius trying to scam us.
We rented a car at Vilnius Airport for 2 weeks on July 28, 2019, to return it in Tallinn on August 11.
We brought it back on August 11 at the airport, in perfect condition, and with a full tank at the gas station right by Tallinn Airport.
On the parking lot, the receptionist’s booth was closed. So we had to leave the car in the lot and go to the counter inside the airport. The person at the counter told us their colleague had gone for lunch!
But they refused to come out and do the inspection with us because they were alone at the counter.
They told us we could leave and that everything was fine!!!!
Two days later, we got an email from Avis-Budget with two invoices saying the car was damaged—scratched on both sides—and charging us for a full tank of gas. That’s two bills totaling 800 €!!!! Coincidentally, the deposit was 900 €!
It’s clear this isn’t over!!
Have any of you been through the same nightmare? How did you handle it?
Thanks in advance!
I’m spending 2 weeks in Crete in September and will need a rental car.
I usually go with Europcar, but comparing their offer to what Aegean Rentals has, I see Europcar is charging no less than 400 € more for the same car and similar insurance!
I’d love to hear if others have experience with Aegean Rentals, and if so, whether it was a good one?
Hi,
We’re heading to Greece in early October and will be staying in Kineta, north of the Saronic Gulf, and renting a car.
Is it feasible to visit Acrocorinth, Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidaurus in a single day?
Thanks for your recommendations!
Hi there!
I’m sharing our itinerary for May/June 2027—23 days. This is our first time in Greece, so we’re starting with the must-see spots. We’re planning another trip later to explore the north, Thessaloniki, Macedonia, and some islands.
- Athens, 4 nights
- Corinth area, 2 nights (Heraion of Perachora, Canal, Acrocorinth)
- Nafplio, 3 nights (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Methana peninsula)
- Gefira, 2 nights (Monemvasia)
- Areopoli, 2 nights (Mani). Maybe add an extra night and stay on the peninsula??? Based on my calculations, the Mani loop is about 100 km—doable in a day, but it’d be a quick trip.
- Sparta or Pikoulianika, 2 nights (Mystras)
- Dimitsana, 2 nights (Lousios Gorge, monasteries)
- Olympia, 2 nights (via Lagkadia?)
- Delphi or Arachova, 3 nights (via the west coast, Galaxidi bridge) (Delphi, Hosios Loukas Monastery)
- And back to Athens.
This is just a rough draft for now. We’re planning to stay in hotels or book through Booking.com. What do you think? Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!
Over the past twenty-five years, I’ve traveled the roads between France and Moldova a good ten times, sometimes via Central Europe, other times via the Balkans.
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours.
Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours.
This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus.
Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:
In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth.
In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well.
Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions!
Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
Hi everyone,
We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Crete between mid-August and early September, renting a car, quickly exploring a few spots in the east, and focusing on the west, southwest, and south.
I’m worried about the heavy tourist crowds. Is it really more noticeable than elsewhere in Greece? Is there a way to avoid the crowds without missing out on the iconic places, which I imagine are stunning in Crete? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences!
Hi,
I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina?
Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city.
I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint
Visit the Baroque gardens
St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit
National Theatre
Discover the Cumil statues
Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie
Michael’s Gate
Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna
Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid
Head down to the Blue Church
Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge
There you go—10 km and a packed day!
What do you think?
Hi there,
we’re heading to Crete from May 8th to 15th, staying at a hotel in Agia Pelagia, 20 km from Heraklion, on half-board, so we’ll be back every evening. What daily itinerary would you recommend? We love hiking and discovering local cultures...
Thanks in advance!!
Hello,
We’re heading to Prague with so much excitement from June 10th to 20th. I’ve got three main questions for those who live there or have visited:
- What are your thoughts on what to pack clothing-wise? What’s the weather usually like at this time of year? We’re a bit sensitive to the cold—we live way down in southern Andalusia and are used to the *calor* 😎... Should we pack rain gear? Are we likely to get a lot of rain (which we’re dreading a little, but we couldn’t choose other dates)?
- I’ve seen there are "passes" for various attractions, museums, and sites, including one that’s valid for 10 days but costs a whopping 160 € per person—that’s an average of 16 € per day. Do you think it’s really worth it? We won’t be spending our days rushing between every indoor site; we also love wandering the streets and discovering things a bit "at random." If we do two paid visits a day, that’ll probably be the max... Can we make it worth the cost with that? Of course, we want to visit the castle and take a boat trip as a minimum. Are the sites included in these passes iconic, or are they more "minor" attractions? Does having the pass help us skip long lines?
- Finally, a question about communication: I speak French, obviously, plus Spanish and English fluently, but very little German (haven’t practiced in ages), and no Russian or Czech at all. My husband knows a few words of Russian, but it’s "Cuban" Russian—about the same level as my current German 🙂 !! Can we still get by without too much trouble? We don’t want to spend 10 days not saying a word to anyone and communicating only with gestures!!
Thanks for your valuable tips and opinions.
Hi there!
We’re heading to Crete (Heraklion) as a couple and I’d like to rent a car.
1) Do we need an international driver’s permit?
2) Are rentals super expensive?
Thanks everyone!
I’d like to know how much a meal costs on average in zloty in Poland (Warsaw, Kraków, Częstochowa, Wadowice), and also the price of souvenirs like postcards and magnets—so I don’t end up with too many zlotys left after my 5-day trip to Poland?